watercool ARC1880IX-12

ok so ive been kicking around this idea to watercool my areca 1880IX-12. there are two HS on the device itself.
this thing is no slouch. it kicks off some serious heat. it will run @ 75C idle on the ROC with no air on the HS. also, the expander (the HS near the rear of the card) will run @ 65C idle. so i have two fans on the side of my rig pointed directly at these HS, and i am trying to go completely silent.
i am contemplating getting the new EK ram sink for my Doms' as well, and putting these two into a loop for themselves, with just a single 120 rad on them. The main reason for the separation of them onto their own loop is i switch gear alot. i dont want to deal with the headache of connecting/disconnecting this big ol loop everytime i switch GPU/CPU, so best to keep those separate.

however, i need ideas on where to even find a block for this beast, and the feasibility of this. gimme some criticism here plz :)


http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...5-58-44032.jpg

some varied pics here...
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=258008

might use one of these until i find a good smaller pump. bought one but turned out to be a fake :(

http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...0-25-48052.jpg

Don't think your going to find a "specific" block that fits but something like Koolance's GPU-210, Swiftech's MCW-30 or Enzotech's SNBW-SLI should fit but, you'll need 2 blocks.

ok so its definitely between that koolance and the enzo. that enzo is damn sexy, but the koolance matches my pump/res and also has the side ports that could make tubing a breeze between the two of them. then again some rotaries on the top of that enzo would do it. time to so some measuring i guess....

Fans. You run any spot fans on it or is it time for a new WC project? Bet some neat 80mm fans on the HS at low rpm would make all the diff. Typical 4 spot superglue on top of each HS would do wonders.

I cooled my Perc5i card using the Koolance CHC-122 MB for awhile. Now, while it is not necessary, I found that having just a large heatsink on it was not enough, so it was either water cool it or use a fan directly on it. With my current loop there is not an easy way for me to integrate it into the loop, so I am using a fan at a low setting which isn't loud. The main issue is how to mount it. It looks like you have push pins that go all the way through the PCB, so it should be easy, mine only had the loops which is why I did the CHC-122 block. For what it is worth, the Enzotech will work also. Here is a couple pics of what it looked like when I had it setup.

http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/3451/dsc00819i.th.jpg

http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/4...00818vs.th.jpg

As far as the memory goes, again, not necessary, but it does reduce the fan noise. A single 120mm rad should be more than enough for both.

The passive sink looks about the size of EK's universal chip-set blocks; and if there isn't one who's mounting holes line up, you can always make a new top out of some 8mm acetal/derlin with the mounting holes in the riht place.

Heatkiller NB/SB and SB SLI should fit no problem. Just throwing another option in there :).

not sure if this mips block would fit but could be worth checking out Mips Areca 12xx ml


fairly sure couple of these would fit though areca raid

Get on eBay and get some old school GPU block, DD Maze perhaps?

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I cooled my Perc5i card using the Koolance CHC-122 MB for awhile.

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looks good, but i do have a question here....it looks like there is only one tube going in? Water isnt going in and out?:confused:
im a WC noob so help me out :)

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time for a new WC project?

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:yepp::yepp: yeah getting bored waiting on some new SSD and controllers to come out, so time to mess with something that is perfectly fine as it is!

@ caveman2...thanks man! i wasnt even aware of that type of block! that is a helluva find!

So i am contemplating alot about this setup and thinking of how to get this done. Two very big considerations here is
*tubing could be a huge PITA going from two blocks. thats why this one looked so attractive to me, it also has side ports, chance to run a tube straight out the top of the card on the expander HS, and inbetween the two blocks straight across the card in the middle. however, still the issue of how to get tubing out?

http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...ullie1/WC1.png

*also i need a single slot solution. i love tri-sli. :) and this raid card gets down inbetween cards in certain setups. i dotn think with the depth of this one that it will remain single slot capable.

this though (courtesy of caveman) is looking to be the ticket! i will have to get with stevero and ask him about the spacing on the 1231 HS and see if it is the same as the 1880. i believe he still has both, but if it works this looks to be the clear winner~!

http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...ullie1/WC2.png

Let us know how it goes, this is so cool in a stupid way( no offense if you know what I mean ) if it works I'm so doing it lol

Yeah, I only had one tube connected when I took the pic. The other fitting is on the right there. I had to use two 90 degree fittings for it.

yeah just waiting for a reply...might have to dig up some manuals of the 1231 and see if i can get some spacing info there...if it does work i will get one, and might not WC the expander. it doesnt get near as hot.

