Micro ATX case for water cooling?

I just bought the Antec Mini P180 Black Steel MicroATX Mini Tower Case and foolishly did not even consider the decresed size factor in regards to liquid cooling!
I am a total newbie to this, ive built many computers in my life but none with liquid cooling. Will the cases size have any dramatic effect on using liquid cooling?
If so what compact pump would fit in it? I was gonna do a custom metal job to mount the radiator on the outside of the case. Which leads me to wonder, if done with excellent craftsmanship and correctly how stable are liquid cooled loops to movement, like transport in a car?

I did see the " Liquid Cooling · Information/Guides & Reviews/Tests & Galleries" but much of it is older posts (2004-2008) and we all know technology can change within months, or even weeks!
thanks for your expertise

ok so not really... there has been builds in the p180 mini, I think most people could fit a dual.... for a compact pump you'd want a switech 355 or 350, with micro res top it's seriously small :)

mmm there ok ... its more for if it moves enough you could make the tubes fall off the tubing, but if you do what i do... and strap the computer in, it will be fine..

you are correct...

for a build like yours though i'd go for the microres, 350, with a slim maybe swiftech or magicool 240 rad, bit of modding and it wil fit inside ;) the p180....


however if you want it outside, just get a better rad, and for a pass through...... theres a bracket which has g1/4 threads so put whatever barbs on your using 1/2" or w/e and your good to go dont even need to butcher the case then ;)

Why not get one of those new Swiftech res/rad/pump combo units?

Otherwise, get a slim rad and a mcp350 with a res top (Like the XSPC ones).

I'm not sure how many large drive bays the p180 mini has, but XSPC has a nice dual bay res/pump top.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by irenedakota

Why not get one of those new Swiftech res/rad/pump combo units?

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Yeah when I saw that 240 rad that's exactly what I thought: it is perfect for an mATX build.

With a bit of extra thought, almost anything will fit in any case.
Use the different "floors" in your case to your advantage.
If you loose the HDD-cage on the bottom floor, you could probably get a 2.120, 1.140 or 1.160 radiator to fit, the same goes with the cages on the top floor.
It also looks to be room for an additional 120.2 radiator in the top of the case.

It's a quite spacious case so I don't think that you'll have a lot of problems fitting some LC in it.

As for compact pumps, the MCP350 or DDC with an aftermarket top should do the trick.
And the reservoir, it looks like almost any tube res will fit if you throw out the cages on the top floor.
Maybe a 5,25" bay res if you're into those, or a micro res.
Depending on the pump placement, a aftermarket top with a built in res would work.

Hope this helps a little.

Are you doing LC mostly because of performance or aesthetics?
If it's performance, I'd too say the "Swiftech res/rad/pump combo". :)

Let go of the HDD cages entirely and use a 2.5" form factor drive (SSD or not, there are some very good 2.5" 500GB drives now if you want space) - and use that space for watercooling hardware. Mini builds are by no means the easiest or newbie friendly, good luck with yours !

I've done 2 micro atx water cooled builds. The first was a heavily modified X-QPack. The second was a complete custom acrylic job with an aluminum frame. I modded the QPACK one to death one day - it would no longer support a PSU. And on the second, I went too cheap on the acrylic (too thin) and it finally cracked when moving.

I have a thing with having everything internal... if possible I recommend it, but it usually requires a dremel and patients.

I managed to get a swiffy 220 and a swiffy 120 inside the QPack. I used a MCP 350 and then an apogee drive, and then later I replaced the block and put back in the MCP350 after doing the solder mod for 18Ws. I also had a MCW60 and a MCW30 in the loop. It was very cramped, but even with fans at ~1000RPM, it was cool and quiet. I ran an e6600 at 3.6gHz in that case for awhile.

If there were retail blocks for the Gene or the Classy micro, I'd do it again. Like gmat said, it's a challenge, but IMO it's one of the places where WC'ing is most useful and fun.

Good luck and post what you end up with.


Edit: Another thing I learned, ramsinks on the board helped alot even/especially with minimal airflow.

Did you look at MM cases, such as these:

http://www.mountainmods.com/computer...y-c-21_64.html

http://www.mountainmods.com/computer...o-c-21_81.html

Not sure if those are bigger than what you want, but they should accommodate water cooling easily, especially with a mATX MB.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Utnorris

Did you look at MM cases, such as these:

http://www.mountainmods.com/computer...o-c-21_81.html

Not sure if those are bigger than what you want, but they should accommodate water cooling easily, especially with a mATX MB.

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The H2go isn't all that small, I was suprised by how big they are in person. The OP already has a case though. ;)

I assembled a mini P180 for a friend, it was aircooled though. I can see how one could mount an internal watercooling loop in there, it's still a big case (bigger than LL A05 and such), but it would require a lot of cutting, at least the bay rails that are used to slide the HDD racks and such would come in the way, also the horizontal separator would have to be modified a bit. Foregoing entirely the HDD's (using SSD) and opticals you could mount a dual 120mm rad in front and maybe one extra 120 in bottom without too much hassle, with the pump/res staying on the divider plate. Or use the bottom part to put a triple 120, and mount the PSU in a front bay, a la A05.. i think i have seen this done somewhere.
Of course the true challenge is an internal build ;)

a mini P180 isn't even much smaller then a normal atx mid tower. you're better off going with an equal size or smaller atx case, and using the unused pci slot area for a 360 rad.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Diverge

a mini P180 isn't even much smaller then a normal atx mid tower. you're better off going with an equal size or smaller atx case, and using the unused pci slot area for a 360 rad.

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That would be the bottom chamber... The case is well laid out, with some creativity you can do a 360 and maybe another 240 or 360 (on roof), all internal, not saying it would be an out-of-the-box job, still not too hard due to the case being very wide.

I appreciate the large amount of help. This is what i am looking for, for the record, this website is the ONLY site that gives viable advice! you guys rock.
As for the advice, i do like it. But the slang and terms are all a little much for me to know them (yet). But i think i got it.
I was concerned with the micro ATX board size to fit a CPU block? It looks wider than most after market zalman/thermaltake/etc fans (base wise). Will it fit on the mobo? such as theses;
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813130233
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813130246
i see links to performance-pcs and (in this thread) mountain mods
are there other sites you guys recommend? ive used Newegg for years but am open to other sites, of course!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gmat

Let go of the HDD cages entirely and use a 2.5" form factor drive (SSD or not, there are some very good 2.5" 500GB drives now if you want space) - and use that space for watercooling hardware. Mini builds are by no means the easiest or newbie friendly, good luck with yours !

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How do i fit the 2.5'' HDDs if the cage is removed?
Utnorris, I already invested in this case so, unfortunately it is too late to get another case >_<

can one Watercooling loop have more than one rad and/or pump?
do computers have multiple loops?

I didn't read the responses. It's late and I'm on cold medication (yes, some narcotics, so forgive me!)

The p180 mini is a BIG mATX case. Its huge!

That said, you can fit a lot in there if you gut the thing.

Check out this thread on the exact topic you're talking about: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=185174

Another Idea: http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/sho...php?t=17955289

I wouldn't do multiple loops. You can always mount a triple rad to the back of the case if you want more cooling. I don't see the need for two loops.

