My 2nd T3 reservoir is leaking again and I can see small cracks inside.
I knew something was wrong as there was always tiny bubbles on the inside.
Can anyone confirm if there is a manufacturing fault with these reservoirs?
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My 2nd T3 reservoir is leaking again and I can see small cracks inside.
I knew something was wrong as there was always tiny bubbles on the inside.
Can anyone confirm if there is a manufacturing fault with these reservoirs?
I have some tiny bubbles on it when I checked to see if there is a crack
and yes a large crack was there :down::shocked:
and now waiting for brian to have me a replacement but no reply:shakes:
how thin is the acrylic walls?
The walls are as thick as most other reservoirs.
I don't know whether it is quality control problems or faulty batch.
Waiting on new replacement tomorrow from different retailer as the retailer I purchased it from is out of stock.
If the new one cracks I will be purchasing a different res from a different supplier.
Pity as I love this reservoir and I have purchased a faceplate too.
What coolant are your using? What do you use to clean it? Is it leaking around fittings?
They were having issues with the China manufacturing company, so they pulled out and are bringing everything back stateside.
Give Brian a call.
Not a thread I wanted to encounter after just installing my new T3, especially with how much I had to torque the pump mounting screws to get it to seal. maybe I'll step up to a thicker o-ring to be sure.
:shakes:
I am using non conductive prima ice coolant.
I was going to use thermochill EC6 but the stuff smells like pure alcohol.
Don't overtighten the pump assembly or you will crack the acrylic plate.
When I emptied the T3 the plastic is very cloudy and it's only 3 months old.
I really hope Brian gets the new batch sorted as it's a great res.
Correct. We simply could not get consistent parts from them unfortunately. The Chinese company refused to do the paperwork needed to ship the molds (pretty much holding them hostage) so Brian had to hire a "rescue" company that went in and got the molds which are now at an injection molder in California.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
The new company is polishing out the scratches/blemishes in the molds etc. and I should have the first samples at my shop in Texas by the end of next week hopefully. They will also be switching to an ABS type plastic that is stronger and not as easily affected by alcohol or ethylene glycol.
I guess they are also looking at performance with and without the brass inserts.
I will update the T3 thread whenever I know more.
Good thing you used the Primochill coolant. The Thermochill would have voided your warranty if glycol was in it. (I'm not certain as I haven't looked).Quote:
Originally Posted by Barso
Brian and BoxGods should get you taken care of though. :)
Keep an eye on it then. There shouldn't have been any reason to torque down the screws.Quote:
Originally Posted by rogueagent6
Nice to hear that got everything taken care of G. :up:
FYI .. alcohol dissolves acrylic, take care when you mix alcohol content coolants
Glad to see you got it sorted BG.
Do you recommend that I wait and get the new T3 or will my current one be okay?
If its from a crack or a bad seal that is not due to using different fittings than Primochill's included ones. I would change it. Why would you want to keep a leaking res?Quote:
Originally Posted by Barso
All this talk about leaking T3s and poor quality has got me worried about my coming T3, and since I'm 1/2 way around the world, replacements are going to be difficult :(
You might be getting a new one if it hasn't shipped yet. BoxGods and Brian will take care of you if you happen to get a bad one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverhawk
It sucks it has been happening, but at least it's being corrected. :)
I will admit that BG and Brian have got my vote.
It's very rarely that companies correct any wrongs today and I know this has not damaged any concerns I have with them.
I will be purchasing from them again and I know my T3 will be fixed whatever happens.
So congrats Boxgods and Brian for doing the right thing and keeping the customer happy.
cracks? Manufacturer defects?
I would like to go ahead and reserve my replacement just in case. So far holding strong though.
omg, i'm also get a crack typhoon reservoir :d, i bought 2 about a couple months ago from ppc just just about to use it now, just saw this crack at bay screw mount at the left side. the problem is i live outside US, so maybe RMA is impossible for me, gotta find some way to fix that reservoir if my RMA was denied. :D.
Sorry about my bad english, as it's not my main language.....
... mine is still sitting on the corner of my room just waiting for some free time to come up for the assembly.... for about a month now.
With everyone talking about the cracks... makes me really worried about having it installed.
If it does crack... I'll be in the same boat as levinan there.... half way around the world...
Is there any DIY way to reinforce the acrylic?
Just use soft mount screws ? (like the Lian Li ones with the rubber ring) - and dont tighten the screws too hard.. That's what i'm about to do with my T3.
So you're also an international customer then, i thought it was just me :D,Quote:
Originally Posted by washu9
the other one are good, but this one :mad: that clerk at ppc.com just paying attention the stuff got to send :d. If I may, where are you from my friend ???
i'm from indonesia anyway, so it's already impossible for me to RMA since the shipping cost are way too high (about same price with the item value). As for the item it's already 3 months old :d, but knew about this crack about 2 days ago (the item at my brother's place at another town, because of shipping cost reason :D).
Yeah i'm also gonna try that trick too :D, since i'm already leak testing it by pouring water inside but without pump testing since it'll arrive in the next 3 days i think (sitting at custom right now) from Gary (swc.com).Quote:
Originally Posted by gmat
But just a moment ago i'm already submitted a ticket for Brian @primochill website, so let's see what's gonna happen then :d.
Anyway here's the culprit :d, sorry i can't make the spoiler tag.....
http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/a...01_RESIZED.jpg
http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/a...07_RESIZED.jpg
http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/a...03_RESIZED.jpg
yes mine has that problem to
and Iīm waiting for my replacement and it almost past 30 days since i sent the RMA mail to brian
the cracks: is a problem due to the thickness of the wall , the acrylic should have minimum 9mm. the fastener weakens the wall becouse its too thinQuote:
Originally Posted by meanmoe
Thats cool. Truth is that I really don't care why. It's a pricey and much hyped item and if it cracks it's worthless. Oh, and I bought faceplates too and additional fittings, so I'm invested in this thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by JASSAF
It seems though that they've admitted that there's a problem and that they've fixed it and if primochill is as good as folks say they are with their customers then I'm not worried. Like I said, mine is still holding strong and I'll be extra careful when mounting. (I still want to reserve one in case though :D)
@Levinan : is it crack from the beginning?, or damages from instalation in the case?
I imagine Brian is just a bit busy right now. It seems everyone has been busy due to the holiday season. As Boxgods has stated above, they are fixing these issues. :)
I have now returned mine but they are out of stock.
I will wait until the new ones are released from the new manufacturer.
I also have one of the new ones with the new allen key fasteners but I still think it all boils down to the thickness of the acrylic.
the reservoir crack it's from beginning, but since i dont see it myself i thought it was a molding imperfection, when my brother told me about it. Because if, it;s because shipment the box would be tear / crashed. when my brother received the box intact like new :d. And also i don't get a led light in the package which like the product picture description :d.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boyu
Why is that when Primochill PC-ICE is the same exact thing?Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Dude if brian is saying he will not take the other because its not his company being forumated the same, then i am NOT gonna endorse this product anymore.
Mille this statement has to be the biggest BS statement a vendor can make. And i cant believe your accepting this.
BOXGODS care to make a statement?
Mille verify this, because i am seriously gonna FLAG people AWAY if this is true.
I dont deal with Shaddy vendors.
NaeKuh......from Primochill's website pages......
In their PC ICE description:
Quote above taken from Features section of linked page....about half way down page.Quote:
Environmentally responsible food safe NON-TOXIC biodegradable product—good for you, good for your PC, and good for the planet. We do NOT use Ethylene Glycol in our fluids.
In their PC PURE description:
Quote above taken from Features section of linked page....about half way down page.Quote:
Environmentally responsible food safe non toxic biodegradable product. Good for you, good for your PC, and good for the planet.
Designed as the ultimate OVERCLOCKERS fluid. With no fancy glycols or special chemical compounds, just PURE PERFORMANCE.
So, it seems neither PC ICE nor PC PURE uses glycol, at least in current formulations.
From their Typhoon III description page:
Quote above from bottom of this linked page.Quote:
Typhoon III Reservoir System - PEC has a 3-year limited warranty. Use of cooling fluids that contain Ethylene Glycol (Feser One) or any other harsh chemicals void the warranty for this product.
So, using glycol containing fluids will void the warranty on the Typhoon III res.
There not saying not to use other vendors coolants. They are saying not to use anything with Glycol in it. It will not react well with the acrylic.Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
I thought you knew about that. That was the big debate when it first came out and everyone found out you couldn't use Feser in it.
BoxGods did make mention of switching over to an ABS plastic which may allow the use of Glycol based coolants though. :shrug:
You can use Fluid XP with it ;) And it can still leak. ABS I think will resolve the issues on a couple fronts (glycol and stress cracks).Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
is it the acrylic thats the problem of or the bonding strip. For some reason I thought that the bonding strip was why ethelene glycol was prohibited. I think I read it in the T3 thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
There was a concern over using the clear bonding strip. That is why the first ones where the yellow band.Quote:
Originally Posted by meanmoe
It is the acrylic though. That is the reason for not being able to use glycol. A photo was posted here of someone who did and it wasn't pretty.
Apologies if my previous statement about the thermochill EC6 coolant smelling like it contained glycol.
I have checked with the supplier and thermochill and it does not.
I am currently using it with a new T3 with the clear bonding strip and it works okay.
I still want one of the new T3 res's when they appear.
It's a pity that they never went with the new manufacturer's at the start but being self-employed in a business that experiments with new materials and formulas, I can understand how these things do happen.
Seems to me that the problem lies with the acrylic around the screw holes not being strong/thick enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by levinan
I presume that, being a water container product, each one already been pressure tested before they come out. Just that they never thought to test the retention system.
Thinking about it, might also be a problem since we got the motor pump mounted inside, and thus the vibrations get transfered to the retention system. That would make sense why it takes several months for the cracks to appear. There might also be too much imperfections in the acrylic as well that would make this problem worse.
What they should have done is make those screw holes separate from the acrylic, rather being installed DIRECTLY into the acrylic. Then use a rubbery adhesive compound to install the screw holes. Using the main structure of the container, acrylic being non-flexible and all, is a rather major oversight.
Those being my analysis, it would definitely help if we would all use nylon screws, with rubber washers to reduce vibration stresses. And should use all the screw holes available so as not to over-stress any single screw connections more than we have to.
Another recommendation would be to put the reservoir on the bottom drive slots (for those with plate on the bottom of the slot), that would also reduce stresses on the holding mechanism if it's not holding the full weight of the reservoir. If you got some space below the reservoir, I'd fill it with some silicone for further reduce vibrations.
Oh, BTW, levinan, I'm in the same country as you. :p:
We don't have any good stores around that actually stocks WC products. Nearest one I could think of is Aus, but their product line is not nearly as complete.
Well, I ordered a Typhoon III from Jab-tech and it arrived today. It seems to be in fine condition... but I'm still waiting for my PA 120.2 and EK WB for my video card before I test it out... stuff should hopefully get here tomorrow.
Definitely. That's what i'm doing (along with having it rest on a divider plate with soundproofing / cushion) - use rubber mounts. The screws are M3 right ?Quote:
Originally Posted by washu9
There are some rubber like stickers included with it. Use those, then I also used some weather stripping on each side. You can't see it and it helps to isolate it.Quote:
Originally Posted by gmat
The best thing to do for the T3 though is use a vario D5 and crank that thing down to 2-3. You will not hear the pump then, very little vibration, and it shouldn't effect temps at all on most peoples loops.
2-3... would u recommend it for me?Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
I got 1 triple rad + 1 dual rad + HK3 + mosfets + NB-SB + 295
... I'm just not so sure that's a good idea.
Would you put the foam weatherstripping on the case or the T3 itself?
They might not be too visible on the outside, but removing the adhesive when you want to replace em or move it to another place is really hard.
I put mine on T3. I forgot to take pictures when I did it. I didn't put any top and bottom (no need) just on the sides toward the front face of the res.
Try it. Its not hard to get to the adjustment screw (at least on mine) Turn it down and see how your temps are. It is noticeably quieter. I have everything you have, minus MB blocks and replace HK with Swiftech XT. :)
Hey hey. So I turned my machine off and left it off for the first time in a while. When I checked back there was a puddle in the bottom of my case (it's an open air case, you couldn't miss it). So guess what happened, that's right, the T3 leaked.
The leak is at the top back screw hole for the pump flange. When the pump is on and the system is closed, it doesn't leak. When I turn the pump off or open the fill port the rise in pressure causes it to slowly leak through the crack.
I thought I'd post because it's kind of funny my last post in this thread I was joking about having one reserved for me. So I guess I'll open up a ticket on their website or something report on the result.
Hmm, maybe I should turn my computer off one day?
My first T3 cracked at the mounting sites of the pump leaking fluid resulting in one dead MB. WCUK were prompt with the rma of the T3. The replacement T3 is water tight but have noted the same imperfections in the moulding and will be keeping a regular check for leaks from the same point.
I don't care too much about the molding imperfections... they're so minor. I do mind water in my case though.
I wonder if they'll send me the led that was broken when I got it also. I do have to say though that I have confidence in them taking car of me (just like they did you). (I bought straight from primochill)
well m on my second one :( first one cracked really bad, T3 produced cracks on the studs that i didnt even use ). opened up a ticket and had it resolved but it took a over month to get a replacement T3 (with all there productions problems im lucky i got one). got the new one in and keeped an eye on it. and now its starting to crack as well (took about 2.5 weeks). ive used nothing but distilled water and 4 bitspower true silver fittings (not on the T3). was super careful not to over tighten the pump mounting screws. also my computer gets put sleep/turned off every night. the cracks are starting at the raised part of the mounting studs. they start off as hair line cracks and then they spread out to the rest of the stud. im suspecting the fluctuation of temperatures is causing the metal to expand and contract something the acrylic isnt ment to do and thus it cracks at the thinest points. opened a ticket up yesterday once i started to notice the cracks. i like the T3 but if this is going to be a cycle things i might just not use it and go with a traditional loop.
wow dont really post alot but i really got to update my signature
the thickness of acrylic T3 and metal screws, for more anti vibration you put on
it affects the res
send a ticket for almost 2 months and I'm still waiting them to send me one here in Spain
in the beginning they seems to ignore me but they sent me mail telling me that they are doing there best and fast as possible to bring back this res
I guess they are making the walls thicker
I am very angry about that right now I have my computer running with air instead of water stuff
I will wait until the year ends
but if primochill doesnīt send me a res I'll buy 1 pump D5 and D5 dual top
at least eddie (EK) is concerned for his client
sorry for my bad english !!!
Just chill out strike. Primochill had too many problems with the manufacturer in China so they are in the process of moving production to the US and while they are at it, they are also changing the material used to make the res to ABS (IIRC). This is going to take time but I believe (as BoxGods and Primochill do) the product will be much better as a result. Patience is a virtue. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by strike
I'm just about to start assembling my system...
So at this point does EVERYONE got problem with cracks on the T3 regardless of any precautions you've taken? Or is there a success story somewhere?
This is causing me great concern over the actual viability of using this reservoir in any system.
Hah, chill out? Seriously, ALOT of people bought the T3 based on all the recommendation and incredible hype on this forum. And although I have complete confidence that primochill will take care of us - telling someone to chill out who's been waiting a long time and/or has lost hardware due to a defect of such a highly recommended product is probably not very appreciated. A product should be qualified before shipping it out to consumers. But that's just my opinion.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
If it all works out, I actually plan to buy another one for a build in Feb. The concept is still great , but the problems need to be fixed. (And I believe they will be)
Well, I've just had to pull apart and re-do my machine - walked into comp room this morning to be greeted with a nice puddle on the floor. Thankfully the machine was off at the time.
TIII has cracks all over it - spidering out from where the fittings screw in, spidering out from the front fill-port holes, and especially from the sides where the metal insets are to screw it into the bays. I've used acrylic before, I'm aware that fittings need to be finger-tightened only, and I've never forced anything into it - but it's still cracked to hell and gone, and as others are saying, leaking from the screw-hole parts on the sides whenever the pump is on. Unfortunately, I got it shipped direct from the USA - so warranty is going to be an absolute pain in the bum.
My first T3 had issues and somewhere within the T3 post I had put my pictures in. Thing is it didn't harm the front of the res only the rear half, and the fluid that I used was fine inside a different single bay res. Never did get ahold of an MSDS sheet for the fluid I was using that I had nabbed from work but I can say that it was totally the fluid that had ate up mine. Oh well. /shrug
I had distilled water in mine. What is the coolant that you used exactly?
My problem is the same as SoulsCollective's. Cracks began to form at the little barbs on the screw inserts. Also, like his, mine only leaked when it was off (so far).
So if an engineer designed this, they should be fired, and if an engineer did not, they should've consulted one because:
material + structure + residual stress from fabrication + vibration environment (from pump) + possible thermal environment == must test (or over design).
I've had my T3 running for 3 weeks now, no sign of cracks. It was one of the last in stock at jab-tech, so I'm assuming it was of the first batch that was having issues.
I'm hoping that it stays good at least until Primochill gets production back up...
I don't think it's 'only' the first batch.Quote:
Originally Posted by Baulten
If you read the other posts here, there's a few people who got repeated failures (after replacements).
I'm one of those that got their T3 from overseas.... this is cause for great concern for me as there is no way I'm shipping it back and forth to the US.
I have distilled in mine currently with my 2nd T3 and there are no problems. Well I take that back there is a slight issue with the discharge of the pump housing pushing through one of the joints back into the res but a few flakes of pepper remedied that
Pepper?Quote:
Originally Posted by Altspacen
Isn't pepper a car radiator trick? Never thought about using it, or thought about needing to use it, for computer water cooling.
EDIT: I wish BoxGods or Brian would respond to this thread. Eddy and Gabe are always so responsive and on top of things. I guess that's what I've grown to expect.
I just got mine last week and now I see this post :(
I had to use Teflon Tape on one of the outlets for the pump, I could not get it too stop dripping, but that did the trick. Now I just hope is does not crack and leak inside my case everything is brand new.
BoxGods was always very responsive in the past but these guys have been going through a nightmare lately with this product trying to get production up and going again. Not to mention the holidays are upon us. Having said that, they do have a lot to answer for. As others have stated previously the hype surrounding this product was huge but it's turned out to be a bit of a turd due to the cracking issues. Due to the danger involved if one of these does end up cracking it is my opinion that they should exchange all products purchased up to this point as soon as the the new version is ready to go. I doubt that will happen though.Quote:
Originally Posted by meanmoe
In any case, I'm am certain that BoxGods will chime in here and become active again as soon as he has time. He's a good guy and he won't forget about us.
That would still be problematic for those of us who purchased it overseas.Quote:
Originally Posted by century child
At the very least, we should not need to ship the cracked unit back.
I will definitely be looking for any possible alternative to shipping this thing back, because that would end up being a significant portion of the original purchase price.
so, pplz are still buying these things?
WHY?
have you not read any of the threads? or was the original hype just too much for you too handle?
I bought mine right after skinee's review - when there were yet no reports of the cracking issues. Given that I also plumped down for the custom black Al faceplate, I'm sadly regretting that whole decision now.
Same case with me.Quote:
Originally Posted by SoulsCollective
Bought it from reading the review at skinlee.
Didn't have any cracking reports before I got the actual product along with the face plate.
Although in my case, all my PC parts are just lying on the corner of my room here for ages now, waiting for some free time for assembly.
With the cracking report, really should have a footnote in the reviews on this particular problem.
Same here. Right after Skinnee's review. Also sprung for faceplate, replacement plugs, fill port, and some of those ridiculous fittings.Quote:
Originally Posted by washu9
Skinnee should probably update his review. I looked at it again last night.
Performance-wise though, the res can't be beat - as long as you neglect the additional flowrate into the floor of the case.
In the case of water cooling on PCs... reliability is far more important than performance. In most cases, any failures to one or more component of the water cooling most likely result in loss of one or more components (which in almost all cases can not be claimed for warranty).Quote:
Originally Posted by meanmoe
I bought mine before I saw this post or any reports of it cracking/leaking. Of course, not long after ordering, but too long to cancel my order, I saw this post and let out a grand, epic sigh. Nonetheless, mine seems okay so far, so I'm keeping a close eye on it and am making sure it isn't subject to more vibration than necessary.
I put some Felt Tabs on the bottom and sides of it to Stop and Any Vibration and it seems to have worked, I will keep my eye on it too.
I e-mailed BoxGods when this thread first popped up. He said he will post when he has news, as of right now, there must not be any new news.Quote:
Originally Posted by century child
I would wait till after the new year, let the holiday rush claim down, and we will hopefully hear some good news from him.
I understand how frustrating it can be, but they will take care of you. Moving all manufacturing from the other side of the world takes time. I also heard that the new company is trying to clean the imperfections from the mold as well as making the change in materiel.
like i said before in my preview post (#22), it is a specific issue due to the reservoir design. The acrylic is a good a material, many blocks use the acrylic as covers. in my reservoir (TSUNAMI) tipo PEC, the pump MCP655 does not have rubber washer and when i touch the reservoir i can feel it vibrating.:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/6277/tsunami01.th.jpg
EDIT:
In October a buyer warns of the damage. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/93...ml?id=tBGkBMqT ....:eek: "Typhoon III doesn''t leak, It cries!" :eek: . Product warranty is Primochill .... do not understand why BoxGods
I've also heard of acrylic covers cracking on blocks too. Infact, Swiftech also made a switch from acrylic in the GTX295 block.Quote:
Originally Posted by JASSAF
Also, the cracks have been known about for a while, that is the reason for the change in manufacturing companies, and materiel. . :up:
Working acrylic instead of copper: the distance from free edge to the hole can not be equal or similar. I am not a designer, my profession is a doctor: but by logic I have deduced that there must be good wall thickness around the hole .... and in the case of tifffon: not only supports the weight of water, the weight of the pump, the vibration produced and also the strength of the screw: too many variables for a very thin wall.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
by looking at the next picture, there plenty of room for a thicker wall in the place of damage.
http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/2239/primo1.jpg
I have reviewed several forums and the 99% of damage occurs in the same place, in this forum i found a report from kaytaro on 07/26/2009: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=476
deffinetly the cooling liquid is not the problem, the design is! :mad: and primochill as responsable has not made any announcements.:shrug:
.
yeah ha!!!! thats the point !!
thanks JASSAF for explaining that problem
and that what i have on my T3
and it almost past 3 months that Iīm not using my T3
still waiting waiting waiting.................
For those of you who had the res crack: How long did it take? Mine's been going a month now and I have no signs of cracking, but I don't want to count my chickens before they hatch, or so to speak. I've been keeping a very close eye on it. There were no apparently cracks when it arrived (checked it over closely) and it seems to still be okay. It's obvious not EVERYONE who has the res has had it crack (or this thread would be much longer). I'm hoping I might have gotten lucky and got a good one.
So far mine is not cracking and I check it over everyday now to get it before I have a mess. I did however put Felt Tabs on the bottom and sides of it to help Support and Stop Vibrations from cracking it so I guess time will tell it helps, but I know it can't hurt ( Crosses Fingers )
Yeah, I've got mine basically sitting on my DVD drive with the screws just tight enough to stop vibration (used the anti-vibration rubbers it came with).
Ugh, I really wish I had seen this before I bought. It sounds like the issue isn't with EVERY res, but now I'm going to be paranoid forever.
That's the same conclusion I arrived to earlier.Quote:
Originally Posted by JASSAF
Basically some design flaws that put way too much emphasis on good build materials. You need to design it over-spec.
Especially considering many people who bought these overclock their PCs to 80-90 deg C. How warm do you think the water is going to be in several hours?
One note though,
There's several reports on the cracks NOT around the screwholes though.
I'm not too sure what to make of it.
It is possible many got some alcohol / glycol contamination from old components... I'm just not sure contaminants in a 'leftover' quantity and concentration would have such drastic effect.
I'm getting in the 'paranoid' bandwagon here...
So worried that a leak would ruin the rest of my components... that includes an extreme i7 intel proc...
Anyone got any word on the new T3?
sent a message to brian and the last reply he siad is
that they are doing there best to bring it back to the market
so thatīs my response from primochill and it all most past 3 months without nothing
and went back to air and Iīm so so ................. WTF!!!!
mine is cracked on the pump bracket holding screws; one of them obviously is cracked enough to leak air into the reservoir. no cracks on the case mounting screws that i can see.
distilled water only here so it's not coolant.
edit:
as i look at the reservoir from the front, it's the top right hand screw that's cracked. if you look at the thickness of plastic in that corner between the 2 adjacent screw threads (i.e. the pump fixing screw and the case fixing screw) there's less plastic there than the bottom right one. mine has cracked across that corner, possibly because the plastic is thin compared to the one below it?
edit2:
scratch that. they've both cracked into the adjacent case screw threads.