Laing DDC pump repair PCB mod

After replaced the PCB of DDC 18W, the ampere increased from 1.5A to 1.8A,
the flow rate increased about 20% (using stock top)
The audible noise is also increased:eek: it should be caused by the increased rotation speed:up:
The IC leg spacing is only 0.33mm, drag soldering is the only way:rolleyes:
I have accidentally reverse the diode and the most expensive IC burn immediately at connecting the power:shrug:
This controller TB6588FG is an all-in-one design, it has built-in overheat and restart protection, only a few external component can get it work, the original laing design is unnecessary complex.
This IC also have built-in speed control, connecting a variable resistor can adjust the rotation speed.
More information can be found in the Toshiba semiconductor website, it has datasheet and official circuit to follow.

DDC pump repair in 3 mins video guide
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_Rpty4lWgg

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/8620/tb6588fg1.jpg
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/84/tb6588fg2.jpg
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/4426/tb6588fg3.jpg

How it can be regulated? Can it be downvolted, and at low voltage/speed at that? Is pwm regulation possible for this controller? (who knows, maybe DIY cheap PWM MCP35X mod is possible :) )

no need to downvolt, the IC has a pin to control the rotation speed:)
the IC spec. told it can run at 50V. I will try it later to see if my DDC can run at 3X rotation speed i.e. 20000rpm:eek::cool:

Hheh, something like Iwaki RD pumps but in DDC housing? :D
What was cost of your mod? Does that controller include that PCB or it's original from pump?

the mod cost 9.95 only, it's a repair kit from the internet

looks good, i might look into this

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wizard1238

the mod cost 9.95 only, it's a repair kit from the internet

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share a link please.

edit: found it

also found these two interesting lots from the same guy:
Laing DDC water pump 12W swiftech MCP350 with heatsink
Laing DDC water pump 18W blue rotor MCP355 heatsink

If the specs are true and the quality is high, then these are great alternative considering the price!

http://cgi.ebay.com/Laing-DDC-water-...item4cf46b3d8a

Hmm, really cheap. Should help those with fried PCBs DDCs. Only problem - required soldering skills on advanced side. And how speed regulation is actually done?

omg u serious?

this works?

>.<

how much soldering is required?

If this is a good repair, then i can think of a lot of people who u just made super happy, as well as vendors who can sell this as well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by churchy

Hmm, really cheap. Should help those with fried PCBs DDCs. Only problem - required soldering skills on advanced side. And how speed regulation is actually done?

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sell the presoldered boards for a straight drop replacement and u win even if you were to sell the pcb @ 29.99

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NaeKuh

omg u serious?

this works?

>.<

how much soldering is required?

If this is a good repair, then i can think of a lot of people who u just made super happy, as well as vendors who can sell this as well.



sell the presoldered boards for a straight drop replacement and u win even if you were to sell the pcb @ 29.99

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I have a couple of DDC-2's still hanging around that I'd buy these for but, not from overseas (or fleaBay for that matter).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by churchy

And how speed regulation is actually done?

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Quote:

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Based around a Toshiba PWM sensorless driver ASSP, the TB6588FG evaluation board (TB6588FG_EVB1) allows engineers to modify key parameters that adjust start-up performance, motor efficiency and acoustic noise. The board is designed for direct control by voltage input or connection to a host processor, and connects directly to the motor under test with no additional hardware components. Target applications for the new board include home appliance, pump, industrial and automotive motion control designs.

---

source

Hmm, thanks for info SpuTnick. Then it seems that for 29.99 presoldered board with PWM regulation capability for reviving dead DDC pumps might indeed find it's market :). A bit too expensive if working new 355 pump + board for 29.99 though, as it's already MCP35X price, with better top aswell.

Why $29.99? it costs $9.95? or I am missing something?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SpuTnicK

share a link please.

edit: found it

also found these two interesting lots from the same guy:
Laing DDC water pump 12W swiftech MCP350 with heatsink
Laing DDC water pump 18W blue rotor MCP355 heatsink

If the specs are true and the quality is high, then these are great alternative considering the price!

---

Very interesting... but I hate small surface mount components.... but it looks so interesting.... but I hate surface mount..... but...but... Gwaargh!!! CONFLICT!!!

Hm, wait a second... I'm sure I could mod my toaster oven to serve as a crude reflow oven.

