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After my first attemp on phase change cooling its time for something bigger.
So I ordered an Embraco-Aspera Refrigerator Unit
https://i.imgur.com/nRf8djx.jpg
It cost me 135 Euros + VAT.
NEK2150GK 1/2+ hp
Condenser (3/4 hp)
Fan 250mm 16w
Receiver-Drier
Steel Base
I will add
Sight Glass
Desuperheatercoil
Low/High pressure Gauses
Low/High filling/service ports
Accumulator
https://i.imgur.com/1jBWVJj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lzgzjq2.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7TRqxUa.jpg
My question is the lenght of captube.
I want 250W-300W load capacity
I will use 0.031'' cap tube
How many feets of captube will I have to use?
I will try 8.5' of 0.031 captube, sounds ok?
Really nice condensing unit, guesstimating cap tube length... I don't use cap tube so my guess would be wrong.
What do you use TXV?
More photos adding gauges and valves.
https://i.ibb.co/MVLY4YZ/IMG-20190720-103557.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/VDLWHxm/IMG-20190720-103643.jpg
Little progress, suction remaining...
https://i.ibb.co/s9YLcDk/IMG-20190721-191821.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/F75LSBP/IMG-20190721-191739.jpg
Interesting with the gauges on the high and low side.
I use Sporlan txv on the first stage, my second and third stage are also Sporlan.
Beautiful condensing unit and that's a very interesting "receiver" that I assume you added? Using capillary tube you don't want a receiver, you want it to exit at the very bottom of the condenser and have very minimal climb after the outlet since you're dealing with liquid there. Liquid doesn't climb very well. With that receiver setup you will have a harder time adjusting the charge with cap tube since you are fighting gravity, but it would be pretty good with a TXV since it adds a decent amount of volume in the liquid line.
If you're going with cap tube then it's all trial and error, so start with more than you think you need and keep adjusting. I see you have a king valve which is good. Hard to see from the pictures where it goes but I am assuming it's on the high side liquid line after the receiver? If so then that is great since you can close it to pump down to about 0psi low side in order to adjust cap tube length and re-braze without losing any gas. Just make sure to vacuum the low side afterwards so you don't have any air in the system.
Your condensing unit is perfect for easy trial and error cap tube adjustment if it weren't for the liquid line receiver/sight glass. Either go with a TXV or get rid of that "receiver" piping and sight glass and don't let it fight gravity.
Thanks for the comments.
The purpose of the coil before the filter is to act as a heat exchanger when I want it. I mean, I will use another single stage with a coil as evaporator (the coil of the second unit will be bigger diameter of the first coil and both of them will be inside a can full of coolant).
Do you think it will have effect(not as cascade but better temps and load?)
I found an excellent software that can estimate the cap tube lenght and diameter if you give parameters as compressor model, condensisng temp, superheat and subcooling.
Do you think I' ve set right parameters?
https://i.ibb.co/QCrppGV/IMG-20190723-213128.jpg
Oh I see, a same refrigerant cascade. I've made them before and they do get much colder, although I can't comment on how well it will handle a load with such low head pressures since I never really tried it with a load. As for the cap tube tool I haven't had any luck with them before and that seems to be recommending quite a small length of cap tube. I prefer using the whole roll of cap tube and then making adjustments after getting it charged and testing it.
Having valves to isolate the suction line and liquid line makes making those adjustments very easy since you don't have to reclaim the refrigerant, just put the system into pump down until the lines before and after the cap tube are at about 0psi, cut a bit of cap tube if it's too long then vacuum that line and open your valves and test the system again. It's a little extra work installing the valves, but it's well worth it.
been a while since i have been in the game dont know what sort of wattage you need to hold these days, maybe start around 3.3m 0.031" to cut down, think 2.7m will be high capacity but it too high your compressor will freeze over at the suction port at idle.
Same here kayl, that's why I say start long then cut down. Beats cutting too short then having nothing to work with afterwards. Nice to see you around again! Seeing your -100C Club Member name makes me think I should have actually made some threads on my systems 20ish years ago instead of only posting to help hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by kayl
Finally up and running.
2.7m captube lenght.
Remove the desuperheater-coil
https://i.ibb.co/D9vBgg8/IMG-20190801-182543.jpg
These are working temperatures.The low side gauge measures the pressure/temp at suction(superheat)
https://i.ibb.co/qg7HS9q/IMG-20190801-185852.jpg
One strange thing: The static Pressure on both gauges when the SS is closed even when its cold (all night not working) is 175 psi. Is that pressure normal?