Well guys, he already bought the P180 mini, so the task at hand is to help him water-cool it. I personally have never worked on one of these cases, but from the pics, the most interesting thing to me is the top area under that 200 mm fan. That looks like a promising place to try to mount a 240mm rad, or at the very least a 140mm rad. He will probably need a relatively thin rad, like under 40mm thick, like a Swiftech or thinner. Also that bottom chamber looks interesting as well, I would like to see what rads can fit down there. But he is going to have to do a fair amount of drilling and cutting on that case for sure, no matter what he chooses to do. For a first time water cooling build, the P180 mini is going to be quite a project, and I would suggest returning the P180 mini to the store where he bought it, and getting something more first-time friendly like a CoolerMaster Cosmos S, or a CoolerMaster ATCS 840, or the HAF. All of those cases are basically plug and play for water cooling. Or if a little lite modding sounds like fun, then he can get the Silverstone TJ-07. But IMO that P180 mini is going to be a frustrating and difficult way to break into water cooling. But it is a great project, and something I would like to see someone with more experience tackle.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shryne

I was concerned with the micro ATX board size to fit a CPU block? It looks wider than most after market zalman/thermaltake/etc fans (base wise). Will it fit on the mobo? such as theses;

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I dont understand your question here.
First for a good microATX board you should look into the Asus Gene series, or the similar products from EVGA and DFI..
CPU Waterblocks will fit without any problem since those boards (intel based) have a standard socket with the 4 holes.
If you want to watercool the motherboard you'll have to see which EK or MIPS blocks do extist for microATX and then choose the corresponding board.
The miniP180 will fit any aftermarket cooler, even the biggest/tallest ones. I have built an aircooled system in it with a TRUE black, and a passive GPU cooling, all very massive heatsinks, and there was plenty of room left.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shryne

How do i fit the 2.5'' HDDs if the cage is removed?

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You have many solutions, one is the Scythe Slot Rafter, which you can attach to an extension slot or even detach its bracket and mount it anywhere you want. The case has enough room for creativity there.

Other solution, 2.5" drives all have screw holes on the sides AND bottom which means you can mount them flat on a panel, for example behind the motherboard panel...


The best setups i have seen with this case use the bottom chamber for a huge rad, and relocate the PSU in front just above the divider plate.
NOT newbie friendly... not at all. You better start getting used to the power tools ;)

NOTHING beats a Qmicra on MATX when it comes to H2O.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/60...Case_Q201.html

http://www.pcdesignlab.com/images/forums/Q2-D.jpg

There's somebody that's done this. they took out everything the top section, put a dual 120mm Rad/res combo in the front where the hdd racks where. Then used a Swiftech Apogee Block/Pump combo.

They only have one hard drive in the bottom 5.25" bay though.

I saw Lian Li V351 with WC, A05N is a nice option too in smaller case...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NaeKuh

NOTHING beats a Qmicra on MATX when it comes to H2O.

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There are a lot of logs out there for this one. It has some limitations, but it's a nice case. Pricey though.

I still prefer the scratch build... If you've got the time.

i found this image;
http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/1557/p180side.th.jpg
i see the koolance pump/reservoir on top but isnt it a radiator too? its got the two 120 fans on it and all that, right?
also what is that thing in the 5.25 drive bay with tubing coming out?
what is the performance of that koolance combo unit on top? is it a good pump?
also are there adapters or something so i can use the bottom tow 5.25 bays (on bottom of case) for HDDs?
edit: why do the tubes in and out of the CPU have coils?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shryne

i found this image;
http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/1557/p180side.th.jpg

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That's a full size P180...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shryne

i see the koolance pump/reservoir on top but isnt it a radiator too? its got the two 120 fans on it and all that, right?

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Cant see it.. you can put a dual rad or maybe triple on top of yours too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shryne

also what is that thing in the 5.25 drive bay with tubing coming out?

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(edit) oops didnt see it above the radiator. Looks like an "Aquadrive" or something like it...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shryne

what is the performance of that koolance combo unit on top? is it a good pump?

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Not really... not very competitive to good aircooling

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shryne

also are there adapters or something so i can use the bottom tow 5.25 bays (on bottom of case) for HDDs?

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Plenty. But like i said i'd use that space for watercooling...
If you want to mount drives in 5.25 bays there are zillions of adapters, for 2.5 or 3.5 drives. Lian Li, Scythe, and almost everyone make them.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shryne

edit: why do the tubes in and out of the CPU have coils?

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Those coils are supposed to prevent kinks in the tubing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gmat

That's a full size P180...
Oh, so it is the mid tower P182. Well, it gives me barings to asses what i can do, right?

Cant see it.. you can put a dual rad or maybe triple on top of yours too.
Im guessing its a koolance thing, that is not a stock top to that case, as you can see the tubs go up there. Could it be this;
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22572
Its got the same side marks?


(edit) oops didnt see it above the radiator. Looks like an "Aquadrive" or something like it...
what is that?

Not really... not very competitive to good aircooling
what kind of setup would dominate air cooling?

Plenty. But like i said i'd use that space for watercooling...
If you want to mount drives in 5.25 bays there are zillions of adapters, for 2.5 or 3.5 drives. Lian Li, Scythe, and almost everyone make them.
I will look into those companies

Those coils are supposed to prevent kinks in the tubing.
why not for all the tubing?

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see red text

See my sig-rig I am building...it is actually finished now but I ran into some more urgent stuff since I started it so never got to take more pics or update things in that thread. I promise I will post some pics of my setup tomorrow though they will be lousy probably as I returned the SLR I had borrowed originally to do the build pics. I'd be happy to give you details on what I did.

This is all done in a Micro-ATX case found here http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16811204035

:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shryne

i found this image;
http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/1557/p180side.th.jpg
i see the koolance pump/reservoir on top but isnt it a radiator too? its got the two 120 fans on it and all that, right?
also what is that thing in the 5.25 drive bay with tubing coming out?
what is the performance of that koolance combo unit on top? is it a good pump?
also are there adapters or something so i can use the bottom tow 5.25 bays (on bottom of case) for HDDs?
edit: why do the tubes in and out of the CPU have coils?

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That is not the Koolance all in one unit you think it is, in fact, it's not even an all in one. It's actually 2 separate units. If you look at the pic closer, you can see that that tubes go to the drive bay which is where the Koolance pump/res/control unit is and up top is just a shroud with a rad attached.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gmat

Not really... not very competitive to good aircooling

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Hmm, really?. . .care to post your proof? Koolance has seriously stepped up their game in the last 1½ to 2 years so it better be pretty convincing evidence.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shryne

see red text

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...1&d=1264122600

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Those type units are no longer typical of Koolance's hardware, I'm not positive but, I believe they may be phasing those types of systems out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dejanh

See my sig-rig I am building...I promise I will post some pics of my setup tomorrow
:D

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i look forward to it!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

That is not the Koolance all in one unit you think it is, in fact, it's not even an all in one. It's actually 2 separate units. If you look at the pic closer, you can see that that tubes go to the drive bay which is where the Koolance pump/res/control unit is and up top is just a shroud with a rad attached.

Those type units are no longer typical of Koolance's hardware, I'm not positive but, I believe they may be phasing those types of systems out.

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performance-pcs.com has them there, and that is what i was going by to identify it. I dont see a pump anywhere so i assumed that had to be a combo reservoir and pump, no?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shryne

i look forward to it!



performance-pcs.com has them there, and that is what i was going by to identify it. I dont see a pump anywhere so i assumed that had to be a combo reservoir and pump, no?

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One of these is the unit in the drive bay.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=21424

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25341

then the top unit is a radiator? it must be a huge one, and the whole top of that case is not stock...
edit, dont those pump/reservoir combos go against a basic rule of liquid cooling? Have as few turns in the loop as possible. Those units have several 90 degree turns!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shryne

then the top unit is a radiator? it must be a huge one, and the whole top of that case is not stock...
edit, dont those pump/reservoir combos go against a basic rule of liquid cooling? Have as few turns in the loop as possible. Those units have several 90 degree turns!!

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It's merely a shroud with a rad. The shroud "buys" more room in the case by relocating the rad to a slightly higher location. They have 3 and 4 fan models which have a matching bottom part (3 fan / 4 fan) to make a fully enclosed unit or "buy" even more room in the case.

As for the pump/res combo and the 90's, it's nothing that particular pump can't overcome, they're pretty powerful little pumps.

ur good, i see what they did now! is that the best idea for a small(er) case (with the same basic layout) like mine? and why are only the tubes on the CPU wrapped?

EDIT: and why is there a second mini radiator at the END of the loop?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shryne

ur good, i see what they did now! is that the best idea for a small(er) case (with the same basic layout) like mine? and why are only the tubes on the CPU wrapped?

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If you don't mind the shroud sticking up like that. . .yeah, it's a pretty decent option.

For that. . .I haven't a clue. :shrug:

what is the function of wrapping the tubes?

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/e...31_resized.jpg

A05N setup :):up:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shryne

what is the function of wrapping the tubes?

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To allow a tighter bend radius without kinking.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lichyetan

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/e...31_resized.jpg

A05N setup :):up:

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Is the rear fan functioning as an intake?

Im looking now at the logistics here and there are 7.5cm of clearance above the mobo (after removing the fan). That can fit these radiators with 120 25mm fans.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25250
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=3985

Would it be ok to have the rad at the top of the case?
is there a better option?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shryne

i look forward to it!

snip...

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Done. Build log updated :D Pics are not the best but they will do. If anyone wants to inquire about the MIPS blocks in my build let me know via PM. I may/should be able to help you out ;)

Anyway, enjoy :D

Ok, im torn on a GFX card... $300 would be my max...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shryne

Ok, im torn on a GFX card... $300 would be my max...

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I went with two HD 4850s. They provided best $/performance ratio and were single slot so I could use two in CF. I actually got one as a promotion and the other for $30 off of Craigslist ;) though even purchased if you can find them they are quite cheap.

i almost did that but i am worried about space and airflow with the crossfire. i found this card to work perfectly. its only 9.5 inches long!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-857-_-Product

about to finish this one, RII Gene NB and CPU stay cool with 1000rpm fan 2xSSD behind motherbord tray and there is 2 drive bay free still.
http://www.adriano-saunders.com/images/IMGP1.JPG
http://www.adriano-saunders.com/images/IMGP2.JPG
http://www.adriano-saunders.com/images/IMGP3.JPG

that looks really good!! what is the tube that goes up into the case next to the top fan for?

Is this the northbridge water block you are using?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24469

its a fill/drain port :) ,northbridge block its the same you may check using EK configurator

As far as mobility goes it should be fine. My system is made out of two full tower cases that split apart so I can move them back and forth from school. They have been moved over 20 times and have never had a problem. :up:

So Ive done some searching and some assuming (sorry!). I've mostly concluded what liquid cooling components to use for this build. I do however still have a few questions and also am in need of a few clarifications. I do have a few parts i don't know which is better and need help deciding on, as well.

Im torn on the CPU block, these were the two i was looking at;
Swiftech APOGEE XT Ultra Extreme Performance CPU Water Block
Alphacool HF 14 Yellowstone B/B/B Socket 775/1366/1156 Ultimate CPU Water Block

EK-NB ASUS HP Northbridge Water Block - Acetal

Bitspower BP-WBVGA5870AC-MBK GPU Block for ATI 5850/5870

XSPC 150 Passive Aluminium Reservoir
Here is an area i did not see a clear answer on what reservoir to use. I would like some input here

Black Ice Pro II Compact High Performance Radiator
Is there a better low profile option?

Koolance PMP-450 High-flow Pump
good head :cool:

EK-Mosfet ASUS X58 KIT
does this fit my Asus Rampage II Gene? I was under the impression i will need these?

What tubing should i use?!

whats the deal with flow meters and temp gauge? do i need them? etc.Koolance INS-FM17 Coolant Flow Meter & Adapter Board

Fittings & Connectors?

Koolance Tubing Spring Wrap, Black [10mm, 3/8"]
(where applicable)
Primochill Reusable Hose Clamp [10mm, 3/8" OD]

please let me know if any of these are horrible decisions. I am in no way married to what i wrote here :) this is just what my novice mind thought would be a good setup. Set me straight if its clear i need better direction.
Lastly, tell me if anything here is not compatible (bars/sizing/fittings/whatever)! thanks!!

Is there anyone out there that can help atm? i need to order ASAP!!

I'd go with the Apogee over the Alphacool.

Res: Do not want, I can't get any clearer than that. It will cause galvanic corrosion if you don't use a lot of anti corrosion blocker (which will hurt your temps). Go with a EK multi-option, Magicool tube, Swiftech McRes-micro, or (dare I say it) Alphacool tube (make sure they have Delrin ends before ordering).

BIP: This is my personal choice/recommendation for true thin rad requirements. If you can fit a 34mm thick rad, go with Swiftech MCR.

Pump: If your looking for a D5, scroll down P-PC's listing page a little further for the Swiftech MCP655 for a good bit less for the exact same pump. My personal preference is the DDC which is a little bit strong than the D5.

Flow meter is really not needed but they do seem to give a few piece of mind knowing what they're flow rate is and can give a clue as to something wrong (like a block slowly getting clogged up) with the system in advance with proper monitoring.

Tubing: I personally like Primochill's PrimoFlex Pro LRT, very nice bend radius and some nice colors. :yepp:

Fittings: If your going with those clamps, I'd recommend 3/8" barb fittings from Koolance. I'd also recommend you get the proper size clamps for the tubing you get. I'm guessing you'll be getting 3/8" x 1/2" tubing (since that's the size of the coils), so you'll need 1/2" clamps. Koolance make some pretty nice nickel plated clamps like that for $.20 more each, have a whole bunch of them myself.

Im a little lost on the tubing and clams/"nozzles".
ID = inner diameter
OD = outer diameter
WT = wall thickness

on the Apogee it says " Fittings Stock 1/4" BSPP X 1/2 " Barb Chrome Plated Fittings" (stock).
was is the BSPP? does that mean i cannot use 3/8 tubing?
I was gonna go 3/8 (10mm)
(not a fan of this standard system, hard to remember)
but also use compression fittings (koolance)
the clamps, tubling, and fittings are where i get lost! and i am not sure it will all be compatible! lol
Thanks for checking the other hardware, i too looked at the Swiftech 655 and made the same change when i saw the price :)
i assume BIP is "black Ice Pro" so i did good with that pick! woot.

EDIT: here is what i have so far
http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/1699/cart001.jpg
i will do the GPU later
but i need to make sure all will fit 10mm ID tubing
and get the right fittings for the GPU block for the future
compression ones dont need clamps, right?
are they reliable as clamps? the deff look better to me, but are they worth the investment
do i need to somehow get adapters or replacements for the pump (its at 13mm (i believe)) and the CPU block too?

1/4" BSPP refers to the thread size of the fitting. This has finally been somewhat standardized so with a minor few exceptions, there's nothing to worry about here.

The other dimension given is the barb end of the fitting, which in that case, is 1/2". This means that it's for 1/2" inside diameter tubing which would make the Outside diameter either 5/8" or 3/4" depending on the wall thickness you preferred. Most ppl prefer the thicker wall thickness because they feel it gives a better bend radius and less chance of collapsing on the more extreme bends.

[rant]Personally, I say bollocks to that, as most of the worklogs and finish builds in the gallery I see don't have proper bend radii to start with and they wouldn't know a proper bend radius if it bit them in the arse. [/rant]

If you plan on using Koolance compressions, you don't need the clamps at all. You also don't have to worry about what size fittings the blocks come with as you'll be replacing them all anyway. Just make sure that if you order 3/8" x 5/8" compression fittings, you have to get that size tubing, and if you go for 3/8" x 1/2", you have to get that size tubing for those. This goes for any compression fittings.

If you could post up some links to the tubing and fittings you'd like to use, we'll make sure they check out for you.

http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/1699/cart001.jpg

is this fitting right?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25274

and it will fit on all blocks, pumps, reservoirs, rads, etc?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shryne

http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/1699/cart001.jpg

is this fitting right?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25274

and it will fit on all blocks, pumps, reservoirs, rads, etc?

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The things I see wrong with that is, it says 1/2" fittings for the BIP and I'm under the impression that the ones P-PC's are getting have the soldered barbs on them. This means that if you decide to change the loop to 1/2" I.D. tubing down the road, you'll either need a new rad or some crappy 1/2" to 3/8" reducing adapters. I'd send an e-mail to them and find out first if you think it's going to be a potential problem for you.

Also noticed that the MCP655 is the "B" version. It's a single setting pump that is set at speed setting 4 on the Vario version which makes it a bit weaker. You'll need to select the MCP655 "with speed controller" in the drop menu, it's still $10 cheaper than the Koolance version.

3/8" I.D. tubing is very difficult to get over the 1/2" fittings on the MCP655. Just boil some water and dip the end of the tubing in it for ~20-30 seconds and it should make it a little easier to get it on. Use zip ties or some kind of clamp as well.

Yep, those are the right fittings for that tubing. Enzo claims they are 20mm O.D. which tells me they should fit everything just fine

let me repeat that conclusion to see if i understand.
Those Enzotech fittings will fit all the parts (except maybe the rad). The pump, CPU block, reservoir, etc.
The rad may have soldered ends and that means i may need a new rad in the future. (if i get that rad i need to use a clap or zip-tie)
be sure to get the speed controller on the pump! The pump is fixed at 1/2'' ID but with a little trick i can fit the 3/8'' (boil 20-30 secs)

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/2524/cart002.jpg
lastly here is the final cart, do i need any more fittings for the reservoir? or other misc parts for this water loop?
what about fluid? what additives do i need? distilled water is the base?
(do i need more fittings?)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shryne

let me repeat that conclusion to see if i understand.
Those Enzotech fittings will fit all the parts (except maybe the rad). The pump, CPU block, reservoir, etc.
The rad may have soldered ends and that means i may need a new rad in the future. (if i get that rad i need to use a clap or zip-tie)
be sure to get the speed controller on the pump! The pump is fixed at 1/2'' ID but with a little trick i can fit the 3/8'' (boil 20-30 secs)

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/2524/cart002.jpg
lastly here is the final cart, do i need any more fittings for the reservoir? or other misc parts for this water loop?
what about fluid? what additives do i need? distilled water is the base?
(do i need more fittings?)

---

:yepp:

You'll need to add 7ft to your tubing and coils (depending on if you want to sleeve the entire tubing with it). You'll also need to add 2 or 4 to your fittings depending on the rad. I really would check with P-PC's about the rad first so you will know for sure before ordering.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Shryne

let me repeat that conclusion to see if i understand.
Those Enzotech fittings will fit all the parts (except maybe the rad). The pump, CPU block, reservoir, etc.
The rad may have soldered ends and that means i may need a new rad in the future. (if i get that rad i need to use a clap or zip-tie)
be sure to get the speed controller on the pump! The pump is fixed at 1/2'' ID but with a little trick i can fit the 3/8'' (boil 20-30 secs)

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/2524/cart002.jpg
lastly here is the final cart, do i need any more fittings for the reservoir? or other misc parts for this water loop?
what about fluid? what additives do i need? distilled water is the base?
(do i need more fittings?)

---

- 10ft of tubing minimum
- anti-kink coils are a complete waste of money with the Primochill tubing (the tubing bends very well as you can see in my HTPC build)
- in my personal opinion compression fittings are a waste unless you are going for show only; good quality Bitspower barbs with worm-drive clamps are the best and probably like 1/3 of the price
- you should not get the MCP655; you should get MCP355 with an aftermarket top like EK-DDC X-Top Rev 2...the size is much more compact and the performance is very good, especially if you add more blocks since it has much higher head pressure than the D5 (MCP655)

The number of fittings (barbs and/or compressions) you will need completely depends on number of components you have and whether you are re-using any stock barbs (e.g., using stock barbs of the pump), obviously 2 per component.

i was going to do the compression for show, and they are flippin' pricy! may have to scale back on the kink coils.....
mcp355, i cannot find the aftermarket top you are referring to, unless its this;
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24825
you bring up a good point and i need the compact pump. head pressure is good, what about the max flow (gallons per hour / litre per min)?
how does that top make a significant difference?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Shryne

i was going to do the compression for show, and they are flippin' pricy! may have to scale back on the kink coils.....
mcp355, i cannot find the aftermarket top you are referring to, unless its this;
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=24825
you bring up a good point and i need the compact pump. head pressure is good, what about the max flow (gallons per hour / litre per min)?
how does that top make a significant difference?

---

That's the top :D IIRC MCP355 with a good aftermarket top has very good flow *and* high pressure. Flow should not be far from that of D5, possibly even a bit better but you will get significantly better pressure with a much smaller footprint. With your setup your flow will be >1.25GPM, likely even >1.5GPM.

Save yourself some cash on those enzo fittings...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-042-_-Product

and

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-034-_-Product

I have 6 enzo compressions and 2 barbs that came with a saphire block. They're not as pretty as my bitspowers, but they look nice and do the job. (cheap too). I have no complaints anyway.

What about fluid?
do i use just distilled water?
what if i want it a color? which dye is best?
what do you guys recommend?

EDIT and how much should i purchase?
i gather Distilled water and a biocide, anti-corrosive, and "waterWetter" is best combo?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=1955
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=23985

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Shryne

What about fluid?
do i use just distilled water?
what if i want it a color? which dye is best?
what do you guys recommend?

EDIT and how much should i purchase?
i gather Distilled water and a biocide, anti-corrosive, and "waterWetter" is best combo?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=1955
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=23985

---

For fluid use pure distilled, nothing else. Water-wetter is useless and will only hurt your temps. It is designed for extreme temperatures in car engines, not for water cooling systems where temps never reach past 30-ish Celsius. For "biocide" use silver coils, or alternatively get four (4) or so silver plated fittings from Bitspower and use them in your loop. That should be enough to keep the loop clean unless you are blasting it with light all the time.

In terms of color, you should not use dye in your fluid. You should use straight distilled and buy colored tubing. Primochill pretty much comes in every color as far as I know.

Alright. ive bought all the goods, but the CPU back plate came stripped so im waiting again on a replacement. Fired her up. all other components work. But i am now coming to full realization of the impossibilities of making it work in this case. I see how it can all work as i hoped but i do no posses the tools and facilities to do the necessary work. As much as i love small cases...i need to be a bit bigger... i will do some research in that now but am interested in your suggestions here.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Shryne

Alright. ive bought all the goods, but the CPU back plate came stripped so im waiting again on a replacement. Fired her up. all other components work. But i am now coming to full realization of the impossibilities of making it work in this case. I see how it can all work as i hoped but i do no posses the tools and facilities to do the necessary work. As much as i love small cases...i need to be a bit bigger... i will do some research in that now but am interested in your suggestions here.

---

So what issue are you having now? You don't want to mod your case?

Oh i do want to mod the case. But i thought i did not have the access to the power tools. Luckily i asked a client of mine and he said i can borrow his jigsaw! so now i can cut to fit the rad in this case. I will not give up yet!!
I did get a bad back plate for my CPU block and now am waiting for the replacement... so on hold for the moment.
Also ive been looking at mofest and NB coolers (SB too) but none say Asus Rampage II Gene specifically.
I assume when the say "rampage II Extreme" and X58 Asus motherboard" it will fit mine but i wanted a confirmation.
Here
here
here
here
lastly, here