Printable View
Hi all,
Do you know if the Fuzion NB block that comes with the Asus Striker II Extreme is made of copper or if it has some aluminium on it (I don't know if the top is just nickel plated or if it is made from alu)?
Also, how can you get 1/2" tubing to fit on it? Adapters? Is there any aftermarket block we can use without removing the heatpipe-heatsink stuff?
Thanks.
It includes white adapters to use any size tubing. However, it looks ridiculously stupid.
You basically have these small crappy tubes, which were included, going from the block to these big white plastic adapters.
Also, it's copper and seems to have some aluminum on the top.
I suggest using 3/8" tubing so you don't need those lame adapters.Quote:
Originally Posted by EchoBlack4
Thanks. I have found a pic of the adapters that come for the block of a Maximus Formula SE, which seems to be similar.
http://www.clunk.org.uk/images/maximus/IMG_1006.jpg
I agree, they are lame and crappy besides being total flow killers. A total :bananal::bananal::bananal:
Another surprise, it seems that the heatsink stuff, though looks like copper, isn't copper actually but copper or brass coated aluminium (???)
http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/712-post4.html
Does anybody know how good this fusion thing performs? I think I am going to replace it for a more decent aftermarket setup unless it really performs good (which seems doubtful).
Thanks.
http://hardwarelogic.com/news/132/AR...008-04-28.html
crap review but it does comment on the quality of those fittings
I ordered EK blocks for my S2E, so i dont mind tearing mine apart for you guys.Quote:
After adding the Fusion Block System to the water cooling loop using the included parts, I could not reach a tight seal and ran into leaks on three separate attempts! Swapping out the tubing and clamps with our own solved the issue which points an angry finger at ASUS' parts.
the nb heatsink is not copper as previously stated... looks like alu painted copper colour
I managed to rip the water block off the alu heatsink, it seems to just be glued on, but it does look like the water block is all copper.
so you have a sandwich of copper base plate, aluminium heatsink, copper water block.
from the looks of it thermal performance will be bad due to the glue and it'll be a flow killer due to the small tubes... id be interested to see results from people who have actually used it.
Thanks, this has been of great help. If it had 1/2" fittings I would give it a try (after replacing the glue crap for some Artic Silver Ceramic). Sad since the concept looked good... :shakes:
So I have the Blitz Formula SE with the Fusion block and I have it with my D-Tek Fuzion V1 and MCW60. My pump is currently the MCP350. I use 7/16 ID Masterkleer tubing and use the kit that comes with the MB to convert from the 3/8" to the 7/16" (1/2" barbs in the kit). I ran it before as a separate loop and adding it into my current loop did not increase/hurt my temps. The bonus is that my NB temps went from 50c under load to never being above 38c under load. Now for the bad news, it has not allowed me to increase my O/C. In fact any review on the Blitz states that while it does lower the temps it won't help in the overclocking. That being said, I did read on many forums that the Blitz becomes unstable if the NB starts to go over 50c, so in that sense it does help. I only did it because I didn't want to have to replace the entire heatsink with separate heatsinks, although a lot of people do. If you go with 3/8" tubing you don't have to use the ugly conversion kit. Here are a couple of pics of mine:
Utnorris
Get a blow dryer and heat that bad boy off.
Did it with mine though You should search up on Heatsink removal in these forums.
My system has full Aqua-Computer's Plug&Cool loop using 8mm PU tubing 8 mm/6 mm.
Is there any hope of connecting this fusion block to my loop?
Maybe its possbile to remove the fusion block and replace it with another block that fits in the same spot?
Like aftermarked fusion block for the same spot.
you would need to replace the fuzion block with nb mosfet and sb (or a heatsink is a popular choice) because its all linked up with heat pipes
Yes, but why not just replace Fusion block? It will be much cheaper an faster solution.
http://www.pvxbuilds.com/water.jpg
rip it all off & water that BadBoy down u'll be happy in the long run !
Yes, but I still think that replacing only the fusion block it self will be MUCH cheaper and faster solution. Specially with popularity of this MB - I think its not that bad idea and there will be people who will replace Fusion block.
Regardless what people reported this block can't leak. Its solid. Lock on the top - is just a fusion plate without any function.
Demensions of the Fusion block is: 36 x 36 mm
http://www.pvxbuilds.com/AsusSIIE/1.jpg
http://www.pvxbuilds.com/AsusSIIE/3.jpg
http://www.pvxbuilds.com/AsusSIIE/4.jpg
http://www.pvxbuilds.com/AsusSIIE/7.jpg
its pretty hard to get off mate... I had to distroy mine to get it off. Those two little screws do nothing... the block is superglued to the heatsink.
Use a hair dryer on high setting. Heat up the back of the board. Use a flat screw driver and do just a little twist and off it come without any damage at all. Took mine off with ease. Without the heat I would have destroyed the board trying to take it off. They used two different pastes. The grey stuff that seemed to be pre-applied to the blocks and white stuff on top of that. Makes it like glue or heck perhaps it is glue.Quote:
Originally Posted by b@llz0r
Any other tips for removing the fusion block? I tried heating the block, I cant get a screw driver under it. I also tried some blunt force with a block of wood and a hammer after heating it up and it still wont budge.
Hey Utnorris, try bumping up the VTT and NB Voltages. Temperature is usually not the restraint, rather lack of power to the components. As long as you don't get too crazy, your system will be safe....Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
i'm in the same probQuote:
Originally Posted by Fusion2002
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/biblfra7nbsb.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/biblfra7nbsb.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
Any signs of corrosion?
My main concern is whether the full water block itself is copper or if the top is alu or plated alu, we all know how well plated alu works :/
If it's just a mildly performing copper block I might add mine into my loop, it would make sense seeing as I'm having a hard time keeping it under 60C. (S2E)
People mention it's glued on, could taking it off and sticking it back on with a thermal adhesive help performance or do you think the glue already has good thermal properties?
All you have to do is add rubbing alcohol around it, and twist it off, i have removed lots of artic silver adhesive stuck on heatsinks with rubbing alcohol, use a eye dropper and put it around the block, and work it off, it wont hurt your board. Dont pull up, you will maybe crack the board, TWIST IF OFF.
I just got this board, and also can't seem to get JUST the fusion waterblock removed from the heatsink/heatpipe assembly. Did anyone actually get this thing off? or should i take my dreml to it?
My opinion get rid of the whole nb, its garbage, i tried to remove waterblock, no way, so i trashed the nb, removed all the heatpipes, and made a custom nb block, and sb block, , cheapest heatpipe assembly i seen, thats why the board stock runs so freaking hot. Im have a good overclock and 37c idle and mid 40s fullload on custom blocks.
Really? It looks so much more substantial to the p5n32-e sli plus, and p5n-t deluxe... Not to mention it's all screw secured now?Quote:
Originally Posted by neo mike
Were you able to use the mosfet elements for the power components? Or did you use thermalright hr-05's(I happen to have two HR-05's sitting here).
i have mine in the loop, i didnt use any converters, i simply have my cpu block out port on a 3/8 barb, and the barb to my res is a 3/8 barb as well... i cant say my flow has been affected, my temps (i dont know) i never ran it out of the loop, and there has not been any signs of corrosion (for the 6 months its been in the loop). when i take the system apart, i will confirm this by taking out my dtek and inspecting it.
I think when I next service my rig I'll probably just stick the NB block in there seeing as I'm loosing the whole benefit of water cooling by needing two small fans on the PWN heatsinks as well as one resting on my GPU facing the NB to keep that stupid thing cool >.<
Edit: Corrosion affects only the Aluminium, only Copper or both? (As in which gets eaten).
Because if it's only the aluminium might as well just stick it in the loop, if it is indeed made of aluminium then it will get corroded, next service I simply don't include it, nothing lost?
That is because they are one piece. You have to remove the entire thing and replace all the sinks. What fun - huh?Quote:
Originally Posted by zoson
Why are those two screws there? Others here have said they managed to get it off, but it was very difficult. Heat guns and such to heat superglue to melting and whatnot...Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeH
I did find that you can replace the whole thing and get the EK NB S-MAX waterblock for the northbridge(the four mounting holes match from this block).
I was really hoping I could slap my mcw30 on the existing heatpipe assembly and just get heat away from the entire board that way.
I have taken the heatpipe assembely off of a rampage formula. I took all the pins and screws out and then, put the mother board in an anti static bag, taping it closed, and put the mother board in the freezer for 30 mins. The cold will make the thermal paste brittle. The i just pulled up on the south bridge lightly tell it popped off, then the same for the NB. Though a twist might be better on the NB if possible.
We're not talking about removing the heatpipe assembly, we've got that off. Mine came off without any trouble at all. I want to remove the fusion waterblock from the heatpipe assembly itself, and replace it with a swiftech mcw30. Then put the whole assembly back on.Quote:
Originally Posted by pby5cat
http://www.pvxbuilds.com/AsusSIIE/1.jpg
http://www.pvxbuilds.com/water.jpg
The block looks solid, and its the glue that is the problem i gather. So I would freeze the whole thing for an hour, then put it in a vice. stick a strong screwdriver inside one barb and pry it off. Twisting would be good by using the side walls of the waterblock to apply pressure.