how do i get it off?????
how do i get it off?????
trying priming it awhile to get it hot? Blow dryer? Email them?
Sorry to hear that red.sky but maybe this is the best reason to not change from Arctic Silver....
;) Dynamite............. :explode2:
:toast:
well....
i need to get it off because i need to remove the cpu and block... i have no other parts in the case
...i'm so sorry...
:ROTF:
Im sure you tried to twist it right? I remember AS5 not wanting to come off either.
that stuff is a :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana: to get off :( i had it on my opteron for a while. it tends to dry up and then ur stuck:( i just twisted it, made a pretty loud crack when it came off though the cpu still works:)
i vote for twist n pull action
pulling it will just yank it out the socket if it's bonded tegether well. Dnottis has probably the best idea, Dual prime/cpu burn for a few hours to really heat it, then instantly kill the power (so it doesn't cool down) and proceed to twist the block with the cpu in the socket.
Approach number 2) does the catharG4 have any plastic parts on it or is it entirely metal? If metal then you could clamp the cpu in a vice with the IHS sticking out and wedge in a strong metal bar/s of sorts (the longer the bar/s the better leverage and hasteloy or similar strong steel is probably best), heat the cpu block with a blow torch or something similar to heat it up and keep a constant large amount of weight hanging on the bars (or you could put your own bodyweight on it but it may be hot, it should just flick the block off. Although that's the xtreme (and my) way and it would have to be bonded together pretty strong to withstand it but your unlikely to kill anything that way, my guess would be if the bond was that strong the block would just rip the IHS off the cpu. Personally I think approach one will work though :D :toast:.
definitely use twist-n-pull :O
my gawd... well, this is xtremesystems, exactly the place for people like mel...
Slaper on ebay and buy a new one! Or try a very thin blade run under it.
woohoo G4 and opty 165 combo fs... who's in?
well... i will try to just run the pump and heat the rad a little to heat up the loop (i have a 200w psu atm)
if only i could remove the cpu from the socket with the block still attached
if the cpu is off, how much heat can it handle?
get one of those thin razorblades, the flexible ones.
thats what i used.. I had my 754 athlon stuck on a CM hsf with liquid pro. Took me a while but I got there. I just kept on shoving the flexi razor in all sides, did a little twist and pull action and eventually it came off. I wouldnt use a regular razor blade though,wouldnt wanna ruin your g4
just turn on pc keep the pump off wait a few sec turn off and the remove...
if anything goes bad its not my fault
That's what I do and I haven't broken anything yet....Quote:
Originally Posted by leviathan18
Lol how bout a wee hammer & chisel???
vote for buying a new one...
the surgical knife, razor very sharp on all sides...
Garrotte it with a thin guitar/piano wire or fishing line?Quote:
Originally Posted by ReD.SkY
You don't.
Dual prime per core, then flip the switch at the back of the pc and give it a mighty yank.
AMD 64 have a thermal cutoff in case you happen to have it on too long w/o heatsink properly attached. Usually it will cut off in 7 to 10 seconds after a cold unit if powered up. Have to remember that it takes several seconds for that IHS to get to 70C.Quote:
Originally Posted by ReD.SkY
If you don't care for your motherboard you could leave the CPU attached to it while pulling as hard as you can on the the G4. :)
Next time, A...........S...........5
I really love the fact that people seem more concerned about the waterblock then the processor or board........ just heat it and twist it off
twisting while dual priming, and no luck
i emailed coollabs...
Let us know what they say.
Meh, they prolly wont even respond. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by InTheFlow
Yo Red...how goes it? Did you get it off yet? You know you are scaring me b/c I am using the same stuff on/with my Scythe Infinity. Now I know I won't be using it on my G5 when I get it back.
So consider your little ordeal a lesson learned for the rest of us. :D
nope... im just chillin and waiting for a response from cool labs
how hot did you get it?
why are you trying to heat it up with prime when all you need to do is disconect
the block from the loop(or leave the pump off) and boot into the bios and wach the temps rise.
Your CPU has IHS on or off? If it's still on a serious twist shouldn't damage the core. If it's off, i wonder how it could form such a strong bond on a small surface :confused:.
Submerge the whole mess in isopropol alchol overnight. Cant hurt to try.
the IHS is on, but, im more worried of damaging my cpu's pins or my mobo
and i got it up to about 40c
umm hell noQuote:
Originally Posted by ak_47_boy
just leave the pump off and sit in bios until like 60 something degrees then quickly switch the psu off and twist. Just put the cpu back to stock clocks and vcore before you heat it into 60's.
well, i dont need to remove the block yet, i can wait till i receive my new case and i clean my waterblocks.
umm why not? there is no possible way isopropol could harm a cpu. I always dunk my cpu to clean off lapping dust & oil from fingers, just let it dry.Quote:
Originally Posted by ReD.SkY
remove the IHS, blowtorch the IHS from the bottom, violently wrench at with pliers, etc. all while sparing the bottom of the block
or i could just twist and pull... :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloody_Sorcerer
Your best bet is to prime and pull. I had this problem with my 3500 and had to heat it to about 72c before I was able to get it off. It got to the point where I unhooked the heatsink clamps and the heatsink was still cooling but believe me my hand was on the off switch just incase it suddenly fell of. I ran a prime for a good 15 mintues at elevated voltage and burned, clicked off, gently twisted and pulled, and repeated the process 2 or 3 times until it finally came off. I did bend the pins slightly but a credit card fixed that. Ended up selling the processor to my brother who still uses it today. I have also completely submerged my 3500 in 99% isopropyl while cleaning it and it was fine. Doing that while its in the motherboard would be difficult. If you can find some adhesive remover that contains nitroethane or nitromethane that would probably help. I don't now if it would hurt other components on the mb.
Is this liquid metal stuff just a disaster or what? sigh :(
use the smallest piano wire you can and re lap the block if nessacary [sp?]
and dont twist and pull, youll bend every pin, just twist [no pull] and it will break free, if not twist harder
Quote:
Originally Posted by ReD.SkY
it would not hurt it at all.....hell I soaked a naked 170 opteron a while back in lighter fluid and still running it to this day...alcohol would not hurt it as long as it was completely dry...:clap: :woot:
i know, but thats too extreme for me
besides, wouldn't some of the liquid metal dissolve into the alcohol making it conductive?
It's possible, if you expose it to alcohol then rinse it off with a 2nd or 3rd wash. I would try using 99% alcohol if you can find it.Quote:
Originally Posted by ReD.SkY
im just going to heat it up to 60c, then twist... but not until im ready to redo my loop
What sucks is you might have to lap the bottom of the block to get the Coolabs :banana::banana::banana::banana: off. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by ReD.SkY
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickS
ouch. Thats the kicker :slapass:
lol this thread is funny. i dont understand how much advantage LM gives you over AS5? can take of 10C @ load vs as5?
Eazy way to heat it up is not to turn WC pump on, your CPu will heatup quick even @ low Vcore so you dont have to risk overvolting it. Then just twist and pool :hrhr:
And this company gives no warning about the sticky properties of this stuff?
I would be all over them demanding money back for the product and anything that it has damaged. :mad:
The stuff is bonded (probably chemically) to the stuff it touches.... so heating won't do much...
Ive got it on my naked A64 and X800. hope I don't have this problem when it comes time to remove it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Anemone
sure throw your computer in the pool wen the twisting dont work:nono:Quote:
Originally Posted by railer
:rotf:
I used some metal stuff that came in a suringe. It stained the whole top of the processor, I dont think ill be able to get it RMA'ed if i needed. I'd stick with AS5 from now on.
http://www.frozencpu.com/thr-26.html
This stuff is the devil.. I actually got a screw driver, and put it on the IHS gave it a nice knock, and it plopped off.
~Mike
Edit: BTW when i did this there was no damage to the CPU at all. wOOt
:lastweek:
Good lawd!
thats awful! screw liquid metal, ... and I was considering it too :eek:
I don't get why so few people have heard of the fact that liquid metal does this...
http://img226.imageshack.us/img226/5...0073nj4.th.jpg
Did some lapping , its copper underneath, I have bought some liquid pro and I am going to try it, the hsf is copper and so is the core 2 duo
:lol: :lol: :lol:
this is why you don't use liquid metal on your cpu!
I use coollaboratory liquid metal. Had it on my opty for half a year with BT TT on. Just twist and pull to get heatsink off - don`t be affraid to use force on twisting :)...not the hammer of course :lol:
BTW it`s on chipset too...with stock DFI NF4 cooler (lapped) - aluminum I guess. Been there for about 3-4 months. Temps are good :D Haven`t took it off to check on corossion yet
lol Cooper... when a company warns you, they do it for a reason... lol
your chipset cooler is going to be a donut :P
Use a heat gun. Let the cpu cool down before starting it. A heat gun is one of the most important tools when modding PC's.
Red whats up Bruddah! Did you get it off yet? If so, how did you do it?
What did Cool Labs say?
i had no reply... so yesterday i sent a "happy" email to them
no, its not off yet... but i have a resolution.
NOBODY EVER USE COOLLABORATORY LIQUID METAL EVER!!!!
I ran at stock volts and disconencted pump.. it went up to 48C i twisted HARD my thumbs are sore. i didnt quite use enough power that i used my biceps... just forearm and wrist, and it wont budge
Damned I have had this stuff on my naked core for over 2.5 months now under liquid cooling. After reading your thread, I panicked and checked mine out and it was not stuck(thanks goodness).
It was cold and I had to twist it but... it was not more stuck than my last batch of AS5. Another thing also, someone mentioned it was really hard to clean but I rubbed it with a camel skin cloth and a bit of acetone and it rubbed right off on both surfaces. There is however a tiny bit of residue which seems to of filled some tiny depressions on the die but I don't care much about that.
I wonder why your surfaces have fused like this. I am using a Storm waterblock on a naked 165. Needless to say I reapplied the stuff and remounted everything :)
I wonder if perhaps your didn't have any residue on your core or waterblock surface when you mounted it to cause a reaction?
I should add also that my core has never seen a day past 39c :) perhaps heat plays a factor in this?
same here with never going over 38C
but i twisted :banana::banana::banana::banana:ing hard... i used my wrist and forearm to not rip the mobo in half... and the whole socket was flexing.
Red...mine came off extremely easy. The hardest part about taking my heatsink off was trying to get the clasp off of the motherboard mount.
It cleaned off the heatsink (Scythe Infinity) and cpu (w/ IHS) very easy.
Here are my pics before and after cleaning.
Before Cleaning:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...lpremoval1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...lpremoval2.jpg
After Cleaning:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...lpremoval4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...lpremoval3.jpg
As you can see the copper has some silver spots. The CPU cleaned up very nice. There are a few small spots on the IHS that were not there before. Overall there were no problems.
Are you sure you didn't apply some of your "secret sauce" with the liquid metal? :D
:banana::banana::banana::banana: ok i got it off :banana::banana::banana::banana:
i twisted it really hard for a very long time, then i tryed to pull up and it worked
shonuff, how did u clean it?
I cleaned with a paper towel first followed by some acetone. I got the acetone from Sally Beauty Supply a while back.
Red I wonder what you did different to cause it to stick like that? Anyway…from now on I am going back to Ceramique. The more reviews I see on Liquid Metal the more it reveals itself to be “As good as” what we have been using.
You have "in-coming".Quote:
Originally Posted by ReD.SkY
:clap: :toast: Ok good...now throw that $hit away and only use AS5...
Quote:
Originally Posted by ReD.SkY
lol ima ebay the rest of it ;)
@shonuff i used some nail polish remover, but it said it was non-acetone, so i think i need some real acetone
No keep it! you can use it for permanent heat sinks that way you don't need to get epoxy :D
lol i think it only bonds to metal
Pictures?