Xtreme External Cooler

Hi guys I think I finally built a LC set up worthy of posting here:p:

Spec:
Iwaki RD 30
Mean Well S150-24
ThermoChill PA 120.3 dual shroud 6 Panaflo 86.5 CFM
Bonneville Heatercore and two POS fans

I am still working on the thermal controls for the fans (25W rheostat for now) and will rework the Bonnie with a shroud and some better fans in a bit...still in progress...

Plan to use a manifold and split the loop into three in and three out to make plumbing Case-Side easier.

Appreciate any input:up:

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/856/1203119yn6.jpg
NO LEAKS!

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/2028/1203120ox9.jpg
Even the G 1/4 O-Ring barbs get the treatment

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/221/1203121mm7.jpg
Rad assembly comes out easily for service...it is suspended in the frame from well nuts. I plane to replace the crap poly fitings the rad ships with and use real ones...I wish ThermoChill would just charge the extra $10 and ship real fittings.

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/4443/1203122ex3.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/3/1203123ov2.jpg
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/5214/1203126gg6.jpg
NO LEAKS! And no Elbows or restricitons either :)

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/4062/1203127rh0.jpg
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/8318/1203129ng6.jpg
Plumbed

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/8204/1203130uw1.jpg
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/1347/1203132zw5.jpg
The suspension system keeps the rad from moving very much but isolates any vibration.

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/7325/1203133eo1.jpg
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/2626/1203134ub6.jpg
The lower compartment is laid out to allow good airflow... the Bonnie is underslung and supported on foam strips in aluminumn angle--the fans push air out so dust should not be that big an issue. I will be fabricating a proper shroud for the heatercore in a bit.

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/1183/1203136ji4.jpg
The reservoir comes off and allows for service of the fans/Filters...

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/4048/1203137ff2.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/500/1203138wp8.jpg
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/7550/1203139px8.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/548/1203140yp3.jpg
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/8485/1203142nq5.jpg
The size of the cordless drill might put this beast into perspective...

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/8870/1203141uk4.jpgTHe
The rear still needs the backplane--but I am waiting until I work out the disconnects and wiring before I do that.

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/10/1203143um2.jpg
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/9325/1203145ip6.jpg
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/4577/1203146zu1.jpg
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/5134/1203147rz6.jpg
Detail shots of how I mounted the Bonnie.

http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/2496/1203148il0.jpg
Here you can see how I isolated the pump while still securing it firmly to the chassis.

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/7637/1203149sz7.jpg
First case I ever felt the need to put wheels on...:rolleyes:

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/921/1203150fv7.jpg
The undercarriage details.The bottom will be lined with Sonex.

http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/8683/1203152kz2.jpg
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/8867/1203153lx8.jpg
It's all business in there.

http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/1658/1203155eg5.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/2707/1203156me5.jpg
Another look at how the rad assembly mounts. The well nuts assure no metal to metal contact.

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/8136/1203157kr3.jpg
Reservoir--this res will be like a geyser once the Iwaki get's running :D And it is above the 30CM spec called for on elevation. I may fab a 36 CM cylinder res just for fun...

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/2561/1203158og3.jpg
The acrylic is fun to look at--but soon will be lined with White 1" Sonex.

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/2778/1203160qe0.jpg
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/4208/1203161vb5.jpg
What a crazy thing to build hunh?

Loops goes like this inlet>reservoir>pump>bonnie>PA130.3>outlet

Work to do: Backplane, Electrical, Manifold, Lines to PC(s)/\

Question: what would be the best way to put a load on this beast? I was thinking maybe some pelt blocks just to generate a constant load--but I am a but foggy on how to figure the exact wattage of heat...

that looks kick ass! good job!

Holy ShiZZLe!

I am loving it! At first as I was reading the title I keyed in on External Unit... then as I am watching the build progress I thought it was in a PC Tower then , I see towards 3 qtrs of it that it is actually a stand alone unit!

Mad Skillz! I love the whole freaking thing! 2 shrouds Push Pull - NICE! Thermochill & RD30 No expense spared! :)

Great and keep us posted! (I'm jealous) :-/

CD:
May I ask why you are combining both a bonnie AND a pa120.3? Is it to eliminate the heat from the Iwaki, so that the PA can just kill the heat dump from your components?

Why did you choose the bonnie anyways? I'm not trying to be critical at all, I'm just seriously curious on the design rationale you have for this.

I will say that your fab skills are quite good, and the system looks to be absolutely killer.
Good luck, and I look forward to hearing your comments on this!
-Ghent

Now that is sexy! I want one! Looking good.

I'm also curious about the bonnie.... Would even an MCR320 work better than a bonnie? Just wondering....

why not just drop in a phase change unit if you are gonna go thru all that work? it looks great but the performance should match the work u put into it. You went way beyond to just maintain ambient temps. There is a point when you go to the next level. I think you have reached it bud. Time for you to head over to the Vapor Phase Change forum and get to the next level.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CyberDruid

Question: what would be the best way to put a load on this beast? I was thinking maybe some pelt blocks just to generate a constant load--but I am a but foggy on how to figure the exact wattage of heat...

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Hmmm. I'm not sure what you mean with "put a load"...

Do you mean to have some load on the PSU to stabilize the 12V rails?

If that's the case, you can use one of these (attached to a heatsink):

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/Passive+Co...sp?sku=1174281

Edit: Forgot you use a RD-30, which runs @18V. Somehow I don't think we are talking about the same thing...

I think he means to put a HEAT load on the system, so as to figure out the exact heat removal abilities of the system.

I have an idea on how to calculate that, but it's probably WAY too complicated (the nerd in me making it too hard). As such, lemme kick it around a bit and see what I can come up with as a better solution.
-Ghent

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CyberDruid

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/2028/1203120ox9.jpg
Even the G 1/4 O-Ring barbs get the treatment

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I certainly hope there is nothing in that thread sealant that eats O-Rings! It's also a waste of some perfectly good thread sealant.:shakes:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CyberDruid

..And no Elbows....

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In a case that size, I'm sorry but that's no great feat. I could use my quick fit's with 12mmx10mm nylon tubing and not need any elbows in that enclosure. Now, if it had been the size of SG03 or Microfly, then I would be really impressed.

Other than those little things, looks good.:yepp:

Hmmm let me formulate a proper reply here...

It's funny you should blame the O-Rings not being "captive" because I have plenty of 3/8" I.D. tube barbs here from DD to do a loop that I use for my testing and not a single one has ever leaked. I've used them on several different BI's, an Alphacool top, Csp-Mags, and I've milled the captive grooves off all my old Apogee's. If you know what your doing, you won't have problems. The trick to sealing O-Rings properly is to tighten them with your fingers until the O-Ring provides very light resistance, then use a wrench and add 1/2 turn at most. Another trick is to not set your loop up where the tubing puts a torsional twist on the fittings. Do those 2 things, and a O-Ring will never leak on you.;)

Thanks for all the interest guys!

Why the Bonnie? Well....it's not like I don't have plenty of other choices...I have two BIP 240 and 3 Xflow 240 and 3 PA160 laying around...

Partly because the Bonnie is low restriction and a good form factor for the app at hand. Partly because it has been sitting in a tote for about 3 months doing nothing and I thought it would be interesting to test. And partly to take out the heat dump from the Iwaki and give a bit more headroom. Once the side panels are on you will never see it...so why waste a tasty looking rad that could go in someone's rig?

RE "go phase"/"costs not equal to results"/POV...thanks I already have phase (a Chilly1 :)) and regarding your opinion...well I just don't agree and really did not build this to meet anyone's budgetary expectations. I have no interest in building phase units...subambient temops are great fun and I play there too...but this is something different:yepp: perhaps you might consider how nice this would be for Pelt loops...

RE wasting sealant on O-ring fittings:rofl: ...The particular reservoir I chose does not have a land or detent to trap the O-ring and keep it from slipping off the tiny land on the barbed fitting. It makes it impossible to properly tension the fittings--a slight twist of the line could either overtighten and make a leak or undertighten and make a leak. Although the probabilty for twistng is about zero (considering how hard it was to get that tubing over the Iwaki:shocked: ) I am paranoid of leaks. No the sealant does not effect the nitrile.

TheO-ring seat issue is both a defect in the reservoir design and a defect in the barb design. I could change those out and use poly NPT fittings...but I don't like them either and they could stress the acrylic if overtight. The solution: fab my own cylinder res with a proper base milled with a landing/detent to receive the O-ring barbed fittings. For test purposes though I think it will suffice.

RE case size/no elbows no challenge...yeah no kidding.:rolleyes:it's HUGE. I have been into LCing small cases for a while..I love a challenge...I built this humongous rig just to break out of the habit I have been in of jamming 25# of stuff in a 5# bag lol...but guess what: it's starting to fill up:p:

RE load. Yes I mean applying a dummy load to the loop so that I can gauge how many watts this rig will shift. Any help with this would be great.

Thanks again for checking out this project! I value everyone's advice.

It is still underway and I will be altering/improving/complicating it as I go along. The final outcome will likely not resemble this hastily constructed (pop rivets:shakes: )aluminum/acrylic structure at all.

In the end I hope to have an easily reproducable "product" in a proper powdercoated steel enclosure. This is really a "mock up" toward that end to see if my ideas about sound dampening/compartments/baffles (yet to come :)) and thermal control circuits for the fans and play out in "real world" tests.

Ideally the unit should be about silent and fairly remote from the PC(s) it cools. This would allow for a more pleasant computing environment as I have become extremely intolerant of fan noise/compressor noise but still want Xtreme performance :D

More in a while :up:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

It's funny you should blame the O-Rings not being "captive" because I have plenty of 3/8" I.D. tube barbs here from DD to do a loop that I use for my testing and not a single one has ever leaked. I've used them on several different BI's, an Alphacool top, Csp-Mags, and I've milled the captive grooves off all my old Apogee's. If you know what your doing, you won't have problems. The trick to sealing O-Rings properly is to tighten them with your fingers until the O-Ring provides very light resistance, then use a wrench and add 1/2 turn at most. Another trick is to not set your loop up where the tubing puts a torsional twist on the fittings. Do those 2 things, and a O-Ring will never leak on you.;)

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Ahh the advice is so much better with a little sarcasm...

