3 new guides

Hi guys, I've just finished writing 3 new basic guides to phase-change that cover tools and building. I'm no guru so if there are some mistakes there, then let me know what to correct. But I think there's quite a bit of info there for the beginners :)

Refrigeration Basics 1
http://www.vr-zone.com/?i=713&s=1

Refrigeration Basics 2
http://www.vr-zone.com/?i=714&s=1

Regasing a Prometiea/Vapochill
http://www.vr-zone.com/?i=716&s=1

Insulation guide
http://wwww.vr-zone.com/?i=230&s=1

Mounting a Prommie onto the GPU
http://www.vr-zone.com/?i=172&s=1

Dual Cascade Cooler
http://www.vr-zone.com/?i=618&s=1

Dual-Evaporator Cooler
http://www.vr-zone.com/?i=1227&s=1

Mounting Hole database for the convenience of people DIYing evaps or adapting Vapochills to fit the new sockets. Includes Graphics cards as well.
http://www.vr-zone.com/?i=1356&s=1

Making a cheap and simple evaporator housing.
http://www.vr-zone.com/?i=1627&s=1

All 3 are great

FANTASTIC Information LardArse! :banana: :banana: :banana:

I'm SURE Everyone starting out in DIY Phase Change will appreciate these writeups!

Thanks Man :toast: :toast:

cool. very helpful :cool:

On the flaring tools: What you are calling the wrench is the flaring block. The head installed on the flaring tool is a swaging head, and you are swaging the tube, not flaring it. The depth of the swag must be equal to the outside diameter of the tube. IOW, if the tubing is 1/4 inch OD, then it should be swagged 1/4 inch deep. The swag connection in the pics isn't deep enough for a strong connection.

very nice, one question though, where can you buy all those tools, what kind of shop is that?

The guide on gassing a prommie I think It will lead to overcharging. Usually if you dump in only gas to 80 psi (R507 only) the system will be overcharged. If R404 (Liquid only) it would absolutley overcharged by gassing to 80 psi.

This is just what I have been looking for:D I was going to go to look for a decent compressor for my first phase change system tomorrow anyway, but now I also have the information about the tools I need to get. This is the best guide I have found:D All three are grate.

awesome, thanks..

i hope you fix the article to accomodate what Gary and Chilly1 have said.. :)

Ok thx guys for the feedback, I will do the amends when I get home gotta rush to work now! Glad you enjoyed them!

These articles rock dude, nice work.

Absolutely needed Howto! Excellent ... Excellent! :toast:
Make the changes suggested by the pros ... and ... then, we can all start our DIY systems! Thank you .... :)

that is one awesome guide mate, definate sticky material

my question is, for some of the temporary connectors, what do u use to ensure it's seal proof? I assume there's teflon tape equivalent? or barb sealants?

Thank YOU!!!!

those guides answered so many questions that I've had bout phase change, hell, once I get some $$$ to play wit I might try to dabble into it :p

that is the best eva
i think that there was a need for the how to guides to be updated
this will make peoples life much easier
thax especially mine

Excelent,thanks LardeArse :toast:

Thx guys, very happy they go down well with you :)
Corrections have been done, thx to Chilly1 and Gary.
EmineM I get most of the stuff from a refrigeration shop locally, with the xception of the flex hose.
Ragnoarok, which temporary connections are you talking about? The flare connections or the charge hose? For the flare connections, you can just tighten them real tight and it wouldn't leak, at least I've not encountered yet. but I do know some guys use gaskets in between the joints and also some kind of "glue" on the threads.
For the pressure hose, there are rubber gaskets, which will be pressed down like an "O"-ring when you tighten it onto the connection.
I've not changed the cap tube of the Prommie before and do not know the stock length. So if anyone knows the length to add or its original length, then it would be nice to add that in.

Well done LardArse
:toast:

ah okay, with regard to the flare, so just do it up real tight? just wondering coz it's bare metal against metal :)

and the charge hose with schrader already has an o ring inside from that i gather?

yes, real tight like using the scissors will do fine as long as the flare you made is nice and round and suitably sized.
The charge hose already has an "O-ring" inside but you should double check :)

great, I already got a whole set of piping and flaring tools already (left overs from dad's DIY plumbing), I will give it a go this weekend

once again awesome awesome guides..

nice guide man.....what an effort....

Very good articles!!
Only 100 bucks for such an awesome cooling unit :)

btw: What's the price of a vacuumpump, like yours? And is there a wide difference among pulling the vacuum with the vaccumpump, or one/two compressors?

Definitly goint to make phase change more mainstream.

Quote:

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Originally posted by cold_ice
Very good articles!!
Only 100 bucks for such an awesome cooling unit :)

btw: What's the price of a vacuumpump, like yours? And is there a wide difference among pulling the vacuum with the vaccumpump, or one/two compressors?

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I bought mine for USD $70. You can pull a vacuum longer like overnight with a vacuum pump but not with some compressors which will get too hot and shut off. Which means better evac with a vacuum pump.

isn't the insulation a little overkill for -30C?

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Originally posted by zabomb4163
isn't the insulation a little overkill for -30C?

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Well your putting hundreds of dollers worth of equipment, i'd rather it saved then wrecked. The extra touch is needed therefore :)

Quote:

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Originally posted by zabomb4163
isn't the insulation a little overkill for -30C?

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It all depends on where you are, 90% humidity is a formidable foe ;)

Quote:

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Originally posted by LardArse
I bought mine for USD $70. You can pull a vacuum longer like overnight with a vacuum pump but not with some compressors which will get too hot and shut off. Which means better evac with a vacuum pump.

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Ok thx
How strong the vacuum pump should be?

What happens if your vaccum pump don't have oil in it?

Um it won't pull a vacuum might break it?

I can't remember the specs of my current one think it is 2 CFM.
Well no oil = no lubrication and motor will be in great pain.

In a rotary vane pump, the oil seals the vanes, helping it to achieve deeper vacuum. If the oil level is even a little bit low, it won't pump as well as it should. Whatsmore, when the oil starts to get milky looking (from absorbed moisture) it won't pump as well. Manufacturers recommend that the oil be changed after each use. Only use vacuum pump oil. Any other type of oil will not do the job and may damage the pump.

CFM rating is only important if you are working on big systems and pulling vacuum through large hoses and fittings. On these small systems CFM rating is irrelevant. Micron rating is what matters.

These guides are really great

I saw guides generally about teories.. these are something
for me a new , there I can read about building vapor
phase cooling from other way - practical ( how to
use tools etc. ) and it's very helpful with photos :)

Are you going to write new articles ? ;)

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It all depends on where you are, 90% humidity is a formidable foe

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If the room air is 75F/24C at 90%RH, then condensate will form on any surface which is 72F/22.5C or lower. 90% humidity is indeed a formidable foe. Dehumidifying the room with a dehumidifier or A/C is very strongly recommended.

Maybe Peter Vandamned could make a dutch translation?

I'm planning a little project for my upcoming vacation, but I'm pretty much a Vaporphase noob.

I did ready lots of threads here sice I first came here. But there are many technical english terms wich I don't know the dutch word for.

So It would come in handy :)

grtz ns_ripper.

btw, keep up the good working guy's! You guys are godlike to me ;)

I cant see any of those guides now, brings up the site but not the guides.

TDF.

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Originally posted by TheDogFather
I cant see any of those guides now, brings up the site but not the guides.

TDF.

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Hmm, it works from my side :confused:

Works here...

50 cm square is one HELL of a big evaporator...lol...i'm sure it's a typo. Awsome guide :banana:

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Originally posted by stasiu
50 cm square is one HELL of a big evaporator...lol...i'm sure it's a typo. Awsome guide :banana:

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Well I was also trying to cool the whole mobo with that :D

I'll amend that in a bit. Thx for the spot!

:slobber: how much money and time did u spend to do all that stuff. :rolleyes:

so much information in here, EVERYONE who wants to DIY a phase change system should read this :P

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Originally posted by hrhrhrfoot
so much information in here, EVERYONE who wants to DIY a phase change system should read this :P

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i agree i am about to take a swing at pahase change and this exactly what i was looking for. :banana:

ladarse u r0x :toast:

In the guide about a prommy on gfx all the pics are dead :(

I think the pics might or might not be around, hopefully I can find the backup to replace them. Thx for letting me know :)

Very good guide. Thanx a lot for your effort!!! :banana:
Keep up the good work. Maybe I'm going to try to make one myself this summer!

great guides ;)

btw the pics on the mounting a prommy on a gpu are not working

All are great, and have helped me alot when I had lots of questions.

But I have a last question:D. when you see that we can find it at teck hoe, what do you meen!?!?! I need that seal string, but cant find it!

I'm sorry, that was supposed to be tidbit for the local/Singaporean readers, Teck Hoe is one of the main A/C suppliers in Sinagpore.

excellent..helped me out alot!

excellent guides LardArse. lots of pictures with grat notes. A+ for you man :toast:

New Dual-Evap guide is up :)
http://www.vr-zone.com/?i=1227&s=1

What can I say? Great guide..

This is a very great and clean guide, congrats Lardarse :)
Just a question i got about this part of the guide :
"After the overnight vacuum, close both valves and switch the hose from the vacuum pump to refrigerant R22 or the refrigerant you want to charge with. R22 is good taking way moisture as it has quite a high affinity for it. Break the vacuum by opening up the high side valve to about 10 PSI. Leave it for an hour or so, then vacuum for another hour"

How much refrigerant will this procedure suck? 10 psi x 1 hour, I only got a 750ml R22 bottle, dunno if it will be enaugh for a triple vacuum+ system fill :?:

Sorry perhaps that was a lil misleading, what I meant was break the vaccum with a bit of R22 ~10 PSI and leave it for 1 hour or so with the valves closed and then vaccum agaion.

Phew ;) !

Perhaps this is asking to much but could you perhaps make printable versions (with images) of these reviews?

Shamino... i have read the basic guide from your website..

me total newb in phase change... heh

& my english is not that good either

Can you correct my DYI drawing ? maybe i get it wrong :(

I'm looking forward to do this DYI Phase change cooling next... :toast:

thank you,
tictac

http://69.93.183.37/802/26/upload/p668348.gif

Looks good

tictac, looks good and just the way I do it!

BTW, mounting Hole database for the convenience of people DIYing evaps or adapting waterblocks or Vapochills to fit the new sockets. Includes Graphics cards as well.
http://www.vr-zone.com/?i=1356&s=1

Thanx shamino... :toast:

hey shamino, that dual-evap guide was killer! - same as the other guides, really helps getting us noobs a foundation of knowledge to base our own "experiments" on :).
on checking the evaps you made in there, i was wondering how good they are, since they seem to be easier to build. the temps your system offers with those seem good, but do you have a compare like with using another evap, the drilled ones of your cascade for example? how good are these (and how much of a difference, if any, did your old style evaps deliver) at holding the temps under a longer period of heavy load (sp 32m or a bunch of loops of 3d05) ?

you wrote that on your first try the captube was clogged during brazing when running it inside the suction line for subcooling. what do you think caused that - the brazing of the captube on the innermost "shell", brazing during the following shells or brazing the suction line / flex to the evap?. if it was the first, you might have left a small length of captube into the innermost shell (if you didn't do that already) so it wouldn't be so close to the brazing... (doh what a clumsy description i made here.... ;) ) - just a thought

The caps evap work great with a thicker base like 5mm + if you squeeze a lot of caps into it. I would say not a big difference from my older evaps.
I think the wisest thing would be to braze the cap tube onto the second final cap just enough to secure it in place. The cap tube is less likely to melt or get brazed shut this way.

Shamino, still can't find the pictures of the GPU mod for Prommies? Do you know anybody else who has a simmilar guide with pictures?

Thanks.

Don't you need to reclaim the original refrigerant when regassing a prommie?

Extremely helpful as I am trying to build one.

Keep up the good work man...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by arj

Shamino, still can't find the pictures of the GPU mod for Prommies? Do you know anybody else who has a simmilar guide with pictures?

Thanks.

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Hi I've retook some pictures and updated the Prommie GPU pictures:

http://www.vr-zone.com.sg/Shamino/promigpu/promi3.JPG

http://www.vr-zone.com.sg/Shamino/promigpu/promi4.JPG

With regards to a dual Evap system...
Can't you just put the evap heads in serial? Condenser->Dryer->CapTube->CPU->vacuum line->GPU->more vacuum line->vac-side of compressor?
Seems easier than splitting the lines up post-dryer!

Nice pages, though!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FoxTrottZero

With regards to a dual Evap system...
Can't you just put the evap heads in serial? Condenser->Dryer->CapTube->CPU->vacuum line->GPU->more vacuum line->vac-side of compressor?
Seems easier than splitting the lines up post-dryer!

Nice pages, though!!!

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tehe second evap wont get very cold

Oh, bummer...
I guess that makes sense. Just seems like the suction lines are frozen clean up to the intake on the compresser or atleast almost... Looks to me like a lot of the refrigerant is boiling off way after the wee little evaporator.

Also... on a split dual evaporator assembly like the one discussed in this thread, how much overclock would I lose by splitting up my flow like that?

wow, until now phase change was far beyond my comprehension, thanks very much sir :thumbsup:

COol, very great articles, maybe I will try to make one in the sommer vacation :D

But I have a question then, if you put in a bigger condenser, would it cool the whole system down even more?

Very nice guides :) I'm kinda starting to understand how these phase change cooling systems work. If I were to make one myself, how much would it cost me in total on average (excluding the tools)?

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Originally Posted by _Eduard_

Very nice guides :) I'm kinda starting to understand how these phase change cooling systems work. If I were to make one myself, how much would it cost me in total on average (excluding the tools)?

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Depends, do you accept using used parts? If you do, then i would suggest making a visit to your nearest refrigeration-tech/shop whatever and ask them if they have something lying around :). This way you can make nice finds and if you are very lucky you just need to buy a new filter and maybe some capillary-tube. If you are looking for new parts i'm sure someone from NL will answer you :).

sub cooling and superheat calculations how to
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=47815

good work LardArse, i will need this guides

Hi

I've been using these a lot to learn about refrigerents:

http://www.ashrae.org/content/ASHRAE...799333_347.pdf

http://www.heatcraft.com/resources/refrigtable.asp

and finally this great program:

http://www.et.dtu.dk/coolpack/UK/index.html

Perhaps some of you could use them too..

Great links my man! Thx for the informative addition!
That proggie looks like its very useful... but dauntingly complex at first glance :D

#82

It IS quite complex.. there is a lot of functions that i still don't use.. and also an add on module which i guess can emulate systems.. but haven't played with it yet..

Great info on there :toast: .
There any guide to a home made simple direct die block ?
regards

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Marvin

Great info on there :toast: .
There any guide to a home made simple direct die block ?
regards

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Here's how I do up simple but great working evaps:
http://www.vr-zone.com.sg/?i=1227&s=2
Been on cap evaps ever since my first :)

thanks shamino, that is a simple evaporator and would fit perfectly on my almost finish phase change :
http://premium1.uploadit.org/Marvin/P1010073.JPG

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Originally Posted by Marvin

thanks shamino, that is a simple evaporator and would fit perfectly on my almost finish phase change :

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No prob, lookin very nice there.
For cheap and effective evap housing, here's an option
http://www.vr-zone.com/?i=1627&s=1

Man, this is super guides...I don't know what could be if i didn't read them.
Thank you very much :)) There should be more such good people as you.

Wow thanks, thats a great compliment. Glad you enjoyed them! :toast:

Sorry to bump this thread, but I gotta. I am very new at DIY Phase Change, and am about to very soon start my building of a basic DIY Phase change system. When I first decided that i was going to undertake this venture, I went onlinbe and learned all I could about refrigeration basic. THAN I went to learn about phase changing, and then to evaporators, etc... I have to say that those guides are great. Especially in the order they are in. A n00b at this sort of thing should learn about those subjects in that order. Excellent, I am going to read all of those and learn even more!

Cant wait to start on my project.
Thanks!
:toast:

I agree =) I've got most of the pieces together to make my first run at this, just need to find the correct gauges so I can do this safely. Maybe by this weekend I'll have a rough product for pressure testing.
Great Guides, shows all the tools needed.

waaahaay!!! i can finally post!

well...i am a complete n00b at all this phase change stuff but i wanted to build one. After coming to this forum i almost completely gave up hope on building one of these systems as it looked sooooo complicated but after reading your guides Lardass (lol) there is still a little hope hope for me :D

i think when too many "T"s came into the guide you kinda lost me a bit :confused:

one main question i have is about the evaporator, because i always thaught there would be two pipes/hoses connected to it, one for getting the refridgerant in and one for evaporating it back out into the system, but from your guide pictures i got a little confused as i only saw one hose :confused:
and all those "T"s did not help :confused: :confused:

anyway i'll read up more i guess, one more think i'm going on holiday tommorow down the far east, any suggestions on things i could pick up for cheap, i know i may run accross a condenser because the use AC's alot (very hot)

Any way, piece out dudes!

