After about a week in my loop the blue is almost all gone. There is a dark blue spot in the top of the res and a dark blue spot by my drain plug. But the rest is a light blue. What is up?
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After about a week in my loop the blue is almost all gone. There is a dark blue spot in the top of the res and a dark blue spot by my drain plug. But the rest is a light blue. What is up?
Why did you buy fluid xp lol????
Not this again. Ok lets make it quick.
-Fluid Xp is horrible as are most "pc coolants", which are at the very least unnecessary and inferior to water
-don't use it
-don't buy in to advertisement
-distilled water with pentosin is the best thing you can get
-close thread
I want the blue color. You have not even touched on my question yet though. I did not ask if it is the best, I asked if anyone else uses it and if they have the same problem. If this is caused by me not cleaning my loop enough or some other thing that I did then I can fix it. If it is an issues that just happens with fluid XP then I will try to find another route to go.
Lo0L! You seem to have the same problem(s) i had with that crap... Open up your blocks and pump and see what it did to them! It stained all my stuff and cloged (Kinda) my Apogee! Yeah... i said cloged! temps would become worse over time with that crap... The blue was almost all gone, it stained all my stuff ( Had to clean blocks and pump whit a toothbrush and some vinegar, as for the rad took me a hell lot of vinegar pouring times to get the vinegar clean of blue when it was coming out after a 6hours soaking time...) etc... Not even UV blue as they state it is... So overall it's BS!
I'd recommend you to take apart your watercooling system, clean all blocks, pump(s) actually clean everything you can with white vinegar and a toothbrush and then get something else they recommend here. Pentosin G11 for example.
Whats funyn is that you have the same system i ran with that Fluid-XP crap... An Apex Ultra kit!
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesTX10
I think he was telling you its the Fluid XP. Use Pentosin 11 to get the blue color and not have the same headache.
I recall similar problem on another forum in which the radiator caused the "blue" to disappear or something like that (it's been a while)
link
Thanks for replying to my question. Guess I will go with the harmful to my health juice when I change it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Patriote
Sooner the better to be honest with ya dude
I am ordering some blue pentosin from Petra. Do I need the PT Nuke as well or is pentosin a biocide as well?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesTX10
The Nuke is a Biocide and the Pentoson is just to help with cooling.
I am using both.
Here is a post my Petra regrding using just Distilled water and NUKE:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petra
I will be doind the same thing this weekend. I used FluidXP and it was fine for a while, then it looks like it broke down or something. I have what looks like sandish substance in my res, and of course the tubing.
No temp difference yet, but I am fairly upset with this crap. I ordered Pentosin and new tubing as well...it should be here tomorrow actually. I am going to try to clean the blocks w/o taking them off the mobo...depending on how bad it is.
it is nasty stuff. It works out ok for me because I will tear the whole thing down to move it to my new case when it gets in.
If I use zerex as my water additive, do you guys reccommend that I still get PT nuke or is the zerex good enough?
Here is what I got from fluid XP:
I emailed them back with my specs. Will see what they say.Quote:
Hello James, We will need some information from you to determine why as you say there is gunk in your blocks and radiator before we can do anything. We do not have ingredients in our product to produce "gunk" but there is other factors in a cooling system that can cause problems. Please supply us with a list of your components and their ages, this will help us in analyzing your problem. As far as the blue washing out, was it still UV reactive and are the other bottles of blue doing the same thing. Thanks, and with your help we can figure out what happened in your system. Jake Fluid XP+ Support
Really? uh oh, looks like I'll need something besides pt nuke... add some baking soda? lol
Zerex and Pentosin/other manufacturer G11/G12/G12+ have biocides inside already, no need for additional stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by ramenchef
Here are some pics:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...h_DSC01368.jpg
Notice the white gunk floating
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...h_DSC01370.jpg
More white gunk
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...h_DSC01371.jpg
Close up of the blue side and the clear side
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...h_DSC01372.jpg
I drained the system down as I had sold the case. Here are some more pics of the damage.
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...h_DSC01381.jpg
This is after about 2 weeks of use. The bottle on the left is what I drained out of the loop. The bottle on the right is new fluid. All the rest of the blue was clogged in the rad. Not too much in the water blocks. It took me around 2.5 hours to get the rad clear.
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...h_DSC01384.jpg
The res is "empty"
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...h_DSC01387.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesTX10
That is the same stuff, well looks the same as what Philly_Boy had in his loop when we took his apart.
Apperently it works allright if you filter it really well before putting it in... at least, Marci says so, so its probably true ;)
filter it with what? There was no gunk in it when it was added - Nothing to strain out in a coffie filter.
Ask Marci, I just put 2 Tbsp. of Xerex into a pure Distilled loop and close the case *shrug*
I am going to be using pentosen and distilled water when I set it back up
Here is my deal. I have some corsair coolant waiting for h20 setup. They say to add it to the res and top it off with some distilled. Is this a bad idea should I just get some pentosin stuff. My new case is coming soon and I been waiting a while so I dont feel like ordering stuff so what can I pick up from a store?
Update:
Hank over at Performance-pc has been great in doing what they can to fix the situation. Fluid XP on the other hand has not. They asked me to send in a sample of the fluid and some of the gunk covered tubes (they wanted my rad, I said no) so they could test them to see what went wrong. "Because there is noting in our fluid that would "gunk" up your system." They say that they will pay for the shipping if they find out it was their fault. I am not holding my breath on that.
They also say that they are sending me two new bottles of fluid to replace the two that gunked up my system. I got a UPS note on my door yesterday that says I have a COD package. I look it up and sure enough it is from fluid xp. They sent out the replacement fluid COD. Not cool in my book. They should have told me before hand that there would be a charge to me for the shipping.
Oh wow. They COD'ed you for the replacement fluid xp? Just a little pentosion/zerex should work fine instead of fluid xp.
Yup COD for the fluid. I am using pentosion now.
A couple of questions for ya James,
1. Did you first flush your rad before putting in the FluidXP?
2. Are you using the old FluidXP or the newer FluidXP+EXT?
1. I flushed with tap water and distilled water
2. Fluid XP+ HP (High Performance) Coolant - UV Blue
Sounds like you prepared properly. That's a big hassle to go through, first the clouding problem, then to rub salt in your wounds, to ship a replacement COD. I feel for ya.
Was the tap or distilled hot? or not? Seems Marci is saying hot does the trick to flush out any of the water based flux they are now using.
Also, is that Robar or Hard Chrome in your avatar???
It was not hot. The rad was a swiftech not a thermochill. My new thermochill was flushed with hot water and so far all is good using distilled water.
The gun is a bi-tone Springfield XD.
Here's a little review we did on FluidXP, results not quite as good as straight water....
http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews.p...rcooling_fluid
I'm thinking that anyone selling products in the EU, which I believe Swiftech does, would have to go to a water based flux to be RoHS complaint. If this is the case, I'm thinking flushing with hot water would be the new defacto standard as opposed to vinegar, alcohol, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesTX10
Then again, maybe not.
Wow. Just got an email back from Hank over at www.performance-pcs.com. It told me that they would refund me the COD cost that fluid XP is charging me. That is service. He could have blown this off a long time ago as I have been emailing him and fluid xp a lot. He has been VERY prompt in replying to emails. AWESOME CUSTOMER SERVICE
:toast:
Nice, that is some good service :D
darnit, now why did someone go and mention fluid xp... *hangs self*
Fluid XP has since emailed me back and told me that they found no issues with their product. :nono: They said that it must have been something in my loop. Beware. The only thing in my loop was my loop.
How predictable was that e-mail ... about there "test" ...Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesTX10
I mean do you seriously think that they even tested the 2 bottles ? They have sold tones and tones of that crap ... They just asked you to send them back the 2 bottles to make you feel better but overall im sure they didn't even had the idea to test out these 2 bottles. And im sure they didn't tested them.
Now that you know how good Fluid-XP is, will you ever buy some more ?
:) Um . . . No. I am still trying to figure out what I am going to do with the open bottle that I used a few ounces of.Quote:
Originally Posted by Patriote
Not quite - Zerex Racing Super Coolant acts as a biocide only in that it has a coincidental side effect of shifting the coolant's pH to a point that is unsuitable for most biological growth and thus prevents it. It isn't a "designed" feature of that particular additive.Quote:
Zerex and Pentosin/other manufacturer G11/G12/G12+ have biocides inside already, no need for additional stuff.
Think - people are seeing sludge with everything... from plain water thru to water with additives thru to non conductives. People ARE flushing and cleaning radiators before use and still getting issues. People are using no mixed metals and having issues. The source may be (or is) elsewhere in the system. What else is in contact with the coolant?
Look at the specsheet for Tygon's Silver Antimicrobial tubing... there are hints directly relevant to us.
Interesting. Marci, you are probably the one that know more than anybody else in here. How comes you know so much ? I bet you have been in the WC industry for quite a while! Each and all posts you write are interesting, provide lots of info and helped me lots of time too. Although sometimes i don't get everything you say :rolleyes: Basically because english isn't my Basic\First language... most of the time it's pretty interesting. Thanks for that!Quote:
Originally Posted by Marci
Find someone running a rig on Silver Antimicrobial. Get them to check for any sludge or buildup within blocks (obv needs to be someone who we can guarantee is running a "correct" coolant > additive ratio etc, pref someone running no mixed metals and plain distilled, who has flushed their hardware prior to fitting etc). Monitor their rig over a period of months to see if sludge appears...
And I'm not saying it's a microbial problem... just a feature of that particular tubing...
It's not a fact, but it's prime suspect for the cause of sludge and deposits amongst a few folks.
Where can one go about buying the Pentosin 11?Quote:
Originally Posted by phelan1777
Are you asking where you can get Pentosin G11 ?Quote:
Originally Posted by jmilcher
If so, heres where you can get some : http://www.petrastechshop.com/wacoac.html
I'll let you guys know. I'm runing the Tygon Silver from Petra's with a Storm G2, a MC6002(w/237w TEC) and a BIX III cleaned with Vinigar the first time and hot distilled the most recent build.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marci
Currently runing pure distilled water. I'm going to pull the loop apart April 7th for inspection and reflush. Been on pure water sense Jan 27th when the loop was redone after a FluidXP mistake.
Well I think I can report something too.
I am running a 3 loop system full copper blocks and no aluminium at all in the loops. I am only using distilled water and some silver wire in each of my reservoirs. All my radiators are Thermochill 2x PA120.2 and one PA120.3.
One of my radiators was used and maybe I did not clean as thoroughly as the other too so the tubing there got a bit cloudy (all tygon 3603). The other 2 loops are still reasonably clear and not algae growth at all after 2 months of use. And I think that if I had not used some UV additive they would be crystal clear. The 3rd loo (only chipset) I use for experiments and I also added some blue dye and I have to say it sucks.
So I would colour dyes indeed suck and UV clear additives lose their properties after about 2 weeks for me. At the end I will to some changes to my loop soon and this time its only distilled water and the silver wire for me.
NOTE: I am not actually using the normal distilled water but WFI (water for injection - medical) since it is so cheap here and I could not find distilled. This thing goes for 1.2 Euros per litre in the pharmacy store and when i asked they told me it is 8 times distilled.
If this is the UV additive/ colouring that is being used....
http://www.rosco.com/australia/scenic/fluo_paint.asp
(vinyl acrylic)
What happens when it comes into contact (reacts) with other additives, like some alcohols?
I wish I had read this thread before I gunked up my loop with Fluid-XP but what's done is done. I drained it and will clean it out over the weekend. My question is, are you referring to plain Pentosin rather than what Petra's is selling. Or would I be better off using plain distilled water and PT Nuke? My goal is to get maximum performance while keeping my loop as clean as possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by Patriote
They now have "Nano-Fluid" is this the same "Nano-Fluid" that was tested here a while ago?!
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/86...-_UV_Blue.html