R507 modded MachI

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09-30-2003, 08:10 PM
Charles Wirth

R507 modded MachI

Ive been running for over a week now and I have been monitoring compressor temp and the overall system.

I did not extend the cap tube, just a straight charge of R507 and some tuning.

I had to reset the alarm temp to -65c

I can reach 4.2Ghz on stock voltage and boot into windows. I might be able to reach 4.3Ghz on stock voltage.

Less than stock voltage @ 4Ghz running PCMark.
http://fugger.netfirms.com/4stock.jpg

Running 3D my MachI display will warm up to -51c

My compressor maxes around 115c so I know enough refridgerant is getting back to the compressor.

No start problems at all and no popping oil.

My only problem is my display reads Er0 from one minute after I turn the unit on till I turn it off.

This by far beats 134a badly.

Benchmarks this weekend
09-30-2003, 08:12 PM
Ragnarok

:eek: !!!

I wonder how long it will last!!!!
09-30-2003, 09:09 PM
lallend

Wow, Great temps Fugger!!

I guess my hotass AMD isn't gonna be so nice to me.

Currently, the evap is -39c at 2.1 volts Vcore (at idle) and MBM reports the CPU is +9c

Maybe time for some tuning eh?
09-30-2003, 09:20 PM
DarKcyde

Fugger: noice!

That display problem annoys me. Has anyone ever pulled that display apart to see if there's something we cant mod in there to fix that? I think I recall bowman saying somewhere that its hardcoded to freak out at -50C, no matter what you set the alarms to. With all the refridgeration expertise around here.... what we need now is an electronics monkey to design us a better controller. :D

Lallend: is yours R404a? Mine ran about -23C w/ 2.1 Vcore, stock R134a
09-30-2003, 09:39 PM
lallend

Quote:

Originally posted by DarKcyde
Lallend: is yours R404a? Mine ran about -23C w/ 2.1 Vcore, stock R134a

No, its with R507 and no cap tube mod as suggested by Fuggers A/C tech friend (who knows alot about A/C, thats for sure)

So far, at stock Vcore, the coldest the evap has gotten to is -46c (unloaded).

Loaded, it drops well into the -30's and according to MBM the cpu temps are +15c to +25c depending on the overclock

What were your reported CPU temps? I know, take it with a grain of salt.....
09-30-2003, 09:41 PM
Charles Wirth

Larry bring it back by and we can tune it much better now, I think I can squeeze -10c more out of it.
09-30-2003, 09:45 PM
lallend

Sounds good Charles! Hehe, one thing though, this prommy stuff is cool (pun intended!) :D
10-01-2003, 03:11 AM
Marci

Might be worth stickin a guide up fer 507'in yer prommi Fugger-d00d!

Weight or Pressure amounts would be handy as it appears to be much more straightforward than the 404 mod... specially if no tubing mods are required...

Also, how would it apply to a Mk II? Any ideas?
10-01-2003, 03:21 AM
DoGMaN

Wow great work FUGGER!! I Agree with Marci. I would love a little guide as to how much 507 and how exactly you tuned it so well. I'm kind of surprised that the little prom mach I compressor can handle 507, but that is great news!!!
10-01-2003, 03:22 AM
Gary Lloyd

I am seeing prommie evap temps all over the map, and many of the temps reported are just not possible. The prommie obviously has serious problems with sensor calibration.

This wouldn't be a big deal, but they are controlling fan speed, reset, alarms, and who knows what else, all based on a false temperature. I think it's a problem.

The more I learn about the prommie control system, and it's evap sensor in particular, the less I like it.
10-01-2003, 03:52 AM
JCviggen

Quote:

Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
I am seeing prommie evap temps all over the map, and many of the temps reported are just not possible. The prommie obviously has serious problems with sensor calibration.

