OK, I want to figure out the Vtt mod for the KV8 Pro rev1.1. I already contacted master Hell-Fire.
Winbond W83303D again. :(
There are no other ICs around DIMM slots. Only mosfets.
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OK, I want to figure out the Vtt mod for the KV8 Pro rev1.1. I already contacted master Hell-Fire.
Winbond W83303D again. :(
There are no other ICs around DIMM slots. Only mosfets.
OK, here we go with the voltage measurements:
I hope Hell-Fire or anyone can help me, figure this out!
OK, the only pin that shows ~ 1.3V is that one. Vtt in bios shows 1.33V - multimeter reads 1.30V here.
I think I could follow the trace from Pin#7 (Vtt sense) up to this area. The trace goes to the back of the board and to the front again I think. There are some 1.30V readings on these mosfets and on resistor R19 too.
Does this help?
Quote:
Originally posted by Goldlocke
I think I could follow the trace from Pin#7 (Vtt sense) up to this area. The trace goes to the back of the board and to the front again I think. There are some 1.30V readings on these mosfets and on resistor R19 too.
Does this help?
Do a resistance check on pin #7 to see what you get.
I would think that replacing R19 with a 200-1K ohm VR would do the trick.
The VR would need to be set to 0 ohms before soldering on the R19 pads.
I would do a connectivity test between R19, the FETs beside it where you read Vtt, and pin #7 on W83303D.
IF the trace goes from pin 7 of the winbond IC to the Mos-Fets DIRECTLY , then sorry M8 but you HAVE to cut the trace and do the the mod of the IC7(-G) mobos.......That's the only way to do it....... ;)
EDIT : IF you can read on R19's BOTH ends the 1.3Volts,then you are just lucky........ :D
Replace it with a 10 Ohms resistor and on the right leg of it(as shown in pic) solder a 200 Ohms trimmer 25 turns to ground and you're ready...... ;)
To you both: Thanks for joining this thread. :)
@ Hell-Fire: OK, Hell-Fire you outlined the correct trace.
Resistance check with mobo turned off? I read 366ohms ground to Pin#7. I also read 365ohms on both sides of R19 (dunno if thats relevant?).
I read 1701ohms on Pin#7 with mobo turned on. I also read 1701ohms on both sides of R19, when mobo is turned on. :)
How do I perform a connectivity test plz? sry for noobness! :D
Can I do this with the acoustic continuity test of my voltmeter?
edit: OK, did the "beep test". And my multimeter beeps every time I connect Pin#7 and the 1.3v or 1.28v points I labeled below! :D
@ hipro5: I read 1.30V on both sides of R19. And the 2 dots beside it. :) I only have to make sure, I am following the correct trace from Pin#7 up there.
btw, Vtt mod is my priority because the GURU software allows Vdimm adjustment to 3.28V. I will try Vdimm mod later, when Vtt has succeeded. :)
If anyone needs the datasheet of W83303D - I can email it to you. (But I think you 2 already got it a long time)
LAST one........IF R19 "beeps" with the 7 pin of the winbond IC , then you can remove it and do the mod as described above.... ;)
Yes, R19 beeps at both ends. :)
So what is 10ohm fixed resistor for? Safety reasons?
Oh, and I have to start with low resistance on the trimmer, right?
Hey guys! If that works - gimme your Paypal accountnumbers! ;)
NO.....You have to start at high resistance on my mods(IC7-G) based VTT......IF you solder ONLY a trimmer in R19's place , then YES trim it at low resistance......Quote:
Originally posted by Goldlocke
Yes, R19 beeps at both ends. :)
So what is 10ohm fixed resistor for? Safety reasons?
Oh, and I have to start with low resistance on the trimmer, right?
Hey guys! If that works - gimme your Paypal accountnumbers! ;)
Since R19 is a zero ohm resistor, its just there to bridge a gap more or less.
You can remove it and solder a 200ohm to 1K ohm VR set at zero ohms to start with. Raising the resistance will increase the voltage in the loop for Vtt.
OK, removed R19. Soldered 187ohm in place. Changes Vtt by nothing. :(
I will try higher VR...
If you still have R19 handy, check its resistance to make sure it was a 0 ohm resistor.
Yes, it's 0 ohms. There's also a 0 printed on it.
Do you not have a VR handy for this versus using a fixed resistor?
187 seems to high to begin with.
Look at my pic! It is a VR. I went from 0 - 187 ohm. no change. :( Shall I try the 1k VR?
LOL..sorry about that. Only took a quick peek as I have the solder iron in my hand.Quote:
Originally posted by Goldlocke
Look at my pic! It is a VR. I went from 0 - 187 ohm. no change. :( Shall I try the 1k VR?
Yeh, may as well try the 1k, although I would think that 187 ohms should have increased the Vtt.
I will have to relook this over later today after I ship some items out.
Unsolder the trimmer and measure the line if it "beeps" with the pin 7 of the IC.......Quote:
Originally posted by Goldlocke
Look at my pic! It is a VR. I went from 0 - 187 ohm. no change. :( Shall I try the 1k VR?
HAH! I just checked resistance of the new VR with mobo working.
-> It did change Vtt temporarily in bios! (When I made contact with the multimeter). Of course it went up and down, but it changed!!! :D
I will try 1k VR...
I unsoldered VR, so that short wires were alone. Now only 1 line beeps (the 1 nearer to the IC).Quote:
Originally posted by hipro5
Unsolder the trimmer and measure the line if it "beeps" with the pin 7 of the IC.......
edit: hmm,...even 1k VR didnt change a thing. So, what is the difference between making contact with the multimeter and using simply the VR??? :confused: :confused: :confused:
edit2: checked other thing: When I leave to line open without the VR the board does not post. When I connect the 2 wires directly to each other, the board posts and shows default Vtt. So R19 indeed was just a bridge.
But why does an increase in resistance not change the Vtt?
YESSS! WE DID IT!!!
I can now change Vtt way beyond 1.60V. :banana:
hipro5's way was the right one!
10ohm fixed instead of R19 and then 200ohm VR from there to ground. Of course the pic only shows the testing setup, not the final mod. :D
Hipro5 I love you! Ok, I love you too Hell-Fire! :D
It is indeed a "greek summer of 2004" as your President put it hipro5. ;)
I fail to see why a fixed resistor is needed for this mod.
Although Hipro also used fixed resistors in his guide to the IC7 boards (for Vtt & Vagp mods), they were not needed there as well.
I straight thru VR should have done the trick as well.
The way I am looking at that above, it would prob still work just to remove the whole setup in the above pic and solder the VR between pad #1 and the FET leg reading Vtt.
Hipro, could you clarify this for me as it may help me with future mods. Resistance is resistance, and when a zero ohm resistor is removed, its no different than cutting a trace and introducing a resistance into the circuit loop to increase voltage.
maybe the clue is the connect-to-ground-part?
Hell - what do you think, his got the pics & diagrams down pat. Thats some sweat camera you have there, nice work with the voltage readings to.
:DQuote:
Originally posted by Goldlocke
YESSS! WE DID IT!!!
I can now change Vtt way beyond 1.60V. :banana:
hipro5's way was the right one!
10ohm fixed instead of R19 and then 200ohm VR from there to ground. Of course the pic only shows the testing setup, not the final mod. :D
Hipro5 I love you! Ok, I love you too Hell-Fire! :D
It is indeed a "greek summer of 2004" as your President put it hipro5. ;)
WAY TO GO M8..... :toast:
I'm glad I could help you out with this..Keep on......
Thank you... :)
If the VTT sence of the winbond IC needs a few uA to work and not mA , then even with a 1K Ohm resistor we get nothing(or a few-readable)......If our "sence" pin needs mA to work , then involving a resistor will do the job BUT not well above some Volts........The R-R(ground) method,forces the cirquit to lower the reading voltage as we wish(trimmed) and it feeds the "sence" cirquit with this voltage and with the uA or mA it wants.... ;)Quote:
Originally posted by Hell-Fire
I fail to see why a fixed resistor is needed for this mod.
Although Hipro also used fixed resistors in his guide to the IC7 boards (for Vtt & Vagp mods), they were not needed there as well.
I straight thru VR should have done the trick as well.
The way I am looking at that above, it would prob still work just to remove the whole setup in the above pic and solder the VR between pad #1 and the FET leg reading Vtt.
Hipro, could you clarify this for me as it may help me with future mods. Resistance is resistance, and when a zero ohm resistor is removed, its no different than cutting a trace and introducing a resistance into the circuit loop to increase voltage.
No matter what it will work....... ;)
Quote:
Originally posted by hipro5
If the VTT sence of the winbond IC needs a few uA to work and not mA , then even with a 1K Ohm resistor we get nothing(or a few-readable)......If our "sence" pin needs mA to work , then involving a resistor will do the job BUT not well above some Volts........The R-R(ground) method,forces the cirquit to lower the reading voltage as we wish(trimmed) and it feeds the "sence" cirquit with this voltage and with the uA or mA it wants.... ;)
No matter what it will work....... ;)
I figured it was something along those lines, but wanted to get your input.
This is along the same lines as a controller passing binary 1 and 0 calls to regulate voltage.
So, the fixed resistor forces the current high enough for the sense pin to output stock Vtt as regulated by W83303D, then we control further output via the trimmer.
Reason I was asking mainly is because I had similiar issue with the AK89 board where the W83304D was present and zero ohm resistors were both in the circuit of Vdimm and Vtt regulation. I replaced both with 200 ohm VRs and could easily adjust both voltages.
Goldlocke - just wandering what are you running you rails at, 12v,5v, & 3.3v .
How is the mod working, I have this board & would love to get some BH6 kickin in it.
Can anyone put here a picture with the final mod and the values of the resistors?
Thank you
that is my KV8-MAX3 ,but i didn't find the good vtt mod ,i have try one mod ,but it doesn't work ,but your motherboard it more same as my because your resistore was placed same as the KV8-MAX3 ,and i have the same measure. I will try your vmod on my KV8 , one picture for explain :
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/overcrash86/...esures/vtt.gif
What do you guys think of this??
http://www.savepic.com/freepictureho..._mosfets2E.jpg
Quote:
Originally posted by CaTalyst.X
What do you guys think of this??
I think it would work....... :)
Good :P some1 wanna test it?
-CaT
@ Overcrash, give this a try.
http://www.savepic.com/freepictureho...6&img=vtte.jpg
-CaT
well i had this board lying around and decided to see if connecting the 3.3v rail directly to the vdimm would work. it seems it worked perfectly. i dont have a cpu to test it though. only checked it with the multi and the fet was reading 3.3v instead of the default voltage after the mod. here is a pic of the mod.
Thanks CaTalyst.X,Quote:
Originally posted by CaTalyst.X
@ Overcrash, give this a try.
http://www.savepic.com/freepictureho...6&img=vtte.jpg
-CaT
I will test when I would have a trimmer.
at this moment i have oen Chaintech VNF3-250 and it work better as the KV8-MAX3 ,for OCing :D 360Mhz of FSB stable ,i'll recicve my ADATA PC4000 tomorrow ,i've alredy do the vdimm mod on the vnf3 and it was at 3.37v :D .
Alrighy, let us know how it goes :D
-CaT
how would the vdimm mod go? i know theres the 3.3v from the ps, but how could u do it with a vr? i want to be able to get up to about 3.4v, but down to 3.0
has anyone had problems lately with this board and the memory controller at high voltages?
Let me get this stright, for 10ohm Fixed Resistor + 200ohm VR set-up I'll need to set the VR at 200ohm. Then reduce the resistance to get higher VTT?Quote:
Originally posted by hipro5
NO.....You have to start at high resistance on my mods(IC7-G) based VTT......IF you solder ONLY a trimmer in R19's place , then YES trim it at low resistance......
tried it. does not work! :(
Quote:
Originally posted by CaTalyst.X
What do you guys think of this??
http://www.savepic.com/freepictureho..._mosfets2E.jpg
Now I have a Serious Problem. One of the Soldering points of the R19 came off! :eek: It's the one nearest to the Mosfet. Help would be Really Really Good. :(
Are you saying that the solder pad on the motherboard came off, or just the solder on the end of the resistor?
Using the pic above, please point out which spot.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1..._mosfets-a.jpg
It's the PAD. Refer to Pic above. Yellow Arrow, Soldering Pad on the Right side.
And I tried digging the point with a pen knife. which was a big mistake.
Quote:
Originally posted by Hell-Fire
Are you saying that the solder pad on the motherboard came off, or just the solder on the end of the resistor?
Using the pic above, please point out which spot.
You can fix that easily I think by soldering a wire across the 2 points I marked. Or, to make it easier, just connect the points using solder itself.
Should fine since that was a 0 ohm resistor and I dont see anything else that the right solder pad is connected to that should be connected in the circuit.
Hell-Fire Thank you. I'll try this.
Cheers man. :)
Quote:
Originally posted by Hell-Fire
You can fix that easily I think by soldering a wire across the 2 points I marked. Or, to make it easier, just connect the points using solder itself.
Should fine since that was a 0 ohm resistor and I dont see anything else that the right solder pad is connected to that should be connected in the circuit.
I have reconnected the wires as per your pic.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ods/KV8Pro.jpg
Question, How do I go about if I want to do VTT mod?
Right now I am at school, so I dont have time to read over the entire thread again to see what, if any, progress has been made.
If R19 was the proper resistor off the Vtt Vreg, then I recommend putting a 10-20 ohm fixed resistor between the 2 solder pads, being careful not to bridge together the solder pad on R20. Then, connect a wire to the end of that fixed resistor that is soldered to the pad to the left of R20 pad (using hte pic in your last post), and solder other end of that wire to a 200-1K ohm VR set to max resistance..and other leg of VR to ground.
Remember to use the middle leg and one of the outter legs.
That should do the trick is R19 is directly connected to pin #7 on WinBond.
you can still do the vtt mod, just use the alternate pad that HF pointed out instead of the one you burned out and do it like this:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...282#post498282
I would be really interested in this, to see the mod on rocking ;)
Anyone knows if Abit will come up with a bios that can let us adjust the vdimm up to 3.2 ???
The uGuru that came with the installation CD is able to adjust the VDimm to 3.2v. But the problem is that the VTT only follows up to 2.8v. anything above it will not follow.
Quote:
Originally posted by Byron
I would be really interested in this, to see the mod on rocking ;)
Anyone knows if Abit will come up with a bios that can let us adjust the vdimm up to 3.2 ???
ive asked them. i joined pcperspective forums just to ask the abit PR. no response yet. also ive asked several modders for a modded kv8 pro bios but no luck.
my ocguru doesnt work so ill be the first to try the vdimm.
I've heard that on most mobo's the older version of uguru works, may try it and see if it works :)Quote:
Originally posted by reject
ive asked them. i joined pcperspective forums just to ask the abit PR. no response yet. also ive asked several modders for a modded kv8 pro bios but no luck.
my ocguru doesnt work so ill be the first to try the vdimm.
One question i've on that one, since the uguru is a windows software, when you change the vdimm to 3.2 and restart... do you have to reset it back to 3.2v again???Quote:
Originally posted by htkm1
The uGuru that came with the installation CD is able to adjust the VDimm to 3.2v. But the problem is that the VTT only follows up to 2.8v. anything above it will not follow.
Or it keeps the setting on the bios and each time you boot the Vdimm stays at 3.2v ?
Cheers,
B
Wierd, the mod worked fine for reject, try resoldering the connection.Quote:
Originally posted by htkm1
tried it. does not work! :(
-CaT
becuase its so small it may take a few tries to get it not shorting over r19. what i mean, is that its so small, there may be the slightest cotsct between each wire on the pads and that mean the mod wont work. just keep trying took me a few goes. just try not to burn the mosfet then ure fkd
byron: i tried the old one from the install cd but no luck. just got crashes wheh i tried to apply the profile. luckily only the program crashed
:( Hopefully or they'll come up with a new bios with up to 3.2vdimm or someone will mod the bios in the near future... because that mobo have some good potential i guess with more vdimm :cool:
yeh, especialyy for adata vitesta. 295 fsb has been reached on some p4 board with these sticks at 3.4v
could someone please post a picture on teh soldering spots and an explanation on what would be on each place?
of the Vtt mod? "what would be on each place"??? :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowman89
heh, yeah, im not so very in vmodding so :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Goldlocke
Hello!Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron
The easiest way to set higher than 2.8V Vdimm on KV8Pro:
1. Save your current BIOS to file.
2. Load BIOS ver. 1.1 or 1.0 (which have up to 3.2V settings).
3. Set your favored voltage for DIMMs with 1.1 BIOS.
4. Load saved BIOS.
5. Don't change Vdimm in BIOS - You will have old setting for it's next change.
Simply to do and works fine...
How you know that after all this procedure the Vdimm is at 3.2 ??? Did you measured it from the ic?
I have 3RD Eye and it shows it (the same shows AbitEQ). In newer BIOSes after that 'trick' You will see that there are options for voltage who are blanked and BIOS 'don't know what is going now'.
Try and see it by Youself.
Abit engeeners locked over 2.8 Vdimm because over VTT is going down seriously and it isn't half of VDD (for 3.0V is 1.36V, for 3.2V is 1.31V) - it is IMO general reason for cutting that voltages in BIOS (but for 2.9V is 1.45V... I don't understand how works that Abit's bug)
(please excuse me if I write 'not exactly' english)
if its possible to change the the vdimm in bios v1.1 why should i use th old bios for oc? is it better?Quote:
Originally Posted by rapra
it will be worst - new bioses are better and have more functions. but it is possible of course
i tried it and failed. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by rapra
am i allowed to use abits flash menu or should i do it with the floppy method?
ahh, i got it.
its not possiible with flashmenu, you have to use the floppy method.
and it works great.
A long time passed since the initial mod.
But I still get requests about final pics.
Here they are! :)
method: 10ohm fixed resistor instead of R19 and then 200ohm VR from there to ground.
ok nice work but what about r20 remove it or keep it in mobo
? and some questions i have rev 1.1 3rd eye model and mod bios from ashe
and i did rise vmem to 3.2 volts and bios is showing me that vmem is 3.3v
and the problem is that when i hit 236 fsb my screen goes black...
then when i set 240 fsb with 3.3v i get dll problems with win xp and blue screens.... so does that vtt mod help me much?
Haha legendary, bumbing up this becose trying soon dice with this oldschool mobo and cpu, modding again this mobo and trying to fit peltier block on nb etc pics tomorrow when i have had cleaned up it from dust :D
ps: sorry for bumbing this up but i dont wanna make new thread for this mobo