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I got this fitting awhile back, which was used to cool CPU waterblock.
However I found out yesterday the fitting was broken and caused leak damaging several components in my PC.
Asus Crosshair III: Gone
2 x ATI 5850: Gone
I submitted a support ticket to Jab-tech where I originally bought the fitting to see what actions can be taken.
My recommendation to you all, don't use this fitting.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...100622_002.jpg
What a nightmare. Sorry to hear that. The fact that these fittings are plastic scared me away from them. Clean and dry out your equipment and see if you can RMA. ...?Quote:
Originally Posted by Garu
Sorry to hear about that.
I'm with deepcover though - plastic fittings just doesn't seem right.
god, i bought a ton of these several months back and finally have the cash to finish the build...dunno if i wanna use them now
My recommendation to you, don't use them and get proper metal fittings.Quote:
Originally Posted by geoffsthaboss
I bought 12 of these because they were cheap, but look what I have to go through now for cheaping out.
I doubt your hardware is dead. Let it dry off for a few days in some sunlight or soaked in isopropyl then try again. Rarely are motherboards/video cards permanently disabled from water exposure.
Thanks for that recommendation. I will try that out.
Where do I get isopropyl?
Every pharmacy should carry 96% pure alcohol/Isopropanol. I always buy it in 1L steel cans.
Sorry to hear!
I used some when they first came out. 2 snapped within days, luckily they were in the bottom of my tj07 and away from any components!
Bad bad idea they are!!!!
No way would I ever consider buying hardened plastic barbs. I don't think I'd trust thousands of dollars of hardware to a barb that I can crack w/ my own fingers.
Mine did the same thing, plus primochill said I must have used them wrong, never touching that company again
So i called it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Garu
The funny thing is ALL the VETS on the forum called it.
But we all got flamed for it...
I think its gonna be a long time b4 we see boxgods back in the business after his T3 nightmare and this.
@ the very least primochill majorly scar'd there name on H2O minus tubing.
Nope.. now im gonna have to unleash a can of whoopass.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bodkin
WE TOLD BOXGODS THIS WOULD FAIL.
ALL THE VETS ON THE FORUM SAID NO.
BOXGODS IGNORED US AND THE RESULT IS A NO BRAINER.
Plastic is just not recomended when you have something that is gona push a lot of Torque.
If primochill says its your fault, do some searching on this forum on ghost fittings.
Then link them ALL the statements I and others have told Boxgods.
It was predetermined that this would fail.
Another Worry was the plastic being too sharp and RIPPING though your tubing on the ghost compression.
Were waiting for that scenario to arrive as well.
Just say away from primochill minus tubing... As i said, this entire "experience" majorly scar'd them in our industry.
You cant even say T3 anymore without someone yelling 4 letter F words on how they got screwed.
what is there to RMA? the ghost fitting? The other hardware damage is NOT the vendors fault.Quote:
Originally Posted by deepcover
Do you think thats fair for the vendor to replace something another vendor did?
And Primochill wont fix it. They will try to push blame on you, and say you accepted responsibility of damaging your hardware. The only thing they will do is replace the ghost fitting.... (which is asking for trouble again...)
Gah... Junk all your ghost fittings and get real metal fittings... but if you do that and have a craptastic T3 product, you might risk cracking it.
Its a no win situation as long as you have primochill minus tubing.
Perfect material for a Small Claims Court suit. If they deny refund bingo easy lawsuit right there...Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
wonderful, i also have one of the original t3's i had planned on using too...
guess that was some $100 down the drain, to bad, the t3 had/has such potential minus leaking and destroying everything...
i mean we learned enough plastic madness when bitspower tried to pull plastic on us with the crystal T.Quote:
Originally Posted by geoffsthaboss
OMG dont even get me started on how many of us got screwed on that.
*sigh* this is why we say the dark side is bling... the price you pay for Bling.. :\
The whole Bling vs Performance era and the war which arrived from it... .. and ... oops ... im rambling history too much.
the one saving grace is i held off getting the faceplate for the t3, that'd been another wasted $30
Oww, how many times have I heard that story in the T3 fail thread :rolleyes:?Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
figured it was common sense to not purchase these.. apparently im wrong..Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat
so sad that vendors sell parts that doom rigs.. I.e. plastic barbs, alu parts, etc..
Yup and that is when he did the hanging test, the swinging test etc if you remember. I could not trust plastic like that for anything. When you have so many parts relying on something so small it is best to get the best parts and don't cheap out.Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
There are plenty of threads and posts regarding vets on these forums saying NOT to use these. There are numerous threads/posts of non-vets who've shared their bad experiences with these. It may be harsh to say, but you should have used a little more of common sense of trusting plastic against hundreds of dollars in components and know the risks involved. A little bit of research prior to buying them would have had you find that many vets simply, strongly suggested against them.
As for a lawsuit against the company.. any who attempt it would only be urged a 'good luck.' Although the parts have a high failure rate, there is no way to determine whether the fault was of the user and not the company. We've already noticed how even just a little bit of overtightening can cause the unit to break down. If someone puts 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs, adds no additional support (ie clamps), and the tubing comes off, is it the fault of the producer of the barbs for the barb's lips not keeping the tubing on? It's a :banana::banana::banana::banana:ty thing, but that's life.
Research before buying.
I think a simple boycott would suffice. Primochill has had an extremely bad rep lately, and I'm not sure they are up to fixing their products.
rephyc, cut the guy some slack, he learned his lesson the hard way
This type of threads will actually help the community to look again when they buy the product.
It may be harsh to say, but your useless comments about 'shoulda, coulda, woulda' do not really help.
LOL, i got burned so badly, my t3 is sat next to me too, soo much money...
Wow, that really sucks.....
I'm with the others, there is no way I would ever use plastic fittings, they are too fragile when heated and put under pressure......
Good luck with your RMA, I would just dry out your equipment and then just set up RMA like usual. Can't hurt to try.....
I had a split on a tube a few months back and liquid sprayed all over my GTX 285 and Motherboard but I have been using non-conductive fluids (Fesser 1) and my computer continued to run without problem so I was able to turn it off without destroying anything....
Most people will recommend water as fluid here with anti corrosion and anti fungal as it is regarded as the most efficient and certainly the cheapest solution, but I prefer the security of non conductive liquids (just in case)..... Even if it is just a panacea..... ;-)
Dude,Quote:
Originally Posted by Neutronman
Nothing personal but all water based coolants will turn conductive in a matter of time. I have to state this coz it's a fact. The marketing is 1/2 true, the coolant might be non-conductive but once it touches the dust and metal in your loop it takes ions and it becomes conductive.
Wes
See my last quote, 'Even if it is a panacea', lol.... I am well aware of the conductive issues surrounding the use of these liquids.....Quote:
Originally Posted by wesley
Cheers,
Noted. :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by Neutronman
The unobtainium in Danger Den blocks makes any coolant non-conductive and also lowers the coolant temps to sub-ambient without the need for insulation. Rumor has it coolant that has come in contact with unobtainium can cure cancer but I have not tested that yet.
I thought it was Kryptonite actually....Damn, wrong again....:)Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
I think you meant "placebo".Quote:
Originally Posted by Neutronman
Sooooo +1ing this. :yepp: It can not be stressed enough what proper maintenance can do to limit such problems in case of a leak.Quote:
Originally Posted by wesley
No, I meant 'Panacea', means a 'cure all' but I could have used 'placebo' as well :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Your gear is probably OK. I changed my block the other day and pinched an O-Ring, it leaked all over my Mobo and VC! :shocked:
I thought for sure the VC was dead, but soaking the water up and a few minutes with a blow dryer and everything was fine.
I did catch it quickly though....
You owned a Vic20? Ha, I owned a ZX81 the same year, both fun computers (if we can call the computers these days).....Quote:
Originally Posted by Daveburt714
Well I tried to boot it up this morning, it starts up but the LCD is not even turning on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Daveburt714
Basically booting up is failing I guess.
Any idea what I could do more?
It's marketed as a panacea but it's really not, hence placebo is more appropriate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Neutronman
Haha, made my day! :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
LOL, I beg to differ, in any event let's agree not to worry too much about this here. I'll start a separate post.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
As far as the original poster is concerned, remove one video card and see if your computer will post, if not remove this videocard and insert the other video card and see if pc will post. If it will post with neither card, see if it will post with a different videocard if you have one lying around. If the pc does post then the motherboard is ok and the vid cards are screwed. You can also put the stock heatsinks back on the video cards and test these in a different computer...
Really sorry to hear about your issues, joking aside, motherboard and CF 5850's is a lot of kit to lose.....
Personally If less than a year old, I would replace all the stock fittings and arrange for RMA, worst case scenario they charge you for repairs.....
See if you can test out equipment first though..... It's a pain as you will need to drain system and fit stock HSF's.... No choice at this stage.
Good luck....
Just for reference here is dictionary.com's definition:Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
pan·a·ce·a
/ˌpænəˈsiə/ Show Spelled[pan-uh-see-uh] Show IPA
–noun
1.
a remedy for all disease or ills; cure-all.
2.
an answer or solution for all problems or difficulties: His economic philosophy is a good one, but he tries to use it as a panacea.
So I am correct in my usage of this word..... ;)
I would tear it all down 1st. Remove, clean and re-seat the cpu - the one time water got me condensation had gotten under the cpu block. If you have any different video cards test one out, I would imagine the damage was to the mb before it hurt the cards. Blow around your case w/ compressed air or blow dryer to see if you find any liquid.
Guys, i recently bought Primochill LRT tubing. Is it safe to use it? :D
No! The colored tubing causes one to stare at the beauty of their computer and get retinal cancer of some sorts. Be advised.
Garu, it should be common sense by every water cooler (who does even a little looking into the risks and solutions of a leak) to let things dry out in the sun for a few days prior to trying the hardware again. Testing things before they're fully dry is a quick way to ensuring the death of the component.
Yes. One of the best tubings around.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeus
Wes
I honestly hope Primochill stays in business for the sole reason of the LRT tubing, you can't get anything else like it. It's sad to see that many other things they make are complete and utter crap.
