First water cooled rig from scratch...worklog

As you can see from my sig, I have a fairly good AMD 64X2 4400+ system, but when the Conroes came out, I had to have one. I have an Asetek water cooling kit on my AMD system, but I wanted to make an extreme system from scratch for the new rig.

System

Lian Li PCG 70B with window side panel
E6600 (retail)
Asus P5B Deluxe (replace stock NB HS with CM Blue Ice Pro)
G-Skill 6400HZ 2GB
OCZ GameXtreme 700W PSU
ATI X1900XTX
150 GB Raptor
750GB Barracuda

Cooling

Thermochill PA 120.3 with Cooltechnica 1/2" barbs
DDC 18W with Radiical head and Danger Den 1/2" barbs
AquaXtreme MP-05 SP Limited Edition CBU block
Maze4 GPU block
Masterkleer 7/16" tubing
Delrin fillport with T line

Here's a few "before" pix of the case...

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...l/CIMG1237.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...l/CIMG1239.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...l/CIMG1236.jpg

Oh Boy...My E6600 arrived...It's a week 27, which have a good rep for overclocking...

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...l/CIMG1235.jpg


The first attempt at cutting the holes in the top of the case was less than spectacular, because of lack of a template...

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...l/CIMG1244.jpg

Then I finally stitched together 3 PA 120.1 templates, taking care to leave the proper distance between them. I highly recommend cutting holes in this shape, as opposed to circles, as it is much easier to do this shape, mostly straight lines and just a few arcs at the corners.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1251.jpg

I am still waiting for hardware to arrive, but I was able to mount the PSU. It's upside-down, so as to give the fan more room to breathe.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1256.jpg

I get most of my stuff this week, and I'll be working on the project and posting more pictures as I go.

One question...Would it be advisable to remove the cage that a top mounted PSU sits in? It will certainly make the Rad easier to mount, but I am somewhat concerned that doing so will alter the structural integrity of the case. If I do remove it, do I just drill through the rivets holding it in place?

8/29 Update:

Radiator installation delayed while I wait for my barbs. I did manage to get my fillport and T-line installed...

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1261.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1260.jpg

Got lots of goodies from the UPS man...

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1263.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1278.jpg

Rad installed...

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1274.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1272.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1280.jpg

Some mods done to my P5BD to ready it for water cooling, and an aftermarket NB cooler. I used AS5 on the mosfet HS.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1285.jpg

I guess my warranty is void now...

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1288.jpg

Voiding more warrantys, this one on my new X1900XTX

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1289.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1296.jpg

My DDC-18w with Radiical head...

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1295.jpg

Due to me not knowing the intake from the outlet, and asking for the output to go up and inlet to the side, Radiical gave me 90 degree barbs. Since it will be 2 weeks before I can get replacements, I went ahead and constructed my loop. I will change to straight barbs later.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1298.jpg

And the finished loop...

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1297.jpg

Leak testing...

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1303.jpg

Passed a 14 hour leak test, so I got up bright and early this morning, installed the motherboard, drives, and mounted my GPU (big PITA) and CPU waterblocks.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1306.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1307.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1310.jpg

I mounted the DDC on a square of Petra's gel stuff

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1311.jpg

A little cable management aside, she's ready to go!

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1313.jpg

Success!!!

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1315.jpg

...not so fast...about an hour later my DDC failed, almost (I hope) destroying my CPU, so I have to get a new one. Hopefuly Danger Den will get me a replacement quick, so I can get my system up and running without too much delay.

Got my new pump and new straight barbs. After substituting the new pump for old, I did some testing of the system. Temps were much higher than I thought they should be (70C under load at stock speeds). After a little investigating, I found out that my waterblock only fits in certain orientations. the part of the block that contacts the CPU is not centered on the mounting bracket. Therefore, when I installed the block (incorrectly, as I discovered later) capacitors next to the socket on the mb prevented good wb/cpu contact. I needed to rotate my wb 180 degrees, which added a "twist" to my loop, but as far as I can tell, no flow restriction ( I REALLY did not want to drain the system and swap the tubes on the wb).

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1317.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1318.jpg

I drilled a 1" nole in my mb tray, and lined it with some edging for cable management...

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1338.jpg

Here's a shot of the new pump in the Radiical bracket...

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1336.jpg

My aftermarket NB cooler, which keeps my NB temps cool...

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1337.jpg

I had to get a new LCD widescreen, this LG has great contrast, 5ms response time, and is very reasonably priced ($309 at Circuit City, you have to order on the web)...

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1340.jpg

and a few pix of the (almost) finished rig before putting the side panels on...

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1342.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1343.jpg

And now a few pix with the case fully assembled...

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1348.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1350.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1352.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1353.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...t/CIMG1351.jpg

If there is anything you want to see that I haven't shown, let me know! Again, thanks for all your help.

Mark

not only that the discharge air is slightly quieter with that shape.

Very nice, but what did you use to cut the holes? Dremel? Jigsaw?

Nice job!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Batman!

Very nice, but what did you use to cut the holes? Dremel? Jigsaw?

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Dremel with the cutting discs. I found that it was best to cut the straight segments until the wheel was about half its size, and then cut the arcs until the disc was consumed. Easier to cut an arc with a smaller disc

Mark

damn nice work

inice work so far ...
Cuz your doin it from scratch, this could be helpful for some starters ...
KEEP THE GOOD WORK :toast:

Nice work dude! Im thinking of getting that same exact case and some watercooling components very similar to what you have, so I'll look forward to what you do. Keep up with the good work!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Xicer

Nice work dude! Im thinking of getting that same exact case and some watercooling components very similar to what you have, so I'll look forward to what you do. Keep up with the good work!

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I'll keep posting pix as I go! Thanks all for your support!

Mark

Quote:

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One question...Would it be advisable to remove the cage that a top mounted PSU sits in? It will certainly make the Rad easier to mount, but I am somewhat concerned that doing so will alter the structural integrity of the case. If I do remove it, do I just drill through the rivets holding it in place?

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why don't you try it? it is blocking airflow a bit/ and depending where you'd place your radiator barbs also ..., just drill using 1/8 bit... if you feel it don't look nice, rivet it back on (aluminum 1/8 x 3/8 length).

or you could use some aluminum square tubing cut it to shape to act as support when riveted... (prop it diagonally from back of case to top of case)

Nice man.. keep it coming...

Always unexpected problems!

Thermochill recommends attaching fans to the rad using #6 x 1/2" screws with a gasket between the fan and the rad, and then attaching the fans to the case using #10 x 1/2" screws from the other side. Problem...the Yate Loon fans that I got do not have a hole at the front and another in the back of each corner...rather thay have an inch long tunnel which goes through the entire thickness of the fan. Therefore, I have the wrong screws, and am going to have to have one screw go through grill/case/fan/gasket/rad. I figure a dozen #6 x 1 1/2" or 1 3/4" will do...obviously I will try the shorter ones first, Thermochill makes it no secret that screws that are too long will puncture the core (not covered under warranty...LOL).

Sigh. At least I got the fillport and t-line installed. My radiical pump head, DDC, blocks, barbs, and other assorted stuffs are all coming this week. Hopefully the trade winds from Australia are blowing towatds the USA and I'll get my radiical head in time to complete my loop over the upcoming long holiday weekend.

Mark

yah the actual length you'd need are #6 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 depending on whats inbetween...

mine, i tap some #6-32 holes on my PA, and used some #6-32 by 1 1/2 to 1 3/4
i even tried attaching a 38mm sanyo denki there using 2inch length...

Bump

New pix added to original post

great work, keep the pics coming.

Have you thought about getting a shroud for the rad?
Seems it would be easier to mount(dont have to worry about the screws puncturing the core)

I heard shrouds didn't really help temps much, never really thought about it from the perspective of easier mounting, I'll see how it goes...I got 1 1/2" and 1 5/8" screws, and I'm sure one of those lengths will work without puncturing the core.

Mark

didn't really help temp much, correct on this, temp diff of 1 inbetween 2 degrees...

what we're after here is the airtight quality, so as we don't recycle air thru our rad, its coming from one side out the other, if not air tight, your out the other side air may cycle back in the middle and decrease some performance...

Good news...I got my waterblocks, DDC ultra, and motherboard. My rad grill comes today. I only lack my radiical pump head, a video card (considering Sapphire x1900xt for $316), and drives. I should be constructing my loop this weekend, so I can leak test as soon as my radiical gets here from down under.

Mark

i love the new g-series cases.
i wish they used the same PSU location on the k60 (smaller version of the g70)...

I got my Rad Grill today, and installing the fans/rad was tricky! Getting all 12 screws through the fans and correctly lined up with the rad was a dificult maneuver involving masking tape, bright lights, and a lot of patience.

Also got my mb today, reports on the Intel board are that week 27 6600's and the P5BD = good overclocks! All I need now is my radiical head, and I'll be able to construct my loop and leak test!

New pics on the original post.

Mark

nice work on that
now to place fan controller/ temp LCD on the upper drive bays?
with 3 more 5.25 bays free for optical drives.

now bringing out more popcorn...

This looks great, and is super-clean so far.

Just one question, why not mount the fans so that they pull fresh air through the rad?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Istasi

This looks great, and is super-clean so far.

Just one question, why not mount the fans so that they pull fresh air through the rad?

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That was a source of some great thinking for me. The case has 3 stock 120 mm fans bringing air into the case, one in front, one in back, and one in the side panel. My choices were to push cool air down into the case through the rad, and reverse the other 3 fans (otherwise I would have 6 fans sucking, and none blowing), or to have the fans pull air from the case through the rad, and out the top. The thinking is that though my CPU and GPU temps might suffer a bit, overall system temps would be better with cool air being sucked into the case from the front, rear, and side, cooling the drives, VGA card, and CPU/NB area, and exhausting the warm air through the top.

Mark

and your inverted PSU.

i feel sorry for the pump with Asus P5B Deluxe with constant poweroffs :( just haven't thought that through the Asus mob :( :( :(

I verified that my P5BD will POST, and did some warranty-voiding surgery on the cooling solution. All remaining components are in transit, hope to have her up and running in a week or so!

Mark

OP updated with new pix.

nice case and nice rad ill buy same case and i have the rad just behind me im going with the same block but with different pump how heavy is teh case? and it really looks that good like in pics? its easy to work with?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by leviathan18

nice case and nice rad ill buy same case and i have the rad just behind me im going with the same block but with different pump how heavy is teh case? and it really looks that good like in pics? its easy to work with?

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The case is pretty light, it's all aluminum. It has been a pleasure to work with for the most part. A few minor complaints, the mb tray does not have labels on the holes, so I am not sure how I am going to decide which holes to place the motherboard standoffs in. Also, with the PSU in the bottom, I am going to need to cut a hole in the motherboard tray to run power cables through so I can hide them behind the motherboard.

Mark

depending on some PSU, the 20/24 atx power are sometimes hard/stiff to get behind mobo, well good luck on that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by septim

depending on some PSU, the 20/24 atx power are sometimes hard/stiff to get behind mobo, well good luck on that.

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I think I can route the 20/24 around instead of behind the mb, I was thinking more of the extra 4/8 pin connector at the top.

Mark

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KaptCrunch

mhorgel

oh o.....you removed the NB heat pipe, i'd just add fan to the finned block of it, best have the rad on bottem for heat rises. all the heated air produced by your hardware has to go through rad.

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Many people with P5B's have been complaining about the poor chip/heatsink contact with the stock cooling solution, so the Blue Ice Pro is a good idea, I think.

With a total of 7 120 mm fans moving air in and out of the case, I doubt the case air will ever get hot enough to be concerned about. Heat rises, but with the rad at the top, not enough heat will build up in the case to raise temps much.

I believe that my CPU and GPU temps may suffer a bit with the rad on the top, but that overall system temps will be cooler.

Mark

well if you do have the time to reconsider your airflow...
but i also have it like that with my PSU exhaust 4inch away from my PA120.2
am sure it affects temps a little but overall system is still cooler than with old Tt beginner's setup...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by septim

well if you do have the time to reconsider your airflow...
but i also have it like that with my PSU exhaust 4inch away from my PA120.2
am sure it affects temps a little but overall system is still cooler than with old Tt beginner's setup...

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If I don't like it, I can simply turn all the fans around, suck cool in through the top, and exhaust if from the front, back, and side. I think with all the airflow, the temps inside the case will stay cool...warm air will not get a chance to collect in the case.

I got my Radiical top, but due to my own ignorance of how the pump worked, I got right angle barbs. I plan to get straight barbs and one of Radiical's DDC mounting brackets, but since it will take close to 2 weeks to get them, I'm going to go ahead and install it as is and replace the pump barbs later. I have my loop completed, and am ready to leak test. I hope to power up for the first time tomorrow or Monday!

Mark

New pix up in the op as soon as they upload to Photobucket.

Very nice build.

You touched on it, but didn't mention it later -
the pump's intake is on TOP/CENTER with that mod top right?
And then you use the plug to seal the "center" hole on the side and the output is the offset side hole right?

What size tubing are you using? 1/2ID or 7/16ID ??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Khaotic

Very nice build.

You touched on it, but didn't mention it later -
the pump's intake is on TOP/CENTER with that mod top right?
And then you use the plug to seal the "center" hole on the side and the output is the offset side hole right?

What size tubing are you using? 1/2ID or 7/16ID ??

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There's only 2 holes, intake pointing up and outlet to the side. No plug involved. I didn't know for sure that that was the arrangement, else, had I thought about it for a second, I would have gotten straight barbs and the bracket, which turns the pump on its side.

It's 7/16 ID tubing.

Mark

I cant wait to see what kinda temps your gona get and ur oc because i got just about the same everything but i went with the p5w dh delux...

Leak testing as I write this. I got a first hand illustration of the power of the DDC while bleeding the system. I removed the little screw in the back of the PA-120.3 while filling the system with coolant...I saw a fountain of coolant spray out of the back of my case LOL. I immediately said "DUH!" and partly screwed it back in, which was much easier to control, and. I'm sure, the way it was intended to be done.

I had heard some complaints that the DDC was loud, but I think it is very quiet. Also, the PSU fan is whisper quiet, though it may get louder when I put a full load on it.

Mark

looking great. I can't wait to see more pics.

5 hours of leak testing and no problems. I had an irrational fear that I had punctured my radiator core when I installed it, but no hint of a leak. I'll let it run overnight, and if it's OK int he AM, I'll start installing hardware!

Mark

<--- waiting patiently..... yeah, right! :D

awsome job so far, can't wait till it's done.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mhorgel

Leak testing as I write this. I got a first hand illustration of the power of the DDC while bleeding the system. I removed the little screw in the back of the PA-120.3 while filling the system with coolant...I saw a fountain of coolant spray out of the back of my case LOL. I immediately said "DUH!" and partly screwed it back in, which was much easier to control, and. I'm sure, the way it was intended to be done.

Mark

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I've got a PA120.3 coming in myself - so - the RAD has a bleed cap. While the system is running, you unscrew the bleed cap until you see fluid (spray) out and then cap it? Is that about right?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mhorgel

5 hours of leak testing and no problems. I had an irrational fear that I had punctured my radiator core when I installed it, but no hint of a leak. I'll let it run overnight, and if it's OK int he AM, I'll start installing hardware!

Mark

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is it that easy to puncture the rad core when installing the fans????

yup, especially when using pointed metal screws, in my case i hand tapped the holes to #6-32 then used the appropriate length screw for the fan gasket rad...

if you don't like this setup, go buy the optional shroud, as the shroud PA mounts via side screws where its less likely to puncture the PA...

mhorgel for the ddc i suggest paying close attention to it, don't know if there are still those faulty batch issues which stalls or outright won't F-- start...

also recently because of said ddc powerfull intake, check to see if your inlet tubing is still straight, i just notice mine had a little kink from reservoir going ddc. had to trim it down...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Khaotic

I've got a PA120.3 coming in myself - so - the RAD has a bleed cap. While the system is running, you unscrew the bleed cap until you see fluid (spray) out and then cap it? Is that about right?

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dont take the cap all the way out, just loosen it enough to let the air out, and watch the fluid levels, loosen the cap till you see them drop and when water dribbles out of the cap tighten it and refill move the rad around you should hear the bubbles go through the rad ......rinse and repeat

when you cant get any more bubbles out of the rad then turn on the pump rinse and repeat

Quote:

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Originally Posted by septim

yup, especially when using pointed metal screws, in my case i hand tapped the holes to #6-32 then used the appropriate length screw for the fan gasket rad...

if you don't like this setup, go buy the optional shroud, as the shroud PA mounts via side screws where its less likely to puncture the PA...

mhorgel for the ddc i suggest paying close attention to it, don't know if there are still those faulty batch issues which stalls or outright won't F-- start...

also recently because of said ddc powerfull intake, check to see if your inlet tubing is still straight, i just notice mine had a little kink from reservoir going ddc. had to trim it down...

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wow..thanks..I am thinking of getting a PA120.2 or PA120.3(gotta have the best) and I would hate to puncture the radiator with a screw

Quote:

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Originally Posted by septim

yup, especially when using pointed metal screws, in my case i hand tapped the holes to #6-32 then used the appropriate length screw for the fan gasket rad...

if you don't like this setup, go buy the optional shroud, as the shroud PA mounts via side screws where its less likely to puncture the PA...

mhorgel for the ddc i suggest paying close attention to it, don't know if there are still those faulty batch issues which stalls or outright won't F-- start...

also recently because of said ddc powerfull intake, check to see if your inlet tubing is still straight, i just notice mine had a little kink from reservoir going ddc. had to trim it down...

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Funny you should mention that...my DDC died while I was installing software...I got the Asus PC Probe software installed, pulled it up, and my CPU temp was 81 degrees! In disbelief, I downloaded Core Temp, and it (I'm not kidding) said my core temp was 5 billion degrees. I shut everything down, and when I tested my loop, my DDC was dead. I came damn close to losing a processor, and I suppose it might be damaged.

I did tie a zip tie from my return to some power cables on the PSU to straighten it out.

Mark

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mhorgel

Funny you should mention that...my DDC died while I was installing software...I got the Asus PC Probe software installed, pulled it up, and my CPU temp was 81 degrees! In disbelief, I downloaded Core Temp, and it (I'm not kidding) said my core temp was 5 billion degrees. I shut everything down, and when I tested my loop, my DDC was dead. I came damn close to losing a processor, and I suppose it might be damaged.

I did tie a zip tie from my return to some power cables on the PSU to straighten it out.

Mark

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shouldn't the PC shut itself or freeze itself or whatever if the CPU temp goes over some limit? my old PIII CA64-TC did that...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by marauder16

shouldn't the PC shut itself or freeze itself or whatever if the CPU temp goes over some limit? my old PIII CA64-TC did that...

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It should, but it didn't

Mark

looks good cant wait to see more pictures.

New pics up. DDC, however is dead so I am actually going to have to replace it, drain, fill, bleed, and leak test again before I can resume. Sigh.

Mark

those new DDC's seem to like to die alot, I read somewhere else of one diying too... :(

OK. I have a new DDC coming from Petra's, the Swiftech 335. My barbs from Radiical shipped today, so they may not be here for up to 2 weeks. Are there any barbs available in the US that will work with the Radiical head?

I really am not looking forward to draining, removing hardware, filling, bleeding, leak testing and reinstalling hardware. My idea is to invert my case so the pump is the highest point in the loop, carefully remove the pump, stopper the tubes and install the new pump. Then the only joints to leak test would be the pump barbs, and if those leaked, it would only be in the bottom of the case, which I could easily protect with a towel. Is there any downside to doing this?

Also, does anyone know of a device which detects flow in the loop and can give that data to the motherboard via a chassis fan connector?

Mark

Quote:

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the pump's intake is on TOP/CENTER with that mod top right?
And then you use the plug to seal the "center" hole on the side and the output is the offset side hole right?

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You're mixing up the radiical top (which has only center inlet and offset outlet) with the Alphacool top which is center AND offset inlet (and plug to blank whichever you don't wanna use) and offset outlet.

that 90 degree corner barb on your DDC pump is very restrictive ...i would replace it with a regular straight one.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by a5h

that 90 degree corner barb on your DDC pump is very restrictive ...i would replace it with a regular straight one.

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I am going to, does anyone know what kind of threads radiical uses for their pump head?

Mark

too bad the pump quit. Looks great though

Where you buy your fan grill template for the top window?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bail_w

Where you buy your fan grill template for the top window?

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I found the template on Thermochill's website. I could not get the template for the 120.3 to print actual size, so I printed out 3 120.1 templates and taped them together.

Here it is...http://www.thermochill.com/guides/FG120-1.pdf

Mark

Nice Job out there! I love it! That Case is really a Huge and perfect case for a PA120.3!

Nice work. Sorry your pump died :(

I want to do watercooling but three things keep me from doing it. Lack of money (the biggest one), I move my computer around alot (LAN parties for instance), and I'm scared to do it. So many choices for pumps and res (or T-line), rads (though I do know I want a 120.3) and who knows what else I'm afraid I'll get the wrong stuff and break something...

Don't be scared. Everyone did a first WC build once. You'll never go back to air again.

wait the pa120.3s don't come with a shroud anymore? I remember some1 telling me they did?

nice build btw! looks great

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Aldy402

wait the pa120.3s don't come with a shroud anymore? I remember some1 telling me they did?

nice build btw! looks great

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they do at performance-pcs if you choose to...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mhorgel

I found the template on Thermochill's website. I could not get the template for the 120.3 to print actual size, so I printed out 3 120.1 templates and taped them together.

Here it is...http://www.thermochill.com/guides/FG120-1.pdf

Mark

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well, what i am trying to say is where you bought your radiator grill :0

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tommrussell

dont take the cap all the way out, just loosen it enough to let the air out, and watch the fluid levels, loosen the cap till you see them drop and when water dribbles out of the cap tighten it and refill move the rad around you should hear the bubbles go through the rad ......rinse and repeat

when you cant get any more bubbles out of the rad then turn on the pump rinse and repeat

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Thanks! Will do. The final parts delivery should be today. So, given my schedule - should be friday that i get the beat put together. Unless i change my mind on the motherboard.........again

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bail_w

well, what i am trying to say is where you bought your radiator grill :0

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I thought that might be what you meant. I don't remember where I got mine, but they are available at Performance-PCs here...http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...oducts_id=4339

Mark

A bit of good news...

I got my new pump, and replaced it and the barbs on my Radiical head. After installing everything, I had CPU temps in the 50's at idle, and 70's under modest load. A detailed examination of my CPU wb mount showed me that the AX MP-05 is not symmetric! When installed in one orientation, the block makes contact with capacitors adjacent to the CPU socket, but when rotated 180 degrees, there is no obstruction, and block/cpu contact is established! Another example of the simplest things becoming pitfalls! It never occurred to me that there was only one correct orientation to the CPU block! Of course, I had to rotate the already installed block 180 degrees, and now my tubing is twisted, but not kinked.

Anyway, after correctly mounting the CPU block, Asus AI suite reports a CPU temp of 27 degrees at idle. I am currently running dual Prime-95 at 2.8 GHz with a CPU temp of 39 degrees.

Since I am somewhat new to overclocking, I am just increasing the FSB while leaving everything else on "Auto". I know the MB is assigning very loose timings to my RAM, but I'll deal with that later after my comfort level with playing with the BIOS improves.

More pics later.

Mark

can u please take a pciutre of ur case from the side, showing the whole case

please :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SaFrOuT

can u please take a pciutre of ur case from the side, showing the whole case

please :)

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You got your wish...just look at the op.

I guess I'm mostly finished. My new DDC is installed, and some cable management aside, the machine is operational. I've updated the op with more pix.

Thanks to everyone here for your ideas and support. I've learned a great deal while doing this project, mostly the scope of my own ignorance.

Mark