I think I'll pick one up to play with. :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Petra

Very interesting... but I hate small surface mount components.... but it looks so interesting.... but I hate surface mount..... but...but... Gwaargh!!! CONFLICT!!!

Hm, wait a second... I'm sure I could mod my toaster oven to serve as a crude reflow oven.

I think I'll pick one up to play with. :D

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It will be interesting to see how you get one with this.

I would buy a kit myself but I dont have any SMD soldering kit handy at the moment.

SpuTnicK: $29.9 was mentioned by Naekuh as good price to sell such $9.95 board/controllers but with all needed chips already presoldered as answer to my post on 'advanced soldering skills required' :)

:doh: missed that one.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SpuTnicK

:doh: missed that one.

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lol the fictional 20 dollar labor charge!

:D

seriously i can see vendors selling this unit at 29.99 if they had it pre soldered and it being a hot item.

I myself have 2 ddc's i can easily change the PCB too, and give it a resurrection.

Now im waiting for alex to somehow drop a super charger on it... or Martin to somehow throw NOS voltages of 20V on this badboy, and we can call it a THREAD!

I wanna see this running at least 36V :D

"If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits eighty-eight Volts... you're gonna see some serious :banana::banana::banana::banana:. "

so hold on... ive got my MPC 355 at home, and a soldering kit handy.

are you saying if i buy this kit for 10 bucks

i can volt up my DDC so it more or less equals the power of 2 of them???

and i wont need any other components?

if i do need other components could someone make me a shopping list :)
im in the UK so it will take a while for it to get here but if this is correct it will save me a lot of cash

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Spazloy

so hold on... ive got my MPC 355 at home, and a soldering kit handy.

are you saying if i buy this kit for 10 bucks

i can volt up my DDC so it more or less equals the power of 2 of them???

and i wont need any other components?

if i do need other components could someone make me a shopping list :)
im in the UK so it will take a while for it to get here but if this is correct it will save me a lot of cash

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According to the datasheet, the Toshiba controller IC is 50V maximum. For higher than 12V operation, the power stabilization capactior 22uf and 0.1uf voltage rating need to increase. For higher than 30V operation, the Schottky Diode voltage rating need to increase as well.

ok folks,

could not resist! just ordered one of this kits!

its just 10usd and free shipping so who cares? was too curious.

let you know how this turns out ...

Have ordered one my self to the UK. I have someone with a reflow oven so hopefully get a good join. This DDC 3.2 i have has been dead for sometime so i will test it out fully, 20K RPM be cool

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SpuTnicK

also found these two interesting lots from the same guy:
Laing DDC water pump 12W swiftech MCP350 with heatsink
Laing DDC water pump 18W blue rotor MCP355 heatsink

If the specs are true and the quality is high, then these are great alternative considering the price!

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Damn those are some snazzy prices. Looks like I am going to have to order a bunch. :p:

Installing the modifier PCB looks like way too much work for my lazy ***.

It would be good to know if those pumps are a good bargain.
So don't forget to share your exp. here ;)

with this new pcb, is it still possible to mod the 3.1s to 3.2s via the solder mod? Ｉ wanna buy like 4 of these pumps because it's such a good deal!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Boogerlad

with this new pcb, is it still possible to mod the 3.1s to 3.2s via the solder mod? Ｉ wanna buy like 4 of these pumps because it's such a good deal!

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If I understand things correctly, you don't mod this like the 3.1/3.2 mod, it works of straight voltage control.

so since 3.1=3.2 other than solder difference, with this new pcb, there's no performance difference between 3.1 and 3.2?

There is no 3.1 or 3.2 (or 3.25 or MCP35x for that matter) with this repair kit. How much voltage you use is how fast it runs.

So, you will need to solder the items to the board first before putting the PCB into a DDC pump? Then, solder 8 copper tiny lead-wires of the pump armature to the new PCB?

It sounds like a job for really tiny fingers and a professional hobbyist soldering station.

But the thrill to have an all out DDC with no limits and a POT (variable resistor) is very intriguing. I have several dozen DDC-1T (MCP350) pumps on hand but no pro solder station.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Petra

Very interesting... but I hate small surface mount components.... but it looks so interesting.... but I hate surface mount..... but...but... Gwaargh!!! CONFLICT!!!

