Well I guess I can show you my new block :)

Well after about 2 months of perfecting my machining methods and optimizing my desing in theory, and then making different prototypes of slightly different dimensions of 1. fin height 2. base thickness and 3. fin width. As for inlet opening I made it for normal aquarium pumps with aprox 1.5 m of head. I can almost say that I have final design of the block, I need to try two more changes. I did play with only 1mm thin base, but it wasn't as good as 1.5mm on tbred core cpu. aprox 1-2 °C higher load temps. performanse of the block is very good. On a palomino core cpu @1980 MHz @ 2.15V and water temp of 20°C my folding load temps are ~ 33°C measured by 8k3a (on die diode).
Anyway here are the pics.

http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Unlocki...ture%20004.jpg
http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Unlocki...ture%20005.jpg
http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Unlocki...ture%20031.jpg
http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Unlocki...ture%20016.jpg


Block was tested under 4 bars of water preasure for 5 hours and o-ring sealed perfectly.

Here is another version of my block in action

http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Unlocki...ture%20034.jpg

Niiice work dude :D

Very nice work. Is this perchance based on Cathar's design?

:) Well it's based on micro channels, but yeah Cathars block was inspiration to got me thinking again on how can I effectively make such small channels. Because I did try 2mm quite some time ago (different layout) but it was to difficult for machining on my mill (read broken bits), but after seeing his design, I got few ideas how to make those micro channels so sometime later and few modifications to my mill, that is the result.

A very nice block indeed, I like that it uses the basic concept of cathers block but channels into one outlet. Good work m8!

Looking sweet as expected:D I'l be getting w/ you soon:)

nice one, i'll have to buy you someday one of those (maybe for my gf4)

Nice block man =]

Rev. 2 tbred optimized design getting ready, I'll be running this block tonight to see how well it cools
http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Mk4/Mk4%20tbred%20B.jpg

morphling1: how much does that WB restrict the waterflow?

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gooFly

Hadn't seen this till now :)

Still love this design, morphling1. :D

I'd personally love to see a side-by-side w/ urs & Cathar's ;)

Hi N8, I just took that photo no time to PM first :D
I also just went through diode calibration calculation and saw that tbred has totaly offset diode reading on 8k3a, I substracted 18°C and now I'm using halt command which shuts cpu pretty much off and my water and cpu temps are there where they should be, so now I'm at big dilema if that thiners base block won't be better :D well only one thing to do finish this one and compare to previous one.

gooFly haven't realy check yet but not too much as the path for the water is realy short.

Interesting change with the pins in the center. 20% over the center core in pins now? Won't that make it harder to determine if the change in the base thickness was helpfull ? Seems that would obscure the results of comparing the two designs, or have you tried this pins arrangement in the other base thickness? The inlet barb may be blocking view of that in earlier pixs.

I see you seem to be opting for the 9 fin design over the one w/13 fins. How well did the 13 fin design compare with the 9 fin?

Have you tried bead blasting the interior of the block to gain a touch more surface area? Results?

I really like the fact that you have a two barb design. Saves on fittings, one less barb and no Y needed, cleaner.

A great design, I too would like to see how it would match up to the WW.

Craig those aren't full lenght pins but only 1mm deep on top for improving turbolence and for better flow distribution to outer fins.
The design were actualy 10 and 14 fins, and in second the fins were too thin and because of that the results were few deegres higher (still better then every large channel block)
Blast I would, if I would have a blaster :) I'm looking into that.
Ok the block is ready and but first I must see how high can I overclock with current one, I'll be using overclocking because I just learned that 8k3a and tbred just don't mix well with temp reading.

congratulations! outstanding waterblock! :) I emailed you and asked some info about it ;)

with so much copper not being cooled (ex: the middle island and the bottom of the block in most pics) wouldn't the block get quite hot over time. I see all the cooling is done directly on top of the core.

Nice design!! It would make sense that with high flow rates the base should be kept to a minimum. Unsafe in case of pump failure ect. but should be effective

Jack, surprisingly no :D quite a noob question, wouldn't you think if the cpu core is being cooled efficiently that the rest of the block won't heat up, trust me it does not get hot over time ;)
Base thickness is pretty minimal is it is, and the block works incredibly well even with lower flows.
Anyway block is finished and already installed, it's 10 MHz better then previosu, hehe small gain, but very little room for improvement.
Some more pics.
http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Mk4/mk4%20rev2%20001.JPG
http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Mk4/mk4%20rev2%20002.JPG
http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Mk4/mk4%20rev2%20003.JPG

N8 this is it I'm done yours will be in the mail next week

Thanks for all the information you have shared here.:toast:

Did you note any improvement in your temps with this block?

Your O/C on the other thread is VERY impressive. Best I've heard of with water cooling only used on current AMD chips. Congrats! ! :toast:

I gave up on accurate temp reading, it's very hard to look at them when they fluctuate up and down (I have 1s refresh), so the stable overclock tells me more then temps and like I said I got another 10+ MHz :)
I intend to send one block to Bill Adams for test, and then everything will be known :D

Quote:

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Originally posted by morphling1
N8 this is it I'm done yours will be in the mail next week

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Looks sweet as could be...results sound awesome! I'm rdy 4 it :D

Quote:

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Originally posted by N8
Looks sweet as could be...results sound awesome! I'm rdy 4 it :D

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Keep us informed, give us some results

The only thing I have to compare it to is a retail D-Tek Spir@l block...but I'll surely let ya's know how it made out :)

/me's anxious to try it ;)

Looking good morphling1.

Will sure be looking to see your comparison n8.

And a write up by BillA will be great as well. Glad to see you've decided tosend one in Morphling1.

:rocker: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :rocker:

Quote:

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Originally posted by N8
The only thing I have to compare it to is a retail D-Tek Spir@l block...but I'll surely let ya's know how it made out :)

/me's anxious to try it ;)

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I'm curious about your results, i've got a D-Tek spir@l too! :)

He should have them very soon, me anxios too :) Well just to see by how much my is better

Can anyone guess what this is
http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Mk4/ultimate.JPG

OH MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Looks like about a 8% increase in cooling!!!!!! No question you're upholding the site's name!!!:toast:

If in fact it gives a boost to cooling then it should help your O/C as well.

Wonder by how much???????? :D

I'm sure I can guess what that is...but I will have cheated ;)

I'll let others guess :)

Quote:

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Originally posted by Craig
Man you get this next block done out of that you better add some LEDs to really show this one off big time. I'd say go with white ones.

If in fact it gives a 8% boost to cooling then it should help your O/C as well.



Wonder by how much???????? :D

(note: I'm going to feel a bit foolish if that isn't what I think it is.)

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Unfortunatly thermal conductivity is just one part of the total heat transfer, forced convection plays bigger role in my block. I have no clue what to expect but if I can get another 2 degrees or maybe even more should be great.

I agree the forced convection is very/more important. Your block is very good at removing the heat quickly as it is transmitted through the blocks base to the water. The combined increase in surface area and coolant velocity means the coolant removes the heat as fast as it makes contact with the coolant.

Will this not then increase the importance of a material that can transfer the CPUs heat away from it more quickly and deliver it to the coolant?

On the other side of the coin however is the fact that the waterblock's base plate is only 2mm thick. Such a thin base plate would minimize the effect of a impovement in block material.

It's enough to make you crazy thinking about it. So when do you think you'll have one ready for testing?

Morphling1: Could u make a version out of aluminium also? Just to see what kind of temperaturerise u get while using a thin base.

HMB, A real good idea, if he has the time for it.

Yes I'm interested too, and I will make it just too see it's performanse :)

Morphling1 you are one cool guy. Thanks for the extra effort so that all can see the differace derived in using alum. copper and silver in a advanced high performing design. :toast:

Look like a hunk of silver to me!

Quote:

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Originally posted by sysfailur
Look like a hunk of silver to me!

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To me either

That's alu right dont say its silver heh.

hmm didn't u do your spiralblock in both copper and alu? and the alu one was almost 10C worst? I think that shows that alu is a bit worse.

Unfortunately, that's silver :)
Yes I did exactly the same desing of two fin spiral in Cu & Al and the difference was ~10°C. But I'm still very interested how microchannel version would do.

Alum vs Silver vs Copper micro-channel sounds very cool morph, hint hint :p

Hey Morph,

Gotta say, that waterblock looks like a winner all around. You should sell these things. I know id buy one if you did and im sure there are others here that would too, right guys?!

In fact he sells them so pm him and ask if he still does

I'd like to see how this block fares against Cathar's WW since that's what I'm planning to get when he gets some more done. But if this is better, I'd definitely buy one.

SoulEdge,

Morphling1 is sending a block to Bill Adams to test, so you will have your answer in due time.

I like the two barb design & plexi top. But I doubt the performance differance will be very large, both are mini fin/channel designs.

has anyone tried building a block with the portion over the core thinned out .... this would make it as close to direct die cooling right?

tediber,

Fairly sure morph has tested several base thickness's. :)

WOW!
An absolute piece of ART!!!!!!!!!!
C

Quote:

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Originally posted by tediber
has anyone tried building a block with the portion over the core thinned out .... this would make it as close to direct die cooling right?

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Yes, my block, strictly focusses on using very thin base-plates to achieve something that could be considered very close to direct-die cooling as a result. In fact I'm fairly confident I can state that direct-die cooling would have quite a deal of trouble exceeding it. I used thermo-dynamics simulation software that I wrote to arrive at the design and dimensions of my block.

Morphling is going through much implementation trial and error, and I see in this thread that he has basically reverse engineered something close to my exact design after being inspired by it. The only real difference here is that he's taken the two outlets back to a single outlet and put a clear top on it.

Nice looking block. All of the concepts that it uses are explained in greater detail in this thread which explains the reasons behind the design that Morphling has implemented in his block. You'll need to register at OCAU to read the thread.

Well the theory I had long before that, the problem with me was the execution, before that I only tried 2mm channels (radial design of channell not straight, and they were very difficult to machine on my mill, but when seeing your thread I was inspired, and then also got idea of how to produce those channels. Then after few test block I finalize my design to MK4 rev2. There are quite some differences though in dimensions and details in WW and my block.

Ok update
I made this mounting block when I started working on silver block, it now much easier to mill because I don't have to remount block and align it each time I change directiton, I do that on vise which is 360° turnable.
http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Block%20making.JPG

And here's rough finish of silver block, it finished btw. but I'm again need to borrow the cam to photo the finished block
http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Mk4/sil...lver%20001.JPG

http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Mk4/sil...lver%20002.JPG
http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Mk4/sil...lver%20003.JPG

Too bad I won't have a chance to test it, the man who order it is gonna pick it up in few minutes, but I'll have my own version soon :D

Looking forward to seeing how the silver block stacks up. It should do marginally better... not hugely though.

The silver block looks assume and can't wait to see the performance over the copper base block.

Isn't the correct word awesome :D correct me if I'm wrong, english isn't my native language.
I'll be getting my silver piece on wednesday, so should be making comparison next weekend :)

Another really nice block, and in silver it's even sharper looking than in copper.

I'll be eagerly awaiting testing of your silver one when ready.

And you're right it is awesome

Any updates?
morphling1 you have a PM :)

A little update, no silver for me yet (soon) But I made P4 versions here:
http://www2.arnes.si/~mlivak/Mk4/P4/MK4%20P4%2002.JPG

My lord! :)

Just now seeing the silver version.....sweeeeeeeeeet.

All I know atm is my MK4 is ROCKING considering my water temps. I'm working on that.....then I'll be comparing the MK4 to a retail D-Tek Spir@l in my setup. :D

Dude you have PM. Please respond. :(

I replied two days ago, didn't you get it?
I'll send again

Wow, they are some amazing looking blocks. And the cool very well too.

Well done mate!

OK got it. Thanks! :)

thats nice work.
maybe someday i will make a Water Block like yours :)

Another nice looking block Morphling1. YOu do really sharp looking work as well as a high performing.

Any figures on the silver block yet?