Iwaki RD30...for those that have experience with one, I have a few questions please

Hello Xtreme liquid members.

Quick question for those of you that have worked with the Iwaki RD30.

First, Iwaki rates the noise level at 40db which seems rather loud, but I'm assuming it's running at the fully rated level at that point and most likely with a 24v powersupply.

Second, I would like to have a variable powersupply from 12v to 24v for this unit and to have it wired to be triggered by the case. Has anyone found a solution for this?

If it's too loud then I don't want it.

If I can't have it automatically triggered by the computers on switch then I won't do that either.

Thanks.:up:

PS, I searched for a solution and pm'd a member without any results.

I've never owned a RD30 (too freakin expensive) so I can't help you on the noise part. But I do know you can use this to switch the pump PSU on and off:

http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadenpuresw.html

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Think

...the Iwaki RD30.

First, Iwaki rates the noise level at 40db

If it's too loud then I don't want it.

If I can't have it automatically triggered by the computers on switch

---

Some thinks you may want to know, hopefully you haven't pulled the trigger yet.

The RD series have US motors...less reliable/more noise. The MD series have the quiet dependable Japanese motors.

You want the high pressure model, not the standard model nor the high flow model.

The 30 series are a little too much for watercooling computers. You will find that the extra flow they (the high flow model) can give is overcome by the massive heat dump. The MD20 high flow series is more appropriate.

Yes, it's 120V. Just plug your computer/pump into a power strip and use that to control both pump and computer. Or just let the pump run continuously.

Noise...not 40 db! Not annoying. A little louder than an Ehein 1048...which is near silent.

With all due respect billb you are mixing apples and oranges.

The RD30 the OP is asking about is a DC pump.

The MD series you mention are AC pumps.

Look at the sticky about pumps for clarification.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by billb

The RD series have US motors...less reliable/more noise. The MD series have the quiet dependable Japanese motors.

---

I'm with MrToad on this one, you seem a little confused. The RD series pumps are Japanese made, high pressure, 24V DC pumps. You're thinking of the MD and WMD series pumps which are the Japanese and American motored, relatively low head pressure, 120V AC circulation pumps.

It's definitely the 24v versions that I'm looking at now if it's the US or Jap version is questionable and I'll figure that out:

http://www.jab-tech.com/Iwaki-RD-30-...p-pr-3849.html

I believe that you do have a point with the heat dump problem but I think that if you can regulated the voltage, you can control the heat dump and hopefully the noise with not too much of a hit on pressure.

But since I have no experience dealing with this pump, the noise would really tick me off more then anything else so that's why I would like to see what people have experienced with these pumps.

BTW, I do appreciate all the replies.

Thank you.:)

So, anyone have any 1st hand experience with the RD20 and/or RD30?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Think

It's definitely the 24v versions that I'm looking at now if it's the US or Jap version is questionable and I'll figure that out:

http://www.jab-tech.com/Iwaki-RD-30-...p-pr-3849.html

I believe that you do have a point with the heat dump problem but I think that if you can regulated the voltage, you can control the heat dump and hopefully the noise with not too much of a hit on pressure.

But since I have no experience dealing with this pump, the noise would really tick me off more then anything else so that's why I would like to see what people have experienced with these pumps.

BTW, I do appreciate all the replies.

Thank you.:)

So, anyone have any 1st hand experience with the RD20 and/or RD30?

---

There big. So make sure you plan out.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0658.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0659.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0660.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0661.jpg

Average setup for a RD-30:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0663.jpg

You NEED a psu. I would highly recomend a meanwell S150-24.

As for noise, i dont see the need of having that pump on high. I have it on the lowest setting and it does fine. You WILL, and i cant emphasize this statement enough, NEED Petra's Gell Stuff. The thing vibrates like no other. And if you have it mounted on plate steel or alu, its gonna make a LOUD humm noise.

If its on the gell stuff, and you have it on low, then its the best pump ive owned.


Oh the meanwell is adjustable so u can vario it from 19-26V well thats my meanwell's range.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NaeKuh

There big. So make sure you plan out.

Average setup for a RD-30:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0663.jpg

You NEED a psu. I would highly recomend a meanwell S150-24.

