Bit the bullet. First custom loop. Will be logging here.

Currently own... dare I say without being judged? Might as well, everyone makes mistakes. I currently own a Gigabyte 3d galaxy II. Which, though it never performed as well as all the reviews I read, it still did good enough for me at first. Plus, it was a present, so free is free :) .

With ambient temperatures of 26C+ and 3.2ghz @ 1.4volts I was reaching 62C load after a 10 hour orthos loop on my C2D 6400. This was obviously the limit I wanted to push, though I have pushed 72C on air for brief periods of time with no ill effect.

However, I recently purchased a MCW60 for my gpu, and after installing my cpu temps started hitting 62C just a few minutes into orthos. And even more recently, my pump decided to go erratic. Now, every so often I will have to give it a tap when booting so it will pump. Luckily its under warranty, so I will be sending it in leaving me with no cooling means.

Obviously, all this lead up to me deciding to get a new system. I tinkered with WC back around the Athlon Thunderbird days with a friend of mine but not since. So, I did some research on this forum and finally came up with a system that I just finished ordering. Here are the major parts:

D-TEK FuZion Universal CPU Waterblock - 1/2"
Swiftech MCR-320 "Quiet Power" Series Radiator - Black
3x 120mm Yate Loon D12SL-12 Case Fan - Black (47 CFM, 28 dBA)
1/2" ID (3/4" OD) Tygon R-3603 Laboratory-Grade Tubing
Laing DDC w/ Petra'sTech DDCT-01s Top Combo
and
D-Tek GFX UNI-Sink ( because the installation of those ramsinks on my 8800 was a pain, I thought I'd get this and at least test it out. )

Also included all the various thermal pastes, hose clamps, biocide, etc.
And, I already have teh MCW60 which I plan to use in the loop.

I just wanted to post here and thank everyone for all the info they have already provided, and for being there when help is needed. I will be logging as I setup because this will be my first custom loop, and I am sure I will need all the help I can get.

Here are some pictures of my first loop, and then the loop once the gpu was added. All of which required absolutely no case modification, and I doubt I will get away with that with the new setup.

My original loop with just the CPU.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/5969/cpuloop.jpg

Orthos after 10 Hours with just the CPU in the loop
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/3...ycpuorthos.jpg

My 8800GTX sporting a sweet MCW60 and ramsinks ( what a pain )
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/6...00swiftech.jpg

Read about this somewhere. Look at the stock TIM on my NB and SB of my EVGA 680i. Replaced it with some AS5.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/9115/goop.jpg

My loop with 8800GTX added to it.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/3702/cpugpuloop.jpg


That's about it for now. Hopefully my new stuff will be arriving this week sometime and I can begin the transfer over. Probably be some cutting I have to do to my case, so dunno how long it will take. Any input will be useful :) Like where to put my new radiator in that case.

Thanks,
Dateranoth

Maybe put it in the bottom? Idk, that case looks really non-H20 friendly.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ColonelCain

Maybe put it in the bottom? Idk, that case looks really non-H20 friendly.

---

Yeah, it really isn't. Though, up top, there is a lot of free room. If I moved my cdrom down I should have lots of room up there. But, I don't really know the size of the Radiator yet, so we shall see.

Thanks,
Dateranoth

mount the radiator on the top +1.

Put it out the back on a swiftech rad box. It has worked out ok for you with rad there 'till now. Why not continue?
Is that a tagan psu? your cables look familiar.
I suspect you may be better rotating your gpu block for tube routing reasons. Guess you'll see.
The two black heatsinks up near your cpu have bad contact on their chips and more of that grey goop putty TIM. A lot of guys have replaced the goop with AS Ceramique and put a light bend in the middle of each heat sink to improve contact. If you look you'll see how some of the chips aren't even denting the goop, usually the middle couple. They run really hot and good airflow helps. Especially the one beside the R50 marked coils. Those run that hot it burns the R50 lettering off in a month or so. Some guys have added heat sinks to them too, using the same as your vid card, either swiftech or enzotech which are better. Th ET ones stick better. Those swiftech sinks fall off regularly.

