Bends on my MCR320 Radiator Fins

Playing Battlefield 2 Special Forces yesterday i heard a loud boom, and my computer shuts off. I look inside my Silverstone TJ07 and the tubing came off of the cpu water block.

I decided to change the distilled water and change the tubing as well, since my computer has been running for over six months without a change.

I take everything out of my computer and notice a good amount of bends on my radiator's fins.

Would it be best to straighten out the bends with a flat head screw driver?

I also have 8 fans in my computer that all run above 100cfm, i need a fan controller badly since my ears ring on a daily bases with all noise.

I was thinking to get this. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811999171

Since this has 6 fans it can control, I need to control two with one of the controls. Would the best option be to have a y splitter to have one control run two fans simultaneously?

Thanks for the help :D

I personally would not touch them.
This way you don't by accident break something or puncture a hole.

Wait...your tubing came off your CPU block? No clamps?

Do you have pics of the rad? I'd be very careful with the fins and a screwdriver, but you might be able to do it.

I can't find the specs on that controller.

This is why everyone should use clamps even with their "safe" 7/16 tubing on 1/2" barbs...

If water got on anything in your computer you need to let those parts dry for at least a day, probably more before considering applying power to them again.

Yeah, there was no clamp on the cpu water block, it was fine for six months without a clamp. Yesterday it just popped off.

I tried to take some photos on my Canon A1000, but came out to be really blurry.

I will be putting clamps onto the new tubes, so this doesn't happen again.

As for the radiator, i won't be touching the bends.

As for my fans, I dont mind buying two fan controllers to control all eight fans. I want to make sure i can run all fans at 100% when I overclock the system, or play games. It seems as if the Zalman fan controller would not be able to run all fans at 100%.

Any other suggestions?

what are your fans? its channel is around 7w max for that zalman... i have two of those..but i like the rheobus extreme more..as it can handle more fans

rheobus extreme is good..30w x 6ch....not 12v though..more like 11v..

At the moment i have:

6 120mm Yate Loon D12SH-12

2 92mm Sunon KDE1209PTBX-6A

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Yeah, there was no clamp on the cpu water block, it was fine for six months without a clamp. Yesterday it just popped off.

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That should go in everyone's sig.



Personally I accidentally pressed my knee against some fins on the rad, I just straighened them lightly with a flat head screw driver but it wasn't deep, we're talking 1-2mm.

If you want to straighten out those fins, just be very careful. You'd be amazed at how thin the tubing is on watercooling rads. You don't even puncture them, you tear them. The walls are seriously like paper in many cases.

your fans are rated 4w-4.3w go for the rheobus extreme..and some fan y-splitter cables..

Thanks for the replies guys.

I will leave the radiator at it's current state. If there are more bends, i will decide to just grab another radiator.

How could you exactly tell what the fans are rated?

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Originally Posted by V3LCRO

How could you exactly tell what the fans are rated?

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General Physics formula P=IV (Power = Current x Voltage)
Current on the back of your fan x 12V assuming you run the fan at 12v
Yate Loons (High Speed) use 0.3A so it's about 3.6W (each fan)

Leave the fins alone. No rads are perfect and it doesn't actually affect performance so there isn't a need to worry. I would be more concerned with hoses coming off barbs though.

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Originally Posted by MomijiTMO

Leave the fins alone. No rads are perfect and it doesn't actually affect performance so there isn't a need to worry. I would be more concerned with hoses coming off barbs though.

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If it was 7/16" coming off 1/2" barbs I'd be suprised. 1/2" tubing on EK barbs come off easily though.

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Originally Posted by moogle

If it was 7/16" coming off 1/2" barbs I'd be suprised. 1/2" tubing on EK barbs come off easily though.

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Me too. If you use those large 12mm bitspower barb + 7/16"ID, 11/16"OD tubes, it's almost impossible to remove. I spent 7-10mintues just trying to remove 1 hose off a barb. It was like a tug-of-war if you ask me...

Yeah the same here I used the 7/16 with the bitspower barbs and I thought that I would pull my motherboard out of the case before I got it off...finally grabbed a knife to cut it off. Now on the stock EK and Swiftech barbs I did put clamps on because I didn't like how easy they went on.

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Originally Posted by Demthios

Yeah the same here I used the 7/16 with the bitspower barbs and I thought that I would pull my motherboard out of the case before I got it off...finally grabbed a knife to cut it off. Now on the stock EK and Swiftech barbs I did put clamps on because I didn't like how easy they went on.

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Yeah, they stay on without clamps better on Swiftech/D-Tek Hi-Flow barbs. Last one I pulled off the inner tube layer sliced off with the barb :D

So pretty good barbs for 7/16" no clamps :)

I don't think I've seen this posted yet, but TWEEZERS are excellent for straightening rad fins

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Originally Posted by moogle

Yeah, they stay on without clamps better on Swiftech/D-Tek Hi-Flow barbs. Last one I pulled off the inner tube layer sliced off with the barb :D

So pretty good barbs for 7/16" no clamps :)

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Do you think it has got to do with its larger size?

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/big1sishfifo.html

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When compared to other standard 1/2" fittings, the outlet ID is 12 millimeters, 2 millimeter larger than standard.

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Originally Posted by joecop120

I don't think I've seen this posted yet, but TWEEZERS are excellent for straightening rad fins

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or, very narrow needle nose pliers. I have some very slender ones that I've used on my 220 and 320. Open them just enough to let the fin into pliers just a tad or two, squeeze and release then pull out. This way you don't risk pushing a screwdriver through a fin since, they are thin as paper.

The more bent fins you have, the more the noise you will have.

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Originally Posted by KaptCrunch

just make sure tube is all the way on and place clamp between shoulder an taper

as for rad bend ? what is bent the tubes or fins.

if fins separated from tubes = trash

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threads are backwards:down:

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Originally Posted by Nanometer

threads are backwards:down:

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Wow, picky much?

I used a flat toothpick to fix some nicks in my radiators fins, doesn't take much pressure to bend them back into place. Make sure you have a lot of toothpicks though, And some appetizers to go with if you're hungry.

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Originally Posted by mcoffey

All tubing stretches after a while, It might be hell to get it off right after you get the tubing on, but after a couple months, comes off pretty easy even with 1/2 fittinigs, 7/16 tubing. Especially if there a bend close to the fitting.

Just use a wire tie, and all will be well.

andyc

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Yep, thats what I use, but I use the thin ones (3mm width I think) tightened just behind the taper of the barb like in that illustration in the thread.

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Originally Posted by Blazing fire

Do you think it has got to do with its larger size?

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/big1sishfifo.html

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If you mean by slicing the inner skin of the tubing, I don't think it's because of the size but mainly to do with the sharper taper end on the Swiftech, DTek barbs :)

Swiftech must have improved their metal barbs then? Because I have a pair that I refuse to use, they are pretty shoddy and don't really have a lip on them either.

Now D-tek barbs, yeah, huge lip on those. I use 7/16" tubing and I still use wormdrive clamps though ;) And it is possible to pull 7/16" ID tubing off the 1/2" dtek barbs, I do it every time I take the loop apart for maintenance.

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Originally Posted by SparkyJJO

Swiftech must have improved their metal barbs then? Because I have a pair that I refuse to use, they are pretty shoddy and don't really have a lip on them either.

Now D-tek barbs, yeah, huge lip on those. I use 7/16" tubing and I still use wormdrive clamps though ;) And it is possible to pull 7/16" ID tubing off the 1/2" dtek barbs, I do it every time I take the loop apart for maintenance.

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Well it must be D-Tek ones then :)
I'm not 100% sure but I have more D-Teks than Swiffies so yeah :D

Wow, thanks for the replies guys.

I am setting up my system right now. As for the fins I have fixed some bends with some tweezers which worked out well.

I also dropped by Petra Tech Shop yesterday to grab the Rheobus Extreme fan controller as well as some clamps.

I have the D-Tek Fuzion cpu waterblock, and i have the Masterkleer 7/16" ID that i had put on, which fits really well.

I will update you guys along the way, as soon as i am done i will post pictures of the rig.

Thanks for all the help guys! :D

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Originally Posted by V3LCRO

I have the D-Tek Fuzion cpu waterblock, and i have the Masterkleer 7/16" ID that i had put on, which fits really well.

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:shocked:

*Goes to put cable ties on my 7/16" tubing*

May I ask which pump you're using?

I hope you learned your lesson and are using some kind of clamp now...

Yeah after reading this I as well put zipties on everything LOL!! Waiting on Evil to get his clamps out but then I just cut the zip ties off lol!