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this is so cool in a stupid way

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Lol exactly why im doing it! it a pretty expensive card so might as well trick it out :)

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eah, I only had one tube connected when I took the pic. The other fitting is on the right there.

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jesus im blind :)

have you tried just using better sinks?

To be honest, i used to watercool my SAS card as well, and then well, its a PITFA.

Not saying you shouldnt try it, but have you considered 2 large sinks by enzo like this, and seeing if it solves your solution?

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...d/IMG_1611.jpg

i am fairly sure one of the enzo brackets will fit that spacing.

This looks like it could work:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/encnfoconohe1.html
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/sidewinderco..._2143_47375591

Funny - I just started searching for something like this in the last few days. Hope you have success!

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To be honest, i used to watercool my SAS card as well, and then well, its a PITFA.

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yeah it probably will be, which is part of the motivation to keep it in a separate loop so as not to have to be messed with constantly. doing it more for the awesome factor than anything. i like those bigger HS but i also worry they might not be able to maintain my goal of it remaining a single slot solution. thanks for the link though, that is a fine looking cooler, i bet it would easily outperform the one i have on there :)

The Mips 12xx ML block will work on the 1880 as Areca still uses same spacing.
Altough you'll have to do some minor modification on back of the block on the left from your photo.
Without, the marked component is way to high (1-2mm) to achieve full coverage of the chip surface.

http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/1499/raidvd.jpg

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Without, the marked component is way to high (1-2mm) to achieve straight coverage of the chip surface.

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excellent news, thank you. i was actually just on the phone with SteveRo and receiving his measurements from tyhe 1231, and about to power off and check with my calipers :)

i see what you are talking about (the audible alarm) do you think i should remove it? many remove it anyways or plug it up with putty to shut that thing up. its loud as hell on bootup for sure! id o prefer to leave it on.
not sure if i want to remove it though, i actually prefer it, as it helped me to diagnose a problem a few months back....
are you suggesting modifying the block itself?
i am not sure if i am going to watercool that sink though. the HS i am thinking of doing first is the one on the right, that houses the ROC which is much hotter than the expander. not sure what i will do right now....i know im getting the mips for sure though for the ROC.

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minor modification on back of the block

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not sure by what you mean by this...please explain?

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are you suggesting modifying the block itself?

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Guess it's up to your needs. Alarm sound or not, that's the question. :)

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not sure by what you mean by this...please explain?

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If yes to alarm sound you'll just need to sand/dremel away about 1mm (still enough material there after) at the position where the blocks back hits the mentioned component.
It will not even need the full circle as the block ends at about the mid of the circular component surface.

Otherwise the better solution might be to use a 1mm thermal pad for the chip and you're fine out without sanding.
I've actually not mounted my blocks but I guess this might be the best solution.

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If yes to alarm sound you'll just need to sand/dremel away about 1-2mm at the position where the blocks back hits the mentioned component.

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well i have a dremel, but man i am not sure about sanding on a waterblock....what if it goes to deep? also, there is a header there next to the buzzer, with ten pins sticking out. about .090 lower than the surface of the top of that buzzer. dont know about messing with those.

http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...7-08-20137.jpg

Ok, just had a detailed look and took some photos:
It needs about 0.5-1mm at two or one (thermal pad solution) place(s).

