Vega's Quad-SLI 3GB GTX580 sub-zero liquid cooled build

This thread will be updated with build information, benchmarks, photos, and videos.

Goal: 60 FPS gaming on 3x 30" portrait displays in Surround with max in-game settings using a sub-zero liquid cooled system consisting of a 990x at 5.0+Ghz, Quad-SLI 3GB GTX580s at 1000+Mhz supported on a Gigabyte X58A-UD9 motherboard.


Screen setup:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o.../SANY00043.jpg



Phase Change:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0001-3.jpg



Some of the hardware:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0001-5.jpg



Proposed water cooling block diagram (1 to 3 to 1 loops):

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...ockDiagram.jpg



Can you guys see any issues with this loop setup?


For temperature monitoring and external emergency shutdown (hardware):

http://shop.aquacomputer.de/images/p...ages/53095.jpg

I will have a total of eight temperature probes that are good down to -40 C. Temp probes for the following components: CPU, 4x GPU, NB, SB, Mosfets. Also purchased the ATX power interrupt splice and relay for emergency shutdown as OS software based shutdowns are unreliable at best.


Some more photos of temporary setup:


http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0006-2.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0005-2.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0004-4.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0003-5.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0002-6.jpg


Temporary ghetto fan setup to keep these cards temperatures from meltdown:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0006-3.jpg


Custom built evaporator liquid tank (under construction):

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0007-4.jpg


Evaporator will sit in tank in the stock window air conditioning unit at the front (bottom of picture):

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0008-2.jpg


This makes a tidy self contained unit that looks good and is easy to move around. In the winter I can leave the unit inside the house to cool the computer and at the same time heat the home air. This saves my HVAC system some work.

In the summer I put the unit in the window to dump all of the computers heat outside. It also dumps the noise outside too and once again has the benefit of taking stress off of my home HVAC system.

Using an Iwaki RD-30 24v DC pump with a variable voltage regulator. Tygon Norprene tubing of 5/8, 1/2, and 3/8 ID to help control coolant temperature loss and lower condensation temperature:

http://www.tygon.com/uploadedImages/...prene-A60G.jpg


Coolant will start out as distilled water + watter wetter to lower water surface tension and provide corrosion inhibitor as there will be mixed metals involved (aluminum, copper, nickel). As temperatures decrease during testing, propylene glycol will be added to lower liquid freezing point. I know propylene glycol gets slushy at real cold temperatures and doesn't have the best thermal characteristics. I want to keep a non-fuming and pet friendly non-toxic system. No methanol, ethylene glycol etc.

I'd also like to keep away from those engineered fluids by 3M and Dow that cost $200 a gallon. ;) My setup will be 6-7 gallons so you could see that would be cost prohibitive! If anyone has any ideas on different coolant or about my setup design at all, I am all ears.

I also have to figure out a way to control the A/C unit thermistor sensor to properly cycle the compressor and much lower temperatures than it was designed for.

Build progress photos:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...a/SANY0016.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...a/SANY0017.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0005-3.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0001-8.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0002-7.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0001-7.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0007-6.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0008-3.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0009-6.jpg

- Screenshots / Videos will be posted here -

DCS-A10C:

To view full size image click here (make sure to click on the image to make full size if opened in a new window): http://www.deviantart.com/download/1...ga-d3adt3i.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrF960wFaw4


Crysis:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJ4L7lSrWPg


Crysis 2:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etfK2moRRwo


Heaven 2.5:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kln4Hzt-7pk


Con-formant Coating:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLiiJ4k3nTA

I also did have a question for you phase change gurus. Do you guys think the new 15000 btu unit I have will be able to cope with the heat load I will be putting it under? I am not looking for super cold but just sub-zero would be nice for some decent over clocks.

What pump will you be using?

What's that box between your CPU and motherboard, right at the front?

I'm in love with your setup, which game is that? :slobber:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TJ TRICHEESE

What pump will you be using?

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An Iwaki RD-30 with adjustable voltage control.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by [XC] Oj101

What's that box between your CPU and motherboard, right at the front?

I'm in love with your setup, which game is that? :slobber:

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That is a EK CPU water block. That is DCS:A-10C flight simulator. The sim just released its final version and the performance is amazing. You should check it out. ;)

My honest opinion is that the proposed setup will be a condensation/hardware death nightmare.

If it were me I'd minimize the risk by only going subzero on the CPU via a single stage, which will be much easier to manage the condensation issue.

With a proper ambient watercooling solution, you should be able to do 900-1000MHz on your video cards, which in quad SLI are going to be bottlenecked by your CPU speed. (probably even at stock speeds)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gunslinger

My honest opinion is that the proposed setup will be a condensation/hardware death nightmare.

If it were me I'd minimize the risk by only going subzero on the CPU via a single stage, which will be much easier to manage the condensation issue.

With a proper ambient watercooling solution, you should be able to do 900-1000MHz on your video cards, which in quad SLI are going to be bottlenecked by your CPU speed. (probably even at stock speeds)

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The entire MB and video cards will painstakingly be coated with DragonSkin FX-Pro. The goal is to seal her up tight to prevent condensation problems.

I think you might be underestimating the GPU requirement of pushing 12.3 mega-pixels. ;) So far in testing I have all four GPUs at 90+% usage and the scaling is ridiculous.

I can see people calling Quad-SLI a "benchmark only" setup on say one 30", but when you kick it up to surround the benefits are superb.

does that gpu support 4way?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hondacity

does that gpu support 4way?

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Sure does. :D

Original post updated.

Are those palit cards non-reference pcb or just a different cooler and 3gb of mem, as palit's non reference pcb's don't have the best reputation and for a good reason, the palit 2gb gtx 285's i had were horrible clockers.... but hopefully palit have learned since then.

Non-reference PCBs. I haven't had any issues as of yet but I haven't pushed them hard yet either. That won't happen until I get the water blocks.

Twice as much GPU RAM as what I have for CPU RAM... jealous.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Callsign_Vega

Non-reference PCBs. I haven't had any issues as of yet but I haven't pushed them hard yet either. That won't happen until I get the water blocks.

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What waterblocks will you be using then? The the cards aren't reference then the full cover blocks might not fit on the cards...

EK is going to make waterblocks specifically for these cards.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zalbard

EK is going to make waterblocks specifically for these cards.

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Diddnt know that, thats pretty cool. I only mentioned it because I had that problem picking out a waterblock for a GTX460.

Spent pretty much most of the day finishing building the liquid tank. A little light headed from all the silicon vapors. :D The tolerances on this build where much tighter than I thought they would be and it took a lot of time to get everything right. This thing was a nats ass off from not fitting. :eek:


http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0009-4.jpg


Filter screws onto the bottom left connection:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0010-4.jpg


Double layered therm insulation so hopefully the temps will hold for decent periods even with the compressor not running.

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0011-1.jpg


http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0012-1.jpg


http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...a/SANY0014.jpg


http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...a/SANY0015.jpg


Hose connection areas and corners are strategically reinforced with aluminum and fiber "drywall" patch. This thing was pretty tough when I had to shoehorn it into the A/C window unit frame. I am just glad I got the evaporator in the tank without busting the connections! That was my largest worry as that occurring would have set back the project for weeks.

Awesome setup:up:

I'm happy to try benching with just one of those 3giger Palit:)

Just be carefull with condensation

this is gonna be a crazy setup eeeeek

I'll definitely be following this build, looks epic.....I love the 3-way portrait surround setup....totally droolin' all over my KB ATM :slobber:

However, you're not gonna get that hex to 5.5GHz with this plan, even 5GHz will be tough :rolleyes:

First test of the cooling unit. It drew down the coolant from room temperature of 68F to 38F (no load, only pump operating) in just two minutes! Although my testing had to stop there as I found a small leak in the tank. I am going to patch it up and test some more tomorrow.

I just got an email from EK saying the non-reference PCB water blocks for the Palit/Gainward 570s/580s will be available in 7-10 days! They make such nice products I am like a little boy in a candy store.

Awesome build. Look forward to seeing more.

Hardware products, a chiller insane, I will monitor the project, I will do a DIY chiller tbm, will use some ideas from you in mine! hehehe
congrats!

Just an update on the testing. Drew down 7-gallons worth of coolant to almost -30C in around ten minutes (no load besides pump) before I turned the compressor off. Starting about -15C the propylene glycol was slushing up. CPU block was really cold so I am thrilled.


http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...a/SANY0016.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...a/SANY0017.jpg


I ran into another snag, which is the nature of the beast. The pressure of the liquid is making the side-walls of the tank bow out more than I expected. Bowing to a level I am uncomfortable with. This weekend I will have to take the tank out and reinforce it. Tons of work but I'd rather get it done right so it lasts a long time.

I am also going to have to super insulate all of the tubing. As you can see in the photo, even the Norprene tubing was sweating like a fat girl running after an ice-cream truck. My floor was covered in water from condensation. :D

very nice build can't wait to see it finished

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Callsign_Vega

Just an update on the testing. Drew down 7-gallons worth of coolant to almost -30C in around ten minutes (no load besides pump) before I turned the compressor off. Starting about -15C the propylene glycol was slushing up. CPU block was really cold so I am thrilled.


http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...a/SANY0016.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...a/SANY0017.jpg


I ran into another snag, which is the nature of the beast. The pressure of the liquid is making the side-walls of the tank bow out more than I expected. Bowing to a level I am uncomfortable with. This weekend I will have to take the tank out and reinforce it. Tons of work but I'd rather get it done right so it lasts a long time.

I am also going to have to super insulate all of the tubing. As you can see in the photo, even the Norprene tubing was sweating like a fat girl running after an ice-cream truck. My floor was covered in water from condensation. :D

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That's funny.

Made a small Crysis video clip using stock GPU clocks (for now). Average 50-70 FPS with some dips into the 40's with every setting maxed besides the shader slider on medium (Doesn't work at very high shader with current drivers and/or Quad-SLI for some reason). Video is 720p (recommend opening new window).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJ4L7lSrWPg

:eek: SICK

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dinos22

:eek: SICK

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+1 .......w00t!! :up::up:

It should be fun seeing what my system can do once I get it chilled down. Just waiting now for my Aquaero 5 setup and EK GPU blocks to come in from Europe and the real fun begins.

Just a few more updates. Re-installed tank and this is final configuration with filter:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0001-6.jpg


Unit installed in window:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0003-6.jpg


Tried to make this cooling solution not too obtrusive ;):

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0005-3.jpg


All of the heat and noise dumped outside, its actually pretty quiet inside:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0006-4.jpg

Just watch the compressor temperature, since you haven't changed the refrigerant, you are more then likely overloading it at least in the slightest. I would suggest putting a probe on the top of the compressor, don't let it over 95C.

I'm going to bet you will have flow balance issues given the 3-way split "loop".

Quote:

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Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337

Just watch the compressor temperature, since you haven't changed the refrigerant, you are more then likely overloading it at least in the slightest. I would suggest putting a probe on the top of the compressor, don't let it over 95C.

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It uses R410A. Is that refrigerant not good for the temperatures I will be using? Thanks for the recommendation, I will add a temp sensor on the compressor. Is 95C a good cutoff to know if I am overloading it or not?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by STEvil

I'm going to bet you will have flow balance issues given the 3-way split "loop".

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I think there will be some flow imbalances in parallel, but with the temperature of the coolant fairly low I don't think small differences should matter. Of course if one or more of the lines comes to a virtual standstill versus the other(s), of course that would be a huge problem. Hopefully with the PSI the RD-30 can put out, there shouldn't be a huge flow rate problem.


I will be adding a few more safety shutdowns to the system. The Aquaero 5 can handle 8 temp sensors. I was thinking one for each GPU, one for CPU, one for UD9 SB, one for NB, and one for the compressor. That way if any one of those sensors trip, the computer can be shutdown in hardware. I've also added a Aquaero liquid level sensor for the tank so if the fluid level drops, the computer can react.

Anyone else think of something I am missing?

an ounce of sanity?
i think you should loose another :D
i love it keep it up

One word - Jealous!!!

Looking forward to seeing what sort of clocks/performance your gunna get when you get it all wet :D

P.S. I love seeing a big block of GPUs like that makes a computer look like its got substance ;)

Found out that prolonged -30C combined with the liquid pressure makes for seepage over time outside the tank with the silicon I used. I ripped out the old tank and have to start from scratch. If anyone has any ideas on a insulated custom size tank materials that can withstand low temps and 7 gallons of water pressure, I am all ears! (I don't have a welder).

you cant sweat solder the leak closed?
all you would need is to know where the leak is
and a butane torch and some solder

Quote:

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Originally Posted by disturbed13

you cant sweat solder the leak closed?
all you would need is to know where the leak is
and a butane torch and some solder

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No, the tank was not originally metal.

Playing around in Crysis 2 now that Quad-SLI is working:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etfK2moRRwo

dude can u fix your pics, really anxious to see this, i mean 3x 3gb gpu's!? geeeeeeeee!

Ah crap, stupid photobucket. I might switch to another free host that doesn't have bandwidth limits.

its too bad there isnt a way to upload photos on Xtremes servers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Callsign_Vega

Ah crap, stupid photobucket. I might switch to another free host that doesn't have bandwidth limits.

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I personally use Microsoft SkyDrive - free & has never failed me :up:

You're sneaky! You post more pics here then on OCN lol ill just follow both threads :D

Will that unit be able to keep the water below zero, with all the heat that those cards and CPU will dump into it? I ran a water setup chilled by dice, and I couldnt keep the temps below zero on the CPU when it was under load.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Wega52

Will that unit be able to keep the water below zero, with all the heat that those cards and CPU will dump into it? I ran a water setup chilled by dice, and I couldnt keep the temps below zero on the CPU when it was under load.

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I think there are too many variables to come up with an accurate estimate. I'll start off by running above the dew point, say around 15C and see how well the compressor holds up under full heat blast of the computer and see what computer temps are. Then work my way down the temp scale once everything is insulated.

very nice, Ft Rucker isn't that far from me, might be worth the trip to see it live once you complete it :clap:

Man that is looking great! Not sure how much I would want that bulky chiller hanging around my desk though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AMD_Freak

very nice, Ft Rucker isn't that far from me, might be worth the trip to see it live once you complete it :clap:

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You in the panhandle?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lilmanmgf

Man that is looking great! Not sure how much I would want that bulky chiller hanging around my desk though.

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I would hate that too. It's two rooms away. ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Callsign_Vega

I also did have a question for you phase change gurus. Do you guys think the new 15000 btu unit I have will be able to cope with the heat load I will be putting it under? I am not looking for super cold but just sub-zero would be nice for some decent over clocks.

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I am with Gunslinger on this one.

Quote:

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My honest opinion is that the proposed setup will be a condensation/hardware death nightmare.

If it were me I'd minimize the risk by only going subzero on the CPU via a single stage, which will be much easier to manage the condensation issue.

With a proper ambient watercooling solution, you should be able to do 900-1000MHz on your video cards,

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In my system condensation is the worst enemy constanly pesky drips find there way into the wrong location and cause shutdowns. So far I have been liucky and have just had to clean up any residue with isopropal alchol and then wait for it to dry out.

But chilled water cooling of the GPU cards esp 4 of them will be a nightmare. Chilled water cooling the ram is just stupid. people only even water cool ram just for the bling factor.

Have you heard the KISS term Keep It Simple Stupid.

Nice setup dont ruin it by going overboard.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Callsign_Vega

Found out that prolonged -30C combined with the liquid pressure makes for seepage over time outside the tank with the silicon I used. I ripped out the old tank and have to start from scratch. If anyone has any ideas on a insulated custom size tank materials that can withstand low temps and 7 gallons of water pressure, I am all ears! (I don't have a welder).

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for the best return on your money, I'd recommend a large plastic cooler. The inside portion is usually made of one solid piece of plastic therefore there's no leaking. It won't look as nice as your previous tank though.

If you feel like playing around to build your own tank though, you need to make sure that your bonding material can handle both low temperatures and your anti-freeze agent (you mentioned using propylene glycol i think? That's supposed to be toxic in ambient air according to the wiki, btw).

I don't know if it makes sense to size your system for a -30c operating temperature when you are about to dump 1200 watts into it... Perhaps you should look at connecting everything first and then seeing what kinds of temperatures you have and adapt your insulation strategy at that point.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shadow6491

I am with Gunslinger on this one.



In my system condensation is the worst enemy constanly pesky drips find there way into the wrong location and cause shutdowns. So far I have been liucky and have just had to clean up any residue with isopropal alchol and then wait for it to dry out.

But chilled water cooling of the GPU cards esp 4 of them will be a nightmare. Chilled water cooling the ram is just stupid. people only even water cool ram just for the bling factor.

Have you heard the KISS term Keep It Simple Stupid.

Nice setup dont ruin it by going overboard.

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I just read through your thread. Cool setup! A small freezer compressor can get that much liquid to -7C? That is pretty impressive. Does the compressor run 24/7? Have you taken any measurements as to how long it takes for the liquid temperature to rise in that tank with the computer on and off? I'd love to see those numbers.

I totally subscribe to the KISS method on many things. Although on this, its go Xtreme or go home. :D I know RAM chilled liquid cooling is totaly overboard. Although, I want to push some serious clocks on this RAM. Mainly it is because I want all of the computers heat dumped outside and no fans having to blow over the motherboard.

I will also be going Xtreme to prevent condensation. Conformal sealing/insulating the entire computer pretty much. MB, GPUs, RAM and water blocks. There literally will not be any access for air/moisture to contact circuits. That is until it all literally blows up in my face... :rofl:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by antiacid

for the best return on your money, I'd recommend a large plastic cooler. The inside portion is usually made of one solid piece of plastic therefore there's no leaking. It won't look as nice as your previous tank though.

If you feel like playing around to build your own tank though, you need to make sure that your bonding material can handle both low temperatures and your anti-freeze agent (you mentioned using propylene glycol i think? That's supposed to be toxic in ambient air according to the wiki, btw).

I don't know if it makes sense to size your system for a -30c operating temperature when you are about to dump 1200 watts into it... Perhaps you should look at connecting everything first and then seeing what kinds of temperatures you have and adapt your insulation strategy at that point.

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A large plastic Coleman cooler was my first design. Those things are awesome and have incredible insulation. The problem though is they are big and bulky. I would need to pull out the evaporator and possibly run into large problems trying to fit that. Plus it wouldn't look like a nice/compact setup that blends flush with the wall.

You read that propylene glycol is toxic in ambient air? What does that mean? Do you mean inhaling mist? Propylene glycol is used in human food and used in drinking water systems as anti-freeze. Its pretty safe. I could not find any data either way if propylene glycol interacts with silicon.

I have noticed that the volatile organic compound Acetic Acid is used in silicone sealants. This has caused some mild green colored corrosion on the brass fittings I have used and also on the metal that was used to braze the evaporator copper lines. It does not affect the copper itself. Hopefully the corrosion isn't too damaging and ceases once the acetic acid is vaporized and/or the silicone is cured and oxygen removed.

You guys did give me the interesting option of adding a large central reservoir that can be independent of the window unit and hidden away. I could hide a Coleman ice chest under the cabinet out of view in line with the evaporator tank and the pump. Thats why I'd love some temperature retention numbers from Shadow.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Callsign_Vega

You in the panhandle?

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yea up near I-10 prolly 1.5hrs at most from Rucker

It really is to hard to answer those questions. If you remember back to year 10 physics you might remember that warm water freezers faster than cold water. Once the coolant starts to change temperature it is not a linear change. But on average it is about 1 or 2 degrees per hour.

I only run my compressor for about 8 hours that will reduce the 100 liters about 10 degrees. It takes at least 12 hours with the unit off and the computer running to increase the coolant by 10 degrees. These are not exact as I have never really needed to worry about it. With the computer off and the compressor off the coolant only changes by about 1 degree or so per day.

Good luck with the condensation. You will need to make your electronics water proof as there is no way you could insulate all those components to withstand condensation creation with -30 degree coolant.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shadow6491

It really is to hard to answer those questions. If you remember back to year 10 physics you might remember that warm water freezers faster than cold water. Once the coolant starts to change temperature it is not a linear change. But on average it is about 1 or 2 degrees per hour.

I only run my compressor for about 8 hours that will reduce the 100 liters about 10 degrees. It takes at least 12 hours with the unit off and the computer running to increase the coolant by 10 degrees. These are not exact as I have never really needed to worry about it. With the computer off and the compressor off the coolant only changes by about 1 degree or so per day.

Good luck with the condensation. You will need to make your electronics water proof as there is no way you could insulate all those components to withstand condensation creation with -30 degree coolant.

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Those are pretty impressive temperature change numbers. The purpose of conformal sealing is to make the components virtually water proof.

You need some more monitors:
http://images.anandtech.com/doci/4209/5x1p.png

http://www.anandtech.com/show/4209/a...le-card-king/6

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WangChung

You need some more monitors:
http://images.anandtech.com/doci/4209/5x1p.png

http://www.anandtech.com/show/4209/a...le-card-king/6

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I am already pushing more pixels than 5x 1080P monitors. Even the 3GB GTX580s would not have enough VRAM for 5x 30" screens, let alone the 69xx series 2GB. ;)

I see you were talking about pushing some serious clocks from your ram, hence the reasoning of water cooling them, however your limitation will most definitely be your IMC and if it can't keep up then watercooled ram won't really matter.

Regardless I want to see it when it is finished:up:

This has to be pretty much the most epic build to date

Any new updates hehe

Permatex Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant

handle temperatures ranging from -75°F to 400°F. The sealant resists oil, water, weather, vibration and grease.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...T|GRP2132_____

Conformal coating almost complete. I did front and back of the motherboard but I did not finish the RAM slot and RAM blocks as I am running low on the Dragon Skin FX-Pro. I just ordered a new trial size (as pictured in video) as I will need it for the GPUs and to finish everything up.

Prep:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0004-5.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0005-4.jpg


Dielectric grease in CPU socket:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0006-5.jpg


Insulating stock MB water cooled components:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0007-5.jpg


Insulating CPU block:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0009-5.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0010-5.jpg


RAM blocks installed on the A-Data 2200+ 8-8-8-24:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0011-2.jpg


Temporary setup testing CPU/MB block cooling:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0012-2.jpg


Video showing some different angles of the coating:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLiiJ4k3nTA


I am really relieved everything is up and running properly after doing all of this work. This took a lot more time and effort than I originally though it would (Isn't that how it always goes?). It really takes a long time to mask everything off that needs to be, get the coating into all the tight small spots (There are a ton on a UD9). The Dragon Skin cures really fast and the workability time window is very small.

By the way, always put the CPU socket protector in the socket to protect the pins while you are doing stuff like this. Just one small slip of the CPU block when I was test fitting and it came in contact with some CPU pins. Luckily the pins bent back easy with a razor blade and a magnifying glass. Also, do not add too much dielectric grease in the CPU socket. I had to remove a tiny bit as the CPU gets "compressed" into the socket and against the pins more than I originally anticipated.

I used Liquid Laboratories Liquid Ultra on the CPU. Anyone else have experience with this TIM? This stuff was a pain in the butt to spread out! I've watched their video about spreading but I could not do it nearly as well as the video guy. The metal just wanted to stick together and/or to the brush and not the CPU itself. I could only get about half the CPU coated. Hopefully with the high pressure applied by the EK HF-Supreme it spread out a little more under there. So far the temps seem to be pretty darn good so it appears to be working decently.

With the repaired socket and the dielectric grease all stuffed in there, I was so glad when the PC tested working normally. :D Right now the CPU is idling at 15C and rises to only 22C under full-bore Intel Burn test. The AC compressor only kicks on about once every 15 minutes for a minute to keep the liquid temp down during idle. Right now I am waiting for the GPU water blocks and the Aquaero 5 components to come in from Europe to finish this build up. I'll make another update hopefully within a week when I get the extra Dragon Skin in with the RAM in the loop and I can go for some serious CPU over clocking.

Things I would do differently with hindsight: use one of those pastry icing decorator things to have better control over the application of the Dragon Skin. Also, the stock UD9 MB water cooler was a pain to insulate. Getting an EK UD9 MB block would have been a better choice. I'll leave that option open after I see how this current MB cooling works under sub-zero. The good thing about the Dragon Skin is it is easy to work with. Al you need as an X-Acto razor to cut away and trim the Dragon Skin. In the meantime I have to work on getting some parallel resistors set up on the thermistor sensor in order to get the compressor to cycle at the temps I want.

Nice pics dont forge to take some finalized pics :D, Ram blocks? Wow u have to much money to spare man..

The ram blocks tipped you off eh :P Insane build crysis looked mindblowing on your monitor setup its too bad they dont make them without bezels.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zloyd

The ram blocks tipped you off eh :P Insane build crysis looked mindblowing on your monitor setup its too bad they dont make them without bezels.

---

if they did that the screen would just fall out
there would be no way of keeping it in place

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by disturbed13

if they did that the screen would just fall out
there would be no way of keeping it in place

---

A lot of people do not realize a LCD panel "floats" in its housing. It is impossible to make LCD tech to truly have no edges/bezels. I am not even sure it is possible with multiple OLED screens.

Really the only way you could get multiple displays fit together with no gaps would be edge blending software for multiple-projectors.

or buy a bigger single screen :D
click this
watching that vid is how i learned

these are the thin bezel monitors he'll want ;)

http://www.crunchgear.com/2010/11/03...hinnest-bezel/

So anyway, what's the coolant temperature when your cpu idles at 15c? That's suspiciously high for only the mb/cpu if we're still talking about the -15-30c you discussed earlier in the thread. If you're running at 15c like you suggested you might try, then a delta of 7c could probably be improved with more flow / different TIM. Have you considered indigo xtreme?

I'm looking forward to to see how much more OC can be achieved with chilled gpu's compared to water cooling them :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by disturbed13

or buy a bigger single screen :D
click this
watching that vid is how i learned

---

You cannot get bigger single screens with this kind of resolution. 1080p blown up looks horrible. The only thing out there is 4K resolution TVs that are around $100,000.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by antiacid

these are the thin bezel monitors he'll want ;)

http://www.crunchgear.com/2010/11/03...hinnest-bezel/

So anyway, what's the coolant temperature when your cpu idles at 15c? That's suspiciously high for only the mb/cpu if we're still talking about the -15-30c you discussed earlier in the thread. If you're running at 15c like you suggested you might try, then a delta of 7c could probably be improved with more flow / different TIM. Have you considered indigo xtreme?

I'm looking forward to to see how much more OC can be achieved with chilled gpu's compared to water cooling them :)

---

Those thin bezels do look nice, but still only 1080p. Unknown image quality and input lag also is a show stopper.

The coolant temperature is only a degree or two below CPU temp. Like I said I do not have the compressor running full bore, it is only cooling the liquid to +14C right now for testing before I get in more Dragon Skin and finish the coating and RAM block install. I don't want condensation issues before its all sealed up tight! Right now the compressor is laughing off the computer, only turning on once every 15 minutes or so with a run time of ~45 seconds.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Callsign_Vega

You cannot get bigger single screens with this kind of resolution. 1080p blown up looks horrible. The only thing out there is 4K resolution TVs that are around $100,000.

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well of course it does
my 22" LCDs are 1680 x 1050
which makes a 23" a 1080 HD monitor
im not sure what the resolution should be on the 40"+ screens

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by disturbed13

well of course it does
my 22" LCDs are 1680 x 1050
which makes a 23" a 1080 HD monitor
im not sure what the resolution should be on the 40"+ screens

---

big screens are usually 1920x1080 on newer model, some variation of 720p on older ones.

Screen size is not proportional to resolution. Sure, there's a trend. However, there's also wiggle room.

I am done insulating the MB to include the RAM blocks. Maybe I should call it the Ectoplasm computer:


http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0001-8.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0002-7.jpg


Initial testing of CPU/MB/RAM. Spent a crap load of time going up and down the BClock range testing all multipliers and CPU PLL voltages. Nothing really let me break free of ~4.8Ghz @ 1.45VCore. The only thing that let me up the Ghz was more VCore. 1.51V let me get 5Ghz. 1.54V let me get 5.2 Ghz. I'd imagine closing in on 1.58V would be needed for 5.5Ghz.

My setup really didn't care for low BClock, but it loves minimal CPU PLL. Setting it to its lowest voltage, 1.3V produced the most stability in IBT. I think I got a decent clock for 24/7 voltage using 14 C liquid for now:


http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Overclock.jpg


IBT stable and memtest passed @ 844Mhz 6/6/6/18/1T 1.66V with liquid cooling. 4000Mhz NB and 211x23. Do you guys think these tight timings would be better for gaming or increase DDR3 speed to around 1070Mhz @ 8/8/8/24?

Epic build Vega :up:

Subbed, can't wait to see these Palit 3GB with blocks...

I don't recall going above 1.6v at the GOOC to get 5.3Ghz on my X980 under watercooling... Yes it was hot but cool and stable enough for benching... I reckon you can push it a little harder

I think you should aim for the 8-8-8-20 1000+ timings and push that 990 a bit higher! You must get it to 5ghz+ :)

I could do 1.5 - 1.55V to get 5.2Ghz. You guys think the chip could last for a year at that voltage being used 7 hours a day @ 0 deg C, half the time idling at desktop and the other half gaming? ;)

Got a few toys in today:


http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0002-8.jpg


Going to be busy this weekend!

Here is a final version pic of the liquid tank opened up. Everything has been working great so far. CPU has been idling at 4 deg C.


http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0001-7.jpgso far. CPU has been idling at 4 deg C.


Win 7 installed in like 4 minutes with Raid 0 Vertex 3's.

Not bad for being stuck on ICH10R:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...28KBStripe.jpg

awesome update mate! cant wait to see those 3gb cards in action!!

Installing and setting up four GPU water blocks was a bit more work than I thought!

Those darn stand-offs take a lot of time to install:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0001-9.jpg


Patient:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0002-9.jpg


Had to remove stupid "warranty" sticker covering screw with a heat gun. Stickers are still in perfect shape if needed for later. ;)

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0003-7.jpg


Card stripped down:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0004-6.jpg


Stock heat sink. Notice the tiny little thermal tape boxed in red:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0005-5.jpg


Card prepped. The tiny little chips boxed in red match up with the heat tape on the stock air cooler but are not covered by the EK blocks:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0006-6.jpg


Assembly line complete. So purdy:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0007-6.jpg


It looks nice with no hoses:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0008-3.jpg


Damn, hoses everywhere:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0009-6.jpg


To my surprise, first time go no leaks. There are also zero flow issues tubed up as per my original diagram. Iwaki RD-30 pump totally owns even at only 18 volts! All GPUs tested individually with two passes of Heaven 2.5 to seat TIM. I haven't even gone sub-zero yet and GTX 580s idling at 5 C and full load 12 C is pretty sweet!

I do have one concern though with those tiny chips highlighted in the red box. Does anyone know what they are? My understanding is that the much larger chips under the thermal tape (three rows of six) are the main GPU VRMs. The 2+2 chips just offset of those three rows on the PCI-E power connector side are the memory VRMs?

So what do those six tiny chips of interest do? Are they also part of the power regulation? The reason I am worried is the stock air cooler contacts these and the EK block does not. During the Heaven 2.5 runs I put my finger (with a latex glove on) on these little chips to feel how hot they get. It was hot enough that I could not keep my finger on for more than 5 seconds and at stock voltage. Those round purple/silver capacitors at the very end of the card got pretty warm also.

