My DDC-2 started sticking last night and I condemned it tonight. I put my D5 back in and requested an RMA from DD.
I treated that pump like a new bride and still it did me wrong! :D
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My DDC-2 started sticking last night and I condemned it tonight. I put my D5 back in and requested an RMA from DD.
I treated that pump like a new bride and still it did me wrong! :D
Maybe you'll get one of the new revisions in replacement. If so, report back on every little detail on what is different, if the tops still fit/work right or not... all the details! ;)
Man, that sucks. I just got mine and will be running tonite, and with every story I hear it worries me more.
It would be nice to find out what is causing this from the horses mouth.
Liang, any answers???
Hmm.. "NickS you're so wrong, DDC's never die!"Quote:
Originally Posted by SiGfever
Yeah... this is like the 20th case now? I think the "bad batch" theory can be eliminated. :rolleyes:
Anyway, thank god it didn't take out any hardware with it. Stick with the D5. FTW! :woot:
Quote:
Originally Posted by SiGfever
eeek...mine is on the way right now... how long did you have yours en till it died ?
Well, we got an odd D5 or two....and the DDC-2, this is the first I recall...Quote:
Originally Posted by NickS
I hope theirs a spree of D5 dieing, just to shut you up :p: (smug bastard).
By the way, what's the blue on your name mean? I never sorted them out...
Bold = mod
Green = VIP type.
....
Smug bastard? Ouch :(
XIP = Blue.
XL = Green.
How can you say this is the first DDC2 to die? I see DDCs dying all the time. If you're afraid of getting a bum D5 then get a 50z. DDC is nice but with all the deaths and the fact that it's not much better while costing more, I'd never get one.
Now you have an excuse to run TWO in series. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by SiGfever
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../ddc-2s013.jpg
My ddc-2 also died recently. Apparently, the pump got so hot it blistered the gel pad it was sitting on and I gather that is what caused the failure.
Another one... there have been quite a few threads around here lately about DDC's dying. Might want to switch over to an iwaki RD30.Quote:
Originally Posted by SiGfever
No now he has an excuse not to buy bad pumps.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShoNuff
And people wonder why RD30 is better then dual DDC's. Because it provides pretty much the same performance and it doesn't break, ever. I am so happy I got one when I had the chance.
and how many people run rd30? If one rd30 fails, it's like 10 ddcQuote:
Originally Posted by epion2985
And how many DDCs are built with Iwaki engineering and quality?Quote:
Originally Posted by mion
I havn't seen a single Laing in Iwaki price range fail. QC could be better on the cheap ones though.Quote:
Originally Posted by afireinside
Gee, another DDC with an after-market top failed.
Lets start a poll ... anyone ?
when your pump died (timeframe) and which model, if you had an after market top
Poll like this.
If your DDC2 died pick one
a. It died, stock top
b. It died, modded, my own top
c. It died, alpha top
d. It died, alpha top moded
e. It died, petra top
f. It died, other modded top.
Yeah that sounds good .. should there be other pumps also that are known to die
damn, guys, you are realy scaring me!
i'm waiting for my new ddc (d5 replacement) and now you report such a bad news! :wth:
If this makes you fill better, I ran DDC plus from the time when it came out with various tops until last week when I sold it. Not a single problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by skaktuss
k scrap scrap that... just do the DDC - 2
or wait lets add in a time frame to those ... how long before it died
Guys do note the DDC-2 runs hot so please stick some heatsinks on the bottom. Placing the pump on a pad or the gel stuff would make it run hotter!
Both of mine are still running fine, for now.. I hope they go on for years.. :D
thanks, mion :)
but you now that mixing 10 grams of :banana::banana::banana::banana: with 1 kilogram strawberry jam you get ~1kg :banana::banana::banana::banana: :)
Heatsinks..where would you put them...
Bottom of pump. I got 8 small ram sinks on one pump and 4 larger ram sinks on the other. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by sreedx2
to be honest, I never noticed how hot my DDC-2's ran until I disassembled my rig for the first time with them - the "gel stuff" pad under them was melted to the shape of the bottom of the pump, with bubbles forming like it was almost melting
but IDK - neither of the pumps (in series) died within the period that I had them with alphacool tops, but seeing these dying every so often, I might have to run 2x D5's when I setup WC again
Really hmm... so you don't have the pump mounted to the case ?
I just recently re-tubed my loop and put a Laing D-4 in front of my DD-2 w\Petras Top just in case. I couldn't see spending another $100 when this D-4 was just sitting here. If the DDC-2 does quit on me, at least I will find out before things get real hot, I hope.
Sorry to hear about your pump. Glad nothing cooked.
is that alright running 2 different pumps in your loop ?
Not sure. I ask the question here a while back and never got a definitive answer of yes or no. A little discussion, but that was it. So I thought logically, which sometimes works and sometimes doesn't when it comes to water cooling. I figured if I put the pump with the weaker head pressure in front of the stronger one that it wouldn't impede it's performance. But the D-4 has a higher flow rate than the DDC-2. So I really don't know where that figures into the equation.
I use a reservoir that takes up two 5 1/4" drive bays. And I can tell you that the water returning to the reservoir is shooting across towards the front of the reservoir just a little further. I can't fill it up because I have a leaking gasket around one of the plastic plugs. If it helped my temps any at all it is under 1C because the idle & load temps remain unchanged. But I did this mainly to have a back up in case my DDC-2 dies. It doesn't seem to be hurting my loop at all though. So I guess it is alright.
Enough with the hi-jack. Sorry m8s.
The flow rate will be limited by the d4 but in total you will have greater head pressure than either single pump, perhaps ~the sum of the two heads. I'm not sure about the flowrate before and after your change tho :) Too early
A lot.Quote:
Originally Posted by mion
They never fail as far as you are concerned. And if they do iwaki will replace for free.
But it doesn't matter as they don't fail. They are made to run 24/7 punishing saline aquarium water for over 10 years. You don't have to worry about an rd30 failing.
This may be news to some poeple but you get what you pay for.
I have been thinking about an Iwaki, but not because of the DDC-2 giving up the ghost for some. Mainly wanting to increase the cooling performance of the Storm if that is possible to do using an Iwaki over a DDC-2 w\Petras Top.
Plus, I leave my rig running 24\7 so an Iwaki would make sense to use if only because they are designed to run all the time for years on end. Of course, "the DDC pump employs a brushless DC motor with a lifetime in excess of 50,000 hours when operated at 12 volts — three to four times the life expectancy of other pumps in its class." as quoted from Laings web site. If it get all those hours in, that is somewhere between 6 or 7 years anyway.
So I guess it would boil down to performance. Is there a performance increase in cooler temps using an Iwaki with a Storm Rev. 2? I guess the only real way to know would be to buy one and see for myself. Which I believe I will seeing as I have a little $$$ burning a hole in my wallet. Gotta find one now.
Been an XIP since before the XS/XR split the other year... no blue for me *shrug*Quote:
XIP = Blue.
XL = Green
you had the gel-stuff under you pump? all DDC-2s i saw till now had foam or gel-stuff underneath it:stick: .
i think the alphacool-mounting is the best (no vibration at all+good cooling), the foam-mounting has to be redone, i think that it's the heat killing the pump, i mean there is nearly no physical difference between DDC and DDC-2 so there is no reason for all these DDC-2s dying and all 10w version still running without problems:stick:
so poll should be more like:
your DDC-2 died
a) with gel-stuff
b) with foam
c) with alphacool-style mounting
Stop scaring me guys.:( Ive got a DDC-2 with a petras top that im going to using soon. I really do not want it to fail, as I bought it from Petras, so RMAing from the UK would be expensive. Does anyone know why the failure rate is so high then? Is it the overheating? Has anyone reported this to Laing, and has there been an answer from them? I was going to mount mine on gel, but im now considering making a custom bracket and fitting an old P2 heatsink to the bottom.
Mine & many others have been running for many, many months now without issue. We never hear about those. Only the ones that fail. I think there's too much stock going in what is being said.
I have been running mine on the foam. I un-mounted it yesterday while it was running to check out the heat concerns. While it was warm, it was no where near hot. And it has been running 24\7 with the occasional restart for program updates for nearly four months now. I believe the vast majority are fine. So use it and just check it from time to time for your own piece of mind m8. More than likely it will be fine imho.
ahhh the benefits of a reservoir. If no water movement = pump no good.
Lets say that with your OCed processor and two GPUs, you've got a 300-watt heat load. Lets also say that you have poor flow now of 0.5 GPM. That means that the water temperature rises and falls a total of 2.71 C in your loop.Quote:
Originally Posted by Quazi
If you plot the DDC+ P-Q curve against the RD-30, and also guesstimate a friction head curve based on 0.5GPM for the DDC, the projected flow rate of the RD-30 would be about double...or 1 GPM. That means that water temperature would rise and fall a total of 1.31 C in your loop.
You have the *potential* to improve temps by 0.655 C (half of half the difference is how it works out.) In truth the improvement is less because your previous lowest-water-temperature will rise slightly by an unknown amount...determined by the performance abilities of the radiator.
Personally, I think you’d do better by getting one of the latest radiators with the thin flat tube design.
D5 has way much less problems but they still Dies! Like mine did...Quote:
Originally Posted by NickS
how long were u running it before you died? Im surpised DD didnt send you to swiftech. How did DD handle the RMA process? smooth?
Didn't Laing release a new revision of the DDC? Maybe that will help cut down the failure rate.
Would it be possible to mount the DDC-2/Petra's top on its side on the gel stuff, and then use heatsinks on the bottom or wherever?
Also, what's the best thing to use to stick the heatsinks to the pump? I have an old GPU heatsink that would fit perfectly.
I think that you guys may be blowing the whole DDC-2 failure thing a little out of proportion... as I've only been seeing about a 5% failure rate thus far and I've heard that Jab-Tech has had about 3% of theirs come back.Quote:
Originally Posted by SparkyJJO
...aside from that, Swiftech claims that they never fail, Danger Den is "looking into it", and the guys at Laing seem very, very lost. :rolleyes:
I must agree with you here. I don't think that 5% failure rate is going to keep me from getting a DDC-2 with your top when I finally can afford to watercool. I'll just make sure to have it set up that if the DDC's RPMs drop too low the system will automatically shut off, just as a precaution. I'd want to do that with any pump to be honest.Quote:
Originally Posted by Petra
Quote:
Originally Posted by Graystar
Thanks for the explanation Graystar, very much. I am really trying to wrap my brain around everything you have taken the time to share with me, and I believe I am making progress. So I am not going to ask for any further explanation, I appreciate the time you've spent thus far.
But what I will ask you about is your suggestion about trying a "thin flat tube design" radiator. My logic says the bigger radiator the more time the water is spent inside cooling down. It seems as though logic works for some areas of water cooling, and in others it matters not. Personally, I have been wanting to install a rad that would allow me to keep it all inside my case. But I didn't want to loose any performance.
So you think a different rad may even help the performance of my loop? No questions or need of explanation. I trust your opinion. But could you go as far as recommending a radiator for me to use so I can get rid of the quad monster and be able to install it inside my case, which is a full towered CM Stacker? I have been looking at the Thermochill PA120.3's. Are those thin flat tube designed rads? Are 120.3's too much? Would a 120.2 get it done just as well?
Well, obviously without any performance data on your existing heatercore, I can’t know for sure what affect a rad change will have. So I’m only speculating.Quote:
Originally Posted by Quazi
That said, I think those Thermochill rads are supposed to be considered the best performers at the moment, although I haven’t seen them pitted against the latest from HWLabs (Black Ice GT Extreme rads) I personally would go with the Black Ice because I don’t think there will be a significant difference in performance, if any, between a BI and a Thermo, and because I like the M4 tapped mounting holes for the fans (Thermo uses self tapping screws...ewww.)
You definitely have a high heat load, and you’re looking for superior cooling, not just good enough, so I would recommend fitting in as much rad as possible. At the very least you should be able to slap a triple up front and hang a single off the rear 120, right? Like I said, I’m speculating, but I would bet dollars to donuts that a 3 + 1 setup of best-of-class radiators will out-perform your current quad heatercore.
Marci mentioned some unpublished testing on the [H] a while ago... pitting the PA120.3 against the GTX 480. It showed the PA120.3 outperforming the GTX 480 by a few degrees with undervolted fans (can't recall what type...probably yates or similar) and the GTX 480 taking a very small performance lead with the fans at full speed. I'll dig around later today and see if I can find the post but, either way, vague tidbits of information from unpublished testing likely shouldn't be taken too seriously. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Graystar
A recent discussion on these rads including the test results you speak of can be found here... http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=131111Quote:
Originally Posted by Petra
Interesting thread...I just built my C2D system.... with dual pumps. D5-->10wDDC /w Petra Top. Amazing flow-rate when the DDC runs!!
I used the DDC for years with the stock 1/2" modded top.... with NO start problems. With the new Top I'm having pump start issues... that I've not figured yet.
It may have to do with pump orientation and air bubble in the chamber? The D5 is in front of the resevoir(constant flood) the DDC is mid-case. So when my comp. powers off, I get a backwash of water and the DDC gets air-bubbles flowing thru it. I'm thinking it's either the Top or it's orientation/air-bubble. could people with start problems let me know if you're using a... modded top/resevoir and pump orientation.
I couldn't tell if my DDC was running(mostly it wasn't!) by touching it.
(no tach wire on this baby!)
Solved it by... turning D5 to #2 b4 boot-up... and watch bubbles go.... with the DDC enabled.... it vaporizes air-bubbles to mist.
My method of reticient pump starting ... is wacking it with a wrench!
Done then. Thanks for your help and advice m8! I wish I could get some numbers together to make a comparison, like a before or after. But I am really just figuring out what you guys are talking about. I figure with more reading will come more understanding. By the time I get the new rads (have to wait for Uncle Sam to take a dump), I will have gained a bit more knowledge and be able to garner performance numbers out of my current setup before I make the switch. Would be interesting to know. All I can tell now is my ambient room temps, my idle temps, & and my load temps. This talk about delta's & TAT's and the like is over my head at the moment. But at least with knowing the ambient room temp and the idle\load temps, if I don't learn what the other terms mean and how to get those numbers, these numbers I do know how to get will provide a short insight to any performance\effectiveness gains before and after.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graystar
Thanks again Graystar!
Here is my experience. I had a problem where my ddc would stall for no appearant reason on start up. I measured the voltage (12.5 which seems ok). So I took apart my loop and took the pump apart. Appearantly for me it was sticking because of the hydrx had become somewhat solid, as it's been known to do. So I cleaned it out with one of my old cleaning toothbrush and screwed it to a piece of aluminum. It hasn't had a problem for 6 months now.
D5 Ftw!
I had it since 8/2006. DD was very fast to send me the RMA info and Kathi was nice as always.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aldy402
If you look at the DDC "sticky" you will see my pump with the Alphacool top and the heat sinks on the bottom. I think that I was the first one here to put heat sinks on the bottom. I also have a 120mm Yate D12SL-12 blowing on the heat sinks and the bottom of the pump. There were no chemicals impeding the rotation of the impeller.
I just wish that the Iwaki was 12vdc.
I wish the IWAKI wasn't so huge, sucked so much power, and made so much noise. I have not heard the black IWAKI (MD?) Just the 120 Vold RD's at the aquarium shops and they make a lot of noise. Nice heavy duty looking things though.
IIRC, there was a thread on here a few months back and one theory was that using just distilled water without Pentosin (or equivalent lubricant) resulted in more DDC pump failures and/or starting problems. Although this doesn't make much sense since there are no bearings to lubricate it was supported by a number of people who had pumps fail (using distilled only).
FWIW, I have a pair of DDC-2's running in series and use a 10:1 distilled:Pentosin coolant and haven't had any problems with my pumps in over 6 months of daily start/stops. When I was doing some loop and flow testing with my very first DDC's (purchased from the rumored "bad batch" from PPC's) with tap water only, both stopped running after just a couple of days. :shrug:
In other words, you wish you had a DDC! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Chas_The_Man
Probably rumored bad batch is the one that people run their pumps for the first time without water.Quote:
Originally Posted by virtualrain
just my 2 cents but petras reporting a 5% failure rate...isnt that huge, i mean 1 in 20 is bad in my mind.and my ddc2 with stock top doesnt get hot top or bottom, a little warm thats it.
Five percent failure is actually terrible. The only problem is, what were the reasons for the 5 percent failure? Was it user error or was it the pump.
@jessethebody and thecoldanddark:
On what data are you basing the opinion that 5% failure rate is bad? My understanding is that a 5% failure rate for consumer electronics is actually very good.
For comparison, PCs have a 15% failure rate in year 1, (http://www.eweek.com/article2/0,1895,1981877,00.asp). Also, Apple claims ipods have a 5% failure rate, which they say is better than average. From my own personal experience, I have returned WAY more than 5% of the electronics I buy for a failure of some sorts.
However, without knowing what the failure rate is for other pumps, I don't know how we can come to any conclusions about whether 5% is good or bad...
fair enough mr.bobsmith .but to all these guys expressing concern about their pump, your odds are 1 in 20 of a dead one. keep that in mind.people were mad about the infamous nvidia 7900 failures which were much less likely to fail than these.
Not true.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graystar
Just because you double the flow doesn't mean you double the heat dump, its not a linear curve. Also the rd30's are generally undervolted to rd20 level for best performance. And lastly tests show that, not that I can find any right now, that the performance difference between the undervolted rd30 and dual DDC's is not very significant while reliability is.
Iwaki makes a lot of pumps, saying an "iwaki" will give better performance is ludicrous. I was mearly refering to the iwaki RD30 (undervolted around 18v)Quote:
Originally Posted by Quazi
apparently not lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Quazi
Oh yes it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by epion2985
I didn’t double the heat load. The heat load stays exactly the same. That’s why the temperature difference dropped in half.Quote:
Originally Posted by epion2985
Did you calculate how much heat is required to change one gallon of water by 2.71 C and two gallons of water by 1.355 C? If you did you’d see that the amount of heat is exactly the same.
I see that I wrote 1.31 C in my post...probably an editing error. It should read 1.355 C.
The heat load always stays the same because it is determined by the operation of the computer, not the cooling system. There is nothing that the cooling system can do to change the heat load. The change in water temperature is dictated by the head load and flow rate. That also is a direct linear relationship. Changes in either always induce linear changes in the other.
What isn’t linear and what isn’t known is at what temperature, above ambient, this entire process of heating and cooling will decide to settle at. That is determined by the efficiency of the waterblock and rad, and how flow rate affects them.
mmm no.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graystar
Re read what I said. I did not say anything about the heal load. I said heat dump, referring to the heat dumped by the motor of the pump. Which is a function of its power output. As this is the only reason why a bigger pump is not better. And the point I am making is that compared to dual DDC's its not much different. The resulting flow while better is hit by the slightly larger heat dump. In the end dual ddc's perform a little bit better, however the iwaki is more reliable. Thats all.
Desktops purchased in 2005 and 2006 averaged a 5 percent failure rate in year one and are projected to have 12 percent failure rate in year four. Desktop machines purchased in 2003 and 2004 saw rates of 7 percent in year one and 15 percent in year four.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobsmith
Remember its 15 percent failure rate for the whole desktop computer in year 4. It's not just one part. It's ram, hard drive, motherboard, videocard, and the psu. If one part goes bad the whole computer is part of that statistic. If you have 1 hard drive, 1 motherboard, a videocard, 1 psu, at least one optical drive, and 2 sticks of memory that could be part of that statistic. So even with your example 5 PERCENT IS TERRIBLE.
Laptops are more prone to failure because of user error and tight spaces with lots of heat. I have seen people walking around with their laptop plugged in, or how about the occasional drop. The average person is terrible at keeping their investment safe.
One more thing I believe the statistic you used was for laptops.
I think here is the solution!Quote:
Originally Posted by jessethebody
I supposed that there are some problems with modded top. Some kind of project mistake, maybe. Here in Italy, usually we use the DDC with the original top, and the percentage of broken pumps is very little.
It will be a good idea to open the poll that you were discussing somewhere, so we can do a statistic.
I see. Okay. I’m still right. You’re still wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by epion2985
You’re wrong because there is no pump heat included in my calculations. I didn't include pump heat because the increase in pump heat is a mere 7% of the example heat load (300 watts.) In this case its effects are negligible.
Well this is obviously wrong…otherwise we would all be using pumps from table-top fountains.Quote:
Originally Posted by epion2985
If I were to factor pump heat into my calculations, then the change in water temperature increases from 1.355 C degrees to 1.45 C for the Iwaki. That reduced the amount of potential improvement to 0.63 C. So it’s nearly the same. That because the problem isn’t pump heat...the problem is simply the physics of how flow affects temperature.
Increased flow helps only to a point. Beyond that point, increased flow, even if you could do it with no increase in pump heat, will not produce noticeable improvements.
Rereading the article you are correct. The statistic is for laptops, not desktops.Quote:
Originally Posted by thecoldanddark
Regardless, my point is simply that failure rate percentages WITHOUT comparative data are meaningless for making judgments. One cannot simply say 5% is "bad", without a point of reference. For example, if it turned out that all other pumps had a 10% failure rate, then the 5% rate of the DDC would be fantastic. Therefore before saying that the DDC rate is "terrible" (which it very well may be), please provide the comparative failure rate for other pumps.
I am not wrong because I am not talking about the same thing as you are. No effect is negligible as I am not talking about what is and isn't as thats a matter of opinion. Niksub here has tried both and to him the difference is not negligible.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graystar
I don't see where you are going with desktop fountain pumps, they are tiny not big. We don't use them because they offer very little pumping power.
Again I am not saying the difference in temperature is negligible or not, I know flow benefit is a curve of diminished returns, in fact I am saying what you are saying if you read carefully.
Let me say it again:
Dual DDC's and iwaki rd30 can offer just about the same performance while the rd30 is much more reliable. End of story.
my local reseller got told by laing that startup problems only appear when using an older DDC-2 without an water additive. laing claims to have solved this problems with a new revision, but i don't believe them because supposed to be the "newer" DDCs without the issues are in no way different to the "older ones", they only had a firmware update:stick:
I’m confused. First you say that what I had said was not true, then you say we’re not talking about the same thing, and then you say you’re saying what I’m saying.Quote:
Originally Posted by epion2985
I can’t make head or tails of it. Lets just agree to disagree...or agree...whichever.
In no way different other than new PCB Design, different impeller ?Quote:
Originally Posted by generics_user
For the sake of the peace I will admit to have confused myself so just ignore everything I said with exception of this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graystar
"Dual DDC's and iwaki rd30 can offer just about the same performance while the rd30 is much more reliable."
I think we can agree on that.
and let there be peace :)
anyone using Petra coolant...I redid my loop finally and used about 1/3-1/2 shot glass of Petra's coolant in PA160...ran for 8 hrs so far on leak test and seem to be ok
I may add more of Petra's coolant or some Pentosin as well
Update:
Pump was sent off yesterday to DD, now the wait begins... I sure am glad tha I kept my D5.
Also costs a fair chunk more, but yes, its a tank.Quote:
Originally Posted by epion2985
I run mine @ 15v, it'll probably still be running the day I die at that speed :lol2:
:rolleyes:
We thought that you might have overdosed on cake! :eek:
Glad to see that you are still with us. :toast:
This thread just got me thinking about where my receipt is for my DDC+ that I bought last May at Microcenter. I can't find that receipt anywhere. Fortunately I just called them and I should be able to go by and get another copy of the original receipt from their database. Not to mention that I need this receipt so that I can write it off on my business taxes.
Cake Overdose is an oxymoron ^^Quote:
Originally Posted by SiGfever
:toast:Quote:
Originally Posted by SiGfever
Well Danger Den received my RMA'd pump and this is what I just received. Keep in mind that I had to continually hit the casing to get it to start...
"Hello John,
Yes I did receive you DDC pump. The problem is that it has not failed. I have had it running for more than a day, turning on and off and still no problem. I will run it long to see if it will fail, if not I will be sending it back to you, and you will need to contact Laing because there is no way we can put a claim in as defective.
Best regards,
Kathi
Danger Den"
:confused:
Hmm, this gets me thinking. Over the years, I have had strange issues with hard drives. Sometimes, they acted dead, no power, not detected in bios or windows. Now, if I would change the molex connector the drive would then work again. The molex that was in the drive worked, but for some reason the HD just didn't like THAT one. Maybe this is what is happening with these 12v pumps? Just a thought.
Since I have the Alphacool top on it I could see the impeller freeze up until lightly tapped. It would only stall on startup.Quote:
Originally Posted by nikhsub1
That makes sence, at only 12 volts, a molex connector is a piece of crap. Any oxidization and you will get low voltage. The pump needs a lot of voltage and current to start so a clean connection is required.
I have a Petra top on my DDC2...sitting on the paper covered foam pad for my D5..the pump gets pretty warm..I have no idea what is too hot..I am thinking of placing 4 rubber mounts to elevate it and then place a few ram sinks on the bottom...since some have suggested these aftermarket tops are overheating and killing these pumps
mebe just the tolerances are a bit too tight making the impeller stall
Interestingly, I also haven't been able to recreate most of the startup issues that people have been having... However, I end up testing the pumps at a range of voltages and varying head pressures and that usually results in me discovering that the pump makes angry knocking/buzzing noises (which it should never do). So, I guess the reason why I've never sent a DDC back to a customer as "working fine" is because I test them thoroughly enough to actually find defects. Swiftech (and likely Danger Den as well) seem to just run a few simple free-flow tests and call it a day (maybe they run it in a simple loop, but I doubt it). Heck, Swiftech doesn't even open the pump up unless you happen to mention something that encourages them to... :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by SiGfever
whats the point in running pumps in parallel ?
don't say incase one dies...
Yeah, I asked Kathi to run it in a restrictive loop not just Res>Pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by Petra
hmmm, they replaced my first one with no issues(with 1 over a year old:rolleyes: ) but mine was completly deadQuote:
Originally Posted by SiGfever
try seting up a simple test loop, if it fails to start and just twitches don't flick it ;) re-rma when twitching stops:D
edit: do not use above method if you purchased youre pump from Petra :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petra
That's almost depressing.
LOL, Yeah that is what I should have done was to let it fry. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by _G_
You know, just out of curiosity, did you ever check the voltage going to the pump with a multimeter at the molex connector?
About 1yr ago all of a sudden one day my computer screen on boot up is filled with gobbly-gook of big blocks of color. I of course tried an old spare card and it worked fine. So I RMA'd the VC and when I plugged in the replacement, same story. I then replaced the MB. Same story. I finally bought a multimeter and low and behold the 5v line at the molex was only getting about 2v. Turns out a connector on an extension cable that had worked just fine for months was suddenly not making good connection. The old card didn't need to be plugged in which is why it worked.
Long rant I know, but I learned a valuable lesson...
I'm glad after reading about the heat question that I have my pump with top laying on its side on foam so bottom faces sideways and gets airflow.
Yes I used a DVM and it was dead on 12vdc. My D5 is plugged into the same tap and it does, and has always done great. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by voigts
Maybe you are experiencing the same syndrome as when you take anything to a repair shop. Whatever it is, it can be all torn up and doing strange things until you reach the repair place at which point it works perfectly all of a sudden.
:ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by voigts
The only difference was that I had just changed to running 100% distilled with 4-5 drops of Povidone instead of my usual same mixture along with 1-2oz of Pentosin. The pump NEVER ran dry even for a split second and using heat sinks on the bottom and a 120mm D12SL-12 blowing directly on the heat sinks the pump never, ever got hot.
Update:
When I got home tonight a package was waiting for me from Danger Den. I looked at it wondering if DD had sent my locking-up pump back because they couldn't duplicate the problem or did they step up to the plate and send me a new pump to replace mine?
Well as has been my experience dealing with DD they are a stand-up company and provide excellent customer support. I have dealt with Kathi on several occasions and she has always been very pleasant. So I opened the box and found a BRAND NEW 01/07 manufacture DDC-2TPMP sitting in the box!
My hat goes off to them for showing that they are willing to back their products and must have gone the extra distance to test my pump under a restriction to simulate real world conditions until it failed. :toast: :clap: :clap:
Blue or Black impeller?
Orange.
Wow, that's really good service. A brand new pump. AFAIK all DDC-2s have orange impellers but I could be wrong.