1. Can anti corrosion additives help out here?
2. Haven't seen alot of pictures of corroded blocks. Please share your photos or photos from www.
Cheers
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1. Can anti corrosion additives help out here?
2. Haven't seen alot of pictures of corroded blocks. Please share your photos or photos from www.
Cheers
i did see two blocks there...the first block seemed tarnished and no sign of corrosion in my opinion? the gtx was terrible...but seems fishy..it was obviously abused..some afforded to dip it in something acidic.
anymore? info? i see bashing of alu but no pictures...
One example of a completely destroyed Apogee GTX (corrosion had actually clogged the internals of the block up):
http://www.petrastech.com/corro/corrodedGTX1.jpg
...and a less severe case of corrosion which occurred even with corrosion inhibitors in the coolant.
http://www.petrastech.com/corro/corrodedGTX2.jpg
All corrosion inhibitors will do is slow the corrosion reaction, not stop it. Granted, with strong inhibitors and frequent coolant changes, the reaction can be slowed enough to where you, hypothetically, wouldn't see a whole lot happen during the course of a part's life... but why risk it when there are plenty of alternative materials?
I don't see any corrosion Petra. ;)
Hey are any of these RMA cases? lol
Yeah... I still have both in a drawer in the warehouseQuote:
Originally Posted by MomijiTMO
You will probably see the stories of corroding GTX blocks rather then most others because the Alu and Cu are directly touching. When they touch you cannot stop corrosion through additives.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondacity
thanks but thats more or less isolated with the gtx waterblocks. kinda helpful. wish some post more pictures..koolance perhaps?
Here's another case of corrosion.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=139
Contrary to populat belief, you can stop corrosion of blocks and rads by using a sacrifical anode made of either silver or Stainless steel, fittings made of these materials and grounded to case will prevent the corrosion of the copper and aluminum. Also by using corrsion inhibitors will help to slow the sacrifical anodes demise........
Then why is zinc used in most anti corrosion systems for marine based structures and vessels?Quote:
Originally Posted by fart_plume
because zinc is cheap, and zinc does oxidize. And it the the electrical potential with dissimalar metals that marine engineers look at to determine which metals and coatings to use to reduce the effects of galvanic corrosion. From some of the research I've been doing with some water types you won't get galvanic corrosion, but you get bacterial and algeal corrosion. in the another water type(chemical make up) you get accelerated galvanic corrosion but no bio corrosion. There are a great number of things that contribute to corrosion. Even the distilled water from your Wal-mart may have a completely different ph than the distilled water from your local super market. Also maintaining a ph level between 7 & 7.5 is optimal for minimizing corrosion and preventing biologicals in water systems.
I would be interested to know how this affects anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by KaptCrunch
the "uv" lighting used in cases is more correctly termed black light, not true UV. The only true UV lights I have ever seen are heavy shielded from the operator. As far as i know uv has little effect on metals. One of the metal shops actually stored Stainless, Titanium and Aluminum, outside unprotected from the elements. the aluminum might get a light white tint to it but never more than that, same for the titanium. Stainless, well there are so many SS alloys, some will actually rust,some just get a little dull looking. your $00 series SS will rust due to the high carbon content, whereas 300 series is used a lot for marine and water uses, mainly because it has a higher nickle content.
Yeah looking at a real uv light isn't the smartest thing to do ;).
I can't see how it could affect it either and was just seeing what people thought.
easiest way i know of to tell if you have true UV light is a black light has a dark almost black filter, whereas true UV tube is clear. true UV light the human eye can't perceive, black light is simple high spectrum violet light, not Ultra-Violet. Close enough to make UV reactive dyes and colors glow.
Hey, how would I set up a sacrificial anode in this case? Say I had Al in my loop for some damn reason, what would I do to get the anode in?
you would need to put an anode on either side of your aluminum part, such as using a Stainless fitting(like one tee for filling and one for draining your loop) and ground each to your case. Reason for the ground wires is the complete the circuit for the sacrifical anode to work.(in essence you are just putting a part in with more electrical potential to control what is being eaten away and a SS fitting is cheaper than a rad for instance).
Yes , i know some are going to say "But you haven't Really stopped the corrosion!" this is true but you are controlling the corrosion, where it takes place and at what speed it occurs. Corrosion takes place IN ALL WATER SYSTEMS REGARDLESS of dissimilar metals or not. A straight copper system still has corrosion occuring, just at a much slower rate. Even differing copper alloys will accelerate corrosion to a point, because of the differing electrical potential of the alloys.
Awesome, I have the parts for that. Hell, I have the parts for silver anodes if need be...
What would have better performance? I would lean towards silver, for the fact that it's, well, silver. But you know more here, care to enlighten?
The advantage of silver is it also acts as a biocide, if you have a silver fitting you can control 2 problems with the same fitting.
Some thing that can help get a cheap pool ph tester for the local pool store/shop and check the ph of the coolant before you put in. the Closer it is to 7.5 ph but the over the better.
I agree with your post but just so everyone understands, you can get away with Cu and Al in the same loop. I have a loop that will be 3 years old next month with mixed metals and no corrosion. It's been a while but I believe it was 10-20% Pensotin mixed with distilled. I flushed the system at 1.5 years because I thought I saw some corrosion but it turned out I was wrong. One of the Al parts was used in a previous loop so I could say I've used Al in a loop for 4 years with no problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by Petra
Oh, I've done the same as well. I have no issues with running mixed metals if I have control over such as sacrificial anodes or good anticorrosive materials. I've seen just as many setups survive with no visible damage as I have setups die. People refuse to treat these setups with the proper respect, and lose parts, or Swiftech makes a misbegotten mockery of a CPU block (I know better than to put them that close together) and they have issues. Wanna see a real horror story? Shoulda seen the pics posted of a guy who used well water in his setup. Al is nothing compared to using tap water or the like.
welll.... It can cause metals to have a postential due to the Photoelectric effect, (which Einstein won his noble prize explaning). I suspect UV band light will have this effect.Quote:
Originally Posted by fart_plume
To follow from this, proper UV should kill bacteria, as used in water filters, and since it causes a potential, could be used to aid or negate the effects of electron flow in corrosion, depending on which metal experience more Photoelectric effect and the intensities and wavelenghts of the UV. :up:
I'm scared to look at the inside of my GTX now :stick:
Well, whenever i get around to pulling my loop apart.. i suppose I'll take a peek inside :rofl:
@ Riptide, I hadn't run across anything yet in my research on light affecting metals yet, so I have no other experience other that actual practical application as used in metal working. So I'll defer to you on this part.
@ KaptCrunch I have aluminum in my loop also, so far no problems.
Here i am about to get in the bed, i click on XS... to find two threads on the GTX corrosion. I'm now OCD about it :rofl:
But it seems fine, temps and all... just like the day i bought it. So i shouldn't worry.
Ya according to Quantum phota Theory it has to be ABOVE a certain frequency for each metal to excite the electrons off the surface. Each metal surface will have its own Frequency.Quote:
Originally Posted by fart_plume
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electroscope <<< Happens with gold in daylight.
I wouldn't worry, just take the precautions to control corrosion and you'll be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by ThatGuy16
Actually copper is expensive, China has been buying al the copper they can get their hands on for their industrialization. We've had a lot of copper thefts around the state here including guys cutting live transformer out of circuits(I'm talking power grid Transformers) and copper evaps and condensers out of running commercail AC units on the top of buildings. Copper $2.6757 lb., Aluminum $1.033 lb, and you get a lot more aluminum volume than copper for the same weight.
Source: http://www.kitcometals.com/
In marine applications, a zinc anode is better for salt water and a magnesium anode is better for fresh water.
The reason I said use Stainless is fittings are readily available. Magnesium= fire hazard. You can light magnesium with a match and it will burn underwater............( and i'm not disputing you at all dengyong).
Well, if you are so skeptical of galvanic corrosion why worry about mixing alu and cu? Why not do it yourself and find out?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondacity
I own a pool and the optimal "perfect" pH that is considered "nuetral (i.e. not acidic or alkaline) is 7.4. I do have pH minus and pH increaser here at the house. I also have a test kit here.Quote:
Originally Posted by fart_plume
In fact, you have raised my curiosity for an experiemnt. I'm gonna go get my test kit and test that Distilled I got at Walmart and report back what I find. This will be straight out of the jug. bbiaf...
I'll report the brand of water and the ph level in a few minutes. Testing is real easy. I have all the reagents to run all water tests.
Really don't mess with pH balance. You just end up adding unknown ingredients that could potentially react in unexpected ways to the other parts in your loop. Something that raises pH can often have citric acid and that stuff will eat away at copper faster than galvanic corrosion. My experience with hydroponic systems has also shown that pH balance is temporary and will usually end up at 8 or 9 within a month anyway.
OK I tested some Walmart Distilled Water that I bought for my new system. It is the cheapest stuff they had at 69 cents a gallon. It has no brand name, but is Steam Distillation Processed by Natural Springs at Hickory Springs in Elloree, SC
I ran full tests on the water and these are the numbers...
Free Chlorine (FC) = 0 (I got no reaction, and no color from the reagents)
Total Chlorine (TC) = 0 (Same deal - No Color, No Reaction)
Combined Chlorine (CC) = 0 (TC-FC=CC)
pH= 7.4 (Balanced)
Total Alkalinity (TA) = Less than 10ppm Calcium Carbonate(ended up proving to be zero after TH test)
Total Hardness (TH) = 0 ppm Calcium Carbonate (No Color Change of Hardness Indicator after adding over 100 drops of Hardness titrant. 100x10 would = over 1000ppm of Calcium Carbonate and I know it's not that high. I stopped at 100.
This is excellent water for a loop. It's balanced and flat on the other numbers. It wouldn't be great for pool water, but for a loop you can't get any better than that.
Basically what all that means is it won't eat on stuff, it contains no chlorates or chlorites, and it won't leave calcium deposits. It's pH balanced which keeps microbials from growing, and stops metalurgic reactions.
I give it an A+! :D
Short Version? :up:
Tested mine for ph only and it's at 6.8ph it's also from Wal-mart. Getting some more samples from every Wal-mart could be interesting.