When i fire it up pressure goes till 260psi and then when achieve -47 C after 80-90sec sits at 200-205psi.
But 175psi static pressure sounds too high, what do you think?
Is it highly overcharged?
I'm assuming this is still using R-404a? If so then all you do is use the P/T chart for R-404a to determine static pressure at a given temperature. For r-404a a static pressure of 175psi indicates the ambient temperature is about 80f/26.7c and if it is then that's normal. Static pressure won't go any higher than the saturated liquid pressure of the refrigerant.
Its true that ambient temp is 27-28C, so you think that the 175psi static pressure is ok.
Ok the question is if I start remove gas (with static pressure at 175) till it get to 160psi , the the static will rise again at 175psi?
With this amount of r404a I get -47 C no load, -39 C at load ~ 250W and suction gets cold till compressor (3-4cm from it)
https://i.ibb.co/g6vjRbs/IMG-20190802-164836.jpg
Yeah that static pressure is fine. R-404a is a fairly high pressure gas so it's normal to have a higher static pressure than something like R22 or R290 for example. If you were using something like R-410a your static pressure would be about 240 psi! If you take gas out to lower the static pressure you're just undercharging the system. If there is any liquid in the system then static pressure will always match the saturated temperature, so if you let gas out until it reaches 160psi and stays there you are effectively removing any liquid refrigerant that is present in the system so it's not at saturated pressure anymore. If however you were to add even more refrigerant right now and overcharge it your static pressure will still be the same. If you put a gauge on your R-404a tank you will find it will be at the same pressure as your systems static pressure.
So you are saying that at that amount of refrigerant inside the unit there is gas at liquid state so thats the ambient temp/pressure on the High side gauge.
How can I determine that the unit is not overcharged? The suction line freezes till compressor at idle -47 C and at load e.g E8600 @ 5350MHz @ 1.85v holds - 38 C and suction freezes 5cm from compressor.
I am a little confused because my previous SS had a Static Pressure of 90-100psi and it seemed to be well charged, had -45C idle and at load E8600 @ 5250MHz @ 1.85v -28.5 C. It was a Danfoss 1/3Hp , small Condenser , + 30cm longer cap tube (3m 0.031 cap tube)
Why that big difference?
100psi Static Pressure (26C ambient)
https://i.ibb.co/MgBWz5Q/IMG-20190517-213135.jpg
170psi Static Pressure (28.5C ambient)
https://i.ibb.co/WcS2rqK/IMG-839c5b4...816d90dc-V.jpg
If it were overcharged your compressor would be icing up and you would be getting liquid returning to the compressor. You can try removing a little gas to fine tune the charge under a load since cap tube systems are very reliant on a proper charge. I was just saying that your static pressure is fine since that matched the P/T chart of R-404a perfectly. Under a load having a little frost on the suction line before the compressor is great, it means the compressor is getting adequate suction gas cooling, but it is possible it's slightly overcharged when trying to achieve the lowest temps possible.
As for your other system being at only 100psi static, was it also using R-404a? There are many variables that could explain it. The biggest thing I am noticing is that your liquid line on the old system is lower and doesn't go straight up, straighten out then go through a sight glass and then down into the drier filter. That is most likely the reason right there. With your new system you are fighting gravity to get the liquid refrigerant travel up the liquid line to the capillary to get a proper liquid seal which requires much more refrigerant. If possible with a cap tube system you want your liquid line to be at the lowest point of the condenser so liquid doesn't have to travel uphill otherwise you have to overcharge it and it makes fine tuning more difficult.
So you think that if I lower the line that exits condenser climbing at the sightglass to a lower point would be better?
Yes, you always want the liquid line exiting the condenser to be straight as possible. Liquid doesn't climb up very well, so you end up having to overcharge it to get enough liquid at your drier exit/cap inlet as it is now. Sight glasses are not used on cap tube systems, that's just extra volume where liquid can settle and upset the cap tube charge.
That is the importance of having this forum alive...thanks aenigma and his advice for lowering the liquid line exiting the condenser.Quote:
Originally Posted by aenigma
I gained 3C and the SS unit went from -47C to -49.9C (no load) only lowering the liquid line with the sight glass.