If you are short on room, have you considered one of these?
http://www.petrastechshop.com/newa.html

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jedda

Put it out the back on a swiftech rad box. It has worked out ok for you with rad there 'till now. Why not continue?
Is that a tagan psu? your cables look familiar.
I suspect you may be better rotating your gpu block for tube routing reasons. Guess you'll see.
The two black heatsinks up near your cpu have bad contact on their chips and more of that grey goop putty TIM. A lot of guys have replaced the goop with AS Ceramique and put a light bend in the middle of each heat sink to improve contact. If you look you'll see how some of the chips aren't even denting the goop, usually the middle couple. They run really hot and good airflow helps. Especially the one beside the R50 marked coils. Those run that hot it burns the R50 lettering off in a month or so. Some guys have added heat sinks to them too, using the same as your vid card, either swiftech or enzotech which are better. Th ET ones stick better. Those swiftech sinks fall off regularly.

---

I'm really thinking about mounting the rad on the back. I am VERY limited on room now that I got the ruler out. The rad is 410mm from top to bottom.. My case in 440mm from top to bottom... If I do a top mount, i will have bareely 15mm of clearance between my psu and the radiator. Unless I mount it on the outside of the case. Mounting at the bottom would leave me the most room. Though I would have to relocate my HDs to the 5.5 bays.

Yeah, I was touching those R50 coils the other day during load.. ouch. Have some spare ramsinks somewhere, and will probably add those when I do the WC install. Thanks for the headsup on the other heatsink. I will attend to those :).


Now that I look closer. The way the radbox is made to mount, I won't be able to use it because the MCR320 will be below the bottom of my case. Man, this is already shaping up to be a job, and I haven't even recieved anything yet.

My case:
200mm wide 560mm deep 440mm tall

PSU takes up the back 160mm and I have 26mm to spare in the front panel before it will potrude out of the case.

MCR320-QP
410mm Tall x 128mm wide

Leaving me with very few options. Any more ideas anyone? Also, if I do mount on the bottom of the case. I only have at most 10mm below the bottom of the case to the floor ( the gap created by the feet ). Will this be sufficient to expell or pull in the require airflow?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Friedchicken

If you are short on room, have you considered one of these?
http://www.petrastechshop.com/newa.html

---

Almost wish I had. As the cost would have been almost identical without any real work from me, but eh :) then it would be just another kit. Plus, it's not in stock, and I already ordered my stuff! :) thanks for the suggestion though.

Dateranoth

P.S.
I just wanted to add that Petra's Roxorz My Soxorz. I ordered my parts last night, and I'll be if they haven't already shipped out today! Minus a small lack of inventory ( but who hasn't been short on stuff lately :) ) If the merchandise is as good as the service I will be doing all my WC from Petra's from now on, and will recommend them to others!

I believer this is going to be my best option. I will most likely mount the radiator externally like newls1 did in this picture:

http://home.comcast.net/~dateranoth84/newls1.jpg

Won't know for sure till the radiator gets here, but I do believe it will be my best option.

Dateranoth

I've taken the route listed above, but I would like some input. I am soon to be posting the entire work log of this project. Right, however, I would like to know if I am providing my fans with enough clearance. I wanted a slimmer approach than the above picture. Is this going to hinder my overall airflow? From feel alone it seems as if the fans are drawing just as much air as they were before mounting. They are pulling down through the rad btw.

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/1...drightside.jpg



Thanks,

Dateranoth

It looks good but it wouldn't hurt to raise it a bit more.

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing, but I've f'd up now. I've already got the tubing cut to length and I just BARELY had enough. (note to self: order more than 8ft of tubing next time) . So, I guess my only real option is to test it out ( once my new mobo gets here, this one is dead) and see how it performs. I suppose if it doesn't do as well as it should then I will have no choice but to buy more tubing and raise it ( perhaps putting in the 1" spacers I have instead )

Thanks for the input,

Dateranoth

Well. I've finished my setup. Didn't take me as long as I expected it would. I wanted to post up my work log and pictures now.

First I want to thank Petras for their amazing quick order fulfillment and shipping speeds. I ordered on a Sunday and my parts shipped out that Monday. They also sent me a personalized note stating the quality of the components I ordered and thanking me for my support, along with their best wishes on my setup. I would like to return the thanks. Now that I have received and installed all the components I can attest to the quality that Petras offers.

