oh no..no POST

appologize if this is wrong section to post,

however i just basically finished my second watercooling project and was to start up my PC to test it however Im not getting a post..

what is happening when i click the ''on'' switch on my PSU the blue LED light up on my EVGA 780i in the top right corner...i then click the power button on my motherboard itself and the RAM cooler fans spin for half a second but the pc wont start up..

at the same time an orange LED comes on near the blue one

i get a flash (like for half a second) of red LED on my GPU

and the motherboard post indicator thing (dunno name) flashes ''FF'' for half a second

so thats where its at..ive reset the RAM sticks and tried with only one stick but still same issue

any help would be appreciated!

EDIT: the PSU seems fine as i was using it to leaktest/ bleed my loop

Lots of things to try, but can you first tell us what was working before you set up your liquid cooling? That is, did you have these same components running on air?

Also - you do have all of your PSU cables plugged in right? (like the PCI-E cables to the GPUs?)

It's the protection mechanism, either something makes contact with the motherboard or the waterblock doesn't touch the CPU, causing it to overheat. I'd suggest a full system remount.
Also, some boards go in protection if there's no CPU fan connected (although that's unlikely for an EVGA board), you could try attaching one first.

Shazza: these are same components (new case however..800D) as before all working no problem (was on water before except for my GPUs) been using it for over a year now and no problems. Also ive replugged cables in and out incase that was prob but still having problems

Jad: i plugged in CPU fan but still same prob, i guess im going to have to remount maybe, before i do though ill try my best to see if anything is making contact on back of motherboard etc

i drained loop and resat my CPU but still getting same prob..

guess ill have to dismantle and try to find root cause :(

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Originally Posted by Welshman666

i drained loop and resat my CPU but still getting same prob..

guess ill have to dismantle and try to find root cause :(

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Did you make sure the extra standoff was removed? It's hiding right by the expansion card slots in the case.

The most common issue in a new or re-build is always failure to plug in the 4/8 pin CPU power. When you forget this it produces just these symptoms. Here's a "new build won't post" checklist a number of folks have honed over the past two years:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/26...video-problems

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Originally Posted by Proximon

The most common issue in a new or re-build is always failure to plug in the 4/8 pin CPU power. When you forget this it produces just these symptoms. Here's a "new build won't post" checklist a number of folks have honed over the past two years:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/26...video-problems

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I see my common issue is also listed. I almost always forget to connect the power cables to the graphics card. :D

take it all apart and rebuild it.

Your shorting something on the board, which isnt allowing it to boot.

have had this problem a lot of times.

Take it all apart and rebuild it.

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Originally Posted by JasonDTM

Did you make sure the extra standoff was removed? It's hiding right by the expansion card slots in the case.

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simple answer...no

i feel silly now if that is root cause (and not broken parts) ill actuly be happy lol

will report back later to see if that was the prob

EDIT: dont think its that...no stand off in place there...

also i went through that checklist and everything seems ok..

it could be somthing stupid like a bit of dust shorting it..i need to get another can of compressed air to clean it tough...

Did you screw down the block too tight on the cpu. I've done this causing a bad cpu seating. The result is no post.

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Originally Posted by meanmoe

Did you screw down the block too tight on the cpu. I've done this causing a bad cpu seating. The result is no post.

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well i did loosen it...still same problem

then i actually drained the loop and took off block then actually took CPU out of socket and put it back in, still having problem however

tommorow i may just dismantle all and try it on air outside of case or somthing

Welshman, what CPU block are you using? It could be the backplate shorting.

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Originally Posted by Alexandr0s

Welshman, what CPU block are you using? It could be the backplate shorting.

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That's a great point. He has an X shaped GTZ backplate, probably.
Looking at the pic of the backside of the board, found here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-024-_-Product
I don't actually know what that is in the top left corner of the socket area, but it looks like it might contact the backplate.

Got the same problem with my R2E board a few days ago.

First I just loosened the MB waterblock screws one by one till I isolate the problem area.

Then I added an additional layer of thermal tape on the contact point on the area to give it that tiny extra space (fraction of a mm - those Bitspower thermal tape sure are thin :P)

Can't avoid a remount though.

One thing that I wanna ask though.
Anyone ever gotten their hardware damaged because of this particular problem?
I know the MB cuts off when it detects the problem and all, but I'd imagine there's that bit of time before that safety switch comes off.

If it flashes FF, don't most EVGA boards come with like a maintenance board than you can plugin, and it will display a code if something is wrong, than you go and look up in the manual what that code means... by memory it means full failure (not really) but seriously the EVGA manual should have a cipher for what the codes mean.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JaD

It's the protection mechanism, either something makes contact with the motherboard or the waterblock doesn't touch the CPU, causing it to overheat.

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No way in hell could a CPU overheat at boot in half a second.

Check to see that the chassis jumper is still on, look in your mobo manual to see where it is located, make sure a CPU fan is connected

Just a head's up here regarding EVGA MB, there were some reports of EVGA boards being picky about the choice of PSU.

So if you've got another PSU, might be a good idea to try that first.

I doubt it's PSU case as it worked fine before. Shorting way more possible.

i have the 790I and the red led means ur CPU is too hot, check ur block for proper sitting

ive been using my GTZ for over a year with no problems so i don't quite think its the back plate

one possibility is it could be a tiny but if metal fallen off a barb or something from tightening it...so i need to get me a can of compressed air to clean it all and try again after!

Best way to deal with this, and probably the quickest is to rebuild the whole thing outside of a case. boot with the bare minimum then add your stuff. otherwise you are just second guessing the whole time.

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Originally Posted by Welshman666

ive been using my GTZ for over a year with no problems so i don't quite think its the back plate

one possibility is it could be a tiny but if metal fallen off a barb or something from tightening it...so i need to get me a can of compressed air to clean it all and try again after!

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not in side ur block , when u sitted on the processor , may be too much or not enough thermal paste.

and yes ur cpu can get HHOOOTT on start up, if the pump dont have enough flow it will give me just a few seconds before it shuts off, and the RED LED turns on

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Originally Posted by azcrazy

not in side ur block , when u sitted on the processor , may be too much or not enough thermal paste.

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I almost never seen 'not enough' TIM paste. I beleave that 'too much' is >100 times more common. :)

Usually when applying TIM to a specialized block (eg. CPU block), I put a very thin even spread.

On the other hand, with blocks that cools multiple components like a full cover MB block, I put a generous amount. There's way too much tolerance for height difference from reference design that cooling multiple things with 1 block is just a bit more risky.

This may be a long shot, but when you cut the power to the motherboard by unplugging the power cord from the PSU, a BIOS reset can be needed to "straighten" out the motherboard. So you can try removing the BIOS battery for half a minute while also unplugging the PSU power cord to reset the BIOS to default settings. Also, I've noticed some strange things in my 800D - if I leave the side panel off while the computer is running and randomly touch some internal part of the case inside, the computer freezes as if I shorted something or there is a poor ground contact somewhere. Try unplugging all the power cables to the motherboard, hard drives, video card, etc and plugging them back in firmly.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Welshman666

ive been using my GTZ for over a year with no problems so i don't quite think its the back plate

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Well, there have been several cases where the GTZ backplate was responsible for shorting the motherboard.

Also, try disassembling everything, and run it as a simple testbench: put the mobo on some sort of stand (its box would be great) and only connect the things you really need. That way you'll eliminate any unnecessary variables.