Wow! Anyone recognize this from about 2 years ago from Bei Fei?
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...roduct_id=1058
Talk about stealing someone's idea. :mad:
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Wow! Anyone recognize this from about 2 years ago from Bei Fei?
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...roduct_id=1058
Talk about stealing someone's idea. :mad:
poke through the pics, they went a whole step further. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
Regardless, how about we give credit where credit is due. No one thought of doing this until Bei Fei and Naekuh came up with this almost two years ago.
Old news, this was posted some time ago :) Whether or not it is a partial knockoff, it's still pretty cool. I will probably be picking up a couple for my main rig since it uses two pumps in serial.
And MS stole the GUI from Apple who stole it from Xerox...I hear you but this is hardly anything new and not just to the tech industry. And patents can only make so much difference even if feasible to obtain.
yea someone has already posted this
Well I am not familiar to the Bei Fei heatsink, I must say I do like the mounting. It looks great w/o the plastic mounts.
True, but I think I may have been mounting fans on the bottom of my DDC's before they came out with their sink.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
Oh yeah, I already have one of these on it's way from P-PCs. :D
WL - Would it suffice to prevent overheating if I cut out some stripes with dremel and have fans underneath?Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Loads of that is discussed hereQuote:
Originally Posted by luke997
Yeah, that's where I took the idea from, just wanted to check with WL as he seems know these pumps very well and had couple without issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexandr0s
There are many pumps that have optional, or integral heatsinks.
Pretty old idea. I bet about as old as pumps themselves.
I don't do it to prevent over heating as I really don't think that's the problem when they go bad. I think it's just a bad PCB or component on the PCB.Quote:
Originally Posted by luke997
Some of the pics I've seen however, lead me to believe that some ppl forget the O-Ring when reassembling (it's not hard to do, I've almost done it myself a couple times recently) and when water does finally get to the bottom and blows the pump, they realize the mistake they made and are for some reason too embarrassed to admit it and blame the pump.
nice can you show us some pics when you get it
Thanks. Mental note added:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
KptKrunch has intellectual property rights to all water-cooling so give due credit folks
It's pretty logical to want to decrease the heat dump of your pump. A cooler pump = cooler loop, and increase pump life.
edit: lol @Richard's comment
Yea ive got a fan under my pumps because i don't think the koolance's will fit in the XSPC dual ddc resQuote:
Originally Posted by Vinas
BAH!!! I forgot to add that the reason I use the fan (and now the Koolance heatsink) is to try and remove the heat using alternative methods in an effort to reduce heat dump into the loop from the pump. It's not a lot of heat dumped into the loop but every little bit helps in my book. ;)
That looks like a really nice sink. It is nice that the sink replaces the plastic housing so it actually sinks with the PCB board. I may have to look at getting a couple for my MCP355s. I would assume they would fit.
Curios. How much will a plastic pump housing transfer heat through the plastic to the metal HS? I know the middle bottom of the pump bottom gets hot by experiance, but how warm does the plastic get? I felt it really didn't have a lot of heat. Seems the heat stays in the board and the coils more due to the plastic housing.
I'm asking because I don't see it making a lot of difference. So, any imperical info from you old time gurus?
Edit: So it's a circuit baord HS eh? Bottom of the pump is removed? Hmmm, neat idea.
Yu (pic of HS removed):Quote:
Originally Posted by Conumdrum
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...-pmp400_p2.jpg
lulz.. i got my units. Hey its for DDC's you had to expect me getting a few.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexandr0s
Anyhow u use a TIm pad on that green pcb and then you put the anodized alu sink over.
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...-pmp400_p3.jpg
I wish my camera was working, so i could show you guys.
You penny pinching whore... :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
lulz... coming from koolance i dont mind.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
They did sponsor me and martin and skinnee a TON.
I hate DDCS. Give me a D5 any-day.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...al/shinbou.pngQuote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
:rofl:
But i couldnt use this on DB.
He is probably the only person on this forum minus vendors who has more ddc's in his closet then i do.
I hate DDCs from experience as I have had TONS of them die on me but never had a D5 die. I have a graveyard of them and a :banana::banana::banana::banana:load of tops (XSPC dual pump tops included).Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
U hater :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mmBw3uzPnJ...na_Hate_05.jpg
This actually looks pretty good, i remember seeing a similar mod here on XS few years back, only gripe is this would be the only Koolance part in my rig and I'm not really a fan of Koolance.
