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Over at ocpulse i was just able to aqquire a new case modding supply company working on great new products. The company is based out of china, and are currently working on getting resellers in the USA. I was especially intrigued at this new line of fan controller that they have coming out over the next 2 weeks. I thought you guys would be interested as well as it can handle up to 30watts per channel ;)
http://www.ocpulse.com/sponsors/Lamp...newsletter.jpg
WoW ! does it come in black. Looks perfect for me, cept the LEDs. But at least its equal to the rheobus extreme without a plastic shield and finally the power connector is on the right side !
but where is the adjustments, it looks like it's just 7 or 12v toggle.
I like the ability to adjust a little more sensitive
but it looks cool, I'l stick with my sunbeamtech extreme
Uh, oh. Noob time.
Glad I saw this. I've been trying to bone up on controllers lately, but this is the first I've seen that it makes a difference where the power connector sits. Please expain.
Thanks!
Yes it comes in black ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ar3s
Nice! If that mesh was silver it would match my case (variant of the lian-li pc65b). :D
cant wait to get the review sample of this thing in, i may have to order a gigantic delta fan to put it to the test too :)
That looks like a really cool fan controller, but I think they should also make a version with turning knobs instead. :)
rumor has it something like that is in the works, but i cant say for sure as i dont have anything official :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Moneyless
I do want to point out that this is just a string of 3 position toggles, that switch between the 12v and 5v lines of the incoming molex connector. So the 30W rating is probably actually a bad thing, as any decent switch should be able to handle much more than that.
Remember this is NOT a potentiometer or a PWM variable controller, this is a switch. Decent switches are typically rated to >10 Amps.
Knobs are more difficult as a 3 position rotary switch is considerably more expensive, and typically are rated to much less amps.
In other words, anyone can run to Radioshack and build all the electronics for this device for a few bucks.
That said, it is in fact a pretty fine looking piece of hardware, and good if you don't need variable control. Pricing would be a key feature.
navig
I like it. That's a fan controller that's 85% done right to me. The other 15% is divided between the fact that the particular style of LED usage would drive me bonkers and that I think there's still room for 5% more improvement in the aesthetics (but that's personal). Still, not a bad product. I hope to see more of this company in the future.
It may not be hardwired using 12/5 for 7V.
There are other fan controllers on the market that are 12V/7V/0V switches that simply use potentiometers that you can't easily control (i.e., with a knob the front).
This is one:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...2e455a9c7a660e
30W is already in the realm of possibility of conventional resistor/transistor pairs (e.g., Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme) and this may just be 12V/off and then have the third setting locked at 7V via non-adjustable resistance.
Personally, I would not put a product on the market that could provide 150W at 7V using the 5V as 'ground.' Way too much potential damage to the PSU.
That said, I mostly prefer switches over knobs (yeah, less adjustability, but you know exactly what your fan is doing, and I don't have use for more than two fan speeds), so hopefully this will force other switch-based controllers on the market :)
so you feel that switching between the 2 or 3 presets.
5 - 7 and 12 is the better solution?
I just never thought of it that way, I always thought of it using Pots.
interesting that you should say that vapor, gona inquire a little bit more about that, cant wait to see it first hand though
Personally, yeah, I prefer presets.
My Zalman fan controllers that I modded have 4 rheobuses with 5V floors and 10.5V ceilings, and 2 12v/5v hardwire switches (i.e., I pull out the 5V wire when it's on the 5V setting, the fan stops--and it can hold 6+ San Aces at once at 5V :p:--it's actually hardwired). So even my rheobus switches have quasi-presets because of the floor and ceiling: 10.5V and 5V...and then a no-man's land middle ground that I never use.
Then again, I also use fans that are the 'right' fans at both 5V and 10.5/12V :p:
There is nothing military grade about that it's cheapo bottom end toggle switches that you get in hobby shops and radio shack .
those switches are found on military helicopters and such thus the name. It didn't say it was military grade, did it ?
The ones on military helicopters are completely different as they don't have plastic backs and the contacts are made so they can't arc and the toggle has a protective flange either side to stop them getting sideways pressure to protect them.
Just cause it's a toggle does not make it any more a military switch than a ford focus steering wheel makes it a F1 racing wheel.
But this "baybus allows you to be a professional modder!" right? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Digz
hehehe :D
Yes, I am assuming, but I think from what I can see of the backside wiring, it's probably an accurate guess.
As Vapor suggests, such a switching mechanism should generally not be limited by the switch/wiring, but rather on how safely your power supply can switch to a sudden increase 5v load.
For those not entirely sure of what the difference is between switching and potentiometer, a switching bay bus just switches your output voltage that is already supplied by any 4 pin molex connector. Your psu natively puts out 12v (yellow wire) and 5v (red wire), so you can switch between 12v, 7v (12-5=7), 5v, or off. For example, pp's sells a cable that allows you to do this. These bay buses merely provided an easy way of switching between the lines. The plus side, as a general rule the switching mechanism can handle any load (as I mention above most switches can handle >5 >10 Amps). The down side, if you are using crazy draw fans, your powersupply itself may have difficulties suddenly accomodating large draws--when you switch from 12v to 7v, suddenly the 5v line goes from a no-load, to a medium sized load, immediately.
Other fan controllers use a potentiometer, that is a variable resistor, to add resistance to the voltage. The downsides to a pot, are that they generate much heat as you can see by the classic Sunbeam the pot is mated to a heatsink. Another downside, is that unless you build in a shunt, the max voltage to the fan will be about 11.8v. The upside is that you can variable voltage, all the way down to below the fan starter voltages. The amount of amps that a pot can handle depends on the quality of the pot.
The last mechanism is to use a PWM type transistor, that will pulse voltage quickly to approximate the target voltage. These generate less heat, but typically (for most fan controller on the market) can not handle as many amps as a quality pot (with a heatsink).
End of lecture!
Thats good info and i forwarded this whole thread over to the company.
Can't get an accurate 7V using resistors, as fans vary in resistance so widely. So there must be some active components in there. I'm betting PWM as I don't see the large heatsinks required for analog.
.bh.
I'll have to look into this. I wanna replace my rhoebus oldie.
ill contact the company tonight, and see what the progress is on this
talked to the company, i have a review sample schedule to come as soon as they get the official product in stock, ill keep everyone updated
Eagerly awaiting your review. This is much more attractive than Sunbeam's offerings and if it performs as rated, I'll be all over 2 of them. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Spawne32