As for noise, i dont see the need of having that pump on high. I have it on the lowest setting and it does fine. You WILL, and i cant emphasize this statement enough, NEED Petra's Gell Stuff. The thing vibrates like no other. And if you have it mounted on plate steel or alu, its gonna make a LOUD humm noise.

If its on the gell stuff, and you have it on low, then its the best pump ive owned.


Oh the meanwell is adjustable so u can varies it from 19-26V well thats my meanwell's range.

---

There's plenty of room in the Silverstone TJ-10 so that should be ok. Thanks for the advice on the Gell:).

Do you have any pictures on the completed system?

Thanks:up:

I still don't get the point aboutr the heat dump. ssuming that you already have an uber water cooling system, which is a given since you are spending the money for an RD30, wouldn't the heat dump of the RD30 at whatever voltage be totally moot ? For example, if you have a 300 watt to 400 watt Thermochill and a 150 watt cpu, with a 50 watt pump heat dump, then where is the concern ?

FYI on the "MD" versions..

Here are the w (MD) curves:
http://www.iwakiamerica.com/nav/cm.aspx?cmid=187

They make three versions of each pump, a high pressure, standard, and low pressure version. The Z or high pressure is the version you want if you were to go with an MD pump.

The curves compare relatively closely to the 60HZ MD models. I have the 60Hz version in my latest estimator as well as the RD20, RD30 and RD30 at 18V.

I'd rather go with a RD series myself, but it's too bad you have to buy another PSU to run them.

Quote:

---

I'd rather go with a RD series myself, but it's too bad you have to buy another PSU to run them.

---

Yes it is:(

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Petra

I'm with MrToad on this one, you seem a little confused. The RD series pumps are Japanese made, high pressure, 24V DC pumps. You're thinking of the MD and WMD series pumps which are the Japanese and American motored, relatively low head pressure, 120V AC circulation pumps.

---

I'm well aware of Iwaki model numbers. That's why I'm trying to convince the OP to go with the MD20RZT...but I guess it's to late!

I just don't see the need for adding a 24v power supply that has to be connected to a wall outlet anyway. And a non-high pressure punp?????

Hmmm...I just superimposed the PQ curves...that's quite a pump!!!!
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/8...tvs30rdoo5.jpg

This should be impressive!!!!!! 3+ GPM!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by IanY

I still don't get the point aboutr the heat dump. ssuming that you already have an uber water cooling system, which is a given since you are spending the money for an RD30, wouldn't the heat dump of the RD30 at whatever voltage be totally moot ? For example, if you have a 300 watt to 400 watt Thermochill and a 150 watt cpu, with a 50 watt pump heat dump, then where is the concern ?

---

I can tell you from experience it DOES make a difference.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nikhsub1

I can tell you from experience it DOES make a difference.

---

Alright thanks, but I've lost most of my interest in the RD pumps.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nikhsub1

I can tell you from experience it DOES make a difference.

---

Anything, pump included, that transfers heat to the loop will cause the water temperature to be higher. Higher water temps means higher CPU (GPU, etc) temps and lower overclocks/benches.

It's not that a system that can put 150 watts into the water and it's WC setup remove 400 watts, It's all about water temps.

Without doing the calculations:
150 watts in, 400watts out = water at 5*C above ambient.
150 watts in + another 50 watts (from a bigger pump) = water at 10*c over ambient.
The system with the cooler water will run the CPU (GPU, etc) at a lower temperature, overclock, and bench higher.

Well I ordered one and the powersupply. If worse comes to worse, I'll use it as a modified paint gun blaster;) for the neighbours dog. I'll let you know the results once I've completed the assembly and looks like I'll stick with swiftech GTX and GPU cooler.

I'll try to fit a triple in the case but I'm not sure it will fit, otherwise I'll do the two duals for sure.

Thanks.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Think

There's plenty of room in the Silverstone TJ-10 so that should be ok. Thanks for the advice on the Gell:).

Do you have any pictures on the completed system?

Thanks:up:

---

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0721.jpg


With this setup i get these temps:

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...25GHZQ6600.jpg

Ambients in the 80-83F. When taken.


And i yes i see a difference in temps when i blast the thing on high. But i have it in my case where the fans from the rad are blowing the RD-30 shell cool.

The RD-30 shell is made of metal, and not plastic. The pump itself gets hot. So i dont think it would dump that much heat into the water when the exterior shell is getting hot itself. And if a PA120.3 cant handle an RD-30 + 1 chipset block + 1 overclocked quad. Then the watercooling industry is in serious problems.