What do you guys think, should I be worried about these little chips not being cooled? The last step now is to insulate the GPU blocks, seal everything up tight with Dragon Skin and put on all the tube insulation.

No need to cool those tiny regulators, Vega. They're effectively cooled through the circuit board. :up:
P.S.: It is normal that the VRM part gets very hot on these 200W+ card. With my test system with water @ 40°C the PWM circuit used to get up to 70°C (measured on the backside of the PCB). The packaging of the MOSFETs used on this card is the main limiting factor of cooling since they're designed to mainly dump the heat to the PCB. Capacitors on my test sample we're peaking at 65°C+. Do not worry, PWM can handle up to 120°C at load.

Thanks for the info Tiborr!

no condensation on the gpu? are they also waterproof?

I forgot I had a digital temperature sensor hidden away. I took some readings all over the circuits/boards. I think I over exaggerative how hot the chips were getting. At stock volts/clocks, the PWMs and the PCB around the various VRMs would max out at only around 50 C.

Kicking up the voltage to 1.15V with a core of 1000Mhz and 2200Mhz memory, after two Heaven 2.5 runs the max temps I read were topping out at 66 C. This is only with a 14 C coolant at the moment until I get everything insulated. I'd imagine once I go sub-zero these temps would decrease quite a bit. Just putting a 120mm fan blowing over the end of the cards with zero heat sinks lowered the temps of the chips/capacitors by 20 C!

I cannot believe these chips/capacitors are rated up to 120 C. That is freaking scorching!

How high have you got the 990X stable?

how are you going to put everything in the case?

You are one crazy dude :D Will be interesting to see this all cased up, and what kind of numbers it pulls at your final settings. I do hope you don't have condensation issues and that sealant doesn't sweat at sub zero temps.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by disturbed13

how are you going to put everything in the case?

---

The bench-top is the "case" :D


Everything is insulated up. Talk about a lot of work. ;)

Graphics cards:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...ANY0002-10.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...ANY0001-10.jpg


There is a computer in there somewhere:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0004-7.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...SANY0005-6.jpg


Coolant is running about -2 C at the moment. Testing CPU @ 5.5Ghz @ 1.59 vcore. Idling around 0 C and full IBT load around ~28C. Testing Quad-SLI with core @ 1055Mhz @ 1.15v. GPUs idle ~2 C with a 100% load ~12 C. The GPU PCBs get chilled down real low and the VRM temps are silly low! If I try and go any lower on the liquid I will have to start swapping out some of the distilled water + water wetter for some propylene glycol. So far the heat has been kept well under control with -2 C liquid (water wetter adds a very small amount of anti-freeze). Considering water has the best heat transfer capability and adding propylene glycol would reduce heat transfer capability, I might stay at -2 C.

Checking some HWbot stats, I might be able to pull down some of the fastest non-liquid nitrogen / dry ice numbers out there for 24/7 use.

whats the temps on the nf200? motherboard vreg heatsinks temps? :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hondacity

whats the temps on the nf200? motherboard vreg heatsinks temps? :D

---

I'll get some temp numbers at idle and during a benchmark.

there is ectoplasm all over your computer:rofl:

Awsome build:up:

From all those condensation proof works, did you put dielectric grease on cpu socket?

Sorry didn't read all the posts on this thread, probly you did mention it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by l0ud_sil3nc3

there is ectoplasm all over your computer:rofl:

---

i like it..like this...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dumo

Awsome build:up:

From all those condensation proof works, did you put dielectric grease on cpu socket?

Sorry didn't read all the posts on this thread, probly you did mention it.

---

:up:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hondacity

i like it..like this...

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lol, definitely looks like my computer. I literally have like 2 lb of dragon skin on this thing.

pwned by photobucket bandwith limit

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Callsign_Vega

Testing CPU @ 5.5Ghz @ 1.59 vcore. Idling around 0 C and full IBT load around ~28C.

---

:eek: I stand corrected :clap:

Nice build Vega. I don't like insulation job on the motherboard though, but all in all nice job. Next project you may do a similiar plate HX water chiller like I did (see my sig)

O/T: You're also the DCS A-10C Warthog player? :yepp: I need a new HOTAS system.

Ya, A-10C ;). That dragon skin stuff is hard to work with as it does not like vertical surfaces! At least it is easy to remove if needed. The blob computer sure isn't going to win any "looks" awards but it is definitely a form following function build!

Kill-A-Watt surprisingly showing I am only using ~1100 watt with the following settings for initial testing:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...ga/Testing.jpg


F1 2010 with ~2900 MB VRAM usage 4x AA just a hair under 60 FPS. Min 49 FPS not too bad.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWZqS1wsGTc

killer setup, whats the resolution ?