shortest tubing always wins, loop order temp variations generally arent measurable apart from in testbeds. but if youre paranoid about it, try both... only way to be 100% sure for your specific case.
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shortest tubing always wins, loop order temp variations generally arent measurable apart from in testbeds. but if youre paranoid about it, try both... only way to be 100% sure for your specific case.
We are at 8 psu's :( 2 more before we hit the magic #.
Come on ppl :)
While we are at it, how does the Meanwell connect to mains power? With a normal 3pin powercord? I read on the Meanwell site that it has a 110-230V switch so the local power overhere shouldn't be a problem.
Best to let the pump run 24/7 or add a switch relay when you poweron the computer?
If so, what relay is best.
I used a regular PSU power cord, cut both ends off. There are 3 wires in the cord, Black, White and Green. Black = N (negative) White = L (live) and Green is ground. This goes into the 24v PSU. For the other side of the cord, I took out the SOCKET of an old PSU, just the piece that the Power cord plugs into, it has 3 prongs on the backside of it. Connect the Black, White and Green to the poper prongs. Obviously, you would need to make a hole in the case to mount the socket to. Once the PSU is wired to the power socket, you just use a regular PSU cord to power the 24V PSU which powers the pump. So in essence, I have 2 PSU cords running to my machine, one for the main PSU and one to the 24v psu. If I shutdown to do a small tweak that doesnt require my case to be put up on the bench, I don't bother unplugging the 24v PSU...
http://www.anonforums.com/builds/bla...rd30/24psu.jpg
Ya know, you could very easily wire it into the PSU so that it turns on and off with the system. That's what I did when I was running my panworld.
Yes you could, but I don't want the pump going on and off that often.Quote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
Thats what i'm thinking. According the the RD manual, it shouldn't be turned off/on frequently... So I'm thinking letting it run on its own, with a maybe an internal cabinet switch to turn off for maintenance etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by nikhsub1
Quote:
Originally Posted by nikhsub1
I like your idea for the PSU socket that's cool :cool:
But I can't help but correct your wiring scheme. In the cord Black goes to L (Line or Live), White goes to N (Neutral) and Green goes to Ground. It's a NEC standard color code (I'm an electrician by trade). Because you are using a full wave rectifier to change the AC to DC it may not perform much different, but the safety precautions built in will not work correctly :eek:
So you are saying I have the damn thing hooked up wrong? LMFAO. Hmm, guess it works but if it is incorrect, why does it even run?? So you suggest I change the black to L and the white to N?Quote:
Originally Posted by LazyBum
Read his post, he actually answered all your questions :slapass:Quote:
Originally Posted by nikhsub1
Not worried at all. Generally speaking i turn my pc on when i come back from holidays and turn it off when i leave. I once left laptop running non-stop for 5 and a half months when it was the only pc I had... and i mean non-stop... no reboots, no standbys, no hibernations...
My desktop power cycles more often from power failures.
Well the transformer inside that changes the 120V AC to 24V AC doesn't care which end of the coil is 0V to ground and which end is 120V to ground. It's still getting 120 volts difference in potential between teh two ends. Once you have it reduced to 24V AC, it is run through a full wave rectifier to change it over to DC, along with a bunch of capacitors and stuff for filtering and to smooth the line out, remove the ripple.Quote:
Originally Posted by nikhsub1
Put the Black one on L and the white one on N. For the plug, the wider plug is white (N) and the narrower one is black (L), with the green ground on the bottom (duh):p:
Update, we are at 8 PSU's!! 2 more for the magic #, go get your buddies to buy 2!
edit : (cause someone backed out if your wondering)
Did you get the pumps? :D
i think i decided on most of my remaining setup(already settled on iwaki rd 30 and s-150 as its power source...will try to undervolt it too so it doesn't dump as much heat in the water)
CPU-Swiftech Storm Rev 2
GPU-Swiftech MCW60 w/ Ramcoolers
Rad-ThermoChill PA120.3(Panaflo M1A)
12 Feet of Masterkleer Tubing 7/16" ID 5/8" OD
now the only thing i need is a t-line, coolant for it, and someone earlier recommended 1/2 barb but im not sure what they do exactly, ill assume they are the clamps for the tubing. if anyone has any recommendation or input on this setup it would be greatly appreciated as this is my first WC setup. thanks guys and can't wait to finally get started once we get pumps and psu's :>
Update :
I guess we are stuck at 8 guys for psu's. Looks like we are paying 45 for them unfortunately. Pumps aren't here yet, gonna give the guy a call monday and see what the hold up is, they are getting drop shipped to me from the factory.
Here's who we have for psu's :
Wildeye
LazyBum
Situman
Jester FPS
Chunkylover77
Ocme
Djackson
and of course me.
Hell, if 1 more person gets one, I'll get 2 so we have 10. (since I'm gonna have 2 pumps anyway)
How are these other guys gonna power their pump? 12-24 converter?
I will have to get me a PSU (or two actually, since I bought two pumps from you) one way or the other. I'm not that into this thing though, so I'd love to get an update. What PSU is recommended? Price? Shipping (ie will it ship with my pumps... so shipping is the same)? etc etc?Quote:
Originally Posted by fareastgq
What we all got in the list above is what is recommended, else we would have gotten something else...
You would do us a huge favour getting one or two, as the price comes down.
The Meanwells has a voltage regulator switch that makes it compatible with the power in Europe, so there wont be any problem with that.
So you are saying 150 watt (6.25A @ 24v) is enough? Although RD-30 needs 10A to "boot"? What about adjustable voltage? How much can I adjust it? Can I lower voltage to, say, 12v if I wish? What about PSU fan/noise of this 24v PSU? Is it fanless/noiseless? etc,etc?Quote:
Originally Posted by WildEye
Any linky to this Mean Well S-150?
Thanks
~ Kris
Check out posts around #178...Quote:
Originally Posted by krille
Link to psu, which has been linked in this thread before:
http://www.power-factor-1st.com/shop...ies/s-150.html
http://www.power-factor-1st.com/shop...ies/s-150.htmlQuote:
DC adjustment range: ±10% rated output voltage
Wouldn't this only allow for undervolting to 24v * 0.9 = 21.6v? I was hoping for maybe ~18v or even lower?
And is the RD-30 100% guaranteed to start up at 6.5a since it's rated for 10a? I wouldn't want a half-assed setup.
According the the RD-30 manual - Minimum starting voltage is 21.6 VDC, Usable voltage is listed as 13-24 VDC (after startup - so you need to have some adjusting every time to you start the pump if you want to run it below 21.6 VDC.)
So I think thats enough.
I suppose we could ask fareastgq to run a test on the powersupply / pump before he ships them?
EDIT: oops :=)
LOL! :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by WildEye
Anyway, if that's the case (21.6VDC starting voltage), I suppose the RD-20 will be the more silent option. I thought the RD-30 had best heat dump / flow rate at 18v? I'm quite sure Cathar or someone came up with this conclusion. Perhaps you have to start it up with 22V and then lower it when it's already running to 18v?
Well it lists the Starting voltage is the same for all units. (as a Note #5 under the specs for all the models)Quote:
Originally Posted by krille
I suppose its best at 18V, but it cannot start at that level, so you would have to adjust it to 18V after you start it.