Tested the rumor that you ONLY need to connect ONE bridge to unlock the 2200.
The rumor is true, the rumor is true.
:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:
I connected only the 5th bridge on L3 and have ALL multipliers from 12.5 downward!!!
Printable View
Tested the rumor that you ONLY need to connect ONE bridge to unlock the 2200.
The rumor is true, the rumor is true.
:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:
I connected only the 5th bridge on L3 and have ALL multipliers from 12.5 downward!!!
You DON'T even have to fill the pit!!!!
Just conduct/paint a bridge around it!!!!!!!!
Yes:banana:
Now if your CPU dies it is a lot easier to remove the paint gently and no one will probably notice, therefore your warranty is a little more secure!:toast:
omg that is sweet! Very sweet!
thats kool.....
man amd really made it easy this time didnt they..
i love AMD! ehheh
Excellent news Deerhunter indeed:)
What did the KX7 boot up as on the first boot?? I'm just curious...as Frank's method just turned it into a 1700+ and an 11x multiplier. Let me know :)
Randi:D
It booted at multiplier 5.5!
5.5 X 100 = 550 MHz
Hey Ran, did you ever get a chance to try the older BIOS and verify stability increase, if any as Opp indicated?
edited - Never mind I tested the old BIOS, bmarks & stability are better with latest BIOS, as it should be!
GJ DeerHunter! We've been discussing just the Hi/Lo bit bridge.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...6996#post16996
Well done, good to know you can just paint around the bridge :D. Well done.
Can anyone else verify this??
Weirder things have happened than just one person getting a lucky cpu.
When I get my new Tbred I'll give it a shot.
Brothermod et al,
It's not a lucky cpu, it's the same kind of a "workaround" a bios that's not able to reset the Enabled HI 8X Bit Value to LO that pcstats.com discovered when they reversed the Palomino L10 bridge pair from open/closed to closed/open to Enable 5X thru 12.5X Multipliers on Palomino. The rightmost Tbred L3 controls its 8X Bit Value the same way the Palomino L10 "pair" controlled its
8X.
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm link to Tbred and palomino decoding articles to understand circuits.
But basically the L10 "pair" simulates a 3pin/jumper set, while the singlr L3 simulates a 2pin/jumper set...both can set/reset HI/LO signals.
John C.
Kinda nice smiley face!
Sounds excellent. Do you think you could post exact directions on how to do this for those of us who have no clue. Eheh. I've never done any modding or unlocking of any sort.... so I have no clue as to how this works or what I have to do... I should be getting a 2200+ soon w/ a KX7-333R so I'm gonna need to do this...
All you need to do is buy a conductive pen and do what is pictured. Just don't get any conductive pen in the little cut line.Quote:
Originally posted by Svenn
Sounds excellent. Do you think you could post exact directions on how to do this for those of us who have no clue. Eheh. I've never done any modding or unlocking of any sort.... so I have no clue as to how this works or what I have to do... I should be getting a 2200+ soon w/ a KX7-333R so I'm gonna need to do this...
Well, how does a conductive pen work? I'm a total newb when it comes to this....
Had to post at 5.5X if it was going to post at all, here's why. Default Tbred 2200 = 13.5X Remapped from 10.5X Enabled /Set HI = .5X + 2X + 8X Bit Value bridges open. Closing the 8X bridge leaves just the .5X + 2X bridges open/HI Enabling 2.5X which Remaps to 5.5X.Quote:
Originally posted by MrIcee
Excellent news Deerhunter indeed:)
What did the KX7 boot up as on the first boot?? I'm just curious...as Frank's method just turned it into a 1700+ and an 11x multiplier. Let me know :)
Randi:D
When Frank closed all L3 bridges so that all were then = LO, total Enabled/HI = 0X which remaps to 11X, which he got.
The Remapping Algorithms and Bit Values are at
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm link to Tbred or Palomino decoding articles. Knowing the Bit Values for each bridge and the Remapping Algorithms lets one easily decode what will happen when the L3 bridges' open/closed pattern changes...not as easily done with just Table of open/closed settings.
John C.
(Spent 36 years in Schenectady area).
Thanks candjac for the confirmation link!Quote:
Originally posted by candjac
The Remapping Algorithms and Bit Values are at
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm link to Tbred or Palomino decoding articles. Knowing the Bit Values for each bridge and the Remapping Algorithms lets one easily decode what will happen when the L3 bridges' open/closed pattern changes...not as easily done with just Table of open/closed settings.
John C.
(Spent 36 years in Schenectady area).
Although ocing is an art, I doubt many of us could spell Algorithm!
If I was a mod I'd make this a sticky.
I think I can finally see the light!
:banana:
We care! It,s done. What Light?
The beautiful blue light in your eyes!Quote:
Originally posted by Hardass
We care! It,s done. What Light?
Thank you sir!:toast:
Thank you for joining Xtreme and sharing the wealth.:toast:
Deerhunter and Hardass,
Credit to Deerhunter and xtremesystems.org + links + pic of the 1 L3 mod by Deerhunter at
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm link to Tbred decoding article...might be a few hours as ISP accidently locked us out of our .htm folders, but says he's working on it....keep trying.