How long have you been cooling with liquid? And never had a leak from an O ring:rolleyes:
Ooooookay..you must really know what you are doing then...lol.

FYI I fab in acrylic for a living and making a res is no biggy--I have all the tooling and equipment to make one from scratch..this PPC res is too thin a material to safely make the detent and still have sufficient threading. It was handy though...so I used it.

Appreciate the tips...but the attitude:confused: I dunno about that.

If your entire point of concern is A: I wasted sealant B: I don't know wth I am doing you need not worry...

FYI, I've been using water since '03, so I'm no slouch either.

I love the layout of that enclosure.


Only thing that I would change is the plastic barbs. Ive already had 1 crack in the past and that was enough to make me switch to all metal.


Ignore the haters, if you want to use thread sealant on your o-ring barbs then go for it, I still use thread tape on all mine. You never know, and personally I would rather be safe than sorry.

Really nice build, i hope one day to make something of my own.
What are te costs if the external case without the watercooling parts when its finished?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jimmer411

I love the layout of that enclosure.


Only thing that I would change is the plastic barbs. Ive already had 1 crack in the past and that was enough to make me switch to all metal.


Ignore the haters, if you want to use thread sealant on your o-ring barbs then go for it, I still use thread tape on all mine. You never know, and personally I would rather be safe than sorry.

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I have had my share of trouble with plastic and I could not agree more. It's a shame that Thermochill ships with 3/8 NPT poly when by all rights should ship with wide flange 3/8 BPSS O-Ring fittings. I guess TC figures if somebody knows what they are doing they will already have the right ones in their bin ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ownage

Really nice build, i hope one day to make something of my own.
What are te costs if the external case without the watercooling parts when its finished?

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OMG don't make me think too hard about that...lol I am about 1/3rd of the way done.

I do not know what the enclosure will cost--the final units will be sheet metal lined in Sonex...simple stuff and far less expensive than this prototype.

Pricing the parts...hmmm...well there are quite a few parts still to go.

I will put together some links to the products I used so far.:up:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CyberDruid

I have had my share of trouble with plastic and I could not agree more. It's a shame that Thermochill ships with 3/8 NPT poly when by all rights should ship with wide flange 3/8 BPSS O-Ring fittings. I guess TC figures if somebody knows what they are doing they will already have the right ones in their bin ;)

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AFAIK TC ships the rads with no barbs whatsoever (unless they've changed their policy in the last month). They leave the choice open for the end user.

In your case your supplier (who hasn't done his/her homework if the barbs were NPT, as everyone and the cat knows TC uses BSPP) must have "bundled" those barbs.

Honestly, I didn't post in this topic to get into a p:banana::banana::banana:ing match, but rather to voice a concern and have a good natured jab at "no elbows", considering the size of the case.


You guys could abandon using DD/EK barbs you know. There's always D-Tek barbs that lets you crank down to your hearts content.

Thermochill's North American distributor bundles the poly barbs with all T.Chill radiators that they sell b/c G3/8 barbs are not readily available in North America, and 3/8NPT will do in a pinch.

The AquaXtreme G3/8 barbs are readily available in NA.
Why DD doesn't just buy barbs from Thermochill along with the rads is anybody's guess. Guess they want to unload their plastic things instead.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

Honestly, I didn't post in this topic to get into a p:banana::banana::banana:ing match, but rather to voice a concern and have a good natured jab at "no elbows", considering the size of the case.


You guys could abandon using DD/EK barbs you know. There's always D-Tek barbs that lets you crank down to your hearts content.

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for the same reasons I use paste on the1/4 D-tek fittings on the res I would not be happy with the D-tek 3/8 fittings--the nut is the only "flange" to seat the O-ring and is too narrow--without a land in a properly deep detent that style of barb is unsuited to the application.

Since you have been LCing for 4 years I am sure you are familiar with the wide flange poly BPSS fittings that shipped with the Storm Rev 1.

IMO those type of barbs with a fat high Durometer O-Ring would be ideal. However I have yet to find these available anywhere. The only ones I have are on my Storm Waterblocks...

Those barbs you linked will work fine in a properly detented land--but on the Thermochill there is nothing like that to keep the ring from popping out from under the barbed fitting when tightened. Sorry finger tight and a half turn more is NOT good enough for me. A friction fit is required..one that will resist vibration, handling, shipping, reworking lines, all without a leak.EDIT: The more I think about the more paranoid I am of leaks from that PPC res. ..I will have to make one now. End EDIT.
I have had good results with brass 3/8 NPT though.

And despite the size of the case there are many improved locations available to me for mounting the elements IF I were to use elbows...It may be a large case topside but there is still a fair amount of gear below decks...the decision to eschew elbows set the course for a variety of choices...like mounting the pump vertical despite the Iwaki PDF stating DO NOT mount pump vertical :D

:up:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jedda

The AquaXtreme G3/8 barbs are readily available in NA.
Why DD doesn't just buy barbs from Thermochill along with the rads is anybody's guess. Guess they want to unload their plastic things instead.

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I need to get some of those. They have the proper width of flange.

Nice build, hopefully you keep it in the garage or outside so you don't offload the heat in the room.

The unit is still big enough to add a compressor chiller.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CyberDruid

I need to get some of those. They have the proper width of flange.

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NPSM seals between a groove in the female thread (the block) and a flange on the male thread.

BSPP with O-ring (Gx/x") has a groove on the nut of the male fitting to hold the O-ring in place and seals against a flat surface on the female thread.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CyberDruid

the wide flange poly BPSS fittings that shipped with the Storm Rev 1

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The threads in the Storm, as well as the MCW30, MCW60 and so on are 1/4" NPSM, hence he "wide flange".

And FYI, BPSS is many things, but none of them directly related to plumbing. However, BSPP is British Standard Pipe Parallel, (short form: BSP, as if it's not tapered, or BSPT, then it must be parallel).

Now that I've let some steam out, back to my personal war of attrition with the rodents...

CD:
Now, I'm going to go into my old chemistry/thermodynamics here (and it's been a bloody while). If I'm off on some/any/all of these equations, please, correct me, don't flame me.

Anyways, first find out the total loop volume in mL. Then, add a heat source. ANYthing will work. Measure the temp of the water as it enters, and then as it leaves.

Now then, with that, you can calculate the heat loss of the water. The specific heat of water is 4.18 joules per grams degree celcius (j/gC). (note: 1g of water=1mL of water).
When you figure the joules of heat changed by the system you can convert joules to watts. Joules=Watts*seconds. Use a 1 second time, and there ya go.

Now then, please excuse me while I go find my kevlar flame suit (I probably got something wrong)...
-Ghent

very cool

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrToad

NPSM seals between a groove in the female thread (the block) and a flange on the male thread.

BSPP with O-ring (Gx/x") has a groove on the nut of the male fitting to hold the O-ring in place and seals against a flat surface on the female thread.



The threads in the Storm, as well as the MCW30, MCW60 and so on are 1/4" NPSM, hence he "wide flange".

And FYI, BPSS is many things, but none of them directly related to plumbing. However, BSPP is British Standard Pipe Parallel, (short form: BSP, as if it's not tapered, or BSPT, then it must be parallel).

Now that I've let some steam out, back to my personal war of attrition with the rodents...

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I am terrible with acronyms (chronic metathisis). I know it stands for British Standard Pipe Parallel though...:)

If there were a slight bevel before the female threads I could see the DD fittings working better.

I was refering only to the type of fitting used on the Storm not the size...My Storm shipped with 3/8 and 1/2 barbed 1/4 BSPP and I still wonder why something in that same style but in 3/8 is so hard to find...

Thanks again guys! I should be making some headway with the backplane this week. The steel enclosure for this prototype is in the works as I post.

Rodents? Nothing some LN2 can't fix...:p:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ghent915

CD:
Now, I'm going to go into my old chemistry/thermodynamics here (and it's been a bloody while). If I'm off on some/any/all of these equations, please, correct me, don't flame me.

Anyways, first find out the total loop volume in mL. Then, add a heat source. ANYthing will work. Measure the temp of the water as it enters, and then as it leaves.

Now then, with that, you can calculate the heat loss of the water. The specific heat of water is 4.18 joules per grams degree celcius (j/gC). (note: 1g of water=1mL of water).
When you figure the joules of heat changed by the system you can convert joules to watts. Joules=Watts*seconds. Use a 1 second time, and there ya go.

Now then, please excuse me while I go find my kevlar flame suit (I probably got something wrong)...
-Ghent

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LOL no fire from me...I am here to learn and burn...

Thanks that makes perfect sense to me.

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Originally Posted by safan80

very cool

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I sure hope:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KaptCrunch

Nice build CD, going with parrelle, you need to MATCH each WB FLOW RATE.
them crimp clamps your using need be close to the hex side of barb.

wow where you get big the res from, note don't open cap when running awiki

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Point noted: I will inspect my tubing connections prior to a run in. I agree. RE res OH YES even with the MCP 655 this res can be very entertaining to bleed :p

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CyberDruid

My Storm shipped with 3/8 and 1/2 barbed 1/4 BSPP

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Must be a special limited edition if you got 3/8" x G1/4 and 1/2" x G1/4 barbs with it.

Storm product sheet. Search for "thread" on it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CyberDruid

Rodents? Nothing some LN2 can't fix...:p:

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My partner would feed my genitalia to the dog if I'd do that. I actually trap them and then release them in a corn field 3 miles from my house.

That's why is a war of attrition rather than a quick and bloody confrontation.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrToad

Must be a special limited edition if you got 3/8" x G1/4 and 1/2" x G1/4 barbs with it.

Storm product sheet. Search for "thread" on it.



My partner would feed my genitalia to the dog if I'd do that. I actually trap them and then release them in a corn field 3 miles from my house.

That's why is a war of attrition rather than a quick and bloody confrontation.

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I got the Storm right after Cathar first gave Ben the rights to produce it. I had been lurking about following the progress and really wanted the SS G-5. I preorderd a prodcution Storm and waited for Swifty to release--then got an email from Swifty that it would be faster for me to buy it from their resellers as they would be getting the first batch--so I got my REV1 from FrozenCPU.

It shipped with barbs for 3/8" and 1/2" ID tubing. I still have them...

And I bought another Rev1 Storm, used, about a year ago and it too came with both sizes...:shrug:

I am still waiting for Stew to send me word on the availability of the sterling silver G-5...it's only been several years...I'll give him another year and then I'm giving up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CyberDruid

I got the Storm right after Cathar first gave Ben the rights to produce it. I had been lurking about following the progress and really wanted the SS G-5. I preorderd a prodcution Storm and waited for Swifty to release--then got an email from Swifty that it would be faster for me to buy it from their resellers as they would be getting the first batch--so I got my REV1 from FrozenCPU.

It shipped with barbs for 3/8" and 1/2" ID tubing. I still have them...

And I bought another Rev1 Storm, used, about a year ago and it too came with both sizes...:shrug:

I am still waiting for Stew to send me word on the availability of the sterling silver G-5...it's only been several years...I'll give him another year and then I'm giving up.

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:brick: :brick: :brick: :wierd:

It's not the hose ID of the barbs what puzzles me. It's the thread type. Swifty has been using NPSM for ages. Only in their new range of products (Apogee GTX / Stealth) they've moved to BSPP.

If you own a Storm Rev1 with BSPP female threads, you have on your hands a collector's item ^^

Anyway, I had enough frustration and anal retention for a day. I rest my case.

The D-Tek fittings I linked to are very different from DD (and from the images I have access to) the one from EK. The O-Ring actually sits up in a groove about half way up in the nut, so there's no way it can squish out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrToad

It's not the hose ID of the barbs what puzzles me. It's the thread type. Swifty has been using NPSM for ages. Only in their new range of products (Apogee GTX / Stealth) they've moved to BSPP.

If you own a Storm Rev1 with BSPP female threads, you have on your hands a collector's item ^^

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+1

Sorry I missed that detail on the barb you linked Waterlogged. I will look closer. Better yet I will just buy some and see if they actually work.

To satisfy MrToad I will dig through my bin and photograph the part that is
such a bone of contention. I could be wrong--I have Apogees in there too...

I can see that unless I use the proper acronyms and can identify my fittings without error I will get no sleep :rolleyes:

This is XS right? not BS--XS...just checking...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrToad

:brick: :brick: :brick: :wierd:

It's not the hose ID of the barbs what puzzles me. It's the thread type. Swifty has been using NPSM for ages. Only in their new range of products (Apogee GTX / Stealth) they've moved to BSPP.

If you own a Storm Rev1 with BSPP female threads, you have on your hands a collector's item ^^

Anyway, I had enough frustration and anal retention for a day. I rest my case.

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What case? the case of mistaken identity? I stand corrected. I made an assumption that because g 1/4 fits in the Storm they were indeed BSPP...but as the documentation you linked shows they are not. I still would like to find these fittings. I have taps for BSPP and NPS 1/4 for my acrylic work.

Accoprding McMaster-Carr

Quote:

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BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel)
BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper)
NC (National Coarse)
NEF (National Extra Fine)
NF (National Fine)
NPS (National Pipe Straight)
NPSF (National Pipe Straight Dryseal)
NPT (National Pipe Taper)
NPTF (National Pipe Taper Dryseal)
NS (National Special)
N/UN (Unified Inch Screw Thread)

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That's the nomenclature for pipe threads I know. This is the first time I heard of NPSM. What does the M stand for?

Anyway I was bored and restless so...

Here ya go--I even took them apart to see what they are. The used Storm also came with some after market barbs that are different than the DD type.

http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/1879/strom001nf3.jpg
http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/2221/strom002qz8.jpg
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/15/strom003tq3.jpg
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/9537/strom004ue2.jpg
http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/8686/strom005lg1.jpg
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/9756/strom006jm3.jpg
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/2921/strom007vp2.jpg
http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/3771/strom008fo2.jpg
http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/9951/strom009fq9.jpg
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/488/strom010ic1.jpg

I realize it is simply the nomenclature that is dividing our POV. 18 tpi versus 19 tpi being the main diff in the the two styles. These are indeed as you say and I appreciate the upgrade to my plumbing lore :up:

I have a pretty large collection of top end gear... something like a dozen or more blocks. And I am just as fanatical about this as you:)

Hey CyberDruid, one question about the pump orientation for you. I wanted to attach my Iwaki MD-20 vertically but read in the manual that it was supposed to be placed horizontally, so that's what I did. I see that you have placed your Iwaki vertically, what's your opinion on this so far, have you run into any problems? Or haven't you filled the system up yet?

Anyway, looks like youre taking watercooling to the extreme. Good job!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by v0dka

Hey CyberDruid, one question about the pump orientation for you. I wanted to attach my Iwaki MD-20 vertically but read in the manual that it was supposed to be placed horizontally, so that's what I did. I see that you have placed your Iwaki vertically, what's your opinion on this so far, have you run into any problems? Or haven't you filled the system up yet?

Anyway, looks like youre taking watercooling to the extreme. Good job!

---

Yep I read that thread too and also have read the pdf from Iwaki on it.

I have yet to run the pump. THe reasoning in the thread boiled down to air bubbles if the inlet was facing to earth. SO if that speculation is correct then NP.

However I do know that some motors are not designed to run vertically as this may create wear on a thrust washer or other bearing. That is a legitimate concern. I studied what little I could dig up on the pump and have not been able to find anything useful.

If anyone knows about this spread the word.

I am going to run it this way and see what happens...it's all I can think to do.

Without using elbows or really reworking the whole layout from scratch I can't see how I would be able to do it horizontally.

To run horizontal I would have to discard my compartmental design and run the pump topside beside the rad.I was hoping to minimize the noise and heat of the pump by running it in a seperate Sonex lined chamber.

TBH I wish there was a conclusive word on that so I could know whether to scrap the project and start over or just go for it...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CyberDruid

I have 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 on the Storm as you can see these are Wide flange BSPP. The O-ring is held captive in the detent which should be clear from the pictures. There is no groove in the fitting itself.I would take a shot of my original Storm--but it is in the Bedroom and the wife is sleeping. You are welcome to post shots of the Storm you are talking about or the fitting...perhaps we are simply using different words to describe the same thing :thumb:

---

I don't have pics of the Storm. Unfortunately I've never owned a storm.

However, I have a Apogee GT (cooling my CPU as we speak, so I'm not really keen on taking it apart :P: ), and a MCW60 doing exactly the same in my 8800 GTX. Both use the same thread as the Storm and came with the same barbs you show in your pictures.

Because the difference between NPSM and BSPP is just the thread count per inch (19 on BSPP, 18 on NPSN), they may "look" the same, but they area not. I will refrain myself from commenting on the "wide flange BSPP" issue, because with so many manufacturers out there, perhaps such thing exists.

Both were a bit hit and miss regarding which model of G/14" barb would fit on them. I could have saved myself the trouble by using the forum's search function, as there are like 1000 threads discussing this same subject since I joined the forums (there's one going on right now, and I have the feeling there were threads about it long before I joined XS).

Besides, thre's the product sheet in Swiftech, where clearly states in black and white (do a search for the term "thread" in the document) and the sticky in this same forum (look at the very first entry of the list).

However, this little conundrum, sparked by your comment about threads, flanges and sealing way back on the thread, is beyond the point. The point being your external watercooler. So this will be my last post on the matter. You've provided the pictures, I've provided the links, IMHO there's enough documentation on the subject already to draw a conclusion.

Now let's focus on what really matters, which is the "Xtreme External Cooler"

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CyberDruid

I have a pretty large collection of top end gear... something like a dozen or more blocks. And I am just as fanatical about this as you:)

:lsfight:

---

You certainly do have a collection ^^. I only have barbs, fittings and components ordered by mistake or without properly documenting myself first (can you hear SFF800 somewhere?).

And yes, unfortunately I was born anally retentive :D

Lol

I am not really a plumber...and have much to learn.

Lookin' awesome so far :eek: Can't wait to see this project completed :up:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CyberDruid

Yep I read that thread too and also have read the pdf from Iwaki on it.

I have yet to run the pump. THe reasoning in the thread boiled down to air bubbles if the inlet was facing to earth. SO if that speculation is correct then NP.

However I do know that some motors are not designed to run vertically as this may create wear on a thrust washer or other bearing. That is a legitimate concern. I studied what little I could dig up on the pump and have not been able to find anything useful.

If anyone knows about this spread the word.

I am going to run it this way and see what happens...it's all I can think to do.

Without using elbows or really reworking the whole layout from scratch I can't see how I would be able to do it horizontally.

To run horizontal I would have to discard my compartmental design and run the pump topside beside the rad.I was hoping to minimize the noise and heat of the pump by running it in a seperate Sonex lined chamber.

TBH I wish there was a conclusive word on that so I could know whether to scrap the project and start over or just go for it...

---

I think we should just ask Iwaki, they should know if it is a technical problem with the motor or just a minor issue in regards to airbubbles.

Nice build as always!:up:

One thing I've started using for thread sealant I think works even better is a product called "Yamabond", it's a flexible gasket sealant type material meant for putting motorcycle engine cases back to gether. I like it best because it has a strong and sticky type consistency that bonds very well yet it's not so strong that it's permanent.

You can pick it up at most motorcycle type parts stores...I really like it and it's designed to be resistant to all sorts of engine heat and chemicals so it should be more than up to the job.

I like the aluminim angle framework, I've been thinking of different ideas on possibly building myself a stand alone cooler as well. Thanks!:up:

Thanks Martin. Ira-K over at OCN likes RTV sealant and I picked up some of that--which would be great as long as it does not get twisted hard enough to break the seal. I will check it out.

Here is some info that might explain a bit about the heatercore flow characteristics.

The prototype is complete. I left the IwakiRD30 in a vertical position. On the next build I will engineer it to mount horizontal. For the limited amount of time it will be run in the prototype I am not concerned.

Here's the metering manifold I built to attach to the cooler. I considered using a prebuilt manifold and I considered using special disconnects and decided to just use what was locally available at this point.

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/232/test004hy2.jpg
It's as low a restriction and as inexpensive a metering device as I could concoct. The 1/2 acrylic enclosure makes it sit upright.

I ran in the rig right away using 3 Storm Waterblocks and then fabricated a simple backplane/control panel.

http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/7259/clean101lz5.jpg
http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/7259/clean101lz5.jpg
http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/4787/done006dn5.jpg
The 110VAC is split to two fuses (7A slow blow and 3A slow blow) and then to two water-shielded toggles that send it along to a 100 watt 12VDC PSU and 150 Watt 24VDC PSU. A pair of safety switches interrupt the 24VDC and the 12VDC. A large Ohmite 25W 2A rated Rhesostat controls the 6 Panaflo on the PA 120.3, a smaller 5W rheostat controls the 2 POS fans on the Bonnie Heatercore. The Enlobal intake for the lower compartment runs on full.

I then lined the enclosure with 1" Sonex and reapplied the one removable side panel with industrial velcro. For all intents and purposes the cooler is ready for load testing.

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/2163/done014sk0.jpg
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/1553/done022vk9.jpg
http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/964/done023fx3.jpg
http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/4691/done025zm9.jpg
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/1015/done026qh0.jpg
http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/5983/done027ge2.jpg
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/4766/done028ec8.jpg
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/805/done029wz4.jpg
http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/5969/done030cu1.jpg
http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/4043/done032yl0.jpg
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/2116/done033fp9.jpg
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/7789/done037zu8.jpg
:)

Load test to follow.

looking good!

I need some more rigs though! I don't want to tear into any of my babies...

So I think I will have to do a little shopping...a waterblock for the HD 2900XT would be an easy way to check this monster out on the Abit AA8XE on the tech station, the 550 ES on there puts out a fair amount of heat...

I Bow down....... OMG

This whole thing is so freaking Incredible! I dunno what I would do with it....but damn I want one! :)

Great Job! I am speechless!

lol

Well the proof will be how well it cools...I have a litle Folding Farm of indivdually cooled rigs and I was thinking to consolidate and reduce the overall hum...

Awesome,

You have gone through a crazy amount of work, Looks sick.

Just a thought, A new small AC unit sells normally here for less than $100.00 Bucks........ Hmmmmm.

Great man.... wonder... it's as you say extreme external cooler!!! :) really nice...

Damn that thing is huge but awesome, can't wait to see the temps

When I saw this beautiful sight I said "pheeew!" "HOLY :banana::banana::banana::banana:"

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/221/1203121mm7.jpg

You would do good to use a thermoelectric Peltier unit or two, some coldplates and a MeanWell PSU is all you need ;)

Thinking about setting up a 24VDC out for just that. I am very curious how much load this rig will shift.

Well I have gotten a good ways along with the Xtreme Cooler now...I am currently cooling two B3 Q6600 (one clocked to 3200 one stock) and an E2180 (at 3333) and am seeing about 20-25C above ambient. I have only just gotten a grip on the Iron Blood and will soon be swapping the E2180 with another Q6600 to prove that the cooling rig will easily cool 3 overclocked Quads.

May main rig is in a really nice case that I did not want to mod--so the external cooler is offering a lot of flexibility there. The only thing that is cumbersome is not having proper self sealing quick connects--but they are too restrictive for this app--so I just pinch off the lines when altering the loop.

It's turned the media room into a real mad scientest lab for the time being...

The metering manifold I came up with is extremely useful--I can visually adjust the flow to the three rigs and an see almost immediate shifts in temps. I have some PSI gauges to mount in the loop--but right now am going by eye..

My main rig in the Soldam Alcadia XR-1 case is treated to a handmade "Stinger" Waterblock from fstfrddy of OverClock.net and this is a fairly restrictive block and responds well to high flow. The other two rigs are D-Tek FuZion cooled and I am finding that high flow provides no real increase in shifting of the heat--so I squinched down the ball valves to balance the flow and push more through the Stinger--it's working well.

At first I filled the loop with Dasani and then because I wanted to see the loop better at night I added about 2 oz. of Petras Dye which made the whole loop turn into foam immediately.

If anyone ever wonders why their loop is foaming that would be it right there...

I have about a gallon of fluid in the loop--the lines from the Cooler to the Metering Manifold are about 6' and then I have another almost 6 foot to the XR-1 and then the techstations have very short runs (about a foot or two each) so it is clear that length of tubing run is hardly an issue with the Iwaki RD30.

All the rigs are in the mid 40C range--which means I could probably add some chipset and GFX cooling as well. I am sure the Cooler can handle even more lead.

The Panaflos have got to go though--I will be mounting SanAce1011 in there soon. I run all the fans on low--but the Pannies are still louder than the sound dampened--isolated pump.

Here are some shots of the set up..

I started with my main rig.

http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/2451/test055na8.jpg
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/2460/test070ai2.jpg
The Stinger

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/5615/test058he5.jpg
I used a block off plate of acrylic so I would not have to molest this case.

http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/4576/test068sd5.jpg
Located the Cooler behind my desk--it's fall so cracking the Window now provides a lower ambient :)

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/2215/test067pe7.jpg
Here's the beginnning--I capped off the other valves just in case--but they don't leak or anything...just being cautious.

http://img250.imageshack.us/img250/600/test078sb4.jpg
http://img250.imageshack.us/img250/5803/test081rd3.jpg
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/3094/test084ba8.jpg
The lines are pretty well stealthed. I ran the rig in without power for a bit and then fired it up and was very pleased to see it working of course and then moved on.


http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/2442/sept138uw8.jpg
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/9678/sept139rj1.jpg
http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/6595/sept140gl9.jpg
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/4962/sept142at9.jpg
http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/9519/sept145vo4.jpg
I built a pair of techstations to support Lian Li moboo trays--one is powered by a 560Watt Zeus and the other by an 850 watt BFG (which I will probably swap for a PC Power 750).


On the main rig B3 Q6600 on a P5K Deluxe/the lower techstation is currently running an Abit F190HD and B3 Q6600--but I will be swapping this out for an Asus Blitz Formula later in the week. The taller station got the P35 DFI Inifinity for starters--although I will be shifting the LanParty in a bit. IN the INfinity is doing a stunner job on the E2180 I am messing with. 3333 from a 2 ghz CPU is pretty all right in my book.

I have more shots and have been taking a lot of screenies while benching and so on--which I will form up into a more readable post.

More to come.

your keyboard.............:P

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by johnnyli

your keyboard.............:P

---

I paid $80 for this Unused Unopened 1995 Clicky type M...I love it--I have gone through a ton of keyboards lately.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by KaptCrunch

whats wrong with that......great KB for games....no MS desktop key.
hehehe a 1992 model

CD
that some sexy manifold you got there, luv them ball vavles, great for evening out flows

---

Thanks! It does work pretty well. When I first built it I hooked it up to the garden bib and could see right away that there were three different flow rates.

Next one will be made a little different and feature just 6 valves instead of 8.

I am benching an E2180/HD2900XT/Inifinty right now and look forward to some serious load testing when the EK blocks for the HD 2900XTs get here...they are like Quads in their load...

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/7299/mono3019hy2.jpg
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/8725/mono3020pv6.jpg
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/3581/blood023pc0.jpg
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/4146/blood025gr2.jpg
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/652/blood027nz4.jpg
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/6801/blood030wx3.jpg
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/1373/blood033jm5.jpg

Too much fun:D

Insane!

THe E2180 is an insane OCer so far...running pretty smooth at 3600 on an Infinity--I can see this chip needs Phase...which I might have to hook up next...

I didn't have time to look at the whole thread But from what I have saw, oh it looks so good

Fantastic Work CB
Just the kind of thing we want to see coming out of XS
I am glad to see you setting the bar so high, this is absolutely mind blowing

Keep it up!

Thanks :)

I've got three rigs Folding steady with this set up and with the temps I am seeing I actually think I could run 4...

wow... this is extreme! great work there

caution there is a spider trying steal things from your rig.... i love the blood bios screen... sooo badasss...

amazing work dude... that flow rate thing u made is gorgeous

I was going to make another today but the local Ace is still bought out from my last project.

Still have more I need to do--PSI gauges...a bleeder (hopefull will get some of the bubbles out...) and some better fans..

Oh, and a proper enclosure.

wow, i was going to say how amazing i thought this was ... expecially the one on the first page but then i saw your soldam case and decided i wont want to say anything nice anymore ;)

Oh come on...

I had to have at least one case I will never mod :p:

Right now I have just the DFI LanParty on the beast and it's doing well.

Was going to hook the Maxipad to it too..but decided to leave it portable so I could lug it around.

The Soldam case is now hooked to a cooler that's outside the window :ROTF:

I'm almost done building my shop and I have a 8 x 14 room that will be just for the Crunchers and dust free assembly. It should make a nice space heater :D

just read the whole thread very nice CD

Now stop playing with water and try some phase !!!!!!

its much more fun

haha CD you are crazy with these mods you come up with....i like it! awesome work as usual man, i actually lol'd when i saw this beast :up:

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/4048/ice016ho6.jpg

I had to rebuild the unit. The db-1 pumps failed after a prolonged period of subfreezing weather. Currently using an MCP655 with good results. The Panaflo fan held up well though. But it was so loud that I replaced it for the time being with a 120 x 38mm SilenX...

Still getting 10C above intake Idle and 20C above intake load temps.

I don't understand why you didn't just buy an old freezer and stick all that :banana::banana::banana::banana: inside that with some fans..

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Brian MP5T

I don't understand why you didn't just buy an old freezer and stick all that :banana::banana::banana::banana: inside that with some fans..

---

Because refrigerator and freezers that run all of the time break down even more quickly.

Or burn the house down, which will really ruin your temps. Damn high 1000C+ ambients.....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by taowulf

Or burn the house down, which will really ruin your temps. Damn high 1000C+ ambients.....

---

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :ROTF: :ROTF: :ROTF: :ROTF: :ROTF: :yepp: :yepp: :yepp: :yepp: :yepp: :yepp: :D

1000C+ ambients...... ;)

Very very nice job CD!!
You've never ceased to amaze me!

Isn't that Extreme???

I should have had a cup of joe before posting...Wrong Thread lol.

Exterior, external what's the diff right? long as it's cold...