camouflage has finished his latest cooling project (large pics inside !!!)

:D After returning home from my holidays I took some time now to make some pics of my new cooling system finished end of January.

I decided to use two water loops with two pumps cause my Nexxxos XP hiflow waterblock has only a flow of 300l per hour - but the chiller requirers a minimum of 1000l per hour.

So I bought a second Eheim pump with a max flow of 1200l per hour for the chiller loop and use my old one (600l per hour) for the system loop.

The tank is usually thought for use in a camping van - but a nice choice for me - capacity of 30l, filled with 25l demineralized water and 5l G12 anti-corrosive.

Using the tank means I can swich off the chiller at the desired temp and have still cold water for about one hour.

The core temp in idle stays always 6°C above water temp - I can set the water temp 10°C below room temp without any condensation - even more but didn't try so far.

The two additional 120mm fans keep my SB & board cold and help to avoid condensation inside the system.

Here're some pics now:
http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/3...stem001eb1.jpg

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/1...stem002ci7.jpg

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/6...stem003ds1.jpg

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/8...stem004op0.jpg

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/6...stem005fp0.jpg

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/2...stem006yo0.jpg

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/9...stem008yc6.jpg

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/9...stem009rk8.jpg

Shut off valve with emergency lever::p:

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/3...stem010ik1.jpg

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/2...stem007ff8.jpg

:up: :up: :up:

Very nice! I'm guessing that is a huge aquarium chiller? That emergency cutoff is crucial, you need flashing red lights and a klaxon also :)

That is one smaller aquarium chiller.
Cooling capacity is 395W.
You must have bought it from Aquatuning, because you've got "AT custom made" connectors for the chiller. ;)

I hope your chiller-top doesn't crack.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fr3akyPete

That is one smaller aquarium chiller.
Cooling capacity is 395W.
You must have bought it from Aquatuning, because you've got "AT custom made" connectors for the chiller. ;)

I hope your chiller-top doesn't crack.

---

:D Yep - bought it from AT - top won't crack, I use that special kind of tape what nomally is beeing used to fix a mirror on a wall for connection and the weight of the system case is spread onto the edges of the chiller case.

:up:

I have that same case! :up:

Hey camouflage!
So the bigger Eheim, I guess it's an Eheim 1250, is only for the chiller, tank and CPU?
Is your "system loop" just for the NB?
Btw, is it a 1A-Cooling-Station for the 1048/46? I bought mine 5 years ago...still does the job in my lan-pc.

If you would insulate the tank with Armaflex or so, the tank could hold the temp even longer.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fr3akyPete

Hey camouflage!
So the bigger Eheim, I guess it's an Eheim 1250, is only for the chiller, tank and CPU?
Is your "system loop" just for the NB?
Btw, is it a 1A-Cooling-Station for the 1048/46? I bought mine 5 years ago...still does the job in my lan-pc.

If you would insulate the tank with Armaflex or so, the tank could hold the temp even longer.

---

:D Yep - the stronger Eheim is a 1250, but the CPU is not in the loop cause the waterblock I'm using has only a flow of 300l per hour. So the 1250 only pumps the water from the chiller into the tank and back.

The other one (right - from 1A cooling) is a 1048, pumps the water from the tank to the CPU & NB waterblock and back into the tank.

I had to modify the bottomplate to fix both pumps on it and used some armaflex to avoid vibrations to the tank to keep the noise level low.

Indeed - the only thing I forgot to do was to insulate the tank, came to my mind just after I had finished the build. But now the 30KG tank is hard to handle and I don't want to get the water out of it again. Maybe I'll do it when I have to change the liquid next time.

:up:

Hi there!

Check this thread out: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2807224#post2807224

Maybe you can throw some light on the subject (ie usage of Hailea Ultra 1500 in a liquid cooling setup), as I see you have been using a similar unit in your setup. Discussion over at the abovementioned thread (started by myself; although I unfortunately misplaced it in the liquid cooling section instead of the chilled liquid cooling section... ;) ) have been fairly hot due to several reasons:

People in the thread cannot understand that a unit that only draws about 375watts can move/dissipate about 790watts. They also think the unit is overly expensive (although at a price LESS than 3xPA120.3 with fans) and that the high flow rate (minimum 1200LPH) would require a MASSIVE pump that is not practical for most users. I had a hard time arguing as I am not familiar with chilled liquid cooling (and the science of refrigeration in which some have elaborated in depth), and people have been called trolls/dumb/stupid/idiots and other inflammatory statements for considering such a unit in a liquid cooling setup, as it's also originally an aquarium chiller.

