Fuzion CPU middle to Top Block gap

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09-12-2007, 10:48 PM
Martinm210

Fuzion CPU middle to Top Block gap

FYI

Doing some CPU block testing so, I've had my fuzion sitting here on my work bench. I started looking more closely at the match between the middle and top derlin blocks to try a more agressive bow and I think I see a big part of why bowing helps so much on the Fuzion (It stops an internal leak).

There is a rather large gap between the middle and top block. Try putting the two blocks together, block the outlet of the middle block center tube and try to blow through the block, mine leaks like a sieve.

My first bow try was after creating a nozzle and I made about a 1/32" plastic washer. To my suprise if I remove the outer gasket to check clearances that thin washer barely even closes the gap that's there. I ended up gaining almost 3C improvement simply by using this very thin gasket which didn't bow it very much, I think alot of that gain is simply by sealing and preventing the inlet water from bypassing the base:up:

This is how the mid block looks with a straightedge across the top (almost a 1mm gap).
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...pMidBlocks.jpg

And this is the thin washer I made, but any sort of thin o-ring or gasket material cut to fit would help alot with this.
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...nBowWasher.jpg

Update: The proof is in the "Play-Doh"...:D Right at 1.0mm of gap remaining after assembling the block:
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...ksPlay-Doh.jpg

Update2: 1/16" O-Ring and the bow that you get:
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...wingO-Ring.jpg
Straightedge with O-ring:
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...ingResults.jpg
09-12-2007, 11:05 PM
Ad1tya

Wow...

Ill definately try this out, next time I take my loop apart!....

Thanks for the info mate!
09-13-2007, 03:37 AM
Sparky

Nice find! I wondered about that section because of no gasket or seal but just assumed it fit together tight enough to seal off. Guess I was wrong! I may have to do this when I do a proper flush of my loop.

Did you inform Dtek?
09-13-2007, 03:38 AM
m3nf

Nice one, will also try when i upgrade my CPU, cheers.
09-13-2007, 05:24 AM
Martinm210

Thanks. I also assumed it just fit tightly together, and maybe mine is slightly odd. Let me know if you guys see the same thing.

I would have never noticed until I made the thin washer, took out the perimeter washer and tried a dry fit out. I expected the washer to make it rock heavily on the center column, but suprisingly it did very little. That's when I started using the straight edge to compare. The top block seems to have a flush center to outside extension, but the middle block is off as you can see. The middle block does seem to have a very slight bow to it, which may be from the washer being there a while, but it's still fairly flat on the bottom, but the top has this gap on the center.

I suppose you could even cut a small groove in there for a larger o-ring to fit nicely.

Anyhow, my gain was probably more pronounced because of the nozzle creating all the extra resistance, but I would think you'll see some improvement regardless.

I have not contacted D-tek, this is probably just a small tolerance they built into the block to ensure the perimeter seal gets fully compressed. Anyhow, just curious if you guys are seeing the same thing, try that seal test next time you take the block apart. Cover the hole with one finger and blow through it...that little washer makes a huge difference on mine.
09-13-2007, 07:11 AM
dr4gon

Very nice review/guide again!!

... I don't know how you find these things :p
09-13-2007, 07:17 AM
Sparky

So I'm thinking fuzion nozzle + gap filler = few C drop :D

OK I want those nozzles, NOW ;)
09-13-2007, 07:32 AM
nikhsub1

LOL, this is why i used the oring in the first place when i did this 5 months ago. It was to stop leakage not to bow. Would be neat to see something that would stop leakage but not alter the base at all and see what happens... like a neoprene gasket or something.
09-13-2007, 08:30 AM
nealh

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martinm210

FYI

Doing some CPU block testing so, I've had my fuzion sitting here on my work bench. I started looking more closely at the match between the middle and top derlin blocks to try a more agressive bow and I think I see a big part of why bowing helps so much on the Fuzion (It stops an internal leak).

There is a rather large gap between the middle and top block. Try putting the two blocks together, block the outlet of the middle block center tube and try to blow through the block, mine leaks like a sieve.

My first bow try was after creating a nozzle and I made about a 1/32" plastic washer. To my suprise if I remove the outer gasket to check clearances that thin washer barely even closes the gap that's there. I ended up gaining almost 3C improvement simply by using this very thin gasket which didn't bow it very much, I think alot of that gain is simply by sealing and preventing the inlet water from bypassing the base:up:

This is how the mid block looks with a straightedge across the top (almost a 1mm gap).
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...pMidBlocks.jpg

And this is the thin washer I made, but any sort of thin o-ring or gasket material cut to fit would help alot with this.
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...nBowWasher.jpg

what is that washer material?
09-13-2007, 08:36 AM
Waterlogged

I'll be looking to seal that gap with no bow and no nozzles when I get to building my E6300 gaming rig.

Thanks for confirming I don't have bad eyesight Martinm210. :up:
09-13-2007, 09:16 AM
annaconda

Nice find.
09-13-2007, 05:14 PM
leo_bsb

wow!
I'll add an oring right away I get my hands on my block.
09-13-2007, 06:29 PM
Martinm210

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikhsub1

LOL, this is why i used the oring in the first place when i did this 5 months ago. It was to stop leakage not to bow. Would be neat to see something that would stop leakage but not alter the base at all and see what happens... like a neoprene gasket or something.

Yeah a nice soft neoprene gasket would do well to just seal. You could also probably run a thin bead of silicone if you were careful, but you'd have to redo it every time you pull it apart.
09-13-2007, 06:29 PM
Martinm210

Quote:

Originally Posted by nealh

what is that washer material?

It's just plastic that was sanded down.
09-13-2007, 06:33 PM
nealh

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martinm210

It's just plastic that was sanded down.

thanks

what did you use that had an essential perfect diameter
09-13-2007, 06:36 PM
nikhsub1

The funny part, the enzo block has an oring groove right there, so there is no leakage. First thing I said to Danny when I got the block was WTF is there no o-ring there?
09-13-2007, 06:42 PM
Sparky

Something enzo noticed and dtek didn't I suppose? Though how you'd miss that I don't know, it struck me the first time I opened the block hmm how is that not gonna leak (though I didn't realize it was that far off).
09-13-2007, 06:48 PM
nealh

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikhsub1

The funny part, the enzo block has an oring groove right there, so there is no leakage. First thing I said to Danny when I got the block was WTF is there no o-ring there?

seems like they need to sell a nozzle kit with a gasket or flat disc to fill-in the gap

I would pay in a heart beat....

Danny are you listening....please
09-13-2007, 08:03 PM
carholmes

I just fitted the gap of my fuzion with a DD barb O-ring and that works fine and fits perfectly. There is no air leakage anymore and it only made a slight bow. The only problem is that I can't really test it since I still have to buy a few more things to put together my first loop. So can anyone confirm that using a barb O-ring will work?
09-13-2007, 08:09 PM
dr4gon

Quote:

Originally Posted by carholmes

I just fitted the gap of my fuzion with a DD barb O-ring and that works fine and fits perfectly. There is no air leakage anymore and it only made a slight bow. The only problem is that I can't really test it since I still have to buy a few more things to put together my first loop. So can anyone confirm that using a barb O-ring will work?

That's a good idea and I have one extra. :up: Martin should be able to tell you. But it soudns to me if it creates a bow, it's sealing git up pretty well .... and thus should be fine
09-13-2007, 08:30 PM
pH(x)

Will do, this gives me a reason to pry open my FuZion block before it goes into the leak-testing loop. And get out those errant shavings of Delrin from the inside of the "out" and "in" nozzles. Hopefully this will improve my temps combined with the PTS Top MCP350.
09-13-2007, 09:05 PM
Waterlogged

Maybe I'm wrong but, wouldn't nozzles kind of bypass the gap making it a non-issue? :shrug:
09-13-2007, 09:13 PM
Martinm210

Quote:

Originally Posted by nealh

thanks

what did you use that had an essential perfect diameter

My plastic was just a sheet, and I used a special drill (Tiny center spade and outside edge cutter) bit to cut out the ID hole and scissors to cut around the outside.
09-13-2007, 09:16 PM
Martinm210

Quote:

Originally Posted by dr4gon

That's a good idea and I have one extra. :up: Martin should be able to tell you. But it soudns to me if it creates a bow, it's sealing git up pretty well .... and thus should be fine

Yeah the barb o-ring should be more than up to the job of sealing, but they might be a little aggressive on the bowing side. I have no idea how much bow can be too much, but I was just working my way up in small increments. I know they have varied o-ring thicknesses, so I was going to stop by my local home improvement store that has a big o-ring bin and do some shopping.:up:
09-13-2007, 09:19 PM
Martinm210

Quote:

Originally Posted by Waterlogged

Maybe I'm wrong but, wouldn't nozzles kind of bypass the gap making it a non-issue? :shrug:

I'm not sure what the D-tek nozzles are like, but my own custom one just sit down inside the middle block leaving the gap right there still in the way. But I suppose if a nozzle was long enough...it could help with the leak.

I do wonder if this changes pressure drop of the block. It should increase it some for the good of better temps, but I'm not sure how much.
09-13-2007, 09:21 PM
Jedda

Quote:

Originally Posted by nealh

seems like they need to sell a nozzle kit with a gasket or flat disc to fill-in the gap

I would pay in a heart beat....

Danny are you listening....please

Yeah, it looks as if that might've been the original idea.
09-13-2007, 09:29 PM
nikhsub1

Some reading for you all.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=142998
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=132454
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=151781
09-13-2007, 09:48 PM
Martinm210

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikhsub1

Some reading for you all.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=142998
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=132454
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=151781

I read through that and didn't catch your comment the first time about the leaking...you were right!

Anyhow. For fun, I performed the Uber High Tech....."Play-Doh" test on this gap to get a better idea of thickness needed with an assembled block.

By the way this only works with ORANGE Play-Doh and no immitations will work the same!...:p:

Almost exactly 1.0mm of gap is there per the official "Play-Doh" testing lab...(And don't tell my son about this!):D

If you only want to seal, you need some softer material just about 1mm or thicker, and to bow....something thicker than 1.0mm..
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...ksPlay-Doh.jpg
09-13-2007, 10:10 PM
jerrydog

Adding O ring

After reading this thread I added 1.6 mm thick Oring. I did not see large bowing effect from this small Oring. This is probably due to the 1mm gap that already exists, so the compressed oring is just filling this space...But my temps improved 1.5 degrees.

So this means that the Fuzion can be improved without bowing and with out adding jets. So if you are not someone who want to bow his base they can get better performance... If I had a thicker O-ring I would get the bowing effect and probably have even higher improvement. How thick is O-ring you are using. (I did not get o-ring from barb, I have a metric O ring kit and this is the only size that would fit)
09-13-2007, 10:18 PM
Martinm210

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerrydog

After reading this thread I added 1.6 mm thick Oring. I did not see large bowing effect from this small Oring. This is probably due to the 1mm gap that already exists, so the compressed oring is just filling this space...But my temps improved 1.5 degrees.

So this means that the Fuzion can be improved without bowing and with out adding jets. So if you are not someone who want to bow his base they can get better performance... If I had a thicker O-ring I would get the bowing effect and probably have even higher improvement. How thick is O-ring you are using. (I did not get o-ring from barb, I have a metric O ring kit and this is the only size that would fit)

That's great to know...thanks!
I gained very roughly 3C from my washer which is probably a little over 1mm but hard plastic and did seem to bow only very very slightly, but this was after I had a nozzle.

Adding a nozzle will increase resistance and make the leaking problem even worse, that's probably why I saw the bigger improvement.

So it sounds like a nozzle and thin o-ring should to be worth about 2-3C maybe more..:up:
09-13-2007, 10:29 PM
dinos22

hmmm i donno about your testing methods there. Actually i am a little disappointed

the correct colour of playdoh used should have been the following :D

http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/6...9deee05kg3.jpg

my daughter's got plenty of it around if you need some i can send it over :D
09-13-2007, 10:39 PM
jerrydog

I used a PINK O-ring!!!:up:
09-13-2007, 10:50 PM
aiya

don't mean to thread jack but didn't feel like making a new thread and i did a search and didn't find anything. anyways, can any of you guys with Fuzion blocks tell me how long your mounting screws are? thanks.
09-13-2007, 11:39 PM
carholmes

Quote:

Originally Posted by aiya

don't mean to thread jack but didn't feel like making a new thread and i did a search and didn't find anything. anyways, can any of you guys with Fuzion blocks tell me how long your mounting screws are? thanks.

The screws are around 6mm long.
09-14-2007, 02:38 AM
nealh

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martinm210

My plastic was just a sheet, and I used a special drill (Tiny center spade and outside edge cutter) bit to cut out the ID hole and scissors to cut around the outside.

thanks

Guys does Lowe's, HD or Ace sell small O-rings we could use?
09-14-2007, 03:32 AM
newls1

Play Doh is the best stuff. I remember using Play-Doh to help me find my piston to valve clearance back a few years ago on my drag car.. Great find!!!
09-14-2007, 06:46 AM
Martinm210

Hehe...So many uses that Play-Doh has..:ROTF:

Anyhow, I saw a few o-rings in the bolt bins at my Home Depot but there's not a huge selection. We have another home improvent store locally though that has a big o-ring box I saw, not sure what Lowes has.

It may be an easier find at some automotive type stores. Anyhow, I'll go searching today and see what o-ring options may be out there.

I think that 1.6mm metric o-ring would be perfect for a non-bow or very litle bow, and one of the thicker types for a more substantial bow.
09-14-2007, 07:44 AM
jerrydog

Yes I agree 1.6mm would be the best thickness. I think you can buy them at Mcmaster....but not sure the minimum you need to buy
09-14-2007, 07:55 AM
MaxxxRacer

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikhsub1

LOL, this is why i used the oring in the first place when i did this 5 months ago. It was to stop leakage not to bow. Would be neat to see something that would stop leakage but not alter the base at all and see what happens... like a neoprene gasket or something.

i dont like neoprene in waterblocks. if you remember the TDX and RBX, they both had neoprene gaskets. Over time they would fall apart and leave rubber remant all over the components.
09-14-2007, 08:03 AM
nikhsub1

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer

i dont like neoprene in waterblocks. if you remember the TDX and RBX, they both had neoprene gaskets. Over time they would fall apart and leave rubber remant all over the components.

I don't either... but just for a test it would be interesting as it would not cause the base to bow at all. I honestly think it doesnt make a difference one bit but I could be wrong.
09-14-2007, 08:18 AM
MaxxxRacer

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikhsub1

I don't either... but just for a test it would be interesting as it would not cause the base to bow at all. I honestly think it doesnt make a difference one bit but I could be wrong.

you dont think what doesnt make a difference?
09-14-2007, 08:29 AM
nikhsub1

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer

you dont think what doesnt make a difference?

I dont think that 'filling the gap' makes any difference with a stock fuzion. Nozzled maybe a different story.
09-14-2007, 09:22 AM
leo_bsb

Looking at the last pictures I have another opinion.
Maybe that gap was intentionally projected to lock the nozzles. So the nozzles were mean to be locked by that gap, sealing it. What do you guys think?
09-14-2007, 10:20 AM
nikhsub1

Quote:

Originally Posted by leo_bsb

Looking at the last pictures I have another opinion.
Maybe that gap was intentionally projected to lock the nozzles. So the nozzles were mean to be locked by that gap, sealing it. What do you guys think?

Nice theory but I can assure you that is not the case.
09-14-2007, 10:58 AM
jayhall0315

Testing with the gap filled

Hey Martinm,
I can see your headed towards full testing of the Fuzion with your washer and nozzle in place. I have not had a chance to publish these results here in a more current Showdown at High Noon article yet (I just finished grad school and have spent the last two weeks moving a Penske truck across the country to California), but my results (with the gap filled) were slightly different:

Q6600 (at 3.2 GHz) with MicroRes/MCR 220/Fuzion/MCW60/MCP 655 and 1/2 inch tubing as follows:

Load (with the gap unfilled - stock) - 42.3 deg C with 1.83 gal/min flow
Load (with the gap filled - 0.5 mm washer) - 40.8 deg C with 1.93 gal/min flow
Load (with gap filled and custom nozzle) - 39.7 deg C with 1.48 gal/min flow

Hope this helps out Martinm,
Jay
09-14-2007, 11:17 AM
Martinm210

Quote:

Originally Posted by jayhall0315

Hey Martinm,
I can see your headed towards full testing of the Fuzion with your washer and nozzle in place. I have not had a chance to publish these results here in a more current Showdown at High Noon article yet (I just finished grad school and have spent the last two weeks moving a Penske truck across the country to California), but my results (with the gap filled) were slightly different:

Q6600 (at 3.2 GHz) with MicroRes/MCR 220/Fuzion/MCW60/MCP 655 and 1/2 inch tubing as follows:

Load (with the gap unfilled - stock) - 42.3 deg C with 1.83 gal/min flow
Load (with the gap filled - 0.5 mm washer) - 40.8 deg C with 1.93 gal/min flow
Load (with gap filled and custom nozzle) - 39.7 deg C with 1.48 gal/min flow

Hope this helps out Martinm,
Jay

Nice work, that does help alot! Thanks Jay!!
09-14-2007, 11:22 AM
Martinm210

FYI
Went down to my local home improvement center and found this 1/16" (1.6mm) o-ring. Cost me $1.29 for two..:D

http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...wingO-Ring.jpg

It does however bow the base, and actually after trying it, I wouldn't recommend anything thicker...seems like plenty of bow to me, here is the straightedge test after installing the 1/16" o-ring.
http://www.overclock.net/gallery/dat...ingResults.jpg
09-14-2007, 01:29 PM
MaxxxRacer

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikhsub1

I dont think that 'filling the gap' makes any difference with a stock fuzion. Nozzled maybe a different story.

Jays results seem to say otherwise. Care to do some testing on your rig?
09-14-2007, 02:41 PM
nikhsub1

Quote:

Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer

Jays results seem to say otherwise. Care to do some testing on your rig?

No. I know that bowing like what martin is showing above definitely increases performance, 2-3c or so.
09-14-2007, 03:43 PM
nealh

Quote:

Originally Posted by jayhall0315

Hey Martinm,
I can see your headed towards full testing of the Fuzion with your washer and nozzle in place. I have not had a chance to publish these results here in a more current Showdown at High Noon article yet (I just finished grad school and have spent the last two weeks moving a Penske truck across the country to California), but my results (with the gap filled) were slightly different:

Q6600 (at 3.2 GHz) with MicroRes/MCR 220/Fuzion/MCW60/MCP 655 and 1/2 inch tubing as follows:

Load (with the gap unfilled - stock) - 42.3 deg C with 1.83 gal/min flow
Load (with the gap filled - 0.5 mm washer) - 40.8 deg C with 1.93 gal/min flow
Load (with gap filled and custom nozzle) - 39.7 deg C with 1.48 gal/min flow

Hope this helps out Martinm,
Jay

any pics of the washer? any specific type of washer?
09-14-2007, 05:33 PM
AndyM

And just when I thought I was done working on my machine...:ROTF:

Great find, thanks for the work!
09-15-2007, 11:21 PM
jayhall0315

Quote:

Originally Posted by nealh

any pics of the washer? any specific type of washer?

Nealh,
Just got to my new home in California and I am unpacking a ton of boxes. Once I find my Canon camera, I will get back to you with a photo.

Jay
09-16-2007, 05:15 AM
nealh

Quote:

Originally Posted by jayhall0315

Nealh,
Just got to my new home in California and I am unpacking a ton of boxes. Once I find my Canon camera, I will get back to you with a photo.

Jay

wow..thanks Jay that would be great

I hope the move went smoothly
09-16-2007, 11:41 PM
gOtVoltage

Just a thought....If you are not using a jet insert and dont want a bow from the 1.6mm O-ring, You should be able to use HIGH TEMP RTVblack Silocon.

Make a bead the size of a 1.6mm Oring and screw it back together let dry overnight before use and viola perfect seal that you can pull apart down the road too.:up:

Im shure the RVT will not permanetly bond to the Delrin,Thus making a flat sealing washer that is pliable yet will stick to the delrin and stay in place under Preshure... IE ,SVT/rousch engine tech, We Always use the RVT to seal DELRIN/Carbonfiber/Titanium/aluminum Intakes with great results even @240c block to intake temps lol. Also makes removal easy .The Rvt when fully dry would turn into the correct size gasket/oring in this case.:yepp:
09-17-2007, 02:20 AM
kevinbo03

Gonna go get an O-ring tommorow, Just wanted to know:

What did you use to make your nozzle (Martin)?

I was gonna get an end piece of PVC or something similar, But I just thought I'd see what you did.
09-17-2007, 05:11 AM
Martinm210

Yeah the RTV would work great to just seal.

BTW, I switched from my thinner flat washer to the 1.6mm o-ring and my temp results were the same, so the extra bowing didn't help my mount any, going back to the flat washer to lessen the bow.

I made my nozzle from some nylon anchors. They are a hard white nylon that came with some kitchen cabinet hinges for anchoring into soft wood. I have tons of them laying around from my kitchen rebuild, but you could probably find them at a home improvement center. I just had to sand the outside down a bit by hand to get them to press down nice and snug.
09-17-2007, 05:30 AM
kevinbo03

Haha, thats funny... Those things are holding up the shelf that is supporting laptop i am posting from... Mine are 5/16" though. :(

Im gonna bring my entire block and an allenhead wrench and just browse OSH for an hour looking for a good nozzle solution, O-ring/washer, And some bolts for a Hardmount. I'm hoping I may be able to find a PVC thing... Dont know what its called, but Ive seen it... That (with a little sanding and some drilling) will seal the middle gap and work as a nozzle. I don't know if ill find one with the right OD, Sure hope I do.
09-17-2007, 09:33 AM
Waterlogged

Seeing that I use push-in fittings, they tend to be their own nozzles. I think I'll just extend that "nozzle effect" by making my own "perfect length nozzle" out of some Delrin I have laying around and skip the washer all together.
09-28-2007, 05:54 AM
kinghong1970

quick question folks...

assuming we get a steady enough cut, the tubing material can be suitable o-ring ?

thanks
09-28-2007, 08:10 AM
Martinm210

Quote:

Originally Posted by kinghong1970

quick question folks...

assuming we get a steady enough cut, the tubing material can be suitable o-ring ?

thanks

Yeah, you could, I tried that. But the only way I was able to make a really nice finish was to stick the slice of tubing on a wooden down and sand it down on my benchtop disk sander.

Trying to cut a 1/16" or so sliver of tubing is alot harder than it may appear.

I was also just at Home Depot and they have bins of both felt and neoprene washers that would probably work well with a little tweaking.
09-28-2007, 08:32 AM
kinghong1970

thanks!
09-28-2007, 09:11 AM
LinusTech

The nozzles from D-TEK will also fill this gap if I understand correctly from what I've been told. This is soon to be a non-issue :)
09-28-2007, 10:02 AM
Martinm210

Quote:

Originally Posted by Linus@ncix

The nozzles from D-TEK will also fill this gap if I understand correctly from what I've been told. This is soon to be a non-issue :)

Cool!

Looking forward to the nozzles:up:
09-28-2007, 10:09 AM
iadstudio

Quote:

Originally Posted by Linus@ncix

The nozzles from D-TEK will also fill this gap if I understand correctly from what I've been told. This is soon to be a non-issue :)

What nozzles? They have them listed and people are talking about them, but I must say it is frustrating that they are not for sale yet.

I'm going to get an O-ring to fil the gap and be done with it. Wish I had a nozzle though.
09-28-2007, 11:16 AM
Baleful

Quote:

Originally Posted by iadstudio

What nozzles? They have them listed and people are talking about them, but I must say it is frustrating that they are not for sale yet.

I'm going to get an O-ring to fil the gap and be done with it. Wish I had a nozzle though.

I feel your pain. I emailed Danny more than two weeks ago, and he said they were expected to be on sale that week lol. I don't know what the problem is but i'm getting tired of waiting.
09-29-2007, 05:06 AM
nealh

Quote:

Originally Posted by Linus@ncix

The nozzles from D-TEK will also fill this gap if I understand correctly from what I've been told. This is soon to be a non-issue :)

will D-tek confirm this ...and is there any realistic ETA
09-29-2007, 06:02 AM
Thomas FJ

The nozzles are shipping to distributors and resellers now, as far as I'm informed.
/Thomas
09-29-2007, 10:36 AM
Zeus

Great find. :up:

My only concern is how do you know the o-ring is (and more important, stays!) still in place when you put the two halves together?

Soon as the o-ring slides out of the place the pupose is defeated or even worse, the o-ring is in the way of the inlet.

Using glue is something i'm reluctant to use as loose particles of the glue could get into the water.

How did you guys overcome this?
09-29-2007, 11:19 AM
Martinm210

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeus

Great find. :up:

My only concern is how do you know the o-ring is (and more important, stays!) still in place when you put the two halves together?

Soon as the o-ring slides out of the place the pupose is defeated or even worse, the o-ring is in the way of the inlet.

Using glue is something i'm reluctant to use as loose particles of the glue could get into the water.

How did you guys overcome this?

I was just very careful and looked down the inlet to ensure the o-ring stayed in place.

But for the flat washer I used a product call "Yamabond" it's a liquid gasket material meant for putting motorcycle engine cases back together, it's resistant to heat/gas/coolant/oil, so it's more than stable in a cool watered down glycol solution.
09-29-2007, 12:03 PM
nealh

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thomas FJ

The nozzles are shipping to distributors and resellers now, as far as I'm informed.
/Thomas

thank you

hjave you heard does the nozzle fix the gap issue??
09-30-2007, 05:35 AM
largon

Slipped in an o-ring to seal the gap and consequently bowing the base.

Result?
No improvement whatsoever.
09-30-2007, 06:44 AM
kinghong1970

ok, heres what i dont quite get...

http://www.dtekcustoms.com/ProductIm...FuZion_Dim.jpg

the O-ring goes in between the upper 2 (derlin/plastic) layers and it seems that at no point does the center middle layer comes in contact with the copper base...

should't the bowing occur in the plastic areas rather than the copper?

whereas in the GTX, you are forcing the copper over a thicker o-ring...

thanks.
09-30-2007, 07:17 AM
largon

The lip on the underside the middle layerdoes touch the pins. Dunno if that's the reason for the bowing but nevertheless the base plate was slightly convexed after the o-ring.
09-30-2007, 08:09 AM
nikhsub1

Quote:

Originally Posted by largon

Slipped in an o-ring to seal the gap and consequently bowing the base.

Result?
No improvement whatsoever.

Remount and try again. With the bowed fuzion consistent mounts are tough.
10-03-2007, 12:47 AM
Jedda

Quote:

Originally Posted by nealh

thank you

hjave you heard does the nozzle fix the gap issue??

Yes it does.
The gap is there because it's where the locating flange for the nozzle was supposed to go. Nozzle release has been delayed while they overcame flutter issues in that section. We're told that's been done and nozzles are enroute to selected outlets for appraisal. Should that prove satisfactory the nozzles will ship.
My guess is within the fortnight.
10-03-2007, 03:37 PM
nealh

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jedda

Yes it does.
The gap is there because it's where the locating flange for the nozzle was supposed to go. Nozzle release has been delayed while they overcame flutter issues in that section. We're told that's been done and nozzles are enroute to selected outlets for appraisal. Should that prove satisfactory the nozzles will ship.
My guess is within the fortnight.

:up:

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