A sneak peak at my setup and a thank you to Petras.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/7937/petras.jpg
Shop Petras! www.PetrasTechShop.com

On a final note to getting this show started. I will not be reporting any temperatures at this time. Due to the fact that my motherboard has suffered damages during the rebuild ( was flaking out before ) and I am currently awaiting my rma shipment.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and support.

Dateranoth

My parts arrived last Thursday.

Petra'sTech "PT_Nuke"
5.25" Sunbeam Rheobus Fan RHEOBUS-SIL
Petra'sTech "Gel-Stuff"
Swiftech MCRES-MICRO
D-TEK FuZion Universal
Swiftech MCR-320 "QuietPower" Series Radiator
120mm Yate Loon D12SL-12 x3
1/2" ID (3/4" OD) Tygon 8ft
1/2" OD T-Fitting
Stainless Steel Worm-Drive Hose Clamp x14
Ceramique - 22 gram tube
Arctic Silver Combo
Arctic Silver Adhesive
Danger Den Delrin FillPort
Laing DDC w/ Petra'sTech DDCT-01s Top Combo 1
1/2'' D-Tek High-Flow barbs
Laing DDC-2 (18W)
3" Petra'sTech Logo
EK High-Flow Fitting 1/2" OD
120mm Yate Loon D12SL-12
D-Tek GFX UNI-Sink

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/4946/supplies.jpg

That same day I went out and bought some more supplies :) Water.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/2866/water.jpg

And of course I needed some tools. This is most of what I used ( aside from a screwdriver ;-) )
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/6514/tools.jpg

Now, to backtrack a little. I first had to remove all the old water cooling stuff. Not a big deal and went pretty fast. Also, I knew I would be ordering the Unisink to replace the ramsinks I had ( I really hated those little bastages and I thought I would give the unisink a try. Bought Arctic adhesive this time around in case I decided to use them again )

First I removed the ramsinks and spent the day before my parts arrived cleaning the freaking super glue off the components.

Before I began my work on the 8800GTX, I decided to get to cleaning the radiator. I used the method listed in one of the stickies. My rad didn't seem to have as much gunk in it, but I'm sure it helped :)
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/9...anradiator.jpg



After I had the rad soaking I cleaned the 8800GTX even more thoroughly once the parts arrived and I had my arctic cleaner.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/9563/cleaninggpu.jpg

I then installed the Unisink, and things began to not go right. I noticed that the Unisink wasn't making contact with all the ramsinks. ( no picture since I couldn't get the camera to focus enough ) It was a visible gap in some places though. After a bit of cursing, I came up with a solution.

When I placed my order for my MCW60, I also ordered an adapter plate for the 8800GTX. However, the retail MCW kit now ships with an adapter plate. So, I decided I would use the other plate to hold down the unisink better around the processor. This also ran into a snag. The plate was blocking the installation of the water block.

I need to cut it out!
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/7291/unisink1.jpg

That's ok though! I have a dremel!
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/9...adaptercut.jpg
Not the best cut in the world, but it works and you can't really see it when its installed :)

Look, at leas my measurements were right! The block now fits through the plate.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/1...roverblock.jpg

And it does a fine job of holding the Unisink Down.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/4...ldsunisink.jpg

I will note that after a few installs and removals, it still doesn't seem to contact everything perfectly. However, until I can test it I won't be able to say one way or another as to its effectiveness.

During all this I had been cleaning the radiator and also the gpu block. Once cleaned I installed the gpu block onto the 8800GTX. It was late, and I had had a bit to drink at this point.

Notice Something Wrong in this picture? I didn't till it was too late. I'll get to that later.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/4...blockwrong.jpg

No Petra Top on that DDC-2? :(.

Which GPU Block are you going to use?

Oh, the top is there :) I just had to install it.

The day after my parts came in I began more work.

The pump in pieces
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/2...topreplace.jpg

After a very easy installation. I now have an assembled DDC with Petras Top.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/2429/petrastop.jpg

Next will be the layout of my radiator.

nice work Dateranoth :)
Keep us upto date. When are you getting your motherboard back ??