Hm, wait a second... I'm sure I could mod my toaster oven to serve as a crude reflow oven.

I think I'll pick one up to play with. :D

---

I've been using a heat gun (used to strip paint) to reflow-solder dozens of LEDs onto various types of PCBs. Works like a charm. If you happen to have a thermocouple sensor as well, you can even regulate the temperature by raising the whole thing up and down over time (and thus follow proper reflow preheat, solder and cooldown times and rates). :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

There is no 3.1 or 3.2 (or 3.25 or MCP35x for that matter) with this repair kit. How much voltage you use is how fast it runs.

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http://cgi.ebay.com/Laing-DDC-water-...item35af2f581c
=
http://cgi.ebay.com/Laing-DDC-water-...item35af10a72a
???
according to you right?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Boogerlad

http://cgi.ebay.com/Laing-DDC-water-...item35af2f581c
=
http://cgi.ebay.com/Laing-DDC-water-...item35af10a72a
???
according to you right?

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The one is POST-REPAIR PCB mod.

The other is PRE-REPAIR PCB mod.

So no, they are not the same. Why the attitude?

sorry, Ｉ didn't mean any attitude. I'm really confused lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sparky

The one is POST-REPAIR PCB mod.

The other is PRE-REPAIR PCB mod.

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I do believe Boogerman is right. Neither of those pumps are using the PCB that diyinhk has for sale on eBay. If you do this modification to both of those pumps, then yes they would be exactly the same.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Boogerlad

http://cgi.ebay.com/Laing-DDC-water-...item35af2f581c
=
http://cgi.ebay.com/Laing-DDC-water-...item35af10a72a
???
according to you right?

---

Neither of those are using the repair PCB kit. They are regular DDC's with the special liquid compensator housing. What you asked about was the repair kit being modable like the old 3.1 to 3.2 hack.

sorry, Ｉ was referring to

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SpuTnicK

share a link please.

edit: found it

also found these two interesting lots from the same guy:
Laing DDC water pump 12W swiftech MCP350 with heatsink
Laing DDC water pump 18W blue rotor MCP355 heatsink

If the specs are true and the quality is high, then these are great alternative considering the price!

---

Can't really say but it does look like they are the right models for the mod.

Now I'm confused.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...leys/silly.gif

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sparky

Now I'm confused.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...leys/silly.gif

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The pumps he is selling do not come w/ the modified PCB that he also sells. He sells DDC3.1's and DDC3.2's. The only real difference is the PCB on them. So if you were to throw in the modified PCB's in them. Then they would be pretty much the same pump.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lowfat

The pumps he is selling do not come w/ the modified PCB that he also sells. He sells DDC3.1's and DDC3.2's. The only real difference is the PCB on them. So if you were to throw in the modified PCB's in them. Then they would be pretty much the same pump.

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He is using another PCB on the MCP350 But not the blue one.
Also the MCP350 is not a 3.1 but it has a black impeller, so its a 2.

The PCB is replaced by the famous Japanese SANYO motor driver. It has built in overheat, motor lock and even water leak protection. It's much more advance, reliable and silent than the original. Moreover, it use 2oz copper thickness PCB and Teflon wire for the power cable. It also has the TACH/RPM wire(blue wire in pics). We have confidence and our custom PCB is provided with 1 year warranty

The seller also told me this

The 12W DDC use our new Sanyo motor driver PCB, it's not on sale in ebay yet. It's running at 3600rpm, the same speed as a MCP350. The 12W is black impeller. There are test in the internet that black impeller has bigger center hole than the latest blue impeller, and the performace is better.

And the MCP355 is 3.2, without any modifications on the PCB.

Most definite is that someone has to buy each of those three parts and fully examine what are they capable of.

zenix: you could also ask him if he can make PCB or premoded pump to be regulateable via PWM / MCP-35X alike, and consider selling presoldered kits, even if at higher price.

guys keep note, that our current tops were designed with the pumps which we use right now.

Not ddc's with volume compensator.

Last thing to note, not all tops are M4 threaded.

These ddc's with larger base housing will require your screws to fit in stock housing or your gonna have one hell of a time at a hardware store looking for the proper bolts.
Also another thing that scares me is that the FAKE Laings had larger bases... :wasntme:

and to my last knowledge, it wasnt the black impeller DDC-1 which were the best, it was the RED Impeller 18W DDC-2:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...s/IMG_0082.jpg

Interesting to know that the ebay ad states,

"...This is the rare special edition Laing DDC1A-VC with built in liquid volume compensator. It is the famous black rotor version with bigger center inlet hole. These pumps were originally pulled from working Mac G5 liquid cooling assemblies. The liquid volume compensator is a deluxe feature of Laing DDC water pump for OEM order only and it is not available for sell in the retail market until now. ..." http://cgi.ebay.com/Laing-DDC-water-...item35af2f581c

The DDC1A-VC 12W for the Apple G5 workstation used a corrosive salt based coolant. Since these were pulls from actual G5 machines, I would not even dare get involved with those pumps. There are reports all over several of the Apple forums about this coolant leaking and ruining hardware. :down:

Now, when the Dell H2C 720 gaming rig came out, Dell did not want the to replay warranty issues Apple had with those VC pumps. Instead, they went with a distilled water and propylene glycol mixture with a custom corrosion inhibitor package. :up:

salt based coolant? why for? what advantages it might bring? :confused: (except of course corrosive disadvantages)

Probably 0.01C and 'low costs'.

So these should not be bought?

Also what do all the extra things do...like the liquid compensator and stuff.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jumper2high

I've been using a heat gun (used to strip paint) to reflow-solder dozens of LEDs onto various types of PCBs. Works like a charm. If you happen to have a thermocouple sensor as well, you can even regulate the temperature by raising the whole thing up and down over time (and thus follow proper reflow preheat, solder and cooldown times and rates). :)

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Hmm... I hadn't thought of that. :up:

yes, I also found that using hot air gun has much better success rate than drag soldering for this kind 0.33mm leg spacing IC. but it should be done very carefully, 360 degree maximum 10 second. After the solder melt and the IC self align , hold the temperture for 10s and stop the heat gun immediately. For me, drag soldering is good for >0.4mm leg spacing.

Another item on sale from diyinhk

http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/1...pmodmcp350.jpg

Quote:

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Each pump is modded and tested one by one. The PCB has going over three version and It's 100% bug free. We only use top quality component, Dale resister, Japanese capacitor, 2oz copper PCB, Gold plated heatsink, Kester lead free solder etc.. As the price told, profit is not the target, more user of our product and your good comment is the mostly wanted.

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Laing DDC water pump 12W swiftech MCP350 with heatsink

I would have to question the actual effectiveness of that heat sink with it being buried inside the plastic housing.

+1 on doubts.
I remember simple mod with cutting holes in pump plastic casing, was very effective in bringing temps down even with original PCB.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

I would have to question the actual effectiveness of that heat sink with it being buried inside the plastic housing.

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This is another PCB mod, sanyo motor driver:welcome:
Test shows that without the heatsink, the pump can only run with stock top. i.e. maximum ~0.9A.
with the heatsink, it can run with aftermarket top and up to 1.5A before trigger the overheat protection. The pump stop when overheat detect, and auto restart when temperature is reduced. This should be a standard feature seems not available in the Laing original PCB.

this sanyo uses "sine wave" can drive motor more silent than "PWM", but more heat. Test shows that Toshiba PWM can drive up to 2A without extra heatsink. for xtremer, toshiba PWM. for silent love - sanyo sine wave:)

@wizard1238

How do you mount the pump as there is no mounting ears?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wizard1238

This is another PCB mod, sanyo motor driver:welcome:
Test shows that without the heatsink, the pump can only run with stock top. i.e. maximum ~0.9A.
with the heatsink, it can run with aftermarket top and up to 1.5A before trigger the overheat protection. The pump stop when overheat detect, and auto restart when temperature is reduced. This should be a standard feature seems not available in the Laing original PCB.

this sanyo uses "sine wave" can drive motor more silent than "PWM", but more heat. Test shows that Toshiba PWM can drive up to 2A without extra heatsink. for xtremer, toshiba PWM. for silent love - sanyo sine wave:)

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I'm not saying it doesn't work, I'm saying it doesn't work as well as it could.

Heat sinks require a constant supply of moving air in order to be able to efficiently shed the heat they collect, yours isn't getting any fresh air because it's inside the pump housing. If the housing had even a few holes in them, the heat sink would do a much better job. :up:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

I'm not saying it doesn't work, I'm saying it doesn't work as well as it could.

Heat sinks require a constant supply of moving air in order to be able to efficiently shed the heat they collect, yours isn't getting any fresh air because it's inside the pump housing. If the housing had even a few holes in them, the heat sink would do a much better job. :up:

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Yes, It should perform better if open to free air:up: you are right:welcome:
But it has already let the sanyo driver run at it's full potential 1.5A inside the original plastic housing.
Without it, we can only use stock top and test shows that the sanyo driver will overheat at only 0.9A even run nude without the original plastic housing:p:

Maybe this thread might be of interest. Should be simple to make with dremel at hand. This was done by just drilling holes in hausing.
But though not the cheapest, most effective and best looking probably would be this replacement pump hausing by Koolance. It's not only air open, but also from metal, +heatsink, +thermal pads from fets to heatsink, +superb looks. :up:

I'm still confused as to why Koolance decided to go with the color they choose for it. I really think either nickle or black would've looked much better.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by churchy

Maybe this thread might be of interest. Should be simple to make with dremel at hand. This was done by just drilling holes in hausing.
But though not the cheapest, most effective and best looking probably would be this replacement pump hausing by Koolance. It's not only air open, but also from metal, +heatsink, +thermal pads from fets to heatsink, +superb looks. :up:

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the koolance solution is good for long run and it's the only solution for the original laing PCB. It's amazing and superb looks:D heat transfer from IC leg to PCB first to thermal pads to heatsink.

this gold plated heatsink is designed only for this sanyo solution, It make direct contact to the IC top for immediately and quick heat dissipation. I tried 3M silicone thermal pad between the heatsink and sanyo IC top in the very beginning, the pump can run up from 0.9A to 1A only and trigger the overheat protection...direct contact heatsink rise the overheat protection trigger originally at 0.9A to 1.5A. Actually, I am very lucky to find it out, the 12W pump can use aftermarket top and run stable finally before it's go public:) Test result shows that EK/XSPC aftermarket top rise the current from 0.9A to 1.1A, there are still 40% headroom to go for this sanyo with heatsink solution:cool: Actually, 40% headroom may be too much even for aerospace industry:p:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mav2000

Also what do all the extra things do...like the liquid compensator and stuff.

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All it is 4 metal springs. Although I haven't used the pumps yet but I do not think they are all that useful.

Anyways is anyone willing to do the soldering required to these PCBs if I were to send the gear to him?

I had a DDC pulled from a mac with one of those compensator things. The rubber diaphragm split and it leaked :( I'd sooner get a DDC without that compensator thingy.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sparky

I had a DDC pulled from a mac with one of those compensator things. The rubber diaphragm split and it leaked :( I'd sooner get a DDC without that compensator thingy.

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This is a common issue with the DDC-VC pumps once they are taken out of the 12psi pressure loop and used in a regular WCing loop with a RES. The diaphragm has no pressure to keep it pressed against the backing plate held by the four springs, thus the rubber diaphragm can easily split.

Honestly the diaphragm doesn't look all that cheap to me. Both of mine look to be in great shape. And if by chance it leaks from there I don't see why I couldn't just block small hole to the diaphragm w/ a dab of silicon.

I would like to order one to play with, but how do you mount it?

I know it was already posted somewhere on XS, but just keep all in one place:
http://i.ebayimg.com/08/!CD2JnwQBmk~...7meJQ~~_35.JPG

Quote:

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This is a Laing DDC pump bottom heatsink with vibration damper. It is suitable to all version of DDC pump include MCP350 MCP355, the newest MCP35X, and the taller Apple G5 VC version.

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http://www.diyinhk.com/ebayimg/DDCIMG_9964.jpg

Quote:

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It is a gold plated metal plate with direct contact to the ddc bottom. The metal plate has a silicone feet to ensure better air flow in the bottom. It avoid the danger of overheat problem like the traditional way which fullly cover the bottom with sponge gel for vibration damping. The silicone feet also turely decoupled the ddc pump, not direct load path from the pump to the computer case, it is ture isolation.

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Link
do i hear gold? :confused:

BTW, I am Xtreme Enthusiast now :D

This bottom is made from mcpcb (metal core pcb). It has 2OZ copper layer and 1.6MM aluminum layer(like a double layer heatsink).
This type of professional PCB is used for best thermal transfer of electronic component. It is much expensive than ordinary PCB.
The copper area under the DDC bottom is gold plated, it uses the same treatment of PCB terminal(aka gold finger).

DDC pump repair in 3 minutes guide video:)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_Rpty4lWgg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wizard1238

DDC pump repair in 3 minutes guide video:)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_Rpty4lWgg

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Is there another part to that? :shrug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wizard1238

DDC pump repair in 3 minutes guide video:)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_Rpty4lWgg

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But you didn't finish soldering the wires to the PCB...:D

Pretty neat seeing the heat gun soldering iron in action.:up:

Mine is sat in customs still :(, so has anyone gotten anything yet? I am going to run a dual pump setup and tempted to run these togther

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wizard1238

DDC pump repair in 3 minutes guide video:)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_Rpty4lWgg

---

we need part two.
great work.:up:

I just been chatting to the man on eBay

Quote:

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Thank you for interesting in our product, The Sanyo pcb assembled version for the 10W black rotor DDC is on sale in the ebay store now. The Toshiba assembled pcb for the 18W purple rotor DDC will be on sale soon. What is your ddc rotor color to repair? Thanks

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Seams like they are apealing to our need. Most of us can solder. Im sure we don't need the reflow air gun to remove the coil wires, an soldering iron will do fine

This is everything that comes in the envelope. So uh where does everything go? http://smiliesftw.com/x/tounged.gif
http://hostthenpost.org/uploads/5728...af61c70e79.jpg

If the completed PCB's are going to be on sale soon I might as well not attempt to (and likely destroy) to do the soldering myself. Hopefully he will have versions available capable of more than 12V.

No more sanyo pcb + ddc anymore? I was going to buy one. =(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Boogerlad

No more sanyo pcb + ddc anymore? I was going to buy one. =(

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Why? It says "more than 10 available" on Ebay

a review from russia:):clap:

http://people.overclockers.ru/AlexT/record3

http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/7761/204876.png

Quote:

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Originally Posted by @lex

Why? It says "more than 10 available" on Ebay

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not with the modified sanyo pcb preinstalled =(

does http://cgi.ebay.com/Laing-DDC-water-...4#ht_914wt_932 work on ddc 3.1 blue impeller too?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Boogerlad

not with the modified sanyo pcb preinstalled =(

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How about this?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Boogerlad

does http://cgi.ebay.com/Laing-DDC-water-...4#ht_914wt_932 work on ddc 3.1 blue impeller too?

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Why not... :yepp:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Boogerlad

does http://cgi.ebay.com/Laing-DDC-water-...4#ht_914wt_932 work on ddc 3.1 blue impeller too?

---

DDC3.x copper coil wire has larger diameter and the location is different than DDC2 and DDC1.
Only the Toshiba TB6588FG can use, and also need to extend the copper coil wire to the location which is designed for DDC2/1.
The DDC3 10W and 18W has the same copper coil wire diameter. The speed is depend on the copper coil wire diameter, so they will run at the same speed. And it's near 30W:eek:, the maximum current rating of Toshiba TB6588FG:cool:

So is there still plans to release a pre soldered board using the Toshiba chip?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SpuTnicK

How about this?

Why not... :yepp:

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I'd gladdly pay extra money if the pcb was already soldered onto the ddc pump. I just don't have the time to solder it myself.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Boogerlad

I'd gladdly pay extra money if the pcb was already soldered onto the ddc pump. I just don't have the time to solder it myself.

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I hear that. Not just the time but the tools or know-how. Reflowing isn't exactly an easy solder job.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lowfat

So is there still plans to release a pre soldered board using the Toshiba chip?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Boogerlad

I'd gladdly pay extra money if the pcb was already soldered onto the ddc pump. I just don't have the time to solder it myself.

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LINK :up:

Only $5 more! Ordered....

wizard1238
I suspect you are the man behind those DDC repair kits or very close to its production.;)

We need some clarification on whether this kit is suitable for DDC3.x pump repair. The coil wire length problem can be easily solved. But is there something else that should be taken into consideration?
There are some reports that this "blue" kit does not work with DDC3.x pumps - controller get burned or even if it works, the overheat safety feature restarts the pumps every 3 sec. Not sure what revision it was, the first one or the second one (with pre-soldered elements).

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Originally Posted by wizard1238

According to the datasheet, the Toshiba controller IC is 50V maximum. For higher than 12V operation, the power stabilization capactior 22uf and 0.1uf voltage rating need to increase. For higher than 30V operation, the Schottky Diode voltage rating need to increase as well.

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Can you tell me there this needs to be soldered on to the PCB?

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Originally Posted by SpuTnicK

wizard1238
I suspect you are the man behind those DDC repair kits or very close to its production.;)

We need some clarification on whether this kit is suitable for DDC3.x pump repair. The coil wire length problem can be easily solved. But is there something else that should be taken into consideration?
There are some reports that this "blue" kit does not work with DDC3.x pumps - controller get burned or even if it works, the overheat safety feature restarts the pumps every 3 sec. Not sure what revision it was, the first one or the second one (with pre-soldered elements).

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this board is designed for the black and purple rotor DDC1/DDC2, use in the blue rotor DDC3 is left for diyer to play:p: The extended wire may have chance to short circuit the board, it should be very careful. When using with blue rotor DDC3.x and stock top at full speed, the current is about 2.1A, it's still within the safety limit of this chip(1.5A typ. 2.5A max) Use with aftermarket top is 2.35A, I would recommend connect a resistor between VSP and Vref to reduce the current.
1. if the pump restarts every 3 sec, most likely the TB6588FG need to be resolder:yepp: it cannot read the feedback signal from the coil. it's very common.
2. the toshiba burn immediately if the leg short circuit/bridging due to soldering problem. remember to wear safety glass, the chip can explode when connecting power. Page 8 of this document have the information, it is available in english but only can found in toshiba japan web.
http://www.semicon.toshiba.co.jp/doc..._en_090317.pdf

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Originally Posted by lowfat

Can you tell me there this needs to be soldered on to the PCB?

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There are many things to consider when mod the board, the official datasheet and circuit is available at the toshiba semiconductor web site for xtreme modder to enjoy.

Interesting. From the pictures I thought you would have to solder the surface mount ic as well which seemed insane.

i have a burnt pump that ide like to repair but the soldered tips look as if they are on the inner side (towards the center) of the pcb. Will this kit work with this version pump? Could i use this (Laing DDC pump 18W repair kit SMT soldered MCP355) also?

edit: just checked model

Type: DDC-1plus T
DC 12V 18W TF 60

Found this video on disassembling of DDC pumps with that compensator expansion chamber that are apparently the same ones sold by diyinhk:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqaiiC27PB8

instaled 10w board with blue impeller
but not with stock top
on 12v pump starts and then some of phases shuts down(i think the toshiba ic just overheating)
on 5v pump works and bottom of the pump is quet hot.

cka3o4nuk
any photo or video or both would be great!

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Originally Posted by wizard1238

this board is designed for the black and purple rotor DDC1/DDC2, ...

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I know where an ample supply of DDC-1, DDC-1T pumps are available with the black impeller. :cool: The pumps are surplus "new", never used, never rejects with the 50,000K run life fully intact.

This would help anyone wanting to convert a pump from a 10W to the 30W powerhouse.

can anyone report back on here if they have had any success with these pcb's as a replacement? i have 2 of these pumps that ide like to DIY repair and would really like some feedback. - not into modding for better performance really, just want these running again. thanks in advance.

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Originally Posted by glide 1

can anyone report back on here if they have had any success with these pcb's as a replacement? i have 2 of these pumps that ide like to DIY repair and would really like some feedback. - not into modding for better performance really, just want these running again. thanks in advance.

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of course it work, only depend on the diyer's skill
there are 5 version before the blue one, many $$ in developing, is it too serious for this small diy product...
actually, it work from the 1st version, but more idea come out one by one to improve...so...
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/9...g0129resiz.jpg

Hi all,
I don't understand if there's a PCB repair/mod kit (soldered) for my Laing DDC-1T 3.1 modded to 3.2 with blue impeller/rotor?

Those're my laing pics:

http://www.pctunerup.com/up/results/..._0246copia.jpg


http://www.pctunerup.com/up/results/...17115705_3.jpg



Thanks for answer