DD/Feser (3/8 ID 5/8 OD) is just like it. I have both here. I think you can only by the thick-walled stuff from Danger Den (meaning I do not think the stuff on the Feser site is the same).Quote:
Originally Posted by H2O
Tell me what I wrong with this tubing . . .
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/309/dsc02403v.jpg
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/9787/dang0.jpg
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/7408/dsc01652zz.jpg
It has the "F" word associated as a brand name with it. :p:;):DQuote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
@ DarthBeavis: Dang it all DB, Ima get me one of them Danger Den cases! They look friggin' awesome. But I was wondering if they would cut one for me to fit 2x 140.3 rads? Also I'm not too keen on 4x 80mm fans in the back, as it seems like it could get loud and whiny. Do you think they could cut holes for 2x 140 mm fans in the back? Do you have any special connections at DD you can share with me? I'm just a n00b, and I need ur help! (lol) But I am serious about getting the case, and I think I need it ASAP. :yepp: Oh, and I am the proud builder of SEVERAL water cooled rigs. :up:
@ Garu: That friggin' suxxorz. My advice is to let everything dry off for a few days. The 99% isopropyl alcohol trick is really only for immediate spills. By now, you might as well just keep waiting for it to dry on its own, and see what happens. You may find one or both of the video cards still work, or even the mobo. But maybe not. If not, you can try to make a claim against your homeowners insurance policy. Check your declaration sheet (if you know what that is) on your policy and see what kind of accidents are covered, or just make a claim and see if you are covered. If you have flood insurance, you may be able to make a claim under that as well, under the rubric of "water damage". The only problem you may encounter is that your deductible may be higher than replacement value. Also check the credit card that was used for the purchase, some have insurance. Otherwise, your remedy is to sue the maker of the broken fitting, which is probably going to be cost prohibitive for you, since lawyers are so damned expensive. :D
you wouldQuote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/7899/tongueo.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by NKrader
:D
Haha, I hope the tubing is good, I have the blue version, works for me....Quote:
Originally Posted by rehpyc
It means its not dry enough, wait a bit longer. Check for water in PCI-E slots, run a tissue through it or use compressed air.Quote:
Originally Posted by Garu
OT/
All these posts are crap, can we focus on the subject matter or start a new thread? Seriously... :mad:
lol the thread is now 2 days old, it's not like there's 100% chance the board is fine, it is probably dead if it didn't boot by now it won't boot in 2011.Quote:
Originally Posted by damha
I narrowed it down to this.
One of 5850 is completely dead it seems. Thankfully the board and the other 5850 are fine.
Because I didn't have any back plates for these VCs, I guess water leaked right on where GPU core sits from the CPU inlet.
Epic, perhaps you can place stock cooler back on VC and RMA it.... Worst case scenario, they can't fix it, best case they can fix it under warrantee......
actually im +1 with DB on his feser tubing comment.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Feser makes nice tubing. Been using it for a while now, so i can speak for experience.
Its not as bend worthy as primochill, but its close, and it doesnt cloud either.
Depending on room temperature and humidity, it may take more time for all the water to evaporate from miniature crevices and corners and it can be as long as 4 or 5 days. Never give up hope ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by mk-ultra
If the spill was large enough to cover sufficient surface area it might have done enough damage. Although if the card was damaged it should display discoloration/burn marks on at least one component. Try inspecting it under strong light, check the core out as well. Or soak it in isopropyl if you want to be 100% sure its kicked the bucket.Quote:
Originally Posted by Garu
Thanks for the info DB. :up: There was some reason I didn't use it, maybe because I couldn't find the thick walled stuff.
I'll keep it in mind though.
I see DB is using those fittings in his build. DB, are you not worried they will break?
Just an FYI to everyone.
Primochill is owned by ModderSmart.com and Moddersmart.com use to be Voyeurmods.com who went out of business for bad business practices and producing bad products.
They have never and will never admit that a product that they produced could ever fail and you will get constipation log before you ever get compensation from them.
They are a company to avoid at all cost, and i know this from personal experience.
Sorry for your bad experiences.
Remember seeing this from when Voyeurmods folded....:rofl:
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...Policypage.jpg
This is what I got from PrimoChill:
Unfortunately, we are not able to compensate for any consequential damages. Please see our term and conditions here: http://www.primochill.com/terms-and-conditions.html. We are able however, to compensate you for broken fittings and/or any of our products directly. Please let us know what you would like to do.
Best Regards,
PrimoChill Customer Support
Like I really want a refund on $4.00 fitting...
if they were going to break they would be broken already. I will change them all out to metal fittings when I have time. There is a T3 in the rig as well and it thus far is OK but it will be removed as well. I had one T3 fail and leak, two thus far that are ok. The one in the Trek build survived even from being shipped to Dallas and back last Summer. Go figure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
This is the reason that for customer or personal builds, if compressions don't fit the budget, i use dd fatboy barbs and hose clamps.
QFT. Although there are several metal compression fittings out there that are almost as cheap as the ghost fittings. I can't garantuee their quality though.Quote:
Originally Posted by bomberboysk