:shocked:Eww really? Are you referring to the rad? Can anyone verify this? If this is the case I've got no problem blasting the rad and dropping it off with Jacob to get it powder coated.Quote:
Originally Posted by jedihobbit
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:shocked:Eww really? Are you referring to the rad? Can anyone verify this? If this is the case I've got no problem blasting the rad and dropping it off with Jacob to get it powder coated.Quote:
Originally Posted by jedihobbit
So, I take it that Goof Off works to remove company painted logos from the case? My goo-be-gone didn't...
Don't know about that, but don't soak plastic parts in it for extended periods of time or it turns to goop. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Antioch
Scgt1, most rads are painted with a thin coat anyway, you rarely find a "consumer" radiator that still has its natural copper look. don't be too worried about that :D
you know that some rubber mounts will liquify in strong detergent? A few years back one of the juniors at maccas shoved the grill "squeegee" (like what you use on windows) in the wash up sink and left it to soak for a few hours. the only thing left was the handle haha.
ROCK ON!!! I spent several hours doing the rad. Since its two tone on two different locations there was a ton of prep work between coats on that sucker and to think I don't really plan on keeping it because of the bent fins. :( I don't want to keep anything that is messed up in this build in the long run. I plan on just using it temporarily.Quote:
Originally Posted by individual
I would like to hone my abilities to where I may gain potential sponsors like so many others here.
Wheres the love for the poor guys at?????:p:
:up: Good to hear about the paint!! Knew factories painted rads, just thought that it was something "special".
What is the material that you trying to remove the logo from? scgt1 hit the nail on the head, if the "solvent" is strong enough to remove the logo it is strong enough to remove the base paint and deform polymers. Goo-gone is primaily for removing adhesives and paint that is latex based that has gotten onto a set base paint. Goof Off again is primarily to remove latex over set paint.....they just don't bother to mention that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Antioch
I would start a thread so as to get a better viewing and possibally an answer. In the thread include a pic so we can see what is going on. Sadly the last time I did something like that I "steel wooled" the item off and then "feather painted back the base color over the scratched off. Should of used 600 - 1000 grit wet/dry instead! :(
waterjet = ftw
progressing nicely! cant wait to see more!
Picked up supplies today for a light box. Considering we have a trip to take mid April to New Orleans for her companies convention. Going off what was spent last year $1200 after xmas taking any extra funds I had. I'll be looking at putting back all my extra cash from here until then which is about $200 each check. Since I'm only paid twice a month its going to take that long to get the money for the trip unfortunatly. So as per anything new coming to the thread or the build being completed before May....
Its pretty much on hold for any new purchases which will include:
I7 920
white tubing
Matte Black BP Compression fittings
New tube res
Possible 2nd loop for GPU
If above is the case then
Another tube res
Dual ATI HD5870
or
ATI 5970
or
Something out of the NVIDIA 300 series (IF THEY EVER PULL THEIR HEADS OUTA THEIR ASSES) I've always used NVIDIA never once have I used a ATI card.
So with the amount of the above I unfortunatly have to put PSP on hold for the time being. This really sucks. I haven't played a pc game since June 09. :-(
So any more updates for the next 4 months will only be of what I already own and anything done to those items along with Light box photos.
I'm waiting to see how the nVidia 300-series looks too. As long as they aren't power-hungry space heaters I think we'll be in good shape.
Yea Space heaters no lie. My last game rig that I intended to part to build this one(Most of the sale money ended up going to bills. Thats why my internet pc was parted also so I'm stuck with a crappy 2 ghz amd x2 compaq Presario) had dual EVGA 9800 GTX KO SC cards. After about 5 minutes of running the temp in the office went up 3*. So that is the reason I haven't played a pc game since spring. :-(Quote:
Originally Posted by Antioch
#1 Been there more often than I would like to remember!Quote:
Originally Posted by scgt1
#2 Nothing wrong with ATI right now as I think they've the latest and good too! I have used both and each has had their advantages, the only reason I'm currently runing strictly nvidia is their drivers (cuda) are the best for folding. :yepp:
Look forward to the light box details for sure! :up:
So I setup the lightbox.
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...t/IMG_2444.jpg
Still toying around with light placement. I shot about 15 photos with different settings and angles with the Canon. Only 3 or so came out not terribly blurry. Not used to shooting intrecit (sp) closeup shots. I'll be taking alot of shots of parts again in the light box including some parts I haven't taken pictures of yet. Hopefully this will keep me busy for a couple months until I can start buying parts again. Sigh..........
Ok I was going to go to bed since its after 1am but..................
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...t/IMG_2451.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...t/IMG_2454.jpg
Forgot my little guy! :-(
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...t/IMG_2456.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...t/IMG_2457.jpg
$250 Shipped for these beauties!!!
Talk about a dual purpose post!! :rofl: :ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by scgt1
Nice work on the shots, how about a pic of the lightbox??? If things have slowed here start a thread on building that. Been thinking about building one myself as the wife and I have a lot of collectables we need to shoot. :up:
Catching up on my work log reading - boy, you've had lots of issues with the build - but glad to see you are persistent. (Have to admit, I'm one of those who doesn't click photo links, so your work on redoing all the images helped a lot). I do think it would help if you considered putting fewer photos in on a given subject. For example - you can display the nice Bloodrage mobo with a few nice photos, and get more impact than including a large number of photos that don't really show new info.
I assume your comment "$250 Shipped for these beauties" refers to how much you paid for them - and you're not using your worklog to advertise something you are selling?
If your referencing the build and my pawnage on a steal for a deal they you betcha. Cause they sure aren't for sale. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by jedihobbit
Ok well since I got to looking at some of the parts closer since I have so much time on my hands now. PSP will be getting a bunch more parts. I was going to get a tube res and mount it to the mobo tray, but after looking at my pump which was told it was a mcp 355 with a DDCT-01 top it appears to actually be a Laing DDC-2TPMP which I dunno wtf that is. Its also manufactured in 07/06. I dunno about you all, but thats a bit old to use not knowing the history of it. Especially coming from the guy that screwed me over on this whole deal anyway.
I mean maybe pumps last forever maybe they don't I would prefer to take the safe route and just go new. The pump top is scratched up pretty bad so I would like to just replace the pump and get a new XSPC res top. Which would nul the tube res. Unless I could utilize a 250ml tube res to feed a dual loop of 2 mcp 355's w/ XSPC res tops???? Anyone have any input on this?
I would like to utilize the fill port at the top of the case. So My thoughts would be:
Fill port on top of the case to 250ml tube res
tube res to 2 XSPC res tops (at the fill ports)
Of course the res tops feeding the pumps
the return would be back to the res tops from rad with a Y fitting I presume.
Any thoughts, opinions, gripes, or complains?
Here is a tentative list of WC gear:
[IMG]http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...gPartsList.jpg[/IMG]
I have the new style cpu block on the list because I still don't know if I want to use the one that I got out of this deal. :-( For $80 bucks though thats a big chunk on the total.
Of course the first total column would come first and some of the fittings might change amount wise. Without having the case here to install parts to see how everything will fit its hard to say what I will need compression wise. The 2nd loop will come after I lock down some gpus. I will be using an aircooled 8800GTX 320mb for the hold over until ATI drops prices or NVIDIA pulls their heads outa their ass's and drops the 300 series at our feet.
Same for me in regards to 8800GTX usage.
About your question though. I think it would be fine to use Y-adapters for the input/output to your res.
Great build! You'll love the GTs too, I'm very pleased with mine. :up:
It's sad to hear about your experiences with CoolerMaster, although I am not surprised. I got a Stacker 830 with a bad batch of standoffs, and it took two weeks and several calls to CoolerMaster to get them to send me new ones, even though it would have taken 5 mins to put 10 standoffs in an envelope, slap a sticker on it, and stick it in a mailbox. I'm never buying from them again.
This has got to be the best light box photo yet. Too bad they all don't come out like this. :-(
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...riveLocks1.jpg
I don't get how the corners keep coming out like they do though. Not enough light in those areas I assume. Will have to cut some more notches in the foam board for more light placement locations. I have 4 painters lights all aiming in the center on the object at hand so I don't know why some of the photo is still coming out funny. This whole light box thing is a complete different turn on taking photos so I have to learn the camera all over again.
Picked up some Krylon Fusion Plastic paint the other day just waiting on it to warm up some so I can have another go at the replacement buttons.
Will be heading out to at least take photos of the case if not pick it up tomorrow afternoon.
NOOOOOOO whyd you paint the outside black :( should have only painted the mechanisms inside it black! oh wait, did they ship them black? I may have missed something haha.
Are you talking about my above photo of the main part of the drive lock?Quote:
Originally Posted by individual
If so I painted them hammered steel black. Nothing in the build has the bright sheen black that they come stock as. The drive lock buttons (which I melted when I wasn't happy with how they turned out) will be red. The entire inside of the case will be red. So the main lock will counteract the inside color then the red buttons will counter the black locks. :0 I think it will be very appealing. I sure as hell hope so with the trouble I went through on these damn lock mechanisms.
Waiting on the weather to warm up (Located in north TX) so I can shoot the buttons. This time I will be using the paint designed for plastic with no prep involved though. Krylon Fusions. :up:
On another update.
My case isn't done at the powder coaters. I will update more on this once I actually have possesion of my damn case.
Utorris sorry man thought it was going to work out. Now I'm looking for another one.......
ALOT of pictures here. Nice work so far, keep it up!
Wish me luck. Pulled out the Fusion paint and heading to the garage for those drive lock buttons. Its finally warm enough to do something with it. Pics to follow as long as I don't screw them up. LOL
So it was finally a warmer day here in north Texas and as promised:
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...ckButtons1.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...ckButtons2.jpg
Next up assembly.......