As ever mods void your warranty ;)
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As ever mods void your warranty ;)
I will give it a try and give feedback
Im also doing a cap mod on the 875NEO now that I got a good bios going.
God forbid I get stable voltages at 2+ volts, hehe hehehe hehe bwahahahahahaha
What you need is a HUGE PSU....Or build yourself a battery interface and run it off a huge car battery.
You after cpu or vdimm stabilisation m8?
both
I have a huge PSU
bad boy I picked up has 100A on the 12v line.
is that big enough?
BOAT ANCHOR :DQuote:
Originally posted by FUGGER
both
I have a huge PSU
bad boy I picked up has 100A on the 12v line.
is that big enough?
I had a 60amp for a while to drive a linear amp on a HAM rig. That thing was a pig, i can only imagine a 100amp :eek:
Fugger - regarding stabilisation of voltages.
Couple of things - adding caps and boosting coils will only get you so far. The real trick would be to replace the mosfets.
Secondly - a mosfet is a vreg. You can get adjustable ones. Depending on how much ampage you need there are various models available. If you can find the code off one of the power mosfets and look up the spec sheets then you can get an ampage rating. Find another mosfet with the same characteristics but higher ampage rating and adjustable. Dial in a few more volts. Its a very simple circuit to provide adjustment on a simple linear vreg. They have 3 pins for the most part - vIN, vOUT (also the back is vout, hence the cut off pin on the centre of the mosfets) and vADJ. R1 goes from vOUT to vADJ. R2 is from vADJ to ground.
Another method for adding some more regulation is to simply cut the mosfet legs and wire in an add in circuit with more voltage filtering. Find the vINP for every mosfet. De-solder the pin from the boarde and bend it upwards. Solder a wire from the board to a small piece of stripboard on. Solder the positive side of a 1000uF 16v cap to this wire. From the same point on the cap your wire is attached solder another wire going to the mosfet. On the negative side of the cap add a wire to ground. You can also experiment with adding simple voltage booster circuits. Use a zener diode to open up the circuit. For your 12v line use a zener with a trip point of say 12v and have a simple +0.5v input on the output side of the zener - bingo, 0.5v boost. Put thsi on the input side of the cap and itll smooth it right out - you should end up with a much more steady voltage.
Just throwing ideas around - contact me via pm or ICQ if you want to discuss further m8 :).
PiLsY.
Thanks Pilsy, willing to do what it takes to reduce fluxuations.
I was checking out caps at Frys and noticed most of them had higher voltage rating on the side, 1000uf 60v and higher can I use these?
BT.....is this the mod. that Abit are doing to stabalise the VDDR and VTT readings from the IC7 MAX3 ???
May give it a try if that is all they will do if i rma.
Thanks
first, A Mosfet Is Not a Voltage Regulator.. It is a Transistor( Field effect Transistor).. There are 3 leads on a Mosfet: Gate, Drain And Source..
In the Regulator circuit on Mobo's, It does nothing But switch On and off a determined rate by the signal at the gate Pin..
The actual regulation and control are done by the PWM (Pulse Width Modulator) which on the MAX3 is the Winbond chip in Bigtoe's Pic..
The Winbond Chip does the Voltage Monitoring and Control of the Mosfet's. The Winbond Chip will Monitor the Voltage and produce a Signal to the Mosfets to Turn on and off at a specific Rate to keep the voltage constant. The winbond chip will adjust the signal rate to keep the voltage constant during fluctuations.
adding larger Mosfets will increase the current capability of the rebulator, But will require Mods to the PWM to get the voltage right.
The Cap That Bigtoe is showing appears to be a timing Cap to the Winbond Chip... I might have to try this..
The Caps from Fry's are No good for Most Regulators. The Caps need to be what is Called Low ESR for best performance and fry's Only sells Standard Type Caps.. Because of the High Frequencies switching Regulators use, High Quality Caps become important..
fugger, just outta interest, whats your thoughts on the msi 875. I had taht first, wen to max 3(was gonna sell, forgot), so have both and tried a 865asus right now jsut to play about. Anyway, i seem to recall having a lotta trouble getting ram to run anything but spd timings, and some other oddities with the board. I don't have a lotta spare time, and wanna sell one and run the other in a vapo rig for now. ASus i dislike, no pat above stock, modded bios only 1:1, etc, etc. Anwyay, is the msi as good as the max 3 clock for clock on newer bios's? you found mem adjusting fine? Any help really.
Hag6br - I was trying to keep things simple :). As I said search by code off the relevant mosfet and replace with the next model up.
Mosfets regulate voltage by switching on and off a set frequency - ergo in the most simplistic terms they are vregs. As you said they switch on and off to keep the current constant :). I suppose modulate voltage would be a more exact term, but hey if I give everything away I wont be needed anymore ;). To pretty much everyone here it doesnt matter if a mosfet is a resistor or a kitten - as long as they know its function and how that function can be improved thats all that matters.
As to alterations at the PWM, I was under the impression that as long as you replaced a mosfet with merely a higher ampage capable model that no additional work would be required on timing. Im self taught as far as electronics are concerned, so there are some things I dont know, and some things I think I know that arent strictly speaking correct :). We're all here to learn afterall.
As for the caps at frys - theyre no good at all. You need to be shopping at RS or some other pure electronic wholesaler to get the right ones. I tend to use Audio Grade caps where possible, but failing that most electrlytic aluminium low ESR caps will do. You dont want 60v caps though. You want to pick the cap as close to the voltage being supplied as possible, but higher than it. For example, a 3.3v supply would have 4v caps, 5v supply 6v caps and 12v supply 16v caps. The voltage rating is how much they can deliver if needed and the capacitance is how much they can store. Higher capacitance means they can deliver current for longer, but conversely they also take longer to charge. Its a fine art balancing capacitance until you receive the optimum smoothing effect. Multiple low capacitance models in parallel would likely be better. I wouldnt recommend going much above 2200uF, and never above 3600uF. The extra charge time will mean a large voltage dip and spike on power up as the caps charge.
Hag6br - you seem like a knowledgable chap - have you any idea where the vref is supplied from on the IC7? If you check with a mm youll find that vref does some very weird things as voltage is applied. It should be strictly 1/2 of vdd(q) +-0.005v, but its out by a long long way.
Cheers,
PiLsY.
[EDIT] Drunkenmaster - pm me if you want to know how to get PAT enabled above 200fsb on that asus 865 board :).
I have not found anything on the Vref Voltage yet on the IC7. I am still trying to find a data sheet on the Winbond chip used on the ic7 but have had no luck.
The only thing I have found on Vref is in Intel's Design Guides for the 875P chipset. By Them they reccomend using A resister divider network at the NB and also at the Dimms. But, I cannot find these dividers on the IC7 Max3, so they did it differently.
Here is a link to the Intel Design Guide:
http://www.intel.com/design/chipsets...nex/252527.htm
I would like to get the Vdimm Stabilized on the IC7 Max 3 as I can tell that this Board is capable of some Great overclocking except for this problem.
As for Mosfets, Higher Power Mosfets require A slightly Higher voltage to switch at the Gate of the mosfet and sometimes require some mods to work correctly. But most new PWM Modulators now directly connect to the Mosfet, so it is not as critical as it used to be.
The PWM Timing Caps are probably the most critical item. If these change Value, All types of Wierd things happen (learned this from working on TV's) such as Way High Voltages, fluctuating Voltages, Etc..
I believe VTT is on pin #7 of that winbond chip. Someone correct me if i'm wrong. The left side of MC50 reads 1/2 of VDD also. Vref tracks exactly 1/2 of VDD and uses a resistor divider network at bottom left of dimm 3. Right above the big cap. But that's ONLY Vref on pin 1 of ddr. If only VTT and CK0 and it's sister and CK2 and it's sister and various other ddr pins which we'll call VTT (although it really isn't) tracked to 1/2 of VDD we'd be alright. Since the Japaneese or Chineese (i forget who) started theese IC7 mods we've come along way. They have a mod for VTT and it's been around a long time. I don't really feel like cutting a trace on my 4th IC7 (2nd MAX3). I can get 247 cas2-2-2-5 out of my Corsair pc3500. Strange but my Mushy 3200 used to be my best ddr. This MAX3 i currently use just doesn't seem to like it. May be that VTT crap F knows. I guess if i get bored i'll probably end up modding VTT. :D
Working on an alternative mod for VTT atm actually. It's not propper, but may help a bit and requires no cutting or soldering. I'm not hopeful that will work. Hmm now that i think about it i got another alternative i may try this weekend if this one tonight fails. Does require soldering. But at least you don't have to cut traces. Hmm since i got 2 dead IC7's and they are the same as a MAX3 i'll use em for trials. 1 of em actually still runs. But only at 1/2 cpu speed and you can't adjust anything. Condensation fried a capacitor on the northy substrate. I wish i could solder good enough to replace that cap. That was my best board. ARG i'll see wtf happens :rolleyes:
I firmly believe we can sort this boards problems out.I have a feeling VDD and Vref will need to be sorted properly and we will then submit our findings to Abit...the board will then become a god!!
lets keep the ball rolling on this one, the iron is hot and ready :), i just need instructions on what to do :)
i read in the abit forums that there is a new IC7-MAX3 v1.1 out that fixes the fluctuation isssues...
I finally got my r404 cooler from herefishy and hooked it up to my ic7max3/3.0c and when ever i start upping the volts i get blue screens everytime.. Its been frustrating the heck out of me... Then i noticed the ddr voltage, set at 2.9v, was fluctuating between 2.72v and 2.98v:confused:
It seems that everything on the board is fixed now, including the voltage flucuations, VTT and ECN fix. Thread started here:
HERE is the link....
Anyone know where i can pick up a v1.1????? Tried newegg and they wont guarantee it, zipzoomfly is supposed to call me back and let me know if they have any...
Catch22 - if you measure Vref from within pin1 on a dimm slot youll find a different story altogether :). As vdimm is raised via bios vref goes horribly wrong. At 2.9v it resets to 1.25v and starts tracking over again. 2.5 to 2.8v is perfect, 2.9v to 3.2v vref starts again as if from 2.5v.
You have lots of voltages with ddr - vref (1:2) (internal io voltage), vtt (1:2) (internal io voltage termination), vdd (1:1) (external io voltage), vddq (1:1) (external referance io voltage), vdds (1:1) (no idea!) and then vTT for the external voltage too (1:1). All these voltages need to track perfectly at the appropriate setting, which they dont by a long shot.
Forgive me if the explanation of what does what is not totally accurate - its what ive gleaned from a samsung pdf :).
PiLsY.
Does anybody know where I can get the Data sheet for that Blasted WinBond Chip on the IC7 Max3?
Kind of hard to figure out a Fix without any Data...
OK here's the deal on my mobo and it may not be the same on yours. I use a multimeter and not hardware monitor. If i set vdd to 3.2 i check vdd at ddr pins and i get say 3.26 Then i check Vref at pin 1 of ddr and i get exactly 1/2 of that like 1.63 Vref is not being sent from the winbond chip and it's not being sent from the 2 upper right mosfets. A resistor divider network located between dimm 2 and 3 bottom right corner check the vdd after vdd mosfets but before it goes to ddr and from there the signal is divided in half with 2 resisters. example to get exactly 1/2 would be a 500 ohm and a 1k ohm resistor. Although i think they might be a 100 ohm and 50 ohm resistor. Now if your vdd fluctuates like mad then Vref will fluctuate like mad as well.Quote:
Originally posted by PiLsY
Catch22 - if you measure Vref from within pin1 on a dimm slot youll find a different story altogether :). As vdimm is raised via bios vref goes horribly wrong. At 2.9v it resets to 1.25v and starts tracking over again. 2.5 to 2.8v is perfect, 2.9v to 3.2v vref starts again as if from 2.5v.
You have lots of voltages with ddr - vref (1:2) (internal io voltage), vtt (1:2) (internal io voltage termination), vdd (1:1) (external io voltage), vddq (1:1) (external referance io voltage), vdds (1:1) (no idea!) and then vTT for the external voltage too (1:1). All these voltages need to track perfectly at the appropriate setting, which they dont by a long shot.
Forgive me if the explanation of what does what is not totally accurate - its what ive gleaned from a samsung pdf :).
PiLsY.
All the other 20+ pins that we'll cal VTT use the upper 2 mosfets and are being controlled by the winbond chip. Problem is the winbond chip only regulates VDD up to 2.80 max So max you can ever get VTT is 1/2 of that 1.4 volts. On the max 3 they are basically doing the same mod we did to increase vdd. They are tricking the winbond chip. If i set vdd to 3.2 volts in the bios and i check R50 on the upper side i get 3.26 but on the bottom side i get 2.80. Winbond chip thinks VDD is at 2.8 so regulates VTT to 1/2 of 2.80 which is 1.40 volts. Only fix i can find so far is to cut a trace and preferably NOT between MC50 and pin 7 of the winbond chip. But cut a trace somewhere else. Then solder a wire from left side of MC50 to one of the mosfets located in the upper corner. But also using a resistor divider network to properly control the exact voltage to 1/2 of actuall vdd. Cutting traces as we speak looking for a good place.
OK i found the correct place to cut the trace. It's on the backside of the mobo. It differs from the Japaneese way of doing it. In that my way will show voltage correctly even in the bios. All i gotta do now is try it and see what value resistor i need to use. It will go from the left side of MC50 to upper right mosfet of mobo.
good job Catch22, now all you need to do after finishing this is send your resume to aBit so they can hire you and fire all the other guys!
HAHAHAHA Hell i better make sure it works first. DOH!!!!Quote:
Originally posted by axiom
good job Catch22, now all you need to do after finishing this is send your resume to aBit so they can hire you and fire all the other guys!
great work CATCH22ATPLAY!
Good luck...
Catch22, any word on your mod yet? Is it working, did you finish it?
Finished? er yes and no. Yes in that it works fine. No in that i'm gonna change it a bit later on. But here it is. The first 4 pics basically show you where to cut the trace. Look at my arrow and you will see a trace by itself that goes up and to the right. Cut that one. Then ohm out from bottom leg of upper right mosfet on mobo to left side of MC50. It was 1 ohm and should be reading say 5 mega ohms now. I then solder a 500 ohm vario set at 320 ohms to left side of MC50 and bottom leg of mosfet located in upper right corner. Then i used a second vario connected to my first. Connect it to the first Varios side that connected to MC50. Then connect other side of second vario to ground. I used a 2k ohm vario and had it set to 2k ohms for a 0.20 increase in VTT. I had my bios set at 2.80 I increased VDD to 3.2 with my VDD mod. The VTT mod came to 1.60 with the 500 and 2k ohm resistors. Sorry about the webcam. I hope this helps. Winbond will read volts as 1.40 btw. So use a multimeter on upper mosfets to check voltage.
Volt modded the CATCH22 way
http://pages.prodigy.net/catch22atplay/vmod1.jpg
http://pages.prodigy.net/catch22atplay/vmod2.jpg
http://pages.prodigy.net/catch22atplay/vmod3.jpg
http://pages.prodigy.net/catch22atplay/vmod4.jpg
http://pages.prodigy.net/catch22atplay/vmod5.jpg
http://pages.prodigy.net/catch22atplay/vmod6.jpg
http://pages.prodigy.net/catch22atplay/ic7max3.jpg
I removed MC50 completely. Also if you remove MC64 it really helps VDD mod a lot. I was able to increase VDD and VTT to 3.4 and 1.7 with theese mods on my non max3. It had no problems booting at all. Luck dudes and i'm ready for questions. Also did the mod on my max3.
this is great! However, I can hardly tell what is in the pics. Maybe someone can help you take pics of your board. Also, if you're changing it around, then I think I will wait till you're done your final design. But man, that is some awesome results. Keep it up!
Thanks and like i said my webcam just doesn't cut it. I've tried quite a few digicams at fryes and compusa. But they all seems to suck at closeups. I can however get some batteries and use this webcam to take picks remontely. It'll do higher res that way. But then i don't have an LCD on it and i won't be able to tell if the lighting is good or not. I'd probably just be wasting my time. Gonna take someone else with a better cam who can understand what i'm saying and do the mod and take pics. I don't think i'll be spending 2G on a decent digi cam. Hm wonder if i can get ABIT to send me one just to shut me up? :)
You gotta use macro mode when shooting that close, man... ;)Quote:
Originally posted by CATCH22ATPLAY
Thanks and like i said my webcam just doesn't cut it. I've tried quite a few digicams at fryes and compusa. But they all seems to suck at closeups. I can however get some batteries and use this webcam to take picks remontely. It'll do higher res that way. But then i don't have an LCD on it and i won't be able to tell if the lighting is good or not. I'd probably just be wasting my time. Gonna take someone else with a better cam who can understand what i'm saying and do the mod and take pics. I don't think i'll be spending 2G on a decent digi cam. Hm wonder if i can get ABIT to send me one just to shut me up? :)
But anyway, good work! Let's hope this can get to Abit so the rest of us don't have to void our warranties.
Er macro? I didn't see an option for that. Hmm lemme check it out. And yes i'd rather have ABIT take care of it too. Just because i figured out how to do it on my semi dead IC7 doesn't mean i will do it to my max3.
CATCH22ATPLAY
Let me know when you get this mod finalised and i will do it to my Max3.I will also then take pics for you of the mod finished.
For now what pics do you want of the board as i could take them and link to them so you can photoshop them up with what to cut/change etc?
have a look here and see if any of these pics help you
Take a pic of the same areas i was showing. The trace on backside of mobo. The upper right mosfets. The area around the winbond chip especially MC50. But also R50 and MC64 so i can show both VDD and VTT at once. The closer the better for all pics. But also some farther away shots like my last ones would help too. Thanks for the offering too. Can't abit figure this stuff out? Geez it isn't that damn hard. I may have to do some more testing because my math didn't seem to work correctly for some reason. It should look like this. First set VDD to 2.80 in the BIOS.
V out = V in * [R2/(R1+R2)] then get difference
where R1 = the fixed resistor of 500 ohms
where R2 = the Vario which i've set at 2,500 ohms
math should look like this
V out = 1.4 * [2500/(500+2500)]
V out = 1.17 get difference
difference = 1.40 - 1.17 = 0.23 volts
Now using that equation we see that VTT has dropped to 1.17 only to the windond chip. Winbond will try to correct it. It dropped 0.23 volts. So winbond will increase it 0.23 volts. Final reading should be 1.40 at the winbond chip and 1.63 real volts at the mosfets. AN alternate way to do it is like this.
V out = V in * {1+[R1/(R1+R2)]}
so it would look like this
V out = 1.4 * {1+[500/(500+2500)]}
V out = 1.63
AH i think i like the second way better :) Although the first is more correct to me anyways. Mainly because i know we're tricking the winbond chip by making it believe it's geting less volts. Also because the math didn't work and it should i think i know what happened. I'll check into it :)
I added a few more pics to work from.if I can i will try and clean the back of the board and get a high res scan of it.The pic will be huge though
If all goes well i really hope Abit actually implements this fix.
I got some bad news though. Abit added components to the VDD side. So for us overclockers my mod works fine for if you set VDD to 2.90 volts or above. I can only make VTT worse for 2.80 and below. Here's what i get when i take reading from my non modded Ic7MAX3
Bios settings--WinbondVdd--ActualVDD--WinbondVTT--ActualVTT
---3.2v-------------2.827-----------3.279--------1.409----------1.412
---3.1v-------------2.726-----------3.164--------1.359----------1.362
---3.0v-------------2.662-----------3.106--------1.334----------1.337
---2.90-------------2.575-----------2.988--------1.283----------1.286
---2.80-------------2.826-----------2.837--------1.409----------1.413
---2.70-------------2.727-----------2.740--------1.359----------1.363
---2.65-------------2.678-----------2.690--------1.334----------1.338
---2.60-------------2.628-----------2.640--------1.309----------1.313
---2.55-------------2.577-----------2.589--------1.283----------1.288
---2.50-------------2.527-----------2.538--------1.259----------1.262
No if i use say a 2500 ohm and 500 ohms resistor and i do the math it would look like this.
where R1 = the fixed resistor of 500 ohms
where R2 = the Vario which i've set at 2,500 ohms
V out = WinbondVTT * {1+[R1/(R1+R2)]}
so it would look like this
V out = WinbondVtt * {1+[500/(500+2500)]}
V out = ActualVTT
So the new table would look like this using the 500 ohm and 2500 ohm resistors.
Bios settings--WinbondVdd--ActualVDD--WinbondVTT--ActualVTT
---3.2v-------------2.827-----------3.279--------1.409----------1.644
---3.1v-------------2.726-----------3.164--------1.359----------1.586
---3.0v-------------2.662-----------3.106--------1.334----------1.556
---2.90-------------2.575-----------2.988--------1.283----------1.497
---2.80-------------2.826-----------2.837--------1.409----------1.644
---2.70-------------2.727-----------2.740--------1.359----------1.586
---2.65-------------2.678-----------2.690--------1.334----------1.556
---2.60-------------2.628-----------2.640--------1.309----------1.527
---2.55-------------2.577-----------2.589--------1.283----------1.497
---2.50-------------2.527-----------2.538--------1.259----------1.469
So any setting 2.80 or below is now messed up. However all settings 2.90 and above track perfectly. A comprimise could be reached however. More like splitting the difference. Let's try some different values here.
R1 = the fixed resistor of 500 ohms
R2 = the 5k Vario which i've set at 5,000 ohms
V out = WinbondVTT * {1+[R1/(R1+R2)]}
so it would look like this
V out = WinbondVtt * {1+[500/(500+5,000)]}
V out = ActualVTT
Bios settings--WinbondVdd--ActualVDD--WinbondVTT--ActualVTT
---3.2v-------------2.827-----------3.279--------1.409----------1.537
---3.1v-------------2.726-----------3.164--------1.359----------1.483
---3.0v-------------2.662-----------3.106--------1.334----------1.455
---2.90-------------2.575-----------2.988--------1.283----------1.400
---2.80-------------2.826-----------2.837--------1.409----------1.537
---2.70-------------2.727-----------2.740--------1.359----------1.483
---2.65-------------2.678-----------2.690--------1.334----------1.455
---2.60-------------2.628-----------2.640--------1.309----------1.428
---2.55-------------2.577-----------2.589--------1.283----------1.400
---2.50-------------2.527-----------2.538--------1.259----------1.373
Geez that looks almost as bad as ABit's original way of doing it. I run at 2.90 VDD and above. So i'll be using the 500 ohm and 2,500 ohm resistors. VTT can however be fixed correctly. But it will take a lot more than just 2 resistors to make it perfect at all voltages. I can actually probably make it track perfect using 4 resistors. But i've fried enough hardware for a while.
I might have to try all this..i can just imagine what i could do with a fixed VDD..this is what a acheived just after the volt modd..:>)
http://home.comcast.net/~xgwar/read-outs_after_modd.jpg
not bad not bad at all
im probably gonna have to do these mods once i get some ram good enough to need em. im gettin mushkin black level II
WOW that's pretty damn good. Gwar what type of ram dude? It pretty much ties my A-data at 3-4-4-8 at 290 6833/6743. It runs a faster timings. But doesn't help enough to warrant stability issues. My best was FSB@305 and my mushy pc3200L2 black in 5/4 mode cas2-2-2-5 7xxx/7xxx. But the mushy was on my first IC7 non max3. The A-DATA was on my MAX3. My mushy doesn't like my MAX3 at all. :(
OK screw it i'm going offline now and gonna mod this MAX3 for:
VDD=3.28
VTT=1.64
My goal is 260 1/1 with my corsair pc3500 ver1.1 bh-5 sticks cas 2-2-2-5. Need that for my 3.2 benching. But i'll try the mushy again and see what's up.
Thanks Catch..:) i love this new power im getting now after the volt cap was removed, i can now run with alot lower specs on my adata pc4000.."NEW" high..!!
http://home.comcast.net/~xgwar/finall_results11.JPG
OK so i'm not the only one with A-DATA. I like the stuff. BTW try 3-4-4-8. It's more stable and sandra bench only drops maybe 50 points. Some people think score may get wores lowering to 2.5-3-3-7. But i think they're wrong. It just doesn't help much.
Ok my mushy is working in my max3 now. It would only do 226-228 on this mobo. It used to do 247 on my non max3. After doing the VTT mod it's running at 252 cas2-2-2-5 streetracer cpc enabled. 100% stable speed as i'm typing this is 250 cas2-2-2-5 F1 cpc disabled.
ok gonna try this next :)
VDD=3.4
VTT=1.70
Then this :)
VDD=3.5
VTT=1.75
er then this haha :)
VDD=3.6
VTT=1.8
Mushy don't die on me please. Oh i removed MC64 and added a 5k ohm resistor from bottom of where MC64 was to ground via that 5k ohm resistor. Dunno what max volts this mobo can put out. But i'm willing to try A LOT!!!
BigToe i'll work on those pics when i got time. I'm good at hardware. But software and Photoshop are beyond me. But i can draw lines and arrows etc etc er sort of. hehe
OK Mushy pc3200L2black is up a bit more after increasing VDD with my VDD mod and VTT with my VTT mod.
258cas2-2-2-5 auto cpc disabled
251cas2-2-2-5 Street racer cpc enabled and damn stable now too
Can't wait for VTT mod and VMOD to be finalized and released to "public" so that I can improve my memory performance which craps out at 260fsb (1:1) on IC7, ocz 4200el. I'm assuming that a 3.2V with a nice 1.6V VTT will let it o/c reasonabliy higher =)
woohoo the results are looking nice.
keep up the good work
BTW when do you think the mod will be finalized
Actually i thought the mod was finalised. But you're right it really isn't. Like i said earlier i'm not photoshop user. So it may take me abit to draw on BigToe's pics. But i will do it.
OK just to keep a few people salivating here's a quick pic with mushy and fsb at 251 cas2-2-2-5 street racer cpc enabled enjoy
http://pages.prodigy.net/catch22atplay/251.jpg
BTW i updated pics etc on page 1 for VDD/VTT mod :)
Have you removed MC64 instead of R50 for the VDDR mod?Quote:
Also if you remove MC64 it really helps VDD mod a lot
Hm i guess i didn't update written instructions well enough. Yes i removed MC64 and MC50 both. The max3 has a 700 ohm resistor for R50. That stays. If you want to increase VDD use a 5k ohm vario in the place of MC64 or bottom of MC64 to ground. Set the vario at 5k to start.
Im gonna be doin this mod tommorow and wanted to clear a few things up for myself if you dont mind. The only mod necessary for the vtt is the cutting of the trace, bringing a wire from the bottom leg of the mosfet inline with a 500 0hm pot and then soldered to the mc 50? Your mod icludes besides the removing of the mc64 to increas vdd, you include a mod to get even more voltage out of the vdd? Thanks for the mod i lost my other account here, been hangin for a while. I really appreciate the work you put into this mod, thanks, and thanks for the help
Just make sure you set the 500 ohm pot to under 390 ohms. 320 ohms was close to perfect for me. 390 ohms or higher and it may not boot and volts might freak out a bit. Oh and don't forget to add the 2k ohm pot from first resistors MC50 side to ground. Set it at 2k ohms.
ok i think im clear, or not. So in addition to the 500 ohm pot on mc50, you also need a 2k ohm pot from the same pad(on the pot) that you soldered the 500 ohm pot, ran to ground?
so it goes - left leg on mc50 soldered to 500 ohm pot, with the other lead going to the upper right mosfet. 2k ohm pot wired to the 500 ohm pot where the mc50 lead is soldered, and the other end to ground? lmk if this is right, very nice work indeed. ill post some screenies when my system is done, all my hardware cept cpu is coming today.
would it be possible for me to use smd grabbers to do this mod?
if so what size do you think would work best
Boyne7 er no to smd grabbers dude.
impu|se correct. Alternate way is to use 1 vario. Try a 1k vario 20-25 turn cerment pot. set resistance between middle pin and one of the outer pins to 200 ohms. Connect middle pin to left pad of mc 50 after removing mc50. Connect the pin you set for 200 ohms to mosfet located upper right corner of mobo. The lower leg of that mosfet. Connect other pin to ground. Pic kinda shows what i mean. Was running at 254 for the last few hours but it finally crashed. Testing 253 cas2-2-2-5 cpc enabled and fastest gat/pat er whatever it's called.
Catch can you correct me if I'm wrong. I'm trying to put this all together, and I'm kinda confused with all the revisions.
Do you remove MC50 or leave it and solder to it?
1. remove resistor mc64
2. cut the trace on the back of mobo
3. remove mc50 or leave mc50??????????
4.Alternate way is to use 1 vario. Try a 1k vario 20-25 turn cerment pot. set resistance between middle pin and one of the outer pins to 200 ohms. Connect middle pin to left pad of mc 50 after removing mc50. Connect the pin you set for 200 ohms to mosfet located upper right corner of mobo. The lower leg of that mosfet. Connect other pin to ground. Pic kinda shows what i mean.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postid=298638
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postid=275598
http://pages.prodigy.net/catch22atplay/vmod3.jpg
Yeah we're a little bit confused :)
Which method is the best for the VTT alteration ?
Help us not to fry our mobos :toast:
I did it this way:
cut the trace on the backside like on catch22's pic.
solder 1k VR middle pin to MC50 upper side, solder one of the side pins of the VR to Vtt mosfet pin (left pin), solder the third VR pin to GND. Set the VR value to 0ohms between MC50 and Vtt mosfet pin (0hms between the VR middle pin and the VR pin u soldered to Vtt mosfet). Start increasing the resistance between MC50 and Vtt mosfet pin and measure the Vtt from Mosfet leg with multimeter.
This is on IC7 and BIOS doesn't seem to read the Vtt voltage changes made by the mod.
I stabilized mine at 247 1:1 2-2-2-5 with the mod (Vdimm 3.3V, Vtt 1.65V). Without the mod it would just reboot and give bluescreens for me even at 240.
time to imporve NB cooling and increase some other volts now. Also added another capacitor right below AGP slot (the cap there was running DAMN HOT!)
Wonder if I should remove the MC50 and MC64? My Vdimm doesn't seem to flucuate too much thou (0.02V or so).
Szymek, you killed IC7 wth Vnorth mod? how did that happen? what went wrong?
Hello macci I feel like crazy cause you said my name :banana:Quote:
Originally posted by macci
I did it this way:
cut the trace on the backside like on catch22's pic.
solder 1k VR middle pin to MC50 upper side, solder one of the side pins of the VR to Vtt mosfet pin (left pin), solder the third VR pin to GND. Set the VR value to 0ohms between MC50 and Vtt mosfet pin (0hms between the VR middle pin and the VR pin u soldered to Vtt mosfet). Start increasing the resistance between MC50 and Vtt mosfet pin and measure the Vtt from Mosfet leg with multimeter.
This is on IC7 and BIOS doesn't seem to read the Vtt voltage changes made by the mod.
I stabilized mine at 247 1:1 2-2-2-5 with the mod (Vdimm 3.3V, Vtt 1.65V). Without the mod it would just reboot and give bluescreens for me even at 240.
time to imporve NB cooling and increase some other volts now. Also added another capacitor right below AGP slot (the cap there was running DAMN HOT!)
Wonder if I should remove the MC50 and MC64? My Vdimm doesn't seem to flucuate too much thou (0.02V or so).
Szymek, you killed IC7 wth Vnorth mod? how did that happen? what went wrong?
kiddin' :)
I killed my IC7 cause I had changed Vnorth voltage 'on the fly' like I do on my modded R9800...
The other thing is that I wasn't sure what direction my VR was supposed to turn to....
Maybe I reached MAX in my VR and the turned and turned... maybe I cracked something inside the VR, then caused open circuit in it and... psssstt OH SMELLS GOOD :D
hehhe ok, better be careful with that one then :D
can pass SuperPi 1M at 255 1:1 now on IC7 with HyperX PC3000 @2-2-2-6
Excellent macci. Now do my northy mod as well. I run it at 1.625. ANything above that is messed up. I got my corsair pc3500v1.1 up to 258 cas2-2-2-5 turbo cpc enabled on my non max 3. Seems 255 is 100% stable though. I've been running it at that speed for the last few days now. Here's the voltage required to do that. Macci if your voltages are stable i say leave MC50 and MC64 alone dude. BTW sandra unbuffered was 3519/3605 :D
Let's see some screenies dudes, upload attachments etc. :)
VDD=3.5
VTT=1.775
3.3V line set to 3.80
Vnorth=1.625
nice results and desktop design :toast:Quote:
Originally posted by CATCH22ATPLAY
Excellent macci. Now do my northy mod as well. I run it at 1.625. ANything above that is messed up. I got my corsair pc3500v1.1 up to 258 cas2-2-2-5 turbo on my non max 3. Seems 255 is 100% stable though. I've been running it at that speed for the last few days now. Here's the voltage required to do that. Macci if your voltages are stable i say leave MC50 and MC64 alone dude. BTW sandra unbuffered was 3519/3605 :D
Let's see some screenies dudes, upload attachments etc. :)
VDD=3.5
VTT=1.775
3.3V line set to 3.80
Vnorth=1.625
LOL i know dude. My desktop is always like that. Hard to believe i can get a top 10 3dmark score any day of the week. I format hdd after maybe 10 different mobos. Screw tweaking windows. It's a waste of time. But as you can see i don't organise things too well.
Macci i bought some of that HyperX pc3000 back when you said it was pretty good stuff. I've noticed that it scores better than any memory out there. I haven't been able to get mine past 245 though. I didn't even try 2-2-2-6 i don't believe. Was that the trick here. Also i pulled the heat spreader off and the chips say Kingston on mine. Binned Sammy pc2700 ddr you think? See if we have the same stuff. here's my numbers off the sticks.
KHX3000/256
9905200-017.A00
1168031-2.5V
They aren't the value ram. I can get the value ram real cheap here. Lemme know what's you got dude. I may try some out if they can beat my score above or clock higher. Ta my friend.
Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night. :D
ps santa left me a new Fluke and amp probe :toast:
I need some help here with the Max3 guys. I've read the IC7 Mem Mod thread & have successfully doen the mem mod but am a bit hesitant on doing the same on my Max3.
I want/need more vDimm to play with on my Max3. The area around the Max3/-G looks very similar except the Max3 has 1 more resistor(?) just above the R50 resistor. Can my Max3 be vmem modded in the same way as my -G?
I'm planning on doing all these mods for my IC7-G/Max3. Vmem, VTT, as well as doing all the PSU vio mods as well.
TIA guys
Minnyboy for VDD mod of a max3 leave R50 alone. Remove MC64 and in it's place stick a 2k ohm vario resistor. Set it at 2k ohm. Only 2 pins of the vario are required. Adjust the 2k ohm to raise VDD to 3.2+ If you set that 2k ohm resistor at 2k ohm and have bios at 3.2v you'll get about 3.45+ volts to VDD. Easiest mod of them all. I would suggest setting your bios at 2.8v before mod though :D
Nice clocks Catch! :)
I tried Vnorth (from 1.59 up to 1.65V) and also had Vagp up to 1.9V but still can't pass Superpi 1M higher than 258.3 - and the thing did that speed only once on the first boot when everything was nice and cold (used open window mod hehhe). Normally max speed is 257 1:1
Does you HyperX have two little dots on each chip? Its most likely remarked BH5 or BH6. I dont think 2700 sammy would ever run 2-2-2 timings at 240+
I haven't taken the spreader off my HyperX but it says this on the sticker:
KHX3000/256
9905192-019.A00
1213206-2.5V
Single sided modules.
CATCH22ATPPLAY,
Thanks for that invaluable info.
Now all I gotta do is raise my Max3 from the dead.
Actually asking for another member. Almost stuffed his board up by saying that the IC7 & Max3 VDD/Vmem mods were the same.
Macci i just took the spreaders off. It says
Kingston
V56471
0306 P01
D328DW-50
There is a DOT left and right of V56471. So yes 2 DOTS.
The numbers on our sticks look almost the same. But are you sure it's single sided? Mine are dual sided with 4 chips on each side. That's supposed to run cooler that way according to some manufacturers. There is not a chip directly opposite a chip. They are staggered. Sandra unbuffered with the kingston score so well i'll use them when i run below 250mhz. Macci my V agp is actually set at 1.55 in the bios. I haven't raised it for any of my high ddr benches after my vdd/vtt/vnorth mods. I hear a lot of people saying it helps quite a lot. I can raise it to 1.85v or whatever i want as needed. So is yours the same in that raisng Vagp helps quite a bit?
Minnyboy ta dude. I'm here to help. Well the mods are close to the same in some ways. But are not the same in others. You may be able to raise your max3 from the dead. My non max3 was dead and i'm currently typing on it with mods and volts as above. I was just using this semi dead one to first come up with a better way of modding vtt. Quite amazed when it came back to life. So you may have a shot at raising yours from the dead too. At least i hope so.
Be on the look out for a change in volt mods. I got some other ways of doing it which may prove even more stable. If you see a bench from me with ddr@260+ cas2-2-2-5 turbo cpc enabled you'll know i succeeded. I've already run my corsair at 260+ with semi relaxed timings. But that was an old goal i said and accomplished. Now is time to raise or set a new goal.
Hey and btw what's the best way to run unbuffered test. I deselect all options. What are you supposed to do or what does everyone else do? My results seem lame compared to a lot of peoples.
Hmm and nobody noticed/commented on my MO stepping P4 in my pic. :D
Erhm.. 1.85V ;)Quote:
Originally posted by CATCH22ATPLAY
Hey and btw what's the best way to run unbuffered test. I deselect all options. What are you supposed to do or what does everyone else do? My results seem lame compared to a lot of peoples.
Hmm and nobody noticed/commented on my MO stepping P4 in my pic. :D
CATCH22ATPLAY,
I once had an "MO" stepping 2.4 that did 285fsb@1.6v on WC. Pity I broke a pin on the sucka. Very good OCers those "MO" 2.4c.
Might try to "raise it from the dead as the pin that's broken is on the outer edge.
Has anyone ever tried soldering a pin back on a CPU? Got a few dead CPU's due to broken pins that I could snip off to raise one from the dead.
have you just tried using it without the pin?
sometimes the cpu will still work without the some pins.
my friend broke a pin off his 2.0a and it still worked fine
Hmm yes this stepping 5 M0 is a chip with 2mb L3 cache disabled. My 2.8 runs just like any other 2.8 i've even owned. It needs and likes a lot of voltage. I'm still running it with the stock Intel heatsink/fan and it hits 57C. But i've managed to get it to 290FSB with 1.90 volts with the stock heatsink/fan and never bothered lowering the voltage. I think it may have some potential here. I'll install my shiny new DD RBX WB and turn the shiny new chiller on as well and see wtf happens. If it kicks arse i'll run my a/c on it maybe.
I'd try running that P4 with a broke pin as well. Trying to solder a pin back on is damn near impossible. I've tried it and others as well.
Nah, I haven't tried using it without the pin. Might give it a shot when I have spare time.
I tried a 2.6 with a bent pin & it was giving me reboots whenever I was running CPU/Graphics intensive stuff. I put the blame on the VC (9800XT that shorted something under its HSF on the first install).
Only when changing from a faulty Vapo to a replacement Vapo did I realise that the pin had bent & then "fell" off when trying to straighten it.
Altogether different spots where the pins broke so I may as well give it a shot.
Without the vdimm mod, should you just simply remove the mc64, this is my understanding from bigtoes first post?
EnineM,
I was thinking about giving the Max3 some more volts. Past 3.2v. I'd be doing the VTT stabilisation first of course.
That's if & when I get around to RMAing my dead Max3 that is:(
Ok thats winbond stuff then. MOst likely BH5.Quote:
There is a DOT left and right of V56471. So yes 2 DOTS.
Yup 8 chips per side. I've seen HyperX with 4chips per side too. Thats most likely the most common config.Quote:
But are you sure it's single sided?
Vagp and Vnorth don't seem to help at all on this one. On P4C800 the Vagp seems to be important. BIOS set to 1.5V will lock up already at 253 1:1, at 1.8V it will pass superpi 1m at 260 1:1 2-2-2-5-TurboQuote:
So is yours the same in that raisng Vagp helps quite a bit?
Ok, what happens if I *JUST* remove mc64? will it help at all?
So I could use say a 5k, set at maybe 2.5k and ease it down to get to maybe 3.3V rather than starting off the bat with a 3.45V max?Quote:
CATCH22ATPLAY:
Minnyboy for VDD mod of a max3 leave R50 alone. Remove MC64 and in it's place stick a 2k ohm vario resistor. Set it at 2k ohm. Only 2 pins of the vario are required. Adjust the 2k ohm to raise VDD to 3.2+ If you set that 2k ohm resistor at 2k ohm and have bios at 3.2v you'll get about 3.45+ volts to VDD. Easiest mod of them all. I would suggest setting your bios at 2.8v before mod though
Yup :) Oh and i had some slight issues with my volt mods. Mainly VTT went wack on me. I ended up replaces the 1k ohm vario with the same. But i decided to add a 1/8 watt to my varios for VDD and VTT. Both were 50 ohms and i added them to the ground side of pin in series. Anyways it seems to be working again and i just managed to raise my corsairs pc3500 max to 260 cas2-2-2-5 Turbo cpc enabled hehe
Interesting but i tried running 1 stick of hyperX pc3000 at a time to see what max they could do with streetracer enabled. 1 did 264 and the other 256. So swapped that slow sucker at the store for another stick and tried that one by itself and it ran at 264 also. Then tried em in dual channel with the following settings
255mhz / 260mhz
2 / 2
5 / 5
2 / 2
2 / 2
streetracer/turbo
enhanced /enhanced
5 / 5
enabled /enabled
enabled /enabled
I actually tried streetracer at 260 and it didn't work and that's why i listed it with turbo. I haven't even tried 256-259 in streetracer mode yet. my VDD set at 3.55 fluctuates to below 3.523 so i'll probably have to raise my 3.3v line a bit more. I think it's at 3.850 currently hehe
well, I have now given up on the Ic7 Max3.. I have come to the conclusion it is the most expensive piece of S$$$ I have ever Bought...
time to go back to an asus or abandon it completely. Having too much fun with my athlon64 right now..
ok, let me get this straight...
there are 3 mods done here..
the vdimm stabilaztion mod, that bigtoe says to remove MC64 resistor. now, what do you do after you've removed that resistor? nothing?
then, the vdd mod,
you cut the trace that goes up and to the right on the back of the board. then you measure the resistance of the bottom leg of the upper right mosfet on the mobo (making this the right leg if looking the right way at it), it should read 5 mega ohms. I can then solder a 1k VR set to 320 Ohms to the left side of the MC50 and the bottom leg(right leg) of the mosfet in the upper right corner. (what do i do about the MC50 resistor? do i remove it? )
now, from here for the VTT mod, can i use a 1kVR with a 1kfixed resistor in parallel to make it essentially 2k VR (adjustable from 2k-1k ?)? I solder a outside leg of this new VR to the leg that is attached to the left side of the MC50 resistor. I then solder the middle leg to a GND.
Where do I check the volts of each mod, and what are the "suggested" ranges? also, for each mod, which ones do i increase resistance to decrease voltage, and which do i decrease resistance to increase voltage? or do i just want to increase volts on both mods?
Stang_man it depends if you're referring to the ic7 or ic7max3. MC64 should be removed from both the ic7 and ic7max3 for VDD voltage fluctuation. Although it appears to really only affect the max3 at 2.9v+. To mod VDD on the ic7 remove R50 and use a 1k ohm vario with center leg soldered to bottom pad of where r50 was and left leg to upper pad of where r50 was and right leg to ground. Resistance between center leg and left leg set at 100 ohms to start. For a max3 leave R50 alone but after removing mc64 use a 2k ohm vario where mc64 was. Only 2 legs of the vario are required. Center leg and right or left leg. Now for VTT for a ic7 and ic7max3 remove mc50. Then cut trace on back of mobo. Check resistance between the upper mosfets lower leg and left side of where mc50 was. SHould read 500k ohms to 5 megaohms. Now use a 1k vario with center leg soldered to left side of where mc50 was and left leg to right side of where mc50 was then solder a wire from upper mosfets lower leg to right leg of vario. Now set resistance between right leg and center pin at 100 ohms to start. That about covers all the mods for memory. Do a username search catch22atplay for other threads that cover this mod as well. Dan that was a lot of typing. I hope i got that right :)
this is on Orian's IC7 Max 3...Quote:
Originally posted by CATCH22ATPLAY
Stang_man it depends if you're referring to the ic7 or ic7max3. MC64 should be removed from both the ic7 and ic7max3 for VDD voltage fluctuation. Although it appears to really only affect the max3 at 2.9v+. For a max3 leave R50 alone but after removing mc64 use a 2k ohm vario where mc64 was. Only 2 legs of the vario are required. Center leg and right or left leg. Now for VTT for a ic7 and ic7max3 remove mc50. Then cut trace on back of mobo. Check resistance between the upper mosfets lower leg and left side of where mc50 was. SHould read 500k ohms to 5 megaohms. Now use a 1k vario with center leg soldered to left side of where mc50 was and left leg to right side of where mc50 was then solder a wire from upper mosfets lower leg to right leg of vario. Now set resistance between right leg and center pin at 100 ohms to start. That about covers all the mods for memory. Do a username search catch22atplay for other threads that cover this mod as well. Dan that was a lot of typing. I hope i got that right :)
which side of MC64 do i solder a 2k VR too?, and then this VR goes to ground right?
can i use a 1k fixed resistor in parallel with a 1k VR to make it adjustable between 1k and 2k? and what do i set the resistance too?
VTT seems really easy, it's just this little bit of confusion ^^
hope i get this right on his board... :p:
here's the VTT mod explained in a picture :)
Stang_Man,
can you do one of those pics for the IC7 VTT mod?
That's a pic you posted is a lot easier to understand IMO.
Thanks,
Minny
that also works for IC7 (according to catch)Quote:
Originally posted by Minnyboy
Stang_Man,
can you do one of those pics for the IC7 VTT mod?
That's a pic you posted is a lot easier to understand IMO.
Thanks,
Minny
So that 1K VR must be set to 100 ohms... then all we need to do next is remove mc64 and cut the trace behind the mobo?Quote:
Originally posted by Stang_Man
that also works for IC7 (according to catch)
Is this correct?
that 1k VR must be set to 100Ohms between the bottom leg of the mosfet (green wire), and the left side of MC50 (red wire).Quote:
Originally posted by scanido
So that 1K VR must be set to 100 ohms...
Is this correct?
this is a different mod... and I can't answer these questions, as I'm unsure myselfQuote:
Originally posted by scanido
then all we need to do next is remove mc64 and cut the trace behind the mobo?
Ok so we are about to do this to my ic7-max3 board. Now my questions are...
VDD mod affects the vdimm stabalization above 2.9vdimm correct This simply involves removing the MC64 cap and replacing it with a 2k ohm vario? What side of MC64 do we solder this to? I do not think radio shack has these...
VTT mod also affects vdimm stabalization? I'm just looking for a clear explanation of what these mods exactly do.
Thanks for the tip. I'll have a proper look at my mobo to find that MC50 & go fro there.Quote:
Originally posted by Stang_Man
that 1k VR must be set to 100Ohms between the bottom leg of the mosfet (green wire), and the left side of MC50 (red wire).
One more Q. Would it be alright to set the 1K Ohm VR to 1K & then lower the resistance as needed? I'm half thinking it's the same as the Vmem mod but want to be 110% sure B4 I go ahead with anything.
Oh yeah, I'm talking about stabilising my VTT on my IC7-G as I've done the Vmem mod & now it behaves like a good Max3. My dead Max3 could do over 2.9v with ease & stability but the VTT was around 1.3vtt-1.35vtt. Same thing is happening with my IC7-G so I'm looking to do the VTT for it.
/me rubbing hands waiting for delivery of BH-5 chipped XMS-3500 rev1.1.
Thanks:)
http://forum.abit-usa.com/showthread...&postid=227333
Look for madcats1968's post...awesome work
What can i use to get the MC64 removed?
I dont have this soldiering thing. Can i just use something to cut it in two? Will anything work?
Stang_Man,
I get it now. I was too worried with looking at your posted pics & didn't realise that you'd mentioned that it was for both the IC7/IC7-Max3.
I might just wait that bit longer til my BH-5's arrive & test them out with my already Vmem nodded IC7-G & if it does present a problem then I'll get the VTT mod done.
Thanks for everyone's help.
bump for Catch.
Bump?? er what i do now? Damnit i can't get my agp mod to work for some reason. Bought 2 P4 2.4 SL6Z3 cpu's the other day. I've only tried one so far and max i've had it with stock vcore and my IC7 undervolts a bit was 310FSB. Here's a pic below at 304.7FSB. Crappy score cuase i was only testing the cpu. Mem is extremely relaxed etc. Hoping the other 2.4 runs just as well.
bigtoe.... all you have to do is remove the cap?? thats it??Quote:
Originally posted by bigtoe
As ever mods void your warranty ;)
Quote:
bigtoe.... all you have to do is remove the cap?? thats it??
Quote:
Originally posted by CATCH22ATPLAY
Stang_man it depends if you're referring to the ic7 or ic7max3. MC64 should be removed from both the ic7 and ic7max3 for VDD voltage fluctuation. Although it appears to really only affect the max3 at 2.9v+. To mod VDD on the ic7 remove R50 and use a 1k ohm vario with center leg soldered to bottom pad of where r50 was and left leg to upper pad of where r50 was and right leg to ground. Resistance between center leg and left leg set at 100 ohms to start. For a max3 leave R50 alone but after removing mc64 use a 2k ohm vario where mc64 was. Only 2 legs of the vario are required. Center leg and right or left leg. Now for VTT for a ic7 and ic7max3 remove mc50. Then cut trace on back of mobo. Check resistance between the upper mosfets lower leg and left side of where mc50 was. SHould read 500k ohms to 5 megaohms. Now use a 1k vario with center leg soldered to left side of where mc50 was and left leg to right side of where mc50 was then solder a wire from upper mosfets lower leg to right leg of vario. Now set resistance between right leg and center pin at 100 ohms to start. That about covers all the mods for memory. Do a username search catch22atplay for other threads that cover this mod as well. Dan that was a lot of typing. I hope i got that right :)
Im doing the mod myself in a coupple a days. I have the MAX3 board. So, to get one thing straight, can i just remove MC64 and the board will work fine afterwoods without that MC64? or do i have to do something else to get it to work?
I thought it was just to remove the MC64, nothing more.
Can somebody please confirm to me that to do the mod, you ONLY have to remove MC64 on a MAX3 ?
Im doing the mod in the weekend, so i whant to know first what im doing!
thanx :)
Please read through this thread properly. At the start of the thread "bigtoe" basically tells you what you need to do. Even on the page you're on there is your answer.Quote:
Originally posted by Gef
Can somebody please confirm to me that to do the mod, you ONLY have to remove MC64 on a MAX3 ?
Im doing the mod in the weekend, so i whant to know first what im doing!
thanx :)
Yes I do think that is all you do for the Max 3 stabilisation.
edit:
Tried to PM Bigtoe about this?
see thats all bigtoe said to do but then catch22 comes in and says a whole bunch of stuff...
Well if all you want to do is fixed VDD volts from going crazy then just remove that mc64. If your vdd acts normal then there isn't any reason to remove it. I never had any vdd fluctuations. I just needed the vtt mod for when you set vdd to 2.9 or above. Had to fix it for tighter ddr timings and higher ddr o/c. Just mod what needs to be modded for what you want the mobo to do. Me i need it to run at 350fsb. That takes vdd/vtt/vnorth/vagp mods plus a damn fine custom psu.