Does any one have an issue with DRAM being overvolted even if you set the voltage manually?
If i set it to 1.65v, then it jumps between 1.662 and 1.709v. If you watch the DRAM Voltage in BIOS, it changes every few seconds.
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Does any one have an issue with DRAM being overvolted even if you set the voltage manually?
If i set it to 1.65v, then it jumps between 1.662 and 1.709v. If you watch the DRAM Voltage in BIOS, it changes every few seconds.
I was telling myself to keep my hands in pocket and don't bother getting a SB. I had to help a friend of mine put one together with everything brand new (which happens to be an Asus P8P67 Pro, 2600K, Thermaltake 750W Modular, EVGA GTX470, G.Skill RipSaw 2x4GB and a CoolerMaster 690 II Advanced). When that was finished they he left my house, I couldn't keep my feet in the house and so off I went to my local MC. Then my hands simply wouldn't stay put in the pocket so they got out and MC just got richer by almost $500 with an Asus P8P67 Pro and a 2600K L040B305. So now that my pocket is empty, I will beat my hands to death for sure. Let's see what mine can OC to. Setting it up right now actually.
Stay with 1053.
This is a variation of what I experienced. My Pro board came with BIOS 0408 and used to report CPU temp at 24C, and AI Suite II agreed. However, Realtemp reported 32C or so on my cores. When i updated to 1003, the BIOS and AI Suite then showed 32-33C. The latest BIOS also shows 32-33 so right now, I'm thinking this one is the right temperature. Odd how yours has your BIOS not agreeing with AI Suite.
Have you tried a CMOS clear? I actually also had an issue where after flashing, my CPU wasnt speedstepping or turboing correctly and it was messing up my voltage, frequency, and temp readings, but a CMOS clear fixed that.
Hey, I can't install Windows, it keeps freezing just before I get to click to make changes or answer the questions. In the BIOS, SATA is set to ACHI, do I need to change it to IDE? Windows 7 installed smoothly on my friend's PC. What now, did I get a bad board? I hope not!
Same. I can get 4.9 GHz (almost) stable and 5.0 GHz screenshot-able. But I'm already pushing 1.42v vcore. (I definitely do NOT have a golden chip)
I don't think I wanna push it higher to get 5.0 GHz benchable.
I'm in Champaign with subzero ambient temps outside. If I open my window and let the air into my case, my temps just absolutely refuse to go up. :rofl: So I'm not temperature limited in anyway. If I really wanted to, I can take the rig outside and let it freeze. (though I'll have to remove all the HDs to since they'll freeze and condensation will kill them.)
Anyone run into a problem where CPU-Z randomly shows running at 68MHz bus speed? CPU-Z shows 3.3GHz (48 x 68.8MHz) but Super Pi and the like run as if it's at 4.8GHz. Just happened and no amount of reinstalling or rebooting will fix it.
Which version are you using? I think the latest is 1.56.3 beta and should read SB speeds accurately.
http://www.downloadbar.com/CPU-Z_download.htm
It handles 4,8Ghz with prime at 1.35v... Trying to get to 5ghz, i've reached 1.50v(crazy voltage), just to see if it booted... It turns on, but doesn't load Windows...
1,35v for 4,8Ghz I shouldn't be needing that much voltage to 5Ghz, I mean, is it normal to give 1.5v to get 5ghz? In my case?
Got the new EFI 1053 i think, it's worse than the older one :/ Now I need 1.355v for 4.8ghz stable :/
how flasher I'm back on p8p67pro you can not flashtool in bios. 1053 bios, my 2600k multiforme 53, but not in bios 1253rd
then call back on 1053, but it says the BIOS is outdatet
a little help will doo
I have not tried a CMOS clear, but if I remember I'll try it tomorrow. It still shows the same difference in BIOS and software today. All I've done in BIOS is turn the memory to XMP, turn off fan speed alarm and the integrated stuff I won't be using.
Today it's been running Prime95 64-bit all day with no issues. Load temps are 59C with the fans on high, 61 medium and 63 low. I think that puts to rest my concern about too much thermal grease. I've always used the stock coolers in the past with the pre-applied thermal materia. I've used thermal grease in the past, but I just planted a 1/8" line maybe 1/2" long along the length of the silicon area that seemed apparent from the underside. I thought it looked like too much but figured I'd just stress test it before taking it apart and re-applying.
I was going to download the new 1253 BIOS but honestly, that download site provided by the Asus experts is pretty seedy with ads and pop-ups and just plain looks malicious. I haven't heard of anyone getting malware, but I'm in no hurry since it seems to be running Windows 7 solid so far. I may wait till it's more thoroughly tested and posted on the Asus site.
I noticed the Asus tech guys also suggested grabbing the "generic" Intel chipset drivers and MEI drivers on the Intel site for the Intel P67 board. I assume that means Asus did no customization when they published them as Asus OEM drivers?
Perhaps I'll upgrade the BIOS, MEI and chipset stuff then do a CMOS reset and start from scratch and pray lol.
If I end up using raid5 for all my important data, and have a separate standalone drive for OS, is there difference between the Pro and Deluxe for Raid?
More importantly, is it ok to use Raid5 on an O/C rig or is it at risk of being corrupted?
Hi guys,
Between P8P67 and P8P67-Pro, which one should I take?
All I want is 4.6GHz+ out of 2500K coupled with a good HSF.
I don't do SLI/CF so those two look almost the same to me.
I wonder if there are differences between those two in terms of OC?
The prices are 176$ for P8P67 and 216$ for P8P67-Pro.
Those prices sound ridiculous here in VN :(
Thanks for any input :D
BTW: Are we able to flash back the BIOS? It's a shame that Asus doesn't support to bring BIOS back to older versions :down:
I had to do it too, that bios is bugged, if I put my OC to 4.8ghz, sometimes in the BIOS, it only shows me 4.2ghz (multi 42x), or it gives me strange clocks like 4276 or something, everytime I have to OC or test new OC's I have to see everything in the BIOS... :/
Both of those boards have 12 phases, the only difference as I can see is that the PRO has 3 pci-express ports, and has the ability to make 8x 8x crossfire. But if u are like me, then just buy the P8P67, my last board cost me 240€ and I didn't use half of it's features, this cost me 150€ and it's all I need :)
No luck. I did a CMOS clear routine and BIOS still showed 48C idle. I did discover that I had accidentally downloaded and flashed 1003, rather than 1053 that I intended to flash. So, I flashed 1053. Did the CMOS clear cycle yet again, booted into Win7 and restarted. Still 48C in BIOS. I checked and the heatsink and fan air feel barely above room temperature, so I am guessing it is a BIOS reporting error.
I went back into Windows and started Prime95 again, this time I am running Core Temp 0.99.8 in addition to Asus Monitor. Right now, Asus reports 58C with fan on medium, Coretemp reports 55, 60, 59 and 57C with 100% load on all cores. The fan air is warm. At idle it reported 32, 32, 31, 30.
Anyway, so far no other issues. Prime95 ran all day yesterday and overnight with no problems. I benchmarked my C300 128GB with AS SSD. Sequential read was 330MB/s, write was 140MB/s. Overall score was 282 read, 171 write, 597 total. Much better than my X25-M G2 on the previous computer that resulted in scores of 178, 69 and 336 overall.