CM Stacker 832 Dual Loop Work Log...

well, i guess i'm an addict... so here's my 3rd attempt at WC'ing, hopefully, i wont drill through the radiators this time and also with a wee bit more planning, hoping it comes out nicer than my previous 2...

Parts List:

Computer:
QX6700 Lapped (rcvd)
P5K Premium (rcvd)
4GB Crucial Ballistix Tracer DDR2-1066 (rcvd)
8800 Ultra (rcvd)
2x Raptor 74GB RAID 0 (rcvd & toasted :confused: )
1x Seagate Barracuda 320GB SATA 3.0 GB/S 7200RPM (rcvd)
DVD: hmm... I swear I wrote it down somewhere… but I got it and it’s SATA… I think… :hitself:

Loop 1: RAD > CPU > NB > SB > RES > PUMP > RAD
PA120.3 (rcvd)
D-Tek Fuzion (rcvd)
EK ASUS @ NB (rcvd)
EK ASUS @ SB (rcvd)
MCRES Retapped (rcvd)
DDC 3.2 18W + Derlin Top (rcvd)
YL D12SM-12 70.5CFM 33dBA
1/2" or 7/16" depending on which way the wind blows at time of purchase... :D

Loop2: RAD > GPU > RES > PUMP > RAD
PA160 (rcvd)
EK 8800 GTX FC Nickel (rcvd)
MCRES Retapped (rcvd)
DDC 3.2 18W + Derlin Top (rcvd)
YL D12SM-12 70.5CFM 33dBA
1/2" or 7/16"

As for general planning/layout, I am planning on modding the case moderately to mount the PA120.3 at bottom and PA160 at top.
I will do away with the quad fan grill at the side panels and opt for a quieter solution by also replacing the mesh with plexi, and using some material to offer some sort of sound insulation...

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...atorLayout.jpg


Well, to break up the project into stages, I hope to complete accordingly… and hope I can balance between workload and this project.

Part1: Heatload and Flowrates
Part2: Preliminary Setup: POST
Part3: Case Mods
Part4: WC Loop 1 Assembly
Part5: WC Loop 2 Assembly
Part6: Test/Temps/OC?

well, i'm trying to balance this build with my upcoming peak travel season so thanks in advance for your patience...

and any comments and suggestions are welcomed... i am still a noob at this so all the merrier...

i do get confused quite easily so... be warned... :D

i've lurked around a bit here and there and tried to find the most intelligent way of picking parts and planning the build...

i've read a thread (linked below) a couple of days ago was very informative and hopefully i got this done right...

For Heatloads, I used this link provided by Marci in his previous posts to get approximate heat load for each loop:

Loop 1 entered the following fields:
System Type: Single Processor
Motherboard: Regular
CPU: Intel Core2 Extreme QX6700
CPU Utilization: 100% TDP
Pump: Swiftech MCP 355

Heat Load: 148W (186W – 38W)
NB/SB Load: 100W*
HeatLoad: 248W

*note, as per post by Marci at http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...03&postcount=4 , I am estimating chipset to be at 100W.

Loop2 entered the following fields:
Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce 8800 Ultra
Pump: Swiftech MCP 355

Heat Load: 152W ( 190W – 38W)

Now, for flowrates, using MartinsWaterCooling FlowRateEstimator 1_7b, the following were the results:

Loop1: 1.58 GPM @
3’x ½” Tubing
1x D-Tek Fuzion
2x EK NF4 Rev1.1 (sub)
1x PA120.3
1x Lain DDC3.2+DDCT-01s
1x Reservoir (1/2” Barb)
1x T-Line (for drain)

Loop2: 1.95 GPM @
3’x ½” Tubing
1x EK-FC8800
1x PA160
1x Lain DDC3.2+DDCT-01s
1x Reservoir (1/2” Barb)
1x T-Line (for drain)

So in reference to the following charts from Thermochill

http://www.thermochill.com/PATesting...lowrateGPM.jpg

Loop1 utilizing PA120.3 with total heat load of 248W @ 1.58 GPM, Nexus 12v or 1212 7v should be sufficient, hence by choosing the YL D12SM-12 70.5CFM 33dBA I should have appx 500W of heat dissipation, giving me ample head room.
Even assuming max CPU load at OC’d to be at 250W + 100W NB/SB for total of 350W, the current selections should provide me ample headroom for “worst case scenario”.

http://www.thermochill.com/PATesting...lowrateGPM.jpg

Loop2 utilizing PA160 with total heat load of 152W @ 1.98 GPM, I will need at least 1212M 7V to provide ample heat dissipation. And again, my choice of YL D12SM-12 70.5CFM 33dBA I should have appx 225W of heat dissipation @ 2.0 GPM, hence giving me ample head room for a single card configuration…

Note: as per Thermochill's site:
Pf H = Panaflo FBA12G12-H1A - 105cfm, 6.8mmH2O, 41.5dBA @ 12v (Factory spec)
1212M = Delta WFB1212M - 72.4cfm, 3.4mmH2O, 34dBA @ 12v (Factory spec)
Nexus = Nexus D12SL-12 - 36.8cfm, 22.8dBA @12v (Factory spec)


again, i am new at this so if you guys spot something wrong here, pls by all means, let me know... thanks!

Nice project. I should try to draw something like this for mine.
My $0.02:

- some guys here said that a negative air pressure inside the case is a good thing. Did you plan for the side panel fans to pull air out of the case?
- You could add a Hi end board at the psu calculator to preview your mobo heat load. It should be around 50W according to the PSU calc.
- I don't see any reason to go for a PA160 for the GPU when you have spare cooling at the PA120.3 but the flow restriction. Why don't loose the hot nvidia mobo and buy an Intel P35 or the new X38 and cut the NB/SB loop? Even if you want just one loop it should achieve 1.31 GPM. Not great but according to Marci flowrate impact is over estimated

now this is sweet, I like a lot. So lets get to the ideas. Some thoughts:
Will the PA160 fit? wont it interfere with something? PSU maybe?
I dont like (xtreme performance-wise) having two NB blocks with a CPU in one loop, although the EKs dont restrict much. I know that in the way you have it, there is nothing sticking out of the case, but have you came across the idea of having a PA120 or MCR 240's or 360's attached at the back of the case in a lopp where are the GPU and both NB blocks? And still double check if it all fits, the PA rads are quite huge :)

This looks very interesting :) I'm sure you have seen the other 830 WC, so good luck.

Only issue is the PA160 is mightly cramp up there, so you may have to make some modifications up there.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by leo_bsb

- some guys here said that a negative air pressure inside the case is a good thing. Did you plan for the side panel fans to pull air out of the case?

---

well, i plan to do away with the side fans all together... i am not fond of having too many fans especially at the side of the case... i am a bit concerned in that i will have at least 5 fans pushing air in and 2 fans dedicated to pushing air out of case, perhpas i will keep mesh at one of the side panels... i really hoped not to tho.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by leo_bsb

- You could add a Hi end board at the psu calculator to preview your mobo heat load. It should be around 50W according to the PSU calc.

---

i've ran a couple of scenarios and it seems that with the headroom i have, it can handle the additional 50w...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by leo_bsb

- I don't see any reason to go for a PA160 for the GPU when you have spare cooling at the PA120.3 but the flow restriction. Why don't loose the hot nvidia mobo and buy an Intel P35 or the new X38 and cut the NB/SB loop? Even if you want just one loop it should achieve 1.31 GPM. Not great but according to Marci flowrate impact is over estimated

---

um... i have a Asus P5K Premium... iirc, that is a P35 board... as for the PA160, i own it already... so might as well put it to use... i am itching to do a dual loop...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Aerosupra

now this is sweet, I like a lot. So lets get to the ideas. Some thoughts:
Will the PA160 fit? wont it interfere with something? PSU maybe?
I dont like (xtreme performance-wise) having two NB blocks with a CPU in one loop, although the EKs dont restrict much. I know that in the way you have it, there is nothing sticking out of the case, but have you came across the idea of having a PA120 or MCR 240's or 360's attached at the back of the case in a lopp where are the GPU and both NB blocks? And still double check if it all fits, the PA rads are quite huge :)

---

yea, the PA160 mounting is the biggest issue i have... my PSU is a tad longer but still not oversized like those Galaxy's... so i should be OK, i taped it and marked up the top of the chassis and it seems that i have room to raise my 160 only bout 1/2" to 3/4" above the chassis top frame before it touches the top panel.
definitely dont want to mount it to the top panel since it would mean my tubes will have to have too much slack...

as for NB/SB, i figured i have the most headroom available on my PA120.3 loop and hence my choice there. i have seen folks mounting rads to the back, and in all honesty, i am not fond of it. i like to see it inside, clean on the outside... hence one of my biggest challenge is to somehow prop up the case appx 3~4 inches and then create a leg/foot/skirt that will cover it nicely without hindering airflow.... and prolly put some velcro around the floor to catch thems dust bunnies... :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SP33DFR34K

This looks very interesting :) I'm sure you have seen the other 830 WC, so good luck.

Only issue is the PA160 is mightly cramp up there, so you may have to make some modifications up there.

---

thanks... yea, the PA160 is going to be a challenge... but...

Bright Yellow n Black Drill of Ultimate Destruction: Check!
Jigsaw: Check!
Enthusiasm: Check!
Stupidity: Check!
Pissed off Wife:... sadly... Check!

so.. thanks for the feedback...
post some pics later on...

then gooood luck, maybe, if there is some room left, you could consider a second pump to the cpu, 2 nb loop ...
Try that out - leave the gpu with stock heatsink for the time and try one pump and then try adding the second and measure the diff,
congratz on such a nice and fairly complicated project, keep us posted :up:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Aerosupra

then gooood luck, maybe, if there is some room left, you could consider a second pump to the cpu, 2 nb loop ...
Try that out - leave the gpu with stock heatsink for the time and try one pump and then try adding the second and measure the diff,
congratz on such a nice and fairly complicated project, keep us posted :up:

---

tyvm...

but serioursly, you got me thinking... should i keep the CPU loop all by itself?
with the PA120.3, there's an awful lot it can still do... and putting the CPU loop on the PA160 is not that comforting to me atm.

as for PA120.3 being HUGE... yea... it is HUUUUUUUGE...

but over at the Slacker Stacker thread, i saw GameGuru work on his case, and hence got idea of mounting it at the bottom...

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...Picture037.jpg
*Note, Pic from GameGuru's work...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kinghong1970

um... i have a Asus P5K Premium... iirc, that is a P35 board... as for the PA160, i own it already... so might as well put it to use... i am itching to do a dual loop...

---

Well, the P35 doesnt really need NB/SB blocks. But if you want to go dual loop who am I to tell you not to do?:ROTF:
Good luck, you already started doing some great planning.
regarding the fans, I'm having the same problem. I'll do more research on negative/positive pressure and if it is relevant. Right now the only solution I found is to reverse the ATX recomendations for air circulation inside my case: I'll have cold air from the top and hot air exiting at the bottom. You coudn't do that cause you are already using the front bottom fan to push into the PA160

@ leo,

yea, well, you know, there are times i dont take the time and ask myself those self check questions... normally that happens when i'm in an electronics store... i think my wife had something to do with the closing down of CompUSA near my house...

why do we do the things we do?...

:D

well, basically, if there is enough airflow into the case from the front, then i should still be ok to re-arrange my fans to push air out of the case, through the radiator right? hence:

PA160 will have the fan pull internal air through the shroud, out through the radiator,

PA120.3 will have fan pull internal air through the rad, out the bottom of the radiator...

my main concern here is, will i have enough air to pull out of case?
i am pulling "warmed" air from inside the case...

Very cool idea. I like your plans for the PA160 that's pretty original. I have a Stacker 830 with a single loop at the moment, but I'm thinking of doing dual loops as well. The only issue I see with your 160 is that is a great spot for hot air to escape. Trying to pull cold air in there might not be effective. Also is your Power Supply modular? If not, you may not have a lot of room with any extra cables. Just a thought...

I have my 2x120 rad mounted in the front pulling air from outside.

Because your space restricted why don't you consider 1x 2x120 mounted in the front pulling air from outside and 1x 2x120 mounted on the bottom exhausting.

Just a thought.

Pics Pls!

nice plan :up:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by _Slim_Shady_

Very cool idea. I like your plans for the PA160 that's pretty original. I have a Stacker 830 with a single loop at the moment, but I'm thinking of doing dual loops as well. The only issue I see with your 160 is that is a great spot for hot air to escape. Trying to pull cold air in there might not be effective. Also is your Power Supply modular? If not, you may not have a lot of room with any extra cables. Just a thought...

---

SlimShady, my PSU is modular and furthermore, the PA160 is wide but the portion that is nearest the PSU cables will be the shroud and so i am thinking that i have enough room to play with... worst case scenario is to turn that sucker 90deg at risk of loosing some structural strength, that way, i do have clearance from PSU.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by david256

I have my 2x120 rad mounted in the front pulling air from outside.

Because your space restricted why don't you consider 1x 2x120 mounted in the front pulling air from outside and 1x 2x120 mounted on the bottom exhausting.

Just a thought.

---

thanks for the idea, sadly, the other PA120.2 that i had, i was over zealous with my DeWalt drill and i pretty much got a good look at the insides of one of these radiators... and i own a PA160 on hand...

plus, i like the way the PA160 basically fits the size of the top screen...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Patriote

Pics Pls!

---

let me get some pics worthy of posting...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by The_Beast

nice plan :up:

---

thank you...

now i am a bit concerned about the air flow...

1)i am NOT going to use the side panel 4x120 fan grid and so the side panels will not be offering any active air flow.
2)the side panels will not offer much air flow for they will be replaced with plexiglass
3)the MB will be mounted in "BTX style" )?) (CPU downwards, PCI slots at top)

here's plan 1, original thought...
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...torLayout2.jpg
this layout basically means i will have 4 x 70 CFM, and at least 1 additional fan blowing air into the case through the HDD cage.
whereas the only fan blowing air out of the case will be the 120mm fan near CPU area and the weak fan mounted on the PSU.
even if i do get a louder and higher CFM fan at the back of case, still there is a lot more air pumped into the case...

after reading your comments... here's plan 2...
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...torLayout3.jpg
where air flow into the case is provided by PA160 at top, the HDD Cage fan and another fan mounted at front...
the bottom PA120.3 will pull out the inner air, hopefully cooler air provided by the lower front intake fan, and push out of the case.

my concern now is that the PA120.3 does not have enough cool air supply...

the PA160 air will be warmed by the radiator, and also the inner parts
the HDD cage air will also be warmer-ish since it would have passed through the HDD and some hardware...
the lower intake fan is probably the only fan that provides cooler air that passes directly over the PA120.3 but then it also flows through the RAM and CPU/MOSFET area as well.

perhaps place a higher CFM fan at the lower front intake?

just some thoughts...

i'd really hate to use that big fan grid on the side panel...

thanks!

well, I would never pull warm air through the rad. There is no benefit from it.
You will need to test all possible configurations, but pushing cool air through the rad is always the best option as far as I learn something right.
You couldo a positive pressure case, leaving a mesh on the side panel to exit the air.

to be honest, i cant imagine how you will mount pa120.3
ive measured my case hundred times but still dont have any idea, there are only 5cm between bottom and mobo, theoretically you may lift mobo at 1cm more, so itll be 6 cm with 5.9 height in radiator.. ant there are fans also ..
it's a real challenge to mount this, problem #1 for stacker 830 owners

rioja, see the pic up there with the hole cut out and edge molded? well the PA120.3 will be outside of that chassis, not inside of the chassis.

also, flipping it upside down and mounting the MB tray so the MB will be mounted semi BTX style gives a wee bit more room...

as for bottom, i will need to extend the legs to give ample clearance.

If you need to, only pull in through the rads, have even the front fan be exhaust.

IDK what kind of PSU you'll be using, nor do I know much about CFM through a PSU, so I can't help there. BUT, the SMs will only be pulling ~40CFM each through a PA (they only do 55ish CFM at 12V, not 70), and the '110CFM' fan you have on the side panel is actually 87CFM....and that mesh looks fairly limiting, so let's say 80CFM.

4x40 in = 160 in
80+55+PSU = 135+PSU out

....that's with only the rads pulling in cool air :)

Vapor, thanks for taking time and working out the numbers.... it helps noobs like me understand what you are talking about...

couple of things...

1) according to Plan1, then i have 5x40cfm (1@PA160, 1@HDD Cage, 3@PA120.3) hence total air in will be 200cfm

2) i dont quite understand where you get the 55cfm in the out... are you suggesting reversing the HDD cage fan direction such that air flow through the HDD and out the front of case?

as for PSU, well, i jumped in and got a X3 1000-Watt Energy Efficient Modular Power Supply (ULT40064)...

hmm... so i guess the 70 cfm is when it is not hindered by any radiator... thanks for the info. so the performance of the Thermochills are also take this into consideration? the CFM posted there are the CFM of fans w/o any obstacles?

thanks again!

Let me interject here. I have done this and I know kinghong1970 has been following some of my work over in the Stacker Slacker thread so I'll post some here as well. I am almost done with my system and will be testing my temps soon which I will report back with. I can tell you that the air coming in from the bottom of the case is very cool, I'm using 3 YL SL's. (Imagine if you put your system over a register in your house with AC :) ) Anyhow I don't see how the air from the floor is going to be that much hotter than what's inside your case already, and the cool air coming up in the case cools the MB components before it exits the top and back. Like I said before though at this time I don't have the temp readings to back this up but I can say the air coming in the case is pretty damn cool.


http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...ker_832045.jpg

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...ker_832148.jpg

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...ker_832144.jpg

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...ker_832029.jpg

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...Picture021.jpg

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...Picture038.jpg

sexy lol

damn, very nice!

Yeah very sexy! :D

Thanks guys! Wait till I get the sides done, they'll be chrome :)

Nice

Just a little update here. Finally got things put together and got some temp readings. Clocking my Q6600 between 3.7 and 4.0 temps are around 55* under load (stressing with small ffts) and idle right around 30*. I still need to take a reading of how cold the air is coming in from the bottom of the case but at least that gives you an idea of the cooling capabilities with the fans pulling air in. Also in case your worried about dust pulling in the case, just custom cut yourself a filter to cover the rad.

GameGuru
do you have a photo how is your d5 seats there?
still dont know is it possible to mount two d5 at the bottom

As a gift, I received one of these HSPC cases… well, it’s time to put it to use, make sure all works, no RMA’s…

Minor set back… well, 2 setbacks...
I’ve connected a single raptor to the rig to see if all works, recognizes all peripherals to realize my HDD does not show up… well, come to think of it now, it was warmer than usual but being that It’s a weekend and I’ve given my brain 2 days off… it took a Snap, Crackle, Pop and a Smoke Signal from my 2nd HDD to make me realize that something was wrong… hence 2 HDD down the drain…

WD RMA rocks! got new drive and all parts working...

i changed the MB from a P5K Premium to a DFI UT P35 T2R and it took a while but the green is growing on me...

had to change some parts for something else since i wont be using an ASUS board anymore... such as the EK NB/SB blocks...

i have MCW30 so i am thinking about putting them to use... but still considering...

after firing it up with the stock HSF, i put the PA160 to cool the CPU...
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...0/IMG_1703.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...0/IMG_1704.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...0/IMG_1705.jpg

been a bit busy and haven't been able to spend more than an hour at a time but slowly... progressing...

1.MB tray
a. Measure and cut CPU bracket hole
b. Measure and cut 24 pin ATX hole
c. Measure and cut holes for SATA
d. Measure and cut holes for 4 pin CPU PWR
e. Measure and cut misc holes for i/o, Firewire, USB, Sound...
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...0/IMG_1694.jpg

the CPU hole got a bit messy but eh... i used the knock-out tool for most of the 1" holes and the rest, jigsaw was the way to go...

2.Chassis
a. Cut hole for PA160 at top of chassis
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...0/IMG_1690.jpg

b. Cut hole for PA120.3 at bottom of chassis
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...0/IMG_1693.jpg

c. Cut necessary holes for cable management
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...0/IMG_1691.jpg
this hole basically allows me to pull out all the power cables to the side, then behind the MB tray... in theory...

d. Paint
the painting thread talks about 2-3 coats of primer, then couple of coats of paint... with wet-sanding in between... ok... all sounded great... till after the first coat of primer... hell with it... i just lost patience... but end result is not bad...

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...0/IMG_1711.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...0/IMG_1713.jpg

matte black paint on the internals is not too bad looking...

here's couple of pics with the 120.3 placed in the bottom...
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...0/IMG_1714.jpg
if you look closely, the edges are not straight but it's not noticeable.

i used a pair of YL's to raise the case to see how it's going to mount when finished...
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...0/IMG_1722.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...0/IMG_1715.jpg
basically, the radiator will come through the case 15mm and the balance under the case...

next i am going to take the 160 off the current test setup and start mounting the radiators to the case.
easiest way is to take aluminum L brackets and mount em...

well, that's all for now...

appreciate any/all comments.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rioja

GameGuru
do you have a photo how is your d5 seats there?
still dont know is it possible to mount two d5 at the bottom

---

I would say no, I don't see how you would get two D5's in the bottom if your mounting a rad in the bottom as well. See my sig for pics.

looking good kinghong

thanks... i checked the MB tray last nite... not the cleanest paint job but it gets hidden when i assemble the computer...

the case, i think i am going to get a sander and shave off a bit so i can put the edge trims... the 120.3 is too tight right now...

hope to get more works this weekend...

sounds good, shave/sand around edges, put edge trims, put PA rad snuggly...

what size are the channel moldings? planning to add some to my CM832 mod

well, one of my worst fears came true last nite... the PA160 is too close to the PSU...

to make it fit, i need to move the PSU 3/4" to 1" to the front... but sadly, the drive bay structure gives me only about 1/2" room...

either i will get longer screws to keep the PSU sticking out or see about cutting the chassis a bit more...

@ iceredwing, i replied to you via PM but in case, get edge molding that has inner channel wider than 1/8"
the CM seems to be thicker than the Lian Li's

bring on the dremel and reinforced cutting disks.....
and the safety goggles too...

hmm or stick the PSU 1 inch out of chassis?...

yea... it was quite late when i realized this...

the PSU option may happen because the barbs may make the cutting way more complicated...

well, in any case... i will see when i get home tonight...

hm, i'm going to put 120.2 on top with standart psu seasonic 700w
and i still think it's posiible)
parts are coming next week so we'll see

damn... it's been so long since i've started this... but i haven't given up...

work keep getting in the way of this...

i was able to setup my "workshop" in my garage... and did most of the case modding work done...

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...0/IMG_1931.jpg
i love those older office furnitures that weigh a ton... great and quite sturdy enough to bolt a 3" clamp...

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...0/IMG_1935.jpg
in order to clear the X3 PSU at back, i had to move the PA160 way up front... and due to the shroud, it pretty much left the first bay useless for a DVD drive so i am going to mount my card reader there.

also used aluminum L-shaped brackets to mount my PA160. i decided to use 6-32 socket machined screws for mount.
drilled additional holes on the radiator to stabilize the mount more...

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...0/IMG_1937.jpg
the barb outlet of the 160 also ran into the bay frames so more dremmel and knock-out work there... but end finish is not bad...

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...0/IMG_1934.jpg
and 2 holes for fill ports from reservoir to the case...

i was thinking of fixing the fill port to the top panel cover but that would mean that i need to place enough slack in the tubes... not going to happen... i'm running out of room already... so i dont mind opening the top lid in order to access the fillport...

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...0/IMG_1936.jpg
pic of the PA120.3 mounted on the bottom...
i am planning on blowing the air out of the case and i think i have enough clearance... if not... i can get bigger casters for bout 1/4"~ 3/8" additional clear... else, i will find me some blocks of wood i guess...

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...0/IMG_1933.jpg
another shot of the mounting rail for the 120.3...

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...0/IMG_1932.jpg
and from the back side...

i had difficulties mounting both reservoir and pumps into this case... it's not as roomy as i'd originally imagined... but solution came about in the form of EK-Multioption 100... so cute... and size wise is similar to that of the MCRES but the barb position gave me that little elbow room needed...

i need to make mounting brackets to mount the RES across and behind the HDD areas of the 5 1/4" bays and also plan to cut up a old CD Drive case to mount the pumps...

as for airflow, i want to push case air out of the bottom, thru the PA120.3... not the most ideal solution but i do hope that i have enough supply of cool air to sufficiently cool it... else, i guess i have to open up the case and flip the fans...

here's a graphic rendition...
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...ayoutFinal.jpg

and yea... i should have planned it better before cuttin and paintin... but heck...

Keep us updated with more pictures as you progress, always interesting to see how people approach problems and how they solve different dilemmas.

Ah first time I spotted this! I wanted one of those cases before I got my 3D Aurora 570, but I couldn't afford it :p: Also I couldn't figure out how to stick a triple rad in there but I see that is taken care of. Can't wait to see this progress :up:

this build is looking great!!! can't wait to see the finished rig looks very promising indeed!!

I actually got rid of my stacker 830 in favour of a v2000....because i thought the 830 was a terrible wc case..i still have it 2... maybe i should use it on a another wc build :)

The blue and the orange colors are sexy :D

are there any updates on this?

he he he... by the time i finish this, my computer may be outdated...

anyways, recent work loads and such...
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...oticons/60.gif

plus the holiday seasons... busy season for dads, my lil girls are looking at me...
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...moticons/4.gif
every nite...

couple of updates to report.

PUMP:
ok, detoured a bit here... i decided to buy Danger Den Derlin T right at front of the pump and pull out Drain T from there...

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_1957.jpg

i used the DD G1/4 x G1/4 nipple and rest are combo of 1/2" D-Tek & EK Barbs did not want to spend more money on this...

the fit is interesting... but i have to admit, EK and the DD Nipple does not give a nice fit as the D-Tek so i used Teflon... i will put this to leak testing... i'm will hope for the best but...

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_1943.jpg

i am mounting 2 DDC3.2 on the 5 1/4" bay side by side, using a standoff for some airflow.

here i used 6-32 x 1 1/2" screw, bunch of washers, aluminum standoff, and more locknuts and Home Depot goodies for my pump mount screws... hopefully it will hold.

here i took a Aluminum panel from my previous mod (a LL PC-V1200 case), some sandwich with 1/4" plywoods, wood screws to hold in place, jigsaw and hole saw... voila!

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_1965.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_1966.jpg

edges were bent using a vise, block of wood and mallet.

not the cleanest... off centered a bit... but will do... hopefully the paintjob will hide the flaws.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...oticons/11.gif

here's some pic of pump assembly's... and a better shot of the plug i'm using at end of drain...

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_1955.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_1952.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_1958.jpg

RESERVOIR:
EK Multires 100 x 2 helped a ton on my res placement.
i did not want to share 1 RES with my 2 loops...

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_1948.jpg

bottom hole is the OUTLET to feed PUMP, side hole for the INLET, top hole for FillPort via Koolance's swivelin fittings... the 3/8" tubing fit with the Koolance, and i had some spare 3/8" barbs so... here's what my RES assembly will finally look like.

the fill ports goes off to each side of the case, if you see my last post, i drilled the holes for the Fill Ports... Derlin of course...

again, i will have to remove the top lid in order to access the fillports.

i dont intend to cut more holes on top of my case at the moment... and how often will you access it? eh?

btw, the EK mounting clips are very weak... and i was dissappointed with how easy they break... i had to purchase aftermarket clips to hold em... much nicer quality...

FAN CONTROL:
i purchased Sunbeam Theta TP101 Software Fan Controller from P-PC's and instead of having all that fan wires and thermo sensor wires cluttering up a slot, i decided to remove the metal slot thingy and mount that sucker to the hidden side of my chassis...

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_1959.jpg

using the MB standoffs... just need to get a good measure, drill and also, shave a bit off on the Theta board.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_1962.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_1961.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_1960.jpg

i think it fits nicely... will be much cleaner than seeing that mess of wires in the slot...

i've used a knockout to punch out 2 holes for cable access/management... it 's bout 1" Dia hole so it should be enough to squeeze molex and misc cables.

my case and parts are being painted in my wharehouse atm...

in the meantime... some eye-candy...

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_1946.jpg
ooh, that nickel sure is purdy!!!

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_1945.jpg
i've taken it appart and re-did all the tubing and re-seat the blocks... and i had to place the nozzle too... 7/16" - 9/16 OD tubes are real flexible... was able to do a CPU-NB loop using the 2 closest barb, making sure that the upper barb is OUTLET to ease in bleeding...

i will try to post more pics later...

thanks for your interest...

time for a break... laterz...
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...oticons/67.gif

whaaah! that's gonna look priceless sweet! I like the little EK res's :)

more updates!!! woohoo :)

keep it up
:up:

yeah this is looking nice :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jabski

yeah this is looking nice :)

---

-understatement :yepp:

But my only question is, how does the "theta" fan controller hook up to the fans?

ahh... the Theta has connectors along the Right edge (which is along the top edge if you install it on the PCI slot as they've intended... plus there's a bank of connectors for the thermo sensors as well as 1x molex...

got some pics to update shortly... and i knocked out a couple of holes to pull all wires to the Theta...

theta connects to the USB port in back but i'm hoping to connect it to a USB header on the MB.

kinghong, Please let us know how you make out with that Theta. I've had one for a while now waiting for me to get around to the build it's going into. I've seen some "subjective" type comments about them being "not really all that usable" mainly due to software. It would be nice if someone I know (who knows what they're doing) could shine a better light on this product. :up:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Waterlogged

It would be nice if someone I know (who knows what they're doing) could shine a better light on this product. :up:

---

...um... you talkin bout me? OMG!?!?!?! i am supposed to know what i'm doing?

:rofl: :ROTF:

ok, all kiddin aside... i am was hoping to finish this build this weekend.. but it turns out that it was my baby girl's 1st b-day and my wife had planned a party... she swears she told me about it... but i must have been doped up on nyquil...

let me try to finish the build and take it out for a spin...

Well, I have more faith in you than some of the schmucks I've seen do their "reviews" (<used very very loosely) on the Theta.

[QUOTE=kinghong1970;2479821]
d. Paint
the painting thread talks about 2-3 coats of primer, then couple of coats of paint... with wet-sanding in between... ok... all sounded great... till after the first coat of primer... hell with it... i just lost patience... but end result is not bad...
QUOTE]

:rofl:
I like that....I might just do that...what brand or where did you get the primer and matte black paint?

Any updates to this thread?

I've had a Theta kicking around here for about a year. Never used it. Don't know if I can bring myself to after using a T-Balancer in the past. Let us know how it works.

[QUOTE=Cpl Ledanek;2645017]

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kinghong1970

d. Paint
the painting thread talks about 2-3 coats of primer, then couple of coats of paint... with wet-sanding in between... ok... all sounded great... till after the first coat of primer... hell with it... i just lost patience... but end result is not bad...
QUOTE]

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kinghong1970

:rofl:
I like that....I might just do that...what brand or where did you get the primer and matte black paint?

---

sorry for the late reply... i used Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer and same brand Matte Black spray can... patience would have paid off but it was just too cold in my garage...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Nsidious9

Any updates to this thread?

---

i have completed the CPU loop and giving it test runs... but i have some bleeding issues... i will try to post some pics later... sorry... my progress is real slow... and i will be traveling again for half of january... well, hope tomorrow i can get some work done...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by lowfat

I've had a Theta kicking around here for about a year. Never used it. Don't know if I can bring myself to after using a T-Balancer in the past. Let us know how it works.

---

will do... as for hooking up the fans... it seems easy... but i dont know if i'm going to add any thermo sensors... again, this project taking so long... i want to put things up and running before any thing else...

but will try my best to be informative about the theta...

progress? any new photos?

sorry folks... i'm stuck in Paris/Milan at the moment...

will be back in about 10 days and hopefully i have all my orders in house by then.

updates?

sorry guys, it's fashion week in NYC, Milan and Paris and i'm off traveling...

be back home in a week and hope to get some time finishing my build.

again, sorry,... i think my system setup will be outdated by the time i finish this project... well, at least at this rate... lol

you back from your traveling adventures?

i'm looking forward to more updates on this stacker..

I also have a stacker waiting in the wings to be modded and wc'ed :)

yep, finally back...

should have some time to work on this weekend...
actually, have some minor devs but will post em together...

pretty much finished the CPU loop... now the graphics loop to the PA160...

yea, i'm waiting too
will u use any more control panels? maybe water temp sensor etc?

well, i opted for the theta because as far as i know, i can interface it within windows and control and monitor temps and fans.

it did come with some temp probes but i dont think i'll mess with it for the time being.

the build will only be with the fan monitoring.

the theta mounted firmly to the side of my case.

thanks for your interest guys.
work has been keeping me quite busy these days.

sorry for the delay.

Can't wait to see what it looks like when done. CM Stacker 830/832's really are some of the best cases on the market.

well, it seems that i've done some work before my trip and i've loaded the pics on photobucket...

here's the final pump assembly, i opted not to use the derlin elbow on top of pump, instead, if i twist the tubes, it kinda spirals itself into position without kinking... and the smartcoils actually help it twist into place.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_2156.jpg

this was the initial tubing setup, each loop having a drainT at bottom, but due to size of the res, bleeding was difficult and all air bubbles keep circulating into the loop.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_2158.jpg

so revised loop, i added a Derin T to connect to the res at top, in essence, being a T-line with mini reservoir.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_2566.jpg
bleeding did take some time but the air bubbles did not go back into the loop from the res... i did have to do some repetitions of case-aerobics but it works ok..
the green loop is final, the blue loop is only temporary, leak testing and just checking the positioning of the tubing... see if all fits without any kinks.

also, the color scheme... hmm... i think i like the green of the hydrix, but the pentosin blue is throwing it off... i was thinking of doing the second loop in yellow... to match my MB... but eh... bling is secondary.

here's another shot of the Derlin T under the reservoir.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_2569.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_2570.jpg
the Derlin T was used with screw locking "glue" so it stays in place. one locked into place but the other one swivels, but still, no leaks so all's good.

here's a view of the pump assembly and the PA120.3.
i found nice tube holding clips at the local ace and it gives a nice "controlled" llook to the PA120.3 tube.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_2568.jpg

here's a view of the PA120.3 at backside, again, smartcoils and twisting helps me to manage the tubing around in a tight space... no kinks...
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_2567.jpg

ah yes, pro mount... i really did not care much for the D-Tek's butterfly plate... and lo and behold... Petra's got these beauties... sure, i take my system apart but... dont it look sweet?
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_2571.jpg

here's a view from afar, the blue loop is the one for the 8800Ultra+PA160.
my original plan is to mount the 140mm fan on it but i'm not able to custom make a shroud at the moment so i'm using a 120mm fan for the time being.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_2572.jpg

here's the 2 light switches that will control the 2 ccfl's inside the case... and i can control it on or off.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_2573.jpg

here's a view of the theta, it's beginning to be cluttered but no worries, it's not visible back there... imagine that clutter in one of the PCI slots... shakes:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_2574.jpg

here's a view of the MB tray taht you wont be seeing...

i should have followed rioja's idea and just cut off bout 2" of the MB Tray right off... eh... too late now...
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...g/IMG_2575.jpg

well, the 2nd loop and lighting... as well as some case mods and that's bout it...

hopefully, i can finish it before this chipset becomes obsolete...

cheers!

hey looks great man. alot of good ideas and i like the scheme :up:

Very nice!!!!

so did u finish it? any final pics?

Holy Resurrecting threads Batman!!!

sorry Rioja, i've been pulled away from this project... life has a tendency of getting in way of hobbies.

was thinking of selling the parts but so far, it's all boxed in my garage...

buddy was trying to sell me his Voodoo Omen case... but haven't heard from him since... current economy also put a strain on this project as well...

one of these days... hopefully...

i am similar, project was stopped in april for unknown reason but now i decided to continue. so now in crysis i dont need to buy anything, i have all parts new right out of box. i hope to make first launch for leak testing today or tomorrow. and in your htread i've seen again how u managed with some things. you has done great work in overall!

sorry for thread necro, but this is a sweeet build mate!

Nice :yepp:

Holy Thread Necro Batman!!!

um... as per my legal counsel, i'd like to plead... um... the Naekuh... i've not yet finished this build... :D
actually, been looking at it the other day...
thinking of putting the build into a TJ07...

but dayum... that Naekuh influence is really strong...

:D