Great guides there, i'm slowly reading up and learning but the cost of tools is a little daunting before i even begin to look at costs of materials

the single hose you see has a cappilair into it(metering device)
its through that the refridgerant enters the evap :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zub

waaahaay!!! i can finally post!

well...i am a complete n00b at all this phase change stuff but i wanted to build one. After coming to this forum i almost completely gave up hope on building one of these systems as it looked sooooo complicated but after reading your guides Lardass (lol) there is still a little hope hope for me :D

i think when too many "T"s came into the guide you kinda lost me a bit :confused:

one main question i have is about the evaporator, because i always thaught there would be two pipes/hoses connected to it, one for getting the refridgerant in and one for evaporating it back out into the system, but from your guide pictures i got a little confused as i only saw one hose :confused:
and all those "T"s did not help :confused: :confused:

anyway i'll read up more i guess, one more think i'm going on holiday tommorow down the far east, any suggestions on things i could pick up for cheap, i know i may run accross a condenser because the use AC's alot (very hot)

Any way, piece out dudes!

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most guys run the capillary tube inside the suction line, thats why it appears to only have one line to the evap.

this makes a cleaner looking job but also has the benifit of lowering the temp of the refrigerant in the cap tube which increases capacity.

ps: lardarse evap design is cheap to make and a very good design,

oh i see......finally i'm beginning to understand more.

luckily the place where i'm staying at for my holiday (our holiday home) we are currently thinking of removing our AC as where selling the house, so i'll make sure i bring some parts back from the AC. the compresser, condenser and probably the filter.

ps - in that guide, is that a self made filter??? how do you make one? is it just a capillary tube turning into a larger pipe and then a cappillary tube? :confused: but that seems a little too simple :D and also where in the world do you get solid copper blocks for the evap? i live in UK London so scrap yards are extremely rare believe me so maybe getting the parts from my old AC will probably be my only chance of grabbing the equipment i need to set up my phase cooler (just hope they dont throw it out befroe i get there!)

not bad reading at all :toast:

I've just got a prometeia mach 2 cooling unit and didn't know how to properly insulate the cpu and motherboard. Thanks to you now I know :D Super guides! Thanks :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zub

oh i see......finally i'm beginning to understand more.

luckily the place where i'm staying at for my holiday (our holiday home) we are currently thinking of removing our AC as where selling the house, so i'll make sure i bring some parts back from the AC. the compresser, condenser and probably the filter.

ps - in that guide, is that a self made filter??? how do you make one? is it just a capillary tube turning into a larger pipe and then a cappillary tube? :confused: but that seems a little too simple :D and also where in the world do you get solid copper blocks for the evap? i live in UK London so scrap yards are extremely rare believe me so maybe getting the parts from my old AC will probably be my only chance of grabbing the equipment i need to set up my phase cooler (just hope they dont throw it out befroe i get there!)

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hey there, I do not know what you mean? if you mean the blue drier/filter, since its 1/4" to 1/4" I need to attach the cap tube to it somehow so i just crimped a 1/4" aginst a cap tube and braze up!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zub

oh i see......finally i'm beginning to understand more.

luckily the place where i'm staying at for my holiday (our holiday home) we are currently thinking of removing our AC as where selling the house, so i'll make sure i bring some parts back from the AC. the compresser, condenser and probably the filter.

ps - in that guide, is that a self made filter??? how do you make one? is it just a capillary tube turning into a larger pipe and then a cappillary tube? :confused: but that seems a little too simple :D and also where in the world do you get solid copper blocks for the evap? i live in UK London so scrap yards are extremely rare believe me so maybe getting the parts from my old AC will probably be my only chance of grabbing the equipment i need to set up my phase cooler (just hope they dont throw it out befroe i get there!)

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Ummm, I think a whole-house central A/C unit may be just a little too large for our applications :p: