Need it quickly . . .
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Need it quickly . . .
Home Depot or Sears hardware section. Make sure they hook you up with a tapping handle as well. Plus, you might as well also get a 6-32 tap for resizing the fan holes on Thermochills
Here is what you need.
1/4" BSP 18 TPI (19 TPI if they have) tap
11.8mm Drill Bit
This one is real cheap, but they have other brands (Snap On is best, if they have)
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...cStoreNum=8125
Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
thanks dude. I got a tapping kit from them today but it only had Imperial sizes . . .the guy selling them wore white body armor . . .did not see the BSP size but i will try again tomorrow and hit up lowes as well.
Try Sears, or if there's a Ace Hardware, try that as well.
Man I LOVE Ace Hardware!!! That have the phreaking best selection of cool screws. . .A must for truely pimpy case building. And you get actual customer service their compared to Lowes and Home DespotQuote:
Originally Posted by IanY
The big box stores... famous for their service quality... I call it "equal opportunity service"... no matter who you are, we treat everyone equally... like $hit... I swear whenever I want to ask a question, I see the standard growl in the employees' faces... as in " wtf you want mofo ?.. my coffee break is in 1-1/2 hours and I am not in the mood for your f-ing n00b questions" rofl
I too am interested if there is anything online, all I can find locally are 9/16 -18 NF which is great for the larger 9/16 barbs, but for G1/4, closest thing I can find is 1/4"-18 NPT which sort of works because most barbs are so short, but it's not perfect and I want and BSPP 1/4-18.
McMasterCarr has them for $17 plus shipping, but man that seems a bit steep. Looks like I'll have to special order it, I'll see if I can do that with one of the local stores..:confused:
Mcmaster is one of the few places I know will have it. You think $17 is steep?....I know another "one-stop-shop" (that will remain nameless for the time being) that wants $42 for the same tap.;) I don't think your going to find any BSPP taps at any national chain stores DB.
I Do not think that the cuplex have to be crap.
German waterblock usually have a good build quality.
The thing that bothers me are the very different temperatures by some old blocks.
Maybe they used aquacomputers standard 8/6mm tubing :)
I think he wanted this topic hereQuote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=162535
I ordered mine from McMasters along with a 11.8mm drill bit. Make sure you get BSPP tap. You want a water tight seal, and getting another tap that's "close" isn't wise in my opinion. You're lookin at around $30 for the drill and tap though. I bought one to put two additional holes in my EK res top. It works great. You can skip the tap handle if you have a pair of vice grips. You just want to ensure that you line everything up correctly. Tapping delrin or acrylic is easy, and won't require a lot torque.
Going to have to go the McMaster-carr route, checked at my best local tap supply store and they won't even make a special order.
It just sucks when I see a 1/4-18 NPT tap sitting on the self for $5 and I'll have to spend 4 times that. Hope it s a quality HSS tap..
There's a shop here locally that has near anything on the shelf. I'll try to give them a call on Monday to see what they charge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
I had a place on e-Bay i ordered mine from, but he's out of stock. $3.99 too ... would have been nice to point you his way.
lucky some of you guys have an ACE Hardware with mostly complete lineup of stuff to buy... here, you'll only get to see whats saleable, you wont find any bspp (parallel) taps...
I bought a 1/4-18 NPT and it seems to work ok. Here is a test run on scrap acrylic:
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/4...0081aw1.th.jpg
This is the new resevoir I need to tap the hole in teh bottom. The inlet will be two small tubes that come in from the back, thru the heart and thru the stake which will pierce the heart. I will drill holes thru the stake for the tubes so the fluid look like it is spurting from where the stake pierces the heart. The heart will be in the upper chamber with the stake piercing the front to the chamber. The blood will spurt in the small that is between the top chamber and the front (the top of the L-shaped piece of plastic). The heart will stay dry (which is good because it is electrical and pumps.
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/4...0085na2.th.jpghttp://img137.imageshack.us/img137/7...0084ic3.th.jpghttp://img296.imageshack.us/img296/5...0077nr2.th.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
Yeah it does work, but if you're not carefull with the barb it can try to cross thread on you.
I have a 1/4 -18 NPT and a 9/16-18 for the two barb sizes. The 1/4-18 NPT works, but it's just not as perfectly smooth as the correct tap. I can finger tighten my 9/16-18 barbs, but have to use a wrench and be very careful on the G1/4 barbs when using the npt 18 tap.
I have a sneaking suspicion that whomever manufactures the db-1 was using a 1/4 - 18 npt tap to tap all the initial db-1 barbs. You might recall alot of people having problems with the threading.
I used it on my first block here too, but you can see in the lexan how the metal barb threads are not exactly perfect matching the cut lexan:
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...LineBlock6.jpg
This won't do...I want perfect!:D
you guys in K-Falls have nothing to do but build blocks? ;) You ever travel north to the more populated parts of Oregon?Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Yeah, lived in Eugene/Springfield area for 5 years. Nice area and fun town, but the 8 months of grey skys and rain were too much, gotta have some sun..:DQuote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
I should have known when one of my work's safety meetings included a vendor talking about light therapy. I couldn't believe people pay $400 for a light box to keep them happy.
I'll take a little sagebrush with my sunshine..:p:
I also end up traveling to Bend at least a few days per month for work. Spend way too much time trying to figure out that towns mess of transportation problems.
Hate the Bend roundabouts . . but love snowboarding at BachelorQuote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
I have just finished a major search in all things BSP related. Here's the short of it.
BSP British Standard Pipe
This comes in taper and parallel. The jargon varies on how to describe the tap. Most common is the BSPT or BSPP but I have seen BSP be parallel.
Then we get into all the variations
G, how I’ve come to hate this letter. This means Gas, which means… about anything. Most common is a reference to a BSW ( I haven’t introduced this one yet) or a parallel thread.
So now BSW similar to the rest but the W is for whitworth. This seems to have the most association with ‘G’, though I have seen it referenced as something other than the BS family
This reference is pretty good and seems to be accurate.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British...rd_pipe_thread
So what you have is a BSPP(‘L’ is sometimes here) whitworth 55 degree thread. There is also a full form and modified form. The full form is from Europe and couldn’t be made in the US and so the US made a modified. Now everyone can make it and so… good luck with that but it shouldn’t make a lot of difference. Has to do with a radius on the minor axis.
As for getting one… prepare thyself…..
This link has some for a very good price. I myself need a 1/8 G, but these are like 220 V 50 Hz. Uncommon here and so expensive.
http://www.blujay.com/item/NEW-4-PCS...060000-1738603
McMaster Carr has some if you use BSPP in the search. It doesn’t say if it is whitworth or full or modified. There may be other places as well. If you search for BSPP and look for a ¼ you should be ok but remember that the jargon can confuse what you’re getting. It will likely take a call to confirm.
FYI
I ordered the BSPP tap from Master Carr and it turned out to be the bottomless variety. I also picked up an 11.8mm drill bit to go with it.
They are both very nice and worth the money, but you probably would want a tapered cut tap if you're hand tapping.
I like the bottomless because I'm tapping in my mill, but it would probably be a PITA to keep a nice perpenticular tap by hand.
The 11.8mm drill bit also works wonders by removing just the right amount of material. I'm literally able to hand tap in plastics by hand turning my chuck without any wrench and threads are perfect every time. I was not able to do that with the NPT-18 tap, and threads were never perfect either.
Anyhow, I'm glad it is bottomless, but something to watch for if you're ordering from Mcmaster-carr...
The NPT is for tapered threads, and if your tapping acyclic there is the potential to crack the material when you screw your barb in. The taper gets smaller at the bottom, and so with thin material it doesn't matter so much, but with thicker material the barb won't screw in all the way.
Also, try and use a drill press if possible. You want the hole to be perfectly parallel. If you are tapping Delrin or Acyclic you won't need a t-handle since the material is so soft. I just hold the tap in a pair of vice grips.
I (or C'DaleRider or any other machinist) could have saved you a lot of work if you had asked. BSP is also usually followed by a letter designation to specify exactly which BSP should be made. You forgot another common letter as well. "R" designates a tapered (otherwise known as a BSPT) thread. As stated in the Wiki, all BSP threads are based on the Whitworth thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by guest
Here's some more on BSP threads straight from the Machinery's Handbook 26th Edition which is more or less the Bible for anyone in design or manufacturing.
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/7398/1856de9.th.jpg http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/7277/1857kz3.th.jpg http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/6332/1858hg6.th.jpg
Also, BSPP (G) seals with O-Rings (teflon tape or pipe dope is nearly useless on these), BSPT (R) seals with Teflon tape (or pipe dope). It's best not to mix the two types of threads as you'll only have only a few threads grabbing which ever way you mix, thereby increasing your risk of a leak.
Bottomless? :ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Sorry, couldn't help myself. :shakes:
It seems it's been a very long time since you were on the floor of a shop. ;) The styles of taps available are Bottoming, Plug, and Tapered. With a BSPP or NPSM, the only style tap available is a bottoming as there can't be any taper otherwise it's not a BSPP or NPSM.
Here's a LONG explanation of threads:
Threaded Pipe Connections
(This is what we in watercooling deal with....pipe threads)
Pipe threads are either tapered or straight (parallel). The two styles are not compatible.
Tapered threads (as the name implies) have a slight taper. When mated together and tightened, the threads compress to form a seal. The most widely used pipe threads in North America are National Pipe Taper threads (NPT). Some confusion may result from the use of NPT, FPT, and MPT in describing threads. Both FPT and MPT are NPT threads, with FPT meaning female threads (internal) and MPT meaning male threads (external). NPTF (Dryseal) threads are modified NPT threads which are less likely to leak without a sealant. To assure a leak-free seal, use a sealant compound or Teflon tape. You can use NPTF threads with NPT threads, but you'll lose some of the leak-free characteristics.
There are a number of threads that are compatible with NPT threads. They are NPTF (Dryseal), NPSC (National Pipe Straight Coupling), and NPSL (National Pipe Straight Locknut).
Straight (parallel) threads are used for mechanical joining. They serve one purpose—to hold a fitting in place. As a result, an O-ring (elastomer), hard metal seal, or soft metal seal is required. Straight pipe threads include NPSM (National Pipe Straight Mechanical), NPSL (National Pipe Straight Locknut), and NPSH (National Pipe Straight Hose) threads. Unified screw threads (UN/UNF) conform to SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) specifications. Sizing and pitches differ from the NPT threads. Less common straight threads are garden hose (GHT) and fire hose coupling (NST).
NPT and BSPT/BSPP Threads
The European equivalent to NPT tapered threads is BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper) threads. BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel) threads are straight (parallel) threads and have the same angle, shape, and threads per inch (pitch) as BSPT threads. BSPT and BSPP threads are not compatible with and should not be substituted for NPT threads.
NPT and BSPT/BSPP threads have different angles, shape, and (in most cases) threads per inch (pitch). The thread angle is 60° for NPT threads; 55° for BSPT/BSPP threads. NPT threads are flattened at the peaks and valleys, while BSPT/BSPP threads are rounded.
This is why when you try to use an NPT threaded barb in a BSPT/BSPP port, they leak. The rounded peaks and valleys of the BSPT/BSPP threads don't mate with the NPT threads and cause the drips and leaks that most suffer from when trying to mix the two incompatible thread standards.
(In our arena of watercooling, typically you can thread an NPT-threaded barb into a BSPT/BSPP port despite the NPT being threaded at 18 threads per inch and BSPT/BSPP threaded at 19 threads per inch because we use such short sections of thread. They will thread and essentially mate, but poorly.)
NPT
http://www.mcmaster.com/param/html/M.../npthreads.gif
Flattened Peaks and Valleys
BSPT/BSPP
http://www.mcmaster.com/param/html/M...bspthreads.gif
Rounded Peaks and Valleys
Quote:
Originally Posted by IanY
And IanY...........there is NO 18 TPI BSPT/BSPP thread pitch.....that thread pitch is only found, in our arena, in NPT threaded items. BSPT/BSPP is a 19 TPI ONLY in our most commonly used sizes of pipe threads. A complete chart of NPT and BSPT/BSPP thread pitches are below for your education and use.
NPT threads per inch chart:
(Pipe size and pitch found in that size...bolded size is our most commonly seen size in watercooling)
1/8".......................27 TPI
1/4", 3/8"..............18 TPI (1/4" pipe is our most commonly used NPT size, when found)
1/2", 3/4"................14 TPI
1" thru 2"................11 1/2 TPI
2 1/2" and larger.......8 TPI
BSPT/BSPP threads per inch chart:
(Pipe size and pitch found in that size...bolded size is our most commonly seen size in watercooling)
1/8"....................28 TPI
1/4", 3/8"...........19 TPI (1/4" BSPP is our most found pipe size in WC'ing; 3/8" BSPP is the Thermochill radiator pipe size used in their inlet/outlet, also found in first generation Swiftech MCR-320 rads)
1/2", 3/4".............14 TPI
1" and all larger.....11 TPI
And sorry, Waterlogged, didn't see your reference pages before I wrote all this out....I just sort of repeated you. DUH! But once I got to IanY's inane comment about going to ask for a 1/4" 18 TPI BSP tap, I just had to respond with some facts......not misinformation.
It's OK, you filled many of the gaps I left open. :up:
Is that a Typo?Quote:
NPT threads per inch chart:
(Pipe size and TPI found in that size...bolded size is our most commonly seen size in watercooling)
1/8"........................27 TPI
1/4", 3/8"...............18 TPI (1/4" pipe is our most commonly used size...G 1/4" is an NPT 1/4" pipe size.)
1/2", 3/4"................14 TPI
1" thru 2"................11 1/2 TPI
2 1/2" and larger.......8 TPI
My DUH! BUt I'm sick, been up all day yesterday and all night tonight, so I re-edited it so much because all the drugs in me are making me see double and cloud my thinking a bit.
But I fixed it and added illustrations of NPT vs. BSPT/BSPP thread design. Please don't hesitate to let me know of any other faux pas you see. Thx!
:)
Ooopps! Faux pas of my own. :lol:
I should have highlighted the whole line. The size we use is most is BSPP 1/4" not NPT 1/4".
Also, to avoid possible confusion, change this
to "first generation". I think most of us currently here know what you mean but I think it might confuse some newbs down the road.Quote:
BSPT/BSPP threads per inch chart:
(Pipe size and pitch found in that size...bolded size is our most commonly seen size in watercooling)
1/8"....................28 TPI
1/4", 3/8"...........19 TPI (3/8" BSPP is the Thermochill radiator pipe size used in their inlet/outlet, also found in last generation Swiftech MCR-320 rads)
1/2", 3/4".............14 TPI
1" and all larger.....11 TPI
Everything else looks good. :up:
Ok, it's a tap for threading holes that are "Bottomless" you know what I meant...lol...:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Just because I worked in a shop didn't mean I knew the proper terminology. I did know what each was used for though.
For tapered I mean the taps that are cut tapered, not the actul threading tapered. All of my regular taps are cut at a taper for a good 1/3 the length of the tap except this one which tapers to full threads in the first 3 or so threads.
No problem when tapping on my mill or the drill press, but that would be less than fun tapping by hand without something to hold it plumb.
I should expand on that so ppl know what I talking about. Like I stated before, taps come in 3 basic styles (it then can get complicated from there but, that's another story). They are Bottoming, Plug and Taper. These names actually refer to the end of the tap that does the cutting and are for screw threads only. Pipe taps, have only one type per style of thread. That means if the pipe thread is a NPT or BSPT, the tap will be ground with the proper taper with the proper "finished" threads being somewhere near the middle of the taper. If the thread is NPSM or BSPP, it will have 2-3 thread chamfered starter threads and the rest will be ground straight (parallel).Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Here's a bit more info on screw thread taps
Quote:
Originally Posted by Machinery's Handbook-26th Edition
www.tapdie.com is the company I generally use & recommend when buying any taps... they'll ship internationally...
http://www.tapdie.com/html/taps__met...w_taps__b.html