Anyway, have a look in my thread and feel free to comment / enlighten... but I would bring some heavy armor too, just in case :D

If those specs are correct it should work. It can be found in reef tank supply places under Hailea HC-500A, it uses a Titanium heat exchanger with a R134A 1/2hp comp at flow rates of 1200-3000LPH.

Nice always wanted to try something like this..any tips ?

what's the emergency lever for ?

And is a huge reservoir necessary?

Perhaps a well insulated 1-5 gal res to slow the curve down. A MCP655 inline pump would give you about 1200lph flow rate which would work with this chiller though Im unsure of its durability longterm running cold liquid.

Thinking to use the biggest Hailea which is certified for up to 790watts to cool CPUs in both of my systems (#1 and 2 in sig). Ie I would then probably use a Y-piece to join both loops to hook up to the chiller, then Y them back into their separate loops again. Would then have a D5 (1200LPH max) in the one loop and a DDC Ultra (600 LPH max) in the other. Not at all sure if this would work, though ;)

:D I named it "emergency lever" just for fun - will need it if I have to change some parts within the loops to shut off the water flow before loosen the tubes.

It also will work without huge reservoir but using it You can shut off the chiller at the desired water temp and the water will keep cold temps for a long time.

:up:

Great project camouflage, just the inspiration i need to help with those summer ambiants. Just aquired a Hailea HC-500A off ebay for £200..


The "emergency lever" had me worried too ;)

Actually the prospect of using one of these units is tantalizing... thinking to perhaps use it to lower temps just below ambient to avoid condensation.

Would it be possible to use one of these to cool BOTH of my CPUs? Ie joining the two loops with Y-piece into chiller then perhaps reservoir then Y-tube to divide into separate circuits. I have a DDC ultra (600LPH head 4,7m) in the Q6600 loop and a D5 (1200LPH head 3,7m) in my E6600 loop.

Problem with this might be different flow rate and also of course resistance in each circuit. Is it feasible though? Any comments on this? Perhaps running an Eheim 1250 after the Y-joining of the 2 circuits to boost flow rate? Mind all this is just on the idea level - need more info first.

I would think its still feasible even with a certain amount of flow resistance for a real 1/2 hp chiller to handle that sort of heat load without issue provided you can keep a solid flow of at least 300-315GPH. Use a nice insulated tank and just tap feed/return loops for each source and a seperate evaporator loop through the chiller just like the big boyz. Im doing one right now for a client that is a 200 ton Dx twin shell and tube evap chiller with multible feed pumps all computer controlled, they wasted one barrel and flooded the entire reciever and screw comp right to the top with water.

Interesting, any specs of the system (cpu vga) and cpu load temps when overclocked?

Is it noisy?, i'm thinking of buying the 395w version after the summer.

The system looks really neat with that chiller :up:

Found an Hailea review

Quote:

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Originally Posted by flesheatinvirus

I would think its still feasible even with a certain amount of flow resistance for a real 1/2 hp chiller to handle that sort of heat load without issue provided you can keep a solid flow of at least 300-315GPH. Use a nice insulated tank and just tap feed/return loops for each source and a seperate evaporator loop through the chiller just like the big boyz. Im doing one right now for a client that is a 200 ton Dx twin shell and tube evap chiller with multible feed pumps all computer controlled, they wasted one barrel and flooded the entire reciever and screw comp right to the top with water.

---

OK so a tank/reservoir is recommended. And I hook each loop up to this, inlets and outlets? Any info/threads on how to attach barbs to the tank? Then one loop for chiller->reservoir as per the way camouflage has done it? Is that the "evaporator loop"? With a separate pump with enough flow through the chiller I guess. Any threads on this?

Wow, that's a lot of questions but I have never done anything like this before and it sure sounds interesting.

Oh, and where could I get the insulated tank? I've checked pretty much all camping equipment stores online in my country and no...

Hmm getting bit dizzy at all this new info :confused2

Camo did an excellent job with his chiller build and should be able to answer a lot more of your questions but yes a res tank is recommended. Most people here just find the right sized portable Beer cooler and drill and mount feed lines into it. One way of doing it is One side of the cooler has the feed supply line to your sinks and the outlet supply from the Evap circuit while the other side of the cooler is the return line from the sinks and the inlet supply to the Evap. Two pumps one for the chiller loop and one for the heat sink loop.

:D Nice tanks can be found on EBAY:

http://cgi.ebay.de/Wassertank-Einbau...QQcmdZViewItem

This is EBAY Germany but I think there's a big choice also woldwide....;)

awesome project.... cant wait til i get into the water chilling world.

:D Did some runs at 10°C watertemp, roomtemp 21°C - no condensation !

The tubing is not the problem but I was afraid to get condensation on some metal parts (waterblock, etc.). But it seems the 120mm fan blowing to the mobo's socket section helps a lot to avoid this.;)

nice work Frank, i love it ;)
how clocks your magic QX on it?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Achill3uS

nice work Frank, i love it ;)
how clocks your magic QX on it?

---

:D This way:

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/8111/48ghzgq1.jpg

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/281/1m9656cv6.jpg

Didn't want to push more volts to avoid damage on the chip - but I think with ~1.62 a 5GHz 1M would be possible on chilled water:p: .

Sadly the QX suffers like almost all quads from the FSB limitation. It's bootable up to ~460. So I just got me an E8500 to push my FSB a bit more:yepp: ........, but I will post it later in a new thread - just wait a few hours, good things are going to happen......:D

:up:

Hey Camo!
Did you just press a piece of pipe insulation into the entrance of the tank?
And then the tubes trough this....does it seals good?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fr3akyPete

Hey Camo!
Did you just press a piece of pipe insulation into the entrance of the tank?
And then the tubes trough this....does it seals good?

---

:D Yep - a piece of Armaflex is doing the job, but was not easy to cut the hole into the screwing of the tank without ruining it (hard plastics stuff tends to break very easy!).;)

Maybe you could have done it like this:
Put the cap (or cover) into hot water, so it becomes more flexible and then drill the hole.
(That's what I would try to do.)

It's already been asked in this thread so if I've read over the answer them I'm sorry, but what about the noise that thing produces? Is it like your regular fridge or louder? Just asking because that would be quite interesting to know for 24/7 operation... :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by p2501

It's already been asked in this thread so if I've read over the answer them I'm sorry, but what about the noise that thing produces? Is it like your regular fridge or louder? Just asking because that would be quite interesting to know for 24/7 operation... :D

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:D Compressor is pretty quiet - fridge is more noisy. But You can here the fan, sound is like a running lavatory dryer.

:up:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by camouflage

:D Compressor is pretty quiet - fridge is more noisy. But You can here the fan, sound is like a running lavatory dryer.

:up:

---

Sometimes I wish I had one. :ROTF:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by camouflage

:D Compressor is pretty quiet - fridge is more noisy. But You can here the fan, sound is like a running lavatory dryer.

:up:

---

Hmm.. I guess that would be acceptable. Sleeping besides the rig would be ok too in terms of noise. What I wonder now is if that thing always sucks 395 watts from the wall when you set it to 12-13 degrees C? Or is that number just for 795 watts of heat load for 0°C water temp? Are there any real world numbers for consumption?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by p2501

Hmm.. I guess that would be acceptable. Sleeping besides the rig would be ok too in terms of noise. What I wonder now is if that thing always sucks 395 watts from the wall when you set it to 12-13 degrees C? Or is that number just for 795 watts of heat load for 0°C water temp? Are there any real world numbers for consumption?

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:confused: Don't know - but to keep the electrical bill small is the point of using the tank. If You achieved the desired water temp You can shut off the chiller and will have cold water for about one hour.

BTW - I think more important is to have fun:p: :

http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/8493/85x542jk1.jpg

:up:

Nice results!
I think I need to upgrade my rig, too!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fr3akyPete

Nice results!
I think I need to upgrade my rig, too!

---

:D Go for it...............;)

Hey camouflage!
I didn't say it yet, but I've got a Hailea HC-500A for more than one year already.
My reservoir inside that thing cracked, so I had to send to the seller and get it repaired.
Some weeks later, same shizzle different day. :mad:
The guy fixed it...but after a time the water came out of the "pipe-entrances" of the reservoir where the 2 tubes are connected.
I was pissed, so the leaking chiller was sitting in my room for a while doing nothing.
Now, I finally fixed it by myself with some special type of glue and the last 2 days I kept the thing running on my balcony for 2h each...and....*taaaadaaaa*.... no more leakage.
Now I'm thinking about hooking it up to my computer.
Currently my w/c setup is: cpu, graphics card and mosfets, nb, sb of my mainboard are watercooled.

I was thinking about cooling everything with my chiller. What do you think?

I don't have no external reservoir, would you recommend to use one?
If yes, what material and how big?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Fr3akyPete

Hey camouflage!
I didn't say it yet, but I've got a Hailea HC-500A for more than one year already.
My reservoir inside that thing cracked, so I had to send to the seller and get it repaired.
Some weeks later, same shizzle different day. :mad:
The guy fixed it...but after a time the water came out of the "pipe-entrances" of the reservoir where the 2 tubes are connected.
I was pissed, so the leaking chiller was sitting in my room for a while doing nothing.
Now, I finally fixed it by myself with some special type of glue and the last 2 days I kept the thing running on my balcony for 2h each...and....*taaaadaaaa*.... no more leakage.
Now I'm thinking about hooking it up to my computer.
Currently my w/c setup is: cpu, graphics card and mosfets, nb, sb of my mainboard are watercooled.

I was thinking about cooling everything with my chiller. What do you think?

I don't have no external reservoir, would you recommend to use one?
If yes, what material and how big?

---

:D If You fixed Your leaking problems, why not to use it?

I recommend You a tank for using as a reservoir, at least 30l. So You can shut off the chiller when You got Your desired temp and have cold water for about one hour.


The chiller requires a flow of at least 1200l per hour, but there is no waterblock with that hi flow, so use two loops & two pumps like I do.

Otherwise the waterblock is the limiting factor and the chiller suffers from not getting enough flow.;)

Alright! Thanks for the advices.
Currently I have following stuff laying around here:

pumps:
- Aquastream XT Advanced (in my game-rig)
- Eheim 1048 (in my LAN-pc)
- aquabee UP 3000 (maybe use ONLY this pump for an one-loop-setup? but it's made for fish-tanks)
- Nikkiso Magpon CP10-PPRV-24 (this is what I found: http://translate.google.com/translat...&hl=de&ie=UTF8)

Which two pumps would you recommend for use?

For the reservoir I would choose a normal cooling box with 10l (to check how it works), because I hardly can find space for a larger reservoir).

Any other hints for me?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fr3akyPete

Alright! Thanks for the advices.
Currently I have following stuff laying around here:

pumps:
- Aquastream XT Advanced (in my game-rig)
- Eheim 1048 (in my LAN-pc)
- aquabee UP 3000 (maybe use ONLY this pump for an one-loop-setup? but it's made for fish-tanks)
- Nikkiso Magpon CP10-PPRV-24 (this is what I found: http://translate.google.com/translat...&hl=de&ie=UTF8)

Which two pumps would you recommend for use?

For the reservoir I would choose a normal cooling box with 10l (to check how it works), because I hardly can find space for a larger reservoir).

Any other hints for me?

---

:rolleyes: Try to find a reservoir at camping van equipment store or online shop, mine was usually thought for that use.

Regarding the pumps - I only know technichal data of the Eheim 1048, not enough flow for the chiller loop, this pump has only 600l p/h. But I use exactly this type for the waterblock loop, works fine & Eheim is made of good quality.

Try to check the technical specs of You other pumps at online data sheet, You'll need one with at least 1,200l p/h for the chiller loop.

:up:

Why not try it with a cooling box first?
The aquabee up 3000 pump hast 3000l/h, it should be enough for one loop, right?
But I don't know how it handles the pressure, because my waterblock for cpu is a NexXxos XP...
I don't know if fishtank-pumps are okay with such a setup.

That looks really cool, great job you did there. :D

Great temps too. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fr3akyPete

Why not try it with a cooling box first?
The aquabee up 3000 pump hast 3000l/h, it should be enough for one loop, right?
But I don't know how it handles the pressure, because my waterblock for cpu is a NexXxos XP...
I don't know if fishtank-pumps are okay with such a setup.

---

:D Sure - cooling box will work also. Aquabee is OK for the chiller loop, run the Eheim on the waterblock loop with the Nexxxos XP - I use Nexxxos XP Hi flow - so it will work.;)

Following this thread with interest. Suggested the possibility of using one of these units a while ago, but got slaughtered by a few non-believers...

Considering this for my next system upgrade - want to see how far I can take a QX9650... Think I might use the chiller for the CPU loop only (have a 3-loop system)

@camouflage: is your setup without radiators? would be nice to lose the noise of those

Need to start looking for a suitable reservoir...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by polar bear

Following this thread with interest. Suggested the possibility of using one of these units a while ago, but got slaughtered by a few non-believers...

Considering this for my next system upgrade - want to see how far I can take a QX9650... Think I might use the chiller for the CPU loop only (have a 3-loop system)

@camouflage: is your setup without radiators? would be nice to lose the noise of those

Need to start looking for a suitable reservoir...

---

:D Yep - without radiators, but 2 x 120mm fans in front of the board as You can see in the pictures. Blowing some air to the SB section (NB is included in the water loop) and to the socket section to prevent it from condensation if very low water temp is set.;)

:D I just changed the board, RAM & CPU - now it looks like that:

http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/721...tionwu4.th.jpg

Cause we have summer here & I want to avoid condensation I set the watertemp to 15°C and got some nice results.

Going for hi FSB:

http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/3781/8x580pg7.th.jpg

Going for hi MHz:

http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/5...x565wz7.th.jpg

:up::up::up:

nice results btw what are you getting for load temps?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by msimax

nice results btw what are you getting for load temps?

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:D 8° - 15°C above IDLE, depending on speed & Vcore @ 12° - 15°C watertemp.

In winter when my room temp drops sub 20°C I can set ~8°C watertemp - then things will turn even better.........:p:

:welcome:

:D Here You can see the small difference between Idle and load with this chiller system:

http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/2...1232le0.th.jpg

Min. Idle temp is 21°C and after 3 hours prime test max. temp was 26°C.........:p:

Done with 12° - 13°C water temp.

BTW, stock speed 9x333 is running @ 0.96 Vcore:shocked::

http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/521/9x333ft8.th.jpg

:welcome:

lol, emergency shut down valve :D
arent you worried that one of the hoses will bend and the waterflow will stop or decrease?
i dont think the chiller needs a 1000L pump, it probably needs the higher pressure to push the water through it though :D

what did you gain from going h20?
and why did you use the max and not the evo?
and why dont you watercool the videocard? :confused:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by saaya

lol, emergency shut down valve :D
arent you worried that one of the hoses will bend and the waterflow will stop or decrease?
i dont think the chiller needs a 1000L pump, it probably needs the higher pressure to push the water through it though :D

what did you gain from going h20?
and why did you use the max and not the evo?
and why dont you watercool the videocard? :confused:

---

:D Too many questions from far east my friend..............:rofl:

1) No worry about bending hoses - they're very flexible.

2) The manual of the chiller says it needs at least a flow of 1000l p/h for proper working.

3) First pics are older - of course I use the Evo now (---> post #45).

4) What did I gain from going H2O? New personal records..... - like this one:p::

http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/4...x570cf5.th.jpg

5) My vid card is a 7950GT:yepp: - so old and just short before retirering that I'm afraid it could get a heart attach caused by the cold water............:rofl::ROTF::rofl::p:

:welcome:

Your thread has REALLY inspired me to use this type of set up, especially since you ironed out all the difficult parts of the build. Thanks for posting. Its a great way to get into the world of chillers w/o having to do anything too insane.

One question if you don't mind; did you ever consider mounting a rad as the last part of the loop before returning to the reservoir so that you can eliminate a decent amount of heat and not warm the water as quickly? I thought that might lengthen the time between cooling down your 30 L tank. What are your thoughts on this?

EDIT:

I have a second question that just popped in my head. Using your current set up w/ 30 L, how long do you think you can run your loop w/ the chiller shut off before the temps go beyond tolerable? I would think if you didn't do any xtreme OC, you could run it for 3 or 4 hours before introducing the chiller into the loop again?

Sorry for the annoying questions. I have been playing around with the chiller idea for a few weeks and your loops seems as close as to what I want to do.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Synthetickiller

Your thread has REALLY inspired me to use this type of set up, especially since you ironed out all the difficult parts of the build. Thanks for posting. Its a great way to get into the world of chillers w/o having to do anything too insane.

One question if you don't mind; did you ever consider mounting a rad as the last part of the loop before returning to the reservoir so that you can eliminate a decent amount of heat and not warm the water as quickly? I thought that might lengthen the time between cooling down your 30 L tank. What are your thoughts on this?

EDIT:

I have a second question that just popped in my head. Using your current set up w/ 30 L, how long do you think you can run your loop w/ the chiller shut off before the temps go beyond tolerable? I would think if you didn't do any xtreme OC, you could run it for 3 or 4 hours before introducing the chiller into the loop again?

Sorry for the annoying questions. I have been playing around with the chiller idea for a few weeks and your loops seems as close as to what I want to do.

---

:D Mounting a rad would cause no advantage - let's say I have 25°C room temp here in Summer - so the rad is not able to cool down the water sub room temp, that's the reason the chiller does all the work.

Regarding to Your 2nd question, when my system is OCed near limit so that I need really cold water I can set off the chiller and have cold water for almost one hour - but I forgot to insulate the tank, if You do that with some Armaflex the cold will last longer.

When my system is not OCed I can run it without switching on the chiller.

My current E8400 runs 9x333 @ 0.984 Vcore - this is stable even with water temp = room temp.

:welcome:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by camouflage

:D Mounting a rad would cause no advantage - let's say I have 25°C room temp here in Summer - so the rad is not able to cool down the water sub room temp, that's the reason the chiller does all the work.

Regarding to Your 2nd question, when my system is OCed near limit so that I need really cold water I can set off the chiller and have cold water for almost one hour - but I forgot to insulate the tank, if You do that with some Armaflex the cold will last longer.

When my system is not OCed I can run it without switching on the chiller.

My current E8400 runs 9x333 @ 0.984 Vcore - this is stable even with water temp = room temp.

:welcome:

---

Thanks a TON. I'm trying to collect some info for when I build a nehalem based system in the not so near future. I would probably get a tank about the same size as yours.

My idea is that if I can eliminate some heat entering the tank, clearly, the chiller's effect will last longer since it would be on an OC'd processor, NB and video card most likely in a single loop.

I know that I can't drop the temps below ambient, but pumping in water that is 10 or more degrees below a loop w/o a rad, that would be worth it and might take a a small portion of the workload off the chiller.

At least I think so.....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Synthetickiller

Thanks a TON. I'm trying to collect some info for when I build a nehalem based system in the not so near future. I would probably get a tank about the same size as yours.

My idea is that if I can eliminate some heat entering the tank, clearly, the chiller's effect will last longer since it would be on an OC'd processor, NB and video card most likely in a single loop.

I know that I can't drop the temps below ambient, but pumping in water that is 10 or more degrees below a loop w/o a rad, that would be worth it and might take a a small portion of the workload off the chiller.

At least I think so.....

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:rolleyes: As I said - best is here to insulate the tank itself with some Armaflex - so it will keep the cold much longer if You shut off the chiller and it helps to get better temps with less chiller runtime periods if You run the chiller;).

:welcome:

Hey camo!
I just had a question:
The fan of the chiller is pushing a lot of warm air out of the backside, right?
Why did you place this thing under your computer? Warm air is going upwards and heating up the computer?
Why you didn't put it 3m away from your rig?

:D You're right - I also metioned that issue after finish my setup. But I'm too lazy to change it..............:D.

BTW, there is no difference in CPU temp - only the baord temp is gettin' 1°-2°C warmer......... - one thing I can live with and for extreme hardcore experiments I run the chiller down to desired water temp & shut it off - so I have max. best temps I can get....................;)

:welcome:

camouflage - is the chiller noisy (How many dB's) Thanks....

NIce Job.... :up: