Good Method for Cutting Out a Window

Hey guys if you happen to be a craftsman and have the skill and the tools check out this method for making a nice clean opening in an aluminum side panel.

http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/8...dows012vy1.jpg
I use melamine to make router templates but you can use chipboard or anything thick enough to guide the router.

http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/9...dows013yo5.jpg
One benefit of using a template is being able to easily layout the exact position of the opening. Another one is if you screw up you can just grab a piece of stock and start over...

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/3...dows014rw4.jpg
Throughout I assume your complete familiarity and mastery of basic tools. Using a tablesaw crank the blade up through the work to give yourself perfectly straight and parallel sides.

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/3...dows015ot8.jpg
Use a jigsaw with the appropriate blade to finish off the template.

http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/9...dows017sr6.jpg
Another benefit of using a template is it makes putting the hole where you want a lot easier. Plus when you clamp it to the panel it makes the panel stiffer. Clamp the template in position using rubber padded spring clamps. Mark about 1/8" in from the actual perimeter. Cut this out using a jigsaw. Here is when the template comes in handy again by protecting the surface from the base of the jigsaw as you cut. After you've hogged out the waste you can now use the template to guide your router. I like to use a 1/2" shank two flute carbide straight bit with a template collar on the base. This leaves about 1/16" of material hanging past the template. If you make a mistake in the way you handle the router and leave a ripple you can file or block it out or you can use a top bearing flush trim bit to blaze the 1/16" off flush to the template.

Again the template will be handy for sanding the panel by protecting the anodized exterior for any stray grit while hand or block sanding. Only after you have the piece dressed and ready for the window should you take the template off the panel.

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/1...dows018dp3.jpg
Using low tack tape to protect panels is standard practice when doing any kind of heavy work to them...you can never undo a careless moment.

http://img409.imageshack.us/img409/6...dows021et0.jpg
The cut left by the router is inifnitely smoother than you could get with a saw.

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/4...dows024bw3.jpg
In fact it might even be as smooth as a laser or waterjet (which leave little ripples BTW).

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/5...dows029eo7.jpg
The template is an aid again in keeping the sanding block dead perpendicular to the face of the panel to leave a perfectly smooth and flat edge.

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/3...dows030xb8.jpg
With an edge like that there is no need for bulky rubber channel. If the silver looks wrong to you just black it out with a sharpy. Once again if you use the template it will keep the ink on the raw metal and leave no ugly smudges on the anodized panel.

http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/5...dows031mq8.jpg
And one last benefit of the template...you can easily reproduce the work.

Hope that is interesting to the case modding community. Do not just go out and buy a tablesaw, router and jigsaw and try this...you will also need to learn how to use those tools safely. If you only have one panel and no second chances I suggest you practice on some scrap to get a feel for it. 2mm aluminum is not easy to route and you need to maintain firm control of the tool to pull it off.

Happy Modding

Nice guide :up:

Wish I had your skills/tools :yepp:

Good job :up:

Jigs are always the way to go. You do spend time to make them but the second time you use them they more than make up for the initial time investment and you get the same result over and over.
Laminated MDF or particle board makes the best materials for the jigs.
Old countertops are perfect to cut up for this.
Nice thread CD!:up:

I vote to sticky this guide.(as a metal worker with 30 years experience,this IS the best way to do it.)

Thread is stuck:up:

Excellent!

Gee thanks guys :)

I love my job:D

Very nice guide. I can't trust myself with a jigsaw after...incidences. Wish I had your skills CD.:up:
I'm considering banning myself from the dremel too, I make a lot of mistakes.:shakes:
Anyways, I will always use the waterjet when it's available, I'm OCD in case none of you guys figured that out yet, so basically if it's not perfect I will cry...for real.:shakes:

Oh yeah having a big machine would be lots of fun. It's the big bills I would have to shell out for that keep me humble. I've been making hole in all sorts of things for decades using pretty much the same technique as depicted...aluminum, as long as you are only trimming an 1/8" at a time or less is not too bad, but more than that and you need a real machine. The router would be a danger.

Another nice thing about making ac window or vent hole with a template is you could make a trim ring for the interior or exterior out of some other material and it will fit it perfectly.


http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/5...dows042zx9.jpg
For instance the second lower opening n this panel will get mesh. Mesh is a pain to keep perfectly in place...hotglue looks nasty..fender washers are hokey...aluminum strips are nice and tap well...but you can also make one out of acrylic in short order if you already have the template.

http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/1...dows043jx5.jpg
Here's a piece of UV Reactive Green Acrylic for the trim ring. Use template mounting tape to temporarily but securely attach the piece to your template.

http://img409.imageshack.us/img409/7...dows044xs5.jpg
Back your work up with a piece of material (more melamine here) to keep it from shifting or deflecting and to minimize tearout and chipping, and clamp securely.

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/3...dows045dp0.jpg
If you are plunging into the work without cuttnig away the waste area with a jigsaw you may want to follow up the Straight Bit/Pattern-Collar Base routing with a top bearing flush trimming bit to leave a cleaner edge than a 1/2" straight bit would leave intially. You would then be about 1/16" in from the edge which may be a desirable detail...or you could clean up the panel the same way. If the material is thicker than an 1/8" set up the plunge router to take only 1/8" at a time to leave a smooth cut.

http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/1...dows046ck9.jpg
You can produce relatively delicate parts this way...

http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/2...dows047oo4.jpg
Obviously the part matches the profile of the hole exactly since it came off the same template.

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/1...dows053cs3.jpg
A trim ring like this can be used to sandwich the mesh to the panel with screws. This will keep the mesh flat and allow for it to be removed and replaced if needed.

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/2...dows057rz7.jpg
For this particular vent hole the UV Reactive trim ring is also an aesthetic element...adding a glowing "pin stripe" around the opening when exposed to UV light.

And of course using a second template or just by cutting the outside perimeter of the part carefully you could make an external trim part that follows the profile of the opening.

Hey, CD, awesome work as always and a great tip for us just getting into cutting windows.

In order not to hijack this thread, might I ask for a similar one with tips for doing sharp corners rather than the rounded ones?

It's almost the same...Just skip tracing a bottle cap :D The router will leave rounded corners...these you can quickly file straight. In fact making a template for a squared off opening is pretty simple.

In this case the opening is for a rectangular reservoir and must be precise.

I started by taking a piece of 1/4" ply the width of the panel and gluing strips of wood to it. This way there are no screws for the router base to run over or to scratch the panel.
http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/8...done004ph6.jpg
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/2...done005hj6.jpg
http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/2...done012th4.jpg
Simply route out the hole in the template's 1/4" ply base and it's ready to go.

I tested it on a junker case but you could use anything that will show you if the template is the correct size.

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/8...cres001lf7.jpg
http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/2...cres003hi7.jpg
You need to allow for the router bit leaving a 1/16" overhang if using a pattern collar on the base...or if you are going to route it flush that is a non issue. Hence the need to check the opening in scrap against the device or part you are fitting. This is thetime to make adjustment. You can easily make the template opening smaller by laminating strips of formica or wood to the bearing edge of the template or make it wider by sanding, filing or using the tablesaw as described above.

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/3...cres007gx0.jpg
Protect the work and get your opening laid out and drawn precisely. Check it against the template.

http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/1...cres008hm8.jpg
Drill out holes within a 3/16" of each corner to make it easy to turn the jigsaw when removing the waste

http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/9...cres009po5.jpg
It may not be practical to use the template to protect the work when cutting out the waste so tape up the jigsaw base and use a second layer of tape on the panel.

http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/8...cres010zb8.jpg
Cut to within a heavy 1/8" of the line.

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/3...cres011vk1.jpg
Line the perimeter of the opening with double sided foam tape or template tape. I use the foam because it is easier to pull the template free without pulling off the tape.

http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/7...cres012ga6.jpg
Apply the template at a slight angle so you can adjust it as it goes down. I sometime apply some clamps tempoorarily to get the tape to really bond.

Secure the piece of work on a padded surface and route as described above.

http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/6...cres014xi1.jpg
With the template in place do all your filing and block sanding and polish. Don't remove the template until the edge is the way you want it for the installation.

http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/1...cres020qp1.jpg
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/4...cres015bn2.jpg
http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/3...cres025by1.jpg
Results.

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/5...cres028ii4.jpg
In this instance the hole frames a beveled acrylic panel for a reservoir...hence the need for precision and a clean edge.

@CD - As always, a great answer illustrated with great pics. I look at your stuff and wonder why I even consider doing anything myself. I should just pack it all up and mail it to you. But where's the sense of accomplishment in that, right? :p:

Thanks for the reply and your willingness to share knowledge.

Superb guide CyberDruid! I might be one of those guys that will go out and buy a tablesaw and router. My curiosity is peaked. ;)

Oh my.................

THAT is some project......... Nice one, Druid, as always.... :D

Thanks guys.

I may add another short blast about drilling fan holes without a chance for error in a bit.

As long as you're feeling magnanimous, Cyber...

Any tips on cutting more off-the-wall stuff? Things like bio-hazard symbols or Kanji characters.

Would it work to sandwich the side panel between two layers of plywood or MDF to prevent unsupported points from bending as you cut?

I know, I know, now I'm just being greedy, right? :D

I can dig up some shots of medium complexity type pattern routing...but you are limited by the size of the router bit (1/4") and the collar (add 1/16") and you can't route sharp inside corners. Anything finer in detail needs to be done on a scroll saw or with some other small tool. Routers can do a lot of different types of cutting...but getting intricate details is tough. Again the scrollsaw would be better for the job. Conversely you could also cut your side panel hole entirely with a saw...but that leaves work marks all down the edge...which is why I was suggesting routing holes in panels to get a more finished look.

So in essence you could use the router to do 9/10ths of the work of an asrtistic window and then transfer the pattern to the panel and cut the rest with a rotary tool or a saw. Your intial drawing will have to be modified to allow for the strength of whatever you are cutting. A simple example being any closed loop letter or character like a "P" needs to have that center portion bridged to the body of the letter or it won't be there...and you cannot leave too little material or it will bend or break...then you have to try and incorporate all those structural elements into the aesthetic part of the drawing...if you get my drift. Or else your stuff will look like a stencil.

That is when a waterjet or lasercutter is really the right way to go.

Gotcha, CD. I'm probably going to have to do a lot of jig saw work rather than router stuff. Oh, well, it just means I'll have to file a lot more edges smooth. Thanks again for the answers and info.

very nice. you surely are a good inspiration to modders around the world...

Very nice guides!!

Thanks for the guide. Just bought a router last week to flush cut a project I am doing and also to make some acrylic shrouds for some rads. Just a small laminate trimmer, but am very impressed with it. Very easy to work with compared to a huge porter cable I borrowed from a friend before. Not a plunge router, but you can get around that. I only wish the collet/chuck could take the end mills I have, but it only does 1/4"


http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/2...0c079a4tp3.jpg

1hp, varible speed and $119 at home depot (came in case with edge guide) . They also had a Rigid trimmer there that is probably as good as the bosch for $98 and a Ryobi for like $60. Personally, I'd not get a Ryobi and although I think the Rigid is pretty good, I'd take a Bosch over that for a little more $$.

Used it to bevel cut and round cut flush .063 6061 T6 aluminum. Was worried using a router for metal would be a problem, but it ate right through it no problem and left a decent bevel and rounded edge (only decent because .063 is kinda thin for such things or maybe I gotta play more with the bit's depth, the router itself did a great job). Also tried it on 1/4" thick acrylic, did a beutiful job there. My jigsaw does not compare to the cuts this router does. Very smooth and clean edges and although I haven't made any templates, just clamping down a simple straight edge and lining up the bit with the cut line gives a great cut.


Great tool, really want to learn how to really make use of it. Gonna have to start buying some wood for templates. Just been buying foamboards at officedepot and cutting it up into a templates with xacto knives and then using that to place and draw out onto the actual work piece. Then clamping down straight edges for each cut...but that was before I got the router :) .

WOW very nice work. I am very impressed. :up:

Glad this is interesting to you guys. I'll be adding a bit about how to use a table mounted router to make small parts safely.

And your point is?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CyberDruid

And your point is?

---

Sorry was trying to share an opinion. My point was that your way of cutting may be easier in the end.

I don't know if it's easier...there is much more time involved I think. But if you only have one shot at it it's nice to have a guide to protect the rest of the panel.

Here's a couple of shots of another way to use a template and router.

http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/2...ails054ue3.jpg
I needed to make a trim ring for a pair of not so beautiful filters...I could have cut the acrylic out to this shape...but that's a lot of scrollsaw work and sanding and it's a kind of delicate piece...so I chose to make the template instead...I cut it out from the template I originally used to locate the holes in the panel...saving maybe a little time locating the screw holes and making the 120mm cutouts. Then I sanded it on the spindle sander closer to my marks. I simply traced around the filters with a washer to get the desired reveal.


I then traced the pattern onto a piece of acrylic and cut that out rapidly leaving about 1/4" all around. I sprayed the template and the acrylic with 3M 777 Spray Adhesive and let it tack then glued the pieces together. To further secure the acrylic I made use of the exisitng screw holes in the template and drilled #29 holes and tapped the acrylic to 8-32 and used 1" screws with a couple of spacing washers to snug the piece to the template while keeping the screws from protruding.

http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/2...ails055dn2.jpg
With the router mounted in the table using a new 1/2" shank trimmer bit I simply trimmed off the excess...I let the piece move with the rotation of the blade to minimize tearout until I was nearly flush to the template than I changed direction and pushed the piece into the router blade to clean it up.

Only after I had sanded the piece and run it on the buffing wheel did I remove the screws and using a thin putty knife part the piece from the pattern.

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/1...ails016bh7.jpg

http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/1...ails017do1.jpg

http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/4...ails019wh7.jpg
Just to show what this odd piece of trim is intended to do...

http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/7...ails020lx2.jpg
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/1...ails024tv5.jpg

http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/3...ails027aw0.jpg
http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/7...ails028vb9.jpg
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/5...ails029km3.jpg

http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/7...ails030tk7.jpg

http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/2...ails041yd7.jpg
Using the same template to make the new template made sure the holes would align exactly.

Although I could have made the piece with a scrollsaw or a well-tuned bandsaw and drillpress, I decided to use the router just to demonstrate another way to use a template to make sure your window/vent/random opening comes out the way you want the first time.

Thanks for the comments...

Hope this give you homeshop-guys some ideas...

Yep looks very good. Definitely a solid technique. Your work is awesome! :up:

Damn, CD! That's a lot of work for a piece that small, but I guess that's why your mods always look so awesome. :up:

Yeah I dunno about that but it's just another way to do things. It really makes more sense to go to all that trouble if you need two or more identical parts or if you think you will be repeating the operation.

Thanks:)

Thanks for another great guide. :toast:

Nice CD. I'm another 30 yr. man and find PC mods to be a nice hobby. I'm forever reading "how to's", watching home shows if the tv is on looking for ideas and shortcuts. Thanks for taking the time to show off your great work.

It's definitely lighter work than boats or houses...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CyberDruid

It's definitely lighter work than boats or houses...

---

Lol, yeah, been there done that, much easier work than this.:yepp:

Very nice work CD!!

Man I have a v1100 that I have been wanting to chop up but I'm too scared to mess up my case LOL. I have all the tools too, router, jig, dremel w/wand and table saw. I gotta man up! :D

CyberDruid do you need a specific router bit for cutting the metal? Because the normal ones are meant for wood really...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CyberDruid

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/1...dows053cs3.jpg
A trim ring like this can be used to sandwich the mesh to the panel with screws. This will keep the mesh flat and allow for it to be removed and replaced if needed.

---

You use washers/nuts then to hold the mesh and border on then? or tap screws into the acrylic? I am going to be putting a window into my case and would like to do this without messing it up. I have a feeling I might though :)

Also where do you get sheets of mesh at?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Herc130

Thanks for the guide. Just bought a router last week to flush cut a project I am doing and also to make some acrylic shrouds for some rads. Just a small laminate trimmer, but am very impressed with it. Very easy to work with compared to a huge porter cable I borrowed from a friend before. Not a plunge router, but you can get around that. I only wish the collet/chuck could take the end mills I have, but it only does 1/4"


http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/2...0c079a4tp3.jpg

1hp, varible speed and $119 at home depot (came in case with edge guide) . They also had a Rigid trimmer there that is probably as good as the bosch for $98 and a Ryobi for like $60. Personally, I'd not get a Ryobi and although I think the Rigid is pretty good, I'd take a Bosch over that for a little more $$.

Used it to bevel cut and round cut flush .063 6061 T6 aluminum. Was worried using a router for metal would be a problem, but it ate right through it no problem and left a decent bevel and rounded edge (only decent because .063 is kinda thin for such things or maybe I gotta play more with the bit's depth, the router itself did a great job). Also tried it on 1/4" thick acrylic, did a beutiful job there. My jigsaw does not compare to the cuts this router does. Very smooth and clean edges and although I haven't made any templates, just clamping down a simple straight edge and lining up the bit with the cut line gives a great cut.


Great tool, really want to learn how to really make use of it. Gonna have to start buying some wood for templates. Just been buying foamboards at officedepot and cutting it up into a templates with xacto knives and then using that to place and draw out onto the actual work piece. Then clamping down straight edges for each cut...but that was before I got the router :) .

---

I just went out and purchased this router for my wc project I am starting.. have only used a router a few times.. will have to practice some more.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00917542000P

That router will last you many many years. You should watch instructional vids and/or read some basic guides. A router can cause serious injury in a split second.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CyberDruid

That router will last you many many years. You should watch instructional vids and/or read some basic guides. A router can cause serious injury in a split second.

---

This is a good place to toss in a reminder about using older dull blades in table saws,etc..
Dull blades in addition to burning the wood tend to "climb" up on the wood and create dangerous conditions.
Same with router bits, some spin close to 20,000rpm and the accident has happenned before you even have a clue that it's going to happen.
The expression "safety first" is not just words.
When I work with table saws,etc I always stop and take that 10 second look to make sure things are tight, where they should be and NEVER,NEVER work with a table saw with a long sleeve shirt on.
No hanging shirts outside the pants either.
A few seconds just thinking about safety can mean the difference between having your hands attached or spending the rest of your life without them.

I just used this method to put a window in my case and it works great, I used this router bit.. went through the aluminum like butter, so if you are looking for a router bit check this one out.

http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=3317A25

Thanks for the word back about that. Great to know it helped.

And thanks MM for the safety tips. It's true.

Nice work.

Thank you

hey guys! i hav got a cooler master haf 932! I would like to cut a side window in it like this..

http://cmstore.coolermaster-usa.com/...Window-big.jpg

What bothers me the most is that the original side panel has a side window and has a lil offset.. How can i get through this?

Total awesomeness man. You can bank on me coming back to this!!
Thanks XD