Gary, just makin sure u can see everything, i know my dad is having a hard time helping me w/ solders and he's only 53! And thank you so much for your advice, this thing would be a POS if you hadn't guided all of us!
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Gary, just makin sure u can see everything, i know my dad is having a hard time helping me w/ solders and he's only 53! And thank you so much for your advice, this thing would be a POS if you hadn't guided all of us!
You are very welcome. :D
On mounting the cooler: Let's imagine that we could build an insulated partition, all the way across, between the cooler and the rest of the system. Let's imagine that our partition is sized so that we can put the original window A/C cover back on, separating it all into two compartments as it was originally.
The cooler could be strapped to the partition, perhaps with a spacer in between to make it easier to open the cooler lid. and if we wanted we could put the whole thing in the window (at least in the summer), keeping the noise and heat outdoors.
then would i have to cut out the control unit and part of the shroud, then put the top unit back on? The cooler sits a good 5-6" off the side, i think i need to shave that shaft on the motor back as far as i can, and then cut part of the shroud that was intended to suck air in over the evap. I'd take it completely out, but then i'd have to build a new motor mount for the condenser fan. ( i wanna just have a switch for the fan, anyone know how to do that pm me) I would love to get it completely put back together kind of, but the cap tube would also be a little big for it
jamaljaco & gary
yea i will reduce the rez. it might develop into a piece of plastic roughly the shape of the evap and probably as close to the actual evap as i can manage. the only thing bothering me with this idea is the size of the pump. either i fit the pump inside that new plastic bowl with only the pump inlet passing through the plastic or i'll have to make that plastic part small enough to fit the pump inbetween evap and plastic.
hm. on another thought, what would be the optimal setup for a radiator type evap like those from the a/c units? i'd think it would be best to have the rez barely big enough for the evap to fit in. so with mrnuke's setup, i'd put something in the empty corners of the rez, to further limit the amount of coolant - and maybe fit the pump into that "something" just so the inlet reaches the coolant and the outlet can be reached.
lol, i work out a lot, and it was a PAIN to get that pump as far down as it would go, i thought i was gonna break the cooler......
Keep in mind that I can't see it from here, so you will be the better judge of what can or cannot be done. :D
Here's another thought: If you look at the original cover, you can see which part is intended to be outdoors and which part is intended to be indoors. The indoor part of the cover could be cut off. Then you could make a partition that goes beyond the width of the unit, mounting the cooler and the controls to that.
Why do you want a switch for the fan?
i'm redoing my water chiller which would hit -20C and i'm now aiming for -40c i'm redoing the evap and wanted to know if i should use a spiral evap or one with 180 turns on it
the res is a iglo playmate if that helps
also i'm getting a digi-cam for Christmas so then i can post some pics of it
As I recall, your chiller has two major problems:Quote:
i'm redoing my water chiller which would hit -20C and i'm now aiming for -40c i'm redoing the evap and wanted to know if i should use a spiral evap or one with 180 turns on it
the res is a iglo playmate if that helps
also i'm getting a digi-cam for Christmas so then i can post some pics of it
1. The cap tube is WAY too restrictive.
2. The reservoir is WAY too big.
And then there is a laundry list of lesser problems.
also there i was klink on the suction line
and the new res i have holds 2 gallons instead of the old on which had 5 gallons
also the evap will be smaller so the cap tube might work better and if it doesn't i will change it to .028 right now its 6ft of .026
i'm also going to try to get R22 to work in this sys
I want a switch for the fan so i can turn it on when i put the compressor on high cool. I think thats why i got it so cheap is that the fan doesn't go on the higest setting. If i could make a switch for it, i could set the compressor to high cool and have the fan blowing across the condenser and hopefully get better results. I'm currently lookin for a piercing valve and a set of gagues. How low do you think she can go?
The size of the evaporator has nothing to do with it. It's about the load and the refrigerant. The .028 cap tube isn't big enough either. Using R12, you need about 10 feet of .042 cap tube.Quote:
also there i was klink on the suction line
and the new res i have holds 2 gallons instead of the old on which had 5 gallons
also the evap will be smaller so the cap tube might work better and if it doesn't i will change it to .028 right now its 6ft of .026
i'm also going to try to get R22 to work in this sys
Using R22, you will need about 8 feet of .036 cap tube.
so if i stay with i have now i will not beable to get past -20C
Frankly, I am surprised that it gets that cold, but I am not surprised that it takes forever to get there.Quote:
so if i stay with i have now i will not beable to get past -20C
This is not like a direct die cap tube. A chiller has a much heavier heat load, therefore it needs a lot more refrigerant flow, hence a less restrictive cap tube. And R12 has less high side pressure to push the refrigerant through, so it needs to be even less restrictive in order to get sufficient flow.
this is alittle off topic but would a 1/4 hp compressor make a good compressor for a water chiller
and do car AC condensors work well on water chiller
Yes, and so would a 1/8 HP compressor, or a 100 HP compressor. And a car A/C condenser is large enough for about ten of these.
sorry i meant would a car evap work as a good condensor for my water chiller
Ok, lets all remember to keep these projects as simple as posible to achieve the desired results. I did most of the obove quoted stuff because I was comfortable with that work. the simplest way to solve your cooler mounting problem would be to mount the whole unit (beer cooler included ) on a sheet of plywood.As for the electrical you would want the fan and compressor on one switch I think. If your not comfortable with that leave it the way it is and just figure out how to remount the switching.Quote:
Originally posted by mrnuke
then would i have to cut out the control unit and part of the shroud, then put the top unit back on? The cooler sits a good 5-6" off the side, i think i need to shave that shaft on the motor back as far as i can, and then cut part of the shroud that was intended to suck air in over the evap. I'd take it completely out, but then i'd have to build a new motor mount for the condenser fan. ( i wanna just have a switch for the fan, anyone know how to do that pm me) I would love to get it completely put back together kind of, but the cap tube would also be a little big for it
ok Sky,are you talking about making an insert or using an object to put into the existing resevoir to displace the coolant? if so great idea.As for your pump I wouldn't pump through or breech that object thus risking leakage. And for the pump can you run that inline? Mounting it outside the resevoir.Running a pickup tube to the bottom of the coolant? Forgive me if I'm a little slow this morning.;) :p:Quote:
Originally posted by sky
jamaljaco & gary
yea i will reduce the rez. it might develop into a piece of plastic roughly the shape of the evap and probably as close to the actual evap as i can manage. the only thing bothering me with this idea is the size of the pump. either i fit the pump inside that new plastic bowl with only the pump inlet passing through the plastic or i'll have to make that plastic part small enough to fit the pump inbetween evap and plastic.
hm. on another thought, what would be the optimal setup for a radiator type evap like those from the a/c units? i'd think it would be best to have the rez barely big enough for the evap to fit in. so with mrnuke's setup, i'd put something in the empty corners of the rez, to further limit the amount of coolant - and maybe fit the pump into that "something" just so the inlet reaches the coolant and the outlet can be reached.
when using R22 would 5ft of .031 workQuote:
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
The size of the evaporator has nothing to do with it. It's about the load and the refrigerant. The .028 cap tube isn't big enough either. Using R12, you need about 10 feet of .042 cap tube.
Using R22, you will need about 8 feet of .036 cap tube.
Yes, that should get you pretty close.Quote:
when using R22 would 5ft of .031 work
also would a Danfoss TL2.5F R134a compressor work well in a water chiller and could it be filled with R22
here is its PDF
http://www.danfoss.com/Compressors/p...3_Cd42b622.pdf
opps sorry i posted the wrong compressor its the danfoss TT2.5F
here is the PDF
http://www.danfoss.com/Compressors/p...3_Cd42q622.pdf
With a compressor that small, I wouldn't expect to get much below 0C, even with R22.
i could get a Tecumseh RKA54 9100btu Compressor instead
would that be loud tho
if i put it in a box and inslute the box will the sound be alot lower
i'm going for an insert, so i can dump my pump in there. then i'll cut a hole into it to put the inlet nozzle through there and finally seal it off.Quote:
Originally posted by jamaljaco
ok Sky,are you talking about making an insert or using an object to put into the existing resevoir to displace the coolant? if so great idea.As for your pump I wouldn't pump through or breech that object thus risking leakage. And for the pump can you run that inline? Mounting it outside the resevoir.Running a pickup tube to the bottom of the coolant? Forgive me if I'm a little slow this morning.;) :p:
btw the pump doesn't need to be submerged, so it's either way. but i'm probably going to fill the insert with water anyway.
ok here's a pic of what i think it might look like
http://www.abi02.de/deepblue2k2/pixx/_remake.jpg
the red part is the insert, the blue parts are pump and tubing. the pump will actually not have any tubing attached to its inlet, as the throughput almost halved when i had it running with a piece of tube there. the inlet nozzle is a pretty strong piece of plastic that protrudes a bit, so it's ideal for sealing.
hm all of this could even be used to dampen the vibration of the pump some more. - as it is right now, the vibration of the pump travels through all of the reservoir and that's not a pretty sound. so i'll probably put that insert (figure something like an icecream can for now) on some rubber feet and drop it in the rez. then the pump will be placed on another set of rubber feet which should quiten it down to inaudible. the seal used for the inlet-nozzle will have rubberish to do the same :).