Taking TJ07 to the next level (3 Loops)

I'm revising my entire loop. Everything is done except for getting the smaller res and a few other small things. Case looks great, black interior -- lined almost entirely with sound dampening material. All wires hidden to the full extent that I can without soldering the motherboard.

Previously had a loop of Pump>GPU>SB>NB>CPU>Mosfet>Mosfet>220 Rad>Y(with fillport)>Bay res>Pump>220 Rad>320 Rad>Pump

It was ridiculous. Got good flow, and good temps, but I've decided I'm not satisfied yet.

http://i31.tinypic.com/hs9fvb.jpg

How does XtremeSystems feel about this?

Thats similar to an idea I was kicking around, only with an MCR320 at the top. Still don't know if 3 loops are needed, though.

The only thing I'm a little iffy on is if the MCR220/320 would fit at the top, with fans, and still clear the motherboard / Mosfet coolers. I know people are using Black Ice units up there, but they are a wee bit thinner than the MCRs.

If you do get the MCR in the top, let me know! I don't have a case to play with at the moment. :shrug:

no mem or hdd cooling? :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CodeNinja

Thats similar to an idea I was kicking around, only with an MCR320 at the top. Still don't know if 3 loops are needed, though.

The only thing I'm a little iffy on is if the MCR220/320 would fit at the top, with fans, and still clear the motherboard / Mosfet coolers. I know people are using Black Ice units up there, but they are a wee bit thinner than the MCRs.

If you do get the MCR in the top, let me know! I don't have a case to play with at the moment. :shrug:

---

Yeah, I fit it in the top. It took a lot... a lot of working with it. I had to dremel through a lot of the metal at the top of the rad to get a few extra mm's to fit it up there, along with severely modding the fans so that they are thinner and detatched at the center, going a little bit closer to the fins of the rad. In the process, I have a hole in my rad. If I can fix it with epoxy, that'd be awesome. Otherwise, I'll see if I can't solder it pretty good.

Also, FYI: it would be MUCH easier if you didn't have a top mosfet block. I clear the motherboard quite easily with very little modding. What I really had to heavily work my way around was the fan blades hitting the block.

In the end, it all comes down to whether or not you'll do whatever physically possible to make it fit. Given the chance to go back in time, I might have simply bought the black ice rad. Or opened up the hole hole at the top of the case by a lot to move it up (In which case I would have made it longer and fit a triple rad)

Hope that helps.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 3lfk1ng

no mem or hdd cooling? :)

---

Some day. Given the money, time, and lack of anything else to do. My RAM has nice heatsinks on them, along with my own air cooling solution (Couple of nice small fans velcro'd onto them).

As for the hard drive, I again have an air cooling solution. There's just so much I could do to my build to attain actual performance boosts, and I'll get around to watercooling the hdd and mem when I'm out of anything to do more than purely aesthetics.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by daedality

In the end, it all comes down to whether or not you'll do whatever physically possible to make it fit. Given the chance to go back in time, I might have simply bought the black ice rad. Or opened up the hole hole at the top of the case by a lot to move it up (In which case I would have made it longer and fit a triple rad)

Hope that helps.

---

How close is the tolerance? Would it fit if, say, you removed the original meshing and went with an AC Ryan grill? That should move it up the thickness of the case aluminium, at least.

I'm following this very closely! :D

Hey, I'll be watching this one!! I think this'll be a good one.... :D

One suggestion though, don't use a Y piece to for the fillport at the top, use a T line. If you have a Y, then you'll be pushing coolant into the fillport, and thats a no no, you'll also be splitting the pressure.
Us a T line. :up:

that third D5 in the rear will block your psu.

you need to use DDC's.

Im trying to plan out a 4 pump build and i already considered D5's. Its too hard to cramp 3 inside. with 3 radiators.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CodeNinja

How close is the tolerance? Would it fit if, say, you removed the original meshing and went with an AC Ryan grill? That should move it up the thickness of the case aluminium, at least.

I'm following this very closely! :D

---

Well, everything I just said was basically assuming that you've removed the mesh at the top. :up: However, that alone would not necessarily be enough to mount it. I'm sure there are a few motherboards which have something sticking out at the far top that would block it. Without the mosfet block at the top, it should be able to simply mount with an AC Ryan grill and thinning your fans (taking a dremel and shaving off 1-2mm on both sides). What I had to do, however, was take the fan on the far left and chop off the supports for the fan itself, dremel up the fan frame to fit like a key, and gain a few mm of space for the blades by roughly gluing the fan itself to the bulk of the radiator. As for the fan on the right, it fits fine without all that. I may shave it off a little bit with my dremel to gain a little bit more clearance (it sits on the cpu fan port).

ALSO: I had to dremel up my rad. I bent the ends at the top in just a little bit and I'll cut out an AC Ryan panel to fit it once I order the panel. The rad is wider than the hole at the top by a few millimeters, so I basically stepped it. Much like you'd step CPU blocks to fit better.

In the process, I opened up a hole in the rad itself. Just patched it up, going to test it and make sure it's for good. :rolleyes:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by smee

Hey, I'll be watching this one!! I think this'll be a good one.... :D

One suggestion though, don't use a Y piece to for the fillport at the top, use a T line. If you have a Y, then you'll be pushing coolant into the fillport, and thats a no no, you'll also be splitting the pressure.
Us a T line. :up:

---

Well, I wouldn't be pushing fluid into the fillport because it's aligned on the inlet side of the pump.

As for the pressure: that's a concern. From what I understand, however, T lines neutralize the negative pressure of the pump when placed directly at the inlet, meaning the pump is running entirely on positive pressure, resulting in a higher flow rate. I'm hoping the concept is the same for Y fittings. I'll talk to him. :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NaeKuh

that third D5 in the rear will block your psu.

you need to use DDC's.

Im trying to plan out a 4 pump build and i already considered D5's. Its too hard to cramp 3 inside. with 3 radiators.

---

Actually, I disagree entirely. This rig is already built except for the third pump for the NB and Mosfets. That won't be too much trouble mounting.

However, the bottom of the case was one of the absolute hardest orientation to accomplish correctly (aside from maybe my rad at the top). That being said, the pumps that are mounted at the bottom were extremely easy to mount. They have plenty of space to spare, it's a really easy fit. The rads, as well, fit very easily. What was difficult about it was putting the tubing in there with no kinks, and not having the radiators pop out of the case to the point where you are struggling to put the front panel on. I have them somewhat hard-mounted now, so they're in there nice. Absolutely no kinks in tubing. And now that I've separated it all into 3 loops, I eliminated a lot of the mess down there and had room to put in more fans. Both rads are at a full push/pull.

{_PSU_} {_Radiator_} {Pump}
{Pump} . { ____Radiator____ }

Just thought I'd illustrate from an aerial view. It's not easy to see in my 2-dimensional paint drawing. ;)

i know everybody wants to mount the rads inside their cases but why diddn't you use one of the best rads outside??

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/4...neu1cn1.th.jpg

Magicool 240 slim fits in the top without any modification. It is 120mm wide, so the same as the fans. Just an idea.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by daedality

Well, I wouldn't be pushing fluid into the fillport because it's aligned on the inlet side of the pump.

As for the pressure: that's a concern. From what I understand, however, T lines neutralize the negative pressure of the pump when placed directly at the inlet, meaning the pump is running entirely on positive pressure, resulting in a higher flow rate. I'm hoping the concept is the same for Y fittings. I'll talk to him. :D

---

Oh duh! I didn't realize that you were pulling the coolant from the rad, not pushing the coolant through the rad....:rolleyes:
You should be fine, and you won't be splitting the pressure, your also right about the T and Y lines taking the negative pressures :up:

This is going to be one awesome set up!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by qujck

i know everybody wants to mount the rads inside their cases but why diddn't you use one of the best rads outside??

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/4...neu1cn1.th.jpg

---

Reasons:

1. Flow. The pressure drop on the Mora 2 Pro is huge, from what I know.
2. Aesthetics.
3. Level of difficulty. Where's the fun in slapping a radiator on the outside?

Besides. I bet I could still fit another radiator into the case if I had the time and the brainpower. xP Who's to say I won't mount more rads on the outside of my case when I run out of room on the inside & grab some iwakis to compensate for the pressure? ;)




I wouldn't count on that happening, however.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by spider_d

Magicool 240 slim fits in the top without any modification. It is 120mm wide, so the same as the fans. Just an idea.

---

This, too, is a viable option alongside a Black Ice radiator for those who do not want to go through hassle. Too late for me, though. :P: I'm happy with it. Swiftech makes the second best radiators for my purposes and for the price range, right behind Thermochill.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by smee

Oh duh! I didn't realize that you were pulling the coolant from the rad, not pushing the coolant through the rad....:rolleyes:
You should be fine, and you won't be splitting the pressure, your also right about the T and Y lines taking the negative pressures :up:

This is going to be one awesome set up!!

---

Haha, yeah. Hopefully it works just as well in practice as it does in theory.


I'm ordering parts in about ten minutes. Tygon Tubing to replace all my old tubing, the Micro Res, the third pump, AC Ryan mesh grill for the radiator at the top, the C-01 DVD Bezel for DVD drive stealthing, a couple more cables I need. All that's left is setting up the top half of the loop, hiding a few more wires, soldering a few more wires, and 1 or two very minor and mostly non-performance based tasks.

you have to decide if you wants to have high flow or high performance.
high flow doesn't mean high performance.
But this must everybody know for himself.

i like the big rad and with a MCP655 pump there's enough flow rate to have a nice whirlpool in the water reservoir.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by qujck

you have to decide if you wants to have high flow or high performance.
high flow doesn't mean high performance.
But this must everybody know for himself.

i like the big rad and with a MCP655 pump there's enough flow rate to have a nice whirlpool in the water reservoir.

---

Not necessarily. There's been a few tests that I've read which suggested that flow rate had a direct correlation with heat dissipation. If your water isn't moving, it defeats the purpose. I'm sure at a certain point, performance stops getting a gain from flow. Why do you think Martin spends so much of his time doing flow rate tests? ;)

pics?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by disruptfam

pics?

---

In a couple days. It really does look amazing, but it's not so much different from anything you've seen right now. :up: No tubing or anything hooked up. Once the final parts come, I'll be all ready. Maybe I'll run upstairs and grab my camera real quick.

Do it :)

Do it or the kitten dies!! LOL, JK!

K, so I decided to take a few pics.

First off, old loop, leak testing:
http://i26.tinypic.com/i6kufm.jpg

Now, new pics. Not much of a change, but. Every wire is to be hidden. There's a couple wires, like the front panel wires and USB wires that you can see in the following pics, but ignore it. They're to be hidden entirely.

http://i26.tinypic.com/xoe6mc.jpg

http://i26.tinypic.com/34hj2om.jpg

Here, you can see where my hard drive is to be mounted. Under it, is where the pump is to be mounted. ALSO, you can see my tubing hole. Triple whammy!
http://i29.tinypic.com/2dkzddc.jpg

http://i31.tinypic.com/2dh74m0.jpg

http://i26.tinypic.com/avir79.jpg

http://i30.tinypic.com/hu370g.jpg

Tubing hole!
http://i27.tinypic.com/el5ncm.jpg

http://i28.tinypic.com/25pjy2h.jpg

Hopefully, come Wednesday or Thursday, these posts will be less frequent. Not that I don't enjoy this, but the only reason I have so much time for this is that I've been home sick for the past 3 days... I doubt I'll be fine by tomorrow, maybe Thursday. In time for parts. Do not fear, however! I assure you content will never lack! :up:

looking good

Try to keep the pic's a lil smaller :)

What'd you use to mount those fans over the RAM? I have the same board and I'm looking to do something like that, so far all I've come up with are zip ties and d-tek mounting screws.

and try turning the flash off, natrual light will give you WAY better pics

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Pedalmonkey

and try turning the flash off, natrual light will give you WAY better pics

---

yes indeed :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kilyin

What'd you use to mount those fans over the RAM? I have the same board and I'm looking to do something like that, so far all I've come up with are zip ties and d-tek mounting screws.

---

Those are some 70(or so)mm fans held together by zip ties. They're mounted using... drumroll... velcro! One of my favorite things to use for mounting. Strong, cheap, extremely easy, extremely clean, and not permanent.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Pedalmonkey

and try turning the flash off, natrual light will give you WAY better pics

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by disruptfam

yes indeed :D

---

Night time. No natural light. :p: Plus, I can't stand the discolored pixelation that occurs in JPG/JPEG files when taken with a digital camera with the flash off. Of course, in the sunlight, that's not an issue. You can see, the first picture has the flash off... and it just bugs me.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by daedality

{_PSU_} {_Radiator_} {Pump}
{Pump} . { ____Radiator____ }

Just thought I'd illustrate from an aerial view. It's not easy to see in my 2-dimensional paint drawing. ;)

---

oh did you lay out it? Because when i visualizing it, it was more like this:

(D5)( MCR320 )
(PSU )(DDC)(MCR220)

Couldnt think of a way to fit a D5 down there.. :T You have any pics?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NaeKuh

oh did you lay out it? Because when i visualizing it, it was more like this:

(D5)( MCR320 )
(PSU )(DDC)(MCR220)

Couldnt think of a way to fit a D5 down there.. :T You have any pics?

---

Hmm. Well, I might, let me check. No recent pics, but I may have pics fro my old setup. I've moved the radiators a little bit since then, but they're in the same format, as are the pumps.

Just looked, I don't have pictures. I'll get a view of my back and front as it is now then edit this post when I have the pics.

Edit: Behold! I bring you pictures!

http://i29.tinypic.com/r2qebt.jpg

http://i29.tinypic.com/zxmrdh.jpg

Here, we take special note of the voided warranty. :rolleyes:
http://i28.tinypic.com/2r3bn1d.jpg

This is where all my wires collect -- Ones I don't use, or where all my molex connectors connect to each other. All wires lead here. If you can make sense of the wiring (takes a very special type of person to do :rofl:), you'll see I've soldered together my own little molex hub.
http://i26.tinypic.com/2duk0eb.jpg

http://i27.tinypic.com/21erqsw.jpg

Anyway, seeing as how I don't have a good aerial view for you, this is drawn to scale.
http://i27.tinypic.com/2vc6dmt.jpg
Hope that helps!

Again, sorry the pictures are so large! They're just easier to see at a high resolution. Also, it's daytime, better quality!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by daedality

Those are some 70(or so)mm fans held together by zip ties. They're mounted using... drumroll... velcro! One of my favorite things to use for mounting. Strong, cheap, extremely easy, extremely clean, and not permanent.

---

So the fans are just velcroed to the RAM? I've got a big roll of velcro, so I might see how that works out.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kilyin

So the fans are just velcroed to the RAM? I've got a big roll of velcro, so I might see how that works out.

---

Yep! I lubs me some velcro. :D

http://i28.tinypic.com/244phlh.jpg

Update: Turned everything on today to make sure it was all still working... Y'know, been a long time since I've had it running and I've been known to botch things. It all works! I dare not leave it on for more than 2 minutes without substantial cooling, though. Testing fans and stuff, accidentally made them 7v fans, fixed it... some other small things. Tomorrow all of my parts come as well! Tomorrow I change the 92mm exaust fans, bought some blue LED fans to match all my other fans. Just have to tape down all my wiring out of site, set up all my tubing, mount the Pump, mount the hard drive... Wow, this is getting to be a bit lengthy. Also cutting the AC ryan panel out and spraypainting it black (I had to buy silver because I only wanted to order from jab-tech or performancepcs because they both deliver real fast to me. Unfortunately, PerfromancePCs was all out of black mesh panels). I may also spray paint a couple other things black tomorrow, I could of course always do them at a later date. Once that's done, it's all pretty much done... Oh, who am I kidding? It'll never be done, I'm never satisfied. :rolleyes:

Anyway, to give this post a little substance, I present to you some snapshots I took when I booted up the system today to check everything. I even ended up featured in a few.

http://i25.tinypic.com/2vtdy5f.jpg

http://i28.tinypic.com/8y51f9.jpg

omg, it looks like you could fit a MCR320 up there too, but how come people say you cant. :\

Thanks for the pic's, now i need to rethink this build again :up:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NaeKuh

omg, it looks like you could fit a MCR320 up there too, but how come people say you cant. :\

Thanks for the pic's, now i need to rethink this build again :up:

---

Yep, you could. Open up the hole at the top and maybe give up a drive bay or two, you could fit a 320. Not that I've taken measurements. :D

We have some updates as of today! It's late now, been a long day and spent many hours working on the computer and painting. It's all set up, just need to put some clamps on there and fill it up for some leak testing. That's right, it's all done!

Here's some pictures for now:

Pump mounted, as you can see, I used martin's suggested 90 degree bend.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...y/CIMG0174.jpg

Here's my micro res, I may at some later point mount it higher up, under the fans.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...y/CIMG0175.jpg

Apogee GTX, right after having painted it. It looks so good now.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...y/CIMG0177.jpg

These next pics are a little dark:

After EVERYTHING was set up. As you can see, there's the rad, which I've modified to the point of clearing the motherboard and the mosfet block. Fans have room to spin.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...y/CIMG0178.jpg

Here you can see my new fans mounted, with my painted fan grills.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...y/CIMG0179.jpg

This one is very, very,very dark... But... At least you can tell that I painted the back side of my DVD drive black this way it doesn't stand out. It bugged me SO much that it was tan and just sat there.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...y/CIMG0180.jpg

Here's my black mesh grill which mounts the radiator. Notice the fillport.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...y/CIMG0181.jpg

I used to have dual rads in the bottom of mine, but it drove me nuts every time I wanted to work on the bloody thing.

Also, is there a reason that when you replaced your PSU fan, you turned it around? Doesn't seem like a great idea to me tbh....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Linus@ncix

I used to have dual rads in the bottom of mine, but it drove me nuts every time I wanted to work on the bloody thing.

Also, is there a reason that when you replaced your PSU fan, you turned it around? Doesn't seem like a great idea to me tbh....

---

I wish I had one for you. It was a compulsion.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NaeKuh

omg, it looks like you could fit a MCR320 up there too, but how come people say you cant. :\

Thanks for the pic's, now i need to rethink this build again :up:

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by daedality

Yep, you could. Open up the hole at the top and maybe give up a drive bay or two, you could fit a 320. Not that I've taken measurements. :D

---

Check my sig for details on getting an MCR320 in the top.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NicePants42

Check my sig for details on getting an MCR320 in the top.

---

Ooo, yes. When I was first planning on building this rig, I took a look at that on multiple occasions. You, sir, are a bit braver than I. Maybe someday when I have the resources to lengthen the hole at the top without botching it, I'll do the same thing as you. :up:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DerekFSE

I believe you will find this due to the ISO level being too high. If you can, manually turn it down.

---

Yes, I can actually manually set the ISO levels. I'll play around with that later, I had a feeling that it was the answer but never was totally sure, thank you very much. :D

*Updates* - DVD Bezel Mod

Again, sorry for the color in the pictures. It's at least not as dark as it was yesterday, but... The sunlight has just been evading me, so I've been sticking to the light of lamps and the slight sunlight near my window (rainy day), straying away from the flash as discussed previously. These pics are taken right before Derek's suggestion of the ISO, which I'll surely toggle next time I have a set of pictures for you.

First off, I had to remove my panels. I have my dremel workstation in the basement on an old kitchen table, this way I can just let the metal fly. Unfortunately (though maybe fortunate for my health), every time I need a little bit of modification, I have to run down two flights of stairs and back up. Oh well! Since I had everything already screwed in place, I took one panel off at a time, then when I needed the second one, I placed this one back in and screwed everything back together. This way I wouldn't need to assemble everything back into their bays, including mounting my pump, etc. If you're planning on doing this bezel mod, you'd be better off looking at the original bezel mod post, as the cut here isn't big enough towards the top. I eventually needed to either take it all back apart and cut off another inch at the top of both sides, or just modify the bezel itself. I opted for the latter, it's inside the case and it fits just the same.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...y/CIMG0182.jpg

Here's the bezel itself, after chopping the extra flaps off. Again, this picture is not accurate because I had to modify the bezel further to compensate for the incorrect cuts I did on the bay panels.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...y/CIMG0183.jpg

Here she is after the mod was done, doesn't it look great? I'm so glad that somebody realized the C-01 Bezel would fit in this case.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...y/CIMG0184.jpg

Here it is after it's opened up.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...y/CIMG0185.jpg

And another opened up.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...y/CIMG0186.jpg

So, here's what we still have to do: I still have to extend the connector for the fans at the top rad. I originally had a molex on there, but it simply doesn't reach the point where I keep all my wires, so I'll lengthen it and re-solder it. I also have to chop off the 3 pin connectors that my 92mm fans came with, lengthen them, and put molex connectors on them as well. After that's done, and all my wires are in there for good, I'll begin taping them along the top of the divider which separates the bottom from the top of the case, out of sight. I also still need to put some clamps on a few more barbs in my system. I don't think I have enough clamps, but I guess I'll use some zip ties... I really don't trust them. Anybody know if home depot or a local shop carries worm hose clamps?

After that, I'll pad absolutely everything with paper towels, expecting the worse, and unplug all of my important components. I'll fill up one loop at a time, plugging in one pump at a time. I'll then make a connection between the startup wire and ground wires, and probably have a heart attack in anticipation of a leak.

After that, I'm basically done. Expect pictures. Expect me to overclock everything as far as I can possibly go, hopefully not to the brink of breaking anything. I'll also surely give tons of data as to what type of temps I get with this system. I fully expect great things, wish me luck!

A thousand thank you's to Derek, because setting the ISO level to 50 (While it was previously on automatic and probably around 400 every time I took a picture) has really fixed that problem that I had with the grainy color. Unfortunately it has me cursing my shaky hands and deleting photos left and right because it's real sensitive to blur when I don't hold the camera perfect. Thinking about it now, I have a feeling that the ISO level is color correction. It must fill in the color that's distorted because of blurring, fixing the blur but at the same time making high-res pictures look like crap. That's my assumption, at least.

ANYWAY, nobody probably cares about my camera, here's a picture. Just got done soldering some wires for the fans and it looks so good all lit up. All that's left is a little bit of wire hiding (as well as ordering a new black SATA cable, as you can see I broke the connector of mine when pushing it through my mobo tray hole and I'm left with a red one), and then filling up the system.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...y/CIMG0198.jpg

Ahh, the process of leak testing: It has eluded me for so long. Oh how I despise it.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...y/CIMG0206.jpg

At least an hour (I have a horrible concept of time) and no leaks that I can see so far.

time is just created by humans, it doesnt really exist, or it doesnt exist in a sense that is measurable. god i love the physics of deep space. god i need to stop derailing threads.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Pedalmonkey

time is just created by humans, it doesnt really exist, or it doesnt exist in a sense that is measurable. god i love the physics of deep space. god i need to stop derailing threads.

---

I could seriously turn this thread into a science discussion. Furthering what you said -- time travel is technically impossible because neither the past or the future exist, only the present. The present is also something which also exists logically, though "technically" it's a physical thing but can't be classified as such because there'll never be a measurement for time small enough to capture how fast the present moves. ANYWAY. Let's end that there.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Pedalmonkey

time is just created by humans, it doesnt really exist, or it doesnt exist in a sense that is measurable. god i love the physics of deep space. god i need to stop derailing threads.

---

God is also created by man, just a means to explain something complicated to simpletons. Flame shield to maximum!

what rad do you have @ the top?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Waterlogged

God is also created by man, just a means to explain somethingomplicated to simpletons. Flame shield to maximum!

---

Agreed. But let's not turn this into a religion argument, I've seen them get pretty nasty over at the Speak Freely forum. :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by disruptfam

what rad do you have @ the top?

---

MCR-220

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by daedality

Maybe someday when I have the resources to lengthen the hole at the top without botching it, I'll do the same thing as you. :up:

---

Just wanted to make sure you knew that you could get an MCR220 mounted internally with an approach similar to mine, without having to modify the top of the case.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NicePants42

Just wanted to make sure you knew that you could get an MCR220 mounted internally with an approach similar to mine, without having to modify the top of the case.

---

Absolutely. But not when you have a mosfet block at the top. Even if the motherboard clears, the mosfet block does not at all.

And so we have closure. Or do we? I, for one, hope the answer is no! :D

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...y/CIMG0216.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...y/CIMG0211.jpg

Alright, I'm bringing this thread back because I promised some temps once I had a good overclock and officially called this done in terms of overclocking. I can't say that it is still, but at least I'm sticking with this for a while.

Specs and temps, as well as overclocks are in my signature.

I'm really disappointed in the overclock I'm getting with my processor, but it's a bad batch... I can't get it stable at around 3.8GHz, and I'm not an amateur overclocker. I spent days and days trying to break through that wall but this processor is just bad. Too much voltage to get there... Hell, 1.59v is already bad enough for 3.7GHz

All that said, things could be worse. The processor is the only thing holding me back. My board doesn't hit an FSB wall until the mid 500's for me, and my RAM is overclocking like a champ. Hell, it's rated for 800MHz and it easily goes to 1000MHz and beyond, and I have timings of 4-4-4-4 on it right now. Easily very cool at around 2.25-2.3v which isn't too bad for RAM.

Maybe some day I'll find that magical processor that'll give me a 100% overclock. But at least my temps are very good! :up:

Also, I'm getting 13 seconds at 1M of SuperPi, and 13628 in 3DMark 06. And I haven't even gotten my hands on some resistors to do some voltage modding to my 8800 yet.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by daedality

Yep! I lubs me some velcro. :D

http://i28.tinypic.com/244phlh.jpg

---

he he now thats just plain clever....... I love it.

nice work mate... :)

Not a fan of the dye's but thats just me

well done

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by csjsi

he he now thats just plain clever....... I love it.

---

I discovered the beauty of velcro a while back on a different build. It's surprisingly strong, you can mount a lot of things with it... requires absolutely no changing of hardware, no screws, and doesn't look bad. You can use it for almost anything.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by disruptfam

nice work mate... :)

Not a fan of the dye's but thats just me

well done

---

Yeah, having dye in the system is always kind of win-lose. It's a personal preference, I tend to like it. Anyway, thanks. x)

I'm bringing this old build of mine back up in hopes that the mods will move it to XtremeSystems Forums > Cooling > Liquid Cooling > Liquid Cooling Worklogs ?