We always credit, this is not an ego trip and we are not alone, help always needed, welcome and appreciated. In fact we're still running a K6-3+ 450 at 616Mhz. Do the decoding from early pics, get confirmation from various correspondents on the web like Deer hunter. Then sometimes buy a chip and confirm with multimeter tracing of circuits connected to socket pins and bridges, ground pins and Vcore pins. Then give the chip away to family. May build a Clawhammer system this fall.
Thanks to all, John C.
This new method makes it really easy to clean up if an RMA is necessary! Will this new method work on the 2400+ do ya think?
The new method has me almost wanting a Tbred, xgman :) You are right.....much easier to clean up if RMA is needed ;)
All else equal...it should, meaning if inability of mobo/bios to reset the 8X Bit Value from HI to LO is the "only" problem. And we know that higher speed Tbreds will continue to have 8X Bit Value HI, 5th L3 bridge open. But consider also that at some point 12.5X max Multiplier may not be enough, ie, might need 13X. Then need to have bios set 5X with 5th L3 "open", ( IF system posts at all with open L3),...gets a bit messy and wonder what happens to system timings??Quote:
Originally posted by xgman
Will this new method work on the 2400+ do ya think?
John C.
Hmm, since I'm about to order a new XP, I might get a Tbred then, I should be able to connect 1 bridge... I hope :D
How does it OC?
Has anyone tested the pencil trick? If it works, can someone explain it to me? If not, where can I buy a conductive pen?
Here is what I use.
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?hand...hby=PartNumber
Many people use the goop in the rear window defroster kit from auto parts stores with success.
At this site Menardsguy said that he got a pencil to work. I don't know if anyone else has verified it.
http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showth...0&pagenumber=2
Are you saying they didn't unlock it before they sent it to you?
Gee, I thought these guys were cool. But then again they probably wanted you to have the warranty or, learn how to unlock it yourself!
Hey, dunno yet Deerhunter, don't have it. I told them to take the time sending it since I won't have anything to put it in to right away. If they unlocked it, well then, excellent :D
I didn't read what you all wrote(maybe some1 already posted that), but this is a new way to unlock your t-bred, look Here
looks nice and easy that tuxx just wish i could get my mitts on one to do it with
I need some clarification here, closing the #5 L3 bridge unlocks the multipliers 12.5 and below, does that mean there is some other Mod necessary to get the 13 and above multipliers to function, or are those multiplier limitations a MB problem?
The reason I ask is I am waiting for ABIT to send me back my KX7 fixed to support the XP2200+, if I close the #5 L3 bridge, will I lose the ability to use the default multiplier?
Thanks
Very good questions. Right now it seems that the #5 Bit Value setting would need to be toggled with a manual mod in order to get the full Multiplier range from 5X thru 18X. We've posted some suggestions in other thread, think it's "Unlock your 2100 without cutting bridges". And yes, looks like a mobo/bios problem but why and how is unknown.Quote:
Originally posted by Keeper
I need some clarification here, closing the #5 L3 bridge unlocks the multipliers 12.5 and below, does that mean there is some other Mod necessary to get the 13 and above multipliers to function, or are those multiplier limitations a MB problem?
The reason I ask is I am waiting for ABIT to send me back my KX7 fixed to support the XP2200+, if I close the #5 L3 bridge, will I lose the ability to use the default multiplier?
You may be able to shed some light with your modded
KX7, we all need as much info a spossible.
John C.
I will do an update as soon as ABIT gets back from break, and sends me my MB.
Yeah, what is up with that? I asked for a crosship 2 weeks ago.Quote:
Originally posted by Keeper
I will do an update as soon as ABIT gets back from break, and sends me my MB.
When I followed up last week they told me the person I need to talk to was on vacation. They finally agreed to push through my request and said it is going to take longer to test the mobo for AMD 2200 compatibility. Has anyone gotten a KX7 with the T-bred compatibility mod, Randy, anyone?
I'm waiting for the same info. I've got a 14-day window before my Newegg RMA number disintegrates! My AT7 has a bad cmos battery retention clip, so it's going back anyway, but I'd like to get one in return that has the Tbred issue resolved.
From what I'm reading, I'm lucky to be dealing with Newegg rather that direct with Abit!
Meanwhile, I'm running my locked Tbred 2200+ on a borrowed Shuttle AK35GT2R on air with only the FSB tweaked - rock stable at FSB 145 for 1.95 Ghz - without really trying! CPU temps with Thermalright AX-7 and Vantec Tornado (LOUD!) run 3 to 4 degrees above system temp, right around 39 degrees while running SETI. Highest I've seen is 41, but I'm in sunny Florida, and I like to keep the A/C bill within reason...Really not to shabby, but I can't wait to unlock it and really get to work!!
Donna e-mailed me saying they could fix both KR7A and the KX7, I sent them the KX7 first, but haven't heard from them since, but then they have had mine only a week. I was tempted to cross ship, glad I didn't now.
That is sweet. How did it feel when you booted over 2 Gigs a couple times just to be there?;)Quote:
Originally posted by prsinger
rock stable at FSB 145 for 1.95 Ghz - without really trying! CPU temps with Thermalright AX-7 and Vantec Tornado (LOUD!) run 3 to 4 degrees above system temp, right around 39 degrees while running SETI.
Hi Deerhunter!
I felt the earth move!!
To paraphrase what someone said earler in this or another thread, I've now got The Sickness! Can H2O be far behind?
Hi Keeper,
Best of luck on your Abit fix. I'm sure a lot of us are eager to learn how it turns out. I just sent the following to NewEgg:
"Thank you for the RMA approval. I intended to order another Abit AT7, but I don't know if you have the new revision that fully supports the Athlon Thoroughbred 2200+ in stock yet. As you may know, neither the AT7's or KX7's will boot with the 2200+ when this CPU is in its stock (locked) condition - regardless of the bios version. There is apparently a new revision of the AT7, which is referred to as Rev. 1.2 according to various internet sources, which corrects this problem and allows the stock XP 2200+ to boot and be properly recognized. Do you have any further information on this? If I place a new order for an AT7 do you know if I will receive the same exact handicapped motherboard, or one that will work properly with the AMD 2200+ I purchased from NewEgg in my original order?
Thanks for your help! Because I need to keep this computer operational (I'm running it temporarily with a processor it will recognize), I'll wait for your reply and the arrival of a replacement motherboard before I return this one."
I'll report back to y'all when I get a response.
prsinger,
It would be nice if they (Newegg) have the the 2200+ uped stocked, you may get yours before me or deerhunter. I am tempted to order an Epox, but I really want the fixed ABIT. Good thing for me my old rig is a KR7A-R with an XP1900+ it is locked and I can't get it to run stable faster than 1776 with air, but thats with a gig of ram too. It would do 1820 with 512. Deerhunter, hope they get yours out soon, I wanted to test mine with a stock 2200+, but it will be unlocked by the time mine gets here at this rate.
My KX7 is due in tomorrow. My case is due in next Monday. My waterblock was just shipped from Australia yesterday... I have everything else. I may pick up a hs/fan to throw on temporarily until the waterblock arrives so I can test out the KX7 with the 2200+. I'll let you guys know when I get the chance.
Hey Great News from Abit.
Donna is back from vacation and said my T-bred compatible KX7 will be UPSd today. She will email the UPS tracking number tonight! Lets see, California to Pennsylvania. Hmmm, I'm thinking next Monday? Friday would be optimistic. Hell, thinking it will work is being optimistic!
Guess they got busy, just got the news that mine shipped today too, KX73RTHE001179 KX7-333R 7/23/2002. I won't hold my breath for Friday either, but I am glad they shipped.
No word from Newegg on my AT7 RMA...they're probably checking their stock to see if they're all the same or if some are Rev. 1.2 (if it truly exists...). Bet they're as much in the dark as I am! I sure hope Abit starts shipping AT7's/KX7's which are from-the-factory T-bred compatible! If I don't hear from Newegg soon I guess I'll be contacting Abit for the RMA and T-bred fix.
BTW, anybody else out there with an AT7 that has the same problem I have with the CMOS battery retention clip? It was making poor contact with the battery, causing loss of bios settings every time I unplugged to change cards, etc. I bent it some to get better contact, but it's still borderline.
Would this also work on a XP 2000?
Got my "fixed" KX7 from ABIT, and the XP2200+ I have, well I unlocked it while I was waiting, anyway I set it up 166FSB X 11 and booted it up, runs fine. But it will not boot on default, oh well, I guess I won't know if it would work with the OEM T-bred now. In any case I have lots of room to play now.
I've had no response to my info request from Newegg (see earlier post in this thread) so I called them today. Basically they said they have no info on AT7 revisions re: T-bred compatibility and no means of getting it! My RMA deadline is t-minus 4 days. Does anybody have a phone number at Abit USA I can call to inquire? I may have to deal directly with them rather than Newegg if I want this rectified!
RMA Request/Status Checking: rma@abit-usa.comQuote:
Originally posted by prsinger
. Does anybody have a phone number at Abit USA I can call to inquire?
Technical Support: technical@abit-usa.com
Tel: 1-510-623-0500
For Technical Support: 1-510-492-0968
Fax: 1-510-623-1092
Do your RMA by e-mail, ABIT will have you a number in about 24 hours. Donna works the phones all by herself, getting through by telephone is no fun.
Abit phone #'s...Thanks deerhunter! I appreciate it!
Keeper,
I'm sure you're right! I already have the RMA set up with Newegg, but since no one there can tell me if I'll be able to get a revised AT7 in return, or the same exact board with the same exact compatibility issue, I wanted to call Abit first and see if the new revision was "in the pipe". My guess is not, so I'll proably have to RMA with Abit diectly if I want the fix. If this alone was the problem I wouldn't bother because I'm gonna unlock the T-bred anyway, but the loose battery retention clip just doesn't cut it.
prsinger
My experience with ABIT is you never get back the same MB, at least with my two RMA’s that was the case. When listing problems with the MB include every complaint, ABIT techs test the board for every problem you list before returning a product. You may or may not necessarily get back the same version, but your complaints should be covered. If per say, one doesn’t mention the board having an XP2200+ issue, the board returned to you would not necessarily have been tested for that issue. It would be a good move to list your configuration as completely as possible so you don’t have to do another RMA. RMA’ing your board to ABIT you can be assured you will not have a loose battery retention clip with the board you get back.
I finally got mine from Abit today. It actually booted with my re-locked T-bred!
deerhunter,
What serial # did your board have on it? This board looks like a brand new one KX73RTHE001179.
I am stuck with air for now, I am running @1921 166 X 11.5 with 1 gig Atlas 2700ddr 2 X 512. My temps are 45c on the CPU under load and 34c in the case, in the desert. This is the first time I have used an unlocked CPU, so I am a little timid to push it to hard. How warm are the T-breds safe to run?
i also have an abit kx7-333r and a locked 2200xp cpu . It won't start with it in it. Are you saying the only way to fix the problem is to unlock it? Or could i just put in an old cpu, update the bios, and it should be fine?
on abit's site there is a new bios for the mother board it says.
kx79k.exe Bios Issue Date: 2002/06/10
BIOS ID: 9K
Support new 0.13micron process AthlonXP CPU-Throughbred.
HPT 372 BIOS Version 2.31. The RAID function is for KX7-333R only. This BIOS version is also for non RAID boards and HPT BIOS will be automatically disabled while RAID controller chip not detected.
BIOS Compile Date: 6/05/2002
do you think if i put in the cpu from my old computer (thunderbird 750), and use it to get the comp running and update the bios, that once the bios is updated the new cpu should work?
Some of the earlier KX7 MB will not support the XP2200+ CPU. You will need to do an RMA to ABIT for a hardware fix to support the T-bred. The BIOS upgrade will not work. You can however close the #5 L3 (thanks Deerhunter) Bridge and use a lower multiplier to save yourself the hassle of an RMA. I would update the BIOS before doing the RMA, but it may or may not help. I hope that's alll your MB needs, it didn't work for me.
how exaclty would i do an rma to abit?
http://www.abitusa-rma.com/
Click on RMA Status
END User
Request RMA
I Accept
Fill out form;
Submit
They will e-mail they reveived and give you notice you will receive another e-mail with the RMA #.
on the rma when is says defect phenomenon, do i just write it will not boot up with an amd 2200 xp cpu?
Write "does not support the AMD XP2200+ CPU"
about how long did it take to get you board back? this is for anyone who rma'ed it.
Mine took 14 days from sent to received.
I think you mean L3 bridge!:stick:Quote:
Originally posted by Keeper
You can however close the #5 L2 Bridge and use a lower multiplier to save yourself the hassle of an RMA.
You are SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO right, I will edit that ASAP.
Thanks for catching that before someone didn't.
Which cooling solution for these 2200+ oc ?
tested today by me n majormav, and can confirm this method works. tested using TB2200+ and Epox 8KHA+ (of all the boards to use!!)
toggling 13x above and 13x bwelow can be done easily as long aws a skilled solderer does the mod... just need a 2 way toggle switch and solder each wire to either side of the L3 bridge in question. For XP2100 some VERY fine wire (majormav knows the stuff, it's what he used for his kx7 vmods) and the same switch and attach the wire to the two pins on the base of the cpu. I s'pose I could throw a kit together, but as of monday we'll be selling preunlocked 2100 & 2200 chips thru our site for all those interested.
Hi Marci,Quote:
Originally posted by Marci
toggling 13x above and 13x bwelow can be done easily as long aws a skilled solderer does the mod... just need a 2 way toggle switch and solder each wire to either side of the L3 bridge in question.
Toggling the L3 mod sounds great, but could you also try just one wire soldered from backside of mobo Socket A pin = AJ27. Then run the wire thru a switch to a grounded 100 ohm resistor...switch or jumper mounted on external case. Does the same as soldering around the L3 dots, but seems it should be easier...only 1 solder op to an existing lump of solder already on the socket. Should also work on XP2100's as well since their L10 bridges are also set in default HI mode/ ie 13X, and its signal bus also connects to the same AJ27 pin/socket. Switch open = HI Multiplier range 13X and up, switch closed = 5X thru 12.5X range.
In fact this mod could best be done before any new mobo is installed, then just set switch to suit "any" cpu that's installed...low XP, XP2100 or Tbred 2200.
Check it out with majormav????
John C.
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm Palomino article has pic of backside of cpu to locate AJ27
Hi candjac,
Your suggestion sounds great, and I'll be watching to see what the other experts think. A simple switch mounted on the back of the case would be real convenient, while maintaining your CPU warranty!
I looked at the link, and found the pic I think is the one you referred to, but I didn't know enough about the layout to figure out which of the highlighted pins is AJ27. I couldn't interpret how the grid layout was labled. It doesn't seem to be a simple "X,Y" = "AJ,27" matrix, if you know what I mean. Can you help identify AJ27 in the photo? Thanks!
Paul
Hi Paul,Quote:
Originally posted by prsinger
Hi candjac,
Your suggestion sounds great, and I'll be watching to see what the other experts think. A simple switch mounted on the back of the case would be real convenient, while maintaining your CPU warranty!
I looked at the link, and found the pic I think is the one you referred to, but I didn't know enough about the layout to figure out which of the highlighted pins is AJ27. I couldn't interpret how the grid layout was labled. It doesn't seem to be a simple "X,Y" = "AJ,27" matrix, if you know what I mean. Can you help identify AJ27 in the photo? Thanks! Paul
Grid socket/pin grid is "alpha" from A thru AN Bottom to Top, and "numeric" from 1 thru 37 Left to Right. You can see "occassional" guidance letters and numbers in white along borders that reflect that alpha-numeric grid. Note that I, O, and AI rows are omitted/do not exist (probably cause I and O look too much like numbers one and zero). Also note that rows AA, AB, AC etc follow row Z.
Column 27 is prominently labeled, (as are 1 and 37), and so socket/pin AJ27 is in the 5th row down from the top (AN, AM, AL, AK, AJ), or the third "green" socket/pin from the top.
Note also that pins are are "staggered", ie, row Y has pins 1, 3, 5, 7. while next row Z has pins 2, 4, 6, 8.
Think that should it clear enough to locate "any socket/pin".
Check out the Tbred article as well, it has Tbred's circuit diagrams for Multiplier signals. So you can confirm that this "switched AJ27 wire to ground thru resistor" mod does exactly the same as closing the 5th L3 bridge, or soldering a switch to the L3 bridge's "dots".
Of course the L1s must be closed for this to work, but that is no problem since most if not all oc'ers normally close the L1s else they couldn't Manipulate the Multiplier from mobo/bios.
John C.
quick question,
Lets, say the processor is not unlocked, how much can the xp2200+ be overclocked too without having to unlock it? what multipler and frequency should one use?
If so, what should I set the multiplier and frequencys too, to get good performance, I have a coolermaster cpu fan, and an additional 3 fans in the case, would I need more?
i rmaed my kx7 to abit a while ago , the rma status page said they got it august 6, anyone have any idea how long it will take till I get a motherboard back from them? How long does it usually take and is there someone i can email to find out how far along it is in the rma queue?
Babblin Joe,
Mine took about 3 weeks. The only link I could find on the Abit site just told when it was recieved and when it was shipped. That was under the RMA status link. I was happy with the replacement..not the same board, but in perfect shape.
Just a few questions i noticed that i might be able to help with.
The pencil trick is at the moment, not working on my t-bred, i've since got some electrolube to try that but due to waterblock is a hassel so am waiting as i need to take it all apart this week for other reasons.
As for how hot can they run. Well my waterblock is screwed and defo not making great contact, big scratch down the middle of contact area, and at the mo my epox is reading from on board diode a temp of 60C. i think the diff between socket thermistor and real readings have increased due to the smaller area and etc,etc. I've hit 75C at full stability at around 2.15Ghz, 2.1v on this board.
I had no probs at those temps.
So you guys should have some leway with your temps but remember that its jsut the insocket thermistor, some people think the diff between that and the real temp is up to as much as 15-20C now. So watch out.
This monday/tuesday i'm realpping waterblock, unlocking chip, reformatting, new bios testing and some other enhancing watercooling stuff. I will post exactly how high i can get this chip, at what voltage and how hot it will run stable at. Also have a digidoc coming this week so will set it up to read at the same position as socket thermistor, and glue one to chip. Then i can tell you the diff between the readings.
Question for Abit KG7 and probably others from Abit
Last year I bought this KG7 board together with a Duron 800 (@ 7*133 at this time). It was the cheapest processor I could find at that time. Already back then, I had in mind to wait for the last socket A processor to come out to do an upgrade.
From what I've been reading, this will be the XP2100+
Though xp2200,2400 and 2600 are still SocketA, they will not work on this (and many boards) without a fix from Abit. I wanted to wait for the xp2600+ since the xp2700+ will be on 166Mhz bus speed.
I'm not a FSB overclocker so I don't like the L3 #5 mod on the chip as it will give me only acces to 12.5X multiplier (beiing only 1666.666Mhz).
I've read the pages from Candjac (very interesting indeed)
So far for the story. Now here's my question
As I don't like to send the board back (it will probably take 2 months out here to get it back), I was wondering if there's additional info on the L1 bridges.
My perception is that when you close the L1 bridges, you get acces to the multiplier and Vcore settings in the BIOS.
When you do a bad job on these L1 bridges, (f.i. one not properly connected), you get acces to some, not all multipliers.
So I figure out the following:
If you close all but one L1 bridges, you could get the bios to reset the 0.5x/1x/2x and 4x selection but the bios would leave the 8x untouched. This way I figured it could be possible to control in fact the above 13x mulipliers.
Could this by any chance be possible ??
many thanks to all suggestions
Well, finally got my t-bred unlocked, going well. The electrolube is working fine now and have 12.5 and below. Time for some benching methinks.
I have a possibly stupid question.
I'm reading that the system will not boot with a T-bred 2200+ and a KX7-333. I just bought both from NewEgg.com and my system WILL boot, but will not allow me to change the SoftMenu settings to 2200+. Well, I can set it, and it will boot up, but it will lock up once the computer gets to the "Welcome" screen in WinXP.
I was able to successfully install WinXP while having the CPU set to 1500+ in the BIOS.
So, I assume I have the Rev1.0 problem but wanted clarification. Will the system still allow booting if set to 2200+ IF I have Rev1.0? This KX7-333 also has BIOS version 9K.
I RMA'd the motherboard through Newegg and I'm wondering if I should do the CPU as well, as the system WILL boot up, just not if set to 2200+ in the BIOS.
Thank you for any assistance you can offer in advance,
Ed
PS. If there's any additional information that I can give to clarify, please let me know.
Very interesting thread. Here are responses from Abit regarding my inquiry about a so-called board mod being done to the Kr7A raid boards to get the Tbred to work. My first letter asked what specifics there were for the mod and whether the Palomino 2100+ was the last cpu that would work:
The response from Abit:
Subject:
Re: Kr7a raid v. 1.0
Date:
Wed, 2 Oct 2002 12:06:46 -0700
From:
"JEFF WONG" <jeff@abit-usa.com>
To:
<XXXXXXXX>
References:
1
Dear Customer,
KR7A will not work with Athlon 2200+
we are not providing upgrades
Yes it will support 2100 + CPU with 9N BIOS.
Thank you very much.
Sincerely,
Jeff Wong
I then wrote back as follows:
Dear Mr. Wong:
Thank you for your reply. I have the Kr7a-Raid board verson 1.0. I was told to
RMA the board to Abit because it will not work with the Tbred xp2200+ and
higher. I have been given an RMA number, but if I understand your message, I
should not send the board in? Do they replace the Kr7a-Raid with a newer
version or a different board, such as the Kr7a-Raid 133? Does the KR7A-Raid 133
work with the Tbreds? My reason for asking is that many of us with the Kr7A
Raid have been told to mail the boards into RMA for "modification". Were you
aware of this?
Thank you,
I then got this response:
The reason I am not recommending the upgrade is because there is a $25.00
charge to the upgrade
and it only upgrade you to use 2200+ CPU and not any future CPU such as 2400
or 2600.
It is your choice to upgrade or not.
Thank you
Jeff
I have now dashed off this letter:
Thank you again. If I want to run the XP Tbreds, which of your motherboards will
support these cpus. You can understand I am disappointed in the lack of ability
to upgrade this fairly new mobo, and I know you are aware that the Abit download
site lists Bios 9N as supporting XP2200+ cpus in the Kr7A and Kr7A raid. Why is
this?
If I get a response I will post it!
Keep on top of them Tinkerer. I paid the $25 fee and had mine modded for the 2200. Although I had modded my CPU to do some overclocking, I put it back to its original state. I popped this T-bred in my old ECS K7S5A and it's BIOS worked fine with AMD specs. Too bad Abit can't comply with AMD specs. Maybe they will someday. :confused:Quote:
Originally posted by The Tinkerer
If I get a response I will post it!
Mr. Wong's emails seem to have some half truths and their website offerring BIOS that works with T-Breds is also misleading without mobo mods.
OK we have someone who visited our forum after my inquiries to Abit tech support. Maybe we have a friend on the inside, but here's what he said to do: Cut the L1 #4 and #3 bridges. He says it will then boot with it's fixed multiplier (which is OK if you have a board that will OC the FSB well).. He also details the board mods that will allow the Tbred to work (and may be the board mods being done by abit for 25 dollars).
suggestion 2 is to bridge L3 #5, which we already know will allow the cpu to boot but with 12.5x multiplier max, not 13 and above.
Other suggestions include removing a resistor, or removing two transistors of some type I think.
Here's the thread where this was posted. Look just above the post that I am linking you to.
http://www.amdforums.com/showthread....92#post1219292
Finally have an idea why the older Abit needed the 5th L3 or AJ27 pins "workarounds to boot.
"Tinkerer" just posted a link to amdmd thread on subject where "Andromeda" posted the following re his examination of the Abit Mobo that needed the workarounds. Andromeda said that the 1st 4 L1s connected to transistors on the mobo thru pullup resistors, but the 5th, last L1 connected to "nothing"...yes nothing!!!!!
Now in and of itself, that's not significant 'cause the 8X Bit Value "HI" signal still goes to the Multiplier module by virtue of the signal circuit on the CPU itself...ie...you don't need help from the bios to run default Multipliers...systems run with open L1s. BUT, BUT, BUT...
IF Abit made no "Hardware" provision to over-ride/reset the 5th 8X BV, THEN also it's quite reasonable to assume they made no "Software" provision for the 5th 8X BV....read " Can't cope with 13X or higher Multipliers which have the 8X BV set HI"...and that lack of sofware could relate to some vital process in the post/boot operation....Bingo?????
John C.
PS to Tinkerer...
Andromeda said he connected a 5V pullup resistor to the AJ27 pin (8X BV, 5th L3) but that it didn't work. But that "optional" HI from mobo thru closed L1 is not needed, the CPU itself sets the 8X BV HI with its own signal circuit. What's needed is abilty to reset the 8X BV LO...AND...more important, have the
mobo/bios/?Northbridge? recognize the 8X BV during post/boot however and when ever required. You might relay this info to Andromeda. Thanks.
Thanks for the info Candjac,
I want to stress the fact that I only have a Duron 800 at the moment and I really would like someone to test this with a XP2200+.
I want an XP2600+ to work on it at stock speed.
So still it's strange that when this resistor is connected to AJ27, the Duron is locked again and runs at stock speed with no multiplier control although unlocked.
And the fact that all XP with multiplier >12.5 come with closed L1 bridges (so far), makes me believe strongly that my future XP2600+ will work this way. If of course, these XP's ship with L1 bridges open, my theory goes down the drain......
this quote is coming from the XP datasheet (with T-bred 681 specs)
Clock Multiplier
Selection (FID[3:0])
The chipset samples the FID[3:0] signals in a chipset-specific
manner from the processor and uses this information to
determine the correct serial initialization packet (SIP). The
chipset then sends the SIP information to the processor for
configuration of the AMD Athlon system bus for the clock
multiplier that determines the processor frequency indicated
by the FID[3:0] code. The SIP is sent to the processor using the
SIP protocol. This protocol uses the PROCRDY, CONNECT, and
CLKFWDRST signals, that are synchronous to SYSCLK.
For more information about FID[3:0], see ¡°FID[3:0] Pins¡± on
page 66.
Serial Initialization Packet (SIP) Protocol. Refer to AMD Athlon¢â
System Bus Specification, order# 21902 for details of the SIP
protocol.
and on page 66
FID[3:0] Pins FID[3] (Y3), FID[2] (Y1), FID[1] (W3), and FID[0] (W1) are the 4-bit processor clock-to-SYSCLK ratio.
Table 22 describes the encodings of the clock multipliers on
FID[3:0].
Table 22. FID[3:0] Clock Multiplier Encodings
FID[3:0]2 Processor Clock to SYSCLK Frequency Ratio
0000 11
0001 11.5
0010 12
0011 ¡Ã 12.5
0100 5
0101 5.5
0110 6
0111 6.5
1000 7
1001 7.5
1010 8
1011 8.5
1100 9
1101 9.5
1110 10
1111 10.5
Notes:
********1. All ratios greater than or equal to 12.5x have the same FID[3:0] code of 0011b, which causes
the SIP configuration for all ratios of 12.5x or greater to be the same.*********
So I think the bios does not need to know the 8X value bit.
Probably bios is only capable of controlling multipliers until 12.5. From there, the XP uses a logic coming from the processor itself, but it will need to know if the 8x value bit is high(so it can use it's own logic) or if it's low (so it can use normal logic, which refers to the 5th L3 mod)
Please give this one a good read..
and tanks
Sorry, forgot to mention, I have a KG7 MB
The XP2400 L1 bridges are all closed.:D
4th and 5th L3s are cut.
We are familiar with the Northbridge's involvement during the post/boot process, and believe that it may be part of the problem, if not all of the problem. The Northbridge sends data to cpu ( and system??) which probably sets "timings/wait states/similar" and if those are not co-ordinated with actual clocking/s then can see where systems might just "lockup".Quote:
Originally posted by andromeda
Thanks for the info Candjac,
Notes:
********1. All ratios greater than or equal to 12.5x have the same FID[3:0] code of 0011b, which causes
the SIP configuration for all ratios of 12.5x or greater to be the same.*********
So I think the bios does not need to know the 8X value bit.
Probably bios is only capable of controlling multipliers until 12.5. From there, the XP uses a logic coming from the processor itself, but it will need to know if the 8x value bit is high(so it can use it's own logic) or if it's low (so it can use normal logic, which refers to the 5th L3 mod)
Please give this one a good read..
and tanks
Yes bios may only have reset capability thru 12.5X, but suppose Northbridge reads 13X as 5X because it's only reading the 1st 4 bits. Then suppose the timings it sends are way off and won't allow the 13X cpu to run??
We remember back in early Duron era when you had to mod the L6 (Multiplier "ID") bridges to "match or greater" what you had modded the L3/L4s to else the system would not post/boot. Now there are no bridges equiv to those L6s, we believe ot's done internally within the cpu...'cause the FID[3:0] pins are still there as are the references to that function during post/boot as you posted. Now add in some commuinications snafu between AMD and mobo/bios/Northbridge re specs.
Problem is "we all" just don't know how the bios and Northbridge talk to each other and how they process the signals from cpu. Just how does the Northbridge "know" to send 12.5X data for 13X and up when it only reads 4 bits which translate to 12.5X max??? Like it sees a 13X cpu as 5X, but the datasheet says it's going to send 12.5X data. Must be another piece of info to discriminate between 5X and 13X, but what???Maybe something as simple as the old read 5X Tbird as 14X...but now "reversed, to read 5X as 13X"???? But did mobo/bios/Northbridge mfrs get the message???
See our latest thread re "Won't change your life"...your post were key to anaysis.
Glad to see some new mobo/s handling 13X and up.
John C.
Right Dude, those L3 bridges control 4X and 8X Bit Values, enabled when "open", = 12X which is remapped to 15X which is default Multiplier for the 2400. Thanks for the check.Quote:
Originally posted by TheDude
The XP2400 L1 bridges are all closed.:D
4th and 5th L3s are cut.
Hi Candjac,
do you have any idea about 2700+ unlocking? your quick response will be highly appreciated.
No, have not seen any pics to verify if L1s are closed like all other to-date Tbreds. Then there's the issue whether older mobos will have problems like with the 2200s which needed the 5th L3 to be closed...esp note since the 2700 seems to be 13X166MHz...where 13x has that 5th signal circuit set HI just like the 13.5X 2200. We'd use newer mobo like the KD7 reported to have no problems booting/running Tbreds.Quote:
Originally posted by QuadDamage
Hi Candjac,
do you have any idea about 2700+ unlocking? your quick response will be highly appreciated.
John C.
ok, thanks for input. i'll try to see now whether L1 bridges are closed. i'll be back soon.
it looks like L1 bridges are not connected. in fact it looks very much the same as 2200+. btw, default multiplier is 13x (13x166)
http://www.theforumisdown.com/upload...700bridges.jpg
EDIT click on the image i posted copy it and paste into new browser window. sorry my image host doesn't work here.
L1 bridges are closed, the connection between the "dots" is made below the surface...sopen bridges are distinguished by the "laser burn marks" seen on other bridges like the Multiplier L3s.Quote:
Originally posted by QuadDamage
it looks like L1 bridges are not connected. in fact it looks very much the same as 2200+. btw, default multiplier is 13x (13x166)
EDIT click on the image i posted copy it and paste into new browser window. sorry my image host doesn't work here.
Also re the Multiplier, the 3rd L3, 2X signal circuit, and 5th L3, 8X signal circuit are the only ones open/set HI by default, which makes the SUM of HIs = 10X, which is internally remapped to 13X, (AMD's Multiplier Code)...Check.
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm Multiplier Code article explains the Code in detail.
John C.
ok, i've been playing around with 2700+ in fact i'm still playing. first of all ,all the multipliers seem to work on Epox KT400 mobo. however, only 13x works on KX7-333 using 9k BIOS. i've been able to push it to well over 2.3ghz at default voltage, able to run everything but 3d mark. epox has some issues. it will post at anything from 166fsb to 200, but is unable to make it to windows. ( i tried win xp, win2k and 4 diffrent hdd's) i got it working underclocked at 149fsb - it will not post at 150.... something is wrong here. sorry for typos, i'm back to work.
So far i've seen most of the talk about the 2200+ but i'm really wanting to setup my KG7 with a 2400+. My question is does the same L3 bridge trick work on those as well ?
Greetings:)
After reading this post, I've made a jump and bought myself a 2200+.
No way to find conductive pen here, so I bought a product called Ecolit340, electrically conductive silver resin, resistivity 0.01ohm/cm, temp resist from -60°C to +145°C.
I apply it on the last L5 bridge.
My system is:
ABIT AT7 max with bios supprto for 0.13 athlon xp, 760mb samsung ddr333, gf3, Terratec dmx6fire...
After the (long) installation, thanks to the alpha8045 (:p), I boot, and the boot found a atlhon xp1500+. I go to the bios, change to 11*166, reboot, and the system won't boot no more.
Clear cmos, reboot, but still same symptom.
The only way to reset the bios was to pull off the battery.
So now, I'm with a xp2200+ working like a 2200, indeed, 13.5*133, but not working as I would like it to work, ie fsb 166.
I DO have make a clean job with the L5 bridge, so I must admit I'm lost, either my mb do not properly check the cpu multiplier when the l5 bridge is closed, either... hum... sigh, I don't know.
Previously, my atlhon tbird 1.33 was working at 1420mhz with fsb166 without pbl.
This mod was found to fix a mobo/bios issue, it is NOT a cpu unlocking problem. New mobos DO NOT NEED this mod. If your mobo is fairly new, the mod might have done bad thing instaed of good. Suggest you research or remove the mod and try again.Quote:
Originally posted by kanedazan
Greetings:)
After reading this post, I've made a jump and bought myself a 2200+.
No way to find conductive pen here, so I bought a product called Ecolit340, electrically conductive silver resin, resistivity 0.01ohm/cm, temp resist from -60°C to +145°C.
I apply it on the last L5 bridge.
My system is:
ABIT AT7 max with bios supprto for 0.13 athlon xp, 760mb samsung ddr333, gf3, Terratec dmx6fire...
After the (long) installation, thanks to the alpha8045 (:p), I boot, and the boot found a atlhon xp1500+. I go to the bios, change to 11*166, reboot, and the system won't boot no more.
Clear cmos, reboot, but still same symptom.
The only way to reset the bios was to pull off the battery.
So now, I'm with a xp2200+ working like a 2200, indeed, 13.5*133, but not working as I would like it to work, ie fsb 166.
I DO have make a clean job with the L5 bridge, so I must admit I'm lost, either my mb do not properly check the cpu multiplier when the l5 bridge is closed, either... hum... sigh, I don't know.
Previously, my atlhon tbird 1.33 was working at 1420mhz with fsb166 without pbl.
John C.
So, my AT7 mobo is rev 1.0, and I have exactly the same pbl as MrIcee described. Bios reset and detect a xp1500+, refuse to boot very often.
The joint with the 5th L3 bridge seems to not work with the resin conductive paint I used (silver), and I found a conductive ink pen but it cost 45$, and I must admit it's a bit too too much. So what must I do, buy it and hope that with this pen, the L3 trick will work, or resign myself to have an unstable system?
I got a 2100+..will it work just the same?
2100+ is the old way.. all the L1 bridges need closing (unless you have a T-Bred 2100+) I just aquired a 2400+ hope the unlocking is the same as a 2200+...
--------------------------------
got a Vapochill (Classic)
AT7 Max2 (has a CAS latencey option of 1.5!?!?!)
1GB Corsair XMS 3200 C2
GF4 Ti4600 with peltier/water
12301 3DMarks with a 1700+ at default speeds
How do I know it's a T--Bred?
The easiest way to tell would be to look at the CPU core. If the markings(stepping & whatnot) are on the actual core, its a Palomino...if the core is blank & there is a black sticker on the wafer w/ the markings, then its a Thoroughbred :)
I don't recall a sticker on the chip...I'll check when I get home from work though...what's the diff between the two anyway? Also, I see you have your 1600 running at 2024MHZ...I myself was looking at getting some sort of water cooling as well..what kind of speeds do you think I could reach with a a 2400+?
Depends on a lot of factors, maybe too many to say for sure... but it's safe to say 200 mhz gains are all most overclockers have been getting with water and the tbred cores...Quote:
Originally posted by InnocentR
I myself was looking at getting some sort of water cooling as well..what kind of speeds do you think I could reach with a a 2400+?