Would you believe me if i told you I've had mine since 2007 purchased from FrozenCPU and still runs perfectly fine with hardly any noise.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
Edit: can't stop visualizing how this would look in my rig with modded top, EK you reading this lolz.
no, I would say you are a lying sack of bantha dungQuote:
Originally Posted by Taskforce
:rofl: Well you never know. He might have a got a real good one.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
Well, we've known that heat sinks helped the DDC's since we started using them in 2006. Some of our early high ambient bench units got the RAM heat sink treatment.
I'm also aware other members like Bei and Naekuh did very nice, specialized DDC heat sinks before us, so respect, mon.
With more temperature complaints from customers lately on the DDC, we decided to offer something ourselves. It does involve removing the stock plastic base entirely, and it is a little technical to assemble (nothing you guys can't handle, but maybe a little complex for others). Best of all, it does help with temps.
No argument from me that D-5 does run cooler and tends to have a higher reliability rate. But you can't fit a D-5 in a single 5.25" bay, either.
Tim
Don't say can't Tim. With a can of Crisco and a roll of duct tape there is just about nothing I cannot accomplish.Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
Oh, you will be... you WILL be...Quote:
Originally Posted by Taskforce
:D
Tim
Quick question for Koolance, I use the PMP400 with the top and res and the bracket screws into the two extra holes on the bottom of the pump, how do you attach the bracket to the heat sink?
I knew it...your ......ummmm Boba Fett!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
that is a Yoda impression. U R FiredQuote:
Originally Posted by Sadasius
sniff sniff....*reaches into drawer and pulls out his trusty stainless Kimber Raptor II and places his lips over the end of the barrel*....."Hmmmm let's see if I can suck all the bullets out!" :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
But seriously though that Koolance setup is sexy and I would go that route if I had a DDC I wanted to use.
It doesn't fit the bracket that comes with the COV-RP400 pump cover directly. We're going to have to note that and make something that will work. The mounting holes on the bracket correspond with the two hole positions on the PMP-400, but those are different than the new standoffs we provide on the HTS-PMP400 heat sink.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
For now, you could match one of those standoff holes with the bracket to mount it. The bracket goes underneath the heat sink, so it will still support the weight (upside-down picture below). Or, you could drill new screw holes through the existing bracket which align with a couple of the heat sink standoffs. There's also threaded holes on opposite sides of the HTS-PMP400 metal base that could be useful.
Tim
Just so it's on record, I created Microsoft, but Bill Gates locked me in his basement and no one believes me!
Thanks. I am going to assume then that the heat sink and it's bracket do not interfere with the top/res attachment?Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
ive had mine since 08 and its still going strong and its always had an ek v1 g3/8" top and a fan on itQuote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
but now that i said something it will die and i will have to get some jegway or whatever the cpx pro or ocz or ek is and as the d5 is a waste of space
why is it $35 that seams a little much
Same. If I didnt have a D5 and wanted a DDC, I'd get this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sadasius
Plus other Koolance products have caught my eye lately too. I really love the nickel and looks generally on their blocks and so on :cool:.
Why, all we'd see is flash rebound. :p::rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
NaeKuhsaywhaaaat? I have one on the way. . .well, it has to actually get to P-PC's first,:rofl: "should" show up sometime on Friday from the email I got from them. Seems they weren't expecting anyone to order them the night they went up on the site so I actually wound up pre-ordering it. :brick:Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
According to the HTS-PMP400 product page on the Koolance website it doesn't. Although I thought the mounting bracket was going to work. Would have been nice to know before I bought the heatsink, the top, and the PMP-400 earlier today. :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
For all the D5 deniers: my D4 (four) pump, from around 2005, continues to provide the pumping goodness to my backup computer.
No conflict with a reservoir and top attachment. We include shorter and longer mounting screws to mount the pump up into whatever.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
Here's something important. There are two cutout areas below the HTS-PMP400 metal body designed to avoid the DDC's power wire solder points. Our initial web pictures had this oriented the wrong way, which might short a pump if its solder points are especially thick. This is the corrected picture now on our website:
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...-pmp400_p2.jpg
If you receive one of the first HTS-PMP400 units, the assembly diagram shows "insulation tape" to place over those solder points. But the bracket cutouts were added before release, so the tape was no longer needed. (This isn't to be confused with the small piece of heat shrink we currently include for the pump wire, which is completely optional.)
If I had more room in my sig this would be there!:rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
Wow, I hate the fact that his computer is stock :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexandr0s
Tim: how much wider is the Koolance cooler than the original pump dimensions?
Koolance,
Will your PMP-400 heatsink simply bolt on to a Swiftech MCR355?
Thanks,
stupid question, will it work with any pump top? specifically thinking about the screw threads.
meh... i had that same mentality until i met dean and tim.Quote:
Originally Posted by Taskforce
Now nadeshiko only non koolance parts are 1 res, rads, and my pump tops, along with GPU blocks.
LOL...
in ver.3, i think koolance will take over my rig and plant a KL flag on the cpu.
Well its already cooled by a KL-360 with a single slit injector from eric's tests.
<-- first causality of this statement. :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
Heat sink itself is the same footprint as the pump (62mm). New metal bracket is wider at 71mm x 65mm.Quote:
Originally Posted by TRICHEESE
Any Laing/ITT DDC's.Quote:
Originally Posted by OC Maximus
As long as they share the same thread as the stock pump top. We supply M4 screws with the heat sink, and these fit the stock pump top and our nozzle base like COV-RP400.Quote:
Originally Posted by facboy
Tim
I used a DDC-1, the old black impeller version, for 2 1/2 years without so much as a hiccup.
I remember a thread on here not too long ago where people were looking for an original heatsink. Now that Koolance has one, then people complain. Go figure...:confused:
Warning: Epic Post ahead!
I'm guessing this was aimed at me, sooo, since mine finally showed up on Monday and I've finally got all the pics taken and post processing done, I'll go through unboxing and assembly for you guys.Quote:
Originally Posted by TRICHEESE
As soon as it showed up, I fired up my camera and rushed the box to "The Photo Studio". :rofl: Behind the box is a 3.1 that this may actually wind up going into a build on, haven't really decided yet.
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/630...spmp400100.jpg
Opening the box we are greeted by this sight.
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/314...spmp400101.jpg
Mmm, bag of goodies (I'll go though the contents a little later).
http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/7...spmp400102.jpg
Side 1 of the main part of this kit (also explained later)
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/8...spmp400103.jpg
Side 2 of the main part of this kit (again, explained later)
http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/2...spmp400104.jpg
Instruction sheet (could really be a little better explaining some things)
http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/9...spmp400106.jpg
Template for thermal pad
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/6...spmp400107.jpg
Well, how about that. . .it's later. :p: This is the entire contents of the bag of goodies and the main body/heat sink bag. I'm not certain on items #4 & #9 but I'm almost positive they may have something to do with mounting the unit when utilizing the tabs on the sides.
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/3...spmp400111.jpg
The only real concern I had when assembling this was one of the screws that hold the body pieces together came uncomfortably close to this coil. . .so, I ground it down with the Dremel. A little electricians tape (black) placed over the screw should work just as well. You may have noticed the glove, it's the best way to prevent getting finger prints on the plating.
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/1...spmp400112.jpg
Spacers in place, I just sort of dropped them in place after sliding the body over the pump motor. Lift the motor up only as far as you need to to slide the spacers in.
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/7...spmp400113.jpg
Bottom installed and bolted down. Note the notch Tim pointed out earlier in the topic is lined up with the wire connections.
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/8412/...spmp400114.jpg
Template cut
http://img693.imageshack.us/img693/5...spmp400115.jpg
Thermal pad, it's kind of thick and heavy and it's got a sticky side. Get your minds of of the gutter.
http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/3...spmp400116.jpg
Ready for cutting. I recommend holding the template in place with some thin 2 sided scotch tape, it'll make things a little easier.
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/8...spmp400117.jpg
All cut and ready to "remove the film".
http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/6...spmp400118.jpg
Film removed and place on the PCB with the pink side down. My reasoning behind this was the instructions actually show the pad going onto the heatsink itself and lead me to believe that they meant to stick it on the heat sink and the best way to line it up right was to do what I did.
http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/9...spmp400119.jpg
Heat sink installed and tightened down.
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/969...spmp400125.jpg
...and from the sides
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/9...spmp400120.jpg http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/6...spmp400121.jpg http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/7...spmp400122.jpg http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/4...spmp400123.jpg
...and finally, with a fan attached.
http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/3...spmp400126.jpg
Hope this helps somebody down the line.
Bit extreme for a pump /top lol... grats to koolance for using this design but i honestly dont like the heatsink and the top, looks kinda ugly.. hehe
So wait, this is a pump or a waterblock with a pump? I'm honestly confused now.
Nice pic's WL i might have to get me 3 of these now :up:
It's a heat sink kit for the DDC line of pumps. The top does not come with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Deluded
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Really appreciate that excellent walk through. Pictures are always worth a million.
Thank you.
Thanks for the pics Waterlogged.
Somehow I expect to see waterblocks for those kits in a while (possibly DIY'ed) :rofl: :eek:.
Watercooling LC pump? :rofl:
Good one. :D
Whaaaat :rolleyes:? It would only dump at max like 18W into the loop, which might give you a 0.1-0.2c increase, depending on the RPM and rad used.Quote:
Originally Posted by churchy
E:f;b
Great pics, Waterlogged. This is our first production batch and things are still a little rough. We are pre-cutting the thermal pad in the future.
We have a design for that, too. But there aren't any current plans to produce it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexandr0s
Tim
For Waterlogged's post, the unknown #4 rubber washers and #9 screws are for mounting the new heat sink base. There are four threaded holes on the sides of the metal base. I think 2 screws and vibration washers are included (instead of 4) because we assume only one side will be in contact with the chassis or mounting surface. There is also the option to mount using the bottom heat sink stand offs.
Tim
I think it is time to retire my EK dual DDC top and move to two of these + two tops directly connected :)
By the looks of it, these kits should fit with EK's dual DDC top. Koolance, can you perhaps confirm whether the kits work with dual tops?Quote:
Originally Posted by dejanh
They would, but I am not sure that I would want to use it that way...I'm just looking for an excuse to get away from the dual top lol! Oh and, like another individual here I feel weird having only one part in the rig be Koolance.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexandr0s
:p:
Mine should be arriving in a few hours http://smiliesftw.com/x/dancingcool.gif
Thanks all. This was kind of a nightmare trying to wrangle all the pics I took and the limited time I had to work on it.
Thanks for confirming my suspicions Tim. Might want to have someone add that to the instruction sheet somewhere.:up: That little package you sent me is next on my "To Do" list. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
i really dont think u will need the fan.
those guys work better then the ones i made with bei.
I really wish my camera didnt break.
I accidentally dropped it while taking pictures of Lind and i cracked the lense. :(
Installation was rather annoying but damn what a sexy beast :cool:
http://hostthenpost.org/uploads/2e04...c0ca9f6699.jpg
http://hostthenpost.org/uploads/7306...6898225945.jpg
Yup. Koolance is good at making sexy products. Look of cross shaped CPU-360 is still my favourite. Pitty gtx480 block had gone too far down bling path.
Thanks Waterlogged and lowfat.
Tim , are there any plans to combine with COV-RP400 ?
For those that didn't like the acrylic Koolance top.:D
http://a.imageshack.us/img217/3846/k...p400127jpg.jpg
For full bling set only thing that's left - to sleeve pump's wires :)
Wish I had the space in my mini-tower for a heatsink, pump, pump top and reservoir. I really like that setup Waterlogged.
Your wish is my command. :rofl: :ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexandr0s
You sure about that? BTW, I found a use for that GPU-220 that didn't fit my GFX card.;):ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by Koolance
http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/7...p400128jpg.jpg
looking sweet their waterlogged :), I remember the days when everyone was fully against koolance, Koolance is taking over now hehe well starting too! :D
We don't have plans to sell them as one product. COV-RP400 "works" with this heat sink, but the 120mm mounting bracket included with COV-RP400 currently doesn't align with HTS-PMP400 (which is being corrected in the future).Quote:
Originally Posted by mjtir
Ha! Microfin block for the pump... I think the only thing left now is a DDC LN2 pot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Tim
And people laughed at me for watercooling my SAS controller.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
:rofl:
At least mine killed all the noise.
Yeah, I got told I was basically an idiot for WC'ing my PERC5i card on overclock.net. I figured I had the block and it was quieter, so why not.Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
Great thread, great product, I guess the question is will this work with my existing top. I have an ek top v2.... have to check out the threading.
Hmm, cannot it be simply dremeled off? I'd prefer rev2 though, that works with dual tops aswell :/
Rioja: I'm not sure about general compatibility with dual tops, but you don't need the heat sink bracket to face side-to-side like that. It can be rotated front-to-back (relative to the nozzles/top). You just have to make sure the wire coming out of the pump during installation is oriented correctly for the bottom bracket. (This is illustrated on an earlier page, it relates to the pump wire solder points.)
Tim
When I look at the install diagram and the pictures it seems like they are different, the mounting sides vs. the small bracket with out screw holes.
Can someone provide dimensions of the Koolance heat sink and mounting bracket and orientation?
I bet some modding is involved, but thats what we do, Dremel, grinder, duct tape... ;)
Well, the main body can be rotated 90° from that position in relation to the top, so those tabs are in the "front" and "back". The minimum center to center distance between the holes in the dual top would need to be about 13.8mm from the rough measurements I was able to take of the PMP-AC400 I have for them to work with a dual top.Quote:
Originally Posted by rioja
Anyone out there that a has a dual top or two that could take some accurate measurements?
I don't suppose anyone has tried to use these w/ a dual top yet? If not can anyone using a ddc dual top can anyone take a pic showing how close the two pumps sit together?
Also Koolance, are screw holes on the bottom of the heatsink meant to fit any fan size or no?
I'd like to know ifs it's works on swiftechs new mcp-35x ....?
Sent from my X10a using Tapatalk
Just tested on mine. . .:yepp: :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by MagisD
Crap..... now i gota buy 2. ....lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Sent from my X10a using Tapatalk
:rofl: ^
I can't wait to see the bill for "Overkill" :D
Hi,
Some have been wondering whether 2 of these heatsinks - 2 Koolance HTS-PMP400 - fit to the EK Dual DDC V2 Top - the answer is - yes, with a little help of a dremel.
Here's a way to do it:
1) One of the "sidepods" on each of the metal frame has to be removed:
https://rapidshare.com/files/2269591...depods_800.jpg
https://rapidshare.com/files/6720531...idepod_800.jpg
2) Here's the frame after cutting of not needed bit:
https://rapidshare.com/files/1866739...00_Cut_800.jpg
Cut piece vs uncut:
https://rapidshare.com/files/3664312..._Uncut_800.jpg
3) Here's the clearance after cutting and mounting:
https://rapidshare.com/files/2381908...ounted_800.jpg
4) Here's the heatsinks on:
https://rapidshare.com/files/2440172...tsinks_800.jpg
5) Finished product - looks quite nice - and definitely much better than my old plastic housing cut with a dremel :)
https://rapidshare.com/files/3130555...al_Top_800.jpg
I'll post it to both threads where the questions were - so it will be easier to find the answer.
Ah, nice effort, Luke, I like.
I have ordered 2 off these to go with my RP-401X2 reservoir and 2x 3.25 Laings for my Project. As you have done, I will need to mod the brackets to fit to this reservoir. But, the end-result will look pretty decent.
I note you have 2 different brackets - old and new revisions?
ps: Apologies for reviving this one :rofl:
WOW! Good catch on that Beany ol boy. :yepp:
Luke, in step 3, the housing on the left has the wrong orientation. It should be 90° so that the solder joints for the wires are in one of the open areas.
Hehe - no worries, Waterlogged - saw he had two different revision-brackets, so I guess he will have to dremel a notch to accommodate the cables, as he can't rorate the bracket really.....pity about the revision-differences....
Just glad you pointed me in the direction of the Heatsinks a few days ago.....so now at least the Wife can blame someone else for once :rofl:
I got 3 heatsinks from 2 shops, 1 was older revision - the bracket is a bit different and you have to cut the thermal pad yourself - new revision have it ready cut.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBean
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
I thought about it while doing it, however:Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBean
1) Top and bottom parts (orientation as on the photo) are securing the frame around the pump and as it's surely for a reason. If I moved it by 90 I would have to cut it so they would "squeeze" the lower frame in place anymore.
2) There is enough clearance between the solder/wires and the housing to eliminate any risk of shorting - so I had no need to dremel it for that.
BTW - obviously the left one is the old revision but in case if anyone wonders...