Barton 2500+ and a NF7S v1.2

1. Do I need to do any bridge tricks or anything to get these two to play nice?

My board maxes around 213 fsb and thats with a healthy dose of vdd so not looking for anything 220+ or nothing, that would be sweet.

and 2. At high fsbs, my board seems to flake after while. I'm thinking heat issue of some kind. Where should I heatsink?

I'm thinking all my mosfets near my cpu and that chip above them. But shouldnt I be doing something near my nb? There is a mosfet down there but anything else. I'm adding a fan to the side of my case b/c waterblocks have eliminated much flow.

Thanks. Chip in the mail. I'll post my results/steppings.

:toast:

I believe the 333 fsb chips had issues with all NF7 boards( not getting high fsb) until you BLEW the 3rd L12 bridge ( essentially making it a 266 chip).

The 2.0 WANTS 333 fsb chips.

So I may be wrong, but if ya want higher fsb I would either try a 266 chip, or blow that bridge on the Barton.

Someone please correct me if I am off-base here.

id liek to know this also.. its been a while since these have been out so i hope more ppl have tested them?

2500+ is very cheap now, and id liek to upgrade only if 200~220fsb is possible.

Look here.........


http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...threadid=15300

Put a 2500+ in my v1.2 yesterday. I knew from when I had a 2600+ that it didn't like 166fsb cpu's (185 max b4 cutting L12, 217 after), so I didn't even bother trying without the mod.

This time I did it under the chip instead of cutting the bridge - http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...255#post189255.

hm, would a Stran of Speaker wire work for the mod with the pins?

i dont wanna kill the warrenty on a barton if i bought one..

Thanks

Yeah, any fine wire would work (if you can get it on, too fiddly for me). I used silver conductive paint, rubs off without a trace...;)

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Originally posted by MrLavender
Yeah, any fine wire would work (if you can get it on, too fiddly for me). I used silver conductive paint, rubs off without a trace...;)

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whered you get that stuff?

And after the mod how do you know 100% if it works?

I got it from an online store in the UK. But car defogger repair kit is the same thing.

To test that it worked just go into bios and do "Load Optimized Defaults", it should set the cpu to 11x133.

aight thanks.. silver paint just sounded cool..
ill try the wire if i can afford to buy the cpu.
Thanks.

I thought connecting pins under the cpu is similar to connecting bridges. This essentially does the same fsb adjustment to cutting that bridge? Chip will be in tommorrow. Thanks man.

Oh and question 2 guys..... want to heatsink this bad boy everywhere. my cooling is decent i think I need some mosfet cooling... stuff like that. The smaller overlooked stuff. I picked up a bunch of bga ram sinks from svc and I have a p1 sink ready for some chopping.

I have a XP2800+ Barton in a NF7-S v1.2 mobo. Could not get stable above 195fsb. So I blew the 3rd L12 bridge an runs 223fsb stable now. My only problem with this mobo is the onboard sound drops out at high fsb (223).

Installed a Santa Cruz an sound works fine now.

thats great to know. i will get a 2500+ as soon as they drop under 80.

I hear this doesnt work on the Rev2 boards regardless who makes the mobo....which sux for me cause I cant hit high fsb with my A7N8X Rev2 and 2500+ :cussing:

I will follow this thread and maybe try to wire trick to hit it at 266 action.

Anyone got the link to the wire trick to lower the spec fsb for a Barton?

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Originally posted by Hëll ‡ Fîrë
I hear this doesnt work on the Rev2 boards regardless who makes the mobo....which sux for me cause I cant hit high fsb with my A7N8X Rev2 and 2500+ :cussing:

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I've no idea about Asus, but the NF7-S v2.0 doesn't need any mod for 166 fsb cpus, they do high fsb fine. I did this because I have a v1.2.

Ppl are actually doing the reverse thing with the v2.0, making 133 cpus into 166s.

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Anyone got the link to the wire trick to lower the spec fsb for a Barton?

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Yes, read the posts in this thread. :rolleyes:

Everyone keeps speaking directly to people other than the thread starter.... me.

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Originally posted by texuspete2k2
Everyone keeps speaking directly to people other than the thread starter.... me.

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I've already answered your question about the 2500+ and v1.2, no? You need to do the L12 mod, whether you do it by cutting the bridge on top of the cpu or connecting the pins underneath is up to you, both give the same end result.

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Originally posted by MrLavender
I've already answered your question about the 2500+ and v1.2, no? You need to do the L12 mod, whether you do it by cutting the bridge on top of the cpu or connecting the pins underneath is up to you, both give the same end result.

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yeah, see my results here
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...201#post190201 :toast:

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Yes, read the posts in this thread.

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I wasn't asking for the Thread Links.....Lavvy, I was curious if anyone had a link to a site that would just have the tuturial or pics.

Thx for your input. :hehe:

Didnt wanna have to read thru 300 posts if someone had a direct link on hand. :stick:

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I've already answered your question about the 2500+ and v1.2, no?

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yep. Just saying I thought pin tricks usually simulated connected bridges. Your help has been great and saved me from reading the huge L12 thread.

but..... I'm still wondering on where I should heatsink my nf7-s. Sorry if I came off huffy puffy it's just i pretty much decided to use the conductive fluid method right after your first post and the thread kind of got away from me for a little bit. Selfish bastard that I am :D

:toast:

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Originally posted by texuspete2k2
yep. Just saying I thought pin tricks usually simulated connected bridges. Your help has been great and saved me from reading the huge L12 thread.

but..... I'm still wondering on where I should heatsink my nf7-s. Sorry if I came off huffy puffy it's just i pretty much decided to use the conductive fluid method right after your first post and the thread kind of got away from me for a little bit. Selfish bastard that I am :D

:toast:

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lol, I know what it mean, it can be irritating when you ask a question and everybody else jumps in with their own variant of it.

I used to think the same as you about connecting pins = connecting bridges but candjac put me right, which was handy as I got my 2500+ 2 days later. :) Basically, joining a bridge pin to ground = connecting it, joining it to vcore = cutting it. More details from the master himself here.

As for heatsinks, yeah it's worth doing if you plan on running high vdd/fsb. Most ppl are satifised with putting HS's on the mosfets, better cooling on the NB, and the standard NB cooler on the SB. Or you could just point a fan at the mosfet area of the board, I've seen posts that say this works just as well (if you don't mind the noise). I guess it couldn't hurt to HS the two IC's near the mosfets as well, dunno if anybody has tried this or seen any gain from it.

I'm waiting on a Z-Chipset NB water block myself, that will finally give me an excuse to take the board out of my case and do the vdd mod. I plan on putting HS's on the mosfets.

L12 piccy;

In the pic above, could you put wire in the socket itself to make the connection versus tyring to tie it around the actual pins?

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Originally posted by Hëll ‡ Fîrë
In the pic above, could you put wire in the socket itself to make the connection versus tyring to tie it around the actual pins?

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Yes, anything that connects them will do. But if you're connecting to Vcc (166->133 mod) be VERY CAREFUL not to short anything. If you connect Vcc to the wrong pin you could kill your cpu. I don't like putting a wire in the socket because I'm worried that it might move around a bit when I put the cpu in.

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Yes, anything that connects them will do. But if you're connecting to Vcc (166->133 mod) be VERY CAREFUL not to short anything. If you connect Vcc to the wrong pin you could kill your cpu. I don't like putting a wire in the socket because I'm worried that it might move around a bit when I put the cpu in.

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I understand your thinking there bro....nothing quite says good morning like a good ole fried up country style crispy cpu chip.

I have done a similiar mod on an older board and I used a needle and super glue to hold the wire in place. Just added a drop to the needle and used the needle as my wee little paint brush to add a almost to small amount of glue to the wire once it was in the correct holes. Held gr8 and was easily removed with very small needle nosed pliers.

That sounds pretty safe I guess. :up:

Just a quickie.... what if I end up ditching the 1.2? Hard to undo to 166->133 mod? I should just be able to scrape a bit of the line off so as to sever the connection even if I cant get it super clean right?

I was thinking to use a pin and rear window defogger kit stuff I have from my palomino unlocking days. Thanks.

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Originally posted by texuspete2k2
Just a quickie.... what if I end up ditching the 1.2? Hard to undo to 166->133 mod? I should just be able to scrape a bit of the line off so as to sever the connection even if I cant get it super clean right?

I was thinking to use a pin and rear window defogger kit stuff I have from my palomino unlocking days. Thanks.

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The paint I used comes off easily, I think defogger kit will as well. And if not just use some solvent like isopropyl alcohol.