Nucleoxic (800D, 120x7, 3D Vision Surround)
Hi, everyone! I'd like to invite you to share this journey with me.
The project has a couple of goals:
- to produce a durable case with a life expectancy of ~ 10 years (ie. power, cooling, and control capabilities),
- to assemble a powerful PC that can man-handle the current state-of-the-art for PC gaming (ie. latest titles, jacked, HD, 3D Vision Surround, etc.), and
- to deliver low sound levels (ie. will also be using this machine in a home recording studio), yet be able to drive components robustly.
My core approach will be:
- to use best practices and suppliers, and
- to work with fundamental, re-usable, and less price-or-technology-sensitive parts first (eg. case mods and cooling), followed by MB, CPU, RAM, SSD, and Video.
Near-term, specific objectives include:
- modding a Corsair 800D case to accept ThermoChill TA120.4 and TA120.3 rads (will need to extend an AX1200 PSU outside the case),
- implementing an Aquaero 5-based cooling control platform, and
... other fun junk-and-stuff that we'll hit along the way! :yepp:
Notes:
- Look for posts labelled "Work Unit - x." I will try to break down this project by major work units, providing a convenient way to reference related instructions, comments, and pictures.
- Oh, and I don't know everything, that's for sure! Please feel free to question my assumptions, challenge the design details, or just openly dialogue with me about the project. I'm here to learn, too!
Seatbelts fastened? OK, OK, settle down, that's probably overkill, but here we go nonetheless...
Picture Journal - Milestones
Following are hand-selected milestones as work progresses:
800D Bottom Radiator Mod Complete:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...pictureid=1362
More to follow...
Work Unit - Top 480 Radiator
Goal: Install a ThermoChill TA120.4 rad into the top of the 800D case
Components:
- Bitspower Custom Design Radguard 480 (black mesh)
- ThermoChill TA120.4 Radiator
Initial Approach:
- using a Dremel, cut an additional 120mm fan hole toward the front of the existing three fan holes.
* due to the irregular surface of this area of the case, this approach was modified (see Final Approach)
Final Approach:
- using a jig saw, Dremel, and a 480 rad template, cut a single rectangle that encompasses the entire 480 area, small enough to support the Bitspower Radguard, but large enough to permit the ThermoChill rad to mate directly to the Radguard (ie. no case metal between the rad and the radguard)
Note: fans will attach to the bottom of the radiator (ie. "pull" configuration)
Initial Approach (abandoned):
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...pictureid=1363
Cut Complete:
* ... and giving you a sneak peek of the bottom work
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...pictureid=1364
U-Channel Installed:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...pictureid=1366
Radguard Mock-up:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...pictureid=1367
Work Unit - Power Supply Extension
Goal: Shift power supply toward the rear, in order to create room for a ThermoChill TA120.3 rad
Components:
- Lian Li PSU Extension Bracket (PE-01)
- Corsair AX1200 Power Supply
Approach:
- using a Dremel, expand the existing power supply opening, to permit the PSU to shift toward the rear (ie. partially outside the case)
- using a Dremel, shorten the PSU support rails to align with end of AX1200 PSU
Here's what we're installing: a Corsair AX1200 with Lian Li PSU Extension:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...pictureid=1373
Factory Power Supply Mount:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...pictureid=1370
PSU U-Channel Curing:
* I sized the PSU opening to be exactly the right size, accounting for the u-channel (ie. no air gaps around the PSU... period!). So, I left the PSU inserted through the opening, while the u-channel adhesive cured (see Components post for details around BlackJack, the only u-channel adhesive worth a darn!).
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...pictureid=1371
PSU U-Channel Installed:
* Wow, this looks mangled in the photo (the touchup paint really stands out). This cut was more of a PITA than expected, because the fastener holes in the Lian Li PSU Extension are very close to the sides of the PSU opening: so much so that I decided to convert those holes to notches (you can see a little daylight in 2 places under the u-channel on each side). If I would have just Dremled the notches first (as opposed to trying to drill so close to the edge, I would not have marred the case on the left side [yes, I would still notch, even if I had a drill press]).
So, I will be using a backer bar (ie. short length of metal) to secure the Lian Li PSU Extension to the case, as opposed to just a bolt and washer, or so the theory goes (we'll see how that one works out).
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...pictureid=1368
PSU Rails Shortened:
* removed rivets, cut to length, swapped sides (ie. hiding cut ends against inside back of case), drilled new rivet holes and secured
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...pictureid=1375
New PSU Rail Rivets (viewed from bottom of case):
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...pictureid=1376
More to follow...
Work Unit - Mid-Plate Ventilation Upgrade
Goal: Improve air flow from bottom compartment to top compartment (ie. exhaust section)
Components:
- Gentle Typhoon AP-15 Fans (qty: 2)
Approach:
- apply a 240 template to the mid-plate (covering existing fan hole)
- using a Dremel, cut second fan hole
- line the opening with u-channel
- mount fans on top of mid-plate, exhausting upward (ie. pulling air out of the bottom section of the case and exhausting it into the top section of case, where exhaust ultimately exits case
More to come...
Work Unit - Bottom 360 Radiator
Goal: Install a ThermoChill TA120.3 rad into the bottom of the 800D case
Components:
- Bitspower Custom Design Radguard 360 (black mesh)
- ThermoChill TA120.3 Radiator
Approach:
- using a jig saw, Dremel, and a 360 rad template, cut an articulated (ie. with ears) radiator opening in the bottom of the case
- line the opening with u-channel
- mount 360 radiator stack in the following order: radguard on outside bottom fo case, the case ears, then rad on the inside bottom of case
Note: fans will attach to the top of the radiator (ie. "pull" configuration)
Rough Cuts Complete (jig saw):
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...pictureid=1379
Cut Complete (Dremel):
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...pictureid=1378
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...pictureid=1380
U-Channel Installed:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...pictureid=1381
Radiator Mock-up:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...pictureid=1382
PSU Clearance:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...pictureid=1383
More to follow...
A5 and MCP-35X pumps on the way!
*So* excited! Sidewinder *finally* (ahem, Shoggy) received more A5 Pro stock. I *immediately* ordered mine, plus the black faceplate, 3-way LED, flow meter, in-line temp sensor, IR remote, and waterblock.
In addition, I snagged two MCP-35X pumps plus an EK Dual V2 top.
Gary @ Sidewinder had it shipped within an hour or so of placing the order (you're *awesome*, Gary!). UPS sez my order has arrived in my home city, so unless the UPS terminal catches fire, I'll have everything tomorrow. :slobber:
Oh, happy day!
... And I thought that mounting pumps to a top would be e-a-s-y!
I've been busy working on the pump assembly. I purchased two MCP-35X pumps, an EK DDC Dual Top v2, and heatsinks (both pumps and heatsinks from Swiftech).
First, I closely examined the EK top, and removed a plastic burr or two. I then removed the stock tops from the pumps, and decided which way to mount the pumps to the EK top. Unfortunately, EK leaves absolutely *no* room (:mad:) between the pumps for cable management, so the best that I could do was to mount the pumps with the Swiftech labels facing outward (same side as the EK top's "out" port), with the power and PWM cables facing backward. I will be dyeing those cables black, for sure.
The biggest disappointment is the fact that the Swiftech heatsinks are larger than the MCP-35X pumps. So, you cannot mount the heatsinks to the pumps, when using the EK top (:mad:). Of course, that's why I have tools in my garage (although Swiftech could have pointed this out a little better on their site first).
So, I will need to remove some fairly thick heatsink material (hopefully in a fairly neat manner). Oh, and to make this *much* more complicated than it should be, one heatsink mounting hole in the pump bottom of each pump is a frickin' electron's thickness (:brick:) from the edge of the pump body, so I'll need to make more of a jig-saw-type-puzzle-piece cut, where the heatsinks will meet in the middle of the EK top.
* Hey, Swiftech! You should buy my new dual-heatsink design! :clap:
Finally, because I'm not entirely certain whether I'll mount the pump assembly horizontally on the mid-plane of the 800D or vertically in the back of a 5.25" bay, I still might need to remove more heatsink material, to keep from interfering with neighboring drive bays. So, I'm naturally leaning toward mounting the entire thing on the mid-plane, but that will require moving the fan holes (yes, I have already cut an additional 120mm hole beside the stock fan hole, plus two more 1" pass-through holes). So, now I think that I will make a custom plate for the mid-plane, to permit air to pass from the bottom to the body of the case (where it exits out the back), with a space for mounting the pump assembly.
Geesh...
Cutting Swiftech DDC Heatsinks
Cutting heatsinks to fit together on EK Dual DDC Top v2 (ie. like Swiftech *should* have made them!). :dammit:
It's amazing how well the heatsinks transmit the heat of my Dremel's cutting wheel to my hand. Frickin' hot!
Battery needs recharged. Boo. Wait, wait, wait...