RunTek Pride -100.6C

My cascade is finally up and running. It has taken me forever, but the time spent was well worth it.
I received a bottle of Chilly1s special blend yestarday. After charging I fired it up. Pressure gauges were going one way and temp probes were going another. What a nightmare, I was so lost. At this point there was only one thing to do. I pulled out my trusty T.E.C.H. Method Troubleshooting book by Gary Lloyd. It is an awesome book. I was damn glad I had it. I've already spent hundreds of dollars on phone calls to Chilly1 the past couple of months, so I decided not to bother him for a change. It is a true troubleshooters book. Thanks Gary, your book came in very handy. Everyone who plans on building any type of Vapor compression system would be wise to purchase one of Gary's books along with the basic refrigeration c-d.

My cascade has a couple of bugs, but I suppose that is normal. I am so happy with it I could spit.:D

I know I can make it into the -100C club with no problem. I hope. I did see -99c but wasn't quick enough on the camera.

Much thanks to "CHILLY1" for everything on this project. It is his design with slight modifications by Runtek. :toast:

The evaporator was made by Chilly1 and Fugger. Thanks guys.

Thanks go to pc-ice for donating extra parts he had.

And as always Mark Willet (Herefishy) was there to help when I needed it. He has stuck by Team Puss from day one. Austin Industrial Refrigeration Rulzes. I am an honorary employee of Marks company. Thanks to Mark I am able to buy parts here in Texas. Texas has strict laws about enviormental protection ;)

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...threadid=30772 "Work in Progress"

http://home.comcast.net/~rbmccall200...8/site1561.jpg


http://home.comcast.net/~rbmccall200...8/site1559.jpg

looks great -- very nice work!
:toast:

how about some more pics of that baby???

:)

Looks good, might have to get me that book and cd :)

Nice work, your design is close to mine.

I hope the block serves you well (brass one in my avatar)

Between runs when mine is idle, I put my evap up in the air and I take the pev apart so no moisture sets inside.

I start up the first stage and let it run for a few minutes and then turn on the second stage. I set the pev for about 25 psi and wait for it to drop to around -50 then I will pull it down to 12 psi or so. I usually go by compressor temp and how much cooling is getting back as my guide to how far to go.

If you get moisture in the valve it will cause the valve to stick in spots.

find a safe spot to put the cap, spring and piece that sits between spring and diaphragm between usage, when you thaw out and doing nothing.

Its safe to adjust the valve at any time, just watch for ice dropping off onto the mobo.

You can put a lot of pressure on that block without fear of hurting it, the top is strong.

Dial in your first stage for capacity, get lots of cooling back to the compressor, it should be too much with the second stage turned off. The compressor should ice up with second stage off. dont do it, just giving you idea of your target.

Hope that helps some, just tips from my experiances so far.

Also, get the room a little colder and you will have -100c easy or just pull into a vacuum a little more.

Hi Runmc... *very* nice. I was wondering why you weren't hitting me up on my R-13/R-23.. LOL.

I'm seeing -87 to -90C on my machine... It may be better, but the last time I fooled with it, it was hooked up to Donebalp's computer, and I was charging it under load. Under some serious voltage increases... according to Donebalp... We were maintaing about -75C (-100F), with my 1/4 hp compressors. :D Of course, I monitor evap temperature at the outlet of the evaporator....

hmmmmm... I'm kinda curious about the *special blend*. I recall you telling me you had mixed propane with the R-13... I couldn't understand why one would do that, myself....

What interstage temp are you maintaining?

Hi pc ice. I understand that R-134A is mixed with R-23 to help oil miscibility, but other than that... could you explain why you add R-290, or anything else to the refrigerant charge?

R-13 has a saturation temperature of about -90F to -100F (without a P/T chart in my hand) at atmospheric pressure, whereas say R-404A has a saturation temp of about -50F.

How would one determine the actual characteristics of a proposed blend of refrigerants?

