Anyone know how to Vmod the board for more Vdimm and more Vdd ? (talking rev 1.2)
The Rev 1.2 is really great. But I need more Vdd :\
Edit: Sorry...asking stupid questions. Have found it now under...yes that's right...Vmod guides :rolleyes:
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Anyone know how to Vmod the board for more Vdimm and more Vdd ? (talking rev 1.2)
The Rev 1.2 is really great. But I need more Vdd :\
Edit: Sorry...asking stupid questions. Have found it now under...yes that's right...Vmod guides :rolleyes:
Hmm anyone tried this with a Barton cpu? I had a quick look in this topic - but couldn really find one... Normally this shouldn't do any harm - but you never know smth changed - just to be sure ;)
I'm not sure if this could fix the following prob:
When running my ram sync with fsb - RAM goes op to 354mhz (177mhz fsb) - when running async it locks up above 333mhz - doesn't even boot anymore
OK, so I stopped reading at page 4. :) So please shoot me if this has already been suggested.
What I wanted to suggest is burning the bridge with a 9V battery r something like that. This was done to break bridges on Thunderbird CPU's with a ceramic packaging, but I think this might work with these organic packages too. It certainly is a safer way to break the bridges, IF it were known to do no harm to the rest of the CPU.
Has anyone tried this?
Gr, SuSEQ
Yups - if you would have read just a bit further - you would have known :pQuote:
Originally posted by SuSEQ
blablabla
Has anyone tried this?
Gr, SuSEQ
PS: don't have that much posts here he? ;) :D
BANG! :DQuote:
Originally posted by SuSEQ
OK, so I stopped reading at page 4. :) So please shoot me if this has already been suggested.
:frag:
I have a Bartom 3000+ and I can run at 224x10.5 =2338.63mhz
445.45mhz DDR without the L12 cut. It runs Prime95 torture test
36hrs straight. I'm tempted to cut it to try for higher speed but
it's so stable now I hate doing it.
I get 3dmark score 16350
i always thought it was pretty funny when callers say that and since i never call i ni thought id use it in the forum.
ive seen success with abit and asus baords and i just ordered(get it Sat) asus a7n8x deluxe with a XP2200.
i already got the cpu and it seems the L1's are all closed so my question is will i need to do the L3 #5 bridge and if so what success have you guys had with the XP2200?
ive looked but have not seen much on this cpu.
will i be lucky to set it to its default X and fsb to 166?
i had gotten away from OC'ing till my new setup. last one was ap3 600 to 800.
guess thats what happens when kids come in the picture.
funny but this past week a friend said each child you have is not a multiple but is exponential in time away from hobbies, noise ect.
HAHA
true, so true
feels good to be involved again
peanstein
Howdy, this is interesting info. I have a KT400 chipset m/b the FIC AN19E, with the latest VMA46 BIOS which claims to fully support the FSB333 Barton chips. So I got me a 2500+, and it posted at 166 and ran fine for 5 or 6 hours. then the machine rebooted, and I can't even boot to dos at FSB of 333. I had to manually change the FSB to 266, and change the multiplier to 15x, so it now boots at 2004Mhz, and posts as a 2600+. I'm wondering if this mod would allow me to run the chip at it's proper settings without problems. But I must admit I am somewhat reluctant to cut me chip, at least until I've had a chance to see if it runs properly in a NForce2 m/b.
Meanwhile, thanks for the excellent info, and I'll report back once I've tried anything.
If it won't run at spec then there's either something wrong with the cpu or mobo. I wouldn't cut the bridge just in the hope of getting it to run at the speed it should, find out which part is faulty and get it replaced under warranty.
Remember, most of us have been doing this to get a 166fsb cpu to run at over 185. It works fine at stock speed.
I assume the rest of your system (ram, cooler, psu) is up to scratch?
Philster
My money goes on the FIC being the cause.
FIC= First In Crapolla
Well, my FIC is just a clone of the compariable Epox, since FIC makes the m/bs for them. Since I bought my first VA-503+ for my AMD K6-2 chip I've bought hundreds of them, and have only RMA'ed one in all that time. In that case, the client's rabbit smothered the machine, and it died from overheating.
In any case, I have fixed the problem. I replaced my 350w ps with a 400w, and the machine now boots up at the 333FSB just fine, and I've oc'ed it to 12x so it's running at 2000Mhz. I got the older ps at Fry's, and have never had a problem with it, running first a Athlon 1.2 in it originally, and since I've run a 1500+, 1700+, 1900+, 2100+ and 2200+ without any problem. But it appears it can't handle a Barton, go figure.
I put this "bad" 350w ps into a box with a Athlon 1.4 gig and power hungry SCSI subsystem, and that box has no trouble with it.
Now all I need is one of them there 400Mhz FSB Bartons......
Ok does that mean that mine 2200xp A-Core will be doing better? For @ it is stable at 2g right now but wont go higher it is on a Asus A7N8X at 211MHZ 211FSBX2 well if so I will cut the L12 let me know bs IAM confused sorry if this is a stupid Q
This fix is for cpus that run at a default fsb of 166, not 133 like your xp2200. The bridge is already cut on a 133 cpu.Quote:
Originally posted by Volcom
Ok does that mean that mine 2200xp A-Core will be doing better? For @ it is stable at 2g right now but wont go higher it is on a Asus A7N8X at 211MHZ 211FSBX2 well if so I will cut the L12 let me know bs IAM confused sorry if this is a stupid Q
Hmm still dont really know how to do the 9v battery trick... :(
Do i have to connect a wire to each of both the gold dots on top and below the bridges?
Pls somebody post some pics for me ;)
Yes. You'll need two fine probes to touch to the dots (some ppl use needles or a single strand of stiff wire), steady hands, and maybe a magnifying glass or similar to see what you're doing. You may need to give the dots a light rub with fine sandpaper first to ensure you get a good contact.Quote:
Originally posted by serialkiller
Hmm still dont really know how to do the 9v battery trick... :(
Do i have to connect a wire to each of both the gold dots on top and below the bridges?
I've not seen any pics anywhere but I hope that makes it clear enough. The two dots you want are the ones under the yellow arrow in the first post of this thread.
I have an interesting question for those of you who know more than me.
If the L12 connection for the 133 FSB chips ran:
Cut-Connected-Cut-Connected
and the 166 FSB chips L12 bridges ran:
Cut-Connected-Connected-Connected
and from what I see, the L12 on the 200FSB chips run
connected-connected-connected-connected.
Instead of cutting my 3rd L12 bridge to drop down to 133 so I can OC my XP3000 to 200FSB on a Rev 1.2 NF7-S, if I connect all the bridges, I should see 200FSB stock, yes? If so, will the 1.2 support 400 FSB?
I would think if that works, all I would have to do is lower my multiplier down from 12.5 to 11 to achieve 200 X 11.
Sound correct? Any thoughts?
I'll be interested in any feedback.
_________________
NF7-S rev 1.2 Flashed to beta 19 Bios, Nvidia Nforce 2.41 Drivers
XP 3000 Barton
CoolerMaster HSC-V62
512 x 2 Corsair TWINX1024-3200LL
2 x 80G Seagate Barracuda Serial ATA V Raid 0 with .28 drivers
1 x 40G Western Digital ATA 100
AIW 9700 Pro
Audigy Platinum
Lite On LTR 52246S
Interesting question, I don't know if anybody has tried this. I guess you're thinking that connecting bridges is easier (and safer) than cutting them?
There is an article here that says ABit officially support 200fsb cpu's on ALL versions of the NF7. Dunno whether that is true or not. But certainly they all seem able to run 133fsb cpus at 200+ without modifications, and I haven't heard of any problems with the 3200+ on the 1.2.
Please post your results if you try it! :D
Oh, and welcome to xtreme! :toast:
Generally, that is the point. I am not feeling very secure about cutting up my XP 3000. But I am also disappointed that I can not OC much higher than 185 FSB. Maybe I should just buy a rev 2.0 board, but it seems like a waste of money.
I have read about people using conductive paint or grease, any body have a brand recommendation as I am not familiar with either of these.
You can get a kit from here that comes with everything you'll need. http://www.highspeedpc.com Just search for xp unlocking kit.
Here's their guide for using the kit too http://www.highspeedpc.com/XPUnlocki...structions.htm
<ahref="http//www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm">Quote:
Originally posted by JohnnydinLA
I have an interesting question for those of you who know more than me.
If the L12 connection for the 133 FSB chips ran:
Cut-Connected-Cut-Connected
and the 166 FSB chips L12 bridges ran:
Cut-Connected-Connected-Connected
and from what I see, the L12 on the 200FSB chips run
connected-connected-connected-connected.
Instead of cutting my 3rd L12 bridge to drop down to 133 so I can OC my XP3000 to 200FSB on a Rev 1.2 NF7-S, if I connect all the bridges, I should see 200FSB stock, yes? If so, will the 1.2 support 400 FSB?
I would think if that works, all I would have to do is lower my multiplier down from 12.5 to 11 to achieve 200 X 11.
Sound correct? Any thoughts?
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm</a>
Link to FSBSense article.
There you will find that the Code for the FSBSense info comes from the 1st and 3rd L12 bridges only.
Then you will also deduce that open/cut = HI and closed/connected = LO...which finally leads to some new info from your observation...that closed/closed, LO/LO for the 1st and 3rd bridges which was originally listed as "Reserved", is now probably the Code for 200MHz.
However...these are all "only codes" for the System Clock that the CPU was "designed" to be fed to its Multiplier module for the default Multiplier....the L12 code " does not" automatically select the System Clock. That is left to the mobo, it must be "designed to read the FSBSense code" and then to actually set the coded System Clock.
But if "your mobo" specs state compatibility with 200 MHz System Clock...and...you see some FSBSense/"auto-detect" related option in the bios, then we'd agree that you have a good chance of having "your mobo" boot at 200MHz with the closed/closed LO/LO setting of the 1st and 3rd L12s. (We would not touch the other L12s as they might relate to other/unknown functions).
But then again, you should also consider this thread which says you get better performance when the "code" is set for 133MHz, then the actual System Clock has been somehow able to be manually set to its "highest" value.
Hope this is informative/clarifies/helps.
John C.
Conductive paint is preferred, I use this but car defogger repair kit is fine. Comes off easily too if it doesn't work, but I think it will.Quote:
Originally posted by JohnnydinLA
I have read about people using conductive paint or grease, any body have a brand recommendation as I am not familiar with either of these.
I found a place that sells silver pens about 45 minutes from me. Won't be able to get there till Saturday. I'll post my results when completed.
Keep fingers crossed!
I cut the bridges on my Barton this morning because i too could'nt get it to run @ 200fsb stable.
I got a craft knife and magnifying glass a went about cutting the bridge, I cut the bridge and popped my cpu back in and hey presto now i can run it @ 200fsb stable:D
Thanks to Praetereo & Aceman for a great thread.
Is cutting the bridge still required when using an AbitNF7s 2.0 and a Barton 2500+? (latest bios, 14 afaik)
I cut my 2600+ for the older NF7, but if its not necesarry any more for fsbs around 230...
tia
No, it'll do just fine with the rev2.0 ;)Quote:
Originally posted by Hausmeister
Is cutting the bridge still required when using an AbitNF7s 2.0 and a Barton 2500+? (latest bios, 14 afaik)