This temp is after 4hrs of benching...
https://i.ibb.co/LnLtZNw/IMG-20190805-161014.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/xCWrw6m/IMG-20190805-161353.jpg
Also at load it can hold better I think, wprime -40C @. 1.85v
E7500 @ 5.0GHz 1.9v Superpi 1m
https://i.ibb.co/6bbWQzV/image-id-2214270.jpg
Awesome, glad it helped! For fine tuning to get better temps it would be good to get some evap in and out temps with a load so we can see if your charge and cap tube is right. Seems pretty sweet so far though.
<edit>
By the way, what evap are you using?
Asetek Vapochill LS evaporator ( I think )Quote:
Originally Posted by aenigma
Maybe with human ambient temps 20-22C (these days 28-30C) it will achieve even lower temps...(I hope)
Ah ok, not sure what that looks like inside. I was just curious. I have an evap that was on my old autocascade made by teyber I believe. It's a stepper kind of thing. Tons of mass and super restrictive so pretty lousy for a heat load haha
I have to say that I am impressed from its overall performance, its way better than the first SS that I built.
Core 2 Duo E4500 stock @ bios
https://i.ibb.co/wcj6dCb/IMG-20190805-225729.jpg
E4500 2.2 @ 4.4GHz (1.9v, -42.5C)
https://i.ibb.co/QKx6gzZ/vylezk.png
Yeah that is working great, very nice! Oh and you're right, it should do even better when your ambient temps are cooler.
You have a lot of CPU's to test, might as well send me some hardware to test on my autocascade! :p:
No problem, I have about 30 (different) s775 CPUs to send you if you pay shipping! I am from Greece!Quote:
Originally Posted by aenigma
https://i.ibb.co/Nt3L4TQ/IMG-20190808-172850.jpg
Oh wow nice, you have quite a collection! I was just joking about sending me hardware though haha
Nice, it looks good!
Ambient temp 26C
No load Evaporator temp -52.7C
https://i.ibb.co/pZwWY4f/IMG-20190816-232351.jpg
Nice, looks like it's working very well.
The ambient temp falls so I have this...
https://i.ibb.co/n8CGNWQ/IMG-20190907-222123.jpg
The problem is that despite the fact that the no load temp is 54.4 it cannot maintain the load that could hold when ambient temp was higher.
And to give some numbers:
With ambient temp 29-30 C I had high pressure before condenser about 40C.
With ambient temp 24-25 C I have high pressure about 36C
What this means? Long cap tube or not enough refridgerant?
First I would try adding some more refrigerant since that is easy to do, but my bet is on the cap tube being a bit too restrictive since the high side pressure is lower now that it is cooler and there isn't as much mass flow anymore.
I tried to cover 2/3 of the front condenser surface so the airflow can pass only from the remaining 1/3 and the high side pressure rise from 200psi/35C to 230psi/41C and the difference was huge.It can hold the load even better than before!
Is that gives you a clue about what is the "problem"
I tend to believe that its a little undercharged.
Yeah it very well could be undercharged that's why I said start by adding some refrigerant and see if that helps since it's easy to do. Do that with full airflow though. If it doesn't help then you just need to shorten your cap tube a little bit. The higher pressure on high side from blocking the airflow will push more refrigerant through the capillary so it is very likely your cap tube is just a little bit too restrictive.
Will try add some r404a...!
No load temp
https://i.ibb.co/nMY1ffD/IMG-20190909-213753.jpg
You need to add it under a load slowly to see if it helps. Add a little under a load then let it run that way for a few minutes and see if temps fall. If not then the cap tube is too restrictive.
<edit>
I just wanted to add something interesting/funny that just happened. I was wanting to do some low stage work on my autocascade/MRC and I was pumping it down by closing off all the stages and it looked fine but I got sidetracked and when I came back the high side needle was absolutely pegged. It goes to 500psi but it was past that touching the stopper. Compressors still sounded fine luckily, but what a good test of high side lines.
I usually pump it down into a cylinder while doing this, but it didn't look like it was needed at that time but then I got pulled away doing something else. Very interesting to see that happen with the alleged "bomb" I made in any case.
What I mean by "bomb" is there were some old old threads on here back when I made this autocascade that had people posting things that had, ehh, let's say, less than reasonable understanding, claiming people would blow themselves up making a nitrous/propane autocascade haha
My Ryzen 7 2700 under my Single Stage!
4.7GHz (1.45v , -40C)
https://i.ibb.co/vhL0K29/IMG-20191014-181614.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/CHy7Ndg/IMG-20191014-181445.jpg
Just a question... where is your temp probe mounted at ?
It appears like it is on the suction line just behind the evap, I say this because -55.9C on a single stage should not be possible, I might be incorrect. In all the years I have been running SS Phases units I have not seen a unit run at those temps and even be remotely able to hold a load. Most use R507 now, or even something different as in the states I believe they changed what could be used. Will have to get a pro builder in here to give feed back on the temps. I believe temps actually get colder as the gas gets pulled through the evap into the suction line, but that's not the temp inside the evap near the CPU.
The probe should be mounted at the base of the evap, near the CPU, some even drill a hole into the base of the evap and mount it there.
I have a monster SS Stage built by Ron, it pulls -45C with probe mounted like I said.
The probe is properly calibrated.
Its mounted at the side of evap near the base.
The temp at -55.9 is no load evap temp with the SS slightly undercharged.
Yeah -55c and even lower is very possible without a load Buckeye. His post right above yours said -40c which I am assuming is under a load. That seems about right and it isn't actual CPU temp, there can be quite a big difference with the small surface area of the CPU die. I don't know how many watts of heat a Ryzen puts out since I am not into overclocking anymore and very much out of the loop.
Back when I was using one of the single stages I made I was getting around -40c/-45c cpu die temps under a load, of course that was with Propane, nothing good like R-404a. I am guessing these new CPU temperature diodes aren't accurate at low temps anymore and you have to go by evap temp only?
Ah ok, I missed that post before, thanks.
When Ron tuned my unit I asked him to tune for load, I believe it was for 300watts, maybe a bit more, -40c/-45c is what it does.
Very nice and clean unit you built, good luck with tuning !
Under Load mine holds -40C to -42C @ ~ 300W
Thanks for your comments Buckeye, it was my first SS that I built!
You did great !! :)
Very nice clean build you did :)
it?s a bit unreal what you say , NEK2150gk has only 12ccm ...with souch small compressor at 300W you can -25 to -30 at 300w heat load hold!
also your condenser is to large for this compressor , your condensing unit was projected for another load with an large evaporator , using it in low back pressure application like OC with small surface area evaporator , that condenser is way to large ...and you will heavly deep enter in the superheat issue.
using cappilary tube as XV ...is usless using an sight glas , because you will have both liquid/gas at enter of cap tube anyway ....sight glas / reciever is mandatory when you refill a unit that actually use an TXV as expansion valve.
also using a copper reciever as accumulator in suction sided , will not work as a right "accumulator" .. you will have anyway liquid refrigerant flood back intro the compressor and oil issue.
regards!
I told him to get rid of that sight glass and receiver awhile ago and I believe he did and it started working much better. Also I am quite sure these 300w heatloads are not right. Just look up what CPU heat loads are and none come close to that. They keep dropping all the time after every new CPU infrastructure upgrade, not sure where 300w comes into play. Pretty sure it's closer to 100-150w heatload.Quote:
Originally Posted by nachtfalke
A large condenser isn't a problem if the cap tube is correct, in fact it is better since it increases COP. Lower COP increases efficiency. This isn't an air conditioner or refrigerator that always runs at hi pressure and high temps, these are dialed in for certain conditions. When ambient temperatures change, then bad things can happen of course.
Not sure what you mean about a receiver as a suction accumulator? Been a long time since I have checked the pictures, is that something that is present?
not condenser increase the COP ( coeficient of performance) , the XV will do that in this case the cape tube ...a small inleet of the cap tube will increase better the COP ....
this large condenser will not help him to much ..-because the evaporator is too small , this is the main problem of the OC condensing units ...units are not as should be efffient because of the small area of the evaporator , the evaporator can?t take right the heat from the cpu/gpu because of his small surface area with the heat ..because of the evaporator base you have only a small roen of refrigerant , if the evaporator willl be larger then that condenser will fit , from my experience ( i work in refrigeration domain) i can tell you large condenser is not the way , i can do same with half of that condensor capacity ..will be more efficient! less weight and much more compact unit.
about "accumulator " well many of the "builders" use for reciprocatings copper filter mounted in the suction sided , but he will not work as a dedicated accumulator .... please clik the link bellow , how a accumulator should be...
https://forum.lab501.ro/showpost.php...09&postcount=8
A larger efficient condenser can increase efficiency when the expansion device is set correctly for it, assuming the smaller condenser was increasing high side and getting warm. Less strain on the compressor from lower high side pressure is the reason for it. As for evaporator surface area I don't know what evap he is using, I used to just use a pipe cap and piece of pipe to make a hollow flooded evap that worked great, then I drilled pitting holes in a thick bottom plate with a drill press and both worked well. Finally I used a huge stepper evap I bought with a lot of surface area and it kind of sucked since there was too much mass and not enough surface area and volume. You can get a lot of surface area in a small evap, not a big issue really.
I know what an accumulator and receiver is, I just don't think he had an accumulator since he doesn't need it. He used to have a receiver but I told him that was not needed for capillary tube and he got rid of it and it increased the performance. Neither should be in a small single stage unit like this. I think a language barrier might be a problem here.
I haven't tried to cool a cpu in a awhile since it doesn't seem to be worth it anymore and I am not into extreme overclocking like I used to be. I am more into refrigeration and making autocascades occasionally, that's why I hang around in this forum sometimes. I use my autocascade for testing and cooling a beer super fast haha. An autocascade can cool a beer nicely.
My Unit is built that way, I din't use the copper 'Dessuperheater coil' , I kept the Sight Glass for decorative purpose and I used a 1'' diameter 20cm copper tube as accumulator before compressor.
The condenser unit at summer ~ 35C-40C temps was good for the Single Stage but at the momment with 20C room temperature it is big enouh so either I had to stop the fan or to add more R404a. I finally add some R404a and added a Fan regulator.
I think that the main benefit from a large condenser is that you can adjust the load by regulating fan speed and not by adding/removing refridgerant or adjust the cap tube lenght. If you have a fast spinning fan at a given load and want to increase load capacity if you slow down the fan the high side pressure increases so more refridgerant moves towards the evaporator. Correct me if I understand it wrong.Of course all this adjustment inside limits.
As regards my compressor from the site of Embraco , NEK2150GK has a cooling capacity of 303W at -40C at 25C ambient temp so maybe its real.
https://i.ibb.co/kM3HSVY/IMG-20190802-164836.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/PmKVJgT/IMG-20190805-161353.jpg
well , we speak 2 different language ( sorry for my english) ... but the "refrigeration language" it is or should be the same from US to EU and Asia and all over world :D , every condensing unit is calculated from the evaporator to compresor and condenser, this is one of the main issue with those " oc condensing " builders today ... they start first with condensor or compressor..... my questions is what kind of evaporator he using? for what load target is used? how much load can that evaporator holding?? how much refrigerant flow has/ restriction.. , how much cooling capacity and so on.... nobody named.
here is used an manufacture condensing units ...modified intro OC condensing unit. all are OK , but from my experience when you using a to large condensor , you will enter deep in the " condensing temperature" issue to low ...what mean this??? you will lose cooling capacity!... hight side pressure have nothing to me mentioned here , only if condenser is calculated wrong or to small / XV wrong tunned etc.....but if he is dimensioned /calculated corectly here will be no issue with the hight sided pressure ..., but if the condensor is to large then you will be happy with your lower hight sided pressure ...when you will loosing cooling capacity on the evaporator ..
COP will be incresed only by XV ....have nothing to do with condensor!
in my life i builded "some" SS , chillers and cascades , besided this i was an power hw points in the hwbot forums ...today i?m inactive on the hwbot. , my units was optimized well for thoise kind of loads .
"As regards my compressor from the site of Embraco , NEK2150GK has a cooling capacity of 303W at -40C at 25C ambient temp so maybe its real."
my dear it is not real because theyr test is to much different from yours ....what subcooling you have ? but superheat? ...what XV you use ? ...what cooling capacity has your evaporator ?
those number from above regarding Aspera test is done with a large evaporator for freezer vitrine ...in your case those number will be no more applied ...a 12ccm comprerssor will do -25 to -30 , and this is your gas return temp ( outleet evaporator ) and at those temp add a +60-70 degree Delta T ...and your cpu cores will be always at positive temp .
i build some time ago a large SS unit with rotary compressor 42cc , evaporator was hand made be my ( 1,5kg masively cooper) with 2 expansions valve , and 3,3kw condenser ...and i was able to hold a 7920x 12 core cpu in heavy load at +10 degree ( internal cores temp) in R15 benchmarkt with 1.55v core.
the main problems of the OC condensing units it?s that actually evaporators surface with the heat is to small ... we can?t do nothing here . yust some add of the evaporators design with will increase Delta T with fews lower degree.
regards all!
His measurement is only evap temp not CPU temp so you're right, the cpu is probably much higher depending on the evap design. Most CPU evaps you buy from guys that machine them have a lot of mass but not much volume and surface area so they don't seem very efficient. Best ones I used were simple ones I made that were just hollow with a lot of surface area on the base plate, but you have to lay the computer down so the refrigerant pools in the evap, I just had the motherboard laying on a table.
