I might have the possibility to buy a used Mach II std.
So I have to ask if it worth or I should try to get a LS instead?
Mach II pro and cons?
Thanks :)
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I might have the possibility to buy a used Mach II std.
So I have to ask if it worth or I should try to get a LS instead?
Mach II pro and cons?
Thanks :)
MachIIGT:
Pros:
Quieter and colder than LS
Cons:
:banana::banana::banana::banana:ty controller & lame mounting system
;)
What, I cant even say :banana::banana::banana::banana:ty without bananas showing up?! LOL :eek:
placebo: Thanks :)
It's a Mach II std.
Do you mean the chillcontroller's :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:
Is it difficult to mount on CPU or what exactly do you mean?
man, it's Mach 2. not Match. the only match here is the match of the day...
The plain M2 just uses R134a. Get a M1. The price difference is a few hundred dollars for no difference in performance.
Once you're in the M2 price range though I belive a Chilly1 unit would make more sense though.
:eek: Mach II - my mistake.
I know very little about compressor cooling.
craig 588: I know a person, who can change gas to R404a for me and the Mach II is used for bout 3 years.
The LS would be better than the Mach II, but if you get a GT they ae pretty even, a regassed unit would be best of all probably.
G
pros: pretty silent
cons: mounting system (the worst ever seen)
I would definitely go for a vapochill LS instead - much better performance and it has one of the best mounting systems you can get. otherwise I would PM chilly1 and see what he could do
Yeah, I saw the Mach II pdf manual. Not the most elegant solution IMO. The sealstring leave a mess on the motherboard when changing CPU, no?Quote:
Originally Posted by SustaiN
Any link to mounting the CPU on a LS?
#all :Where to buy Vapochill LS in EU - for a good price?
Tbh, I really feel that the main idea of the sealstring is a good one. It does create a hermetic seal and really makes it impossible for any moisture to reach the cold spots.
The only downside I can see with it is that you end up playing with it, for hours, days and weeks on end.......... lol ;)
Oh and no, it don't leave any residue on your motherboard - Sealstring always attaches to sealstring... you'll know what I mean when you hold some in your hands... hehe
placebo: Thanks :)
As said before I can buy a Mach II used, but the PC have be turned on manually after the Mach II. Something's wrong with it? But what could it be?
Go to the vapochill homepage, they have the manual for the LS and a list of EU resellers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Monge
G
Slience and Performance, isnt that what we all want?
Two options....Quote:
Originally Posted by Monge
a) Cable missing (pretty unlikely)
b) Their 'fantastic' *cough* controller is shagged (highly likely)
All in all, maybe not too bad of an issue overall. Controller could be replaced with that golden frosties thingy... ;)
Master_G: Thanks :)
placebo: b) Their 'fantastic' *cough* controller is shagged (highly likely)
Controller could be replaced with that golden frosties thingy...
golden frosties thingy: I don't get it? You mean it could be replaced?
He means the 'Golden Froster' lol
Look in the stickies, it should be there, and you can PM either Golden Eagle or Ssilencer for price and all that.
They do different controllers that aren't too bad to wire on if you need it to work to boot the PC and all that for you. How much depends on how good you want it to be.
Personally I don't mind booting myself, don't really care if the display is accurate either, as long as it's modded to something colder, and will oc the heck out of whatever it's cooling :D
You could always risk it, and try reflashing the controller when you've got it, that cures the problem a lot of the time.
If it's really cheap you could buy it, at the very least it's the best platform to get modded up.
Gray
Gray: Thanks for the help :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Gray Mole
Unlike some people mentioned here, I prefer mach over vapo LS. (yes I've used both and some more)
#1. Better compressor on mach II. If you ever want to modify it, it is just much better starting ground with no need for compressor swapping really.
#2. Controller seems to be more stable. I myself had vapo controller that just wouldn't connect to PC. It happens to be known issue unfortunately and solution takes close to month or two if you are not in denmark as you will have to RMA. Temp reading on both of them are out of whack but it does it's basic functions just fine. Display somewhat relative temp, shut down, turn on, control fanspeed, etc.
#3. It's fault is the suction line that isn't really durable and evaporator design and mounting inefficiency. Vapo wins in this account but custom phase change with good evap and new suction line will save you much headache. There are some really good suction line that just is nearly impossible to break under normal wear and tear. I've passed brazed suction line to my kids and it still is just fine. (If you guys ever grew kids, you will be amazed at what they can break)
Also, there are few evaporators out there that are just much much better in many respect.
Vapochill LS unfortunately is extremely well tuned for the component utilized in system and retuning won't get you much more until compressor is swapped out (at which point... might as well get custom units)
The only thing I really like about vapochill is it's mounting kit... very very good mounting system.
jinu117: Thanks for your reply :)
So if I buy a used Mach II, get R404a gas on it and get the chillcontroller fixed or replaced (maybe a Golden Froster) I'll be fine for a start, no.
The Mach II is gonna be used with a Opteron 146 CABYE 0540 FPBW/ DFI NF4 and some BH-5 or UTT.
Maybe that's a bad combination. Cold bug?
Edit: I got new info.
The seller says:
That in his mach II all the diode's light on the back at once.
Every time his trying to connect the USB cabel to the motherboard his PC freeze. If he takes it out again it's going OK and cool down well.
You could either get it regassed to 404 or 507 with no problems depending where you live. There's usually someone around that can do it.
I don't know how easy it is to get a replacement controller for the mach's, Asetek makes it easy for the Vapo's, but you could email ECT about the controller.
Otherwise, I'm pretty sure the Frosters aren't too expensive for the basic version, but need to PM about that, or ask in the thread for pricing and they'll pm you.
Just means wiring it in, and attaching a new probe to the head, or at least as far up the neck as you could get it.
Cheers
Gray
Gray: Thanks a lot :)
I know a guy, who can do the regassing for me, no problem.
But I do believe the sellers chillcontroller is screwed up. All the diode's light on the back at once and every time his trying to connect the USB cabel to the motherboard his PC freeze.
I'll try to find some pricing for chillcontrollers.
Just a last Question:
What's the difference between Mach II std. and GT.
Windows software don't work with std or?
Only difference is charge and type of gas and firmware on controller for fan speed once it gets to temperature. Since you do plan to modify it anyway and I see no value for connecting the mach units to usb header other than for fancy lcd message, or turning the fan up for full speed which do get tad noisey (in case of early mach's they used 100cfm sunon which they replaced with 80cfm Panaflo M1A) either of them are same thing for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Monge
While doing modification, I suggest grabbing retuning with nicer evap if you got that in budget and new suction line for trouble free operation.
jinu117: Thanks a lot :)
I'll take your advise in consideration.
Update:
It's a nVentiv Prometia Mach II (2-3 years old) w. soc. A kit and I can buy it for $157.
But here what seller write:
My Mach 2 ligth in all the diodes at once. I have refitted it all twice. So it can't be that. It does not turn my computer on. It writes in the display that it boots but nothing else happen.
So it's stupid to buy it?
I found this in the Mach II manual.
All four diodes is lightin:
Error code 7: Cooling fault -The bimetal is open. To high condensation temperature.
To high temperature in Mach II house maybe?
Bimetals contact is open and the power to the compressor is cutted?
Hmmm for $157 get it and ask modder to mod it for you :) Compressor and condenser alone is worth over that anyway. (and probably only thing you care about)
Entirely possible that the bimetal sensor on the condensor either has a broken wire, or it's just plain busted.
If you cut and spliced the wires for it you might just getit to work fine again, though you wouldn't have the safety of the switch I suppose.
I agree, at that price it's well worth it, if it still comes down to temp and all that. Nice find at that price :toast:
Gray
jinu117 and Gray: Thanks a lot :)
I'll get the Mach II in the next days and I'll have a modder to look at it and optimize.
btw. The bimetal sensor: Where is it located and is it posible to change the sensor with a new one?
Could it posible be a dirty sensor?
Update: Still waiting to get my Mach II. Should be here today or tomorrow.
I got it for $143 incl. an extra LCD display.
I am gonna power it by cable and connect the USB cable to PC.
Then I'll start PC and Windows.
Open and load bootload utilitity.
Shut PC down and connect everything.
Shut down before installing cascade? Whimp :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Monge
Yes I'll do :)
I recieved my Mach II today opened it up and found this:
http://xtremesystems.org/forums/atta...id=40586&stc=1
The hole in the insulation is near the compressor and about 2,5cm long.
Should I be worried?
Nothing to worry about fire it up you may get some frost there, which when it warms will cause a small amout of water if you are worried just buy some armaflex tape and tape over it
Thanks :)Quote:
Originally Posted by fatty
I can't fire her up yet, I have to wait 12 hours I been told. I just recieved it 2-3 hours ago.
Can I test her without connecting it all to see if the it cool OK?
Also I need to make some holes in my case.
In any case I'm happy, it's Danfoss NL11F compressor, Panaflo fans(31/39DB) and I got an extra completely new Blue display
Monge
pics ? :)
Here's one:
http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/9474/machii2cj.jpg
Here's one more, but a little dark in the room now:
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/6677/p10100882ws.jpg
Update:
The controller works now. LCD display show Standby and read temps and all that :)
Connected the mainpower cable to Mach II and she fired straight on and the four diodes was lighting and Mach II started to cool.
So I connected the USB cable to an aircooled pc with P4 and after a hard time trial and error with the USB stuff, I got an USB connection and was allowed to flash firmware with bootloader. After that the Mach II was going to standby and showing temps etc.
Now the green diode blinks and LCD display shows standby when powercable is connected as it should.
The Microfreezer got icecold with ice, so I guess it's working.
A Mach II to $143 and working :D
Very sweet deal man, get er' mounted and let's see some results :D