After thinking long and hard and doing many measurements before my radiator arrived I came to a conclusion. The ONLY place to mount the radiator was going to be outside the case on top. I just did not have the room for it anywhere else. I suppose I COULD have mounted it on the bottom inside, but that would have required modification of my case beyond what I desired.

Looking at how I was going to layout the radiator:
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/7...lradlayout.jpg

While laying out the radiator and where I needed to cut my holes, I realized that my rad was shorter ( by almost 7mm ) than what the layout I downloaded from Swiftech's site saide. So, I tossed it and remeasured everything.

Once I had measure and remeasured I was ready to drill. ( Note the 4 marks in the center actually didn't get drilled. I decided that they were unnecessary for support )
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/9...adytodrill.jpg

Once the small holes were drilled, I proceeded to knocking out holes for my tubing.

The Punch Set. Wonderful tool!
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/6647/knockout.jpg

The fill port is not shown on the layout, because I was undecided upon location at the time.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/4484/firsthole.jpg

Finally, all the holes are done!
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/6...esfinished.jpg

Before mounting the radiator I pulled out the fans to give them a test spin. They all worked great and quietly. ( still haven't found a use for the LED one )
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/821/fans.jpg

Now, before I post the next picture I just wanted to clear something up. It has the micro res in it. I installed it before I installed the radiator. However, this was no easy process. I spend literally hours deciding where I wanted it located, and finally mounted it in it's current position. This was mainly due space/fillport location. Needless to say, the process is done in this picture but took some time.

My rad w/ fans and res installed
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/9...edleftside.jpg

Front view of rad w/ fans and res
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/1...untedfront.jpg

I didn't like all the loose fan wiring, so I taped them up.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/6...anfanwires.jpg

Finally, A picture of the res with fill port ( yeah I know its kinked but its just a fill port and I didn't have any other option ) and wire routing.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/8416/resfillport.jpg

Next comes the installation of sinks on the mobos mosfets and the installation of cpu block and vid card.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jabski

nice work Dateranoth :)
Keep us upto date. When are you getting your motherboard back ??

---

Hopefully next week. The rma has already been approved and I'm just waiting on EVGA to ship my new mobo to me. Once it gets here I can send the old one back.

Thanks for the support.
Dateranoth

Before I could install the loop I still needed to mount the new D-Tek water block and my mobo back into the case.

That is done here:
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/8...alledwrong.jpg
Pay careful attention here. As I noted earlier I F'd up big time during my drunken stupor and still I haven't noticed! I will soon though.

After careful routing and even more careful cutting of the tubing the loop is done. I only had 4 inches left of the 8ft I ordered ( with no mistakes! )
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/5378/loopdone.jpg
Also note that those clamps were a pain in my bottom to get around the D-tek. I had to take one completely loose and "thread it in." However, once installed they worked great :)

Front view of the loop without any coolant:
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/4918/loopfront.jpg

Now with the loop done I went into the kitchen to begin adding the coolant and leak testing.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/8...aktestoops.jpg


Now, here comes the part where I must admit to my own stupidity. I was having trouble filling the loop. I couldn't get the coolant to fill for some reason. In my excitement of getting this far I didn't notice a very important thing.

I EVEN TOOK A PICTURE OF IT WHILE IT WAS HAPPENING! GAH.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/787/noticeleak.jpg

If you look closely at the picture above you will noticed what I failed to while taking the picture. The paper towel below the gpu and behind the pump is SOAKING WET! DOH.

I noticed it soon after that picture was taken. And promptly found the culprit! The gpu block itself.

Note to self: Pay more attention!
Before I mounted it I took it apart to clean ( since I had been running it in a loop with aluminum ) and in my sleepy drunkenness ( it was like 2am at the time ) I installed the mounting plate BETWEEN the copper block and the top! BETWEEN and went through all that installation without noticing!!! God I feel dumb sometimes.

Well, after cleaning up all the water, which thankfully drained mostly into the bottom of the case I disassembled the 8800. I removed the block and assembled it correctly and then blow dried the gpu. I also let it set for a number of hours and then put the loop all back together for leak test #2!

The second time through I actually got the tubing completely filled and the air bled. Also, no leaks! Since this picture I have actually leak tested for well over 24 hours with no additional problems.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/9...akfreebled.jpg

Last will come the pictures of my finished loop with all components installed.

Well, after three days of installation I finished my loop. I got all the components reinstalled and the wires routed fairly neatly.

Blurry side view:
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/8...edloopside.jpg

Closeup 1:
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/6...ishedloop2.jpg

Closeup 2:
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/2...ishedloop3.jpg

Closeup 3:
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/1...ishedloop4.jpg

Cloesup 4:
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/7...ishedloop5.jpg

Naked Finished Front:
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/1569/frontnaked.jpg

And once again. The top view!:
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/7937/petras.jpg

glad you caught leak early...now once it is all done and leak free...feel free to have a few beers and shots...*-)

Now, sadly, as I mentioned earlier, when I booted up my computer for the first time I began getting all sorts of anomalies. It would randomly freeze at different post sections, wouldn't even start sometimes. All sorts of things. I tried everything in my power, from removing everything and reinstalling, to using only certain ram chips, to buying a new psu. Nothing worked. So, I called EVGA and their tech support said the symptoms were similar to a dying mobo. So, I RMA'd it and am currently awaiting a replacement.

Once I have the replacement in hand and have a chance to get some numbers you all will be the first to know! Thanks again for everyones support!


Dateranoth

P.S.
Keep me in your thoughts that its not a bad cpu as well! :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dateranoth

P.S.
Keep me in your thoughts that its not a bad cpu as well! :)

---

DOH...:eek:
Don't jinx yourself..;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Grinch

glad you caught leak early...now once it is all done and leak free...feel free to have a few beers and shots...*-)

---

hehe. Indeed, and trust me. Once I had it all setup and then found out the mobo was dead I went straight to my stress reliever friend: alcohol.

BTW. My case will be closed, so you won't really see it, but I was wondering if I should have gotten some sort of color additive. I like it how it is but I don't. I may add a case window in the future and perhaps then I will add the color.

Dateranoth

just preference really...color is more blingy...*-)

Yeah. The only other thing I like about color is it's easier to see the air bubbles. :) I had to look real close to find the small bubble in this clear tubing on clear coolant.


I just wish I could test it! Dang the bad luck.

Dateranoth

maybe when you get new mobo in...drain most of your loop and refill with some color?

dead mobo sucks but evga has great support i should know

btw: if u ever do a revision an ek tube resevior mounted vertically next to the mobo should free up those bays where the micro res is

lookin good tho as it's not easy to wc a small case

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by coolrmaster

dead mobo sucks but evga has great support i should know

btw: if u ever do a revision an ek tube resevior mounted vertically next to the mobo should free up those bays where the micro res is

lookin good tho as it's not easy to wc a small case

---

Thanks :) . I was actually thinking of mounting the micro res there, but it was to deep. The nozzles ended up being too close to the outside of the case. Thankfully I don't need those bays :) and to tell you the truth, if I do a revision it will probably be with a T-line. I thought the micro res would be a snap bleeding the air is the only reason I used it. However, it turned out that the pump was pulling so hard and fast that it actually was pulling the air right back through before it had a chance to bleed out! haha.

I will admit that the res did allow me to leave it running and bleed some of the smaller bubbles with ease. Thanks for the input though, I will certainly keep that in mind!

Dateranoth

Well, my mobo finally shipped out from EVGA. It is scheduled to arrive Tuesday of next week. I have also ordered some of the High Speed Yate Loons which I am going to use to replace the low speed ones I currently have. The fan controller is almost useless on the low speed ones so I figure I'll have more head room with the high speed fans.

Once I get it all installed I'll update again with some temps... finally :)

Dateranoth

nice setup

but imho using 3 fans on the top of the rad is a must to protect it or atleast a grill

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SaFrOuT

nice setup

but imho using 3 fans on the top of the rad is a must to protect it or atleast a grill

---

Ah, you mean to protect the fins? Yeah... I've been mulling it over, but I can't think of what I want to put over it that would look good. Ideally I would like to build an aluminum shroud around it with a grill on the shroud. To both blend it with the case and protect it. I just have to think up a way to do it :)

Dateranoth

Well, my new mobo finally showed up last week. Along with 3 high speed yate loons and some thermal paste. Some quick numbers:

3.2Ghz @ 1.38v

44C Idle
53C Load


Just reformatted, so I don't have the gpu numbers yet, but I think they were around 45C. I ran a 10 hour orthos before I reformatted, and it was stable, but I need to do some further voltage tweaking and what not. I'll post more numbers and pictures within the week.

I did have one major problem that I did not fix and need help solving. In my stupidity, when I sent the mobo back I took the cpu block off of course. I then left it attached to the loop in the case. This would have been fine, but I accidently touched it in all my frustration. The finger prints ended up tarnishing it somehow. You can clearly make out my finger prints on the block. I cleaned it the best I could but the finger prints won't go away. I hate to think that the only solution now is to lap it. Any suggestions? The block is currently installed with finger prints. Do you think my temps are greatly effected by it?

Thanks,
Dateranoth

Vinegar, or ketchup, goo gone will all work for taken off finger prints among other thigns.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dateranoth

Well, my new mobo finally showed up last week. Along with 3 high speed yate loons and some thermal paste. Some quick numbers:

3.2Ghz @ 1.38v

44C Idle
53C Load


Just reformatted, so I don't have the gpu numbers yet, but I think they were around 45C. I ran a 10 hour orthos before I reformatted, and it was stable, but I need to do some further voltage tweaking and what not. I'll post more numbers and pictures within the week.

I did have one major problem that I did not fix and need help solving. In my stupidity, when I sent the mobo back I took the cpu block off of course. I then left it attached to the loop in the case. This would have been fine, but I accidently touched it in all my frustration. The finger prints ended up tarnishing it somehow. You can clearly make out my finger prints on the block. I cleaned it the best I could but the finger prints won't go away. I hate to think that the only solution now is to lap it. Any suggestions? The block is currently installed with finger prints. Do you think my temps are greatly effected by it?

Thanks,
Dateranoth

---

Microfiber cloth and the Arctic Cleaner kit works well. Any pics of your new setup?

Actually, I meant corrosion. Like, somehow the oil from my fingers corroded the copper. I can't FEEL any grooves or anything but I can SEE distinctly, my finger print on the center of the block. I tried AS cleaner, vineger and all sorts of stuff, but it just won't come off. It feels smooth and still has a mirror look, but the finger print is there... Any suggestions?

As for the pictures, nothing has changed from the last set I posted on the first page of this Thread :) . Well, aside from the fans and mobo, but they all look exactly the same ;).

Thanks,
Dateranoth

I like the no color tubes a lot more than the standard colors. It showcases the beauty of R-3603. Congratulations. I don't have a great fondness for the Pentosin blue color.

Sorry just expressing my opinion.

for the block, i guess lapping would work

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by IanY

I like the no color tubes a lot more than the standard colors. It showcases the beauty of R-3603. Congratulations. I don't have a great fondness for the Pentosin blue color.

Sorry just expressing my opinion.

---

Thanks, I'm pretty happy with my setup now. Besides, I don't have a case window in yet sooo.. not much to look at :) function over form for me

Dateranoth

Well, I have finally ran all the tests. I can now share the temperatures with you guys. I'll start from the beginning.. Just for kicks.

Using the stock intel fan I got these numbers:

Original factory setup 25C ambient
CPU @ 3.1Ghz Overclocked : 69C (load)
GPU @ stock: 58C ( idle ) 85C ( load )

Here's a picture. Note the temps after only 1 minute of orthos :)
STOCK FANS 3.1Ghz No water cooling installed:
http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/649...coolingiv5.jpg

3D Galaxy II with only CPU in loop 25C ambient
CPU @ 3.2Ghz Overclocked: 54C ( idle ) 62C ( load )
GPU @ stock: 59C ( idle ) 85C ( load )

Water Cooled CPU ONLY ( 3d Galaxy II ) 10 hour orthos
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/3...ycpuorthos.jpg

3D Galaxy II with CPU AND GPU in loop 26C ambient
CPU @ 3.2Ghz Overclocked: 69C ( load )
GPU @ stock 55C ( load )

NO picture for above tests.

NEW watercooled setup @ 27C ambient:
CPU @ 3.2Ghz Overclocked after 24 hour orthos: 43C ( idle ) 53C ( CPU load ) 45C ( GPU load )
GPU @ 648mhz Overclocked after 24 hour orthos run: 41C ( idle ) 41C ( CPU load ) 43C ( GPU load )

Pictures:

24 hour Orthos Run CPU Stress test: ( CPU load )
http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/166...punewloxj6.jpg

24 hour Orthos Ran. GPU then stress tested: ( GPU load )
http://img357.imageshack.us/img357/4...rorthosbz6.jpg

Idle system after 24 hour Orthos Run: ( Idle )
http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/254...oopidleee8.jpg


Well. That pretty much sums it up. Do those temps seem about right to you all? I am extremely happy myself. Even thinking of pushing the CPU overclock some more. However, right now I'm still trying to get the old pump from the 3d galaxy cleaned and working. I sent it in for RMA and the sons of *****es just sent me the same freaking unit right back without doing anything to it.

Also, on another note. I have the GPU memory clocked at 972mhz and the Uni-Sink ( which I finally got to seat through methods listed earlier in the thread ) seems to be working great.

Overall I am very happy. Thanks again for all of your support. Hope the log might be useful to some as others logs were useful to me.

Dateranoth

nice temps :)
got any pics of the final system ??

Here's a final picture. Case still needs to be cleaned, but that's what she looks like. Nothing internal has changed from the last page.
http://img409.imageshack.us/img409/9...aseshotxs6.jpg

Well, as an update. I finally had to replace my psu. Whenever I shutdown my computer I would have to turn the psu off at the switch or unplug it. So, went to BB bought an identical though higher revision PSU. Installed it and returned the old one. And tada. Finally after all the trouble, a working computer and WC setup.

Also, I ran some vinegar through the old pump and I think I got it working again. Dunno what I'm gonna do with it but at least it works now.


Dateranoth

Just wanted to update this log. I purchased the newest 8800GTX Uni-Sink when it came out, and have just recently found the time to install it on my GTX. I had to purchase 4 extra screws to make it compatible with my MCW60. With 4 M2x20mm screws ( with Uni-Sink included M2 nuts screwed all the way up to the heasd of the screws ) the MCW60 makes a perfect fit into the new Uni-Sink using the Swiftech provided springs and spacers.

Installed Uni-Sink ( Sorry no out of case pictures, forgot to take them )
http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/849...nisink1ps9.jpg

Closeup of Screws used to Mount MCW60:
http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/495...nisink2jc2.jpg


http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/507...nisink3ix9.jpg

Dateranoth

Looks really nice.
Though I am not a huge fan of the radiator on top, I like your setup!

Thanks. I've been wanting to build something around it, but I don't have the resources to do so where I'm currently living. So, I've been thinking that some sort of shrowd ( filters maybe? ) to put over the Rad would make it a little more pleasing to the eye.

Dateranoth

Looks very nice!
Great job mate :up:

Interesting mount for your MCW60 to Uni-sink. Good job.

Here is mine:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...hlight=unisink

Maybe I did it the hard way by drilling out the four corners to get the MCW60 hardware to work.

So you used four new M2x20 screws and threaded them into the tapped nut on the unisink? Or did you go all the way through to the back of the graphics card?

Yeah, I threaded them into the unisink. On the back side I used the Uni-Sink provided M2 screws with springs to tighten the Uni-sink around the core. I was going to drill through myself, but I decided to purchase the other size screws instead. For resale value mainly. I bought two lengths, 16mm and 20mm . The 16s were too short, and it just so happened that the 20 mm, with the M2 nuts that came with the Uni-Sink screwed on them worked perfectly. Even with the other screw in place from the back side, I still managed a great fit without cutting the 20mm screws at all.

Picture of BackSide of 8800GTX showing M2 screws holding on Uni-Sink around core.

http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/3280/gpubackdj1.jpg

Dateranoth

P.S.
And on a side note, I have been able to increase the memory clock with this new Uni-Sink as compared to my old one. But, I've only done a few tests and they've shown not by much. However, I still like this design far more than the old one. It requires far less modification than the old one ( if you look back at how I did the original one you'll see why ). Not to mention the shader core is much cooler now.

D

Thank you for the detailed response. I now wish I would have thought of your method. Live and learn.

So thats after 8 months use you have that degree of plasticiser leech and tube opacity?

Well, its not as bad as it looks in that other picture. Though it is pretty bad. The reflection of the camera's flash makes it look worse than it is.

I have to say that it is darker than I would like and a far sight from clear.

Here's a picture with just ambient light without the flash so you can see what it really looks like:

http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/5521/leechiu8.jpg

But look at it when I first put it together.. *sigh*

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/1...ishedloop4.jpg

Lol, you had to mention it. Wasn't bothering me before as I don't have a window on my case and I keep it closed... But now, what to do what to do.

What can average leech be expected to look like for 8 months?

Dateranoth

You should see the loop I've had running since about April 07 without changing the water. It looks like I'm running milk in the loop the 'plasticizer leech' is so bad. It still works though, and I've been too lazy to change it.

That case just looks inexpensive to me. I'm thoroughly surprized when I built my loop, after 2 months it was really murky, then I changed the tubing and put new liquid in it and its been clear since then, over 3 months now.

I think it was rad flux, thats what it was, not plasticizer whatever you call it, maybe thats what you have?

I don't know. It could be rad flux, but I cleaned the rad pretty thoroughly before I put it in the loop.

Whatcha mean the case looks inexpensive? Nice way of saying cheap ;)? It certainly isn't meant for water cooling, but I like the looks on the outside so I didn't want to change it. In the future, if I do two loops I'm sure I'll upgrade the case then.

However, for now, I'm not really concerned with the leech. I don't have any lights in the case, and not even a window to see in. So, I guess I'll leave it be for now.

Dateranoth

Is that masterkleer tubing your using or tygon?

BTW, in that first pic I see two different sets of corsair memory, whats the silver memory kit?

Its Tygon. And the memory is exactly the same stuff. Corsair TWIN2X2048-6400C4 . I had a set die on me and when I RMAd it they sent me the RAM back with the Dual-path heat exchange on it.

As a matter of fact, they sent me 3 shipments before I got a working one, and all where the silver kind. Either they were out of the standard kind or they don't make it anymore. The other thing I noticed with this memory is it isn't detected as SLI-Ready by my board. I have to manually adjust the voltage and timings. Otherwise, it works the exact same.

Dateranoth

ok, thanks man!

Been a long time since I've posted anything here. Haven't really changed any water cooling components in years. I'm still getting life out of the old stuff. Which is why I love water cooling in the first place.

Quick update. I installed a new 680 GTX SC+ and had to do some modification to get my MCW60 to fit the stock heat spreader. Little bit of work, but worth it for this lovely block to keep on kicking for me.

It didn't go as easy as I could have hoped. Had to do some modifications of the card to get the water block to fit.

Pulled the 480GTX:
http://photo.dateranoth.com/d/2631-2/IMG_0183.JPG

Had to pull out all my bags of tricks:
http://photo.dateranoth.com/d/2607-2/IMG_0184.JPG

I thought these tabs were the only thing in the way. Ground them down:
http://photo.dateranoth.com/d/2637-2/IMG_0181.JPG

http://photo.dateranoth.com/d/2641-2/IMG_0182.JPG

Installed everything. Looked and felt like everything was making contact:
http://photo.dateranoth.com/d/2611-2/IMG_0185.JPG

This wasn't the case. It must have had just a tiny gap. My temps were just about the same as on air. In other words. Complete failure.

Back to the Dremel board:
http://photo.dateranoth.com/d/2619-2/IMG_0212.JPG

With a little, lot? more modification I made some clearance:
http://photo.dateranoth.com/d/2615-2/IMG_0211.JPG

This time I was confident that it was making full contact. Here she is installed and looking pretty:
http://photo.dateranoth.com/d/2623-2/IMG_0213.JPG

33 Degree Celsius Idle and 53 Degree Celsius Load with a 200Mhz over clock confirmed everything was finally seated properly. Woohoo!