Can someone point me in the direction of a vmod for this boards please.
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Can someone point me in the direction of a vmod for this boards please.
What kind of vmod? Vcore, vdroop, vdimm, vmch etc.
It would be easier for us to help if you show us some pics.
I'm new to the Vmodding scene so anything for me to study and research while I'm waiting for my board will be appreciated. Particularly concerned about Vdroop at the moment.
Any hints welcome too.
I'll need to know what all is needed. The board already has a good voltage range on most settings, the vdroop is not that big a problem though ;)
System specs will be:
E6850
Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme
Abit IE35 Pro
2x1GB Crucial Ballistix Tracer PC8500
2xSeagate Bara 7200.10 320G
MSI GeForce 8800 Ultra
1200 TT ToughPower 1200W
I've looked around but haven't seen any information of what the max selectable bios voltage is for mem or cpu. My Tracers like voltage (2.6v) and I'm a little concerned about what the board can offer. Your review shows some fantastic numbers (thanks) but I'm going to need more than 515MHz. The order of 550MHz will be needed (seen a 610 vmodded shot on these forums) assuming my E6850 will be able to run that high.
Missed it. Just re-read your review and see you've set all voltages to max in the bios to show us what the board offers. Duh. So mem is not a problem, 3v should do it :shocked:
So I guess all I really need here is a way to get a higher FSB.
mine was limited buy the cpu, I've got a e6850 in post will keep you posted about it ;) :up:
JB is right...chances are you are going to be limited by CPU and not the board. my E6600 is a decent FSB CPU that is prime stable at 550FSB and benchable at 560FSB in a P5B-Dlx with air cooling on the CPU. i have only had the IP35 Pro running for a day and have had no problem getting prime stable at 550FSB already, on stock cooling right out of the box.
all voltages are at the lowest except vMCH (1.56v set in BIOS). here is a screenshot of a quick 550*6 Orthos blend run at an hour:
http://3oh6.com/forum_posted/xtremes...8_prime1hr.png
performance level is 8 and i haven't tried anything higher than 515FSB at PL7 (vMCH 1.46v).
Thanks 3oh6, that's what I had hoped to hear. Seems CPU's are the limiting factor for high FSB. Anyone happen to know a CPU FSB wall hack :p:
All @ lowest voltage...Now I know I bought the right board.
Looking forward to your post Johnny, give us the steppings too please. These little E6850's are still a mystery to me.
except vMCH, which needs small bumps as you raise the FSB. the biggest thing to remember is that the memory divider sets the MCH strap and the PL (perfomance level). overclocking this board is a bit of a juggling act, but once you figure out what does what...its nice to work with.
keep in mind this is just 1 board though so YMMV but i have had a few P5B-Dlxs all of which would clock as high as the CPU would and seen many other IP35 Pro users with high FSBs. as long as there is a 1333 strap, the P965 and P35 chipset boards should all have no problems clocking well over 500FSB as long as the CPU doesn't have a wall.
Still would like to have the Vmods :(
Enjoy! :toast:
http://www.itsjohnnybravo.com/Overcl...tos/vdroop.jpg
nice johnny! :D
i'm having some major droop issues with my board.
argh. wonder if this will help.
just curious, how did you find this?
a datasheet, a multimeter and a degree in electrical and mechanical engineering ;)
lol that's good enough for me! :D
i think i will mod my board today.
i wonder if droop is chip dependent as well.
i have a new e6600 that is causing the board to droop almost 0.09 volts!
the e6700 i had droop about 0.07.
yeah. i'm gonna hope the droop mod works out. :)
i have faith it will.
also, would you suggest setting it to 1K and turning it down or setting it directly to 620 - 650 ohm before soldering it on?
anyone got vcore ? 1.85V is not enough for LN2
hey, I am serious about vcore, it's a MUST, I need at least 1.96V for LN2 !!!
I think I have it tho will need to setup the board again to actually test - bare with me should have something up in 24 hours.
I got a hint that it should be pin4 to GND, I measured resistence and it's 1062 Ohms, the only thing i need to measure where it's connected.
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/5587/vdrooplv1.jpg
NOT TESTED !!!!
Has anyone tried the vdroop mod yet?
Just for fsb limits of the board I have my E6600 which is fsb walled at 540, this baord got it there with no issues and only 1.44vmch. I tried a multitude of other combos to get the cpu over its wall and only got it to post once at 545 with this baord but it crashed.
The board is golden for fsb just needs the right cpu.
Does anyone know the vcore measurement point? I want to do this mod tonight but I don't want to rely on software to tell me how well it's working
this is what i found from probing around the socket. it should work
http://www.bleedinedge.com/forum/sho...48&postcount=2
Thank you, I'll test that right now. Do you have any other measure points, especially vdimm?
vdimm can be found in that huge thread in the intel section. :)
not sure what page. i guess you'll have to use the search function on that thread.
Already found it, I forgot that vdimm was on that picture, thought it was vtt for some reason :p:
Thanks, I'll post later tonight to let you all know how the mod went
Just want to report my real vcore measurements
at idle I get 1.45 switching back and forth to 1.47 rapidly, but when I put it under load it instantly spikes up to 1.589v (1.61v in bios) when running 1024K FFT lenghts in Prime95 and to 1.579 when running 8K FTT lengths in Prime95.
Is that weird or what? Why would there be massive vdroop at idle but not too bad at load
Found out that was because I had EIST/C1E on :rolleyes:
Either way, I did the mod, it came out great, my vcore is ROCK solid now :rocker: I'll post pictures tomorrow
Johnny, I noticed if I keep lowering my resistance my vcore gradually increases towards the voltage set in my BIOS. Do you think it is safe to keep decreasing it so I can get a 1:1 voltage? Currently I have a .08v droop
shimmishim - you're bang on the money for that vcore measuring point, it's the same one I use :up:
MikalCarbine - yes as you decrease the resistance you will notice that the vcore at idle will rise, as well as the droop. The rate at which the idle rises is slower than that for the droop so lets say "stock" it was 1.45v your new idle may be 1.48 but your voltage at load will also now be ~1.48v. Basically have ORTHOS or similar up and running then start it up, adjust, idle it to see what the new idle vcore is and adjust accordingly. after a few round of this you will eventually get a 1:1 ratio or there abouts. I normally run it with just a little droop in case of any voltage overshoot.
Johnny. any news on vcore mod, I am really starting to need it
This morning I woke up to a BSOD after folding last night, I checked my vcore with my DMM and it was 1.56, when it used to be 1.572... so I readjusted my potentiometer so my volts were back up there. Any reason why this would happen? My vcore is set the same in BIOS and all
just did the droop mod. works perfectly now! :)
1.44 = 1.44 :D
Has anyone who has done this seen any negative effects like those seen on the DS3's vdroop mod? Any effect on overclocking?
Sorry for delay was out of town :
http://www.itsjohnnybravo.com/Overcl...0&%20vcore.jpg
again, excellent job!
if i ever get around to dry ice, i will have to give this mod a try.
thanks!
Just a note, at 50kOhm you will get a voltage rise of around 0.05-0.06volts before you begin to reduce the resistance, I've chosen to use the 50K as it should provide more accurate control than a 100k.
thank you johnny, very much :D will try both ASAP
Does anyone knows about Vdrop mod for IP35 Off Limits???
Johnny, i have the non-pro version of IP35. The circuit differs a bit
here it is:
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/5650/dsc03620ss2.jpg
Sorry for the bad quality but is taken from a mobile phone.
Can u find the vdroop mod like this, or u need more info?
Really need some help here, very new to this.
I picked up the necessary bits yesterday. Followed a tip and stuck the 1K ohm inside a fan header. Took measurements with a multi meter and all good.
For the soldering a did a test run on an old sound card, soldering wires to the IC's. That went fine, or atleast okay.
Impatiently I moved onto the my motherboard. This is where the Frustration kicked in. Unlike on the soundcard, my solder would not stick to the IC's. I'm actually surprised my kit is up and running, the amount of times I attempted it.
Method I used was to get some solder on the end of my wire. Put the soldering iron very briefly on top of the IC. Put the wire tip on the IC, and then put the soldering iron tip on it for about 2-3 seconds, allowing the solder to melt. No Joy though.
Why the difference? Do I need to prep the IC's then with flux, and if so what sort of flux and how? Due to oxidization do I need to clean the IC's up somehow? They do look kind of delicate though, can't picture sanding them.
If anyone can give me some pointers here will be really appreciated:)
Thanks ahead.
RLM
ps. By the way, I don't think I tinned the solder properly or thoroughly enough due to ignorance. Most articles just say tin the tip with solder, without explaining further. Would that make the difference?
Try like this.
Solder on the wire. Put the wire on the place you need it to stick.
Put the soldering iron on the wire and the place you want it to stay for 1½ sek. Just enough to make the solder and the "soldering place" to bound.
Remove iron and if it sticks and you cant move it with a littelpoke be happy.
Even if it is not so perfect as you want it to be, dont try and improve it.
Nosfer@tu,
Thanks a lot for the reply, it is appreciated.
I did actually do that as well as tinning the wire beforehand. Thing is it just wouldn't stick. Don't know if there was some sort of coating already on the surface? or whether I needed to use flux.
RLM
Try to clean you soldering tip.
Also the flux in the solder can be "damaged" or burned of if you heat it up to many times.
Use a NEW whire. Dont tin it, try to get it to stick with what it connected at the Soldering point.
If that dosent work.
IF you have a tin sucker, remove as much tin as possible, But dont over do the heat. Remember to Blow air on the soldering place so it cools down every time. Heat is A MOTHER if it is a small capasitor or resister. They die easly.
use a new whire, tin it, Place it where you want to solder, Heat the whire and solder point up very breifly. Remove iron and blow cold air, Just blow on it, No fansy fan or anything.
Now find a Glass pen somwhere, they are used to remove coatings on solder points. I learned it the hard way on a 5900 Se a few years back..
Nosfer@tu,
Thanks for the detailed response. Very helpful:)
Unfortunately I've actually copped out a bit. A went with a friend to buy his DFI P35-T2R last Friday, and the temptation got the better of me so I did the same and sold my IP35 pro.
That said here's a test run I did on an old sound card. Wouldn't hurt to get a bit of practice in:)
http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/1161/testrunmn9.jpg
RLM
Looks like you know what you are doing m8 :)
That wireing you are using, is that from a IDE Cable ?
I always make sure not to have the cables "flying" I juste 1 cm of tape and that gives me insulation so I can place the wire parralel with the board.
Just makes me fell more safe abouth the soldering :) Not that big a risk of tarring it of my bistake :)
I took the risk and i did this mod. It worked perfect for me.I connect that red spot to ground. But still, Jonnybravo (or an other electronics engineer) must confirm or else dont try it.
At 700ohm is the best u can succeed as Jonny mentioned before. Vdroop is not dismissed at all but it wasnt as much as before.
For ground i used the metallic circles around the screw-holes. I dont have pictures of the mod cause i dont have the mobo anymore. It died from humidity after 2 hours dry-ice benching :(
Here is a pic that i found but u cant really see the mod, only the blue trimmer just to believe me :p:
http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/7346/dsc03635zw3.jpg
thanks for replying ..=)
By the way how did you manage to find that spot in the first place?
It wasnt my invention :P:
JonnyBravo was the one who found out that the red spot in the pic below should be connected to a resistor in order to decrease vdroop.
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/9181/untitledkg7.jpg
The picture is from PWM's datasheet.
But still ....i dont have knowlege in electronics. I just used simple logic. So i wouldnt recommended it to anyone if an expert wont confirm
thanks alot =) i will try and consult a few other specialists about this as well
Yes that is the correct way to do the vdroop mod basically pin 15 to ground. I recommend buzzing out a passive component that is connected to pin 15 in order to avoid damaging the voltage controller and try to keep wire lengths short so a close ground point is ideal.
I avoid using nail polish cause is hard to remove in case of RMA. The problem with IP35 is that the PWM is very very close to socket so u have to be careful. Humidity is high in my place since im just few km from the sea :P
Acetone works GREAT ;)
I have no problems.
http://www.octeamdenmark.com/forums/...read.php?t=509
@ johnny!
you big geek! :p
ahh you're just jealous :D
No problem :)
OK in order to avoid damaging the controller chip, ie the big black square, foir the heat of the soldering or any mistakes its better to find the nearest component that it is connected or shorted to. You can do this by either having very good eye sight and tracing the copper traces on the board or much easier and safer using a multimeter with a continuity tester that buzzes when there is a short. place one probe on the correct chip pin of the controller and start trying the ends of the SMD capacitors and resistors near that area, when you find one that is connected use it as the soldering point instead.
Hope that helps
John
Any body know about Vmch mod for this board ?
Johnny Bravo maybe you can help !!!!
bios gives more than enough. P35 can go 550+ fsb with ~1.5v
How about a vDimm mod?
I need to zap my D9GMHs...
both vmch and vddr should be the same as those of the QuadGT, I'll have a look later tonite
For reference:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...1&postcount=13
Thanks Johny I will try later
QuadGT vDIMM mod works on IP35 Pro.
:)
Johnny Bravo
http://st1.risunok.net/19227/P93038928.jpg am i right ? as i can see one of the pins on mosfet place named g- ground?
it is ip35-e
cka3o4nuk - G does not indicate "ground" it indicates "gate" as in drain, source, gate (terminals of FET) you will have to use a multimeter to find a suitable ground. As for the other pin just make sure it is attached to pin 15 of the controller chip.
Johnny Bravo thank you very much for answer one more question
can i just add constant resistor 650 om or not ?
oke so we have Vdroop mod , vcore mod and vdimm mod , now we still need cpu PLL mod :D
looks like I'm going to buy this mobo also I like the results you guy's get on it :)
lol, maybe the vcore mod is working for me
works above 2.0v without problem, the red line u can measure the vcore
http://pic.xfastest.com/hicookie/Abi...o/P9212836.JPG
No worries hicookie, seems it was because he soldered to the IC not to a component, and damaged it - as you can see we have very similar mods anyway ;)
http://www.itsjohnnybravo.com/Overcl...0&%20vcore.jpg
The vdroop mod doesn't work on IP35 Pro v1.1 . I set 1.4v BIOS, windows = 1.3v after modded. no effected after modded
hmmm have you used a variable resistor or a fixed resistor?
1Kohm won't be any use, you need to be either around 650ohm or using a variable VR that's 1K/5K maybe even 10K (though you'll have to be very gentle with adjustments as the change in lower resistance will be quite big)
so,
does we have a working vpll for ip35-pro?
Any pic?
Thanks
I think I borked mine:shrug:, but one question. The red dot at the rt in the pic, is that referenced to ground? Because that is what I get at that point with my fluke, .3 ohm to the case. I was having a hard time getting the wire to stick on that point and finially gave up but now I get post code 8.7.and it won't continue past that:( I didn't get any solder across the contacts.
The red dot to t he right is ground - have you checked everything is still soldered together? Excessive heat can be dangerous but I recommend a good blanking of the BIOS. Have you checked to see if there is a vcore present even with the error?
No vcore, bummer. I'll try a all day cmos clear while I'm at work today.
I pulled the mod out when it wouldn't run.
I lost contact to the mb at that ground point and having a tough time getting the solder to flow to the board. I guess I'll try and wire that resistor to ground, LOL. This is what happens when your eyes are going out, magnifing glass and all.:rofl:
Me?
None because I cant see the picture you posted ;)
i saw in a other thread the vpll mod for the IP35 but not the pro .
the only thing i found out so far is the vpll read out , if now someone can find the mod it self for the pro it will be great :D .
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...llreadout1.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...pllreadout.jpg
its the little red dot on the little chip on the side of the chipset , i have a stock off 1.536vpll . lol and my E6850 can so 565fsb on air so far :D
IP35 Pro Vpll mod.
u should beter use a 2k or 5k VR 1k = 1.88vpll and stock is 1.536vpll ;) , but the mod works so im happy :p: