Since you are from Germany you should recognize my user name...SiG (Sauer) fever! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Radical_53
Since you are from Germany you should recognize my user name...SiG (Sauer) fever! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Radical_53
:D I still keep two 9mm replicas that I use for new year's, the cleaning stuff is what I had left from my time at the army :)
Btw., loop is so far finished considering cleaning, everything looks near to brand new (maybe I should polish the tops of the blocks, but no biggie). I just hope that the dirt doesn't come back...
Dirt allways comes back... :p:
I have a really hard time cleaning my BIX 2 rad. The first time I put my system togheter I didn't know you hade to clean the rad so I didn't, and my tubing got all dirty. Took my system apart and flushed the rad with vinegar and distilled water, thought the water looked clean ( only minor particles ). Rebuilt the system, after some days the system was all dirty again. And now its the third time I've taken the system apart to clean it, I've had the rad in vinegar for 48h, flushed with both vinegar and distilled water several times, and the dirt just won't go away. This is getting very annoying. Thinking about buying a whole new rad.
Another disturbing this is that the pump is dirty and I have a hard time cleaning it.
So, now I guess I seriously need som tips on how to properly clean the rad, I've followed the steps MaxxxRacer mentioned in the guide, but they don't seem to help. :cry:
I'm new to watercooling and trying to decide between a res and a t-line. I had it in mind that a T-line would let you bend the hose down below the lowest point of the loop and then the water would just flow out naturally like a syphon. Is this not the case?Quote:
T-Line:
The bleeding process will be lengthened by literally about 100x the time. Bleeding in a reservoir takes a matter of seconds, and with a T-Line it cant take up to several days. Although it can take up to several days, with some care and patience you can get the bleed time to less than an hour.
of course its an open loop so the water would flow down. (pump is off)
but there would still be pockets of water inside the blocks, pump, rad.
for it to act like a syphon, i think the other end should have a supply of water
the other end lower than that supply, with you sucking in water to start the
syphoning process...
For anyone wondering why all of the pictures in the guide are no longer working, something happend with the server and all of the attached pictures are gone. I am working on getting them all back, but in the mean time, I am sorry for the inconvenience.
Well, I'm running into cleaning problems again. Is there any possibility to "over-clean" something? Like too much vinegar hurting the "good" part rendering it useless (I'm not talking about plated stuff like barbs or so).
No matter what I do, I always end up with stained tubing (white stuff on the walls), even if all the parts come out clean with vinegar. I tried various water additives, no additives, cleaning additives, no good result.
I even tried a high pressure steam cleaner (like 180°C or so), still something left on my PA .3.
Is there any chance that this is related to my distilled water? The canister is made of plastic... maybe something washes out the softeners out of plastics and tubing for whatever reason?
bah very hard to clean stuff. maybe next time i'll stick with pure distilled water to avoid whitish stained tubing...
I tried just distilled, gave me just the same problem. First I thought it was WW staining my tubes, but that only makes them slightly red/pink. This stuff is more dull and plain white.
After how much time u experience the staining? Hve u tried different tubes?
I've seen also ppl experiencing this same prob regardless of using just distilled water or including UV or other additives.
This exact problem? Only tried with Masterkleer, as I wanted to get rid of it before using my Tygon.
How much time... as little as 2-3 days.
With masterkleer and pure distilled water I do get gunk on the tubes and have no real idea what the hell it is. I still think its from the radiator but I cant be sure.
same problem here! maybe its the radiator, but maybe its because of the cheap distilled water.
Is it possible that the problem is with Masterclear? Mean this IS cheapo tubing...Quote:
Originally Posted by skaktuss
marauder, the same thing happend when I used tygon.. It appears to happen to all different types of tubing.
Radiator would make sense, you can't see inside and don't know if it's 150% clean.
Still curious why it's white. Using a fresh BI GT, you get funky fresh colors like blue and green when you don't clean it. Red with WW on a high dosis.
But white?
Maybe I should visit a pharmacy, get their distilled water and try that against my gallon canisters of "normal" distilled water.
Then it must be the radiator cause it is the only thing you can't rip apart, but what to use use to clean it then if vinegar and distilled water aren't enough :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
Now this is funny. Yesterday, around 5pm, I put together a little loop to check some blocks. Distilled, some citrus acid, plus some WW. Looked good after testing the first block, put a Storm in, check if it wasn't leaking (EK barbs) and then shut the loop down until this morning.
Now, the water is all milky, yet the tubing is not stained severly so far. You know what? I can't see "white water" anymore :D
I get the same problem. I've used nothing but DI with masterkleer, and the tubing turns foggy white after a couple days. I think I'll cave and pick up some uv-dye as my case has a window and the stained tubing isn't very nice to look at, any harm in that? What are the cons of using a little uv-dye? And how much is ok? I'm, using a Storm, DDC+, MCW60, MCR220.
So then the rad is not the cause.... well that makes things more difficult.. possibly the tubing itself is the problem. Not sure how to test for that though... maybe soak the tubing in distilled water for a while and see what happens.Quote:
Originally Posted by Radical_53
A little UV dye wont hurt anything other than staining everything. that includes the tubes, delrin (thankfully you really cant tell with black delrin) and the copper somewhat. Just make sure to only use a drop or two. From what I have been told the Frozen cpu stuff is the best. I have two bottles of it here but havnt used them as my case is never opened other than for maitinence/upgrades.
Yes, makes it difficult somehow. I don't even know a part that I've been using "all the time", like some little bugger always doing this. Before, I thought it was a leftover aluminium block I had, so I swapped that out too.
I'll check the tubing by soaking a piece of it in different fluids, maybe that helps. I don't remember Tygon being stained this bad, yet there are tons of people using it with the same components I'm running here :confused:
Tygon stains quite a lot too...
I've got a mix of R3603 and S-50-HL Tygon and some MK, and my tubing was clear 2 weeks after install... but now its been sitting still for 2.5 weeks, I wonder what I'll find when I open the case up when I get back tuesday - in my experience everything is fine so long as the loop is moving, its when you let it still that junk happends to me =/
@joe: They do, yes. But *why*... I definitely know that I never had those problems before, "back in the days". Yet I don't have a clue why...
@creidiki: Just what happened to me the other day. Water was flowing, so far "clean". Stopped it in the evening, turned on the next morning -> all cloudy and dirty :(