X2 3800 or Opteron 165?
which would be better performance wise and oveclocking
retail version...X2 3800 @ the egg = 135.00 free shipping
retail version...the opteron 165 @ the egg = 155.00 free shipping
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X2 3800 or Opteron 165?
which would be better performance wise and oveclocking
retail version...X2 3800 @ the egg = 135.00 free shipping
retail version...the opteron 165 @ the egg = 155.00 free shipping
Opty has more potential for OCing, and seems to get higher clocks more consistently
Opty
Opty
more Oc
more cache L2
Opty
Grab the Opteron for the above reasons. Additionally if you're going to use the stock cooler, the Opteron comes with a chunkier heatpipe cooler :)
Mul
Definitive opteron :) Have run a 3800+ (look at signature), but no more "seconds" ;)
should spend the extra 40 bucks and get the opty 170 because it has a multi of 10x instead of the 9x of the opty 165?
NO
specially if u have a good overclocker mobo like the dfi nf4
Opty 165 is a great chip, as long as you get a good stepping. CCBBE is usually really good. I heard that newegg was giving out good steppings lately. I have an opty 165 CCBBE 0617FPMW that I hit 3GHz with but wasn't fully stable - it wasn't crashing or anything but would fail orthos within 30 seconds.
I need better cooling I think (my CNPS9500 just didn't cut it) and a little more tweaking. It sits happily at 2.8GHz with stock voltage though :)
ok sweet thanks guys....
i just ordered an opty 165 from the egg, i wanted to get it before it went out of stock, plus it had free shipping, hopefully ill get one with good stepping.
just curious.. am i going to notice a huge difference in performance from a 754pin athlon 64 3400+ cpu that i have now? i hope i am.. im excited for dual core
i will report back on the stepping.
now its time to look for a good mobo for the opty 165...
hopefully they all wont sellout at the egg, there getting low on their stock.
lol, yes you probably will see a large difference from a 3400+ to a dual core opty.
what is the best choice for mobos?
since this will be my first time using the opteron 165, or a 939 dual core for that matter, ill be behind the ball on "know" how for setting it up and testing it. im upgrading from a 754 pin.
A8N32-SLI
i was looking at this mobo, and i know most people have alot of pros and cons for this board. but from what ive read it seems like a good board with alot of choices.
DFI ultra-d and nothing else
I like the DFI CFX3200 the best, then the SLI-DR Expert. The Asus A8n32-SLI had the highest max fsb of these 3 boards, but it also ran constantly 5 to 8 degrees hotter (celcius). The Asus also seemed very picky and neither of the DFI boards were too picky with the exception of maybe one or two settings. I had to constantly be manually changing the max async latency depending on what fsb I wanted, so you will spend alot of time figuring out what timing to set it at for which range of fsb you are trying to get to. Also you will probably have a big bios problem and not be able to upgrade the bios at all. This is a problem ASUS knows about, about half the boards are not recognized as an ASUS bios so the ASUS update utility wont let you upgrade the bios, I also had a problem using WinFlash to try and upgrade it. My personal opinion is to stay away from the ASUS, it was one of the worst boards I ever worked with. I have built systems on and worked with: a BioStar TForce 6100 (AM2), Gigabyte GA-M61PM-S2 (AM2), DFI SLI-DR Expert, DFI CFX3200, MSI K8N Diamond Plus, two of an ASUS board I cant remember the name of, and two ASUS A8N32-SLI boards, so I am not a n00b to motherboards and dont just hate ASUS for some reason.
As SaFrOuT said though, the DFI Ultra-D is supposed to be a REALLY good board too, although I have not personally worked on one. The Ultra-D is also probably the cheapest out of any of his or my suggestions.
well i went with an asus a8n32-sli board, the egg had a pretty lacking selection on other boards so i jsut went with it.
i feel confident in myself that i can get it working, idont want to overclokc a huge amount, jsut a resonable amount. if not ill just rma it and search for the dfi board becuase i cant find it anywhere.
i have a new bois for it which is 1403, saw it on the asus forum. when i get it well see if it loads.
x2 3800+ for $99 at tigerdirect
The CFX3200 in 939 socket is no longer made, you have to buy it new or used from some place like ebay. I think newegg still has the Ultra-D and SLI-DR and DR Expert though.
ok so here was i got so far from the egg.
ill be putting it in this weekend when i get the video card, should be here thursday.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/161/4...565a9d9a_b.jpg
looks like it was shipped with the 1108 bios chip.
ASUS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
why not the dfi my friend
i took off the heatpip sinks from the mobo, what a pain in the as, they put plastics caps filled with silicon to prevent u from unclipping the sping clips, to forever.
there is thermal compound but its in like a pad format, so i took it all off and lightly sanded down the back of the sinks and now im gonna appl some as5.
ill post pic tomorrow its bed time
whats your opty's stepping!?!?
Nice M/B and chip, i had the same and was able to clock my 165 to 3GIG, but thats not saying yours will do the same, it all depends on the batch number, you might even have a better clocking chip, whats the stepping of the opty you have?
The only problem with the ASUS M/B is it is volt to CPU limited inline with AMD tec, so you will only be able to pump 1.55v though it, the best M/B for the job has got to be DFI as this will allow you to set at what is reqiuerd to clock this CPU.
ah its the lcb9e. im not sure how good that is,
i heard that this is just a X2 repackaged with 1m L2 cache? is this true?
i will be installing it this weekend, ill take pics as i do it.
ok so here are some pics:
asus put some goowey dried bubblegum lookin thermal compound on the north and south bridges...
it was hard to get off, i tired to use isopropl and my peice off old credit card plastic, i got most of it of but there was still some residue.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/162/4...1eceaae6_b.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/168/4...9769515e_b.jpg
heres the thermal pad, its almsot like a mesh rubber type of material, wasnt to bad to scrap off, just wiped with isopropl to get all the glue off.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/174/4...cea1ed26_b.jpg
i put ac5 on all the mosfets and north and south bridges hopefully this will keep temps down.
anybody else do this and see any solid results?
I did and saw maybe a degree or two of difference, but it still ran consistently hotter than any of the other boards I have used, especially CPU wise.
The 100% Acetone (i.e. Nail Polish Remover) should cleanse the grease off with much ease and leave no mess. Check this out.
here are some of the pics of my opty heatsink. its a pretty good quality for stock i must say.
whats the forth wire for?
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/185/4...087f87aa_b.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/174/4...ffd37d1f_b.jpg
That looked kindof nice for stock cooling I must say... the one with the x2's literarily blow snot! But I must also say it was a lousy finish on it.. lots of scratches, what's that all about... some indonesian who REALLY hates his job? :confused:
The fourth wire is for a fourth pin... if your mb don't have the fourth pin the fan probably will only run on lowest volt, propably 7V or so... Had a fan for the hyper 48 cooler that wouldn't run at 12V, only 7.... So if your cpu-fan connecter only have 3pins, only plug in anyway, the fourth only runs on mb with PWM.... which is fourth pin..'
lot's of four pins mentioned there... sorry bout that :rolleyes:
I don't have my own, but as a guess from the colours (this is pretty much what freakBYnature said):
Red wire = 5V
Black wire = Earth / Ground / lower potential than the other two
Yellow wire = 12V
Blue wire = the one that sends pulses for RPM counts (which allows the motherboard to then use PWM accordingly to change the fan speed)
ok everything is up and running...
flashed bios to 1303 not 1405 yet
cpu runs about 34c idle i did notice a drop in temp from bios 1103 to 1303
the motherboard runs hot 33c and 34c idle...im using the fan they gave me for the heatpipes. hmm maybe i put to much as5 on the chips or maybe it jsut has to cure.
i havent really benchmarked it yet i will do that soon.
jsu a pain to install everything back.
will update as i go
34c idle is fine... if you use AS5 you will notice a drop in the following days as it takes up to 8 days for the paste to settle. The "rule" is that it has to heat up and cool down some times before it settles properly, so if you used excactly enough to make contact and not more (it takes very little) I would suggest priming up to maximum heat, then turning off your machine and letting the paste go down to complete roomtemperature. The more you do this in the first days, the quicker it settles correctly :)
33-34 for MB is not so hot. But if airflow is an issue you may try moving the cables inside your case to a corner or a side. I use these things that the cops use instead of handcuffs... Called strips here, don't know what in english (for one times sake :D)
Opteron 165是什么啊~~~~~~
你们说这些是没有意义的。。。。
I've discovered why!!! Yeah I truly did! If you set 1.35 from BIOS it will pump out an approx. 0.05~0.1V EXTRA! So the bios settings regarding vcore is wrong! If you want 1.35V you have to set 1.3 or EVEN LOWER! That's why the higher temps, cause it overvolts it on every single setting!
Enable overvolt: ON (which give 0.205V extra)
VCORE: 1.125
Reboot............ ........... ..........
Windows reads: 1.39V!! ;) Which aint logic, cause it should say like 1.33V!!!
I've figured it out... and by doing this, the temps are NORMAL! Like they should be... idle 30c and load like 44~46C!! :) And I even oc'd my Opteron 170 to 2.6GHz on this volt I just wrote... 1.33V from bios ;) SICK! :shocked: :shocked: :shocked: :shocked: