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so i have an fx 8120, i just tried to oc it yesterday and i am have issues with heat (cpu goes to mid 60's mid 70's). i am trying to oc to 4.3, my vcore is 1.33, and cpunb is 1.3, i have an h70 corsair. i think i might need something stronger than the h70? the h100 is really long and i am not sure where i would put it in my haf x case (full size), i see some people using the antec 920; is that better?
thanks.
No, the Antec Kuhler 920 is the same thing as the H70 with rubber tubing and different fans...so is the kit AMD sends out in the water cooled version, it is exactly the same with different fans and a few somewhat useless "features".
CPU_NB is a huge source of heat. Why 1.3v? 1.2v will be a lot cooler and most CPUs can run about 2400 @ 1.2v.
I know for one that the all-in-one water solutions aren't really enough to keep BD cool. @ 4.6 GHz with 2.5 GHz CPU_NB at 1.41 / 1.27v on a Corsair H70, my temps shot up to 76c in no time...
make sure you use aftermarket thermal paste and its tighten down good...also make sure yur push/pull fan setup is pulling air in from back(outside)
mine gets super hot as well try to keep it under ~75C (cpu temp not core temp)
also your cpu/nb voltage seems kinda high try 1.225- 1.25v and only shoot for ~2500mhz
yeah thanks, but i still get the same issue as beepbeep2,at 4.6 the cpu gets to 75 - 80c. i have learned that a h100 does not really fair much better (not for the price anyways), so i have decided to just build a custom water solution. ppl using the xspc rs360 kit with bd, there load temps are 40c at 4.8! i also learned the the fluid inside water cooling systems evaporates over time, maybe the h70 has this same issue?.
It's not really an issue, just the nature of the CPUs...you are very safe up to about 75c, IMHO however I wouldn't push 80c on an overclock I wanted to use.Quote:
yeah thanks, but i still get the same issue as beepbeep2,at 4.6 the cpu gets to 75 - 80c.
H100 is probably about 5c better overall...custom water is the way to go though.Quote:
i have learned that a h100 does not really fair much better (not for the price anyways), so i have decided to just build a custom water solution.
Those people need to be checked if they are empty upstairs.Quote:
40c at 4.8!
Maybe 75c @ 4.8 or 40c at 2.4...
It doesn't evaporate over time...these are closed loops. There is nowhere for the water to escape...otherwise you would get leaks.Quote:
i also learned the the fluid inside water cooling systems evaporates over time, maybe the h70 has this same issue?.
The RS360 kit is a bad kit to get...the pump is very weak and probably not very reliable...you will want to set aside at least $225 and 10 hours of work to get a good WC setup up and running.
Realistic gains:
on H70 I can't hold my 4.6 GHz/2.5 GHz OC at 1.41v / 1.27v because peak temperature is 78c
on custom water (see sig) I can do ~4.75/2.5 @ 1.46v / 1.27v and peak temperature is about 75c. At 4.6, temperature is about 68c load.
Cooling loop being twice the price...
Only tip I have to keep temps down, is to keep cpunb v at stock or lower, and push core speed as far as possible.
(And yea, 40C running 4.8ghz is pure fantasy even with over sized loops)
How is your overall case airflow in and out? Can make a huge dif with cpu cooling. Make sure you have as much exhaust as you have intake if not a bit more.
You can buy all that stuff used and you can save alot of money.
just buy a new pump like mcp 655 an get a used rad like rx 360 and a micro res.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeepBeep2
well the pump you have has less lph than this one, so it cant be that bad. it took me out 10hrs lol, so you were spot on. besides the time it takes; it is rather simple to setup.
yeah that was a bit off it seems...i think they were talking about core temps, and used that for cpu temps. with the rasa kit at 4.3; my temps are about 45 max 1.35vcore.Quote:
Originally Posted by wez
yeah air flow is not a problem...lol BD is with its heat generating abilities.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jethro
Quote:
Originally Posted by bynext
you are probably right, but this is my first custom setup, so i am glad i got the kit, helped me understand a lot.
now my only problem is something called a quick disconnect. none of the ones available seems to fit my tubes 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD?
Hmm my pump is rated 800lph, and it's about equal in real performance to a DDC 3.2.Quote:
Originally Posted by god_43
A long time ago when I was picking parts I believe was told that the 750 lph submersed pump with the XSPC kit was not so good, it's really about a 600 lph pump with low head pressure.
Your temps seem okay I suppose.
The most popular quick disconnects are made by koolance, either VL3N or VL4N, you will have to buy different tubing and fittings if you want to use any. I wouldn't recommend it anyway with your pump, QDs can be restrictive.
The only thing I can recommend 7/16" ID tubing for is to put it over 1/2 inch barbs without clamps, but that can be kind of dangerous.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeepBeep2
huh i must have been looking at the wrong jigway then. yeah thats what the koolance rep told me when i emailed them to ask about this. is my tubing really obscure or something? what is the common size for tubing?
Most guys run 3/8 5/8, some run 1/2 3/4 but that is a bit big diameter IMO.
I run 7/16 5/8 over 1/2 barbs without any clamps, it seems to work okay but you never know what can happen. I've heard horror stories of guys having the tube pop off the barb while the PC was running...
If you have the room the 1/2 ID tygon is king flow wise. It resist kinking like no other as well.
Tygon tubing: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=2729
If i was gonna try and cool a BD i would get no less then a rad such as this: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/53...?tl=g30c95s161 <<notice how thick it is.
If you can mount the rad outside the case (tastefully of course) it goes a long way.
I even have 2 vid cards on just a feser 240 and my cpu never goes over 50c under heavy gaming. The BD can be tamed im sure of it, especially in its own loop! I would buy one but there isnt much point for me. I am however upgrading mobo/vid and ram this weekend so i will have a FX capable setup just waiting for PD.
Have you Lapped the BD chip ?
Another tygon tubing link with to many to choose...
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g30/...g_-_Tygon.html
(price is better at the performance-pcs tho :))
...tygon isn't as popular as it used to be, and the difference in flow between 3/8" and 1/2" is negligable, temp difference immeasurable.
Tygon has had issues with plasticizer leeching in the past too.
I would also thumbs up the swifty 655 suggestion. Been my best pump for sure.
since my super-silent loop wasnt enough to cool 4.5 ghz @ 1,45v and i got crashes at ~75c if i didnt ramp up my fans (which i wont do for 24/7), i switched back to using turbo 4.55, 4.2 mid turbo and 3.6 normal (ocing via baseclock and multi adjustments). This way in games i have same performance as before, turbo works nice on the cores that are near 100% load if settings are made correctly. Its not the random clocking u expect when u see prime runs with apm and turbo on, it does very well.
At the same time, PWM are 20-30c cooler (~ 90c without active cooling when doing prime or linx @ 4.5 all cores) and cpu wont go above 50c. If not benching, this works quite well...