Keep in mind this was quite some time ago and I don't think the CPU's back then got as hot even with a 100% overclock. I had one SS made from a 5000 BTU window a/c that held -40c actual CPU temps under load easily and that was a big window a/c condenser. But as you say, it all depends on cap tube length/width or TXV size and adjustment, but that is regardless of the condenser. In the case of capillary tube the charge is critical and charging with superheat and subcooling (mostly superheat) is a good way to get close then fine tune from there. I have had no problems with oversized condensers, you just have to know how to charge it correctly and use the correct sized expansion device which can take a lot of trial and error.
Evaporator is from Asetec Vapochill LS
I used 9.5 feet of 0.31" cap tube from the cap tube size rule for 200-210W load
The fact is (and I beleieve you can't understand) that if you have a large condenser you can adjust the cooling capacity by adjusting the condensing temperature.Also it more easier to have cooling capacity regardless of summer or winter when in an fully optimized SS with a specified condenser for the load in summer you will suffer from high ambient temps.
Yeah precisely, fan controllers are essential for big ambient temperature swings. That is why most RTU's (roof top units) have fan controllers and/or head master valves for winter/summer operation. Either way he is right about the evap most likely not being very efficient and your CPU being much warmer than the evap itself. Your evap is very cold, but the CPU is probably quite a bit warmer. Just the nature of the beast with such a small surface area on the CPU cores. For one thing you're dealing with the heatplate/heat spreader on the cpu to have a good thermal compound for low temperatures between the CPU die and the heat spreader but also how small the cores are nowadays. It truly is an uphill battle.
I disagree a bit about evap.
For example the following cpus with the same heatspread surface
A Core 2 Duo E8600 @ 5400 @ 1.8v the evap temps are @ -35C to -40C @ Load (~210Watt)
A Pentium D 820 @ 4500 @1.675 the evap suffers with temps to -15C to - 17C (~260Watt)
This fact tells me that the SS with this evap can handle 200 to 225Watt ( the cap tube is set for 215Watt) but not the 260Watt from the Pentium D series.Perhaps with a modified captube that load could be handled from the SS.
The main benefit with the large Condenser is that you can charge it to hold for example -40C at load @ 215W @ standard fan speed but if you want -45 to - 47C at 125-150W you can have high fan speed , so lower high side pressure which leads to lower low side pressure with leads to lower evap temps.
In simple words you can adjust evap temps at load for different heatloads by adjustin condensing temperature.
If you want -47C for a Spi1M (lower heatload @ 125W for example) you can have high fan speed and if you want -40C for a Wprime1024 you can lower the fan speed to reach the optimized balance of R404a charge - Captube lengh heatload (215W)
Wait, how do you know your exact CPU temperature? Evap temp isn't meaningful, actual CPU core temps are.
the fact is , that you wont calculated your unit (and that you can t understand) and you wont charge it with load tester
a fan controller will be mandatory only when you have very low ambiental temperature( specially winter time with external unit mount outside) so in your case , using it on the desk at normal ambient temp you will not add to much at evaporator performance , in fact you will modified superheat ...but stay did you calculate your superheat and subcooling? the fact is that you don?t understand this thing!
i look over your subs on hwbot ...that tell me your SS can?t do much over a good water loop!
Are you serious? You are telling me that my SS can't do better than a good water loop?Quote:
Originally Posted by nachtfalke
Sorry I thought that I have a conversation with adults...
I cannot understand you attack...what is your problem?I thought that forum are for discussion and to became better...
You came here and judge my effort with the worst way...Maybe the problem is that a new builder came to surface?
Tell me that you can achieve that with custom watercool...
https://i.ibb.co/5L0TXz2/image-id-2258874.jpg
A few things,
CaptainCascade dropped in and didn't say anything!
Capacity issues, reduce cap tube length. You lose in temp and you gain in capacity. Do not pull into vacuum.
I have an industrial water chiller with EK block, it cannot hang with a proper SS.
Lastly, do what you enjoy and what is in your reach, nothing wrong with experimentation within your means. You have lots of experts here to tell you how to do it by the book but go at your own pace and learn from improvements on your setup. Keep asking questions, that's how I got all sorts of stuff built from my dumb ideas.
Thanks that is the purpose of the forum to exchange experience and ideasQuote:
Originally Posted by Charles Wirth