Good job, runmc. :toast:

-100C is asking a lot for R13. This is generally used for -80C or so. Ethylene is the next step. And then there is R14. :D

Quote:

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Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
-100C is asking a lot for R13. This is generally used for -80C or so. Ethylene is the next step. And then there is R14. :D

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Yeah... Loaded up and hot, I'm running -75C (with R-13/R-23). but unloaded (as I'm sure that Runmc is even demonstrating, here), I will observe the near -90C temperatures.

Cheers!

... and another toast to runmc :toast:

NOW, Runmc... let's see some benchies..... :D

Quote:

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Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
Good job, runmc. :toast:

-100C is asking a lot for R13. This is generally used for -80C or so. Ethylene is the next step. And then there is R14. :D

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Actually the gas he is running is a blend of R1150/R508/R290.
And it will do unloaded -118C When tuned properly.

Quote:

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Originally posted by herefishy
Hi pc ice. I understand that R-134A is mixed with R-23 to help oil miscibility, but other than that... could you explain why you add R-290, or anything else to the refrigerant charge?

R-13 has a saturation temperature of about -90F to -100F (without a P/T chart in my hand) at atmospheric pressure, whereas say R-404A has a saturation temp of about -50F.

How would one determine the actual characteristics of a proposed blend of refrigerants?

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R290 in conjuction with Hi pressure refrigerants the low pressure refrigerant(290) can be dismissed (Usually) when it comes to its performance in the evaporator it never changes state till it gets to the accumulator, It will serve two purposes one) to mix with and facillitate the return of the oil and two) to help cool the compressor. I add very little R290 to these systems usually about 2 to 4% of the system charge. When you add R290 to a system running R507/404/134 ect it is also to assist in the return of the oil as the oil with the addition of r290 has better characteristics at low temperatures and I get less oil logging at -40 to -50.

Chilly, didn't I send you a spell checker for your Birthday? ;)

Edited by Kazoo

Quote:

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Originally posted by herefishy
Yeah... Loaded up and hot, I'm running -75C (with R-13/R-23). but unloaded (as I'm sure that Runmc is even demonstrating, here), I will observe the near -90C temperatures.

Cheers!

... and another toast to runmc :toast:

NOW, Runmc... let's see some benchies..... :D

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With the PEV once the system is fully charge the differance between Loaded and unloaded will be less than 5 degrees because it can be adjusted on the fly.

Wow! That is one impressive piece of work. Congratulations!

nice setup Runmc

welcome in the cascade-club:D

:toast:

Quote:

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Originally posted by Tom Holck
nice setup Runmc

welcome in the cascade-club:D

:toast:

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Thank you Tom :D It's great to be working with you.

I'm sorry to tell you this, but I always thought your car was a Toyota, Corolla.:eek:

Now I know why your having your picture taken with it.. It is awesome!!! Cool Car..

Looks complex... Where did you get that thermometer? I need to get one of those.

Quote:

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Originally posted by bluestar88
Looks complex... Where did you get that thermometer? I need to get one of those.

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The small white ones, I got a Radio Shack but they only go down to -55F. The yellow one is a Fluke 52 II. I got it off of E-Bay but you can buy them at many online stores. Just do a search on Fluke:)

Fluke is very good but costs an arm or a leg;)

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Originally posted by hatemi
Fluke is very good but costs an arm or a leg;)

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I found mine on E-Bay for $125. It was in the original package with the plastic shield on the display.

The radio shacks are great unless you going below -55. The only problem with the Radio Shack probe is that it's fat and round.

Quote:

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Originally posted by chilly1
Actually the gas he is running is a blend of R1150/R508/R290.
And it will do unloaded -118C When tuned properly.

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:slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber:




Dammit! Now I need to go to the store again. :p:

Excellent! The R-1150 tells it all. I assume you're having to maintain a -50F to -40F interstage evaporating temperature, huh?

Thanks, chilly.

Runmc.... you lucky dawg... :D

Quote:

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Originally posted by herefishy
:slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber:




Dammit! Now I need to go to the store again. :p:

Excellent! The R-1150 tells it all. I assume you're having to maintain a -50F to -40F interstage evaporating temperature, huh?

Thanks, chilly.

Runmc.... you lucky dawg... :D

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I do -118C on load, pure R1150 :D
The interstage have to bee below -50 C to be able to take some load. If it's higher, the temp drop from -118 C to -91 C in 3 minutes:rolleyes:


And the load that makes this happend? 170 W:slobber: :D

Why use a blend, why not pure R1150?

With P4EE @ 4.68 1.88v, looping 3DM Lobby (dunno how many watts), I can keep evap exit temp at -94C, 5-6 PSI on low side with R1150. Interstage is cooled by R22 and under the load will rise from -40C to around -37C putting low stage high side at around 250 PSI. I have put in a little amount of R290 as suggested by Chilly and it doesn't really affect my temperature much, but putting some more kills temps quite quickly.
Tom, so your Interstage is kept @ -50+C even with 170w load on low stage?

I am using 507 in my first stage and my interstage temp was only at -30F when I reach -99C.
I made the mistake of buying the wrong temp controller (on - off) for the low stage . This controller turns the low stage off when the interstage reaches -30.

Anyone have any suggestions for another controller or a work around?

Quote:

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Originally posted by Tom Holck
I do -118C on load, pure R1150 :D
The interstage have to bee below -50 C to be able to take some load. If it's higher, the temp drop from -118 C to -91 C in 3 minutes:rolleyes:


And the load that makes this happend? 170 W:slobber: :D

Why use a blend, why not pure R1150?

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The r290 is for oil return oil, The 508 was added to reduce head neither will affect the temperature much a few degrees and the amp draw will drop by 30 to 40 %

Quote:

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Originally posted by runmc
I am using 507 in my first stage and my interstage temp was only at -30F when I reach -99C.
I made the mistake of buying the wrong temp controller (on - off) for the low stage . This controller turns the low stage off when the interstage reaches -30.

Anyone have any suggestions for another controller or a work around?

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Put a timer in its place or a switch and when it reaches -50 switch it on..

use a little R290 2 or 3 % for thinning the oil and providing additional cooling to the compressor.

Quote:

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Originally posted by chilly1
Put a timer in its place or a switch and when it reaches -50 switch it on..

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I had to send Chilly1 pictures of my pressure switch, temperature controller switch. and low stage relay.

Chilly1 took these pictures into Photoshop and drew wires connecting all of the picture. that was cool :cool:

Chilly1 If I resend the pictures can you wire in a switch for me?? LMAO:D

Of course you know I am dead serious.:confused:

If I go to H.D. right now, what type of switch can I pick up?

Hi Runmc,

In regard to the bottoming out of your interstage thermostat, have you tried to put a resistor in series or parallel in the sensor circuit?

You could select a resistor that would adjust the sensor reading say, 30degF, and the device would operate in the <-30F range.

Cheers! :D

Quote:

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Originally posted by runmc
Anyone have any suggestions for another controller or a work around?

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Put a solid state or normal relay behind the controller, and use the normally closed contact of that one.

A relay behind the controller is something you want anyway. The inrush currents of even a small compressor can ruin the relays of the controller.

Hi Dabit... Runmc and I have employed the Ranco TC1100 controller. Typically, it IS utilized for Line voltage, and up to 12 or 15 amps, if I recall... I beleive that we investigated it.

We have employed it in the *heat* mode, to energize the second stage on a drop in temperature.

Your idea of using the *cooling* mode with a normally closed relay is a great idea, however.... I'll keep that in mind, when I switch my first stage to R-404A ;)

Cheers!

OH! wait a sec... when the interstage gets <-30, it goes *whack*!....

nevermind... I figure an appropriate resitor....

Chilly1 gave me a couple more of his tweakin tips and I broke -100.6C (-149.8F) Actually I reached -101.4C. I do have a picture but it's blurry. I would rather claim -100C with a clean picture.:D

I may be maxed out , I don't know. I'll keep tweakin.

Caution - I started my low stage and my first stage wasn't below 0C. That was a no-no for my rig. Low stage pressure shot up to 500 psi before I could bat an eye. I wouldn't have noticed except something was making a whistling noise. I turned it off immediately.:eek:

Does anyone have an idea as to what was whistling? Is sounded like refrigerant whistling through the tubing.:confused:


http://home.comcast.net/~rbmccall200...8/site1561.jpg

-100!!!! :slobber:

Congrats Man

Myself, I can only dream about it ATM.

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Originally posted by hallowen
-100!!!! :slobber:

Congrats Man

Myself, I can only dream about it ATM.

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You'll get there!! Just stick around:D

Congrats, Ron. It just keeps getting better and better. :toast:

The whistling sound is the internal pressure relief valve in the compressor. It just saved your compressor from self-destructing. It gets your attention, doesn't it?... LOL

Quote:

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Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
Congrats, Ron. It just keeps getting better and better. :toast:

The whistling sound is the internal pressure relief valve in the compressor. It just saved your compressor from self-destructing. It gets your attention, doesn't it?... LOL

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LMAO:D


Yeah!! It got my attention!!!:eek:

It's not funny, but I'm LMAO @ Gary.:D


BTW - Gary Lloyd was the first guy that ever really helped me with refrigeration. It's been around a year ago now. We spent the entire weekend (3 days) online @ PhaseChange.com passing post back and forth constantly. He was teaching how to build my first chiller. It was awesome, I'll never forget those three days. I learned a ton. Thanks Gary for getting me started.:)

Gary's my hero :) He sized a cap tube for me when no one else seemed to care. Thanks man :toast:

EDIT:
congrats on the -100C. Quite an acomplishment. Now slap the sucka on a CPU and show us what it can do :D

Quote:

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Originally posted by herefishy
[B]We have employed it in the *heat* mode, to energize the second stage on a drop in temperature.

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Then why doesn't it work? I'm using my Eliwell EWPC-901 controller in heating mode also, with a negative hysteresis. Thus, the low stage kicks in at -35C (the real temp is lower then; the Eliwell reacts rather slow on tempchanges), and back out at -30C.

Quote:

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Your idea of using the *cooling* mode with a normally closed relay is a great idea, however.... I'll keep that in mind, when I switch my first stage to R-404A ;)

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It does have a disadvantage though: with electronic controllers the relay will be off (and the compressr on) for a few moments during startup, while the controller initialises.

Quote:

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Originally posted by DaBit
Then why doesn't it work?

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It is because the control has a low temperature range of no less than -30F. I am suggesting a resistor in the sensor circuit to uncalibrate the sensor by 30degF, in order to operate in the required range, since Runmc already has the control installed.

The control functions properly, but once the interstage temp gets below -30F, the control locks out.

Cheers!

Quote:

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Originally posted by DaBit
It does have a disadvantage though: with electronic controllers the relay will be off (and the compressr on) for a few moments during startup, while the controller initialises.

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What's the disadvantage with this condition (relay off and compressor on) for a few moments? Is it a high PSI concern?

Could be, could be not. That depends on the compressor, high side volume and speed of controller startup.

Quote:

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Originally posted by Hobocrow
What's the disadvantage with this condition (relay off and compressor on) for a few moments? Is it a high PSI concern?

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If you use a normally closed relay as soon as the current inrush the controller is open and the relay is not energised so the contacts running the second compressor are closed and this causes the second stage to run for a few moments until the controller energises. To counter act this delay use a 1 minute time delay(or what ever the on delay is of the timer) in series with the contacts on the temp controller this "Delay on make" timer will prevent the relay from energising until 1 min after the control contacts close.

Or use a HP cutout switch with automatic reset. You probably want such a switch anyway

Way to go Ron...I'm proud of ya' boy!! :) Keep up the good work with your RunTek Pride! :D

Chilly1, Thanks that makes sense. :)

What temperature are we sensing, and what are we trying to accomplish with this control? I don't understand the problem.

If I understand correctly this control senses interstage temperature and starts the low stage compressor. However, it has a lower limit which then shuts down the low stage compressor if the interstage gets below -30C. Is that correct, or am I reading this wrong?

Assuming that is indeed the problem, move the sensor. Put it on the suction line at the interstage outlet. If that spot gets too cold, move it down the suction line towards the compressor, until you find a spot that gets to about -25C but no lower.

At this point, I don't even know if they're talking about my controller. LOL :D

I'm was using my contoller (Ranco) to turn on the low stage when the first stage got to -30. It had a max of a 1F -30F degree differential, so I had it set to shut the low stage back off at 0.

On the box it says " Single stage with sensor range: -30F to +220F" -- Output SPDT relay "

The problem is that the controller turns the low stage off when temperature goes below -30F

The controller operates in two modes - heating and cooling. we had it operating in the heating mode.

Sorry, I was editing while you were posting. Please read my previous post again.

Brilliant idea.. Now that's common sense..;) Make do with what you have.

My only problem with your solution is that my sensor is buried inside of my cacoon. I would have to distroy my interstage insulation to get it out.

I bet you already thought of that and your editing your post again right now LMAO

I could get another probe and tie it into my controller though:cool:

Quote:

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I could get another probe and tie it into my controller though

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Sounds like a winner. :D

runmc what HW are you planing on taking this for a rid with my man??

Quote:

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Originally posted by runmc
My only problem with your solution is that my sensor is buried inside of my cacoon. I would have to distroy my interstage insulation to get it out.

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Hi Run,

You can probably order another sensor from Johnstone. They carry the Ranco TC controllers.

But since it is buried in the insulation, you do not wish to try to employ a resistor in the sensor circuit? Gee, a lot times I feel invisible, here. :p:

Maybe this sounds too easy for me, because I have a bunch of resistors of all values, in my kit. I'll likely be converting my cascade from R-23 to R-1150, with R-404 in my first stage and will probably experience the same problem (unless I just move my sensor, like Gary suggested, since my sensor location is serviceable... hehehehe :D ), and I'll give the results. But you will probably have your situation remedied, by then.

Cheers!

Quote:

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Originally posted by herefishy
Hi Run,

You can probably order another sensor from Johnstone. They carry the Ranco TC controllers.

But since it is buried in the insulation, you do not wish to try to employ a resistor in the sensor circuit? Gee, a lot times I feel invisible, here. :p:

Maybe this sounds too easy for me, because I have a bunch of resistors of all values, in my kit. I'll likely be converting my cascade from R-23 to R-1150, with R-404 in my first stage and will probably experience the same problem (unless I just move my sensor, like Gary suggested, since my sensor location is serviceable... hehehehe :D ), and I'll give the results. But you will probably have your situation remedied, by then.

Cheers!

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To you adding a resistor may be simple. For me, that means figuring something else out.:( My poor old brain needs a rest. It took me a week to hook the dang thing up in the first place and I had two of the best helping me... You and Chilly1:)

If you don't think it would be too complicated, and you already have it figured out, well then I'm game. Get yours working and then I'll do mine.:D

Simple enough..;)

Quote:

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Originally posted by paul007
runmc what HW are you planing on taking this for a rid with my man??

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Just the regular old stuff :(

Quote:

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Originally posted by runmc
At this point, I don't even know if they're talking about my controller. LOL :D

I'm was using my contoller (Ranco) to turn on the low stage when the first stage got to -30. It had a max of a 1F -30F degree differential, so I had it set to shut the low stage back off at 0.

On the box it says " Single stage with sensor range: -30F to +220F" -- Output SPDT relay "

The problem is that the controller turns the low stage off when temperature goes below -30F

The controller operates in two modes - heating and cooling. we had it operating in the heating mode.

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Sounds like Gary solved your problem :) ... and couldn't you still utilize the buried sensor for the "true temp" of the HX?

Are you using the Ranco controller in heat mode so as to get the largest Temp differential? :confused:

A temp controller in cooling mode turns on a compressor if whatever we are cooling gets warm. We want to do the opposite here, turning on the low stage compressor when the interstage gets cold.

Quote:

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Originally posted by Hobocrow
Sounds like Gary solved your problem :) ... and couldn't you still utilize the buried sensor for the "true temp" of the HX?

Are you using the Ranco controller in heat mode so as to get the largest Temp differential? :confused:

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Bill you have to think backwards to figure that one out. LMAO:D

The reason you use heat mode is because - You have a set point on the controller - the set point is where you want the second stage to turn off. Then you use the differential setting to tell the second stage when to turn on. The reason you would want it to turn off is because the first stage is letting the interstage get too hot.

Using 0 as you set point(set point is where the controller turns the second stage off) draw yourself a chart. Moving upward on your chart would be the cooling mode. +1 +2 +3 and so on. Moving downward on the chart from 0 would be the heating mode -1 -2 -3 and so on.

Think about it. If you have it set in the heating mode as the interstage gets colder the controller turns the low stage on as the interstage gets warmer the controller turns the low stage off.

If you were operating in the cooling mode it would be opposite.


That's how I use the controller in my application. If there is another way, let me know.

In the heating mode, if your set point is 0, that's when low stage will cut off and you differential is set at -20 that is when the low stage will come on The differential range can be set up from1 -30 degrees

I had my setpoint at 0 and the differential set at -30

To my way of thinking, if you were operating in the cooling mode and your setpoint was 0 then the low stage wouldn't turn on untill the controller reached lets say +20, by then my friend, you would be :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: out of luck

Did that make one bit of sense???

:confused:;)

Ron, Looks like I should have posted that question over in the Easter Contest forum! :D :D

I understand what you just explained , you did it very well, but I don't get it yet! Sometimes I'm a real Bonehead .... :) Off to make some charts and do some research .....

Nice dude.... -100c that would be something.

Quote:

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Originally posted by Hobocrow
I understand what you just explained , you did it very well, but I don't get it yet!

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In *COOLING* mode the compressor would be turned ON with a rise in temperature. As the (interstage) warmed, the compressor would turn ON with a thermostat configured for *cooling*.

This is undesireable, because when the interstage gets (too) warm, we want the interstage to turn *OFF* in order to protect the system in an overload or fault situation.

In *HEAT* mode, the compressor is turned OFF with a *rise* in temperature (in order to protect the system). Accordingly, when the interstage temperature reaches the LOW setpoint (of the controller), the compressor will then be energized when the interstage is at a desireable (cold) temperature.

Cheers!

Good explanation Herefishy!!:D

You summed it up nicely, and said it a way, that a first timer could understand.;)

I read about using ethylene and propane.

A guy I know has a store and sells all sorts of consumer electronics (also fridges :D ) and repairs them.

I don't know anymore what stuff he used those day's. I know it isn't for sale anymore due to cfk's. But I know it didn't burn when you lighted a fire on it.

With propane and ethylene in my system, I wouldn't even feel safe when smokign a cigaret in front of my pc :D

you never know, a leak kan happen.


are these things relevant? or am I Paranoid? :D

Quote:

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Originally posted by ns_ripper
I read about using ethylene and propane.

A guy I know has a store and sells all sorts of consumer electronics (also fridges :D ) and repairs them.

I don't know anymore what stuff he used those day's. I know it isn't for sale anymore due to cfk's. But I know it didn't burn when you lighted a fire on it.

With propane and ethylene in my system, I wouldn't even feel safe when smokign a cigaret in front of my pc :D

you never know, a leak kan happen.


are these things relevant? or am I Paranoid? :D

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:explode: U know soking will kill U....

Quote:

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Originally posted by ns_ripper
I read about using ethylene and propane.

A guy I know has a store and sells all sorts of consumer electronics (also fridges :D ) and repairs them.

I don't know anymore what stuff he used those day's. I know it isn't for sale anymore due to cfk's. But I know it didn't burn when you lighted a fire on it.

With propane and ethylene in my system, I wouldn't even feel safe when smokign a cigaret in front of my pc :D

you never know, a leak kan happen.


are these things relevant? or am I Paranoid? :D

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Paranoid, Thes esystems have very little gas in them. Only enough to do the job. If you have a larger displacment you can move a larger volume so you need less refrigerant and faster flow rates for cooling so we use larger compressors not for the larger motor but the larger displacment.

Chilly,

I replaced my 1/2hp first stage night before, with that 1hp compressor you pointed out to me.
I saw a degree or two improvement, but more importantly my interstage condensing temps held at -42 in and -42 out. I've finally got it mounted to mobo and first free second I get I'll put a load to it.:D





http://www.teampuss.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=25

You may want to leave access to the CPEV for fine tuning while under load. Once the system is loaded up monitor the temperature and pressure in the evaporator. If you lower the pressure it will result in a lower temperature until the load balances the amount of refrigerant boiling in the evap. The limiting factor is the temperature of teh second stage compressor, as it becomes unloaded the superheat will increase causing less cooling to return to the compressor.

Quote:

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Originally posted by chilly1
Paranoid, Thes esystems have very little gas in them. Only enough to do the job. If you have a larger displacment you can move a larger volume so you need less refrigerant and faster flow rates for cooling so we use larger compressors not for the larger motor but the larger displacment.

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ah, k.

thnx for clearing that up.

Quote:

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Originally posted by runmc
more importantly my interstage condensing temps held at -42 in and -42 out. I've finally got it mounted to mobo and first free second I get I'll put a load to it.:

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Did you also change the temp controller?? if so, to what? :)

Quote:

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Originally posted by Hobocrow
Did you also change the temp controller?? if so, to what? :)

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I left the temp controller out. I haven't found a replacement yet, so now I start it manuely and rely on a pressure switch to shut off low stage incase pressure get too high.

I got the cascade running last night and fired up my computer. All I could manage was a beautiful dark black screen.:( Haven't figured out the problem yet.:mad:

But I will.;)

Quote:

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Originally posted by runmc
Haven't figured out the problem yet.:mad:
But I will.;)

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I know you will, Bud ... Sorry, bout my bad manners earlier, I didn't memtion that your system looks great ... and it does! :)

Quote:

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Originally posted by runmc
I left the temp controller out. I haven't found a replacement yet, so now I start it manuely and rely on a pressure switch to shut off low stage incase pressure get too high.

I got the cascade running last night and fired up my computer. All I could manage was a beautiful dark black screen.:( Haven't figured out the problem yet.:mad:

But I will.;)

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In about a week I will have a controller that will do everything you need and display the interstage temps to -40C

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Originally posted by chilly1
In about a week I will have a controller that will do everything you need and display the interstage temps to -40C

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Let me know where you got it.

It doesn't shut the low stage off if interstage temps drop below -40 does it?

It is a sporlan control, manafactured by carol. you need a hand held programmer to set it up... Looking for a serial connector and software for it now.///

could anyone provide me and other noob members a summarized list of all freons, their rated temp, pressure, oil, and anything else about them...
thanks a lot

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Originally posted by nietsni3
could anyone provide me and other noob members a summarized list of all freons, their rated temp, pressure, oil, and anything else about them...
thanks a lot

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If you go to the top of this page, go down to sticky # 5 ( Where to find what you need to know or smth like that) anyways, in there is a post by Russell_hg with a link " P/T " , It everything that you are looking for, I think. :)

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Originally posted by Hobocrow
I know you will, Bud ... Sorry, bout my bad manners earlier, I didn't memtion that your system looks great ... and it does! :)

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I figured out my no boot problem last night.

I had sprayed the socket area of my mobo with conformal coat(that was something I had never done before) "NOT"

Evidently the C.C. had kept the processor from making good contact in the socket plug. I cleaned it out good with Acetone and it booted right up:D

Thank You Lord :D

HoboCrow - as for your question about the pressure switch, I don't see why you couldn't use a switch with a lower cutoff point if it make you feel better. My low stage does creap up to 350psi sometimes, during startup. I'm glad mine is set for 400psi.

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Originally posted by Farbror
:explode: U know smoking will kill U....

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