Okay, here is the deal based on my 6 month + experience with a RD30 on three of the hottest chips on the market to date.

IE dual 8800GTS oced to 651 core, QX6700 @ 3.4GHz on 1.4V and the notorious HOT NB of the 680i chipset.

@ load on the QX6700 running BOINC 24/7 I get 50C+/- with dual MCW60s and a MCW30.

I use 3 120X38 SAN ACE/DENKIS @ 12V.

Over the three fans on a closed case YOU WILL NOT hear the RD30, running @ 18-20V the pump will NOT get "warm" if you ambient temps are decent, airflow in your case is decent.

All of this on a single T-Chill 120.3.

The RD has survived a power surge (MEANWELL took the hit instead) The pump when running @ 24 does get really warm to touch, HOWEVER you DON'T need to run it higher then 20V MAYBE. 18 should be more then enough.

now if you were running more then one RAD........this would more then likely change.

If you want a strong pump, that can handle just about any water loop a user could build, then its well worth the investment.

I was using a Cathar G5 before I got my Apogee GTX (bowed) and the only thing that changed other then temps by a few degrees, was the less restriction on the loop because of the change of block.

Here is my loop setup with said pump.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...7/PDR_0078.jpg

Phelan1777 and NaeKuh , where are your hard drives located?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Think

Phelan1777 and NaeKuh , where are your hard drives located?

---

This was before I mounted them.

I made my own mount, have to take pics.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by KaptCrunch

Phelan1777
the cpu hose's are reversed, input is the center while out is the ceiling

---

No they are not reversed, i turned the block.

Ports on the Apogee GTX are not in the center of the block, look up pics you will see it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Think

Phelan1777 and NaeKuh , where are your hard drives located?

---

Rear cage on my UFO.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0727.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0720.jpg


These are during build pics. I cleaned up the wire management tons. Also added metal worm clamps over the tygon 1/2 stretch.

But just a general idea of where my hd's are.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by KaptCrunch

heat rises so best have outflow on the highest point(closest to ceiling) like the chipset block
an from the cpu should go to the lower gpu

---

Heat may rise but these are Iwaki pumps we're talking about here. I don't think the water has a chance of working out which way up it is before it's round the loop and back where it started :D

HOLY THREAD RESSURECTION BATMAN. That aside.
Anyone got any internal shots of this pump?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Maxspam

HOLY THREAD RESSURECTION BATMAN. That aside.
Anyone got any internal shots of this pump?

---

OMG i replied to it...

i feel like a noob...

:rofl:

yeah didnt see the ressurect

How is bumping a thread from ages ago any different from creating a new thread with a similar topic?

Bumping a thread is bringing information already shared previously instead of others re-posting something that was already stated and usually someone is to lazy to search for.

Look through the thread and see what was already said, compare it with newer threads and see if there is consistent or differing information/knowledge share then and now.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Maxspam

How is bumping a thread from ages ago any different from creating a new thread with a similar topic?

---

good point.

however if the thread is more then 6 months old, and you have a completely new question, i feel you should make a new one and ask.

Old threads also contain old data, so its not always wise to go by very old threads. :up:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by phelan1777

Look through the thread and see what was already said, compare it with newer threads and see if there is consistent or differing information/knowledge share then and now.

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NaeKuh

good point.

however if the thread is more then 6 months old, and you have a completely new question, i feel you should make a new one and ask.

Old threads also contain old data, so its not always wise to go by very old threads. :up:

---

Not worded the same, but that was my intent.

reference the old material and see if there is a small/major change in opinions/thoughts from those that either posted said information or have posted differing results and somewhere in between lies the truth/fact.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by phelan1777

Not worded the same, but that was my intent.

reference the old material and see if there is a small/major change in opinions/thoughts from those that either posted said information or have posted differing results and somewhere in between lies the truth/fact.

---

your GF is brainwashing you phelan.

your starting to sound like her too. :rofl:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NaeKuh

your GF is brainwashing you phelan.

your starting to sound like her too. :rofl:

---

Eh maybe.........though, I have often been told that when I get on a roll, i should have been a Lawyer, with or with out her.

Law school would be way to boring for me and I am not ethical enough to be a Lawyer :P.

Quote:

---

Bumping a thread is bringing information already shared previously instead of others re-posting something that was already stated and usually someone is to lazy to search for.

Look through the thread and see what was already said, compare it with newer threads and see if there is consistent or differing information/knowledge share then and now.

---

Duly noted. However since the sin has already been committed hows about them internal shots.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Maxspam

Duly noted. However since the sin has already been committed hows about them internal shots.

---

I couild swear there were pics around here some where, if not I guess I could reach down to my right and pull one of the pumps out, get off my arse, find a digital cam 4 feet to my left, eventually dig up a screw driver 2feet to my right........endure the torture of un screwing the face place of the pump.

Forcibly moving the camera to about eye level, straining my finger to depress the shutter button a few times.

Grunting with the pain of fumbling with the cap covering the memory card, attempt to with draw the card, expend valuable energy placing the card into the correct slot if I can figure out which one that is.

With reluctance finding the right folder/file, begrudgingly upload it to something called foto buketz? Suffer the agony of having to type in a interwebz addrezzzzzz to stumble my way back here, just to share a linkage of to glorify a piece of metal and plastic :D

You dont HAVE to...
It was sort of a curiosity thing to find out what all the hype was about and to notice the differences between that and lets say mcp655.
Diddnt think this thread would get so much attention.

I know this is a thread ressurection and i think a 1st post so this will look really bad but i bought an Iwaki RD-30 and a Meanwell S-150-24,
I used the pot on the Meanwell to undervolt it as far as it can gobut on my voltmeter its saying 19.82V which as far as i know too high to create a good heat dump/flow rate ratio,
Is there any way i can get my MW down to 18V? I tried putting resistors in series with the pump but they fried even high wattage ones, is there any way to replace that pot for one that will allow me to get down to 18v? at the moment AFAIK it has a 1K pot, does anyone know what sort of wattage and rating pot to get to get it down further? a 2k one should do but its just the exact specs im worried about, i dont want too much heat generated over the pot either, rapid electronic should do what im looking for but i have no idea what im looking for wattage wise,
I know thats a lot of info but i really need your help guys, iv been building my Lian-Li PC-343 for 2 years now and have just hit one problem after another, ill post up pics soon if you like,
Any help is greatly appreciated :)
Thanks guys!

If you're willing to set the Meanwell aside, Alphacool has this available now:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27034

It allows you to set the voltage between 12V and 24V in 3V increments. Probably pretty handy for the RD-30. No idea about the quality of it though, so YMMV..

I do like that thing a lot...
It would be very handy though i doubt it has the capacity to run an RD-30, its a pretty high wattage piece of machinery, I like the fact i wouldnt need to also put an extra kettle plug into the back of my lian-li to get it to start up with the computer,
Does anyone know if this could run an RD-30 and not srew it over, i think youll understand my worry as its not a cheap pump
Thanks anyway man!

Dunno, but Alphacool sell it as a package with this pump and it states 17W

http://www.alphacool.com/shop/Pumps/...lts--3317.html


Don't know anything about the Iwaki's power draw, but maybe that will help you..

Found this graph:
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/img/IwakiRD30PQ-18v.png
So depending on the load its from ~25-38W

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Think

I believe that you do have a point with the heat dump problem but I think that if you can regulated the voltage, you can control the heat dump and hopefully the noise with not too much of a hit on pressure.

---

If you mount a 90mm fan at the back of the pump then heat dump goes down considerably. Also, the ac120 pumps are capable of much higher output than the 24vdc models. Like others have posted it depends on model numbers. My panworld/blueline does 480GPH @ 13.5'.

More here:
http://www.marinedepot.com/pumps_pan..._px_ps-ap.html

<shrug> Dunno then. All I can say is that PPCs does offer that Alphacool power supply with the RD-30 if you buy it as a package, so I assume they think it must be adequate to run the Iwaki, but I have no idea if that's true or not. Like I said, YMMV with this, but for only $30 it might be worth a shot..

Im not in a position to change pumps now, i spent £120 on this pump and theres no returning it now,
Well if they sell it with the RD-30 it must run it, ill see if i can get one here in the UK, its a pain ordering stuff from the US

EDIT:
While im at it, im deciding on a res, i have 1/2' ID tubing (Tygon) and i want to know whats the least restrictive res, i really want a tube one like the EK Res the V2 one but aparrently is a 1/4' bore in it but i guess with my pump i should have a for of restriction to make it run smoother?

EDIT #2:
Did more research and went for the EK Res, i dont really need to worry about flow rates with this pump, now just gotta figure out where to mount the damn thing and what PSU to use, if i can find that one in the UK ill buy it,
Pics to follow :)

There is another option for powering the Iwaki.

This should work the same. You can get it completely assembled through the drop down menu if your not that good or brave with electronics.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Waterlogged

There is another option for powering the Iwaki.

This should work the same. You can get it completely assembled through the drop down menu if your not that good or brave with electronics.

---

wont work WL.

3A max.

Its about as good for a DDC.

# Input: 3.5V - 40V DC
# Output: 65V DC, 3A
# Regulation range: 5V - 55V variable output

The RD-30 needs a min startup amperage higher then that.
Thats why there was a whole debate on if the S150-24 was even good enough for the pump.

Hey OP, Skinnee has my entire RD-30 package with a relay switch.
I even have a Slappy res for it, so you should ask him for pictures, or find it yourself.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NaeKuh

wont work WL.

3A max.

Its about as good for a DDC.

---

Then why the hell do they show it hooked up to an Iwaki in the pictures? :confused::mad:

Max Amp draw I measured on Naekuh's RD-30 (same one Martin tested) was 2.80A.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Waterlogged

Then why the hell do they show it hooked up to an Iwaki in the pictures? :confused::mad:

---

i have no idea.. ima have to tell hank about that later.

But i am 100% sure, that wont work for an RD-30.

Possible an RD-20, but definitely not a RD-30.

As i said, we got into a HUGH debate on that when the RD-30 was the Must have Rolls Royce pumps.
The debate was that a S150-24 wasnt enough and could cause start up damage.

If i recall you need about 10amps startup.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by skinnee

Max Amp draw I measured on Naekuh's RD-30 (same one Martin tested) was 2.80A.

---

Cam im talking about startup.
And dont tell me you dont remember this debate either.

Thats what i thought, plus it doesnt output at 18v which is what i really want, the easiest option is to mod the pot on my meanwell i think?
I dont have a problem with soldering or electronics iv wired and soldered the fan controller etc to suit my trigger switches, iv done a lot of fiddly stuff with IC 4026 counting chips for my technology course so this should be a breeze, anyone know of any good 40W pots that would suit the need, i guess i could use V=IR to work out what resistance i need too?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NaeKuh

i have no idea.. ima have to tell hank about that later.

But i am 100% sure, that wont work for an RD-30.

Possible an RD-20, but definitely not a RD-30.

As i said, we got into a HUGH debate on that when the RD-30 was the Must have Rolls Royce pumps.
The debate was that a S150-24 wasnt enough and could cause start up damage.

---

Hm, skinnee just confirmed it will work .:p: :hammer: :rofl:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mutant_Tractor

Thats what i thought, plus it doesnt output at 18v which is what i really want, the easiest option is to mod the pot on my meanwell i think?
I dont have a problem with soldering or electronics iv wired and soldered the fan controller etc to suit my trigger switches, iv done a lot of fiddly stuff with IC 4026 counting chips for my technology course so this should be a breeze, anyone know of any good 40W pots that would suit the need, i guess i could use V=IR to work out what resistance i need too?

---

If you look closely at the unit, it looks variable, even says so in the specs. ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Waterlogged

Hm, skinnee just confirmed it will work .:p: :hammer: :rofl:

If you look closely at the unit, it looks variable, even says so in the specs. ;)

---

*sigh*

WL... must i remind u on DC pumps, the startup voltage is always higher then operation voltage?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NaeKuh

*sigh*

WL... must i remind u on DC pumps, the startup voltage is always higher then operation voltage?

---

Well, I would suspect Hank would have tested this unit with the RD-30, otherwise he's making a pretty big error offering it as a bundle item. ;)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...c9236ec42e187c

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Waterlogged

Well, I would suspect Hank would have tested this unit with the RD-30, otherwise he's making a pretty big error offering it as a bundle item. ;)

---

no my friend james is spanking skinnee right now on ims.

LOL... so skinnee should come with a correction soon.

[10:43] James: the divverence is, powering a pump or other rotational unit with a power supply is hard on the mosfets generating the power
[10:44] James: sure, it may WORK but it will not last
[10:44] James: excuse my poor typing, i'm in a hurry and got an assload of things going on trying to tidy up work
[10:45] James: i'm actually explaining this very thing to a customer too
[10:45] James: lol
[10:45] James: they are trying to power a 2000HP slurry system with a 200HP controller......
[10:45] James: the problem is, the amp draw on start is well over 1000 amps

Shorten for the lecture he's giving us right now..

Shizbuckets... :shakes:

Yes, startup current draw will be higher. 2.8A is operating draw. The RD-30 lists 3.2A on the device tag.

If you're ordering international... get the sure bet.

So... It will work with the RD-30 :confused:

I mean its a lot for me to splash out if im buying from the US with shipping & import tax ill get hit with will be 100% of the item value all over again, learned that the hard way with a Mesa Boogie Dual Rectifier amp i bought 2 years ago,

Wont a £1-2 pot do the same job (such a cheapskate)

On a side note, i bought a swiftech apogee XT today im going to silicone mod it when it arrives, ill take some pics right now so you can have a look at my setup, at the mo my loop is:

Tygon tubing
PA 120.2
PA 120.3
Iwaki RD-30
Meanwell S-150-24 (maybe)
Swiftech Apogee XT
GPU blocks unknown (have to decide on GPUs although i have 3x8800 Ultras so i might go for them for sentimental value)
Haven't decided on a mobo yet i was looking at that monster EVGA 9 PCI XL-ATX board but i dont think it will even fit in my PC-343 :eek:
I have a i7-975 in my laptop so ill be stealing that and putting a 920 in there,
PSU wise i won an FSP Everest 1010 last year through Custom PC magazine so ill probably sell that and get an Enermax Revolution 1250W like my younger bro has...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mutant_Tractor

So... It will work with the RD-30 :confused:

---

Right now, it's kind of hard to say. I really doubt that Hank (owner of P-PC's) would have made that large of an error.:shrug:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Waterlogged

Right now, it's kind of hard to say. I really doubt that Hank (owner of P-PC's) would have made that large of an error.:shrug:

---

i had to ask hank to make a correction before.

Just WL, its not safe, and its not smart to do it on a 200 dollar pump.

I'm not saying anyone made an error... its one of those situations where its extremely close. Depends on whether you want guaranteed or you like to roll the dice.

Well with what i paid for this pump and how i had to get petras tech to specially order it in for me and taxes and stuff i really want to have the guarentee there,
What do you think skinnee?
Mod the MW (cheaper) or buy a dedicated 12v - 18v converter?

I'd contact Petra's or Meanwell direct to see if they can resolve the issue with your current PSU.

Thats the thing its aparrently rated to go from 20v-24v not 18 :P
So whatever i do can only improve it really...

Heres some shots:
I got the top panel laser etched with Mutant_Tractor^3 on it... cubed geddit? >.<
http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/5843/imag0008t.jpg
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/92/imag0007fn.jpg
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/6962/imag0013w.jpg
My Rads
http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/4973/imag0009r.jpg
Fan Controller i modded to work with my SPST switches
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/5478/imag0011x.jpg
My Control panel type thing, uses momentary swithces (in CF) for On button & Reset button, the Red ones work with the fan controller to turn on my fans, i have 5x red thermalrights for behind the grills pushing into the rads then the rest are scythe ultra kazes @ 3000RPM which are... loud :P
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/6489/imag0010l.jpg
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/4782/imag0012d.jpg
RD-30
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/599/imag0014xi.jpg

Umm resize?

The quality of the images isn't great either.:(

Ill resize em now, all taken with my phone so the quality isnt great tbh :/ **Pics Updated**

EDIT:
Is it possible to make this fit in my PC-343?
http://www.evga.com/products/moreInf...board%20Family

Ive used an MD-20 for 4 years now, and the noise to me isnt too bad. But I am also using 3 Delta fans pushing 150+ cfm ^_^

I have 2x Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000RPMs and then 3x Scythe 80mm Kaze as well as 5x Thermal(take/right) red LED fans pushing through the rads
Its loud to say the least

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gimmpy224

Ive used an MD-20 for 4 years now, and the noise to me isnt too bad. But I am also using 3 Delta fans pushing 150+ cfm ^_^

---

Talking about the RD-20, not the MD, two different pumps.


MD-20

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...1&d=1135020135



RD-20

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/5453/cooler4.jpg

RD-30 man :)
Thats an RD-30 in that pic anyway i think?
Im gonna run the RD-30 overnight with my MW at 19.82V just to see how it goes
Hopefully i wont have much to report

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mutant_Tractor

RD-30 man :)
Thats an RD-30 in that pic anyway i think?
Im gonna run the RD-30 overnight with my MW at 19.82V just to see how it goes
Hopefully i wont have much to report

---

RD-20 and the RD-30 look similiar

Mutant, nice choice of pumps :yepp:

btw, how are you connecting the PUMP INLET to the REZ?
if you're using the standard 1/2x3/4 tubing are you getting any cavitation?
... can we get a few pics of that?

Hi ballz,

My res has yet to arrive (ordered yesterday) i bought an EK Multioption 400mm one,
My plan is just to plug the inlet straight into the res, the bottom outlet on the res is the one i will be using and the pump will be mounted directly below it to allow gravity to do its work and in theory should stop cavitation problems,
Ill post them up once its arrived, i ordered 5L of distilled water to flush the system before putting my feser-one into it,
Im using 1/2ID tubing with an 1/8Wall through the whole system, no exceptions, i assume thats 1/2x3/4?
Also this is the motherboard im waiting for:
http://www.techreaction.net/2010/01/...d-270-gt-w555/
Anyone object to this?
It is XL-ATX so it may need case modding to get in which im not all that keen on but i do want true x16 x3 SLI via nf200 and the E759 was limited to 300 worldwide (which my brother nabbed off eBay before me >.>)
So i can either go with the W555 board or the 4xSLI Classified E762 both of which are XL-ATX and may require modding... heres me thinking the PC-343 will hold anything haha

sounds like a plan.
You'll havta drill out the ek-rez bottom then fit a grommet around that drilled hole for a direct fit onto the rd-30's inlet. (aka Ballz0r's method) PM me if you have questions.

Also, make sure all your connections from your tubing to barbs/compressions are solid. If properly fed, the rd-30 actually swells tygon 1/2x3/4 tubing. its kinda scary at first...:eek: then its a sight to see... :up:


im no help on the mobo choice, sry

Cheers man, pm'd ;)

I have 10x compressions and 4x barbed connections as backups i also got 20 jubilee clips incase :)
Is it safe to drill out the bottom of my res?
I dont wanna make a hames of it :P

Any advice from that mobo by anyone is greatly appreciated :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by phelan1777

Talking about the RD-20, not the MD, two different pumps.

---

This I am aware of, I figured as an Iwaki owner I would chime in saying how much I like them and that the sound isnt that bad on an MD, which was relevant because someone posted earlier saying the Jap motors were quieter. :slap:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mutant_Tractor

Is it safe to drill out the bottom of my res?
I dont wanna make a hames of it :P

---

as long as your comfortable enough that you wont put the drill thru part of your body, no, it will not catch fire or go boom

its made out of delrin, which is just a fancy word for...


many moons ago... thats right after start up, it was bubble free after about 15 minutes and a restart...
http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...y/IMG_0267.jpg

Does anyone know could an XL-ATX fit in my PC-343?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by phelan1777

Talking about the RD-20, not the MD, two different pumps.

---

Just to clarify, despite the MD looking tremendous, its likely much more compact than a RD-30 + meanwell due to running right off A/C current.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mutant_Tractor

Does anyone know could an XL-ATX fit in my PC-343?

---

No, it only has a regular 7 slot MB tray/back panel.

Per EVGA's FAQ answer about this, only the cases they list can fit the 4-way, plus additionally now, almost all of the MM cases have an option for a 10-slot MB tray that can fit the 4-way

Damn so im stuck with E-ATX meaning i have to get an E760 single CPU board and without a nf200 chip so no x16 tri-SLI when its fully utilised by the GPUs,
No W555 dual CPU either :(
Although, it might be possible to mod it...., lift the mobo tray up a bit, aghh i dont want to have to buy a whole new case, i was looking at MM in the first place i should have just bought one :/

So I bought an E760 and an EK X58 full cover block,

I saw these things on koolance website and they look really handy:
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=787
http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=786

Has anyone had any experience with these things, Any restriction problems?
My EK res, fluid, cpu block and compression fittings arrived... i love packages ^^,