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Look at my big typhoon Lapping
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make much of a difference in temps?
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looks good, not torture your opteron
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Damn.... nice job! I've lapped heatsinks but they never turned out that nice.
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I havent tested this typhoon yet... so i dont what is the temp variation...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew LB
Damn.... nice job! I've lapped heatsinks but they never turned out that nice.
Just needs polishing to make it like that sandpaper alone wouldnt do it
Was that a mistake in the levels used? 500grit is still pretty rough and possibly worse than the factory finish
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i used 240 320 360 400 and 500 grit... 320 looked like factory finish..
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Nice but your better use an hard support for lapping in state of wood . Best is marble work table
an example
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/6...origine6vc.jpg
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That surface wont even be flat as the wooden table aint, use a thick sheet of glass, check it with something totally staight like a razor blade or stanly knife blade and it will be either converse or concave.
To test paint a black marker all over the surface and run it over the sandpaper and see if any black ink remains in spots
500grit isnt a good finish most start out at 400 and work up to 1500 or even 2000 or even 2500, then apply polish with soft cloth before totally washing and drying.
I lapped in engineering but we used rough then smooth paste on a surface table and a ink called engineers blue, to check for high spots.
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@ humeyboy I'm french so i can't make a good traduction of what i want to said but you can be sure that a piece of marble will be flater and with less default than a sheet of glass or a wood table. And for best thermal performance NEVER any kind of shiny effect product...
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that is not true the better finished the base the better but not with polishing thing because that is just filling the surface with it you have to use rubbing compound or some alu solution to lap after the 2500grit
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Glass is easier and cheaper to obtain than marble, and if its at least 1/4" / 6mm thick it will be perfect.
Thats not true about artic silver5 it works fine on a mirror surface some other compounds prefer it little more rough.
Using polish does no harm as you totally wash the heatsink and dry it later (i wash in warm soapy water then run hot water tap on it very fast to totally clear it then i dry on top of a radiator or pop in oven for 10mins at 40-50C, there is no way any sandpaper grains or polish is left, also before fitting i give good wipe with lint free cloth with alcohol.
P.S Your trying to "teach your granny how to suck eggs", im 34 years old and have been a engineer 18years and i had to lap parts all the time, we used cutters/grinders then paste and if any paste was left on parts it was BOOOM to the engines, obv all parts were washed in a parts washer which was using very hot/detergant water (cleans and stops water rusting) but its that hot its dry as soon as you open door.
The parts were lapped GAS tight (valves in cyclinder heads 4 per head and 16 heads), thats far more than anyone here is going to do with a pc heatsink.
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Lapping = ? I'm asuming taking your heatsink out of the package and sanding down the connection and polishing it for a better contact ?
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wow how much horse power did u jus add to ur ttbt then?
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^ rofl. I like it.
@Kemble - yes, we are talking about finely sanding down the base of a heatsink to make it perfectly smooth for optimum contact with the CPU.
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@Humeyboy for the heatsink i don't need a perfect lapped and shiny surface. Just a better plan surface for better contact ;) I agee with you for the total cleanning of the surface after lapping. Using BELGOM ALU for example wich a use a lot to have shiny effect on Motorbike parts make an thermal barrier for heat transfert.
PS i dont want to teach to an engineer ;):toast:
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Damn that's nice :slobber:
I can't get such fine sandpaper here :(
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500 grit aint classed as fine, you can buy lapping kits, ok they are a bit of a rip off price wise, but some do include glass and all fine sheets (some will find it hard to buy anyhow thesedays like me, seems nobody repairs car bodys DIY now all done in bodyshops) and 1 of the kits includes artice ceramic.
http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/info_3719.html
http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/info_3714.html
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Can you report how much the temps drops ?
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I just did mine... sorry no pics.... I think I gained 1-2C after the lapping.. :)
NC™
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umm, polishing is bad idea. as it usually gets rid of the flatness acheived with lapping. and always do it on glass.
and only up to 500grit? id be suprised if your temps werent worse than before.
i always start at 400 and work up to 2000 grit. spending a good 15-20 minutes at each grit. doing it in a circular pattern.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeStSiDePLaYa
umm, polishing is bad idea. as it usually gets rid of the flatness acheived with lapping. and always do it on glass.
and only up to 500grit? id be suprised if your temps werent worse than before.
i always start at 400 and work up to 2000 grit. spending a good 15-20 minutes at each grit. doing it in a circular pattern.
I've used the same grades of sandpaper in the lapping i've done in the past. Usually by the time you get done with the 2000 grit wet sanding, its got a pretty nice shine. Not quite as much of a mirror as has been created here.
.... looking at that shiny surface, i'm almost tempted to re-polish my entire setup.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humeyboy
Wish I could get that in the netherlands :stick:
Quote:
Originally Posted by NightCrawler™
I just did mine... sorry no pics.... I think I gained 1-2C after the lapping.. :)
NC™
Where did you buy the fine sandpaper? You're from holland right? :fact:
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Polishing aint bad and wont remove flatness you just spent time on, the polish is like fine toothpaste, you would need rub it a 1year and renew polish 10000000x to remove enough metal, it just helps to buff out very small scratches caused by the sandpaper, you dont wear out your silver or brass items liek medals using silvo or brasso do you ? (im talking polish not the real abrasive metal remover).
Some claim circular motion aint ideal even I have mead a boob of it a trying that way but thats cause i did other wau 18years, I know we did it in 1 direction after we had swapped about direction (always longwards) to get flat, then only 1 way turning it around so your doing it from both ends in turn.
Lapping is one of the oldest finishes known to engineering and wasnt invented by some spotty geek 18year old pc wizz on some review site BTW.
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I laped circular in the last grit, as the techpowerup guide says... the base passes all the flatness tests, ruler, knife and the waterdrop... I cleaned really good the base with water after polishing
I got my sandpaper at homecenter (local store) they only had up to 500 grit...and polished with brasso..
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Thats some nice lapping:)
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Circular motion, forward/ backwards, side to side, I guess it doesnt really matter as long as your on a flat surface like glass and you're keeping the heat sink parallel to the surface right?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ăśbergeek
Wish I could get that in the netherlands :stick:
Where did you buy the fine sandpaper? You're from holland right? :fact:
I used 400 grit to flatten the base... you can get it at your local hardware store (Praxis, Karweij).
To get it all smooth I used Commandant rubbing compound (red #3) and cleaner (green #4)..
What I also did change was the amount of AC5 used and how I applied it... usually I cover the entire IHS but now I've limited myself to a dot in the middle and let the HSF pressure do it's work... not sure if it really works though or which one suits better..
NC™
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Nice job. :) I use a 1' x 1' pain of glass on top of a wood table. I use somthing like 300 grit for neglected, or lots of machine marked heatsinks. I then end up with about 1000 grit paper. After that I polish the rest to a mirror finish with brasso and paper towels. I do a final polish with a lint free towel.
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circular provides best flatness, if you just do it back and forth, then any little raises on the paper will be magnified because the same area is being rubbed over it again and again, and would create a valley.
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Untrue, from me engineering use and same for most sites that have guides for cpu heatsinks they say back and forth, a few say circular, but your removing more material every pass.
Anyhow i dont really give a damn, ive been lappy vitial engine parts gas tight longer than some the pups on the pc sites have been alive. :)
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Personally when I lap, I do circular in one orientation for 5 minutes, then rotate the block 90 degrees and do another 5 minutes, then rotate again and so forth I do this at each grit as I progress. It gives me an adequate base, need to pluck up the courage to lap the IHS at some point perhaps :) Not yet rich enough to try lapping the die :p
P.S Everyone knows that having a mirror finish on the base of your heatsink will reflect heat back onto the CPU
:p
^ joke btw ;)
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Yeah, Most CPU's HATE thier reflection. It gives them a complex :P
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I just got my Big Typhoon in today, I'm going to lap it over the weekend. I'll post my pics of my process when I finish.
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Nicely done lapping Detonator.cl :toast:
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I just lapped my Big Typhoon from ugly stock base going from sand paper ranges of 220 - 2000, then some toothpaste polish to get it close to mirror finish, I don't have any results to post, since im waiting on my new processor mobo and I got bored, but hey it looks nice :woot:
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also, another reason to avoid alot of metal polishers is that they contain alot of wax to protect the metal. which isnt a good conductor of heat at all.
and btw. core lapping isnt that hard, and provides nice temp drops. did mine a while back.
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West, Do you not think to totally wash heatsink in warm soapy water then rinse well and dry 100% using heat after using metal polish, that is the answer. :rolleyes:
