**Official ABIT IP-35 Pro Review/Overclock/Guide Thread**

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GameGuru

Anyone know if there's a Vdroop pencil mod for this board or just the solder mod. I was going to attempt the solder mod but holy donkey turds batman, talk about soldering to the size of pencil dot. :eek: How are people pulling this off.

---

I suggest you don't follow AIK's decision to use such a crap gun as he must be special and truely has "Balls of Steel"
For your help:

I had to use this with the supplied solder (it had the finest tip I could find): http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

I also used this maginfying glass. Yet the job was still scary:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
I just noticed you already bought it. You must center the glass about 3 inches from the target and your eye must be right on the lens to see clearly. Use a headlamp like this too see clear. I used this, I think from Lowes http://store.karstsports.com/enlhe.html. It was $13

I for the life of me cannot get the G.SKILL 6400HZ to post - I keep getting a C1 error and it is pissing me off as they can do 1200 at 2.4v and I know that they are good. updated to latest beta bios FYI

Go back to the official recent Bios:)

since there are 2300 posts - I am going to ask this question and then search, are there known issues with cpu-z as my computer locks up after I load it (the latest) no matter what the settings. like taking a SS of my benchmarks and opening up CPU-Z for info.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Brother Esau

Go back to the official recent Bios:)

---

thats a no go on the memory and i set the BIOS mem voltage to 2.2v and it was a no go:down:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TheGoat Eater

since there are 2300 posts - I am going to ask this question and then search, are there known issues with cpu-z as my computer locks up after I load it (the latest) no matter what the settings. like taking a SS of my benchmarks and opening up CPU-Z for info.

---

Yes with v1.38 & below use v1.41 http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php.

CN

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by C-N

Yes with v1.38 & below use v1.41 http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php.

CN

---

i am using the latest and still getting trouble:shrug:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GameGuru

\Maybe I was using the wrong size of wire :shrug:

---

The BEST kind of wire for this mod is simply an IDE wire. That's what I used. They are small and are PERFECT for the job :D I think I'm gonna create a little guide for everyone on how to do this mod the easier way so I can save you all the headache ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by scwam

I suggest you don't follow AIK's decision to use such a crap gun as he must be special and truely has "Balls of Steel"
For your help:

I had to use this with the supplied solder (it had the finest tip I could find): http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

I also used this maginfying glass. Yet the job was still scary:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
I just noticed you already bought it. You must center the glass about 3 inches from the target and your eye must be right on the lens to see clearly. Use a headlamp like this too see clear. I used this, I think from Lowes http://store.karstsports.com/enlhe.html. It was $13

---

This is another option. 19.95 from Hobby Lobby. I plan to practice abit (no pun intended ;) ) before i try this. Like you said, damn thise things are small.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Alik4041

The BEST kind of wire for this mod is simply an IDE wire. That's what I used. They are small and are PERFECT for the job :D I think I'm gonna create a little guide for everyone on how to do this mod the easier way so I can save you all the headache ;)

---

I will look forward to a guide. I like "easier". I have never attempted a hard mod before. Pencil, yes, on a X800 video card and that was succesful. But I have to do something. This board has enough droop to make it necessary.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TheGoat Eater

i am using the latest and still getting trouble:shrug:

---

yeah even the newest cpu-z 1.41 crashes my box (xp64 4GB) within a few mins.... at o/c or default speeds

bios 1.1 & uguru 3.04

Amigan

edit to add version #'s

Back to my "8.2" enable ATX Powersupply problems. I Installed an EK waterblock last night and after leak testing all night (no leaks), I reconnect all the power cables and she won't POST. Does anyone have any ideas why this is happening? The only thing left for me to do is buy another PSU. Ive tried clearing the CMOS and taking the battery out, but that didnt even work this time.

thanks

scott

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GameGuru

Thats funny because I went and actually bought a magnifying glass here from Radio Shack just to do this mod as well as my 8800GTX but damn even with a magnifying glass it's so frikin small. Maybe I was using the wrong size of wire :shrug:

---

Hate to side-track this thread, but what's the 8800GTX mod you speak of?
Thanks. ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AstroCreep

Hate to side-track this thread, but what's the 8800GTX mod you speak of?
Thanks. ;)

---

Probably this volt mod.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=157093

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TheGoat Eater

I for the life of me cannot get the G.SKILL 6400HZ to post - I keep getting a C1 error and it is pissing me off as they can do 1200 at 2.4v and I know that they are good. updated to latest beta bios FYI

---

do u have 4gb? either way take all the memory out. do a full clear CMOS. Then try updating to 11 offcial bios with these handles. Example

awdflash m629b_11.bin /cd/cp/cc/py/cks/sn/wb/e

power down, if u have 4 gb just boot with 2 sticks..set your voltage. reboot put the rest of ur sticks in. it should work

i had the C1 hang for the first time on a brand new ip35. that cleared up the issue

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by strange|ife

do u have 4gb? either way take all the memory out. do a full clear CMOS. Then try updating to 11 offcial bios with these handles. Example

awdflash m629b_11.bin /cd/cp/cc/py/cks/sn/wb/e

power down, if u have 4 gb just boot with 2 sticks..set your voltage. reboot put the rest of ur sticks in. it should work

i had the C1 hang for the first time on a brand new ip35. that cleared up the issue

---

Not trying to make you look bad but...... NO SPACING BETWEEN SYNTAX'S IS NO GOOD!


When Flashing from DOS and using Switching/Parameters I always flash twice this way everything gets written over twice and produces a cleaner Flash with less chance of anything not taking properly and less chance of failure! Remember Do a FULL Clear Cmos before flashing! That means remove the Battery, place the Jumper to clear Position, and Move the Clear Cmos Switch on the back of the Mobo to clear position and DO NOT set you're Ram Voltage to man spec just load optimized defaults once you power on after Clearing Cmos Before Flashing! Make sure you use a PS2 Keyboard for the Flash too!

Like This>>>>


What I find that works best when Flashing Bios is these switches for this board in this order and a added switch /E which returns you to A:\ Prompt at that time I repeat the Process and FLASH a second time to make sure that all Parameters were Overwritten and Updated properly, which in return results in a cleaner Flash!

AWDFLASH.EXE M629B_11.BIN /CD /CP /CC /PY /CKS /SN /WB /E

After second Flash Power Down Manually and REPEAT the Clear Cmos Process you did prior to Flashing ...Please :up:

Spincycle...This board seem to have problems with waterblocks cos from what ive seen its peeps with WC thats having problem of boards not booting..... Guessing code 8.7? Thought I was overtightening them before but not so sure now cos Im on my 6th board..... Seem to happen a few days after I flash the bios so Im sticking to the stock one for a while....

As for the voltmod, I find placing a couple of layers of electrical tape just below the solderpoint really helps... it also makes sure you dont let the same wire touch both sides of the resistor.... I used a cheap $10 iron but it came with a fairly pointed tip, I think the most important thing is to have a clean tip everytime you use it.... and never let the gun touch the resistor too long, the solder should melt as soon as you touch it.....

Thanks Luihed. I'm still not sure why waterblocks instead of Air cooling would cause a "8.2" ATX PSU error. I do have the CPU waterblock fairly tight on the MB. I'll try loosing the screws a bit and see how that works. Report back later. Anyone elese have any ideas?

Vdroop mod guide in the works, but I'm still hesitant whether I want to take my motherboard out of the case, remove the mod, then re-attach it :rolleyes: I might just use ms paint or something to show the easier way of doing it :cool:

Does anyone have the TR Ultra-120 in an Antec P182 case? I was thinking, would you get lower temps if you mounted the heatsink horizontally with the fan under it blowing upwards?

This way hot air wouldn't blow straight on the PWM heatsink, and at the same time you would remove hot air from the heatsink on the northbridge.

Changing the pressure on the CPU block didnt change anything? At this point it looks like im going to RMA the board unless anyone has any other suggestions as to why the "8.2" post code keeps occuring. I really like this mobo and would rather not RMA the board.

Its weird but if you do a search on people having issues with thier IP35 not booting, a majority of them are running water.... When this happened to me I dont even care what the post code is cos Ive had 8.7 twice 8.3, 9.9 and C1..... Love the mobo as well but one more time and Im gone....

What divider works best for this board? I know that the strap changes with the divider, but which one is better for the 1066 and 1333 strap? :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SpinCykle

Back to my "8.2" enable ATX Powersupply problems. I Installed an EK waterblock last night and after leak testing all night (no leaks), I reconnect all the power cables and she won't POST. Does anyone have any ideas why this is happening?

---

did you disable fan monitoring & shut down on low rpm for the CPUFan header?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Brother Esau

Not trying to make you look bad but...... NO SPACING BETWEEN SYNTAX'S IS NO GOOD!




Like This>>>>


What I find that works best when Flashing Bios is these switches for this board in this order and a added switch /E which returns you to A:\ Prompt at that time I repeat the Process and FLASH a second time to make sure that all Parameters were Overwritten and Updated properly, which in return results in a cleaner Flash!

AWDFLASH.EXE M629B_11.BIN /CD /CP /CC /PY /CKS /SN /WB /E

After second Flash Power Down Manually and REPEAT the Clear Cmos Process you did prior to Flashing ...Please :up:

---

whatever! iam lazy. but yes when doing the actual flash you could use spacing.