Hello guys this is my latest wc block in order to have something decent, not aiming for a beauty contest here cause it's roughly finished, al i care is performance :D
It's a small block no? :D
greetz
Beardyman
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Hello guys this is my latest wc block in order to have something decent, not aiming for a beauty contest here cause it's roughly finished, al i care is performance :D
It's a small block no? :D
greetz
Beardyman
fluck that thing is huge :D:D:D talking about ur wb that is :D:D:D
the inlet/outlets seem a lil small no? or is that just the rest of the wb making 'em look small? :D
Jesus, that think is a MONSTER!
Um.....Waiting patiently on performance numbers
how heavy is that thing?!?!?!?!?!
(hey newls1 how is your g-skill 6400 hz ram?? i got 4gb's today :) )
I got some of the HZ stuff, and it's great! I got it up to 950MHz at one point...:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by disruptfam
Vuuahhhh huge cpu block :D
that has been done with a reason, pushing teh water in the channel as it should be, ofcourse i can alway make the holes bigger :)Quote:
Originally Posted by tiro_uspsss
or i can also make the block bigger :D
make the block bigger!! extend it to the northbridge! even a motherboad full cover block??
:D Look forward to test results :p
performance results?
Looks like you dont have a beard at all BeardyMan.
I dont know too much but I think it would be a good quad core evap :)
Nice work anyway :D
Damn fine idea, a motherboard full cover block LOL!!:rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by ls206
Include the GPU and RAM!:rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by newls1
It doesn't look great but that can be fixed; cough nickel plating cough
dude that thing looks like it's about to go take over Poland! It's friggin huge!:D:D:D
I dont mean to be a jerk or anyting, but that design is very similar to the very poorly performing Maze3 created in the early days of watercooling.
My point is this. If your looking for performance, get a Fuzion or GTX and have it stepped like nikhsub1 did. From the looks of it, you could to it yourself.
He made it himself, and for a homemade block it doesn't look too bad...:shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
nice! :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate P.
How high have you clocked yours?Quote:
Originally Posted by disruptfam
no i only just mine yesterday still working on wc build
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=155784&page=9 :)
Nice work!
That had to be a fun milling through all that copper goodness...:up:
What's going on with the top right piece?
Is that, with the offset holes, a central divider or a first top effort?
You don't have enough furniture. Rib the channels(bottom, sides and pits) and you will be happier.
Well there is still room for improvement and i could add something nice right above the core if needed :)Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
Where did you read that :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate P.
Well then, who makes it?Quote:
Originally Posted by wittekakker
Translated to english, someone CNC'ed it for him, design was Troman's idea though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Gay
Wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by wittekakker
edit*
lol pushed a bit to fast that reply button :p
It's not with cnc, none of the existing wc blocks are made with cnc. Impossibel to do.
This one is made with miling machine, the apogee and such are ponsed from a plate that's why there bases are that thin.
If that's what you think then your the one that's wrong. I'm not certain on the form of copper (bar stock/cast/forged) used for the newer GT/GTX blocks so I can't speak about them but the pin matrix can be machined on a CNC mill without a problem, and I know for a fact that it was machined into the Apogee Extreme. The Fuzion could also be machined from bar stock but it would be more expensive as well because the small end mills it would take to mill it would probably break somewhat often and they certainly aren't cheap. It seems most companies are getting away from bar stock in favor of forging, and with good reason. A forged copper block can be made much thinner and have much better transfer rate that bar stock due to the molecules being forced together under enormous pressure.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeardyMan
How easy is it to machine a U-bend channel with a manual mill?
The way the ones on the block in this topic are, fairly easy. If you want a true U shape, that turns into a craps shoot very quickly. Human hands simply can't mimic a decent servo motor. :shakes:Quote:
Originally Posted by YugenM
I'm not the one that is wrong otherwise this block would have that design. I went to 4 machinist from big companys and all of them agree how it got made.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Will you not have mounting issues for components around the mobo? Lookin forward to seeing installed pics and of course...temperatures ;)
Anything can be made with a CNC machine, just think of the right steps. If it is impossible with CNC because you don't have the means to hold the block, just make it very thick, mill the channels and when it's done, mill the baseplate. However, it's not always cost-wise to make everything with a CNC/Mill and that's why forging or casting is more cost effective for big productions.
Indeed, true U turns can only be made with a CNC or a mill with servomotors. You need to be able to control 2 axis at the same time with the proper speed, hard to do manually without being jerky.
so whats the deal/verdict? these are the 'U-turns' in question?
Lemme get this straight - some say only CNC can do, others... ?
This is manual. The round edge is because the mill bit is round ;) A true U-turn would be a half-circle, not a square 90 -> 90 degrees turn.
admittedly i have no idea about whats possible etc etc - but i am actually buying a mill-lathe (2 more payments to go!) when i get it i will be attempting a U-turn - a 'proper' one - i'm c o c k y'n'confident with my manual dexderity :D:D:D
It's doable to do a true U-Turn manually but it take lots of time. Do it in small steps (0.005 inch) alternating each axis till you are at the middle, then change one axis till you complete a half circle. Think of doing it like building a stair.
meh.. no disrespect or anything; u'll think i'm a smart-arse (probably am :p:) - i'll just grab a piece of scrap metal & try it on the fly :D - i'll give it a few goes, if it doesnt wanna play nice, *then* i'll try it like u suggested :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Xilikon
LOL, doing pratice is also doable as well :p:
My own milling/lathing expertise is from my former airplane building classes (milling, lathing and CNC programming). It's been 15 years ago already so I'm sure the technology would have improved by then but nothing beat the old mill in the fun factor ;)
aww crap :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by Xilikon
even with the sharp 90-degree angle in the inner turn of the U (as is the block in this case), will it still be appropriate for an O-ring, or do I have to file it down or whatever?
AM2 has allot of space, s775 doesnt :)Quote:
Originally Posted by K404
I'm leak testing it now , i had to use the force in order to make it leakfree :D
the force,
http://www.onlinebouwmarkt.nl/winkel...0kit%20250.jpg
Then they have no business being machinists. I should know, I was a machinist for 12 years. I was one of two ppl responsible for programming/setup/operating the three 5 axis swiss machines the the company I worked for had. I was also the sole program/setup man for the milling dept for the last 3 years I worked for that same company.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeardyMan
I agree with Waterlogged on this and that is based with my small experience machining airplane components. Anything can be done if given enough time and budget for it. For mass production, forging or casting is better since you are basically repeating the same pattern over and over.
Yep, cost is usually the deciding factor for what parts get made in a machine.
We actually lost a contract once, because it was cheaper for the company we made the parts for to have a mold made for $10,000 for injection molding, than to have us make the three pieces that made up that part and assemble it. I'm positive they had more than one mold made too.
Then it would be cool if you pm'ed hwo to do it, so i can put it under their nose ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Holy block batman!
It could go a little bigger, I guess... :D
But, nice job on a homemade block! :cheers:
Why bother with PM's? I just do it here. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by BeardyMan
Honestly, that's about as simple as you can get for a CNC mill.
It's been 4 years since I've done any CNC programming and I've forgotten pretty much everything in regards to G and M codes, on top of that, almost every machine manufacturer has their own version of control code. There are also too many mill manufacturers out there, many I've never heard of. Without knowing what make mill these incompetent fools you've asked have access to, it would be impossible for me to do it right.
A basic machine path though would go something like this.
[Example]
Block size: 3" x 3"
End Mill size: 3/8" Dia.
Internal wall thickness: .025"
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/4...exampletn2.jpg
Position 1 is dead center over corner of block . We shall call this X0, Y0.
Pos 2 X .500, Y .500
Pos 3 X 2.500, Y .500
Pos 4 X 2.500, Y 2.100
Pos 5 X 2.100, Y 2.100
Pos 6 X 2.100, Y .900
Pos 7 X 1.700, Y .900
Pos 8 X 1.700, Y 2.100
Pos 9 X 1.300, Y 2.100
Pos 10 X 1.300, Y .900
Pos 11 X .900, Y .900
Pos 12 X .900, Y 2.100
Pos 13 X .900, Y 1.5
Pos 14 X .500, Y 1.5
Pos 15 X .500, Y .900
Pos 16 X .500, Y 2.5
Pos 17 X 2.500, Y 2.5
[/Example]
That's a oversimplification, as there normally would be a bunch of G and M code mixed in with F's (feed) and S (spindle speed) as well as the co-ordinates I've posted. Then you would switch tools and tell the machine where to put the small round recesses inside the channel in the same manner. Then mill recess for o-ring or gasket, then drill and tap threads and it's done on one side.
i was talking about the apogee block :) not mine ^^
here are some pics mounted :D
no problems with mounting due size = as am2 bracket :D
temps on X2 6000+ 1.68V 3500mhz without a radiator and just simple water :D
Let it run for 2-3 hours and see the block collect heat until it fails ;)
If you can run this without seeing the heat rise, then you get the right temp.
I have run 3dmark 01 and 3dmark06 for sever hours temps won't come above 30°c and it drops very very fast :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Xilikon
Ah, I see.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeardyMan
Apogee is even simpler. I can make it a couple ways.
One is with 5 tools in a 5 axis CNC mill. 1 part, 4 parts (or maybe even 9 parts) at a time and they would come off the machine complete.
Another way would be with multiple set ups on the machine. One setup on the machine would be an indexer or rotary table setup to slot the copper. The other setup would be a vise or fixture to do everything else to the block.
I only repeated the info I got from SwifTech.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeardyMan
What is the ambient temp? Have you tried Orthos?
So, it is just recycling into a bucket? How is that possible?! :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by BeardyMan
No pump?Quote:
Originally Posted by ColonelCain
just a pomp and a reservoir that's all lol :)Quote:
Originally Posted by ColonelCain