I forgot there's another clearance issue at the chip area too. But it's minor as the other one. Really, the photos are making it a bigger deal than it is in real. ;)
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/7476/foto916.jpg

Don't worry about the pin socket there, that area is clear except the mentioned alarm 'bumper' there.
http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/9678/foto917.jpg

Easy to desolder and backmount but I guess warranty is over than too.
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/8585/foto918.jpg

nice! man that looks good...i can see myself making it work. big problem though, i cant find it anywhere other than aqua, and i just bought their last one. cannot find this block anywhere spent much time googling until my fingers hurt. even went to MIPS site, and cant seem to find it. oh well one is inbound. i did email and ask them when it will be available. would be nice, and i have a ton of thermal pad, i always order a bunch when i get it, as it always seems to be out of stock.

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Originally Posted by Computurd

i cant find it anywhere other than aqua, and i just bought their last one. cannot find this block anywhere spent much time googling until my fingers hurt. even went to MIPS site

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you need to look at the german site for Mips

You'lll see a link for RAID-Controller Kühler, they've got 1 in stock for each type if thats what your after.

for what ever reason their euro site doesnt list some of the more unique stuff they make :shrug:

Computurd, maybe this solution might work: Instead of removing the alarm, flip it over to the other side. If I remember correctly, most buzzers have only 2 soldering points. Just desolder those two, and move it to the backside of the board. There seems to be plenty of room there :p:.

the only thing is this...i have no idea how to solder/unsolder. also, that will void warranty im sure.

@caveman...i cant order off there. i cant read it! and i tried google translate but none of the site buttons work when i use it, seriously sucks i have a ton of gear headed this way to rework my total watercooling system, and this could hold me up big time!

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Originally Posted by Computurd

the only thing is this...i have no idea how to solder/unsolder. also, that will void warranty im sure.

@caveman...i cant order off there. i cant read it! and i tried google translate but none of the site buttons work when i use it, seriously sucks i have a ton of gear headed this way to rework my total watercooling system, and this could hold me up big time!

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At the bottom of the page you'll see 2 small images of the planet and a German flag next to each other, click on the planet and that switches the text to English. If you look just below the product menu box, you'll see where it says ">>Questions? Leave a message<<", click on that and leave them your e-mail and let them know that your interested in getting something from the German site but are unable to order it due to "limitations" on yours and Google's part. ;)

Or mail Michael from Mips directly:
info@mips-computer.de
vertrieb@mips-computer.de

Im with NaeKuh on this one. It doesnt take alot of wattage the heat thoose small heatsinks to 75c. All you need is some better heatsinks.

Power Requirement:
1.11W max. +3.3V
16.92W max. +12V

yeah it isnt a big load but... if i leave the fan off it gets quite hot. using the raid manager when the card is being used it is hitting 80C @idle. also, i have a digital sensor from my tbalancer on there and it is picking up some very high temps @ the heatsink level. with the digital sensors i am getting 77.5 on the ROC, and 62 on the expander.
oh well this arrived this morning! the gummy bears is a nice treat, wow!


it is heavier than i expected. for this reason i will probably stick with just one block for the ROC, and look for other heatsink for the expander. surely there are some specific air heatsinks for the 1231 out there somewhere...hell theres a block for it :)
a big goal is to have them be able to maintain single slot. the ones NaeKuh linked above are 1 inch high, so they would hit next slot...but definitely the right idea.
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...2-20-27902.jpg
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...2-20-36212.jpg

Careful with the Koolai...er...I mean Gummy bears. Never know what they may be spiked with...they may make you buy more from that place. :down::p:

As for the tall heat sinks, you could use wire cutters on them to cut them to size...or do what we used to do with RAM sinks on VGA cards back in the day...bend them so they were no longer in the way. We even went so far as to give the way we bent them hairstyle names. :rofl:

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We even went so far as to give the way we bent them hairstyle names.

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ROFL! i dunno man i got an email from the guy in germany about the second waterblock...and these gummy bears are tasting really good....

yeah i forgot just how hot this B*tch runs..ive had two 120 fans on it all these months, turning them off .....here is the internal monitoring on the card itself, and my digital temp probes concur with these temps on the HS as well. they are HOT to the touch as well! guess i may need that second waterblcok as well...
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...1/ROCtemps.png

:O i dont see any green gummy bears!

75c - wow didn't realise it gets that hot!!!

areca says its safe up to 90C, but right now its idling around 85 with no fan. this should work for expander....
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...expanderHS.png

http://www.jab-tech.com/Enzotech-Low...1-pr-3977.html

http://www.jab-tech.com/images/D/d_3...?1297219676784

They take standard 3 pin connectors.

There u got active + full copper... u wanna ask for more? the I/O Gods might call ya greedy. :X

also computard... if you ask me.. i would first try to DREMEL the block so that speaker can clear b4 u hack the speaker.
Its far less costly to replace the block, then it is to replace the card.

Also have you thought about using a spacer to give the block a bit more lift height?
Seeing how its just the core which needs to be touched, a shim between the die and the block would work.
This is a IO controller card, not a GPU or CPU.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/28...et_Spacer.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/images/prod...e/koo-14_2.jpg

like this.. to lift the block up a little.
And it seems like you just need a milimeter or 2 at most.

Or you can find a pure copper coin and lap it to flatness..
OR find a hacked IHS and lap that.

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Originally Posted by eva2000

75c - wow didn't realise it gets that hot!!!

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Dude they get ridiculously hot if left passive.

I think most controller cards of this size were meant for U4 cases with high powered san aces screaming air inside the system.

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I think most controller cards of this size were meant for U4 cases with high powered san aces screaming air inside the system.

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yeah areca rates them @ 90C! that is unbelievable to me. i mean thats hot as hell! that is a nice HS that has the fan mount. the spacer is an excellent idea! i am not going to place a waterblock on the heatsink with the buzzer, it is an expander chip, and not as crazy with the heat as the ROC that is by the pci bracket.
but i am having issue with the chip i am trying to cool, and this spacer could come in quite handy. there is a swivel 90 that comes out of my second GPU right where the block will come off of the card, and there is just BARELY not enough room for the block with a plug in that side of it. these pics illustrate the close proximity of said 90.
now my initial idea to avoid this problem was to buy two different 90's that appear to have a bit of a lower profile, as in the last pic you can see how the block will lay a bit over the edge of the card, and i have to put some plugs on the other side of the areca waterblock right where that 90 is. also, there is a thought to put the 90 on the inside of the GPU, however, that 90 is too big for that. so dunno this is a obstruction and your mention of the spacer helps to alleviate this issue! the 90's should be here tommorow, and if they arent small enough to fit between the GPU's then i will be ordering the spacer stat!
lol the guys at frozencpu are gonna think im big time retarded. that would be like my fourth order so far! shipping is kickin my ass :(
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...1-10-15559.jpg
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...1-13-27013.jpg
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...ullie1/WC2.png

HOUSTON we have a problem....
this is the screw that mounts to the block...it has to come from the rear side of the card and this is not good. there is also a washer i need to fit in there, but obviously if the screw doesnt fit...
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...3-15-34508.jpg
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...3-15-22891.jpg

Maybe a small custom backplate will do the trick...

do it the old way we used to do it.

Get a Plastic washer to raise the height so you can screw it in and have the standoff push down on the card, instead of the bolt head pushing down on the card.

So Block (Card) (standoff) (Bolt)

Should raise the base of the bolt so u can screw it down and go over the ram.


And sorry to say this, but u have been having nothing but FAIL on that MIPS block.

At this point, i would chug it and look for another solution.
If you have to mod the block so much to get it to work, whats the point in the block.

I think you could of sent the card out to a friend of mine, and had him custom you a full card one for almost the same as 2 of those blocks, and not have installation problems.
If i was in your shoes, i would of probably asked Bei, or drive out to Iandh, bribe him with lunch, to go out of his sabbatical.

But dude.. MIPS = FAIL in this solution. Sorry SiX, this block just doesnt work.

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this block just doesnt work.

