can you give us an ETA on these please iandh. I really want to get my graphics cards back on water and am waiting till petras gets yours in stock.
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can you give us an ETA on these please iandh. I really want to get my graphics cards back on water and am waiting till petras gets yours in stock.
+1 here :) I need a set badly.
They're done.
Should be at petra's tomorrow or wednesday, sidewinders will arrive shortly after. :)
Awesome thanks :D
sweet thank you, i'm off tomorrow so i'll be able to order them right away hehe
Available at petra's now btw
What water block are you guys using for your 9800gtx? Nice Memory & VRM cooling kit iandh!
Do we need TIM pads to use these sinks or can we use MX-2 or AC5?
I would use ceramique.Quote:
Originally Posted by spider_d
i'm going to use the D-TEK fuzion graphics, from the way it looks it will work because it has about the same footprint as the MCW60 that everybody is using. can't wait till they get here tuesday. Thanks for that info as well Trice, i was actually gonna ask that same qustion, i wasn't sure if TIM pads would be needed or not.
TIM pads are compatible, but a good thermal paste is recommended. I also prefer ceramique for this application.Quote:
Originally Posted by moose517
I used mx-2
Its non-conductive, doesn't have to cure and works fine universally.
Thanx Iandh I was wondering if we needed TIM. As little as possible??
I'm also getting this and a d-tek GFX :D
Why are you going for the D-tek block, the MCW60 has much less restriction.
EDIT, I'm dumb
Not quite... The D-Tek FuZion GFX should perform better than the MCW60 on bare-die GPU's but, as you mentioned, it does so at the cost of overall system flowrate due to its rather high pressure drop. Now, if you're handy with a drill and have some small-ish drill bits, you can very easily reduce the pressure drop of the FuZion GFX (though, I haven't established how much of an impact on performance this modification results in).Quote:
Originally Posted by aspire.comptech
The D-tek performs better and I will only have gpu + nb in that loop :)
Basically enough TIM to cover each chip well. Sometimes it takes a couple of fits to get perfect contact. A circuit board is hardly a flat precision surface; some are quite warped.
Put a dab on each component, screw down the sinks gently, remove them, add more TIM as needed to any chips with bad contact, and then adjust the rest out using the screws. :up:
I ordered a black anodized set of these today from Petra's Tech Shop. I can keep my MCW60 for a fourth video card! I love the idea of full cover, but that would have been over $400 and I've spent more like $100 with good or better performance.
I have used ramsinks in the past and I am sick of the added effort. I am trying to reduce the number of times that I pull off a Vreg or mem chip (happened twice now).
Thanks Iandh and thanks Petra for the fantastic, way above average, better then any dealer that I've dealt with, service! It's almost like the guys at Petra's enjoy their jobs and enjoy delighting their customers.
That's because we do :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by spider_d
Quoc and I do this whole bit because we love helping the community in any way that we can (it's just convenient that the method of helping we've chosen occasionally allows us to buy food ;) ).
And the occasional BMW :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Petra
:rofl: :ROTF: :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by aspire.comptech
Hey, you leave my leased South African tax write-off out of this... :para:Quote:
Originally Posted by aspire.comptech
...or I'm going to have to tell everyone about that extravagant bicycle of yours :p: ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by aspire.comptech
Yup read on one of thereviews compairing all the best of them that mx-2 came in 2nd & is non=conductive with no cure time and lasts for at least 8 years
Quoc has been the best help i've ever had !Quote:
Originally Posted by Petra
these guy's are great
still pulling my rig together
anybody pull all the stock cooling off yet ? & what did you replace it with ? I'm testing the mobo tomorrow to make sure it's not DOA & them off with stock cooling (freeZe sounds the best way ) gotta go.... just got the box from Quoc some extra goodies L O L ! one day service thanx Q
I wish I had an extravagant bicycle...Quote:
Originally Posted by Petra
Damn thing only lets me shift when its in a good mood, and even then it doesn't ever let me get into 3rd gear on the main sprocket...
Also my rear tire seems to have a small leak so that after a bout 2 days it will get flat. And I've been too lazy to fix it. lol
Ha! I don't believe you'll have a bmw in s.a.
1. It'll be stolen before you know What colour it is.
2. Taxes make cars very expensive here :-P not to mention our interest rate..
Yep, here's a link.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigslappy
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...8&postcount=10
and that link is from this thread.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/....php?p=2897908
GL
Actually, I was debating between calling it a German tax write-off or a South African tax write-off because, while it may be a "German" car, it was assembled in South Africa, the transmission was built in France, and the engine was built in Germany.Quote:
Originally Posted by I34z1k
/OT
Lol. Never knew south africa Exported. Well only noble. Nice to know.
Anyway, i'll drop you an e mail again. I might want to get a couple more fans and um to sort out payment.
OK, iandh, got them in today, now, does the little plastic washers go on top of the card between it and the heatsinks or does it go under the card? reason i ask is there is quite a bit of space between them with the washers put on.
It should act as a contact buffer between the card and the nut. Im going to assume it goes on the backside of the card, where the nut holds it on.Quote:
Originally Posted by moose517
The washers should be under the screw head on the backside of the card, and not between the card and the sink. They are to prevent the scewheads from touching any leads on the board, and act as a cushion between the metal screw head and the card.
The sinks should be tightened on gently, only enough to bend the card slightly, so there should never be contact with the sinks and anything but the ram and vrm chips.
ok, thank you guys, great heatsinks by the way iandh, they are of really good quality. Had to switch my graphics card mounting plate, forgot that it was for the g80 cards i used to have and had to switch to the others so i had to drain the loop to change them. Leak testing it now and will reinstall the card in a few hours.
Can these be mounted with no TIM?
No, you need to use some kind of thermal compound/pad.
Ok, the reason why I asked is that I had nothing on them fine for a number of days, then put Ceramique on the chips and mounted the heatsinks and blammo artifacts galore......
Have you tested the card without any heatsinks on it?
Otherwise I can't say the ceramique would have done anything bad...
Yeah, cleaned everything, tried it with nothing on again and no go, put stock stuff on, no go........
:(
Man, good thing you have an eVGA.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trice
I had something similar to an X800XL I bought from ebay... the previous owner had forgotten to apply thermal paste. When I Got the card, it ran perfect, but I noticed temps were high.
I removed the cooler to see why, and no paste. :( I put on Ceramique as well (my fav) and as soon as I got to the post screen, green artifacts all over. Once I got into windows it was fine, but as soon as I went into 3d mode, game over. Looked like trash. Card went in the trash. :cool:
Sounds like you must have inadvertently killed something...
Time for rma...
Yeah RMA was already started, I was just like WTF when I had the card running perfect with just a waterblock on it, then as soon as I installed the sinks kerplunk.
Kerplunk?
:O
You not trying to say that thermal paste conducts electricity?
Thats not what I said at all really, I know some do, but Ceramique is said to not. New card is A ok though :D
Funny Thrice, I have just had the saem problem. I get green artifacts all over the place. This began after instaling the heatsinks. The card ran fine for weeks on stock cooling, then fine for a few minutes with waterblock, then installed the ramsinks and the card started artifacting.
I am going to try the card with waterblcok only tomorrow and see if that helps. I think it may be shorting somewhere. We will see.
How tight are you tightening the sinks? If you crank the screws down harder than snug, you will warp the board, and you will damage it, and very likely could create a short as the tolerances are tight.Quote:
Originally Posted by spider_d
The sinks fit perfectly on evga reference cards, but you should always inspect your individual board for compatibility before mounting the sinks.
Thanks Iandh,
I removed the ramsinks, applied more TIM and did not tighten the sinks down any more than snug. They are working well and I have the card clocked to 840/1200 easily. I glued a few copper sinks onto the hottest parts of your ramsinks to increase the surface area and they seem to get warm too. It's working great!
These things really cannot be tightened too much before you start to cause problems. Follow Iandh's advice, and not much more than finger tight is enough.
The tolerances are a bit tighter in the 9800GTX sinks than they were on the 8800GT ones, so I have heard a couple people shorting the resistors over by the VRM's by accidentally overtightnening.Quote:
Originally Posted by spider_d
I have noticed that some full cover blocks are starting to include little standoffs over the screwholes, so perhaps overtightening has become a concern for those block makers as well.
Basically you just want to tighten enough to squeeze out the TIM, many people think "crush" because of CPU's, but with these if you tighten too much and warp the board, it will actually tilt the chips and reduce contact, and as we have seen possibly short.