The early Mach II units tended to report too low temps... but the latest ones shouldnt have that problem anymore. I think the Mach 1 sensors should all be within 1-2C of each other.
10-01-2003, 04:17 AM
bowman1964

well the only way i have been able to stop the err code is adjust the temp readout with a vr resistor accoss the temp sensor wires.but the only way to do it is use a trusted meter,fluke or simpson.and measure the evap temp directly.then throw it off by 10c with the resistor.that stops it.but it will read 10c warmer temps.
i have seen the guide to reprograming the unit.but i have dealt with carrel on this and the control was not designed to be used below -40c with the thermistor they are using.it becomes way off at cold temps anways.
all the reported cold temps below -50 or so are not right.the thermistor starts to act flakey after -50 or so i have found.put a ohm meter on the wires and watch.it will just start to spike back and forth when it is real cold.
a thermistor was never designed to be used for those cold of temps.
the only way you will know how cold it really runs is with a good fluke meter set to use a j type or t type thermocoupling.
i like the t type better.i have soom that are .005 in diameter,they will slide under the head and read true temps.
the carrel unit works great in the temps around -40 so i have found but when it gets close to -50 it starts its strange business,but i have seen one or 2 that were closer than others.

without a real meter checking the temps,that was designed for low temps you can never no what it is really doing.
10-01-2003, 04:44 AM
bowman1964

i have the excate specs somewhere on the carel unit.i will find the link to the specs and post them for everyone.just dont let me forget.it would help for eveyone to see what they were spec to.
10-01-2003, 04:53 AM
isp

Nice Fugger. :toast: I haven't heard of R507 until now...
10-01-2003, 05:04 AM
Gary Lloyd

Since the refrigerant cools the evap, the refrigerant temperature must be lower than the evap temperature. If the gauges indicate a higher temperature than the evap sensor, then one of them is wrong.

Quote:

the only way you will know how cold it really runs is with a good fluke meter set to use a j type or t type thermocoupling.

I have used Flukes for many years. Wouldn't have anything else. :D
10-01-2003, 07:25 AM
baker18

I agree with Gary. I would put a good thermometer on it and take an accurate temp reading and compare it with the prommie. Probably 10c to 15c difference.

baker18
10-01-2003, 07:51 AM
Marci

Quote:

i will find the link to the specs and post them for everyone

Which specs? I have the full manual link at home...

This is a shrunk down version providing a summary of parameters... http://www.tempatron.co.uk/manuals/IR32Manual.PDF
10-01-2003, 08:09 AM
Charles Wirth

When my unit goes past -52c the fans will turn on full speed. I think this is a good thing like a turbo boost. The fans are not loud so it is not a problem for me.
10-01-2003, 09:32 AM
bowman1964

fugger you have a fine thread going here,and you should be proud whatever the temps work out to be..:toast:

but as i think everyone always gets back to the subject of the prometia temps reading being off.and i do not want to get into a discussion in here on the controller.but i think we need a place to discuss this and other things like thermo dynamics,heat transfer and other phace change topics.WITHOUT thread crapping.LOL

so i am going to open up a thread for open discussions on all phase change(refrigerantion based ideas) as well as prometia threoys.

again fugger great going...good luck.and we can discuss the prometia controller in the other thread
heavy discussion
10-04-2003, 02:37 PM
Charles Wirth

:toast:

http://fugger.netfirms.com/r507mod.jpg

Unstable screen shot, but...

Running 3D in a bit, got a few new cards to mod

Even with the newest bios my IC7 errors out at -25c and doesnt change. So I know my CPU is colder that -25c at idle at full speed.

MachI will drop from er0 to -49c on the display at the end of nature in 2k3 run.

I took down a #1 spot, a min ago

http://service.futuremark.com/compare?2k3=1381332
10-04-2003, 02:52 PM
TodB

Bowman, can you comment the impact of the R507 over the Mach compressor?

Cuz despite the wrong temps it's really important ( for me at least ) to know if the NL11F ( If I'm correct ) will sustain the "load" from the R507? :) :confused:
10-04-2003, 03:03 PM
DoGMaN

From my very limited knowledge, 507 acts very similar to 404a. The max high and low side pressures for 507 are slightly higher than 404a so it will have more of an impact on the life of the compressor, but how long is anyone's guess. I chose to use R502 instead of 404a or 507 due to slightly lower pressure ratings. It is a pretty small difference, but so is the difference in boiling point (<1C). R502 also has less glide than R404a and most likely R507 as well.
10-04-2003, 03:40 PM
Charles Wirth

http://fugger.netfirms.com/46ghz.jpg

cooling more stuffs now, unstable at screen shot speed.
10-04-2003, 04:07 PM
Charles Wirth

Shooting for 4.7Ghz screenie atm...

Then back to business
10-04-2003, 04:16 PM
Charles Wirth

http://fugger.netfirms.com/47ghz.jpg
10-04-2003, 04:24 PM
DoGMaN

Sick bastard! Looks good man, simply amazing!
10-04-2003, 05:18 PM
isp

Nice screenies fugger :D
10-04-2003, 05:32 PM
vlad

:toast: VERY NICE INDEED!!!!! i agree with marci you should post a guide.:thumbsup:
10-04-2003, 06:26 PM
bowman1964

Quote:

Originally posted by TodB
Bowman, can you comment the impact of the R507 over the Mach compressor?

Cuz despite the wrong temps it's really important ( for me at least ) to know if the NL11F ( If I'm correct ) will sustain the "load" from the R507? :) :confused:

no differance you will notice.there is no cooling differance in the 2.about 2 to 3c diff but the higher pressure off sets it so they are almost equal.if it was colder i surely would be using it...LOL
the 2 are the same price too.it is just a matter of choice and what you are used too.
10-04-2003, 07:34 PM
NyCUndaGrounD

That is freakin crazy Fugger. Great job man!
10-04-2003, 08:01 PM
lallend

Quote:

Originally posted by FUGGER

I took down a #1 spot, a min ago

http://service.futuremark.com/compare?2k3=1381332

Hehe, very very nice! So what are ya cooling the vid card with? hmmm?

:toast:
10-05-2003, 01:02 AM
TodB

Quote:

Originally posted by bowman1964
no differance you will notice.there is no cooling differance in the 2.about 2 to 3c diff but the higher pressure off sets it so they are almost equal.if it was colder i surely would be using it...LOL
the 2 are the same price too.it is just a matter of choice and what you are used too.

Ohh... i see.... thanx man, so the 404a is still the way to go :)

Fugger, the way you're going soon we'll be seeing 5GHs shots @2V m8 :D
10-05-2003, 05:13 AM
Gary Lloyd

Quote:

Bowman, can you comment the impact of the R507 over the Mach compressor?

Cuz despite the wrong temps it's really important ( for me at least ) to know if the NL11F ( If I'm correct ) will sustain the "load" from the R507?

The prommie compressor is designed for R134A. This means it can not only withstand the normal operating pressures of R134A, but also a certain amount of abnormal pressure. For example, if the condenser fan quits, the high side pressure will rise very quickly, and the valves must be able to take it.

When we change to a higher pressure refrigerant such as R404A or R507, it's normal operating pressures are within the (abnormal) limits of the compressor, and there should be no problem, although it will probably shorten the lifespan of the compressor.

But what if the condenser fan motor quits, when using the higher pressure refrigerants? Now we are talking real pressure.

Probably the compressor will kick off on overload. Also, there is an internal relief which will bypass pressure back to the low side, thus limiting high side pressure. Will this save the compressor from internal damage? Maybe, and maybe not.

That's why going to a higher pressure refrigerant voids the compressor warranty. When you switch refrigerants, you take your chances.
10-05-2003, 05:20 AM
DoGMaN

Quote:

Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
That's why going to a higher pressure refrigerant voids the compressor warranty. When you switch refrigerants, you take your chances.

Well, we void the warranties on everything else ;) May as well go for the full monty. :toast:
10-05-2003, 05:22 AM
bowman1964

Quote:

Originally posted by Gary Lloyd

But what if the condenser fan motor quits, when using the higher pressure refrigerants? Now we are talking real pressure.

Probably the compressor will kick off on overload. Also, there is an internal relief which will bypass pressure back to the low side, thus limiting high side pressure. Will this save the compressor from internal damage? Maybe, and maybe not.

.

well my friend it wont cut off too quick.:(

i have tested this,in the beginning..as that is why i always wire the fan direct full speed.

i am sure no one else has good to the extensive testing i have,but thats just me i guess.i want to always know worst case.

i know for a fact the compressor will hit 400 psi on the high side and still climb.before i decided it was enough and connected the fan.it will blow the condensor easily i believe.but some will find out the hard way.

but yep these high pressure refrigerants can be dangerous
10-05-2003, 05:36 AM
Gary Lloyd

I wonder how much pressure the prommie condenser is rated at? Are there test pressures listed on the unit specs?
10-05-2003, 05:41 AM
bowman1964

Quote:

Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
I wonder how much pressure the prommie condenser is rated at? Are there test pressures listed on the unit specs?

331 psi high 174 psi low
10-05-2003, 06:06 AM
Gary Lloyd

Yep, sooner or later one is going to pop. To make the system safe, it should have a high pressure cutout switch, which shuts off the compressor at 300psi:

http://www.supco.com/catalogpressureswitches.htm
10-05-2003, 06:14 AM
bowman1964

Quote:

Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
Yep, sooner or later one is going to pop. To make the system safe, it should have a high pressure cutout switch, which shuts off the compressor at 300psi:

http://www.supco.com/catalogpressureswitches.htm

yep i have a bunch at work we use.easy to use just screw them down on the access firring and wire in a relay to the main compresor feed.i would proberly use a normally closed one set to 325 to 350psi.
but any any one would work just depending on how you wire it up.
10-05-2003, 06:26 AM
Gary Lloyd

BTW, that's a website worth browsing. Supco makes lots of interesting accessories for the refrigeration industry, including start kits, time delays, etc., etc., etc.
10-05-2003, 09:52 AM
DarKcyde

Of course, you could just use 2 fans on the condensor. Greatly reduces your chances of catastrophic failure if you got some redundancy there.

Are there any other situations that might cause serious problems w/ these refridgerants? Some risk I can deal with... stuff exploding in my bedroom? ...makes me nervous.
10-05-2003, 10:36 AM
Charles Wirth

I did another obvious change last night. Instead of setting alarm @ -65c I moved it down to -30c so that the fans never slow down between -32c and -52c.

I had to stop early last night.
10-05-2003, 11:20 AM
Holst

nice 1 m8, let us know if it blows up :P (lets hope not)
10-05-2003, 12:00 PM
DarKcyde

Which alarm exactly? Doesnt the one that causes your fans to run fullspeed also turn off the heater in the evap head? (soz, i'm not home now, dont have the docs handy).
10-05-2003, 12:06 PM
Charles Wirth

S25 or S26, I dont have book handy atm
10-05-2003, 01:05 PM
ALT-F13

Lol with that 3DMark03 CPU score. Nice run and impressive for P4. But just yesterday i did exactly the same 977 points with FX-51 @ 2.4 on air:)
10-05-2003, 01:06 PM
ALT-F13

haven't uploaded it - just thought it is not interesting for anybody... LOL! And that was the world record :D
10-05-2003, 02:02 PM
Naughtyboy

OK..guys..all this sounds very exiting. BUT one thing that crosses my mind.

When you´re doing the R404 modd...it´s said that you should extend the cap.tube with aprox. 1.5m.

Is this suitable for the R507 to...will it benefit from extending the cap.tube. ....or is a plain ref. exchange enough..??

Anyone with a good answer ..??
10-05-2003, 02:37 PM
Holst

Seems like just a refrigerant swap works pretty good.

But I assume extending the cap tube will get you lower temps.

Although this might put extra load on the compresor, maybee bowman, Gary, captaincascade or one of the other experts can say for sure.

If you extended the cap tube to its "correct/optimal" length then might the conpressor be unable to start at all?
10-05-2003, 03:21 PM
Major

OMG Fugger thats awsome ! :toast:

So what is stable ?? atleast bench stable ! lol
10-05-2003, 10:42 PM
Turbo

1 Attachment(s)

:)
10-05-2003, 10:43 PM
Turbo

1 Attachment(s)

:eleph: results should be in next week or two
10-06-2003, 05:49 PM
bob(nz)

Quote:

Originally posted by bowman1964
well the only way i have been able to stop the err code is adjust the temp readout with a vr resistor accoss the temp sensor wires.

the only way you will know how cold it really runs is with a good fluke meter set to use a j type or t type thermocoupling.

Hi Bowman

I have a R404 modified Mach I unit and have resorted to the resistor trick to stop the screaming controller and continuous shutdowns - which sort of defeats the purpose in a way.

What controller (if any) would you recommend could be used to replace the Carel unit so that true temps etc could be seen? I am serious thinking of getting a replacement controller and a suitable j or t type thermocouple to get around this issue once and for all.

Thanks in advance for your comments :toast:
10-06-2003, 07:04 PM
DarKcyde

The Carel controller is perfectly capable of handling much lower temps, all that needs replacing is the temp probe. See the Heavy Discussion thread Bowman made for more info. I think the controller can use a J or K type thermocouple, which are capable of -100C. See the other thread for my thoughts on that.
10-06-2003, 11:19 PM
bob(nz)

Hi Darkcyde

Have read the post, and it is as I thought. The standard IR32Z controller that comes with the Mach I is only for use with NTC probes - limited to -50 degress. This means that I have to change both the controller and the sensor to get over the issue. :)

The question is - is there a better option than the Carel controller available? For me here in NZ the Carel controller and probe will cost me approx $600 NZ pesos :eek: (approx US$350) :D

Before I race out and sell my kidney to fund the purchase I just wanted to clarify if I had other options :D
10-07-2003, 02:09 AM
Gary Lloyd

Another option would be to mount a sensor on the suction line as close as possible to the evaporator. This will read a few degrees higher than actual evap temp (keeping it within the Carel controller range), and is actually a better control point as far as function is concerned.
10-07-2003, 01:36 PM
DarKcyde

Bob: I dunno why, but when I read "NZ pesos" I fell outa my chair. Being canadian, I can sympathise :D

I guess you're right about the controller, there are different versions for the diff temp probes. DOH.

I'm beginning to think that the whole controller needs to go too, but I'm not sure what would replace it.
10-08-2003, 05:26 AM
Tom Holck

Quote:

Originally posted by ALT-F13
Lol with that 3DMark03 CPU score. Nice run and impressive for P4. But just yesterday i did exactly the same 977 points with FX-51 @ 2.4 on air:)

Yes, thats tuff. I just tried the CPU test, can "only" do 974 on my Cascade Prommy R404a going at P4@3200@4300

Fugger use an ES, so better FSB and Ram speed:rolleyes:
10-08-2003, 05:36 AM
JCviggen

Hmm I believe I got around 1100 CPU with an FX-51 in 3D 03 :eek: I am sure it was well past a thousand I believe it was in the low 1100s at 2.85 GHz
10-08-2003, 05:41 AM
Tom Holck

Hi JCViggen

Quote:

Originally posted by JCviggen
Hmm I believe I got around 1100 CPU with an FX-51 in 3D 03 :eek: I am sure it was well past a thousand I believe it was in the low 1100s at 2.85 GHz

Thats nice

I can't get any corsair twin R 3200c2 here. FX-51 and MOB no problem...

Do You have a link to some store in europa, that have Corsair R ram?

:toast:
10-08-2003, 07:56 PM
|RickY|

wow, impressive ;) i've my promy moded to r404a and 1 extra cappilar meter, i used 1 hour to calibrate the gaz and at at 1.8v and max cpu overclock at the end of 3dmark 2k3 i'v -43 on promy chill control
if i use ice on the condenser i get somthing like -48º on chill control

and you with r507, no cap mod an condenser at air get -49 :slobber:

i'm verry interessed to try r507 :D there is no need to change compressor oil and the it afects compressor like r404a right? just recharge with r507? :D

going to buy r507 :D

:toast:

EDIT: only one more question, we are talking about r507 right? not r507a
10-09-2003, 09:51 AM
Tom Holck

Hi Ricky

Quote:

Originally posted by |RickY|
wow, impressive ;) i've my promy moded to r404a and 1 extra cappilar meter, i used 1 hour to calibrate the gaz and at at 1.8v and max cpu overclock at the end of 3dmark 2k3 i'v -43 on promy chill control
if i use ice on the condenser i get somthing like -48º on chill control

and you with r507, no cap mod an condenser at air get -49 :slobber:

i'm verry interessed to try r507 :D there is no need to change compressor oil and the it afects compressor like r404a right? just recharge with r507? :D

going to buy r507 :D

:toast:

EDIT: only one more question, we are talking about r507 right? not r507a

Ricky,
Don't do it. I now from Danfoss factory, the compressor can't take it.
Its R507a.
R404a is a mixture and R505a is almost the same mixture without R134a. When you vacuum the system, it might bee unsufficient, and when you fill R505a it work!?. Its because its not vacuum proberly, and the mixture actualy is R404a !!!
IF you vacuum proberly an fill R505a, the compressor can't take the pressure, og you can't fill to a desent cooling-effekt but only a "cold" system to do screenshot.

PS: my R404a system is under -54/-53 the most of the time. At the end of 2k3mark my temp is -50/-49...
at 1.81 volt...

:D
10-09-2003, 10:08 AM
Charles Wirth

My compressor seems to handle it just fine.

I like R507 better than the R404
10-09-2003, 10:55 AM
|RickY|

Re: Hi Ricky

Quote:

Originally posted by Tom Holck

PS: my R404a system is under -54/-53 the most of the time. At the end of 2k3mark my temp is -50/-49...
at 1.81 volt...

:D

:slobber: how u get that temperatures? only with a charge of r404a i get -41c full load at 1.8 with an extra 1,2meter of 0.7mm capilar i can get -45c

there is any other good mod? :P

and i can't buy r507 here in portugal in bottles <10kg :( 10kg is to mutch and to expensive

cumps
10-09-2003, 11:21 AM
bowman1964

1 Attachment(s)

Ok guys i have went ahead and pulled some infor for everyone.here is the specs on just 404a and 507a

and you can see the actuall differance in the makeup and temp between the 2.
now you can see the actuall differance...no hype here just the facts:D
10-09-2003, 11:32 AM
charlie

about 1C?
10-09-2003, 11:42 AM
bowman1964

Quote:

Originally posted by charlie
about 1C?

Yep very close to the same. only .5c really

and this is one of the best charts i have found...so you guys can look at all of them ...here it is...in pdf format.

http://www.refron.com/InfoCenter/Tec...g_Data_Sum.pdf
10-09-2003, 11:46 AM
Unseen

cool
10-09-2003, 12:49 PM
Tom Holck

Re: Re: Hi Ricky

Quote:

Originally posted by |RickY|
:slobber: how u get that temperatures? only with a charge of r404a i get -41c full load at 1.8 with an extra 1,2meter of 0.7mm capilar i can get -45c

there is any other good mod? :P

and i can't buy r507 here in portugal in bottles <10kg :( 10kg is to mutch and to expensive

cumps

As Bowman offen have said: test and ajustment;)

I use a huge akkumulator-drier on the returntube.
The kap-tube is twisted around the return tube.
The tube to the radiator is subcooled with a vapochill!
Big fan on the radiator and the kompressor
--And a little more!

You can get R507 from a A/C- company you only need 60 g
bring the prommy to them, it cost almost nothing...
10-09-2003, 03:58 PM
captaincascade

Quote:

Originally posted by bowman1964
Ok guys i have went ahead and pulled some infor for everyone.here is the specs on just 404a and 507a

and you can see the actuall differance in the makeup and temp between the 2.
now you can see the actuall differance...no hype here just the facts:D

lol, but they where so happy bowman,,,,, why did ya have ta go and break the bubble..... isnt 507 just 404a with a tad of 23?
10-09-2003, 05:57 PM
bowman1964

Quote:

Originally posted by captaincascade
lol, but they where so happy bowman,,,,, why did ya have ta go and break the bubble..... isnt 507 just 404a with a tad of 23?

well i should have pulled the specs up a while back..

i coulnt remember excate ,was thinking 1 or 2 c differ.

the next step in refrigerant would be 410 i would think.but that will be too much i believe for prometia compressor to handle.
10-10-2003, 12:13 AM
Tom Holck

1 Attachment(s)

Hi JCV

Quote:

Originally posted by JCviggen
Hmm I believe I got around 1100 CPU with an FX-51 in 3D 03 :eek: I am sure it was well past a thousand I believe it was in the low 1100s at 2.85 GHz

Can you do it again, an upload to ORB.
It alwais interesting to compair results.

FUGGER 977
Tom Holck 975 at 4320 Mhz

CPU 1 FUGGER long ahead. CPU 2 I am a little better, same MOB, and CPU, but FUGGER ES lover multiplier.
FX-51 might be very fast in CPU1 ? :bows:

::Thanks for make it clear Bowman
10-11-2003, 09:52 PM
Charles Wirth

http://fugger.netfirms.com/4764.jpg
10-12-2003, 10:53 AM
Popcicle

Damn...... 4764 Mhz.

..... gives me a woodie.
10-12-2003, 01:13 PM
Raptor

What About R410a?

I have a Kryotech R404a, and i plan to change the gas and use it in my A64 3200+... :)
10-12-2003, 02:28 PM
Charles Wirth

The Kryotech Americold compressor is a low RPM/Quiet compressor. I dont think it performs as well as the Danfoss. I got a 404a one too at work.
12-03-2003, 02:25 PM
Zejtan

Fugger,
im in the middle of tunning a mach1 from 134 to 507,
but i have a problem with the temp sensors....

when i get down to -55
the display goes er0 and er5,
i got rid of the er5 by setting it down to -65, but
er0 is still in the display not alowing me to see the temp,

so plz, tell me what to do.

:confused:
12-04-2003, 12:16 AM
Charles Wirth

You have to ignore it and push the reset button on the Mach1 when the alarm sounds.

I will take the time to find that damn buzzer this weekend and upload some pics on how to disable it.
12-04-2003, 11:22 AM
Zejtan

is it possible to "kill" the "er0" so that i will se the temp insted ? , i dont give a f-word about any "error's" =) its not my rig, and the dude that ownes it is 5200 Km away from where i live. but lets hope he doesnt read this post anyway,
i would be wery happy if you could help me out on this one, i know the refrigeration-system but the electrical is as fun as it can get... not...
will post some pic's soon if the owner alows it =)
12-04-2003, 11:34 AM
Charles Wirth

Chilly1 is working on moving the sensor back to measure the superheat instead of the evap head. This would stop the error mode. But the peson who owns the mach would have to understand where they are reading temp from and it will never get to error mode again.
12-04-2003, 12:56 PM
sharp

Hi Fugger,woud compressor made for r404,r507 withstand the pressure of r410?
12-04-2003, 02:33 PM
Charles Wirth

Yes, I am running R410 in a compressor made for R404/507

SC12MLX likes the R410, no start/restart problems experainced so far.
12-04-2003, 03:21 PM
NinCom

Intresting reading !
Nice FUGGER ;)
I will do the r404a mod to my prometeia mach 1.. I will go to my local AC store and do it. How much should i lengthen the cap tube for best load temps ? Any thing else to think about ?
12-04-2003, 08:59 PM
gabbax

Quote:

Originally posted by Zejtan
is it possible to "kill" the "er0" so that i will se the temp insted ? , i dont give a f-word about any "error's" =) its not my rig, and the dude that ownes it is 5200 Km away from where i live. but lets hope he doesnt read this post anyway,
i would be wery happy if you could help me out on this one, i know the refrigeration-system but the electrical is as fun as it can get... not...
will post some pic's soon if the owner alows it =)

i read everything dude:D , and asu said, i dont give a XXXX about the errors, just nice numbers:toast: Hope u solve this mr T

Yes and i alow it, post some nice pics:p:
12-05-2003, 11:27 AM
sharp

Thanks Fugger,must i change capilary going from r404 to r410?
How much space shoud it be ,betwene end of capilary and botton of evap(2,3mm)?
12-05-2003, 12:02 PM
JBELL

Re: R507 modded MachI

Quote:

Originally posted by FUGGER
Ive been running for over a week now and I have been monitoring compressor temp and the overall system.

I did not extend the cap tube, just a straight charge of R507 and some tuning.

I had to reset the alarm temp to -65c

I can reach 4.2Ghz on stock voltage and boot into windows. I might be able to reach 4.3Ghz on stock voltage.

Less than stock voltage @ 4Ghz running PCMark.
http://fugger.netfirms.com/4stock.jpg

Running 3D my MachI display will warm up to -51c

My compressor maxes around 115c so I know enough refridgerant is getting back to the compressor.

No start problems at all and no popping oil.

My only problem is my display reads Er0 from one minute after I turn the unit on till I turn it off.

This by far beats 134a badly.

Benchmarks this weekend

so when can we mod mine?
12-05-2003, 01:54 PM
Charles Wirth

JB, whenever you are ready. I got gas
12-05-2003, 01:55 PM
Charles Wirth

I used existing cap tube (approx 10 feet didnt measure)

and charged the system accordingly.
12-05-2003, 04:38 PM
chilly1

You don't need to change the cap tube length... You charge accordingly. For r410 there is the need to use a hydrocarbon refrigerant additive to the system to keep oil from causing problems. R410 needs polyolester oil which 404/507 compressors use. It is all a matter of balance. The prometeia units I have modded the head pressure under P4 laod is only 195 psi.
12-06-2003, 03:09 AM
DisposableHero

nice work fugger... wanted to change the gas on mine forever, but dont want to have to extend the tubing.. unless of core the A/C company can do everything for me...

wonder how much they would charge
12-06-2003, 03:22 PM
serialkiller

I had my machII filled with r507 a while ago, but temps are not on the good side all the time.
I think there just isnt enough of it, the compressor seems to have a lack of power, so i think there just aint enough of r507 in it...

i would like to have it refilled, but what would be the best way?

1) Have the 'old' r507 removed and refill it with exactely enough new refrigant.

2) Let some A/C company refill it in small steps, like per gram till it should be enough?

-> I really have no idea how much of r507 they have put in it and if its even real r507 (i know, dont tell)

so how much of the r507 should i put in then? (total)
12-06-2003, 09:08 PM
Charles Wirth

When you have a tech refill your unit, evac it first and then wet charge it. turn it on and set it around 4 inches of vacuum. You should get plenty of cooling back to the compressor. pull it down to 6 inches and you will get a little colder and less cooling back to the compressor.

Dont forget to add a small amount of gas before you pull the hoses to compensate for the loss of removing the hose.

Once set, do not adjust the charge or put hoses back on unless you plan on refilling the unit.

Make sure the tech purges his lines and that he has the gauge calibrated to zero before you start so you will know exactly where zero is.

When you send in charge, do it in small bursts.

The R507 bottle should always be upside down when charging.

With no load the compressor should form ice under the suction line or be very cold. With a load the compressor will warm up some. Make sure you run with the side installed, you need the airflow across the compressor.
12-09-2003, 05:03 AM
NinCom

Fugger;
If i charge with r507 to my promme mach1 , do i need to have the fans on fullspeed all the time ?

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