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Not to be arrogant or anything, but i dont give up this easily. not by a long shot. this will work. i will make it so. :)


the fun for me is in conquering the obstacles, and trying to do something that either hasnt been, or shouldnt be, done. yeah, many have watercooled raid cards.
but not this one, and not using this block.
since there isnt a commercially available block we will be forced to blaze the trail. with your excellent guidance though!
wouldnt be this far without you and WL help thats for sure. :)

modified some shims, Ace is the Place i found another fastener :)
after first shim
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...1-02-25162.jpg
second shim gives oh so close clearance :)
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...1-11-47407.jpg

Hmm, You got me wondering if that block can be used on old 2 hole push pin nVidia cards? :para::rofl:...and skinnee...shut up! :hammer::p::ROTF:

:) thats a good question!

so i have the block on there for the most part, dissasembling my current loop i have spotted something down in my full board EK block. so....its green which is VERY not good....i removed the bridge on it, and it is definitely down in there. my question is this:

can i remove the entire top of the EK full board classified block while it is still connected to the mobo? without reinstalling the whole thing? man ive had to install that thing on two boards and its a PITA and i dont want to mess with it just wanna pull the entire top off....but i know with flexing and things of that nature took into consideration...should it be done?

looks scary actually....
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...0-36-59494.jpg

Here's a question that may determine your answer.

Do you want to mess with the o-ring for the top with the block still attached to the board? ;)

that is a question i am not sure of. i have never done it. i am taking it that i dont want to? but theoretically if i was 'very skillful' it could be done, right?
man this might be corrosion. this is ugly.
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...0-39-38221.jpg

They can be troublesome for some, especially first timers. Looks like some of the plating is missing, hard to make out the rest.

well seeing as i like to do things the hard way the first time, and then the easy way after i learn my lesson we will have some pics here in a second :)

damn this is terrible. has to be some type of record for the amount of corrosion here. im assuming this is caused from corrosion. the other side of the block is just fine. nothing on it. what are my options?
it isnt deep, its like right on the surface. seriously depressed here.
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...1-02-32062.jpg
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...1-02-41565.jpg
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...1-02-49290.jpg

Most of that looks like the plating has been eroded by the flow rate, really doubt it's corrosion.

well i guess this 655 is no joke, eh? but still i feel the prognosis is dim here for some reason. it looks like :banana::banana::banana::banana:. can i put this in a loop on a good rad? or is it trash? but wth should it erode like this?

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Originally Posted by Computurd

well i guess this 655 is no joke, eh? but still i feel the prognosis is dim here for some reason. it looks like :banana::banana::banana::banana:. can i put this in a loop on a good rad? or is it trash? but wth should it erode like this?

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Your fine with copper/brass rads.

Water carved the Grand Canyon, you think a little nickel plating stands a chance? ;)

lol dude big sigh of relief.:worship:
now to put this back together...jesus you know how hard thats gonna be now that i look at it?:explode:

should i give it a good clean with some ketchup first? or just leave it as is?

and just for clarification it should be good with this BIPS and swiftech stacker i have?

Cleaning is going to depend on how much it's going to bug you if you don't. ;)

Yeah, you'll be fine with those.

Let me guess: there's copper in the loop, and no anti-corrosion additive was added?

In a loop with copper and nickel, the nickel will be corroded... ;)

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But dude.. MIPS = FAIL in this solution. Sorry SiX, this block just doesnt work.

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These 12xxML mips blocks were never intended to be used on 1880 cards. So as mentioned you'll have to start your dremel to get the job done.
Anyway it was fun to do and I guess that's what counts, isn't it? ;)


Finally today I had some time to get the blocks ready.

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/7707/foto938.jpg http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/1400/foto933.jpg
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/8776/foto934l.jpg http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/4691/foto939.jpg

But of course you can also use some heatsinks. :ROTF:

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/8306/foto936m.jpg

Baldux i hate you. you totally stole my thunder.

that is beautiful. an excellent job! your looks so much better than mine will, i am only going with one block.


great job! wow impressive. where did you get those ram HS and how did you apply them?
also, how much of a drop have you noticed on your expander? not sure if its worth a WB, there isnt one available for a few weeks, and that may just keep me from getting one if the copper HS works fine.

Thanks, I'm also glad it has come out fine. Planned this for quite a while but was too lazy to execute it till today. :)
Block cover plates have been polished and nickel plated again, just to fit other blocks.
The mips stock plating is very dull but for some blocks they newly offer polish and high-grade nickel plating. Guess one has just too ask.

The heatsinks are Enzotech MOS-C10, just nickel plated. I've not really attached them to the ram chips. It was more a joke as those aren't getting that hot.
Iirc the hs already come with pre-cut adhesive 3M 8815 thermal pads. I'll use the hs for my mobo.

For sure a hs is sufficient for the expander, altough I've not measured air temps before.
Anyhow the waterblock is more for looks as those chips should be able to run stable up to 90°C-100°C and you'll not reach this under standard use if there's only one fan around.
Will take some time till the block will be going under water as at the moment I need my working machine 24/7.

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Originally Posted by Dr.Joe

Let me guess: there's copper in the loop, and no anti-corrosion additive was added?

In a loop with copper and nickel, the nickel will be corroded... ;)

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:confused: First I'm hearing of this? :confused:;)

If this were the case, there would be a whole lot more ppl screaming bloody murder. Fact is, copper and nickel get along just fine. :fact:

so i am placing this pic for your thoughts guys...to the few who are reading LOL.....the size of this copper HS is much smaller than the original Areca one. (fun fact, it has areca etched down on the base plate below the pins. why i have no idea you cant see it unles you are staring directly into the HS)
back to the issue, the smaller copper on is well, smaller! do you think it will dissipate heat well enough? i know the areca definitely is not copper, as it is way lighter.
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...2-56-13176.jpg

Without a fan (even a small one) that copper going to get H...O...T...not because of the smaller size but, rather the better transfer rate.

I probably would have opted for the version with the fan built it and under volted it but, yeah...it'll work well.

yea i agonized over this, but this caught my eye:

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anufacturer: Adda
Size: 35x35x6 mm
Part #: AD3512MB-K73S
Volts: 12v DC
Current: 0.06 amp
Power: 0.72 watt
RPM: 8000
CFM: 4.7
Noise: 28 dB(A)

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seems a bit loud, eh? for such a small fan? i have some real tiny fans though that is real quiet i used on a classy NB so that might work i can get that on thar if need be i guess..
bought the spacer for the block btw, and that was a total no-go. was too thick so i busted out the dremel and looks like :banana::banana::banana::banana: but its functional enough.
got the gentle typhoons in and man it was like losing virginity hooking that up about an hour ago....man they are just beautiful. when they just kept spinning and spinning after like thirty seconds after i turned them off i was just setting there in awe. my my my what a beautiful fan!

Funny you should bring it up. I just did this to a 15mm Delta (wish I'd wrote the number down:() for a FX5500 (that had a dead fan) for an old Shuttle I'm reviving. Hacked the Delta out of the frame and stuck it to the sink with some 3M 8815. Cut the plug off the dead fan and soldered it to a small round breadboard I got from RadioShack. I then wired up a 1KΩ .75W trim pot to be able to tune it to a noise level that what was somewhat palatable and provided enough cooling power.

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/1867/sn150949.jpg

http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/9339/sn150950.jpg

I can take better detailed pics if your interested.

hmm only thig is that is probably way above my skill level with electronics. i knwo nothing of soldering, and hooking into a cards electrical source like that is something i dunno if i would be able to do...the areca does have a fan header on it btw :) but i do not think you can adjust the fan output. i have never used it. also though there is a fan header that is right there on the mobo. that is an awesome mod though that is cool.
i do have these small fans handy though...some are real old school, i was driving along and seen a garage sale of all things with bunches of computer gear. stopped and snapped up some goodies, but here are the fans im working with and a small round fan (blue one) that i find interesting, i found two of them. i wouldn't use it on the card though for sure! i am probably going to use the one closest to the copper HS on the pic as it has the smallest spindle in the middle, so i imagine it will have the best airflow. that one actaully came off 680i NB. will also have to do some db 'testing' with each i guess

http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...0-14-42947.jpg

I wouldn't underestimate those Sunon's you have there (those look like some sort of Maglev version). I have some old 120 x 38 Sunons (KD1212PMB3-6A) they say run @ 2400 RPM and push 84CFM, both are probably true...@ 6.6V. When I dial all the way up, I get 11.8V to the fan and it's spinning @ 3700RPM and who knows how much air (pressure could be better though).

yea the little barstids push some serious air, but they whine worse than my 14 yr old daughter:p:

hmmm gonna have to see what kinda justice i can get with some pwm/analogue on the tbalancer. i will have one free fan channel and it seems some to waste it on a tiny fan such as this....however, i also can put a digital sensor right on that copper beastie and run a curve on it, might be able to keep the screaming down except when benching. wont need too much pressure, there isnt much restriction there :) when i do some PCMark Vantage runs that raid card gets so hot you can cook eggs on it....i mean you can feel the heat radiating off it when its under 8 ssd load. will be interesting, very fun to play with! cleaned up the ek fullboard block and have a kmp-400 on it right now leak testing. your right that washer kept popping out took me over an hour.:bsod:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

:confused: First I'm hearing of this? :confused:;)

If this were the case, there would be a whole lot more ppl screaming bloody murder. Fact is, copper and nickel get along just fine. :fact:

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They get along just fine in the short run, but in the long run the nickel gets corroded...

however, i really doubt this is erosion due to the abrasive force of the cooling fluid. theres no particles in water, and the flowrate is pretty low, even with a d5...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dr.Joe

They get along just fine in the short run, but in the long run the nickel gets corroded...

however, i really doubt this is erosion due to the abrasive force of the cooling fluid. theres no particles in water, and the flowrate is pretty low, even with a d5...

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To this, there is only one proper response...

http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/7484/facepalmw.gif

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

Without a fan (even a small one) that copper going to get H...O...T...not because of the smaller size but, rather the better transfer rate.

I probably would have opted for the version with the fan built it and under volted it but, yeah...it'll work well.

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actually i dont think its going to get that hot.

Because the transfer is better, so is disipation.
So unless he has like 0 rate of air flow in there, even something small would still keep that sink in check.

And OP, yes, that copper sink is better then the ALU.
Its about Mass, which weigh's more?

Im fairly sure the Copper sink still weighs more.


Lastly if ur in doubt on your KL block, Email Tim and ask him, is this normal?

well the copper is WAY heavier. i feel that it will dissipate and conduct better for sure.

as to the block, i really will go with WL theory. i cleaned it up and whatnot, all of the 'damage' isnt even skin-deep so to say. i mean it is very superficial, so long term i dont think it will cause an issue. i already have it together and it just completed 12 hour leak test, so i will put it on a loop and then test for another 24 hours, if its good then off we go!

cant wait to get started finally i have *almost* everything i need to finish so i am doing some heavy duty stuff today.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Computurd

well the copper is WAY heavier. i feel that it will dissipate and conduct better for sure.

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Yeah im sure the enzo will work a lot better.

The only way u can cheat mass is via heat pipes because ur using a submedium inside the pipes.

Or change to a heavier metal with better conductivity, like silver, or to carbon nano tubes.. but then good luck removing the heat from the tubes.

I would have gone two of these:

http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...?product_id=87

in one block, then to the next, the out the 2nd block :yepp:

& before anyone cries foul on the tube size..: :rolleyes:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=147767

besides, for said application, its plenty :up:


edit: tho I must say, that MIPS block is haaawt! :slobber:

mine is not as shiny, i didnt know you could have them plated/buffed. i still like it though :) copper HS might be temporary. we will see how temps do.

http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...3-09-14380.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Computurd

mine is not as shiny, i didnt know you could have them plated/buffed. i still like it though :) copper HS might be temporary. we will see how temps do.

http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...3-09-14380.jpg

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thats so darn XTREME :D shame on u posting such poor qual pics! :p: :slapass: :D

:up:

just in case I missed it, what are ur temps now? :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Computurd

mine is not as shiny, i didnt know you could have them plated/buffed. i still like it though :) copper HS might be temporary. we will see how temps do.

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Gotta watercool them all! :D
Good job! :up:
And post the temps. :yepp:

well well well....as i stand back and take these pics i realize what a monster this has become!
originally just wanted to watercool my areca outta sheer boredom. then i looked around and realized i had amassed all this gear so why not use it?
so i have a separate loop for the GPU, they can be pulled anytime. they are on the honda radiator.

Then i have a hybrid loop. two loops sharing one res that sets on the desk. this is to share overflow cooling capacity from the lesser loop. the lesser loop being a bip dual rad with ram/fullboard block/and areca on it.
the other 'loop' on that is just the cpu and two 320 swiftech rads, which are down under the desk. i can pull the cpu anytime, it is set up so that it can be pulled separately as well.

in the end it looks like on big jumbled mess, but that is fine. this is a benching rig FWIW. holds the four core PCMark Vantage world record...and somewhat of a scientists mad experiment look to it i guess.
not gonna win much in the looks department, but for sheer cooling power she is a mofo i bet once i fire up the rig.
doing 24 loop test right now so the wiring hasnt been cleaned up, stuff still hanging everywhere. but tbh, it wont look much better when done:p:

http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...1/DSCF4612.jpg
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...1/DSCF4610.jpg
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...1/DSCF4607.jpg
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...1/DSCF4614.jpg
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...1/DSCF4616.jpg

You definitely get points for using everything! Can't wait to see how it performs.

been there, and done that... lol.

told ya, its going to look like that when ur done.

ahhh... feels like im walking down memory lane.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

To this, there is only one proper response...

http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/7484/facepalmw.gif

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:rofl:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Table_o...ode_potentials

i guess you learned how to read?

well all of that aside...finally the rig is back together and running fine. tbh i couldnt be happier i mean seriously this came out very very well. got all 8 fans on the 2 swiftech/bip and the 4 fans on the honda (lol) all running on a curve on the TBalancer and MiniNG, it has never been quieter! and temps...boy temps are way better cpu is idling @ 30-32 which is awesome, considering fans are at 35-40 percent. after three hours and here is the results with a small fan on the expander @ 40 percent (almost inaudible) and the waterblock of course, my god this areca has never been happier!

http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...e1/roflMAO.png

so u went from....75C(?) to 41C?! nice! :up:

actually the difference is much much more than that! :) look at the CPU, that is the one with the waterblock..from 86 to 30, and that is the more important one by far. and the expander is the controller temp, went from 70ish to 41 with a copper HS and a small fan. actually it can go to 35 if i put the fan at 100 percent.

before
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...1/ROCtemps.png

after
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...e1/roflMAO.png

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Computurd

actually the difference is much much more than that! :) look at the CPU, that is the one with the waterblock..from 86 to 30, and that is the more important one by far. and the expander is the controller temp, went from 70ish to 41 with a copper HS and a small fan. actually it can go to 35 if i put the fan at 100 percent.

before
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...1/ROCtemps.png

after
http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u...e1/roflMAO.png

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:shocked::shocked::shocked: very VERY nice! :yepp: :cool:

I wonder what temps one would get if u mod-mounted a TR HR05 chipset cooler to these RAID cards (they have 2 heatpipes) :shrug: :D

edit: u should share the results with ARECA *esp the one with the copper cooler - they should definitely change out their alu hs' for copper ones :yepp:

Quote:

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edit: u should share the results with ARECA *esp the one with the copper cooler - they should definitely change out their alu hs' for copper ones

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yea they definitely should. the copper HS is far smaller too! i dunno how worried they are about it though, these things are designed to be in server racks with big fans blasting! i am very pleased with the performance though :)

can believe how much better these temps are seriously. the pic with the 86 is IDLE. the pic with 30 is when i am doing a backup with Acronis, so definitely under load. with raidsets with parity i am sure this thing could get cooking over 100C. i have seen as high as 95 before.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dr.Joe

:rofl:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Table_o...ode_potentials

i guess you learned how to read?

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http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/7484/facepalmw.gifhttp://img825.imageshack.us/img825/7484/facepalmw.gif

Why are they always........? :shakes:

Guess you never heard of "nobility of metals" huh? Do yourself a favor and read this (Link), and educate yourself a bit please. The closer 2 metals are, the less of a problem there will be with corrosion...and, if you look at the chart, nickel and copper are bosom buddies. Another interesting tidbit you might want to read is here (Link).