My EK 280 block didnt come with a back plate. The etailer doesnt even offer them it appears.
Will I be ok with using some spare "Swiftech MC14 VGA Forged Copper Ramsinks" I have on it?
http://www.acousticpc.com/images/a_s...sinks_mc14.jpg
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My EK 280 block didnt come with a back plate. The etailer doesnt even offer them it appears.
Will I be ok with using some spare "Swiftech MC14 VGA Forged Copper Ramsinks" I have on it?
http://www.acousticpc.com/images/a_s...sinks_mc14.jpg
Yes it's ok. I'm sure that's better than the EK back plate.
Are there any US retailers for that back plate yet?
For which backplate? I know DD sells them as a stand alone unit. I am not sure if EVGA sells theirs by itself and I don't think EK is selling one yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zefram0911
EK RAM backplate arrived friday no time to install it yet... will take some piccies tomorrow
where did you buy it?Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
pics asap please!! :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeghoofd
Yes plz... :) Pictures .Pictures...Pictures :)
It's the black alu backplate guys, it's on the EK online shop... ordered it via ekwaterblocks.com and 3 days later it's here (like always very fast shipping)
will install it today and take some piccies lads...
http://users.pandora.be/OAP/P5QDlx/EKBP1.jpg
http://users.pandora.be/OAP/P5QDlx/EKBP2.jpg
http://users.pandora.be/OAP/P5QDlx/EKBP3.jpg
http://users.pandora.be/OAP/P5QDlx/EKBP4.jpg
Backplate has slightly longer screws then the ones from the waterblock...installation is a no brainer...and can be done witout removing the waterblock.... I opted for the Alu backplate as a waterblock on top would have left me very narrow space with the top PCI slot on my P5Q dlx mobo and to avoid the added weight of a copper block ... secondly I have ran the rams barenaked at 1250mhz for a few weeks now, just a 25cm fan in the sidepanel blew some fresh air over them... no hickups there... with the backplate the card is straight and doesn't bend at all...
Top ace job again Eddie !! Clean, sleek and nicel done...
Looks and design is ofcourse personal... I like them as they will do the job nicely...
Just went to Eddy's site and checked them out I have to say they are quite simple and elegant. Very nice.
My pair of EK also arrive today.
Both the block and back plate are nice pieces, and actually I have received the original cutie snail head version. I do indeed find this snail more 'Happy' :ROTF::ROTF: Thanks to Eddie !!!!!
Yet I'm curious why the snail was once abandoned and somehow revitalised.
Can someone give me some advice. I have been building systems and watercooling for years and have never had any major problems. This weeks I bought three EK Waterblocks for my three GTX 280 cards, which I have been running on air in tri-sli. I fitted the blocks (carefully I thought) and put them back in my loop. I always run the loop first to ensure no leaks then attach the cards to the motherboard. After a day of leak testing I was horrified to find only one of the three cards was working. I have now tested each card individually and confirmed that only one is working, the system will not even boot with the other two!! Before I buy two more cards does anyone have any ideas or hints as to what I did wrong. BTW I have now ordered three EK Alu backplates from EK.
What thermal paste did you use on your GTX's?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyke
One of your cards works, so there must be something wrong to the installation on the others.
If there were mis-contact, it should still run 1-2 minutes from cool before the system shut down by itself (8800 does that, and GTX280 is not hotter than 8800 on idle). Have you noticed any burnt mark/smell? Suggest try back the stock fan block to see if they can still operate first.
I used OCZ Freeze.Quote:
Originally Posted by SimpleTECH
Hmm. I was thinking that maybe the TIM you used was conductive and maybe shorted your cards but the OCZ Freeze is non-conductive.
Edit1: Opps, I need to read.
Maybe something shorted them out. TBH, not sure exactly how or what is causing your cards to not power on. :confused:
Yes, but with such a high failure rate I am a bit concerned. Do I need to use the spacer on both sides of the block, I am assuming that only the copper side needs them? In any event the thread on the SLi connectors I used is so short that I could not fit a spacer even on the copper side of the block. What you say about at least getting a signal for a short while is true, that is why I am confused. I will try again when I get the backplates. Any other help/insights would be appreciated such as how tightly I should attach the blocks. My main concern when attaching the block is making sure that the smaller NVIO chip is getting good contact, as I know that this chip runs very hot.Quote:
Originally Posted by ppost
That's exactly why I never use AS. I am also careful to avoid static. I wish I knew what I had done!Quote:
Originally Posted by SimpleTECH
No smell at all, the stock case was junked!!Quote:
Originally Posted by ppost
The paper spacer obviously helps to increase the holding area and avoid damaging the screw holes/card for taking the block weight.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyke
Sorry, I don't quite understand what you meant by "the thread on the SLi connectors I used is so short that I could not fit a spacer even on the copper side of the block". Anyhow, it does not sound like to be the cause of card damage.
There are successors who run the card properly even without the back plate. I was also once reminded that the block is designed to leave specific gap distance between the block and the NVIO chip, for GTX280 should be 0.5mm, thats the same thickness of the thermal pad which comes with. It was 1mm thick gap/pad for 8800 instead. Block attachment shall never be too tight causing obvious bending.......Same, this should also not be the issue to cause your problem.....
Other than the card is already short-circulted anyhow, or other significant physical damage to any chips, my last guess will be an excessive TIM was applied on the core which the card was over bended to feed the screws.
Really should re-install the stock fan next and RMA them as first priority if needed and possible. Wish you luck.
There is a metal spacer, which is used to shorten the thread on the barbs. On the copper side of the block the threading is not as deep as on the other side, the spacer stops the thread on the barb intefering with the liquid flow (I assume!!) On some of the fittings I have the thread is very short and so a spacer is not needed, on the 1/2" barbs I use a spacer as the thread is longer on these. My block did not come with any paper spacers for the screws, should it have?Quote:
Originally Posted by ppost
Tyke, were you using Toughpower1200W for GTX280 tri sli when they were still with the stock fans? For how long?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyke
The PSU manual recommends same rail on one card, and tri sli GTX280 will leave you no choice to run the third card with one 6-pins on 12V3 rail and the 8-pins on 12V4 rail instead, which is not recommended. Could this be a problem that I'm really not sure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyke
Yes, the metal spacers are needed only if to replace with barbs of deeper treads. I never use them either.
oopps, unlike 8800 block, this GTX280 does not come with paper spacers. Sorry for adding confusion.
Any instructions or tips on connecting the blocks for the 280 in SLI? Do you just use a tube and clamps or is there some other fitting to make it easier?
That's a good point, it had occurred to me. However the Toughpower 1200W is one of the few units on the NVidia GTX 280 Tri-Sli approved list! I might try and track down a Turbo Cool 1200W, although they are ridiculously expensive.Quote:
Originally Posted by ppost
EDIT: I've just seen that the Toughpower 1500W runs all four cards on separate rails, so that may be an option.